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FLAVOR PROFILES OF GOSE

The new Gose tastes better than the old one, which was, in its pure state, barely enjoyable.

—This comment from an experienced Gose drinker in 1986 appeared in the Berliner Zeitung newspaper, regarding Lothar Goldhahn’s resurrected Gose of that year, contract brewed by the Schultheiss brewery in Berlin.

The [new] Gose is now more vinous, has a slight acidic character, and lactic acid air and flavor; the foam is very acid with little hops, the beer is yeast-cloudy, fresh, and very refreshing because of its still considerable acidity.

—This description of the same 1986 Gose also appeared in the Berliner Zeitung.

The Gose beer style is over 1,000 years old, and during that time the beer has changed in innumerable ways. I have tried to capture an “average” of what Gose was probably like during three separate eras: the Middle Ages (AD 950–1400), the modern period (1600–1900), and the contemporary period (mid to late 1900s into present day). During each of these periods, Gose-style beers were notably different than they were at other times, although each of these three renditions of Gose would have shared many similar characteristics. Throughout all three periods, the beer remained a moderately low-gravity, slightly saline, sour wheat beer.

The flavors and aromas listed here are for Gose beers made without unusual additional flavorings, such as non-traditional spices or fruit. Obviously, additions of fruit or spices will greatly alter the beer’s flavor profile. The fact that Gose-style beers easily lend themselves to being flavored with spices or fruit makes it difficult to cover all possible flavor variations.

ACIDITY AND pH

Since acidity is such a big part of Gose, I felt it should be addressed before looking at the other specifications of the beer’s flavor profile. Acidity is the main thing that has defined the Gose style since its beginning and also what makes it so unusual as a German beer.

To better understand a Gose-style beer, you need to know a little about acidity, how it is usually measured, and how it works. There are two ways to measure acidity, namely pH and titratable acidity (TA). We will discuss pH first. Acidity is the effective strength of an acid in solution. We use the pH scale to measure that level of acidity or basicity. For the more scientifically minded, acidity is the concentration of hydronium (H3O+) in an aqueous solution and pH is one of the scales we use to measure that concentration.

The pH scale was developed at the Carlsberg Laboratory in Denmark by Søren Sørensen in 1909. The p stands for “power of” or “potential of” and the H stands for hydrogen. The pH scale is the negative logarithm of hydrogen ion concentration, and it runs from zero (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline, or basic), with 7.0 being neutral. At room temperature (25°C), pure water is pH 7. Accordingly, a pH below 7 is acidic, and a pH above 7 is alkaline.

The pH scale is logarithmic, like the Richter scale that measures earthquake intensity, and uses base 10. Each increase or decrease of 1.0 on the pH scale indicates a ten-fold change of hydrogen ion concentration. Thus, a solution of pH 4 is 10 times more acidic than a solution of pH 5, and 100 times more acidic than a solution of pH 6. Remember, the lower the number, the more acidic it is.

Temperature will affect pH, so pH readings should be taken at or calibrated to a temperature of 77°F (25°C). As the temperature rises, pH decreases. For example, at 32°F (0°C) the pH of pure water is 7.47; at 77°F (25°C) its pH is 7.00; and at 212°F (100°C) its pH is 6.14. Be sure to adjust your pH reading accordingly if the temperature of your solution is greater or less than 77°F (25°C).

pH plays an important role in the brewhouse, both in the mash tun, where it will have an effect on enzymatic activity, and in the kettle, where it will affect protein coagulation, hop utilization, and Maillard reactions. Keeping track of pH can also give you vital information on the progress of fermentation. As fermentation progresses, pH decreases. In sour beers, the acidity level can tell you how far bacterial activity has progressed. Because of the many ways pH can affect your beer’s flavor, good brewing practice dictates that pH should be measured and tracked throughout the process. To brew Gose-style beers reliably and consistently, you will need a way to measure pH. I would suggest investing in a decent digital pH meter. A pH meter is much easier to read than pH strips and leaves no room for interpretation. They are also much more accurate than pH strips, although pH meters do need to be kept properly calibrated—a relatively easy process—by checking their accuracy against two standard buffer solutions of known pH.

The pH range for most finished, unsoured beers runs between 4.0 and 4.5. Sour beers will run in the range of about 2.9 to 3.9 pH.

TYPICAL pH VALUES IN NORMAL BREWING

Water pH

6.7 to 7.6 optimum

Mash pH

5.0 to 5.7 optimum (should not go below 4.8)

Sparge water over grain

<6.0

Wort pH

4.9 to 5.5 optimum

Beer pH

3.9 to 4.6 optimum

Rinse water pH

pH same as source water

APPROXIMATE pH OF COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE BEERS

Anderson Valley Holy Gose

3.3

Lindemans Cuvée René Gueuze

3.4

Lost Abbey Duck Duck Gooze

3.3

New Belgium Clutch

4.0

Reuben’s Gose

3.2

Russian River Consecration

3.3

Westbrook Gose

3.4

Widmer Marionberry Hibiscus Gose

3.8

Perception and Titratable Acidity

The other main way to measure acidity in liquids is titratable acidity (TA). While pH is an easier and more common method of measurement, TA will give you a more accurate measurement of how the beverage will be perceived. Both are measures of acidity, but TA is a more accurate measure of what you will taste. The general rule is, the lower the pH, the higher the TA, but in actuality these two measurement scales cannot be correlated very well. This is because pH measures only part of what TA measures. Titratable acidity is usually expressed in grams per liter (g/L).

These concepts of pH and TA can be confusing, but I will try to keep it as simple as possible. The more acid you add or create in a solution, the lower the pH, and the higher the titratable acidity. For weak acids, which includes organic acids found in wort or beer, this relation can be explained in the formula:

where pKa is the negative log of the disassociation constant of the organic acid being measured.

True, a great many people, myself included, struggle to understand this. So, if you don’t get it, don’t worry about it too much, just keep reading.

In a solution there is both free and bound hydrogen. The pH scale is a measurement of how many free, positively charged hydrogen ions are in the solution. When we measure titratable acidity (TA), we add sodium hydroxide (an alkali, or base) to the solution. What occurs in the solution is that the sodium hydroxide (NaOH) first neutralizes the free, positively charged hydrogen ions, those measured by the pH scale. Once all the free hydrogen ions are neutralized, the sodium hydroxide begins to start to unhook bound hydrogens that are attached to the remaining organic acids in the solution, and by doing so renders them free to be measured. As this happens, we gradually add more sodium hydroxide to the solution. The sodium hydroxide continues to unhook and neutralize hydrogen ions. Only when you have added a sufficient amount of sodium hydroxide to unhook all the accessible hydrogens is our measurement of the titratable acidity complete. At that time your solution pH will be neutral (see below). Titratable acidity does not just measure a specific acid in a solution, for example, lactic or acetic acid; TA measures all the acids in that solution.

Since the proportion of free and bound hydrogen varies greatly according to several variables, most notably the type of acid, so then does the relationship between pH and TA. Both measurements can be important, because they are measuring different, but certainly related, things.

There are many different kinds of acids, and each is made up a little differently. It is important to understand that each acid has a different strength of tartness on the tongue. Some acids are very sharp, others much less so.

With this background on the perception of acidity, it should be easier to understand that how tart a beer tastes is not solely a function of its pH. Different acids will contribute different amounts of TA. And each type of acid will contribute its own unique character to beer. For example, lactic acid, produced by Lactobacillus or Pediococcus bacteria, is described as much softer on the pallet than acetic acid (produced by Acetobacter bacteria). Acetic acid is often described as harsh, burning or biting. To give you a better idea, lactic acid is the main acid in yogurt; acetic acid is the main acid in vinegar. Imagine two beers with the same pH of 3.3. One gets 20 percent of its total acidity from acetic acid, the other gets 100 percent of its total acidity from lactic acid. The acetic acid beer will have a much sharper level of perceived acidity than the 100 percent lactic acid beer.

The harshness of acetic acid is one reason many brewers say it is a flaw in almost all beers and should be kept to very low levels, even in the few styles, like oud bruin (sour Flanders brown ale) in which it is an accepted part of the flavor profile. Flavor perception is the reason we care about TA. The pH scale only quantifies the amount of free hydrogen ions in solution; however, your sense of taste interprets not just the free hydrogen ions, but also some of the bound hydrogen that is subsequently released by the acids in the beer. Most people agree that TA is a more accurate representation of how acidic something will taste. Again, keep in mind that different acids are perceived to have different levels of sourness intensity, so two beers with the same TA may taste very different—for example, a Gose with 100 percent lactic acid versus a Flanders Brown with 20 percent acetic acid. Both have the same TA, but taste very, very different. Keep in mind that there are many other factors that can affect one’s perception of acidity level, including residual malt sweetness, herbs, flavorings, temperature, and carbonation.

One may wonder, if TA is the measurement we taste, why bother with pH at all? There are many processes that are pH dependent: saccharification during mashing, hop utilization and protein coagulation during the boil, and healthy yeast metabolism. All these activities require specific pH ranges. If we are to assure that these processes progress in the manner desired, we need to provide the optimal pH range for them. Also, a pH reading is much easier to take and does not taint the sample with sodium hydroxide. But both measurement processes are valuable—the TA measurement, for example, can be a good tool for use in blending.

Figure 2.1. An artist’s rendering of a delivery from Dollnitz brewery at the back door of Ohne Bedenken Gose tavern. Artist Fritz Brändel.

GOSE IN THE CONTEMPORARY PERIOD (MID-1900S TO PRESENT DAY)

This section introduces the specifications of the contemporary period in which Gose-style beers are modeled after the Leipzig Gose beers that are now brewed worldwide.

Specifications of Contemporary Gose

Carbonation

Carbonation should be on the higher side of 2.55–3.0 volumes CO2.

Starting and Finishing Gravities

Original Gravity (OG): These are not big beers, so your starting gravity should be no higher than about 14°P (1.057), and could be as low as 8°P (1.032). Typical starting gravities should be about 10°P (1.040).

Final Gravity (FG): Gose should finish dry, between 1.25°P (1.005) and 3°P (1.012), and certainly not above 3.25°P (1.013). Typically, final gravities should be about 2.25°P (1.009).

Alcohol

The alcohol by volume (ABV) on these beers is fairly low, between 3 and 5 percent.

Color

The color of Gose should be relatively pale, in the range of 1.5 to 6.0 SRM (3 to 12 EBC). This might be a little higher if brewers decide to use a small amount of specialty malt.

Certainly, Gose-style beers will be hazier than German Pilsners, at 0–4 nephelometric turbidity units (NTU). They can range from as low as 20 to as high as 800 NTU, but they should not be milky or opaque. Some haze is acceptable, but Gose should not be as hazy as hefeweizen-style beer.

pH

The pH should fall between 3.2 and 3.6. Sourness should be low to medium-high, but should complement the overall beer.

Bitterness

Bitterness should be low—between 5 and 15 IBUs—although some brewers in the US have produced hoppy Gose-style beers. The hoppy versions fall far outside the guidelines of the Leipzig Gose tradition.

Figure 2.3. An old advertisement that shows two kissing Gose bottles. Notice the stange (glasses) for legs.

Flavor Profile

Flavor

Gose is a tart wheat beer with low bitterness and a restrained touch of seasoning, most often that of coriander. This beer is brewed with both barley and wheat in equal amounts and the flavor reflects this mix. The beer has a mild salinity. The overall impression from the salt should be a light mineral quality and not one of saltiness. Gose-style beers usually have a high carbonation level. The tartness is the result of lactic acid and this is often described as a lemon or citrus tartness. Bitterness should be low and generally go unnoticed. Gose-style beers have bright, sharp flavors that make it refreshing to drink. They are highly attenuated and should finish dry and crisp, never full-bodied or flabby. The restrained acidity and sourness should balance the bready, doughy, wheat malt character.

Aroma

Gose-style beer aromas are often light to moderately fruity. The malt aroma is reminiscent of sourdough bread dough. There may be a cider quality to the overall aroma. The use of coriander can give the beer a floral and sometimes lemony note. These coriander notes, when mingled with the fruitiness and sourness, create a pleasing aroma. Hop aroma should be low and when noticeable should complement the other aromatic components. The fermentation (both bacterial and yeast) should be clean, with very low levels of funkiness to none at all. The aromatic qualities should be mild to moderate and should blend together to create an overall impression of being fresh and spritely.

Appearance

Gose-style beers are a very light straw to medium amber color. Typical Gose beers are light golden with a white head. They are unfiltered wheat beers, and as such may range from fairly hazy to bordering on almost bright. High carbonation levels should lend a pleasing effervescence. They may have good head retention from the wheat, but due to lactic acid fermentation, some may also have very little foam at all.

Mouthfeel

The body of these beers is light to medium-full. The overall impression should not be heavy.

GOSE IN THE MODERN PERIOD (1600–1900)

These specifications cover the period of 1600–1900 for Gose as it was brewed in southern Anhalt, Quedlinburg, Halle, Glauzig, and then Leipzig. This was a period of great flux in the brewing world. At the period’s start, beers were being made in a fairly similar fashion to those of the era before them, but by the end, brewing had come into the modern age replete with much of the scientific knowledge and brewing equipment that we have and use today.

Specifications of Modern Period Gose

Carbonation

Carbonation should be on the medium to medium-high side of 2.2 to 2.6 volumes CO2.

Starting and Finishing Gravities

Original Gravity (OG): The starting gravity would be moderate—a maximum of about 12 to 14°P (1.048 to 1.057) and as low as 7°P (1.028). The typical starting gravity should be about 11°P (1.044).

Final Gravity (FG): These beers should finish dry, between 1.5 and 2.5°P (1.006 and 1.010), and certainly not above 3°P (1.012). Typical final gravity should be about 2.0°P (1.008).

Alcohol

The ABV on these beers is fairly low, between 2.8 and 4.8 percent.

Color

The color of these Goses should be relatively pale to white, in the range of 1.5 to 8.0 SRM (5 to 16 EBC). The malt that they were using would have been similar to the base malts we use today in many ways. In the early part of this period it appears that Gose-style beers were usually 100 percent wheat malt; later in this period that percentage shifts and we see more barley being used. We can be fairly certain that they were using some Luftmalz (air-dried malt). Some references put the amount of Luftmalz at about 30 percent of the malt used, others suggest up to 100 percent. Whichever the case, the Luftmalz has less color and produces a light colored, often cloudy beer, not unlike Belgian witbier.

pH

The pH should fall between 3.2 and 3.8. Sourness ranges from medium to medium high, but should complement the overall beer. It should be noted that, in the early modern period, most Gose beers were spontaneously fermented by a mixed culture of microbes that resided in the wooden brewing equipment. These mixed cultures would have contained some Acetobacter bacteria and, if exposed to air over time, would have developed a distinct acetic acid flavor in aged or older Gose. This may have changed in the mid-1800s when brewing moved to using specific mixed culture additions.

Bitterness

Bitterness should be low, between 3 and 12 IBUs.

Flavor Profile

Flavor

This era’s Gose is a tart wheat beer with low bitterness and a restrained touch of seasoning, most often that of coriander. They have a mild salinity—the overall impression from the salt should be a light mineral quality, noticeable, but not one of saltiness. Salt was generally used to enhance flavor and body. These beers were highly attenuated and dry. They usually had a medium-high carbonation level, somewhat lower before mechanical stoppers were introduced. Gose’s tartness is predominately the result of lactic acid fermentation or, in some cases, the addition of lactic acid—this was often described as a lemon or citrus tartness. Bitterness would have been low and generally gone unnoticed. Hops were used, but at very low rates. Gose displayed bright, sharp flavors that made it refreshing to drink. These beers should finish relatively dry and crisp, not full or round. The restrained acidity and sourness should balance the bready, doughy malt character.

Figure 2.4. A postcard from the Gosenschenke with greetings from Leipzig. The artwork shows the unique shape of Gose bottles.

Aroma

Aromas during this timeframe were light and moderately fruity. They were often described as having a white-wine aroma. The malt aroma was reminiscent of bread dough, most notably sourdough. They were sometimes described as having a cider-like aromatic quality. The use of Luftmalz would have contributed a slight grassy note. Coriander or other herbs and spices gave the beer an herbal and sometimes lemony quality. These coriander notes, when mingled with the fruitiness and sourness, create a pleasing aroma. Hop aroma was not present. The fermentation, both bacterial and yeast, would be clean with low to very low levels of funkiness in younger versions. Generally speaking, in older, aged versions of Gose you might find that Brettanomyces contributed some fruity or light horsey aromas, and bacteria may have contributed aromas of funk or acetic acid.

Appearance

Visually, this era’s Gose was very light straw colored to light amber. A good percentage of the malts were air-dried and produced a very light color, making what was often described as white beer with a white head. They were unfiltered wheat beers, and as such were fairly hazy to semi-hazy. Higher carbonation produced a pleasing effervescence. The beers were reported to have a good foam head.

Mouthfeel

The body of these beers was light to medium-full, somewhat heavier than later versions due to the use of Luftmalz, but not heavy.

GOSE IN THE MIDDLE AGES

These are the general specifications for the Gose beers brewed in Goslar and neighboring towns from AD 950–1400.

There were many differences between beers brewed in the early Middle Ages and beers brewed today. In the early Middle Ages there were no hops used in brewing. Brewers often used gruit or an herb and spice mix as a bittering agent and for flavor. The brewing equipment was mostly made of unlined wood, with all its potential for adding tannins and microbiological contamination. There were no thermometers, no hydrometers, no conical tanks. The malting process, although recognizable by today’s standards, was quite different. The resulting malts would therefore also have been fairly different. Malt was kilned with less heat for longer periods of time than today’s malt.1 The kilning process is what gives malt, even pale malt, much of its flavor; with less kilning there would be fewer Maillard reactions and fewer bready or biscuit flavors. Gravities would have been higher and the beers heavier, because alcohol was the beer’s only real preservative (Corran 1975).

The brewers did not pitch yeast, although they may have used the “leavings” from one batch to start the fermentation of the next. The beer might have been spontaneously fermented, but much more likely fermentation was started by a mixed culture that had taken up residency in the wooden vessels.

This quote from a nineteenth century newspaper article about Gose suggests that not only was the yeast not pitched, but that there were other bacteria and probably wild yeast like Brettanomyces active in the ferment as well: “There is no yeast pitched into the beer. Due to that fact, a thick layer of mold builds on top of it. The thicker this leather-like layer gets, the better the stability of the beer. The reason is that the mold layer blocks oxygen from getting into the beer. Only when the beer is given away is yeast pitched.”2

The brewing process would have been quite different as well. Very few brewers owned their own brew kettle, so much of the equipment was shared and sometimes community-owned. Brewers used the parti-gyle brewing system well into the eighteenth century. They would mash the same grain several times to achieve beers of differing gravities. Lautering was done through straw or spruce branches or twigs. There was no sparging of the mash. They would prepare four or five versions of the beer from one milling of grain. The Frehmtenbestekrug (best-made jug) was made with the first runnings, and this was the best Gose—and it was often heavily spiced with other herbs. This beer was only given to the best pub customers. The second mash created the second wort, then a third wort was produced, and finally a fourth wort, or Hüppig. Additional malt and salt were sometimes added to the last wort. Each type of beer came in specially marked vessels at the time of sale. The beer made with the last runnings would have obviously tasted much different from the one with the first.

The kettles were wood fired, thus making the process somewhat smoky, and although there are some references to the wort having a limited or possibly no boil at all, others say the wort was usually boiled, even as long as two hours. If the wort was boiled for any length of time, the direct-fired kettle would have led to some notable caramelization of the wort. There was no temperature control of any kind for wort cooling, so the wort sat out waiting to get cool enough for fermentation to start. This also meant there was no cooling to control fermentation temperatures. In all likelihood, the beer was fermented in relatively shallow vessels, allowing for sufficient heat dissipation. There was also no cooling of the beer after fermentation was complete. It is hard to know what organisms were involved in the fermentation—certainly yeast, and certainly some bacteria. Top-fermenting yeast was probably the main fermentation organism. Whatever fermented the beer, we can be certain that it was not a pure strain culture like most brewers use today. It was probably several strains, and there was probably a fair dose of lactic acid bacteria involved as well. In all likelihood, if aged long enough, there was probably some Acetobacter as well as Brettanomyces involved at some point too.

Once the beer was finished, there was the service of the beer. The drinking experience would have been significantly different from that of today. Carbonation would have been lower, because in the Middle Ages there were no vessels or bottles that sealed well enough to hold very much pressure. There was also no glassware—drinking vessels would have been made of wood, horn, leather, gourds, or, for the wealthier consumers, maybe ceramics or metal. The beer would have been served fairly warm, as there was no refrigeration. It would have been served in a house, tavern, or inn among the (literally) unwashed masses, where the acidic aroma of the beer might have been a welcome change over the piquant aroma of your neighbor at the table.

Figure 2.5. Typical activity outside of a tavern during the Middle Ages. Flemish Kermess by David Teniers the Younger, 1640. Staatliche Museen, Berlin, Germany.

Boiled water from the kettle is poured on top of the malt and is mixed thoroughly through. After it will be boiled for some hours. This extract is the best wort and is called Beste Krug.

Water is again added to the grist in the vat. After this, the runnings are cooked and then they are stored in separate vessels in the cellar since every infusion is weaker than the one before. The beer is filled into casks with a certain proportion of each running. (The beer has to be fermenting before it is filled.) The filling is done by selected and sworn-in people. This is the source of the different kinds of Gose. Each has a different amount of the Beste Krug in them. The prices for these types are also different. The Gose types that are drunk at the table are sold for four Pfennig a Maaß [large mug], the ones that are better cost 6 Pfennig, and the strongest kind is the Mariengroschen. The Mariengroschen is a strong drink which should not be drunk till fully matured, otherwise you would get too drunk.

—Journal von und für Deutschland edited by Sigmund von Bibra, 1791, p.363;(Translation by Benedikt Rausch and Fal Allen.)

Specifications of Middle Ages Gose

Carbonation

Carbonation of these early beers would be lower, coming in around 1.1 to 2.0 volumes CO2. There were not very many vessels that could hold much more than about 2.2 volumes of pressure, which is about 12 psi (83 kPa) at 45°F (7°C). Even if the first beer out of a pressurized cask was at 2.2 volumes, once the beer started to be dispensed it would lose its condition fairly quickly. More likely the beer would have been about 1.6 volumes (8 psi, or 55 kPa) at around 55°F (13°C).

Starting and Finishing Gravities

Original Gravity (OG): Starting gravity would probably have been higher than 14 or 15°P (1.057 or 1.061) for the beste Krug (best jug) beer, and then lower for the subsequent beers. Likely 12–13°P (1.046–1.053) for the second brew and down in descending order until that last beer probably had an OG of about 8°P (1.032). The higher gravity for the first two brews would be partly because, until the thirteenth century, the common beers of northern Europe were spiced ales that needed alcohol as a preservative—often beers were “a heavy and thick drink” (Lawrence 1990). Toward the end of this period, when hops came into use, beer could be brewed with less malt to achieve the same balance and longevity (Hieronymus 2012, 55).

Final Gravity (FG): These beers finished somewhat drier, between 2.0 and 3.2°P (1.008 and 1.013) and not much above 3.3°P (1.013), given wild yeast and bacterial fermentation. The last brew would have finished in the range of 0.5–0.8°P (1.002–1.003).

Alcohol

The alcohol by volume (ABV) on these beers would have been a little higher, between 3.8 and 5.5 percent, maybe a little higher for the Frehmtenbestekrug, and of course lower for the last brew. They were made to be consumed fairly quickly after fermentation and not meant to be stored, thus we can deduce that the alcohol was probably lower than that of contemporary “brown beers.”

Color

This is a tricky question. On one hand it has been suggested that the beers were being brewed with air-dried wheat malt, a process in which the malt is dried in the sun or air without ever being kilned. This malt would have been relatively light in color and would produce a light and cloudy beer. On the other hand, the color of the earliest Gose or those beers brewed to the south of Goslar might have been somewhat darker than today, in the range of 3 to 10 SRM (6 to 20 EBC), because during the early Middle Ages malting was often done on a small scale at home or on a farm, and most of that type of kilning used a wood-burning heat source. These beers probably were brewed with mostly wheat malt, but may have had lesser amounts of barley or even oats. Certainly, these Gose beers would have been hazy with such a malt bill. Additionally, there was no cooling of the beer to precipitate chill haze or assist in yeast flocculation. The lack of hops and short boil times would have limited protein coagulation and probably created a very hazy beer.

pH

The pH probably ranged between 3.2 and 3.6. Sourness would have been low to medium-high depending on the age of the beer, but it would have complemented the overall beer. Acidity would have come from multiple microbiological sources, including Lactobacillus and probably Acetobacter, as the beer aged. There are written accounts from the later part of this period that describe a thick, leathery layer forming on top of the beer as it fermented. This leathery layer might have been the result of Gluconobacter, Pichia, or other heavy pellicle-forming microorganisms in the fermenting mixed culture. The pellicle would have initially protected the beer from oxygen, suppressing Acetobacter growth and reducing acetic acid formation. Thus, young Gose was probably much less acidic than older, aged versions.

Bitterness

The bitterness in beers from this era would have come from the herbs, spices, or tree barks used in the gruit or other herb mixtures. These beers were probably not boiled for an hour or more as we do today. They might not have even been boiled at all, since there were no hops to extract bitterness from, and sterilization from boiling was not a concept understood at that time. Hops weren’t introduced until around the 1200s, and even then use varied from location to location.

Figure 2.6. “With the girl good-looking and slender, While drinking Gose the cooling drink, When the stuff is sparkling in the glass, The uncle is quite amused.”

FLAVOR PROFILE

Flavor

These Gose beers would have been tart wheat beers with very low bitterness, seasoned most likely with gruit herbs and spices. They were probably made with 100 percent air-dried wheat malt. The air-dried malt would have given them a raw, grassy clover or alfalfa flavor (see the section on Luftmalz in chapter 3). There would have been a mild, mineral salinity from the water source or from small amounts of added salt.3 Highly attenuated and dry due to the lactic bacteria fermentation, the tartness would be mostly the result of lactic acid, but during these years there might have been some acetic acid produced as well due to contact with the open air. This acidic tartness would have mingled with the more funky aromas and flavors of the wild yeast that assisted with fermentation. Balance of these beers came from acid then, as it does in modern Gose. Acetic acid, as we’ve noted, is more biting and vinegar-like. Lactic acid has bright, citrus-like flavors that lend an element of refreshment to beer. This refreshing quality may be one reason that Gose gained such popularity over other beers—they were balanced by the lactic acid and not sweet and heavy as the brown beers of this period are said to be. There was probably a white-wine or cider-like quality to the overall aroma and flavor (meaning with the aroma of grapes, pear, or apple). There are many accounts describing Gose as white-wine like. Because they were open-fermented and stored in wood, if they were left for too long they would have become more acetic and eventually very vinegar-like. There are many accounts from later periods of Gose not aging well and taking on aggressive vinegar flavors. Spruce boughs may have been used in the lautering process and, potentially, spruce barrels may have contributed some flavors.

Aroma

Aromas of the Gose of this time would have been moderately fruity, or maybe a bit more than moderate—remember they had no temperature control during fermentation. The malt aroma would have been reminiscent of sourdough with a hint of vinegar and a slightly grassy or alfalfa note. There was probably a white-wine or cider quality to the overall aroma and flavor. The use of herbs or gruit would give the beer an herbal aroma, which hopefully would have blended with the fruitiness of the fermentation esters. It is doubtful, but of course possible, that coriander was used in these early versions of Gose. Coriander was known in Saxony during this era, but was not common (Weicker 1899). Coriander may also have been part of the gruit mix. Spruce tips and branches were probably part of the overall flavor profile. The fermentation, both bacterial and yeast, would have produced low to medium levels of funkiness. Brettanomyces might have contributed some fruity or light horsey aromas in aged versions of the beer. Older versions might also have had aromas of acetic acid from exposure to Acetobacter and air. The aromatic qualities should be mild to moderate, and should blend together to create an overall impression of fresh, bready, and spritely.

Figure 2.7. “Without a doubt” the perfect Gose pour at Gosenshenke Ohne Bedenken in Leipzig, Germany. Courtesy of Edgar Schmidke.

Appearance

These beers were unfiltered, unchilled wheat beers, and as such would have been hazy.

Mouthfeel

The body would have been medium-light to medium. There might have been small amounts of oats or other grains used in these beers, giving them a bit more body and mouthfeel.

PUBLISHED DESCRIPTIONS OF GOSE

Döllnitzer (Leipziger) Gose.

Original wort: 7-8°P. Infusion procedure.

The Gose is a cloudy, slightly acidic beer and was already mentioned as an export beer in 1755, but originally came from Goslar and was later produced in Döllnitz. Nowadays it is produced in the Leipzig area by a number of breweries, but the yeast is taken from the distillery Libertwolkwitz.

—“Die Fabrikation obergäriger Biere in Praxis und Theorie” by Braumeister Grenell, 1907, page 74. (Translation by Ron Pattinson)

The brew (3.8 percent ABW, 4.8 percent ABV) has an original gravity of (1.050–1.051), though historically the style varied from 9–14°P (1.036–1.056). The Ohne Bedenken Gose is smooth, spritzy, very fruity and tart. The salt is clearly evident, but not dominant.

—Michael Jackson from Michael Jackson’s Beer Companion, 1997.

I found Dr. Hennebach’s beer very drinkable indeed [at the Ohne Bedenken tavern]. Or was it the salt that sharpened my thirst for more? The orangy-yellow brew is very fruity and lemon-tasting, though neither as sharp as Berliner weisse nor as long as gueuze.

—Michael Jackson, Beerhunter.com, May 9, 2000, http://​beerhunter.com/​documents/​19133-000844.html.

In Leipzig, the modern version of the Gose style has settled into a very distinct flavor profile—a green apple aroma, a ripe plum fruitiness, an herbal coriander finish, and a refreshing hit of salt that makes it very moreish and easy to drink.

—Emily Monaco, Eater, October 30, 2015, https://​www.eater.com/​drinks/​2015/​10/​30/​9643780/​gose-beer-germany.

It’s not so strong as compared to the Berliner weisse or any of these specialty Belgian beers. It’s a relatively medium sourness, and it has a little bit of a fruity flavor. It goes very well together with the coriander, which produces citrus flavors in the beer. It’s a nice combination.

—Henryk Szymczak, brewer at Gasthaus & Gosebrauerei Bayerischer Bahnhof as quoted by Emily Monaco, Eater, October 30, 2015, https://​www.eater.com/​drinks/​2015/​10/​30/​9643780/​gose-beer-germany.

Elegant golden yellow with a fine turbidity. First impression? Fizzy but sometimes sour as well. Its true nature? Rather bitter and dry. Its greatest strength? That certain something! Its hidden talents? 10.8 % original gravity, 4.5 % alcohol content, lactic fermentation–and a distinctive coriander character.

—Gasthaus & Gosebrauerei Bayerischer Bahnhof, Leipzig, Germany, 2013,http://​www.gose.de/​en/.

Rittergut brewed the only genuine Gose. Apple and pear aroma; sour taste with apple, horse blanket and lemon; sour fruit finish with lemon and apple aromas. An outstanding beer with a flavor profile usually unseen outside Belgium.

—Ron Pattinson, “Breweries in the former DDR: Leipziger Familienbrauerei Ernst Bauer KG,” European Beer Guide (website), copyright 2014, https://​www.europeanbeerguide.net/​ddrbrew.htm#bauer.

RATING AND DESCRIPTION BY LARS MARIUS GARSHOL, 2005

Aroma Appearance Flavour Palate Overall

6/10

3/5

7/10

3/5

14/20

Medium creamy white head with some big bubbles, which subside quickly. Milky orange body. Aroma is sourish with notes of flour and maybe a hint of coriander. Taste is big, with a citrus-like sourness which balances in the mouth. Aftertaste is thin, lingering sourness. A very unusual beer, and a lot more drinkable than the description of the beer type would have you think. I quite like it, without really thinking it the greatest invention of the beer world.

Source: Lars Marius Garshol, “Gose,” Larsblog, December 4, 2005, http://​www.garshol.priv.no/​blog/​19.html.

1 Personal discussion with Randy Mosher.

2 From “Lokales aus der Provinz und aus den Nachbarstaaten: Goslarsche Gose,” Goslarsche Zeitung, February 17, 1882, quoted by Benedikt Rausch [nacron, pseud.], “Gosslarsche Gose,” Wilder Wald (blog), February 15, 2017, http://​wilder-wald.com/​2017/​02/​15/​gosslarsche-gose/.

3 Caroline Southern, “The Somewhat Disgusting Origin of the Gose, America’s New Favorite Beer,” Hop Culture, February 9, 2017, https://​www.hopculture.com/​the-history-of-gose-beer/.