t’s late October, and I just spent the last few days reorganizing my pantry. There are seven shelves (including the floor), each about nine feet long, and it was looking like a fire sale before a hurricane. With the tomato windfall from the garden this year, there’s a whole shelf with just tomato products. It’s a food bank almost, and there’s something in me that thinks food is more valuable than money. I highly recommend keeping as well-stocked a pantry as your finances will allow; buy organic if you can. It should be obvious that I like to cook and putter in the kitchen, and while my philosophy is to choose local ingredients first, there’s no harm in exploring your culinary fantasies either. What follows are some things I have realized about food over the years, and I share this with you in the spirit of fun and what works for me.
Spice It Up
With the variety of herbs and spices alone—which are available locally, at farmer’s markets, or through mail order—you can turn an ordinary pan of noodles into a culinary romp across the continents. So there’s a good place to start your pantry—the herb and spice cabinet. Get a small amount of all the kinds you can find. I urge you to check out recipe books from the library or search the Internet for regional, international, and ethnic cuisine—whatever suits your fancy. If you’re like me, you’ll have a blast getting a taste for the flavors and nuances of a culture, learning the geography and the history, even trying to learn a few words in the appropriate language. A gentle reminder here: use a light hand with any new flavors you initially experiment with. I speak from experience as one who tried to invent a quasi-African stew with yams and peanuts and—let’s not go there just now!
About Oil
I use extra-virgin olive oil for all sorts of cooking. I know most chez’s recommend pure olive oil for the softer flavor, but this is what I prefer—and you should do what you prefer. I also use sunflower oil for its mild, unimposing flavor. I use plain, untoasted sesame oil in some of the Asian-inspired dishes I prepare, especially fried rice. For salads I use EVOO or occasionally hazelnut oil—yummy! I sometimes use a fantastically corny-tasting unrefined corn oil when fixing corn bread. Buy quality over quantity—most oils do not keep for long. I don’t use margarine at all; I fry my eggs in butter, thank you, and also spread it on the toast. I have never used ghee—clarified butter used in East Indian cooking—but I understand that it stores well. For baking, I use butter or oil, and in pastry crust, I use butter. All right, I know that butter is saturated fat, but at least it’s real, and we’re talking pastry, not stir fry. Just don’t eat it all the time. I personally cannot abide by hydrogenated vegetable shortening.
Vinegar, or What Do You Call
a Cat Who Drinks Lemonade?
I keep white wine vinegar in my pantry; it’s used for salad dressings on occasion, but I use it most often for canning pickled vegetables such as asparagus and green beans. I also keep apple cider vinegar (for therapeutic and cosmetic use also), balsamic vinegar, and fruit- and herb-flavored vinegars in stock. I seldom use plain white vinegar except for washing or cleaning something. See page 277, “V is for Vinegar,” for information on how to make these flavored vinegars.
Relish the Idea
As for commercially bottled sauces and condiments, there’s a wide world of them out there, and these are what I like to keep around: natural soy sauce (did you know there are brands that don’t actually have any “soy sauce” in them? Read the label!); oyster sauce and fish sauce (and yes, there actually is oyster and fish in these); health food store mayo; grainy and Dijon mustard; wasabi powder; Worcestershire sauce and Tabasco sauce; pimientos, anchovies, capers, and olives; ketchup and sweet relish; and so on. I recently discovered brined green peppercorns—whoa! Also included in this list could be nut butters and jams and pickles and such.
About Salt
It seems most people prefer sea salt, although I do wonder about the purity of the sea these days. There are several specialty salts available, but as a table salt, the one I prefer is totally unrefined, speckled from other minerals, and unfortunately very expensive. I use plain, non-iodized sea salt for canning. Kosher salt is wonderful sprinkled on salads and baked goods for both the pureness of flavor and its wonderful texture; I recommend Diamond Crystal brand because there are no additives. If you cannot tolerate salt, I suggest you learn how to use herbs and spices to flavor your food, although salt definitely brings out all the other flavors. Canning vegetables without salt is a mistake, in my opinion; they taste hideously flat.
Sweetie Pie
I rarely use white sugar; to me, it’s akin to “the cocaine of sugarcane.” However, compared to high-fructose corn syrup (a genetically modified substance), sugar (sucrose that is) seems the lesser of the evils. However, just like politics, evil is still evil, and I know I’m not kidding myself when I use organic dried cane juice; sugar by any other name is still sugar, even if it’s groovy sugar. Once consumed, honey is assimilated in the body just like sugar, even though you use less; molasses is sugar “tar,” but it sure makes a good Q sauce (see page 237); and don’t even talk to me about fructose (another white crystalline substance)—I’ll get mine straight from the fruit, thank you very much. Date sugar (which is ground, dried dates, a complex carbohydrate compared to plain sugar) is wonderful in desserts such as apple crisp. Malted barley or rice syrup is tasty, even if the flavor may not be what you expect from “sweet.” Maple syrup adds a rich, deep flavor to carob brownies. Sorghum syrup makes awesome caramel corn. Here’s a tasty way to use honey: gently melt it to make fruit-, herb- or spice-infused syrups (see page 3, the Kitchen Apothecary section, for how-to). It’s difficult to resist real pastry from the local bakery (at least it is for me), so my advice on sweets is Excess in Moderation. Learn to satisfy your sweet tooth with less, and taste the real food. When I use a dessert recipe from a “conventional” cookbook, I almost always reduce the amount of sugar called for by at least a third.
The Baker’s Dozen
For most baking, the basics are all you really need: baking powder and baking soda; cream of tartar; dry baking yeast; cocoa and carob powder; chocolate and carob chips; extracts and flavorings such as vanilla, almond, and lemon; instant tapioca for thickening fruit pies. I use whole wheat pastry flour for most dessert baking, and unbleached flour and hard red whole wheat flour for breads. Buy variety flours, such as rye, millet, or barley, in small quantities to insure freshness. Keep them in a cool, dry place, preferably in glass jars.
Beans and Grains
Dried beans and whole grains, once prepared, are as fancy or as plain as you like, but all are delicious and nutritious. Stored in glass jars or canisters on your pantry shelf or even on your countertop, they are a kaleidoscope of variety. If you buy them in large quantities, remember that they do not keep much longer than a year or two at most; otherwise the beans will get drier—if you can imagine—and be hard to reconstitute completely, and with too long of storage, some grains will go rancid. Most beans and legumes need to be soaked several hours before cooking. Most whole grains take at least half an hour to cook. Consider the convenience of rolled whole grains such as oats, barley, corn, and rye. Rolled oats are usually a given in most pantries, but the others are a nice addition to baked goods. I sometimes like to add rolled rye to pizza dough, and rolled barley is a hearty change from cooked oatmeal.
There are quite a few good books dealing specifically with grain and bean cookery, in all their glory. If you are vegetarian, you must educate yourself about these foods, which are literally the backbone of your diet; the combination of beans and grains make a complete protein that they by themselves do not. Tofu may be a decent low-fat protein source, but it is a processed food, while beans and grains are whole foods. I find the history of these foods fascinating, as they are the agricultural and cultural building blocks of most civilizations. Who would have imagined a sweet bean paste for desserts, or buckwheat and onion stuffed inside a dumpling skin? The endless variety of grain-bean dishes deserves more than a cursory exploration. I can only hope that the genetic experimentation on these basic crops won’t mess things up beyond recognition.
My Friends Are Nutty … and Seedy
And I love them for it! What a fascinating variety they are, too. Nuts and seeds are a good source of protein and healthy fat, as long as they are fresh. Keep small quantities of nuts in a cool place, perhaps your refrigerator. Almonds, soaked overnight in plenty of water and then drained, are a crunchy, plump surprise. I use sunflower seeds in everything from granola to quesadillas. I’m still waiting for my hazelnut bushes to produce, so until then, I buy them in the fall and enjoy them in shortbread, pilaf, and risotto. Pistachios are great—do you remember the red-dyed variety when you were a kid, when you could easily tell who snacked on what the night before?
Yes, We Can
As far as canned foods go, my choices are simple: whole green chilies, and lots of ’em. Oh yeah, and baby corn. I also live on a Mexican-style hot tomato sauce in a yellow can with a duck on it (El Pato Salsa de Chili Fresco)—it’s hot, it’s addictive, and in our house, it’s purchased by the case. No, it’s not organic, but nothing else comes close in taste, except for last year’s home-canned golden cha-cha sauce (which was actually better), but we go through the homemade stuff pretty fast. I also keep in stock canned beans like kidney and pinto and cannellini, and fruits like pineapple. I buy apple juice by the case for making smoothies if I don’t have any preserved. I love to do my own canning of garden fruits and veggies, but I realize this isn’t for everyone.
Use Your Noodle
The infinite variety of dried Italian-type pastas and Asian noodles ought to keep you eating for weeks. Some fresh types can be frozen, such as wonton and Chinese wheat noodles. I won’t instruct you here as to what noodle goes with what sauce or seasoning; just study your choice of cuisine and let your imagination fly. Your only mistake will be not trying.
Brrr-r-r-r!
One item I always keep in my freezer (besides meat) is chicken and buffalo broth, in pints and quarts. (The yearly buffalo run is a whole story unto itself.) I try to freeze up broccoli and spinach from my garden too, if I’ve planned ahead and can keep the deer out. And now that the blueberry bushes have really kicked in, we freeze some of these, along with raspberries, for pies and smoothies. If you can’t grow your own, find your local farmer’s market, get to know the vendors, and see if you can buy in quantity. Berries are very easy to freeze: carefully tumble the berries onto a waxed paper–lined baking sheet in a single layer, and place in the freezer (I do not recommend washing berries first unless they are very dusty); a few hours later, place the frozen berries into a freezer bag or container. Better toss a couple in your mouth while you’re at it—kids of all ages love frozen berry pops! If it’s veggies you want to freeze, they’ll have to be blanched first. Get a chart and instruction booklet from your County Extension office as to the timing and so forth (or see page 36 for more food-preservation resources).
Fresh!
My basic produce basket, especially during the cold months, holds garlic, potatoes, onions, garlic, shallots, carrots, cabbage, garlic, lemons, cilantro, garlic, bananas, apples, romaine, garlic, cauliflower, and hot peppers. Did I mention garlic? Most fresh fruit from the grocery store tastes like crap to me, so I hardly ever eat it. Naturally, there’s a lot more variety during the farmer’s market and home-gardening season.
Cheese It
When I buy and use dairy products, including eggs, the majority are from organically produced sources; I don’t want any growth hormones in my food, thankyouverymuch. (I really don’t care if it’s certified either.) Some of the imported European cheeses usually aren’t labeled as such, but I think you have to weigh the quantity and frequency of consumption against the urging of your taste buds to just go with it … so, let your taste buds have their say once in a while.
If We Weren’t Supposed to Eat Animals …
… then why did God make them out of meat?
Yes, I cook meat and eat it. I also harvest and butcher and brine and smoke and sausage and even jerk it on occasion. My first choice is always wild, whether mammal, bird, or fish; next is home or locally raised. Now, I could get onto a very tall soapbox here concerning a number of issues, including the ethics of eating meat, religion, cultural traditions, despicable farming practices, hunting for sport instead of for food, current government standards and/or the lack thereof, people who think they have the answers for everyone else … but I digress. If you can’t or don’t or won’t eat meat, simply avoid those recipes in this book that include it (and there are only a few) or substitute your preference. As far as I’m concerned, a freshly harvested carrot is just as sentient as any of the walkers and squawkers, and yogurt is still alive and kicking when you eat it. I do not propose to set into stone any particular philosophy except Gratitude for the food in my larder and Awareness of the sources from whence they came. Personally, I have never been able to understand the whole “fake meat” thing.
Is She Finished Yet?
To summarize the pantry and its contents, I strive to use whole and minimally processed foods as much as possible. I am very eclectic in my diet and my approach to cooking, and I do not dwell too much on any particular regimen except for wanting good, whole, organically grown food. Support your local growers and producers if you can’t do it yourself. I am blessed by my involvement with a food co-op, which definitely helps offset the higher cost of quality bulk foods; I’ll bet there’s one in your neighborhood too.
Have fun stocking your pantry. Take pleasure in imagining the wonderful dishes you’ll create with a bit of this and a dash of that. Just don’t try to stock it all at once—you might not have any cash left for, let’s say, cookbooks!
Handbooks and References I Reach For Most Often
You might notice that I have gone into great detail describing certain steps in these recipes and remedies. This is to assure success in your creations and to assure your safety. The instructions for making herbal vinegar are a case in point: I re-e-e-ally want it to come out right for you.
As author of this book, as a hands-on herbalist, as a mother and grandma, and as a certified Master Food Preserver/Food Safety Advisor, I feel a personal responsibility to present correct information concerning herbs and wild plants and to explain the most current and generally-recognized-as-safe procedures for handling any food recipe in this book. However, since this is not an herb identification handbook or a food science text, nor am I a food scientist, I am somewhat limited in what can realistically be explained within the parameters of this book. So this chapter is devoted to some of those books, websites, and other resources I have used to get answers for my own questions. I want to help you learn to help yourself. This list does not endorse any particular authors or publications; it just so happens that I reach for these books and references more often than not.
Cookbooks I Have Used Over and Over Again
• Cook’s Illustrated magazine
• The Moosewood Cookbook by Mollie Katzen
• How to Bake by Nick Malgieri
• The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook
• The Seattle Times Cookbook
• The Passionate Palate by Desirée Witkowski
• The Kitchen Witch’s Cookbook by Patricia Telesco (includes recipes by yours truly)
• Snackers by Maureen & Jim Wallace
• The Pioneer Lady’s Country Kitchen by Jane Watson Hopping
Some books that I just love to read include any book by Paula Wolfert. Some are visually stunning to look at, such as the herb cookbooks by author Emelie Tolley and photographer Chris Mead. I’ve had a baker’s dozen of the Time/Life series The Good Cook for decades and refer to them often for the step-by-step photos of many techniques. If you can find old issues, look for The Kitchen Garden magazine by Taunton Press (these are the same folks who publish Fine Woodworking and Fine Gardening magazines); while no longer in print, it was a wonderful blend of creative cooking and kitchen gardening, with great photos. Another resource is, again, the Internet for a world wide web of recipes and cooking resources, such as Epicurious.com. I recommend scheduling a bit of time for this activity, as you can really get lost in the fun. Don’t forget used book stores; they can be a great source of the obscure and unusual, which is the story of my life.
University/State Cooperative Extension Programs
These programs offer current canning and freezing procedures, backed by years of extensive research. Simply go online and search “[your state] Cooperative Extension,” or ask at the library, or look in the phone book. These extension programs will be associated with at least one university in your state or a neighboring state, and some systems are multi-state. The Master Food Preservers and Master Gardeners are both programs of University Extension, but not all states or counties offer them. The National Center for Home Food Preservation is a program through the University of Georgia, and they offer a free course in learning how to preserve food; look for it online.
Books on Canning and Preserving (Be Sure to Reference with Extension Procedures)
• Ball Blue Book Guide to Preserving by Alltrista Corporation. They make the Ball and Kerr brand canning jars and lids, and update recipes regularly. This is the book your granny probably used, but please get a current version. I found an ancient one at a yard sale that is so out of date, it called for canning green beans in a water bath canner for three hours—not recommended!
• Well Preserved by Mary Anne Dragan
• Putting Food By by Janet Greene & Ruth Hertzberg
• Canning & Preserving Without Sugar by Norma M. MacRae. I really like the options here, from honey to concentrated apple juice, for sweetening your home-grown products.
• Stocking Up by Rodale Press
• Summer in a Jar by Andrea Chessman. I like her recipes, but I do not recommend the procedure called “steam canning,” which is not recommended by Extension research.
• So Easy to Preserve by Cooperative Extension, the University of Georgia.
• Pomona’s Universal Pectin, a two-part type of pectin, offers recipes with their product, which will gel with “any amount of any sweetener”—very versatile. This is the only type of pectin I have ever used.
Just like regular cookbooks, there are many canning cookbooks and websites as well as those mentioned on my list. If you find a recipe that leaves you unsure of the procedure, do not hesitate to contact your Cooperative Extension office; they will refer you to people like me, who will help you find the answers.
The next list alphabetically refers to books I have been reaching for since well before I became a grandma. While they are formally listed in the bibliography, I have annotated the more important texts that I have come to appreciate.
Books About Herbs and Wild Plants
for Food and Medicine
• Herbal Medicine and The Complete Herbal Guide to Natural Health & Beauty by Dian Dincin Buchman. The author gleaned some of these recipes from her Romanian grandmother, who learned from Gypsies.
• Lewis Clark’s Field Guide to Wildflowers of the Mountains in the Pacific Northwest and A Field Guide to Wildflowers of Forest and Woodland in the Pacific Northwest, also by Lewis J. Clark. There are some good photos here.
• Cunningham’s Encyclopedia of Magical Herbs by Scott Cunningham. The late, popular author has also written other magical encyclopedias, including aromatherapy and food, and obviously loved his subject matter.
• Nature Bound Pocket Field Guide by Ron Dawson. Very good photos.
• Handbook of Edible Weeds by James Duke. Duke is very knowledgeable, with years of experience with the USDA as well as personal experience. He has been leading indigenous plant tours of the Amazon and other places for years, with emphasis on preserving wild plant species.
• Wild Roots by Doug Elliot. A look at the unseen world.
• Cornucopia—A Source Book of Edible Plants by Stephen Facciola. This is one of the books I use for referencing the botanical names of plants. It is a veritable gold mine of plant types and sources to procure seed.
• Weeds of Eastern Washington and Adjacent Areas by Xerpha M. Gaines and D. G. Swan. Very good text on local plants (to me at least) and good drawings.
• Stalking the Healthful Herbs and Stalking the Wild Asparagus by Euell Gibbons. These are wonderful and informative narratives, never out of style.
• Ethnobotany of Western Washington by Erna Gunther
• Montana: Native Plants and Early Peoples by Jeff Hart. This book offers many anecdotal uses of plants, the author having interviewed many Native herbalists and elders in his research.
• Wild Wildflowers of the West by Edith S. Kinucan and Penny R. Brons. Edie was the person I sought out during the original Wild & Weedy publications to survey some of my articles for accuracy, and she has exposed a couple of urban legends more than once.
• Common Herbs for Natural Health by Juliette de Bairacli Levy. The author is a world traveler, and many of her remedies reflect this.
• The Herb Book by John Lust. A classic.
• American Medical Ethnobotany: A Reference Dictionary by Daniel E. Moerman. This book is unbelievable in its depth. Check out his extensive website at the University of Michigan, Dearborn.
• Medicinal Plants of the Mountain West and Medicinal Plants of the Pacific West by Michael Moore. These books are hands-down my favorite herbals. Moore is a very engaging writer and full of pertinent anecdotes.
• Field Guide to Forest Plants of Northern Idaho by Patricia Patterson, et al. This book is a USDA–Forest Service field guide, and I have used it for decades.
• Discovering Wild Plants by Janis J. Schofield. Good photos, useful entries.
• Wild Teas, Coffees & Cordials: 60 Drinks of the Pacific Northwest by Hilary Stewart. Beautiful drawings, interesting recipes.
• The Ecoherbalist’s Fieldbook by Gregory L. Tilford. Similar to Moore’s books in scope, Tilford’s far-sighted vision concerns the sustainability of wildcrafting.
• Northwest Wild Berries by J. E. Underhill. How many do you recognize?
• Healing Wise by Susun Weed. Susun has written several other herbals; her approach is the Wise Woman tradition of healing—holistic and holy, and very useful and informative.
• Earth Medicine Earth Food by Michael A. Weiner. This book concerns the Native American use of many common plants.
This list is by no means complete. I have read and consulted (and purchased) literally hundreds of books over the years, which certainly doesn’t take the place of actual fieldwork, but it’s a start.
Of course, if you have any questions about the recipes or procedures in this book, or want to share any ideas or experiences, please do not hesitate to contact me via the publisher.