6Drinking & Nightlife

Santiaguinos take Sunday off to be with family, but you party any other day. Bellavista is the main nightlife district, while the chic Lastarria, working-class Brasil and upscale Vitacura and Providencia neighborhoods are best for bars. Most clubs don’t start until midnight, staying open until 4am or 5am.

6Barrios Lastarria & Bellas Artes

oBocanárizWINE BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2638-9893; www.bocanariz.cl; Lastarria 276, Barrio Lastarria; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, 7-11pm Sun; mBellas Artes)

You won’t find a better wine list anywhere in Chile than this homey restobar with servers who are trained sommeliers. Try creative wine flights (themed by region or style) or sample several top bottles by the glass. There are also meat and cheese plates, as well as hearty Chilean dishes (mains CH$8000 to CH$12,000). Reservations recommended.

oChipe LibreCOCKTAIL BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2664-0584; Lastarria 282, Barrio Lastarria; h12:30pm-12:30am Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat; mBellas Artes)

Learn about the big sour over pisco – and who made it first – at the only bar in Santiago dedicated to the South American brandy. There are as many piscos from Peru as Chile on the menu and you can try them in flights of three or within an array of flavored sours. Reserve ahead for tables on the interior patio.

Opera CatedralCOCKTAIL BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2664-3048; www.operacatedral.cl; cnr JM de la Barra & Merced, Barrio Bellas Artes; h12:30pm-3am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; mBellas Artes)

Classy Opera Catedral has a menu that goes way beyond bar snacks – anyone for a glass of champagne with violet crème brûlée? A poised crew of professionals in their 20s and 30s love this cocktail bar’s minimal two-tone couches, smooth wood paneling and mellow music. Head to the roof deck for views over Cerro Santa Lucía.

MamboletaCOCKTAIL BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2633-0588; www.mamboleta.cl; Merced 337, Barrio Lastarria; h9:30am-midnight Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri, 11am-2am Sat, 3:30-11pm Sun; W; mBellas Artes)

With eclectic music that spans the continents and the decades, as well as a pretty decent patio, this is a good spot to begin your noche de carrete pub crawl. Cocktails tend to be cheaper here than elsewhere in the barrio.

Lastarria CaféCAFE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2633-0995; www.facebook.com/lastarriacafe; Lastarria 305, Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro, Barrio Lastarria; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun; W; mBellas Artes)

Adjacent to a small visual-arts museum on a quaint cobblestoned passageway, this cheerful courtyard cafe does lovely cappuccinos, loose-leaf teas, pastries, gourmet sandwiches and salads.

Café MosquetoCAFE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2664-0273; Mosqueto 440, Barrio Bellas Artes; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun; W; mBellas Artes)

This adorable cafe offers a cozy spot on a rainy day, while the sidewalk tables, facing a pedestrian street, provide fantastic people-watching when the sun shines. The pedestrian mall that runs along Mosqueto between Monjitas and Merced is lined with several similar cafes with cheap eats and strong espresso coffees.

El DiablitoBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2638-3512; www.eldiablito.cl; Merced 336, Barrio Lastarria; h6pm-3am Mon-Fri, 7pm-4am Sat, 7pm-2am Sun; mBellas Artes)

Old photos and vintage household items clutter the already dark walls of this smoky den. After dark, the tiny tables seem to invite you to huddle conspiratorially into the small hours; great-value schop (draft beer) and pisco sours are two more reasons to stay.

6Barrio Bellavista

Club La FeriaCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.laferia.cl; Constitución 275; cover CH$10,000; hfrom 11pm Thu-Sat; mBaquedano)

Euphoric electronic music, an up-for-it crowd and banging DJs mean this is still the place to go to dance the night away.

El ClanCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/BarElClan; Bombero Núñez 363, Barrio Recoleta; cover CH$4000-7000; h10pm-4am Tue-Sat; mBaquedano)

The name’s short for ‘El Clandestino,’ a throwback from this small club’s undercover days. Rotating bands and a crew of resident DJs keep the 20-something crowds going – expect anything from ’80s to house, R & B, funk or techno.

6Barrio Italia

Xoco Por Ti Chocolate BarCAFE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-5774-2673; www.xocoporti.com; Av Italia 1634; hnoon-8pm Tue-Sun; mSanta Isabel)

Sweet-toothed travelers will reach nirvana at this pint-sized chocolate bar, which has a tempting menu of hot chocolates to melt away any winter woes. Chocolate-inspired frappes and ice creams also go down smoothly on the plant-packed patio. Customize any order by strength (55% to 85% cocoa) and origin (Bolivia, Brazil, Peru or Ecuador).

6Barrio Brasil & Barrio Yungay

oBlondieCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.blondie.cl; Av O’Higgins 2879, Centro; cover CH$2000-6000; hfrom 11:30pm Thu-Sat; mUnion Latinoamericano)

The ’80s and ’90s still rule at least one floor of Blondie, while the other could have anything from Goth rock and techno to Britpop or Chilean indie. A favorite with both Santiago’s student and gay communities, it’s usually packed.

Cerveceria NacionalCRAFT BEER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9218-4706; www.cervecerianacional.cl; Compañía de Jesús 2858, Barrio Yungay; h7pm-12:30am Mon-Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat; mQuinta Normal)

Pitchers of craft beer are not so easily found in Santiago, which is why this no-frills brewpub is such a rare treat. The home-brewed cervezas span the beer rainbow, from pale lager to imperial stout, while the pizza selection is equally diverse. A pitcher and a pizza for two will only set you back about CH$12,000.

BairesBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2697-4430; www.bairesushiclub.cl; Av Brasil 255, Barrio Brasil; hnoon-2am Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat; W; mRicardo Cumming)

Technically it’s a ‘sushi club,’ but the nightlife at Baires is what brings in the crowds. The terrace tables fill up quickly, even on weeknights; there’s an encyclopedia-sized drink list, and DJs occasionally get going upstairs on weekends.

6Barrio Recoleta

Bar La VirgenBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell9-9221-8576; www.barlavirgen.cl; Bombero Nuñez 290; h6:30pm-2am Tue-Thu, 7pm-3am Fri & Sat; mBaquedano)

Cheap Chilean tapas and good-value cocktails are the reasons to grab a table at this rooftop bar in Recoleta, which boasts views of Cerro San Cristóbal (but, oddly enough, not La Virgen atop it). You’ll find the stairs up to La Virgen behind a black unmarked door on Bombero Nuñez near the intersection with Santa Filomena.

6Providencia

Santo RemedioCOCKTAIL BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.santoremedio.cl; Román Díaz 152; h1-3:30pm & 6pm-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat; mManuel Montt)

Strictly speaking, this low-lit and spectacularly funky old house is a restaurant, and an aphrodisiacal one at that. But it’s the bar action people really come for: powerful, well-mixed cocktails and regular live DJs keep the 20- and 30-something crowds happy.

FaustinaCAFE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2244-2129; Av Andrés Bello 2177; h7:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat; W; mLos Leones)

Quality coffees and fast wi-fi make this Providencia cafe an expat favorite. A mellow vibe permeates the place, from the pillow-covered sofas inside to the beachy benches on the terrace out front.

California CantinaSPORTS BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6249-3041; www.californiacantina.cl; Las Urbinas 56; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri, 3pm-4am Sat, 3pm-1am Sun; mLos Leones)

A popular stop on the Providencia happy-hour circuit is this spacious California-inspired bar with something for (almost) everyone: a dozen beers on tap, Mexican pub grub like tacos and quesadillas, terrace seating, everyday cocktail specials and fútbol matches on the big screen.

Mito UrbanoCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.mitourbano.cl; Av Manuel Montt 350; cover CH$4000-6000; h4pm-4am Tue-Sat; mManuel Montt)

At this fun-loving nightclub, disco balls cast lights on the good-looking 20-, 30- and 40-somethings dancing to vintage hits and Chilean pop. Check the schedule for salsa classes, karaoke, live jazz and other promotions that aim to bring people in before midnight.

6Ñuñoa

Cervecería HBHBREWPUB

(www.cervezahbh.cl; Av Irarrázaval 3176; h5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 7:30pm-2am Sat; mÑuñoa)

Beer buffs and students rave about this laid-back microbrewery. As well as pouring out icy glass mugs of its own house-brewed stout and lager, HBH offers pizza by the slice.

6Las Condes, El Golf & Vitacura

La MisiónWINE BAR

(%9-4018-0793; www.lamisionsantiago.cl; Av Nueva Costanera 3969, Vitacura; h12:30pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat)

Santiago’s newest (and hippest) wine bar highlights the best vinos from across the Americas, including neighboring Argentina and Uruguay. Order by the glass or select a tasting of three wines united by a common theme (region, grape, style etc). Stick around for a meal on the airy patio out back and you may find the prices high and portions small.

CafetinCOFFEE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2880-9608; www.cafetin.cl; Don Carlos 3185, Barrio El Golf; h8am-7:45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; W; mEl Golf)

Geek out over the latest coffee trends at this stylish cafe where addicts can order their morning fix brewed in everything from a Chemex to an AeroPress. Rotating art exhibitions and live music on the patio make Cafetin a welcome alternative in the otherwise business-minded neighborhood. Stop by on weekends for bountiful brunches.

Flannery’s Beer HouseIRISH PUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2303-0197; www.flannerysbeerhouse.cl; Av Tobalaba 379, Providencia; h12:30pm-2am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2am Sat, 5:30-11:30pm Sun; mTobalaba)

Now in a new location a few blocks away from the original, Flannery’s remains popular with gringos and well-toned and well-lubricated locals alike. The two stories contain plenty of nooks and crannies, while a large terrace and excellent beer list round out the offerings.

3Entertainment

Whether you get your kicks on the dance floor or at the fútbol stadium, whether you’d rather clap in time to strumming folk singers or at the end of three-hour operas, Santiago has plenty to keep you entertained.

oEl Huaso EnriqueTRADITIONAL MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2681-5257; www.elhuasoenrique.cl; Maipú 462, Barrio Yungay; cover CH$2500-3000; h7pm-2am Wed-Sun; mQuinta Normal)

On weekend nights at this traditional cueca venue, watch proud Chileans hit the dance floor – performing their national dance, a playful, handkerchief-wielding ritual that imitates the courtship of a rooster and hen – to traditional live music.

oMunicipal de Santiago - Ópera Nacional de ChileTHEATER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Municipal Theater of Santiago; %2-2463-1000; www.municipal.cl; Agustinas 794, Centro; tickets from CH$3000; hbox office 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun; mSanta Lucía)

This exquisite neoclassical building is the most prestigious performing-arts venue in the city. Home to the Ópera Nacional de Chile, it also hosts world-class ballet, classical music and touring acts. Guided tours of the theater (CH$7000) run Monday, Wednesday and Friday at noon and 4:30pm. Reserve ahead at visitasguiadas@municipal.cl to arrange a tour in English.

CorpArtesARTS CENTER

(%2-2660-6071; www.corpartes.cl; Rosario Nte 660, Las Condes; h11am-8pm; mManquehue)

This glossy (and moneyed) cultural center hosts big-name art exhibitions from the likes of Yoko Ono and Yayoi Kusama. There are also top-notch theater, dance and orchestra performances in an 880-seat theater.

Centro Cultural Matucana 100ARTS CENTER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2964-9240; www.m100.cl; Matucana 100, Barrio Estación Central; galleries free, show prices vary; hgalleries open noon-6pm Tue & Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sun; mQuinta Normal)

One of Santiago’s hippest alternative-arts venues, the huge redbrick Centro Cultural Matucana 100 gets its gritty industrial look from its previous incarnation as government warehouses. Renovated as part of Chile’s bicentennial project, it now contains a hangar-like gallery and a theater for art-house film cycles, concerts and fringe productions.

Estadio NacionalSOCCER

(National Stadium; %2-2238-8102; Av Grecia 2001, Ñuñoa; mIrarrázaval)

On the whole, Chileans are a pretty calm lot – until they step foot in a fútbol (soccer) stadium. The most dramatic matches are against local rivals like Peru or Argentina, when ‘Chi-Chi-Chi-Lay-Lay-Lay’ reverberates through the Estadio Nacional.

Tickets can be bought at the stadium. Equally impassioned are the hinchas (fans) of Santiago’s first-division fútbol teams like Colo Colo, Universidad de Chile and Universidad Católica.

Centro de Extensión Artística y CulturalTHEATER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; CEAC; %2-2978-2480; www.ceacuchile.com; Av Providencia 043, Providencia; mBaquedano)

The Orquesta Sinfónica de Chile and Ballet Nacional Chileno are two high-profile companies based at this excellent theater run under the auspices of the University of Chile. There is a full season of ballet, choral, orchestral and chamber music, as well as the occasional rock gig.

Club de JazzJAZZ

(%2-2830-6208; www.clubdejazz.cl; Av Ossa 123, La Reina; cover CH$5000-7000; h9:30pm-3am Tue-Sat; mPlaza Egaña)

One of Latin America’s most established jazz venues (Louis Armstrong and Herbie Hancock are just two of the greats to have played here), this venerable club hosts local and international jazz, blues and big-band performers.

La BatutaLIVE MUSIC

(www.batuta.cl; Jorge Washington 52, Ñuñoa; cover CH$3000-6000; h7pm-4am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; mÑuñoa)

Enthusiastic crowds jump to ska, patchanka (think: Manu Chao) and cumbia chilombiana; rockabilly and surf; tribute bands and Goth rock…at Batuta, just about anything alternative goes.

La Casa en el AirePERFORMING ARTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2735-6680; www.lacasaenelaire.cl; Antonia López de Bello 0125, Barrio Bellavista; h8pm-late; mBaquedano)

Latin American folk music, storytelling gatherings, film cycles and poetry readings take place nightly in this low-key boho bar.

Cineteca NacionalCINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.ccplm.cl/sitio/category/cineteca-nacional; Centro Cultural La Moneda, Centro; adult/student CH$3000/2000; mLa Moneda)

Located in the Centro Cultural La Moneda, this underground cinema plays documentaries and art-house favorites (mostly in Spanish).

Estación MapochoCULTURAL CENTER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Mapocho Station; www.estacionmapocho.cl; Plaza de la Cultura, Centro; hevent times vary, check website; mPuente Cal y Canto)

Rail services north once left from Estación Mapocho. Earthquake damage and the decay of the rail system led to its closure, but it’s been reincarnated as a cultural center which hosts art exhibitions, major concerts and trade expos.

It’s worth a walk by just to check out the soaring cast-iron structure of the main hall, which was built in France then assembled in Santiago behind its golden beaux arts–style stone facade.

Teatro CaupolicánLIVE MUSIC

(%2-2699-1556; www.teatrocaupolican.cl; San Diego 850, Centro; mParque O’Higgins)

Latin American rockers who’ve played this stage include far-out Mexicans Café Tacuba, Argentinian electro-tango band Bajofondo and Oscar-winning Uruguayan Jorge Drexler; international acts like Garbage and James Blunt also play concert dates at Teatro Caupolican.

7Shopping

Some shoppers may be initially put off by the Centro’s uninspiring shopping streets, pedestrianized Ahumada and Huérfanos, not to mention Santiago’s overall megamall addiction, but there are fantastic indie stores with made-in-Chile goods at places like Providencia’s Galería Drugstore or Barrio Italia’s Estacion Italia. For seriously cheap clothes, head to the Korean and Palestinian immigrant area of Patronato, west of Bellavista.

oLa Tienda NacionalBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2638-4706; www.latiendanacional.cl; Merced 369, Barrio Lastarria; h11am-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat; mBellas Artes)

Much more than a bookstore, this two-floor shop sells Chilean movies, documentaries, records, toys, shirts and more. A must-visit to purchase unique gifts.

oPueblito Los DominicosARTS & CRAFTS

(Los Dominicos Handicraft Village; %cell 9-7681-6870; Av Apoquindo 9085, Las Condes; h10:30am-7pm; mLos Dominicos)

Santiago’s best place to buy quality gifts that were actually made in Chile. This mock village houses dozens of small stores, art galleries and traditional cafes. Look for lapis lazuli jewelry, Andean textiles, carved wooden bowls and ceramics with indigenous motifs.

oArtesanías de ChileARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2697-2784; www.artesaniasdechile.cl; Plaza de la Ciudadanía 26, Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda, Centro; h9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 10:30am-7pm Sun; mLa Moneda) S

Not only does this foundation’s jewelry, wood carvings, ceramics and naturally dyed textiles sell at reasonable prices, most of what you pay goes directly to the artisans who made them. Look for other locations at Los Dominicos and the airport, as well as towns throughout Chile.

Plop GaleríaARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2633-2902; www.plopgaleria.com; Merced 349, Barrio Lastarria; h11am-8pm; mBellas Artes)

Tucked away in an unassuming passageway behind the ticket booth for Teatro Ictus, this shop specializes in graphic art, design books and other products handmade in Chile. You can also stock up on art supplies or purchase a one-of-a-kind postcard to send home.

VinomioWINE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2735-3786; www.vinomio.cl; Antonia López de Bello 090, Barrio Bellavista; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat; mBaquedano)

This boutique wine shop has the most knowledgeable staff in town to help pair serious oenophiles with rare bottles not found in the supermarket. You might pay more, but your reward is insider knowledge and a handpicked selection of quality quaffs. Stop by Thursday evenings for free wine tastings (Spanish only).

Estacion ItaliaSHOPPING CENTER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.estacionitalia.cl; Av Italia 1439, Barrio Italia; h11am-7pm Sun & Mon, to 8pm Tue-Sat; mSanta Isabel)

This hub of commerce houses more than two-dozen independently owned boutiques selling everything from art supplies (Arte Nostro) to graphic novels (Pánico Ediciones) and hand-crafted leather shoes made in Chile (Blasko). Think of it like a mini mall for the mall-averse.

Galería DrugstoreFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.drugstore.cl; Av Providencia 2124, Providencia; hshops 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat; mLos Leones)

Head to this cool three-story independent shopping center for clothes no one back home will have – it has tiny boutiques of several up-and-coming designers, arty bookstores and cafes.

Persa BiobíoMARKET

(www.persa-biobio.com; Barrio Franklin; h10am-5pm Sat & Sun; mFranklin)

Antiques, collectibles and fascinating old junk fill the cluttered stalls at this famous flea market that sprawls across several blocks between Bío Bío and Franklin. Sifting through the jumble of vintage sunglasses, antique brandy snifters, cowboy spurs, old-fashioned swimsuits and discarded books is an experience.

It’s also a choice spot to try some Chilean street food. Just be sure to keep one hand on your valuables while stuffing food into your mouth; pickpockets have been known to prey on unsuspecting shoppers.

Kind of BlueMUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2664-4322; Merced 323, Barrio Lastarria; h11:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat, 12:30-8:30pm Sun; mBellas Artes)

At the best music shop in town, savvy multilingual staff happily talk you through local sounds and artists, and can get hard-to-find imports in a matter of days.

El Mundo del VinoWINE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2584-1173; www.elmundodelvino.cl; Isidora Goyenechea 3000, Barrio El Golf; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; mTobalaba)

This revamped location of the high-end wine chain (look for other branches throughout Chile) features 6000 bottles from around the world – or from just a short drive away in the Colchagua Valley – at the hip W Santiago hotel.

Patio BellavistaSHOPPING CENTER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.patiobellavista.cl; Constitución 53, Barrio Bellavista; h11am-10pm; mBaquedano)

Posh contemporary crafts, leather goods, weavings and jewelry sell at premium prices at this shopping and dining complex.

ContrapuntoBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2231-2947; www.contrapunto.cl; Av Providencia 2124, Galería Drugstore, Local 010-011, Providencia; h10:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2:45pm Sat; mLos Leones)

Sells high-end art, design and coffee-table books, mostly in Spanish.

Alto Las CondesMALL

(www.altolascondes.cl; Av Kennedy 9001, Las Condes; h10am-10pm)

As well as top-end Chilean and Argentine clothing brands, this mall has a branch of department store Falabella and a cinema complex. There are also several Chilean and international outdoor-equipment stores to stock up on supplies for onward journeys. Catch a bus marked ‘Alto Las Condes’ outside the Escuela Militar metro station.

Parque AraucoMALL

(www.parquearauco.cl; Av Kennedy 5413, Las Condes; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun; mManquehue)

A huge range of local and international clothing stores make this the fashionista mall of choice. From Manquehue metro station, it’s a 1km walk (or a quick taxi ride) north along Rosario Norte.

AndesgearSPORTS & OUTDOORS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2245-7076; www.andesgear.cl; Helvecia 210, Barrio El Golf; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; mTobalaba)

Imported climbing and high-altitude camping gear for your journey to Chilean Patagonia, with several locations throughout the city.

ContrapuntoBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2-2639-1413; www.contrapunto.cl; Huérfanos 665, Centro; h10:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; mSanta Lucía)

This chain bookstore has a broad selection, though the English titles are limited.

Centro Artesanal Santa LucíaARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Carmen & Av O’Higgins, Centro; h10am-7pm; mSanta Lucía)

It’s a stretch to call this market’s mass-produced weavings and leather goods ‘crafts,’ but it’s certainly a good place to go for cheap souvenirs. Panpipes, silver jewelry and Andean-style sweaters are some of the products available. For the real stuff head to Los Dominicos.

Centro de Exposición de Arte IndígenaARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av O’Higgins 499, Centro; h10am-5:30pm Mon-Sat; mSanta Lucia)

Indigenous craftspeople sell a small selection of wares at these stalls next to the Terraza Neptuno entrance to Cerro Santa Lucía; goods include silver jewelry, postcards, instruments and Mapuche dictionaries.

8Information

DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

Violent crime is relatively rare in Santiago, which regularly ranks as the safest big city in Latin America. Pickpocketing and bag-snatching, however, remain a problem, and tourists are often targets.

A Keep your eyes open and your bags close to you around Plaza de Armas, Mercado Central, Cerro San Cristóbal and all bus stations.

A Be aware that organized groups of pickpockets sometimes target drinkers along Pío Nono in Bellavista.

A Barrio Brasil’s smaller streets can become dodgy after dark.

A Protests occasionally turn violent, so it’s advisable to avoid them unless you’re really part of the movement.

Police (Carabineros; %133)

Primera Comisaría Santiago (Main police station; %2-2922-3700; Santo Domingo 715, Centro; h24hr; mPlaza de Armas)

EMERGENCY

Ambulance	%131
Drugs hotline	%135
Fire	%132
Police Emergency	%133
Police Information	%139

INTERNET ACCESS & TELEPHONE

You can still find a few cybercafes in Centro and around the universities: prices are CH$500 to CH$1000 per hour. Many are part of a centro de llamados (public telephone center) where you can also make local and long-distance calls. Most cafes and hotels have free wi-fi for guests.

LAUNDRY

Many hotels and hostels offer laundry service; you can also drop off your clothes anywhere called ‘lavandería’ (expect to pay about CH$7000 per load). Note that self-service launderettes are uncommon in Chile.

Laundromat (Monjitas 507, Centro; per load CH$6900; h8am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; W; mBellas Artes)

MAPS

Tourist offices distribute an ever-changing collection of free (ie sponsored) maps of the Centro and Providencia. The searchable maps at Map City (www.mapcity.com) and EMOL (www.mapas.emol.com) are reliable online resources.

For trekking and mountaineering information visit Conaf (Corporación Nacional Forestal; %2-2663-0000; www.conaf.cl; Paseo Bulnes 265, Centro; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri; mLa Moneda). For detailed topographical maps, go to the Instituto Geográfico Militar (%2-2410-9300; www.igm.cl; Santa Isabel 1651, Centro; h8:30am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri; mToesca).

MEDICAL SERVICES

Consultations are cheap at Santiago’s public hospitals but long waits are common and English may not be spoken. For immediate medical or dental assistance, go to a clínica (private clinic), but expect hefty fees – insurance is practically a must.

Clínica Alemana (%2-2210-1111; www.alemana.cl; Av Vitacura 5951, Vitacura) One of the best – and most expensive – private hospitals in town. English- and German-speaking staff.

Clínica Las Condes (%2-2210-4000; www.clinicalascondes.cl; Lo Fontecilla 441, Las Condes) A recommended clinic in Las Condes for international-level care.

Clínica Universidad Católica (Red de Salud UC; %2-2354-3000; http://redsalud.uc.cl/ucchristus/Hospital/hospital-clinico; Marcoleta 350, Centro; mUniversidad Católica) A well-respected university hospital conveniently located in Santiago Centro.

Farmacia Salcobrand (https://salcobrand.cl; Av Portugal 174, Centro; h24hr; mUniversidad Católica) A 24-hour pharmacy.

Hospital de Urgencia Asistencia Pública (%2-2568-1100; www.huap.cl; Av Portugal 125, Centro; h24hr; mUniversidad Católica) Santiago’s main emergency room.

Hospital del Salvador (%2-2575-4000; www.hsalvador.cl; Av Salvador 364, Providencia; mSalvador) The nicest and best located of Santiago’s public (and thus, cheaper) hospitals.

MONEY

You’re never far from an ATM in Santiago. Supermarkets, pharmacies, gas stations and plain old street corners are all likely locations: look for the burgundy-and-white ‘Redbanc’ sign. Counterfeit currency does circulate in town; be especially wary of nonlicensed money changers.

Cambios Afex (www.afex.cl; Moneda 1140, Centro; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri; mLa Moneda) Reliable exchange office with branches around town.

POST

Correos Chile El Golf (MAP; www.correos.cl; Av Apoquindo 3297, Barrio El Golf; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mEl Golf)

Correos Chile Providencia (MAP; www.correos.cl; Av Providencia 1466, Providencia; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri; mManuel Montt)

Correos Chile Santiago Centro (MAP; %2-2956-0303; www.correos.cl; Catedral 989, Plaza de Armas, Centro; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; mPlaza de Armas)

FedEx (MAP; %800-363-030; www.fedex.com/cl_english/contact; Av Providencia 2519, Providencia; h10am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat; mTobalaba)

TOURIST INFORMATION

Municipal Tourist Office (MAP; www.santiagocapital.cl; Plaza de Armas s/n, Centro; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun; mPlaza de Armas) Well-meaning but under-resourced staff provide basic maps and information. There’s also a small gallery and a shop with Chilean products.

Municipal Tourist Office (MAP; www.santiagocapital.cl; Cerro Santa Lucía s/n, Centro; h9am-1:30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri; mSanta Lucia) Small tourist office on Cerro Santa Lucía.

Providencia Tourist Office (MAP; %2-2374-2743; http://turismo.providencia.cl; Av Providencia 2359, Providencia; h9am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; mLos Leones) Pamphlets, maps and information about Providencia and greater Santiago.

Sernatur (MAP; %2-2731-8336; www.chile.travel; Av Providencia 1550, Providencia; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat; W; mManuel Montt) Gives out maps, brochures and advice; has free wi-fi.

TRAVEL AGENCIES

Chilean Travel Service (CTS; %2-2251-0400; www.chileantravelservices.com; Antonio Bellet 77, Oficina 101, Providencia; mPedro de Valdivia) has well-informed multilingual staff and can organize accommodations and tours all over Chile through your local travel agency.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

Chile’s main air hub for both national and domestic flights is Aeropuerto Internacional Arturo Merino Benítez (Santiago International Airport, SCL; %2-2690-1796; www.nuevopudahuel.cl; Pudahuel). It’s 16km west of central Santiago.

LATAM Airlines (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com) and Aerolíneas Argentinas (%800-610-200; www.aerolineas.com.ar) run regular domestic and regional services from here, as do low-cost Chilean carriers Sky Airline (www.skyairline.com) and JetSmart (www.jetsmart.com). Low-cost Brazilian carrier Gol (www.voegol.com.br) has services to major Brazilian cities, including São Paulo, Salvador and Rio. Other international airlines that fly to Chile have offices or representatives in Santiago.

BUS

A bewildering number of bus companies connect Santiago to the rest of Chile, Argentina and Peru. To add to the confusion, services leave from four different terminals and ticket prices fluctuate wildly at busy times of year, and often double for cama (sleeper) services. The following sample of clásico or semi-cama (standard) fares (approximate only) and journey times are for major destinations that are served by a variety of companies. For fares to smaller destinations, see the listings under each terminal. Discounts often apply; shop around either in person at the terminals or on websites like Recorrido (www.recorrido.cl), a foreigner-friendly ticketing site that compares prices for more than 40 bus companies and allows you to purchase via PayPal.

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Antofagasta	33,000	19
Arica	44,000	28
Buenos Aires (Argentina)	66,000	24
Chillán	7900	5
Concepción	8000	6½
Copiapó	20,000	11
Iquique	40,000	25
La Serena	11,000	6
Los Andes	2500	1½
Mendoza (Argentina)	29,000	8
Osorno	21,800	11
Pichilemu	7000	4
Pucón	18,800	10
Puerto Montt	22,000	12
San Pedro de Atacama	40,600	23
Santa Cruz	6000	3½
Talca	5000	3½
Temuco	16,000	8
Valdivia	19,000	10
Valparaíso	4000	2
Viña del Mar	4000	2

Terminal de Buses Alameda

Turbus (%600-660-6600; www.turbus.cl) and Pullman Bus (%600-320-3200; www.pullman.cl) operate from this terminal (cnr Av O’Higgins & Jotabeche, Barrio Estación Central; mUniversidad de Santiago), next door to Terminal de Buses Sur. The two companies run comfortable, punctual services to destinations all over Chile, including every 15 minutes to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar. Pullman del Sur (%2-2776-2424; www.pdelsur.cl; Terminal de Buses Alameda, Barrio Estación Central; mUniversidad de Santiago) runs regular buses to cities in the O’Higgins and Maule regions of Chile, including Rancagua, Pichilemu and Talca.

Terminal de Buses Sur

Santiago’s largest terminal (Av O’Higgins 3850, Barrio Estación Central; mUniversidad de Santiago) is also known as Terminal Santiago, and is usually manically busy. The companies operating from the large, semicovered ticket area mainly serve destinations south of Santiago, including the central coast, the Lakes District and Chiloé. A few companies also operate northbound buses and international services to nearly every major city in South America up to Colombia and across to Brazil.

Bus Norte (%600-401-5151; www.busnortechile.cl) runs excellent-value services to Puerto Montt and Valparaíso. The modern, well-appointed buses operated by Línea Azul (www.buseslineaazul.cl/destinos.php) connect Santiago with southern destinations, as do JAC (%2-2822-7989; www.jac.cl), Cruz del Sur (%2-2682-5038; www.busescruzdelsur.cl) and Andimar (%2-2779-4801; www.andimar.cl).

Buses Nilahué (%2-2776-1139; www.busesnilahue.cl) goes to Cobquecura (CH$10,000, seven hours, once daily), Termas de Chillán (CH$14,000, seven hours, once daily), Santa Cruz (CH$5000, three hours, hourly) and Pichilemu (CH$7000, four hours, hourly). Condor (%2-2822-7528; www.condorbus.cl) goes to Concón and Quintero (CH$5000, 2½ hours, two hourly) and to major southern cities.

International tickets are sold from booths inside the terminal. Cata Internacional (%2-2779-3660; www.catainternacional.com; Terminal de Buses Sur, Barrio Estación Central; mUniversidad de Santiago) has six daily services to Mendoza and one to Buenos Aires. El Rápido (www.elrapidoint.com.ar) has similar but slightly cheaper services, as does Tas Choapa (%2-2822-7561; www.taschoapa.cl).

Terminal Los Heroes

Also known as Terrapuerto, this small but central terminal (MAP; %2-2420-0099; Tucapel Jiménez 21, Centro; mLos Héroes) is the base for a handful of companies, mostly servicing Los Andes and northern destinations. Ahumada (MAP; www.busesahumada.cl) goes three times daily to Mendoza; some services continue to Buenos Aires.

Terminal San Borja

This terminal (MAP; San Borja 184, Barrio Estación Central; mEstación Central) is located behind Estación Central, with buses to the beaches of the central coast and destinations north of Santiago. A few companies also operate southbound buses here. Ticket booths are on the 2nd floor, divided by region. The most useful services from here are Libac (MAP; %2-2778-7071; www.buseslibac.cl; Terminal San Borja, Barrio Estación Central; mEstación Central) and Pullman Bus. Bus services to Pomaire also leave from here.

Terminal Pajaritos

Buses from Santiago to the airport and Valparaíso and Viña call in at this small, newly renovated terminal (Pajaritos Bus Station; General Bonilla 5600; mPajaritos). It’s on metro Línea 1, so by getting on buses here you avoid downtown traffic.

CAR

Intense rush-hour traffic and high parking fees mean there’s little point hiring a car to use in Santiago. However, having your own wheels is invaluable for visiting the Casablanca Valley and places of natural beauty like Cerro la Campana and the Cajón del Maipo. Those planning to travel mostly in rural Chile may consider hiring a camper van from Soul Vans (%cell 9-5417-3743; www.soulvans.com; Eduardo Castillo Velasco 3100, Ñuñoa; camper vans from CH$39,000; h9am-1pm; mÑuñoa), which allows one-way rentals and has additional offices in Puerto Montt and Punta Arenas.

Chilean car-rental companies tend to be cheaper than big international ones, but note that they often have sky-high deductibles. Most rental companies have their own roadside assistance; alternatively, the Automóvil Club de Chile (%600-450-6000; www.automovilclub.cl; Av Andrés Bello 1863, Providencia; mPedro de Valdivia) provides reciprocal assistance to members of the American Automobile Association and some other associations, but you may need to stop by the office to register. Some of the companies listed here also have airport offices at Pudahuel.

Chilean Rent A Car (%2-2963-8760; www.chileanrentacar.cl; Bellavista 0183, Barrio Bellavista; rentals per day from CH$20,000; h8am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-7pm Sat & Sun; mBaquedano)

Europcar (%2-2598-3200; www.europcar.cl; Av Francisco Bilbao 1439, Providencia; cars from CH$33,000; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-4pm Sat & Sun; mInes de Suárez)

First Rent a Car (%2-2225-6328; www.first.cl; Rancagua 0514, Providencia; cars from CH$33,000; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat; mParque Bustamente)

Hertz (%2-2360-8617; www.hertz.cl; Av Andrés Bello 1469, Providencia; cars from CH$38,000; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; mManuel Montt)

Piamonte (%2-2751-0200; www.piamonte.cl; Irarrázaval 3400, Ñuñoa; cars from CH$22,000; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat; mÑuñoa)

United (%2-2963-8760; www.united-chile.com; Curricó 360, Centro; rentals per day from CH$20,000; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun; mUniversidad Católica)

TRAIN

Chile’s limited train system, TrenCentral (EFE Ticket Office; %2-2585-5000; www.trencentral.cl; htickets 7:15am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-7pm Sat), operates out of Estación Central (Av O’Higgins 3170, Barrio Estación Central). Train travel is generally slower and more expensive than going by bus, but wagons are well maintained and services are generally punctual. Normal trains run south to Chillán (CH$8100, five hours, twice daily), stopping along the way in Rancagua, Curicó and Talca. Special tourist trains head to the Colchagua Valley two Saturdays each month (CH$60,000).

8Getting Around

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Two cheap, efficient bus services connect the airport with the city center: Buses Centropuerto (MAP; %2-2601-9883; www.centropuerto.cl; 1-way/round-trip CH$1700/3000; h5:55am-11:30pm, departure every 15min) and Turbus Aeropuerto (%600-660-6600; www.turbus.cl; 1-way/round-trip CH$1700/2800; h5am-1am, departures every 15min; mUniversidad de Santiago). Both leave from right outside the arrivals hall, and you can buy tickets on board. The total trip takes about 40 minutes. All buses stop at metro station Pajaritos on Línea 1 – you avoid downtown traffic by transferring to the metro here.

A pushy mafia of ‘official’ taxi drivers tout their services in the arrivals hall. Although the ride to the city center should cost around CH$18,000, drivers may try to charge much more. A simpler bet is to approach the desk of Transvip (%2-2677-3000; www.transvip.cl; 1-way from CH$7000), which offers shared shuttles (from CH$7000) to the Centro. Trips to Providencia and Las Condes cost slightly more.

BICYCLE

In general, Santiago is flat and compact enough to get around by bike, and the climate is ideal for it. There is an ever-increasing network of ciclovías (bike lanes) – and more and more Santiaguinos are cycling to work. Check out the interactive map of bike paths and cyclist-friendly facilities at Bicimapa (www.bicimapa.cl).

The city’s main bike-share program is Bike Santiago (%600-750-5600; www.bikesantiago.cl). Ask in any of its five hubs – including La Moneda, Costanera Center and Plaza de Armas – about the Tourist Plan, which lets you ride for one day (CH$5000) or three days (CH$10,000). The orange bikes are located in all central neighborhoods except Las Condes (which, annoyingly, runs a separate bike-share program).

A linchpin of the local cyclist movement is Movimiento Furiosos Ciclistas, which organizes a Critical Mass–style bike rally the first Tuesday of each month.

BUS

Transantiago buses are a cheap and convenient way of getting around town, especially when the metro shuts down at night. Green-and-white buses operate in central Santiago or connect two areas of town. Each suburb has its own color-coded local buses and an identifying letter that precedes route numbers (eg routes in Las Condes and Vitacura start with a C and vehicles are painted orange). Buses generally follow major roads or avenues; stops are spaced far apart and tend to coincide with metro stations. There are route maps at many stops and consulting them (or asking bus drivers) is usually more reliable than asking locals.

On Sundays, take advantage of the Circuito Cultural de Transantiago (www.transantiago.cl; CH$600; h10am-6:30pm Sun), a bus loop tour that passes by the city’s main attractions (museums, cultural centers) starting at Plaza Italia. You use your Bip! card to pay for one regular bus fare, and the driver will give you a bracelet that allows you to board the circuit’s buses as many times as you like. The buses are clearly marked ‘Circuito Cultural.’

Transantiago

In 2006 sleek extra-long buses replaced the city’s many competing private services when the bus and metro were united as Transantiago (%800-730-073; www.transantiago.cl; single ride from CH$610), a government-run public-transportation system that’s quick, cheap and efficient for getting around central Santiago. The Transantiago website has downloadable route maps and a point-to-point journey planner.

You’ll need a tarjeta Bip! (a contact-free card you wave over sensors). You pay a nonrefundable CH$1550 for a card, and then ‘charge’ it with as much money as you want. Two people can share a card, and they also work on the metro. Transantiago charges CH$640 during most of the day, though the fare is CH$610 early in the morning and late at night. One fare allows you two hours in the system, including multiple transfers.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

To drive on any of the expressways within Santiago proper, your car must have an electronic sensor known as a TAG in the windshield; all rental cars have them. On-street parking is banned in some parts of central Santiago and metered (often by a person) in others; costs range from CH$1000 to CH$3000 per hour, depending on the area. If you’re not paying a meter, you’re expected to pay a similar fee to the ‘parking attendant.’ For detailed information on driving and parking, read the English-language section at Car Rental in Chile (www.mietwagen-in-chile.de); it will also rent you a vehicle.

METRO

The city’s ever-expanding metro (www.metro.cl; per ride from CH$610; h6am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-11pm Sun) is a clean and efficient way of getting about. Services on its six interlinking lines are frequent, but often painfully crowded. A seventh line is slated to open in late 2018. To get on the trains, head underground. You can use your Bip! card or purchase a one-way fare. Pass through the turnstiles and head for your line. It’s a fine way to get around during the day, but during the morning and evening rush, you may prefer to walk.

TAXI

Santiago has abundant metered taxis, all black with yellow roofs. Flagfall costs CH$300, then it’s CH$150 per 200m (or minute of waiting time). For longer rides – from the city center out to the airport, for example – you can sometimes negotiate flat fares. It’s generally safe to hail cabs in the street, though hotels and restaurants will call you one, too. Most Santiago taxi drivers are honest, courteous and helpful, but a few will take roundabout routes, so try to know where you’re going. Taxis colectivos are black with roof signs indicating routes (you’ll share the ride, which generally costs CH$1500 to CH$2000).

AROUND SANTIAGO

Where else in the world can you go skiing, white-water rafting, wine tasting and bathing in thermal baths all within a two-hour radius of a bustling city of seven million people? This is what makes greater Santiago such an attractive launchpad for your Chilean adventures.

Maipo Valley Wineries

When you’ve had your fill of Santiago’s museums and plazas, head south of the city center to check out the gorgeous vineyards and mass-production wine operations of the Maipo Valley. Big-bodied reds, featuring varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Carmenere and Syrah – many that have notes of eucalyptus or mint – are what the valley is all about. You can go it alone as many wineries are within 1½ hours of the city center on public transportation. But if you’d like to hit the wine circuit with a knowledgeable guide, try the specialized tours at Uncorked Wine Tours: an English-speaking guide will take you to three wineries, and a lovely lunch is included. Also recommended is the winery bike tour with La Bicicleta Verde. Enotour is another curated wine-tour outfit. Most wine tours require advance reservations.

2Activities

oViña Santa RitaWINE

(%2-2362-2520; www.santarita.com; Camino Padre Hurtado 0695, Alto Jahuel; tours CH$12,000-40,000; htours 10am-5pm Tue-Sun)

Famous for the premium Casa Real Cabernet, Santa Rita offers bike and wine trips – through Turistik – as well as picnics, tastings and tours of its stunning winery. There’s also a jaw-dropping pre-Columbian art collection on display at the on-site Museo Andino, with pottery, textiles and gold Incan jewelry.

To get here, take the Santiago metro to Las Mercedes station, where you can catch bus MB81 toward Alto Jahuel and the vineyard entrance.

Viña UndurragaWINE

(%2-2372-2850; www.undurraga.cl; Camino a Melipilla, Km34, Talagante; tours from CH$12,000; htours at 10:15am, noon & 3:30pm daily)

The subterranean bodegas at Undurraga date from 1885. Come for tours or to try wines by the glass.

Regular public buses depart for Talagante from Santiago’s Terminal San Borja, and you can ask the conductor to drop you at the vineyard entrance.

Viña Cousiño MaculWINE

(%2-2351-4100; www.cousinomacul.com; Av Quilín 7100, Peñalolen; tours CH$14,000-24,000; htours (in English) 11am, 12:15pm, 3pm & 4:15pm Mon-Fri, 11am & 12:15pm Sat)

A historic winery set in Santiago’s urban sprawl. Most of the vineyards are now at Buin, but tours take in the production process and underground bodega, built in 1872. La Bicicleta Verde runs frequent bike and wine tours here.

From Santiago, bus 418, which passes by Costanera Center and the Tobalaba metro station, will take you all the way to the intersection of Tobalaba and Av Quilín, from where you’ll only need to walk five minutes west to the winery.

Viña De MartinoWINE

(%2-2577-8037; www.demartino.cl; Manuel Rodríguez 229, Isla de Maipo; tastings from CH$14,000, tours from CH$17,500; h9am-1:30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-1pm Sat)

Reserve ahead for personalized tours and tastings in a Tuscan-style manor, including one where you can blend your own wine. Note: you will need a car to visit this winery.

Viña AquitaniaWINE

(%2-2791-4500; www.aquitania.cl; Av Consistorial 5090, Peñalolén; tours CH$13,000-22,000; hby appointment only 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)

Set at the foot of the Andes is one of Santiago’s most interesting wineries. Aquitania works with tiny quantities and sky-high quality.

From Santiago’s Grecia metro station (Línea 4), take bus D07 south and get off at the intersection of Av Los Presidentes and Consistorial (you need a Bip! card). Aquitania is 150m south. Note that Viña Cousiño Macul is located only 2km away.

Viña Concha y ToroWINE

(%2-2476-5269; www.conchaytoro.com; Virginia Subercaseaux 210, Pirque; standard tours CH$14,000; h10am-5pm)

To see winemaking on a vast scale, do one of the mass-market tours at Viña Concha y Toro, Latin America’s largest wine producer.

To get here by public transportation take the Santiago metro to the Las Mercedes station, exit by the sign ‘Concha y Toro Oriente’ and catch one of Concha y Toro’s minibuses (CH$2000, every 30 minutes).

8Getting There & Away

If you plan on visiting two or more wineries, you’re better off renting a car; however, most vineyards are reachable by public transportation from Santiago.

Pomaire

In this small, rustic country village 68km southwest of Santiago, skilled potters make beautifully simple brown and black earthenware ceramics and sell them for incredibly cheap prices (a homemade coffee mug goes for CH$1000). A trip here makes a pleasant half-day out, especially as the town is also celebrated for its traditional Chilean food.

Note that while Pomaire is packed with day-trippers on weekends, the town is practically deserted on Monday, when the potters have a day off.

Cheerful restaurant La Fuente de mi Tierra (%cell 9-8475-3494; www.lafuentedemitierra.cl; Roberto Bravo 49; mains CH$4000-9000; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun) offers cheap traditional food in a livelier atmosphere than elsewhere in town. The walls are covered in photography and local clay art, and the food is sure to fill.

Buses Bahía Azul (www.bahiaazul.cl) runs three direct buses between Santiago’s Terminal San Borja and Pomaire on Saturdays and Sundays (CH$1800, 45 minutes). Otherwise, take one of the regular services to Melipilla (CH$1500, one hour, four hourly) with Ruta Bus 78 (www.rutabus78.cl) and get off at the Pomaire cruce (crossroads), where colectivos and minibuses take you into town (CH$500).

Cajón del Maipo

Rich greenery lines the steep, rocky walls of this stunning gorge of the Río Maipo. Starting only 25km southeast of Santiago, it’s popular on weekends with Santiaguinos, who come here to camp, hike, climb, cycle, raft and ski. Increasingly trendy restaurants, new microbreweries and a big winery mean that overindulgence is also on the menu.

November to March is peak rafting season as glacier meltwater brings Class III or IV rapids to the Río Maipo; ski bums and bunnies flock here June to September; and hiking, horseback riding and lunching are popular year-round.

Plans for a hydroelectric station here could have serious consequences for the region’s ecosystem. So take advantage of this pristine natural playground; it’s an easy getaway from the capital city by car or public transportation.

2Activities

oRutavertical RaftingRAFTING

(%cell 9-9435-3143; www.rutavertical.cl; Camino al Volcán 19635, San José De Maipo; trips CH$19,000; hdaily departures at 11am, 2pm & 4:30pm)

One-hour rafting trips led by enthusiastic multilingual guides descend Class III or IV rapids, taking in some lovely gorges before ending up back in San José de Maipo. Allot about 2½ hours in total for the briefing, outfitting and drive upriver to the starting point. Helmets, wetsuits and lifejackets are provided, and there are lockers to store your belongings.

The river is made up of a series of mostly Class III rapids with very few calm areas – indeed, rafters are sometimes tossed into the water. Still, it’s less hazardous than when the first kayakers descended in the 1980s and found themselves facing automatic weapons as they passed the grounds of General Pinochet’s estate at El Melocotón (the narrow bedrock chute here, one of the river’s more entertaining rapids, is now known as ‘El Pinocho,’ the ex-dictator’s nickname).

Vizcachas MultiespacioADVENTURE SPORTS

(Ex Geoaventura; %cell 9-6209-9130; www.facebook.com/multiespaciolasvizcachas; Camino a San José del Maipo 07820, Puente Alto; ziplining CH$15,000, bungee jumping CH$25,000, paragliding CH$40,000; h10am-6pm)

Just before you enter Cajón del Maipo, this adventure center has bungee jumps, paragliding, ziplining, a rock wall, paintball and more.

4Sleeping

Los BaqueanosTENTED CAMP$$$

(%cell 9-9618-7066; www.losbaqueanos.cl; Camino al Volcán 4926, El Canelo; package incl meals & horseback riding per person from CH$70,000; W)

Guests here sleep in luxurious dome-shaped tents heated by solar power and comfortably furnished with cozy cots, ergonomic chairs and wi-fi access. Gourmet breakfasts and meals are prepared by the chef, while beautiful Chilean horses wait on the sidelines to take travelers on day excursions into the Cajón del Maipo.

Ask about the condition of the dirt road up to Los Baqueanos if you plan to drive yourself.

8Getting There & Away

Two roads wind up Cajón del Maipo on either side of the river and join at El Melocotón, 7km before San Alfonso. The G-421 on the southern side goes through Pirque, while the G-25 runs along the north side past San José de Maipo and San Alfonso to Baños Morales and the Monumento Natural el Morado. The 100km drive from central Santiago to Baños Morales takes about two hours and is doable in a regular car. Count on another 20 minutes to reach Termas Valle de Colina; depending on the state of the last stretch of road, you may need a 4WD.

There is no public transportation all the way to Termas Valle de Colina. However, private vans run by Tur Maipo (MAP; www.turmaipo.cl; return trip to Baños Morales CH$8400) go to Baños Morales from outside Santiago’s Baquedano metro station, usually on Saturdays and Sundays. Metrobus MB-72 connects San Alfonso and San José de Maipo with Santiago’s Bellavista la Florida metro station every 30 minutes from 7am to 9pm (CH$1100).

Pirque

Although it’s only just outside Santiago, Pirque has a very small-town feel to it with scenic vineyard-lined roads, a gorgeous nature reserve and empanada stands aplenty. There’s nothing small-scale or low-key about its main attraction, however: Viña Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest and most industrial winery. The main road leads east from Concha y Toro up the south side of Cajón del Maipo toward San Alfonso. About 3km along it is a string of restaurants, including La Vaquita Echá.

A mix of Andean forest and scrubland make up Reserva Nacional Río Clarillo (www.conaf.cl/parques/reserva-nacional-rio-clarillo; Camino a Reserva Nacional Río Clarillo s/n, Pirque; adult/child CH$6000/3000; h8:30am-6pm), a hilly, 100-sq-km nature reserve in a scenic tributary canyon of the Cajón del Maipo, 18km southeast of Pirque. It’s home to abundant bird species, foxes and rodents, and the endangered Chilean iguana.

Two short, clearly labeled trails start near the Conaf rangers office, 300m after the entrance: Quebrada Jorquera takes about half an hour; Aliwen Mahuida takes 1½ hours. The rangers give advice on longer hikes along the river, but plan on starting early as camping is not allowed here. There are several picnic areas with tables and barbecue pits for your midday break.

4Sleeping & Eating

oLa Calma de RitaGUESTHOUSE$$

(%cell 9-7217-3978; www.lacalmaderita.cl; Camino A Santa Rita 2672; r US$75-130; aWs)

Sleep inside a jumbo-sized wine barrel or aboard a converted carriage at this delightfully quirky rural retreat. All rooms are centered around a flower-filled garden with hammocks, a pool, and a wine spa where you can nourish both your pores and your palate. The on-site restaurant is packed with vintage memorabilia and there’s a shop with local cheeses, jams and artisan beers.

La Vaquita EcháCHILEAN$$

(www.lavaquitaecha.cl; Ramón Subercaseaux 3355; mains CH$5200-15,000; h11am-9pm)

The long-running local favorite, La Vaquita Echá is rightly famed for its grill – steaks, ribs, fish and even wild boar all sizzle over the coals.

8Getting There & Away

To get to Pirque, take the Santiago metro to Plaza de Puente Alto, the end of Línea 4. Then catch a minibus with a ‘Pirque’ label in the window. Departures are frequent and the fare is around CH$500. Note that you’ll need a car to visit nearby wineries or nature reserves, though you could also taxi around.

San Alfonso & Cascada de las Animas

Halfway up Cajón del Maipo a small cluster of homes and businesses make up San Alfonso. It’s the location of the beautiful private nature reserve Santuario de la Naturaleza Cascada de las Animas, which is set up like a natural, outdoorsy theme park.

2Activities

Cascada de las AnimasOUTDOORS

(%2-2861-1303; www.cascadadelasanimas.cl; Camino al Volcan 31087)

Organized activities are the only way to visit this private nature reserve, which takes its name from a stunning waterfall reached by the shortest walk offered (CH$7000); there are also guided half-day hikes into the hills (CH$12,000) and rafting trips (CH$18,000). Horseback riding is the real specialty, however – indeed, the reserve is also a working ranch.

Weather permitting, it offers two-hour rides (CH$25,000) and all-day trips (CH$50,000 including asado – barbecue – lunch). Book in advance.

4Sleeping & Eating

oCascada de las AnimasRESORT$$$

(%2-2861-1303; www.cascadadelasanimas.cl; Camino al Volcan 31087; lodge r CH$100,000, cabins for 3/6/8 people CH$80,000/110,000/150,000, 5-person domes CH$130,000, campsites per person from CH$10,000; pWs)

If you’re into peace and quiet, spend the night here in one of the bungalow suites at the Cascada Lodge. The rustic-chic design features organic wood and stone fixtures, skylights, mosaic tilework and king-sized beds imported from Italy.

You can choose instead to stay in one of the wood cabins with log fires and well-equipped kitchens. There are also five-person lofted domes, two-person riverside bungalows or smaller guest rooms to fit any budget. Alternatively, pitch your tent in the shady campsite.

Santuario del RíoLODGE$$$

(%2-2790-6900; www.santuariodelrio.cl; Camino al Volcán 37659; d/q CH$130,000/220,000; paWs)

Just outside San Alfonso, this tranquil lodge specializes in corporate retreats, but has a very nice selection of wood and adobe rooms and cabins that feature relaxing views over the river, hardwood bed frames and vaulted wood ceilings. There’s a spa, hot tub and pool, plus the on-site restaurant is excellent.

Pizzería y Cervecería JauríaPIZZA$$

(www.cervezajauria.cl; Bernardo O´Higgins 18; pizzas CH$9000; h5pm-midnight Fri, 1:30pm-1am Sat, 1:30pm to 8pm Sun)

Craving beer and pizza? This new brewpub combines creative pizzas (such as prosciutto, grilled pear and sun-dried tomatoe) with home-brewed IPAs, brown ales and stouts. Kick back and relax on the patio under the soft glow of tiki torches.

8Getting There & Away

Cascada de las Animas runs private van transportation to and from Santiago (for one/two people round-trip CH$70,000/90,000). Much cheaper is Metrobus MB-72, which connects San Alfonso and San José de Maipo with Santiago’s Bellavista la Florida metro station every 30 minutes from 7am to 9pm (CH$1100).

Baños Morales & Monumento Natural El Morado

A newly paved stretch of the G-25 continues uphill from San Alfonso to the small village of Baños Morales. There’s excellent hiking and horseback riding here, as well as relaxing hot springs. Serious outdoor enthusiasts can continue on for high-Andean adventures, mountain climbing and more.

At Baños Morales is the entrance to Monumento Natural El Morado (www.conaf.cl/parques/monumento-natural-el-morado; adult/child CH$5000/2500; hmust enter 8:30am-1pm & leave by 6pm Oct-Apr, enter 8:30am-12:30pm & leave by 5:30pm May-Sep), a small national park. From the banks of sparkling Laguna El Morado are fabulous views of Glacier San Francisco and the 5000m summit of Cerro El Morado. It takes about two hours to reach the lake on the well-marked 6km trail from the Conaf post.

In summer motivated hikers can continue to the base of Glaciar San Francisco (six hours round-trip from the Conaf post), on the lower slopes of the mountain.

Ask a Conaf ranger about the four-hour hike to Valle de las Arenas, just outside the park. It’s an epic trail, though not well signposted.

The murky hot springs of Balenario Termal Baños Murales (CH$5000; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Dec, 8am-8pm daily Jan-Mar) offer a curative dip after a day of hiking, though they’re not quite as picturesque as the pools further up in Valle de Colina.

Private buses from Tur Maipo leave from outside Santiago’s Baquedano metro station at 7:30am for Baños Morales daily January and February or weekends the rest of the year.

Termas Valle de Colina

About 16km after the turnoff to Baños Morales, the G-25 (now a basic dirt track best negotiated in a 4WD) reaches the thermal springs of Termas Valle de Colina (%2-2985-2609; www.termasvalledecolina.com; entrance incl camping adult/child CH$8000/4000), where hot natural pools offer a privileged view over the valley. There’s a well-organized camping ground, but be sure to bring plenty of food and supplies.

The administration can put you in touch with local huasos (cowboys) who offer short horseback-riding expeditions during the summer months (December to March).

For a real adventure, join a guided motorcycle tour of the region through Enduro Trip (%cell 9-8764-2776; www.endurotrip.com; tours per person CH$120,000). Leaving from Santiago at 9am, these energetic guides run four standard circuits, including one that goes to Baños Morales, Termas de Colina and Glaciar El Morado. In addition to the ride itself and some excellent wildlife-viewing, you’ll stop along the way to try regional treats from empanadas to homemade bread.

There is no public transportation to Termas Valle de Colina, which is about 16km after the turnoff to Baños Morales on the G-25.

Tres Valles

Santiago’s four most popular ski centers – Farellones/El Colorado, La Parva and Valle Nevado – are clustered in three valleys, hence their collective name, Tres Valles. Although they’re only 30km to 40km northeast of Santiago, the traffic-clogged road up can be slow going. All prices given here are for weekends and high season (usually early July to mid-August). Outside that time, there are hefty midweek discounts on both ski passes and hotels. Well-marked off-piste runs connect the three valleys. The predominance of drag lifts means that lines get long during the winter holidays, but otherwise crowds here are bearable. Ask about combination tickets if you’re planning on skiing at multiple resorts.

2Activities

Valle NevadoSKIING

(%2-2477-7705; www.vallenevado.com; Camino a Valle Nevado s/n; day pass adult/child CH$49,500/37,500; hlifts 9am-5pm)

Modeled on European setups, Valle Nevado boasts almost 30 sq km hectares of skiable terrain – the largest in South America. It’s also the best-maintained of Santiago’s resorts and has the most challenging runs. A variety of beginner runs make it good for kids too.

Thirteen chairlifts or surface lifts – and a kick-ass eight-person gondola – take you to high-altitude start points, which range from 2860m to 3670m. Adrenaline levels also run high here: there’s a snow park, good off-piste action and heli-skiing.

In summer (December to April), the Mirador chairlift (round-trip CH$19,000), transporting hikers and picnic-toting families to a 3300m peak, is open daily. Check the website for more on horseback-riding excursions, mountaineering, guided trekking, children’s activities and lunch with panoramic views at the mountaintop restaurant.

The resort is 12km from Farellones.

La ParvaSKIING

(www.laparva.cl; Los Clonquis s/n; day pass adult/child CH$46,500/31,500; hlifts 8am-5pm)

The most exclusive of Santiago’s ski resorts, La Parva is definitely oriented toward posh families rather than the powder-and-party pack. Private cottages and condos make up ski base Villa La Parva, from where 15 lifts take you to its 48 runs, the highest of which starts at 3574m above sea level.

Snow permitting, there’s plenty of off-piste skiing here too. The ski between La Parva and Valle Nevado or El Colorado is also a favorite among more experienced skiers.

FarellonesSKIING

(www.parquesdefarellones.cl; Camino a Farellones s/n; day pass CH$20,000; hlifts 9am-5pm)

Farellones is Chile’s first ski resort. At about 2500m, it’s lower than its sister property of El Colorado, and its handful of runs tend to attract mainly beginner skiers, as well as tubing fans. Other activities on offer include ziplines, fat bikes, tobogganing and snowshoeing.

El ColoradoSKIING

(www.elcolorado.cl; El Colorado s/n; day ski pass adult/child CH$49,000/37,000; hlifts 9am-5pm)

The interconnected Farellones and El Colorado have a combined 101 runs ranging from beginner to expert. The highest of El Colorado’s 19 lifts takes you 3333m above sea level.

DON’T MISS

SKI CENTERS

Several of Chile’s best ski resorts are within day-tripping (or two-day tripping) distance from Santiago. Aim to go midweek, if you can: snow-happy Santiaguinos crowd both the pistes and the roads up to the resorts on weekends.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Valle NevadoLUXURY HOTEL$$$

(www.vallenevado.com; Camino a Valle Nevado s/n; d per person incl breakfast, lunch & dinner from US$419; iWs)

You can ski right onto your balcony here. The best-appointed option in the Tres Valles, it has a heated outdoor pool, spa, and piano bar with a huge open fire. Dinner at the hotel’s La Fourchette restaurant goes some way to offsetting the rates (which also include daily lift passes).

Hotel Tres PuntasHOTEL$$$

(www.vallenevado.com; Camino a Valle Nevado s/n; d per person incl breakfast & dinner US$219; iW)

This ‘budget’ option at Valle Nevado skimps on luxury but not on prices. There’s a mix of regular and dorm-style rooms, all of which are cramped but functional. The price also includes daily lift passes.

La FourchetteINTERNATIONAL$$$

(www.vallenevado.com; Hotel Valle Nevado; mains CH$15,000-22,000; h7-10am & 7-11pm)

The most distinguished of Valle Nevado’s six restaurants, serving Mediterranean cuisine.

8Getting There & Away

There is no public transportation to the Tres Valles. KL Adventure (%2-2217-9101; www.kladventure.com; Augo Mira Fernández 14248, Las Condes, Santiago; round-trip to Tres Valles CH$35,750, incl hotel pickup CH$50,000) and SkiTotal (%2-2246-0156; www.skitotal.cl; Av Apoquindo 4900, Local 39-42, Las Condes, Santiago; round-trip CH$16,000-18,000) both run daily shuttles to the ski centers in season. The latter is conveniently located near the Escuela Militar metro station in the Las Condes neighborhood of Santiago.