MARISCOS ESTILO MAZATLÁN
governor tacos (sautéed shrimp tacos)
garlic-sautéed head-on shrimp with grape pico salsa
When I started to think about which recipes I wanted to include in my book, my first idea was that I wanted to share with you a bit of where my family comes from, un pedacito de mi Mazatlán (a little piece of my Mazatlán).
One of the main reasons I cook the way I do is that the recipes I use have been handed down through several generations of powerful women. In fact, in the little town of Barron, which borders the largest river in Mazatlán, the town folk still tell stories of the women I am proud to call my ancestors. Women like my great-grandmother Julia, una gran señora (a grand woman) who would cook from the wee hours of the morning to feed the men who worked the fishing boats til well past sunset and the workers tending the nearby mango or chile crops.
This is an homage to a region of Mexico so often overlooked for its gastronomy, a cuisine based on fresh seafood elevated with some of the most basic of ingredients. And it’s a tribute to all of the hardworking men and women who live in Mazatlán and earn their living with honor. Por ustedes!
AGUACHILE
When Father’s Day rolls around, I’ll turn to my dad and ask him what he’d like me to make for his special meal. I don’t really have to ask, though, because the answer is always aguachile.
Aguachile translates to “chile water,” and the dish is named for the spicy acidic liquid in which these shrimp are cooked.
Although there are many different versions of aguachile, we typically make this dish with habanero chiles. I realize that most palates cannot handle that level of spice, so I’ve called for chiles de árbol or serranos instead. However, if you are a serious fan of heat, feel free to turn it up by swapping in super spicy habaneros.
serves 6
2 pounds (910 g) medium or large shrimp, peeled
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (240 ml) fresh lime juice
2 fresh chiles de árbol or 1 to 3 fresh serrano chiles, stemmed
1 red onion, thinly sliced into half moons
1 large cucumber, thinly sliced into half moons
1 large Roma tomato, sliced into half moons
Up to 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
Butterfly the shrimp: On a cutting board, place each shrimp on its side and insert a knife about three-quarters of the way into the outside curve of the shrimp from the head to the tail, making sure not to cut all the way through. Remove the vein with the tip of your knife.
Place the butterflied shrimp in a large nonmetallic bowl, toss with the salt, and refrigerate while you make the sauce.
In a blender, combine the lime juice and whole chiles and blend until the chiles are completely broken down. Add the onion slices and half of the cucumber slices to the shrimp and toss, coating the onion and cucumber with salt.
Line a platter with the remaining cucumber slices and all of the tomato slices. Spread the shrimp mixture into a single layer on the platter using a nonmetallic spoon or spatula and slowly pour the chile-lime sauce over the shrimp (see Notes). Sprinkle with the red pepper flakes, if using. I hope you have a cold drink nearby, because you’re going to need it!
notes
In Mazatlán, aguachile is served up right after it’s made—raw. If you’d like your shrimp to cook in the lime juice a bit, cover it before garnishing and put it in the refrigerator for about 10 minutes, mixing it once or twice, before serving. You will know the shrimp is thoroughly cooked when it turns pinkish white and you no longer see any gray.
clam ceviche in the shell
ALMEJAS PREPARADAS EN CONCHA
Every other Sunday, I find myself calling my friends Tania and Eiliana in search of mariscos (seafood). When we aren’t making them at home, we’ll visit our favorite food truck and chow down on some almejas preparadas (clam ceviche).
Clams can take some effort to pry open; you’ll just need to be patient and stern with them. It’s worth the work, though, as preparing them ceviche style makes for one of the most authentic, delicious, and regenerative dishes you can feed yourself.
serves 4
4 large live clams
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
¼ cup (60 ml) tomato juice cocktail such as Clamato
¼ cup chopped tomato
¼ medium cucumber, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped yellow onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
1 jalapeño or serrano chile, minced (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Bottled hot sauce (optional)
Scrub the clam shells well. Take a shucking knife and place it in the small separation between the edges of a clam by the hinge.
Place the clam in one hand, using a towel to cushion your hand for extra safety. Using your other hand, slowly but firmly rock the knife back and forth to ease it into the sides of the shell, pushing your palm against the knife for traction. This will take some effort. Be very careful. If you cannot identify where your knife is going, use the back of the knife to scrape off some of the lip of the shell so you are able to see the closure.
Once you have wedged the knife in between the top and bottom shells, push firmly toward the top of the shell, running the knife across the top and cutting at the two abductor muscles holding it together. You want to reach as far back as the valve, but do not cut through. Do this quickly. Use your knife to open the shell enough so you can place your fingers inside and pry the mollusk open without breaking the valve. Cut the two other abductor muscles and place the clam meat along with its juices into a small bowl. Reserve the clam shells. Repeat with the other clams.
Roughly chop the clam meat, then return it to the bowl with its juices. Add the lime juice and allow the clam meat to marinate for about 2 minutes, then add the tomato cocktail, tomato, cucumber, onion, cilantro, and chile, if using. Season with salt and pepper and mix to combine.
Spoon the ceviche into the shells and serve with a bottled hot sauce, if desired, and ice-cold cerveza (beer).
CHORROS AL CARBON
Growing up, my abuelita (grandmother) would share stories about my great-grandma Julia’s beachside pop-up restaurant; every day local fishermen would bring her buckets of fresh mussels that she’d prepare, with tourists and locals swooning for the grilled treats.
In my take on grilled mussels, the smokiness of the grill and the savory juices of the mussels, mixed with all that amazing garlic, will have your mouth watering instantly. Munchkin is also a big fan of these mussels, as they are by far her favorite form of seafood. Like mother, like daughter!
serves 8
1 cup (2 sticks/225 g) salted butter
8 to 10 garlic cloves, minced
4 pounds (1.8 kg) fresh mussels, scrubbed and debearded
Leaves from ½ bunch fresh cilantro, chopped
4 to 6 limes, cut into wedges
Hot sauce of choice
Preheat an outdoor grill to medium-high heat (about 375°F/190°C). Mesquite or real wood will add that authentic smokiness to your mussels, but an electric grill will work as well.
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the garlic and immediately turn the heat off.
Place the mussels in a disposable aluminum roasting pan, pour the butter over the mussels, and toss with a spoon to coat the mussels in the butter.
Place the mussels on the grill, cover with the lid or aluminum foil, and allow to smoke for 3 minutes. Uncover and mix the mussels again (some mussels will begin to open). Cover again and grill for another 3 minutes, then toss again and cook for another 3 minutes. The amount of liquid inside your roasting pan will increase as the mussels begin to open. After your third check, all of the mussels should be open and perfectly smoked; if not, give it another round, then discard any that haven’t opened. Remove from the heat.
Sprinkle with the cilantro and squeeze a couple of limes over the mussels. Serve immediately, with more lime wedges and hot sauce alongside.
governor tacos (sautéed shrimp tacos)
TACOS GOBERNADOR
No, this recipe isn’t named after any of my home state of California’s famous governors! It’s actually named after a governor of the state of Sinaloa who once visited the city of Culiacán. A local chef invented a taco to welcome the governor, and when he asked what the taco was called, the chef named it the “governor taco.” These sautéed shrimp tacos went on to become a crowd favorite across port towns all over Mexico.
This recipe calls for a sauce called Salsa Maggi. It’s like a Mexican version of soy sauce, and I use it in several recipes in the book. Start off slow and add as much or as little as you like to suit your taste.
makes 8 tacos
8 (6-inch/15-cm) corn tortillas, homemade (see this page) or store-bought
8 ounces (225 g) Oaxaca cheese or Monterey Jack cheese, pulled or cut into thin strips
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 pound (455 g) small to medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small red onion, thinly sliced
1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced
¼ cup (60 ml) Maggi sauce
Preheat a griddle or comal (tortilla griddle) over medium-high heat to get it nice and hot.
Reduce the heat under the griddle to low, add a couple of tortillas, and heat them for 15 to 30 seconds on each side, until soft and malleable. Add 1 ounce (28 g) of cheese to one side of each tortilla and fold the empty side over the cheese side to form a quesadilla. Press down on the quesadilla with a metal spatula for the first few seconds so the cheese sticks, then cook for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, until the cheese is completely melted and the tortillas start to get crisp. Repeat with the remaining tortillas and cheese.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the shrimp and season lightly with salt and pepper. Cook until just turning pink on both sides, 2 to 4 minutes, flipping the shrimp halfway through cooking. Remove the shrimp to a bowl. Add the onion and bell pepper to the pan and cook until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes, stirring often. Return the shrimp to the pan, add the Maggi sauce, and toss quickly until incorporated and the shrimp are fully cooked through.
To serve, open up a crispy quesadilla and add some shrimp and vegetables. Fold it back over and serve piping hot.
PULPO ACHIOTE ASADO
So much of my MasterChef journey was about reinventing dishes I grew up with. I remember losing sleep trying to come up with ways to elevate the most rustic of dishes. This grilled octopus, which I made during the “Top 3 Challenge,” is one I am particularly proud of; nevertheless, it was judged as too rustic for the MasterChef kitchen. The plating pictured here was inspired by my friend and colleague Chef Iker Castillo, who consistently pushes me and inspires me to do greater things because he, too, aims to elevate Mexican food as we know it. We should all be so lucky to have people like him in our circles. Thanks, Dude.
Serve the octopus over Oaxacan Avocado Cream (this page) and pineapple-mango salsa (see this page) or with Frisée and Poblano Salad with Honey-Citrus-Jalapeño Dressing (this page) like I did on the show. No matter which you choose, the dish will be delicious!
serves 4
FOR THE ACHIOTE OCTOPUS:
2 fresh octopi (2 to 3 pounds/910 g to 1.4 kg each)
2 cups (480 g) coarse kosher salt
1 tablespoon annatto seeds
8 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons dried Mexican oregano
FOR THE ACHIOTE GLAZE:
1 orange, juiced
2 tablespoons achiote paste
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
Cooking spray
Fresh micro cilantro, for garnish
Sliced red radishes, for garnish
TO MAKE THE OCTOPUS:
Pull back the tentacles of each octopus, push the head of the octopus inward, and remove the beak using a pinching motion with two fingers to push it out.
Place a dish towel over a large cutting board or flat work surface. Place one octopus over the towel and cover with 1 cup (240 g) of the salt. Place another towel over the octopus to cover it and prevent splatter. Using a French rolling pin (the kind without handles) or another sturdy wooden object (not a meat tenderizer, as they are too heavy and will break the tentacles), hit the octopus a number of times to tenderize it. Take care not to hit the tentacles too hard, as they can break. Thoroughly rinse off the salt and set aside. Repeat with the second octopus.
Bring a large pot of water to a soft (not rolling) boil. Add the annatto seeds, garlic, and oregano. Invert the head of an octopus so that it is easy to hold. Hold it high up over the pot, dip the tentacles into the water for 10 seconds, and pull them out. Keep it out of the water for about 10 seconds, then plunge it back again, this time holding the tentacles in the water for about 15 seconds. Pull the octopus back out of the water and place it in a bowl while you repeat with the second octopus. Drop both of the whole octopi back in to the pot (see Notes). Bring to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook at a low simmer for about 1 hour, until the octopi are fork-tender. Remove the octopi from the water. Cut the tentacles from the heads, slice the heads into rounds, and set aside.
Pour the orange juice into a small saucepan and add the achiote paste, vinegar, sugar, and salt. Bring to a simmer over low heat and cook until the sugar and achiote paste are completely dissolved and the mixture is thick. Set aside to cool.
TO FINISH THE DISH:
Set a grill pan over medium-high heat and spray it generously with cooking spray.
In a large bowl, toss the octopus pieces with the achiote glaze to fully coat. Place them on the grill pan in a single layer and grill until just charred, 30 seconds to 1 minute on each side; remove from the heat. To plate, spoon some avocado cream or frisée salad over four plates. Create small mounds of octopus on top, beginning first with the head and finishing with the tentacles, and serve, garnished with the micro cilantro and radishes.
notes
Dipping the octopus tentacles in the boiling water twice breaks the fibers so it doesn’t toughen up as it cooks.
You can reduce the cooking time to about 30 minutes by using a pressure cooker to cook the octopus like I did on the show.
garlic-sautéed head-on shrimp with grape pico salsa
CAMARONES BARBONES AL MOJO DE AJO CON SALSA BANDERA DE UVA
My signature MasterChef dish had to be something that represented me. After all, it would be how I earned my apron and a place in the competition. It needed to be—as Chef Ramsay put it—me on a plate. I wanted to go with something traditional but technically difficult, which is how I came to choose head-on, shell-on shrimp as the focus of the dish. They are very easy to overcook, so follow my instructions carefully and you will not only have a beautifully cooked meal, but a dish worthy of the praise of family and friends.
The grape pico salsa was an untraditional but tasty pairing, providing a punch of sweet acidity to the salty, garlicky shrimp to balance out the dish. To serve your shrimp Mazatlán style, use Mexican White Rice (this page) as an accompaniment.
serves 4
FOR THE GRAPE PICO SALSA:
1½ cups (225 g) chopped red grapes
½ small red onion, minced
¼ cup (10 g) finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves
½ serrano chile, minced
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SHRIMP
½ cup (1 stick/115 g) salted butter, divided
8 garlic cloves, minced, divided
12 large head-on shrimp or prawns
Salt
TO MAKE THE PICO SALSA:
Place the grapes, onion, cilantro, chile, and lime juice in a medium bowl and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside while you cook the shrimp.
TO MAKE THE SHRIMP:
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add one-quarter of the minced garlic and cook for 20 seconds. Add three of the shrimp to the pan on their sides and season each shrimp with a pinch of salt. Cook, keeping the garlic butter at a simmer and lowering the heat if the garlic starts to brown too fast, until the shrimp begin to take on color, about 2 minutes. Flip the shrimp over and tilt the pan, using a large spoon to baste the shrimp with the garlic butter sauce. Cook, continuing to baste, for an additional 2 minutes, or until the flesh of the shrimp begins to just pull away from the shell (see Notes, this page). Remove the shrimp from the pan and place on a platter.
Remove the garlic butter from the pan to a bowl and repeat with the remaining butter, garlic, and shrimp, adding the finished shrimp to the platter as they are done. Garnish with the grape pico salsa and Mexican White Rice (this page) if you like.
The residual steam in the shells will continue to cook the shrimp after you remove them from the pan. Keeping them from getting overcooked is something that takes practice, so check your first batch and adjust the timing as needed. Watching for the shrimp to pull away from the shell is the most reliable indicator of doneness for shell-on shrimp.
grilled red snapper
PESCADO PARGO ZARANDEADO
You all met my mother in the MasterChef “Family Reunion” episode. My mom was absolutely thrilled to be served dinner by all three chefs—Gordon Ramsay, Graham Elliot, and Christina Tosi. She still boasts about it! Something you should know about my mother—other than the fact that she is a better cook than I am—is that she absolutely loves this dish. Growing up, my mom wanted nothing more than a 3-pound fish all to herself for her birthday dinner!
While this technique may be unfamiliar to some of you, believe me, there is something absolutely magical about grilling a fish whole and eating it family style with grilled refried bean taquitos (see this page) on the side.
Warm some tortillas (see this page or this page) to eat with this flaky fish, and if you really want to be transported to Mexico, grab yourself a crisp cold beer. You’ll see just how perfect this summer favorite is.
serves 4
FOR THE FISH:
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1½ teaspoons yellow mustard
4 garlic cloves, minced
½ teaspoon New Mexico chile powder
¼ cup (60 ml) Maggi sauce, divided
1 (3- to 4-pound/1.4- to 1.8-kg) red snapper, butterflied from head to tail (ask your fishmonger to do this for you)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cooking spray
FOR THE VEGETABLES:
1 teaspoon canola oil
1 medium red onion, sliced into thin half-moons
1 medium green bell pepper, seeded and sliced ¼ inch (6 mm) thick
1 large tomato, sliced
Lime wedges
TO MAKE THE FISH:
Preheat an outdoor grill to medium heat.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard, garlic, chile powder, and 1 tablespoon of the Maggi sauce until incorporated.
Place a large piece of aluminum foil (large enough to hold your butterflied fish completely open) on a work surface. If your fish still has its fins, you can cut them so your fish lies completely flat. Place the fish on the foil skin-side down. Season the flesh side generously with salt and pepper, then generously brush the flesh with the seasoned mayonnaise. (There is no need to brush the marinade on the skin, as it won’t be eaten.)
Spray a large fish-grilling cage with cooking spray on the side that will be touching the flesh side of the fish. Using the aluminum foil as an aid, place the fish onto the grilling cage and close it. Flip it over so the flesh side is the first to hit the grill. Discard the foil.
Sear the fish until it starts to cook through and you have some crispy, almost burnt pieces of fish, 3 to 5 minutes. Flip the fish so the skin side is facing down and grill until the fish is cooked through, 7 to 10 minutes more.
TO MAKE THE VEGETABLES:
Heat the oil in a medium sauté pan over high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until starting to soften. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of Maggi sauce and continue to cook until the onion begins to wilt slightly. Remove from the heat.
To plate, very carefully remove the fish from the cage and place it on a large serving platter, skin-side down. Garnish with the sautéed onion and pepper and the tomato slices. The heat of the fish will warm the tomatoes slightly but not cook them. Serve with lime wedges alongside.
