Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park
Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park
Neighborhood Top Five
1 City Park Spending a lazy afternoon at this park, checking out art, outdoor sculptures, gardens and a toy train, then blissing out under an oak tree as the world spins by.
2 Bayou St John Lazing the day away by this man-made waterway that runs through the heart of the city, or heading out here with a kayak and a paddle.
3 Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden Wandering around the statuary and green landscaping.
4 Esplanade Avenue Marveling at one of the most gorgeous streets in the city, packed end to end with beautiful homes and mansions.
5 New Orleans Museum of Art Soaking up the arts at this elegant institution, filled with both regional and global art.
Explore Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park
A bike ride may be the most pleasant way to explore the ‘green’ sections of these neighborhoods. If you cycle independently, just roll up attractive Esplanade Ave and take it all the way to City Park, stopping at St Louis Cemetery No 3 along the way. Explore the park and the New Orleans Museum of Art, and afterwards stop in for dinner at Café Degas or 1000 Figs. In the evening, enjoy a drink at Pal’s or Twelve Mile Limit.
The next day, have lunch at Marjie’s, then drive around Bayou St John, enjoy the serenity and consider dinner at Parkway Tavern.
Starting from the southwest, near Banks St, Mid-City is a mix of commercial lots and residential blocks. Northeast is Bayou St John, ringed with historic houses, and the great green stretches of City Park. In the southeast, Esplanade Ave runs to the French Quarter, passing through the Tremé on the way.
Local Life
Food These leafy neighborhoods are chock full of unassuming restaurants serving fantastic comfort food. The low-key friendliness of these joints just adds to the allure.
Green spaces City Park is the obvious contender for top green space in New Orleans, but there’s also Bayou St John, Esplanade Ave and plenty of tree-lined streets.
Nightlife As with the food scene, there’s a ton of unexpected nightlife gems in this corner of town, from convivial bars to great music venues.
Getting There & Away
Streetcar The City Park spur of Canal St hits Carrollton St, then heads up that road all the way to City Park.
Bus The 91 runs up Esplanade Ave, turns into Mid-City and drops by City Park. The 27 follows Louisiana Ave and also hits the park. The 94 bus runs along Broad, cutting through both Mid-City and the Tremé.
Car Free street parking is plentiful throughout these neighborhoods.
Bike You can pedal up here via Esplanade Ave, which has a bicycle lane, or the Lafitte Greenway.
TOP SIGHT
CITY PARK
In many ways City Park is a near perfect expression of a local ‘park,’ in the sense that it is an only slightly tamed expression of the forest and Louisiana wetlands (Bayou Metairie runs through the grounds) that are the natural backdrop of the city. Golf courses mar this narrative, but there’s still enough wild to get lost in.
A Touch of History
City Park occupies the site of the former Allard Plantation; much of the infrastructure and improvements, including pathways, bridges and art deco flair, were built by the Works Progress Administration (WPA) during the Great Depression. The arboreal life is magnificent and includes strands of mature live oaks – thousands of them, some as old as 600 years – along with bald cypresses, Southern magnolias and other species. During Hurricane Katrina, nearby canals flooded and inundated more than 90% of the park in up to 8ft of salt water. Though the ground has recovered, many priceless trees were lost. One tree that wasn’t was the Singing Oak (or Singing Tree) (MAP GOOGLE MAP), which stands festooned with chimes, some up to 14ft in length. Standing under the tree during the slightest breeze is pretty magical.
Botanical Gardens & Peristyle
The Botanical Gardens have been the site of many a New Orleans wedding, and in their green depths you’ll find examples of flora from both around the world and across the backyard of Louisiana.
Overlooking Bayou Metairie like a Greek temple is the Peristyle (pictured), a classical pavilion featuring Ionic columns, built in 1907. Four concrete lions stand watch, while weddings, dances, recitals and curious tourists meander through.
DON’T MISS
ASydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden
ABotanical Gardens
ANew Orleans Museum of Art
Couturie Forest
The wildest section of the park is this scad of hardwood forest, where live oaks shade leafy underbrush and mushrooms peek out of the moist soil. Park your car in the lot off the Harrison Ave traffic circle and you’ll see a road that extends back into the forest; take any branching trail and get pleasantly lost.
New Orleans Museum of Art
Looking like a vague cross between Lenin’s tomb and a Greek temple, the New Orleans Museum of Art is one of the finest art museums in the South. There’s strong representation from regional and American artists, but the work of masters, such as Edgar Degas, who have passed through the city is also prominent.
Popp Fountain
The Popp Fountain is wonderful, and another impressive example from the WPA. Promenades planted with perennials and 26 Corinthian columns surround the centerpiece of water erupting from a bronze base of cavorting dolphins.
Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden
Three of George Rodrigue’s ‘Blue Dogs’ – in red, yellow and blue – await your arrival in the pleasant Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden, which sits beside the New Orleans Museum of Art. The garden opened in 2003 with pieces from the world-renowned Besthoff collection and today holds more than 60 pieces, dotted across 5 acres. Most are contemporary works by artists such as Antoine Bourdelle, Henry Moore and Louise Bourgeois.
Theme Parks
Anyone who doesn’t like the charmingly dated Carousel Gardens must surely have a heart of stone. The lovingly restored antique carousel is housed in a 1906 structure with a stained-glass cupola. You can board the tiny City Park Railroad here as well, plus a little Ferris wheel, bumper cars and a tilt-a-whirl.
Storyland doesn’t have rides, just fun statues of fairy-tale heroes and villains. If the characters seem strangely similar to Mardi Gras floats, it’s because they were created by master float-builder Blaine Kern. During the Christmas season it’s lit up like a Christmas tree and all very magical.
CELEBRATION IN THE OAKS
This City Park celebration (www.neworleanscitypark.com/celebration-in-the-oaks; adult/child under 3 $9/free; 
h6-10pm Mon-Thu, 6-11pm Fri, 5-11pm Sat, 5-10pm Sun late Nov & Dec; c) is New Orleans’ take on Christmas in America, with 2 miles of oak trees providing the lit-up superstructure. You can view it in its entirety from your car or in a horse-drawn carriage.
1Sights
Two of the main sights in this area are in the name of the neighborhood: Bayou St John and City Park. Both are lovely spots for just wandering around and soaking up greenery; City Park has the added advantage of being enormous and full of its own ‘sub’ sights. There’s a lot to be said for just wandering up and down Espalande Ave and Ursuline Ave, both of which are undeniably attractive. Beyond that, this area is one of the more residential, less touristy parts of the city.
City ParkPARK
See here.
oSydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture GardenGARDENS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.noma.org/sculpture-garden; 1 Collins Diboll Circle; h10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) 
F
The sculpture garden that sits just outside the New Orleans Museum of Art is a wooded quilt of streams, pathways, lovers’ benches and, of course, sculpture, mainly of the modern and contemporary sort. During spring and summer, theatrical productions are often put on here, but it’s a lovely spot for a stroll any time of year.
Bayou St JohnRIVER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Moss St & Wisner Ave; 
c
#)
Back in the day, this was a true bayou – an overgrown morass of Spanish moss and prowling alligators. Native Americans, fur trappers and smugglers would use the waterway as a natural road that led over the dark wetlands to the shores of Lake Pontchartrain. Today, the bayou has been partially dredged and beautified into a narrow green space that makes for a breezy, altogether pleasant green ribbon that snakes across the center of the city.
Don’t swim here – the bottom is shallow, has sharp rubble underfoot and there are still alligators here!
Esplanade AvenueSTREET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; btwn Rampart St & City Park)
Esplanade is one of the most beautiful streets in New Orleans, yet barely recognized by visitors as such. Because of the abundance of historical homes, Esplanade, which follows the ‘high ground’ of Esplanade Ridge, is known as the Creole St Charles Ave. Both streets are shaded by rows and rows of leafy live oaks, but whereas St Charles is full of large, plantation-style American villas, Esplanade is framed by columned, French Creole–style mansions.
New Orleans Museum of ArtMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; NOMA; 
%504-658-4100; www.noma.org; 1 Collins Diboll Circle; adult/child 7-17yr $12/6; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 9pm Fri, 10am-5pm Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
Inside City Park, this elegant museum was opened in 1911 and is well worth a visit for its special exhibitions, gorgeous marble atrium and top-floor galleries of African, Asian, Native American and Oceanic art. Its sculpture garden contains a cutting-edge collection in lush, meticulously planned grounds. Other specialties include Southern painters and an ever-expanding collection of modern and contemporary art.
Pitot HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-482-0312; www.pitothouse.org; 1440 Moss St; adult/child under 12yr & senior $10/7; h10am-3pm Wed-Sat)
The Pitot House, perched prettily beside Bayou St John, is an excellent example of classical French New Orleans architecture. Constructed circa 1799, it’s the only Creole Colonial house along the bayou that is open to the public. The shaded verandah served as a living area whenever the weather got too hot. The house is named for resident James Pitot, who served as first mayor of incorporated New Orleans and lived here from 1810 to 1819. Visitation is by guided tour.
PeristyleARCHITECTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://neworleanscitypark.com/rentals-and-catering/venues/peristyle; City Park; sunrise-sunset) F
This eye-catching pavilion in City Park, built in 1907, is marked by Ionic columns and flanked by four lions. It looks like it was summoned via some time machine from ancient Greece, but today it’s a great spot to sit with a sweetie and watch the sun set. The structure was originally built for private events and many weddings happen here.
Carousel Gardens Amusement ParkAMUSEMENT PARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-483-9402; www.neworleanscitypark.com/in-the-park/carousel-gardens; 7 Victory Ave, City Park; adult/child 36in & under $4/free, each ride $4; h11am-6pm Sat & Sun Mar-May & Aug-Oct, 11am-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Jun & Jul)
This little amusement park is anchored by a 1906 carousel that’s a gem of vintage carny-ride happiness. Other thrills include a Ferris wheel, bumper cars and a tilt-a-whirl. If you want to stay for awhile, buy an $18 pass for unlimited rides. The park is closed outside of the above seasonal hours, although it is open on evenings during Celebration in the Oaks (a festival of lights in late November and December).
Metairie CemeteryCEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-486-6331; 5100 Pontchartrain Blvd; h7:30am-5:30pm)
Established in 1872 on a former racetrack (the grounds, you’ll notice, still follow the oval layout), this is the most American of New Orleans’ cities of the dead. Highlights include the Brunswig mausoleum, a pyramid guarded by a sphinx statue; the Moriarty monument, reputedly the ‘tallest privately owned monument’ in the country; and the Estelle Theleman Hyams monument, its stained-glass fixture casting a somber blue light over a slumped, despondent angel. A car helps for exploring the 150-acre grounds.
St Louis Cemetery No 3CEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-596-3050; 3421 Esplanade Ave; h9am-3pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) F
This long but compact cemetery was established in 1854 at the site of the old Bayou Cemetery and is worth strolling through for a few minutes (longer if you’re a cemetery enthusiast). Of particular note is the striking monument James Gallier Jr designed for his mother and father who were lost at sea. It’s a few steps to the right just after you enter from Esplanade Ave. The cemetery’s wrought-iron entrance gate is a beauty.
Botanical GardensGARDENS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-483-9488; www.neworleanscitypark.com/botanical-garden; City Park; adult/child/under 3 $8/4/free; h10am-5pm; 
p)
Located within City Park, both local and international flora is exhibited here. You’ll also find stirring examples of WPA workmanship and art deco design in the form of pavilions and function halls such as the Pavilion of Two Sisters and Lath House. In the northwest corner, the Train Garden replicates the city in 1:22 scale miniature size, cut through with 1300ft of rail.
Fair Grounds Race CourseLANDMARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-944-5515; www.fairgroundsracecourse.com; 1751 Gentilly Blvd)
Laid out in 1852, this is the third-oldest racetrack in the nation. During the Civil War, you could catch bear fights here. Today, besides horse races, the Fair Grounds is the site of the annual Louisiana Derby (in March) and the Jazz Fest. Buried in the infield are derby winners from a past era. The racing season runs from late November through March and includes, along with the horses, ostrich, dachshund and guys-in-T-rex races,
StorylandAMUSEMENT PARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://neworleanscitypark.com/in-the-park/storyland; 5 Victory Ave, City Park; adult/child 36in & under $4/free; h10am-5pm; c)
There are no rides at Storyland, located next to Carousel Gardens, but the fairy-tale statuary provides plenty of fuel for young imaginations. Children can play with – and climb upon – the Jabberwocky from Alice in Wonderland or enter the mouth of the whale from Pinocchio.
Alcee Fortier ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 3100 Esplanade Ave; h24hr; c#) F
This pretty park, strung up with lights and lanterns and decked out with funky furniture, sits across the road from one of the most attractive stretches of Esplanade Ave, an area replete with restaurants, shops and a general breezy ambience. Movies are sometimes screened here on evenings, especially for kids.
A good spot for a picnic, but you should know there are occasionally homeless people around as well.
Our Lady of the Rosary RectoryHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-488-2659; 1342 Moss St; hMass 7am Mon-Fri, 4pm Sat, 9am, 11am & 6pm Sun)
Built around 1834 as the home of Evariste Blanc, Our Lady of the Rosary Rectory exhibits a combination of styles characteristic of the region. The high-hipped roof and wraparound gallery seem reminiscent of West Indies houses but were actually the preferred styles of French Canadians who originally settled Bayou St John. However, it’s the house’s neoclassical details that make it obvious that this building is from a later period.
During Jazz Fest, Mass is held at 7:30am and 9am on Sundays.
SanctuaryHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 924 Moss St)
This historic house was built by Evariste Blanc from 1816 to 1822 on land originally granted in 1720 to French Canadians. The once-swampy property was later transferred to Don Andrés Almonaster y Roxas, the real-estate speculator who commissioned St Louis Cathedral on Jackson Sq in the French Quarter. It’s a private residence today.
NEW ORLEANS: BORN ON THE BAYOU
Today, Bayou St John is a pleasant backdrop for a stroll or a short paddle in a kayak. But take a closer look. This sometimes smelly creek is the reason this city exists. It was originally used by Native Americans as a wet highway to the relatively high ground of Esplanade Ridge before French explorers realized the waterway was the shortest route between the Mississippi River – and by extent the Gulf of Mexico – and Lake Pontchartrain. It was essentially for this reason that New Orleans was built in its commanding position at the mouth of the Mississippi. Eventually a canal built by Governor Carondelet extended the bayou to the edge of the French Quarter, and the bayou acted as the city’s chief commercial harbor. Life in the area thrived; beautiful houses lined the bayou (many remain here today) and voodoo queen Marie Laveau and followers supposedly conducted rituals on the waterfront.
The era of steamboats made direct navigation up and down the Mississippi easier, and the bayou began to be eclipsed. Navigation ended with the filling of the canal in 1927, but the bayou remained an important geographic point of reference. Since 2005 it has also become a bone of contention between local residents and the Army Corps of Engineers. The Corps insists St John is a potential source of floodwater and have proposed sealing it off from Pontchartrain. Some residents say opening sector gates on the bayou’s pump houses could facilitate the natural flow of water, which would freshen up the bayou (which can grow darkly stagnant), improve water quality and reintroduce important flora and fauna to the bayou bank.
The issue is still being fought. In the meantime, come out here to stroll along the bayou (stagnant or not, it is scenic and supremely serene, especially at sunset), enjoy a po’boy from the Parkway Tavern, catch one of the many concerts played on the median that runs through the bayou and gape at the gorgeous residences. You are able to visit Pitot House, a restored mansion with a lovely set of gardens in the back.
5Eating
There are loads of neighborhood restaurants out this way that serve excellent New Orleans cuisine (and increasingly, food from further afield). Local restaurants charge local prices; you can eat a lot cheaper here than in the Quarter or CBD.
oLiuzza’s By The TrackDINER$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-218-7888; www.liuzzasnola.com; 1518 N Lopez St; mains $7-16; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Mmmm, that gumbo. This quintessential Mid-City neighborhood joint does some of the best in town. The barbecue shrimp po’boy is to die for and the deep-fried garlic oysters are legendary. The atmosphere is unforgettable: we’ve seen a former city judge and a stripper dining together here, which is as ‘Only in New Orleans’ an experience as you can get.
Liuzza’s is nearly impossible to squeeze into during Jazz Fest, which is held at the nearby Fair Grounds Race Course.
oParkway TavernSANDWICHES$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-482-3047; www.parkwaypoorboys.com; 538 Hagan Ave; po’boys $8-14; h11am-10pm Wed-Mon; pc)
Who makes the best po’boy in New Orleans? Honestly, who can say? But tell a local you think the top sandwich comes from Parkway and you will get, at the least, a nod of respect. The roast beef in particular – a craft some would say is dying among the great po’boy makers – is messy as hell and twice as good.
Take one down to nearby Bayou St John, and munch that sandwich in the shade. Louisiana bliss. The homemade bread pudding with rum sauce is also divine – and secretly our top choice at Parkway.
NameseVIETNAMESE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-483-8899; www.namese.net; 4077 Tulane Ave; mains $7-18; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat; p
vc)
Angelo BrocatoICE CREAM$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-486-0079; www.angelobrocatoicecream.com; 214 N Carrollton Ave; scoop of gelato $3.25, pastries under $4; h10am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 10:30pm Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)
When an ice-cream parlor passes the 100-year mark, you gotta step back and say, ‘Clearly, they’re doing something right.’ Opened in 1905 by Signor Brocato himself, a Sicilian immigrant who scraped together his savings from working on a sugar plantation, this is the oldest ice-cream shop in New Orleans. Inside, silky gelatos, perfect cannoli and crispy biscotti wow the tastebuds.
Biscuits & Buns on BanksBREAKFAST$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-273-4600; www.biscuitsandbunsonbanks.com; 4337 Banks St; mains $9-12; vc)
Need some carbs in your life? Have them with a side of delicious at Biscuits & Buns. The fluffy breads come slathered with gravy and topped with fried chicken or apples, walnuts and grilled goat cheese. Kids come here a lot, and while there isn’t a dedicated children’s menu, little ones are well looked after.
Ideal MarketSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-822-8861; http://laidealmarket.com; 250 S Broad St; hot plates $5-10; h6am-9pm; p)
The Ideal Market chain is the largest grocery purveyor serving the Louisiana Latino community. Ideal is filled with imported items that may be hard to find elsewhere and has a hot-plate bar where you can easily feed yourself, and likely a friend, for under $10. Rotating specials include slow-cooked pork, yellow rice, plantains, stewed chicken and other goodies.
Nonna Mia Café & PizzeriaITALIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-948-1717; www.nonnamia.net; 3125 Esplanade Ave; pizza $12-20, mains $10-16; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; v)
Getting tired of heavy, rich Creole cuisine? How about a fresh slice of pizza and some ice tea in Nonna Mia’s outdoor courtyard? The caramelized onions, goat cheese and artichoke hearts are proof pizza doesn’t need pepperoni to be perfect.
Canseco’sSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-322-2594; www.cansecos.com; 3135 Esplanade Ave; hot plates $7-10; h7am-10pm)
If you’re self-catering or just need some picnic food before Jazz Fest, head to this little grocery store – their hot plates (fried chicken, pasta and other comfort-food fare) are delicious and cheap.
Morning CallBREAKFAST$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://neworleanscitypark.com/in-the-park/morning-call; Dreyfous Ave, City Park; mains $2-10; h24hr)
Just a few steps from the Besthoff Sculpture Garden, Morning Call serves coffee, gumbo and very good beignets (arguably better than another famous beignet spot that begins with a ‘C’ and ends with ‘afé du Monde’) around the clock. Cash only.
Ruby SlipperBREAKFAST$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-525-9355; www.therubyslippercafe.net; 315 S Broad St; mains $9-20; h7am-2pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; v)
The Slipper has become a small local chain and serves basic American breakfast food prepared with a touch of gourmet flair: the hollandaise has a kick, the French toast is stuffed, yummy and gooey, and a poached egg tops the crispy chicken biscuit. That said, it’s not as great as its popularity may imply.
oMarjie’s GrillASIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-603-2234; www.marjiesgrill.com; 320 S Broad St; mains $8-26; h11am-2:30pm & 5:30-10pm Mon-Fri, 4-10pm Sat)
In one word: brilliant. Marjie’s is run by chefs who were inspired by Southeast Asian street food, but rather than coming home and doing pale imitations of the real thing, they’ve turned an old house on Broad St into a corner in Hanoi, Luang Prabang or Chiang Mai. With that said, there’s a hint of New Orleans at work.
Coal-roasted fish has a flaky, wonderfully charred skin, while cornmeal-battered chicken goes down a treat with sambal and cane syrup. The simple pork steak is a godsend: sliced, wonderfully cooked and served with a small mountain of fresh herbs.
o1000 FigsMIDDLE EASTERN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-301-0848; www.1000figs.com; 3141 Ponce de Leon St; small plates $5-16; h11am-9pm Tue-Sat; v)
Although the menu isn’t exclusively vegetarian, 1000 Figs serves our favorite vegetarian fare in town. The falafel, hummus, baba ghanouj and lentil soup are just good – freshly prepared and expertly executed. The dining space is well lit and seating makes you feel as if you’re eating in a best friend’s stylish dining room.
A full sampler platter of more or less everything on the menu is $32.
Toups’ MeateryLOUISIANAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-252-4999; www.toupsmeatery.com; 845 N Carrollton Ave; lunch $14-22, small plates $11-17, mains $22-34; h11am-2:30pm Tue-Sat, 5-10pm Tue-Thu, 5-11pm Fri & Sat)
Cheese plates. Charcuterie boards. These are standard appetizers at restaurants across the land. But they are nothing compared to the chest-pounding glory that is the Toup’s Meatery Board, a Viking-worthy platter of MEAT. Housemade and cured, this carnivore’s feast will harden your arteries in a single glance. But oh, that butter-soft marrow on the bone.
At this Mid-City hot spot, which looks like a hunting lodge dressed up nice, meat includes beef, pork, goat, quail, lamb, chicken and seafood, with boudin (Cajun sausage) balls, cracklin’ and hog’s head cheese available as sides. New Orleans beers are on tap and Pimms cups are available by the pitcher.
Café DegasFRENCH$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-945-5635; www.cafedegas.com; 3127 Esplanade Ave; lunch $8-18, dinner $14-31; h11am-3pm Wed-Fri, from 10:30am Sat & Sun, 5:30-10pm Wed-Sat, to 9.30pm Sun)
A pecan tree thrusts through the floor and ceiling of the enclosed deck that serves as Café Degas’ congenial dining room. A rustic, romantic little spot, Degas warms the heart with first-rate French fare. Meals that sound familiar on the menu – steak frites au poivre, parmesan-crusted veal medallions – are arranged with extraordinary beauty on the plate.
Brunch is gorgeous; the crab crepe with hollandaise is decadent.
Bevi Seafood Co.SEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-488-7503; http://beviseafoodco.com; 236 Carrollton Ave; mains $8-20; h11am-8pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun & Mon)
Inside, Bevi’s has less atmosphere than the moon, but if you don’t mind the bare walls and cafeteria seating, there’s excellent local seafood to be had, from boiled crawfish to head-on barbecue shrimp to a po’boy with fried oysters, melted Gouda cheese and bacon (!).
Brown ButterSOUTHERN US$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-609-3871; www.brownbutterrestaurant.com; 231 N Carrollton Ave; mains $12-19; h11am-3pm Tue-Fri, 5:30-10pm Tue-Sat, 10:30am-3pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; p)
Contemporary Southern food has been a culinary trend in New Orleans for decades, but Brown Butter executes the genre with midrange prices and menu items that are high-end quality. For lunch, grab an oyster sandwich or a boudin banh mi; come dinner, oak-smoked brisket and chili-lathered chicken make an appearance.
Lola’sSPANISH$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-488-6946; www.lolasneworleans.com; 3312 Esplanade Ave; mains $13-34; h5:30-9:30pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Enjoy wine and conversation with crowds of Mid-City locals who swear by Lola’s paellas and fideuàs (an angel-hair pasta variation on the former). Inside, it’s all elbows and the buzz of conversation and good grub. This isn’t haute Barcelona cuisine; it’s the Spanish peasant fare Hemingway wrote chapters about: rabbit, meats, fresh seafood, olive oil and lots of delicious garlic.
Katie’sCREOLE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-488-6582; www.katiesinmidcity.com; 3701 Iberville St; mains $11-24; h11am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 9am-3pm Sun; c)
Katie’s is how New Orleans does a family restaurant. Everything is taken over the top to new levels of decadent enjoyment; onion rings swim in remoulade sauce, fries are tossed with garlic butter and blue cheese, and the oysters Slessinger, doused in cheese, shrimp and bacon…oh wow. Portions are enormous.
Neyow’sCREOLE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-827-5474; www.neyows.com; 3332 Bienville St; mains $8.75-19; h11am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Neyow’s is a New Orleans standby, the sort of spot that churns out relatable, reliable blue-chip dishes like breaded pork chops, smothered chicken, and grilled catfish stuffed with lump crab meat. It’s enormously popular, so be prepared to wait for a table (no reservations).
MoPhoVIETNAMESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-482-6845; www.mophonola.com; 514 City Park Ave; lunch $7-18, dinner $8-23; h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; pv)
At this innovative kitchen, traditional Vietnamese dishes often come with a Louisiana kick, from Gulf shrimp spring rolls to banh mi–style po’boys. We give props for the stylish digs, attentive service and the great name. The pho? Solid, not swoon-inducing. We’re bigger fans of the super rich, slow-roasted lamb curry.
Mandina’sITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-482-9179; www.mandinasrestaurant.com; 3800 Canal St; mains $12-23; h11am-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, noon-9pm Sun)
In the Italian American New Orleans community, funerals were followed by a visit to Mandina’s for turtle soup. The menu may be conservative, but when you’ve been around for more than 100 years you stick to what you know. In this case that’s Sicilian Louisiana food: trout almandine, red beans and veal cutlets, and bell peppers stuffed with macaroni and meat.
The dining room is as historic as any building in the city and just as crucial to its culture.
Crescent City SteaksSTEAK$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-821-3271; http://crescentcitysteaks.com; 1001 N Broad St; steaks $26-31; h11:30am-9:30pm Tue-Thu, to 10pm Fri, 4-10pm Sat, noon-9pm Sun)
Is this the best steak in the city? No. But the venue is older than old school; there are little private booths where you can have mafia-style dinners without having to look at the common folk. Plus the steak, which comes out sizzling in butter with potatoes Lyonnaise (sliced and fried with shallots), is still pretty great.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are some decent bars out this way, but they tend to be neighborhood places that out-of-towners may not consider worth the hike. But there are a few key exceptions. In general the scene here is lively, local and happy to share a beer and a story with a stranger.
oTwelve Mile LimitBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-488-8114; www.facebook.com/twelve.mile.limit; 500 S Telemachus St; h5pm-2am Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 10am-midnight Sun)
Twelve Mile is simply a great bar. It’s staffed by people who have the skill, both behind the bar and in the kitchen, to work in four-star spots, but who chose to set up shop in a neighborhood, for a neighborhood. The mixed drinks are excellent, the match of any mixologist’s cocktail in Manhattan, and the vibe is super accepting.
oPal’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-488-7257; www.palslounge.com; 949 N Rendon St; h3pm-late)
This great neighborhood bar is a little more convivial for the older generation, although it’s definitely an all-ages crowd. The men’s bathroom, wallpapered with vintage pinups, is like a walk through Playboy’s history, while the backroom air hockey is always enjoyable. Open until at least 3am Sunday through Thursday and at least 4am on Friday and Saturday.
You might not expect great cocktails at this little dive, but mixed drinks like the gingerita could hold their own in any fancy Manhattan or London mixology joint.
StationCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-309-4548; www.thestation.coffee; 4400 Bienville St; h6:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7:30am-5pm Sat & Sun)
There are plenty of cafes in Mid-City, but Station is a significant caffeinated cut above the rest. The coffee is simply thoughtfully curated and brewed well; there’s no need for crazy espresso concoctions here. Try the Vietnamese cafe sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk) – it’s a treat on a hot day.
TreoCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-304-4878; www.treonola.com; 3835 Tulane Ave; h4pm-midnight)
My Whole Life Is Thunder. Shochu Wanna Party. The Rubio. Treo knows how to name a cocktail – and, more importantly, how to mix one. Tipplers have a choice of seasonal drinks and Louisiana-style small plates. For a touch of culture, check out the art gallery upstairs. And that cool art piece on the ceiling? A wooden map of New Orleans.
Second Line BrewingBREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-248-8979; www.secondlinebrewing.com; 433 N Bernadotte St; h4-10pm Wed-Fri, noon-10pm Sat, to 8pm Sun; c)
Located at the end of some old railroad tracks, Second Line has turned a light industrial warehouse into a kicking brewery with a courtyard and kid-friendly play accoutrements. The frequent presence of food trucks makes this outdoor suds spot a popular place with families and those seeking beer and bites al fresco.
Finn McCool’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-486-9080; www.finnmccools.com; 3701 Banks St; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri-Sun)
Want a surreal New Orleans experience? Arrive at 6am when premier league soccer or big international rugby games are playing. You’ll see a mix of European sports enthusiasts, British expats and Hispanic locals packed into this bar. Finn’s is an excellent spot for a beer any time (especially on St Paddy’s Day), but we particularly love it for watching soccer.
Check the website or call for game days and hours.
Mid-City Yacht ClubBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-483-2517; www.midcityyachtclub.com; 440 S St Patrick St; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri, 10:30am-4am Sat & Sun)
The Yacht Club is so much a part of the neighborhood that one of the owners took his boat out to save flooded Katrina victims (hence the name of the bar, which isn’t near a lake or ocean). More than this, it is literally a part of the neighborhood: the bar is made from wood salvaged from storm debris.
The vibe is somewhere between a neighborhood watering hole and a sports bar. During big games (especially Saints football), folks pack in for game-day specials; at other times, you’re rubbing elbows with and buying rounds for locals.
Fair GrindsCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-913-9072; 3133 Ponce de Leon St; h6:30am-9pm; 
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Like many of the best indie coffee shops, Fair Grinds is comfy, hip and unpretentious. And, of course, it serves a good cup of joe. It also showcases local art and generally acts as the beating heart of Mid-City’s bohemian scene; plus, it supports community development associations and hosts regular folk-music nights.
Bayou Beer GardenBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-302-9357; www.bayoubeergarden.com; 326 N Jefferson Davis Pkwy; h11am-2am)
The Bayou has been sorely needed in New Orleans: a beer bar with an enormous outdoor deck that serves pub grub. Shows lots of sports and thus attracts an interesting mix of jocks and punky locals on game days.
Bayou Wine GardenWINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-826-2925; http://bayouwinegarden.com; 315 N Rendon St; h11am-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri-Sun)
Literally across the street from the back courtyard of Bayou Beer Garden, and managed by the same team, the wine garden is just that: a courtyard bar with dozens of wines available via either bottle or on tap. The interior of this spot is more brick and hardwood classy than the sporty beer garden.
SidebarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-324-3838; www.sidebarnola.com; 611 S White St; h2pm-2am Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun)
This is a classy little spot, the sort of bar that feels like a warm drinking den in your tasteful friend’s home more than anything else. For all its looks, though, Sidebar is very casual – a spot to watch a game and that seems to draw in workers from the nearby courthouse and medical centers.
Pearl Wine CoWINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-483-6314; www.pearlwineco.com; 3700 Orleans Ave; h4pm-midnight Wed-Sat)
On the 1st floor of the American Can Building apartment complex, this wine shop and lounge is an inviting place to relax and sip wine after a morning exploring City Park or strolling Bayou St John. Hosts frequent free wine tastings.
3Entertainment
Chickie Wah WahLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %844-244-2543; www.chickiewahwah.com; 2828 Canal St; cover $5-10; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 7pm-midnight Sat & Sun)
Despite the fact it lies in Mid-City on one of the most unremarkable stretches of Canal St, Chickie Wah Wah is a great music venue. Local legends, such as Sunpie Barnes and Alex McMurry, and plenty of international talent, all make their way across the small stage.
Banks Street BarLIVE MUSIC
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-486-0258; www.banksstreetbarandgrill.com; 4401 Banks St; h11am-2am)
While Banks Street Bar is a quintessential neighborhood dive, it’s also renowned as a good place to catch local music seven nights a week. It’s famous for its good rock shows, but it also hosts jazz, funk, brass and the rest, and doesn’t charge a cover.
It gets loud in here, so don’t plan on discussing representation and repression in the latter works of Terrence Malick between sets.
7 Shopping
Thanks to its historical infrastructure and architecture, New Orleans tends to lack the sprawling strip-mall development you find in so many other American cities. But you’ll find exceptions to this rule around N Carrollton Ave and Bienville St. There are also a few cool boutiques and smaller shops strung out along Carrollton Ave and Broad St.
oTubby & CoosBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-598-5536; www.tubbyandcoos.com; 631 N Carrollton Ave; 10am-7pm Thu-Tue; W)
Haven’t found the droids you were looking for? Then stop by this self-proclaimed ‘geeky’ bookstore where books and movies loved by nerds take the spotlight. Game of Thrones, Dr Who, Star Wars – the gang is all here. They have a great kids section upstairs and rent out an enormous selection of board games.
oF&F Botanica Spiritual SupplyGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-482-9142; www.orleanscandleco.com; 801 N Broad Ave; h8am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu-Sat)
Hesitant to enter a ‘voodoo store’? Don’t worry, staff couldn’t be more helpful at this jam-packed shop that’s lined with colorful candles. Forget all the fake voodoo shops in the French Quarter, this is a genuine Puerto Rican botanica that sells issue-related candles (success, love, etc), gris-gris (spell bags or amulets) and spell components.
No tourist-oriented, Hollywood-style dolls here; real worshippers drop in to deal with real issues, which, according to the spell lists, seem to be mainly related to heartache, immigration and the law. We guarantee you’ll walk away with one of their candles, which are used in voodoo and Santería (the latter is a Puerto Rican religion related to voodoo).
Home MaloneGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-324-8352; https://homemalonenola.com; 629 N Carrollton Ave; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun)
You won’t find Macaulay Culkin or improvised booby traps here, but this lovely shop is packed with bath bombs, New Orleans-ish home decor and local original art. A perfect shop for a South Louisiana souvenir.
Massey’sSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-648-0292; www.masseysoutfitters.com; 509 N Carrollton Ave; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun)
Massey’s is a large, well-stocked local chain carrying an excellent selection of camping, hiking and general outdoors gear.
2 Sports & Activities
KayakitiyatKAYAKING
(%985-778-5034, 512-964-9499; http://kayakitiyat.com; tours per person $45-105)
Kayakitiyat leads tours on the Bayou seven days a week. The best is the Pontchartrain Paddle ($65), a four-hour tour that traverses the length of the Bayou.
City PuttGOLF
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-483-9385; http://neworleanscitypark.com/in-the-park/city-putt; City Park; adult/child 4-12yr $8/6; h10am-10pm Sun & Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
Home to two separate courses, the New Orleans Course and the Louisiana Course, this 36-hole putt-putt is the only minigolf attraction in the city. Open year-round.
Nola GondolaBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-450-4400; www.nolagondola.com; 8 Friedrichs Ave; per couple $90; htours 1-7pm Wed-Sun)
Look into getting poled around with that special someone on a gondola in City Park with Nola Gondola. Your 50-minute ride comes with crackers, cheese and croony Italian music. The company will provide champagne or wine glasses, but bring your own bubbly or vino.
Wheel Fun RentalsBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %504-300-1289; Big Lake Trail, City Park; boats per hr from $26; h10am-sunset Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun)
Grab paddleboats for pottering around Big Lake, which anchors at the far southeast corner of City Park. It also rents bicycles and Surreys (pedal-powered carriages).