is for Sorrel Soup–
a tasty way to chill out

This recipe features herbs and veggies that are known for their cooling flavors. While delicious on its own, try serving this soup with grilled fish or shrimp along with a nice French loaf to dab up all the goodness.

Related to rhubarb and buckwheat (see “K is for Kasha,” page 182), and to the wild salad green called sheep sorrel (see “W is for Weeds in the Salad Bowl,” page 291), garden sorrel is a prolific hardy perennial with large, succulent arrow-shaped leaves and a tart flavor that is traditionally one of the early greens of summer. If you keep it well watered and shaded during the heat of the day, there will still be some growing when your cukes start producing. Garden sorrel (Rumex acetosa) and its close cousin French sorrel (R. scutatus) can be used interchangeably; they are commonly confused—except by the French, who apparently like their lemony-tart leaves less vigorous.

Salad burnet is a lovely, delicate-looking perennial that grows in bunching mounds; it makes an interesting landscape feature. While I do use it in early spring salads, the leaves are a bit tough, so it is put to good use in a dish such as this, where it will be blended into the soup, adding its own somewhat cucumber-y flavor. If you give this pretty plant a crew-cut every now and then, the leaves will stay more on the tender side.

The same with the borage leaf—it too is reminiscent of cucumbers, so it just has to be included, but the leaves are kind of bristly, so I usually roll it up and slice it super-fine when using it raw. Its edible blue flowers are a splendid garnish.

Sorrel Soup

1 tablespoon butter

3 scallions, thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, minced

1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded, and chopped

4 cups chicken broth

1 bunch sorrel, well washed and torn into pieces
(a bunch is how much your hand fits around)

1 borage leaf, chopped

13 sprigs salad burnet, leaves stripped from the stem

½–¾ cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper

Borage flowers or snipped chives for garnish (or both)

Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat, and add scallions to soften; then add the garlic, but do not let it brown. Next, add the cucumber and chicken broth. Bring to a boil, toss in the sorrel, borage, and salad burnet, and turn down the heat to a bare simmer. Cook until the cucumber has softened, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat.

Let the mixture cool a bit, and then place all the ingredients into a food processor or blender and whir until smooth; you may have to do this in two batches. There will still be little green flecks in the mixture; if this bothers you, then strain the soup. Stir in the cream (adjusting the amount to the texture you prefer) and mix well. Add salt and pepper to taste. Chill thoroughly, and garnish at serving time.