SOUTHERN HEARTLAND

South of Santiago, squeezed between the Andes and the coastal cordillera, the central valley is Chile’s fruit bowl. With a Mediterranean climate and endless orchards and vineyards, this region produces most of Chile’s wine. The Andes in this sector are spectacular, with deciduous beech forests climbing their slopes and broad gravel-bedded rivers descending into the valley. Along the coast are laid-back surf towns, broad vistas and never-ending beaches.

History

After 7000 relatively undisturbed years, central Chile’s Mapuche communities were invaded twice in quick succession, first by the Inka and then by the Spanish. Earthquakes and constant Mapuche sieges meant that early Spanish colonial cities floundered almost as often as they were founded. Eventually the Mapuche retreated south of the Río Biobío, and colonial central Chile grew, becoming a linchpin in the struggle for independence. Political change gave way to economic growth: massive irrigation projects transformed the central valleys into fertile agricultural land, and major natural resources were discovered and exploited: coal mines near Concepción, copper at Rancagua. The area was a focus of repression during the dictatorship, and since the return to democracy it has been the backdrop for vociferous strikes by students and workers.

The 8.8-magnitude earthquake that rocked Chile in February 2010 was particularly devastating to this region. In addition to the countless houses and offices that were destroyed in Curicó, Concepción and Chillán, historic landmarks like Talca’s Villa Cultural Huilquilemu were so badly damaged that they may never reopen. While you’ll see a fair few cracks in historic buildings, businesses are back and running.

8Getting There & Around

The comfortable and easily accessible TrenCentral train line connects Santiago to Chillán, stopping at all major towns and cities along the way. The prices are cheaper, and departures more frequent, through the various bus lines that serve the region.

From a practical point of view, a rental car is a must for visiting wineries and far-flung national parks. It’s possible to take public transportation to some destinations, though service is rarely direct – travelers should to be prepared to walk a few kilometers from where the bus drops off. Outside major cities, you may be able to catch a ride by hitchhiking.

Colchagua Valley

Protected by mountains on all sides, this sun-scorched parcel of vines and orchards produces Chile’s best red wines. Production started here shortly after the conquest in the mid-16th century with the introduction of vineyards by Jesuit missionaries. The mining boom of the late 19th century brought wealth and noble grapes of French origin, including Carmenere, which was rediscovered here in the 1990s after disappearing in Europe. It’s now Chile’s signature grape.

The town of Santa Cruz has a few good hotels and a picturesque plaza, and serves as your central departure point. But the real encanto (charm) here is heading to the countryside to learn about wine, visit with eccentric vintners and experience the lyrical pull of wine country.

2Activities

oTorreón de ParedesWINE

(%cell 9-9225-3991; www.torreon.cl; Las Nieves s/n, Rengo; tastings from CH$10,000, tours from CH$18,000; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, tours by reservation) S

This gorgeous winery is named after the 300-year-old adobe tower at its heart (which was reconstructed after the 2010 earthquake). It’s just a 15-minute drive from the Casa Silva vineyard. Almost all of its elegant wines are made for export, and the winemaker often participates in tastings to share his thoughts.

oViña Casa SilvaWINE

(%72-291-3117; www.casasilva.cl; Hijuela Norte s/n, San Fernando; tastings by the glass CH$1500-6000, tours from CH$16,000; h10am-6:30pm)

One of the country’s oldest wineries, Casa Silva features insightful tours and an excellent restaurant set alongside a polo pitch. You can taste rare-in-Chile grapes here such as Viognier and Sauvignon Gris.

oMontGrasWINE

(%72-282-2845; www.montgras.cl; Camino Isla de Yáquil s/n, Palmilla; tastings from CH$9000, tours from CH$15,000; h9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, open to 5pm Sun Nov-Apr only; c)

In addition to tastings and ‘make-your-own-wine’ workshops (12:30pm daily, CH$33,000), this extremely friendly, award-winning winery offers horseback riding, hiking and mountain biking. There are also kid-friendly harvest tours from February to May when you can pick and stomp on your own grapes. Reserve ahead for tours.

Viu ManentWINE

(%2-2379-0020; www.viumanent.cl; Carretera del Vino, Km37; tastings CH$13,000, tours CH$16,000; htours 10:30am, noon, 3pm & 4:30pm)

At this third-generation family-owned vineyard, tours involve a carriage ride through 80-year-old vineyards and an insightful winery visit. It’s located close to Santa Cruz, and offers up an unexpected Malbec (better known as an Argentinean wine). Tastings (at 11am or 2pm) are more generous than elsewhere, with seven pours. There’s also a nice on-site restaurant and a cheaper cafe.

EstampaWINE

(%2-2202-7000; www.estampa.com; Ruta 90, Km45, Palmilla; tastings by the glass CH$1500-3500, tours from CH$15,000; h10:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, also open 7-11pm Thu-Sat Nov-Apr)

Reserve a tour or show up for a hands-on tasting at this stylish winery, which specializes in blends. Return on summer evenings for sunset drinks and tapas on the covered patio.

LugarejoWINE

(%cell 9-7135-9285; www.lugarejo.cl; Camino San Gregorio s/n, Nancagua; tours from CH$20,000; hby reservation; c)

Explore the art of winemaking on a minuscule scale at this tiny vineyard halfway between Santa Cruz and San Fernando. English-language tours delve into the nitty-gritty details of how one family with no background in viticulture turned their backyard into an award-winning winery.

Viña Santa CruzWINE

(%72-235-4920; www.vinasantacruz.cl; Lolol; tours adult/child CH$19,000/9000; h10am-6pm; c)

This 900-hectare winery caters specifically to tourists, and is one of the only wineries in the area suitable for kids. The three-pour winery tour takes you up a gondola to a small observatory (enquire about star tours Thursday to Saturday nights, CH$16,000) and a grouping of replica indigenous villages.

Viña Las NiñasWINE

(%72-297-8060; www.vinalasninas.com; Apalta Casilla 94, Parcela 11; tastings CH$7000, tours CH$12,000; h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sat)

This low-key organic winery, with its all-female leadership team, has a new visitor center just outside its pine-box vinting facility for tastings and tours. Staff can prepare picnics (with advance notice) or point you toward hikes in the surrounding hills.

LapostolleWINE

(%72-295-7350; www.lapostolle.com; Apalta Valley; tours CH$20,000, prixe-fixe lunch CH$40,000-60000, r US$1500; h10:30am-5:30pm) S

This iconic winery has a nice tasting tour at its six-story complex set on a hill above the Apalta Valley. The reds here are excellent, and the tour includes a taste of the signature Clos de Apalta wine. Set aside some extra time for an outstanding lunch. It occasionally offers tastings only (CH$15,000) in the off-season.

MontesWINE

(%72-260-5195; www.monteswines.com; Apalta Valley; tours from CH$14,000; h9am-6pm)

High-tech, ecofriendly winemaking and vineyards covering picturesque hillsides. Tours start with a visit through the vineyards and end with a four-wine tasting. Note that this winery caters more to group tours than individual walk-ups.

8Getting There & Away

Visiting the wineries in the area is best done in a rental car from Santiago or on a tour organized either in Santiago or Santa Cruz. Do not drink and drive. There’s a zero-tolerance policy.

Santa Cruz

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Your jumping-off point for journeys into wine country is a rather sleepy place with a pretty main square, an excellent private museum, a smattering of fine restaurants and, of course, a casino. Other than a cruise around the plaza and an afternoon in the museum, there’s not much else to be seen or done here. But it makes for a pleasant base as you head into the countryside for picnics and tastings.

1Sights & Activities

Museo de ColchaguaMUSEUM

(%72-821-050; www.museocolchagua.cl; Errázuriz 145; adult/child CH$7000/3000; h10am-7pm)

Exhibiting the impressive private collection of controversial entrepreneur and alleged arms dealer Carlos Cardoen, this is the largest private museum in Chile. The collection includes pre-Columbian anthropomorphic ceramics from all over Latin America; weapons, religious artifacts and Mapuche silver; and a whole room of huasos (cowboy) gear.

For many Chileans, the headlining exhibit here is El Gran Rescate (The Big Rescue), showing objects, photos and films related to the October 2010 rescue of the 33 miners trapped 700m underground near Copiapó. Perhaps as interesting as the museum is the story of its founder, Carlos Cardoen, who allegedly sold armaments to Iraq during Saddam Hussein’s regime, and was instrumental in bringing tourism to the Colchagua Valley by supporting the creation of museums and other wine-centric attractions.

Tren Sabores del ValleRAIL

(%600-585-5000; www.trencentral.cl/sabores-del-valle; tickets CH$60,000-70,000)

Departing Santiago’s Estacion Central at 9:10am, this eight-hour round-trip train excursion takes you through the Colchagua Valley to the San Fernando Terminal, where you disembark and head out on a bus to a popular area winery for a tasting.

The tourist-oriented trip includes food and two tastings on board. It runs every other Saturday throughout the year. The website has up-to-date schedules.

TTours

Red Del VinoTOUR

(%72-282-3422; www.reddelvino.com; Diego Portales 957; tours from CH$15,000; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat)

An association of small-batch producers offering interesting tours of the smaller operations in the valley.

zFestivals & Events

Fiesta de la Vendimia de ColchaguaWINE

(www.vendimiadecolchagua.cl; Plaza de Armas; hMar)

Santa Cruz celebrates the grape harvest with this lively festival. Local wineries set up stands in the Plaza de Armas, a harvest queen is crowned, and there is singing and folk dancing all round.

4Sleeping

oHotel Casa PandoB&B$$

(%72-282-1734; www.casapando.cl; Cabello 421; r CH$75,000; pWs)

Food and wine lovers José María and Mariela run this remarkably friendly B&B just on the edge of town, six blocks north of Plaza de Armas. The converted house has large rooms (that could be a bit brighter, but are nevertheless highly serviceable) surrounded by gorgeous gardens. There’s a large pool, and the owners know everything you’ll need to know to savor your experience in wine country.

Casa SilvaHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(%72-271-7491; www.casasilva.cl; Hijuela Norte s/n, San Fernando; d incl breakfast & wine tour from US$250; Ws)

Maple trees shade the stone-tiled courtyard, complete with fountain, at the heart of this 115-year-old house on the edge of a vineyard, near Ruta 5, Km132. The sumptuous rooms ooze Old World style with their padded fabric wall-coverings, old prints, and antique wardrobes and bedsteads (many are four-posters).

Hacienda Histórica MarchigüeHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

(%cell 9-9307-4183; http://haciendahistorica.com; Los Maitenes s/n, Marchigüe; r incl breakfast CH$110,000; pWs)

This sprawling hotel was originally built in 1736 and used as an administrative building for Jesuits. It’s quite remote, but it has all you will need, including a pool, a wine cellar, mountain bikes, horses to rent and plenty of opportunities to explore the 50-hectare fundo (estate).

Hotel Plaza Santa CruzRESORT$$$

(%72-220-9600; www.hotelsantacruzplaza.cl; Plaza de Armas 286; s/d incl breakfast US$350/400; pWs)

Pass through the archway off the main square to enter this striking Spanish-colonial-inspired resort. Lush landscaping, a lagoon-style swimming pool, a classy vinoteca (wine cellar), a pair of gourmet restaurants (recommended and open to the public), a spa and, of course, the gleaming Casino Colchagua round out the offerings.

5Eating

179 Pizzeria BarITALIAN$

(%72-248-6266; www.bar179.cl; Besoain 179; mains CH$6000, pizzas to share CH$9000; h11am-3am Mon-Sat)

Excellent pizzas and pastas, plus wines by the glass, bring in a small lunch crowd to this stylish space near Plaza de Armas. At night, the bar comes alive with glowing blue lights, DJ lineups and creative, potent cocktails.

Vino BelloITALIAN$$

(www.ristorantevinobello.com; Barreales s/n; mains CH$7000-11,000; h12:30-3:30pm & 7:30-10:30pm; pW)

It’s just 1km out of town, but this warm Italian restaurant really makes you feel like you’re in the heart of wine country – especially when you’re sipping a glass of Carmenere on the gorgeous patio at sunset or dining by candlelight on homemade gnocchi or thin-crust pizzas.

From Plaza de Armas, take Nicolas Palacios, passing the Laura Hartwig vineyards; you’ll see the entrance to Vino Bello on the left.

Viña La PosadaINTERNATIONAL$$

(Rafael Casanova 572; mains CH$7000-11,000; hhours vary by establishment; W)

Ten blocks west of the Plaza de Armas, this colonial-style winery has an excellent grouping of international restaurants. La Casita de Barreales features traditional Peruvian fare, while Tatos gives Peruvian cuisine a modern twist. La Posada del Asturiano serves Spanish tapas and get things moving.

7Shopping

VinonautaWINE

(%cell 9-9665-5314; www.vinonauta.cl; 21 de Mayo 287; tastings from CH$13,000; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

This intimate shop sells hard-to-find garage wines and top-quality bottles from small Chilean producers. The English-speaking owner can organize thematic tastings by reservation, but there’s always a bottle open to try when you pass by. Inquire about special winemaker talks (Spanish only, every other Saturday).

Eco BazarARTS & CRAFTS

(www.facebook.com/ecobazarsantacruz; Rafael Casanova 572, Local A; h11am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)

Quality ceramics, jewelry, textiles, children’s toys and home goods from local designers at affordable prices.

8Information

BancoEstado (Besoain 24; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat) Has an ATM and changes dollars or euros.

Post Office (%800-267-736; Claudio Cancino 65; h9am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Centrally located post office near the Plaza de Armas.

Ruta del Vino (%72-282-3199; www.rutadelvino.cl; Plaza de Armas 298; h9am-7pm) Stop by the storefront in Santa Cruz to pick up a guide to valley wineries. You can also shop for wines, get area info or sign up for tours (from CH$14,000).

8Getting There & Away

Long-distance buses operate from the open-air Terminal de Buses Santa Cruz (Rafael Casanova 478), about four blocks west of the Plaza de Armas. Buses Nilahue (www.busesnilahue.cl; Rafael Casanova 478, Terminal de Buses Santa Cruz) and other lines offer hourly departures from Santa Cruz to Pichilemu (CH$3000, two hours), San Fernando (CH$1500, 45 minutes) and Santiago (CH$5000, three hours).

To get to Lolol or Curicó (CH$1000 to CH$1800), look for the fleet of local minibuses; they leave every 20 minutes between 6:30am and 9pm from the parking lot adjacent to the main terminal.

Matanzas

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Hip Santiaguinos have been moving to tiny Matanzas in recent years to set up uberstylish hotels and shops along its long grey-sand beach. They’re joined by windsurfers and other adventure enthusiasts from around the world who’ve helped turn this tranquil hamlet – framed by pea-green hills – into one of the trendiest spots along the central coast.

4Sleeping & Eating

Roca Cuadrada HostelHOSTAL$

(%cell 9-7552-9414; www.rocacuadrada.cl; Carlos Ibañes del Campo s/n; dm/d CH$17,000/55,000)

This hostel by the sea is spartan but sleek with an unrivaled position on the sand. Dorms hold no more than four beds and there’s a shared kitchen, storage space for water-sports equipment and a bar overlooking the ocean that’s lively on weekend nights. The on-site surf shop offers 1½-hour lessons (private/per person in a group CH$25,000/20,000).

oOMZ - Olas de MatanzasHOTEL$$$

(%cell 9-9643-4809; www.omz.cl; Fundo San Luis de Lagunillas; 4-person campsites CH$45,000, r CH$130,000, cabins CH$119,000-180,000; pW)

This sprawling oceanfront complex includes a stylish wood-built hotel, even more stylish two- to six-person Tetris-like cabins and luxury campsites (with private bathrooms and covered picnic areas). But it doesn’t stop there: add to the mix a yoga studio, a tennis court, a spa, heaps of hot tubs and a bike park. Most amenities are included for noncampers.

Head to OMZ’s surf shop for lessons (private/per person in a group CH$25,000/20,000) or to rent equipment by the day for windsurfing (CH$50,000), surfing (CH$20,000), SUP (CH$20,000) or mountain biking (CH$12,000).

Hotel SurazoDESIGN HOTEL$$$

(%cell 9-9600-0110; www.surazo.cl; Carlos Ibáñez del Campo s/n; dm CH$25,000, d CH$95,000-130,000; Ws)

This gorgeous high-design hotel is built on stilts above the sand with many rooms facing right out onto the sea. Facilities include a small pool, a sauna, hot tubs and fire pits, and there are comfy dorms for solitary surfers.

SurazoSEAFOOD, PIZZA$$

(www.surazo.cl; Carlos Ibañes del Campo s/n; mains CH$11,000-13,000, pizzas to share CH$10,000; h1:30-10:30pm; W)

Glass walls encase two gnarled old trees that rise above this restaurant by the beach. Inventive pizzas and exquisite seafood dishes make up the small and ever-changing menus. The attached hotel rivals OMZ for the most stylish in town.

8Getting There & Away

Buses Paravias (%2-2366-0400; www.paravias.com; CH$6500) runs three buses per day between Santiago’s Terminal San Borja and Matanzas. The journey takes about three hours.

Pichilemu

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Wave gods and goddesses brave the icy waters of Chile’s unofficial surf capital year-round, while mere beach-going mortals fill its long black sands December through March. The town itself isn’t winning any beauty pageants any time soon, but it has an odd charm and heaps of quality restaurants, cafes and hotels to keep visitors happy. Just outside the town center, the streets are still unpaved, lending an atavistic air to this peaced-out surfer village. Further south, you’ll find a string of small villages that have amazing surf, small lodges and plenty of good-times vibes that harken back to the golden days of surfing.

1Sights & Activities

oCahuilVILLAGE

This little village has good ocean views and a few restaurants and cabins. Head to the bridge for a 30-minute boat tour of the Laguna de Cahuil (CH$5000 per boat with up to five people), and to purchase local ceramics. Further inland, follow the Ruta de la Sal, a scenic drive past salt farms and tidelands teeming with waterfowl.

Centro Cultural Augustín RossCULTURAL CENTER

(%72-297-6595; www.centroculturalagustinross.cl; Ross 495; h9am-9pm) F

This three-story cultural center is housed in a gorgeous building that used to be the town’s casino. Rotating art exhibits make a welcome break from beach life and bonfires.

Surfing

The westernmost part of Pichi juts out into the sea, forming La Puntilla, the closest surfing spot to town, where you’ll find a long and slow point break. Fronting the town center to the northeast is calm Playa Principal (Main Beach), while south is the longer and rougher Infiernillo, known for its more dangerous lefts, fast tow and fun beachfront leftovers. The best surfing in the area is at Punta de Lobos, 6km south of Pichi proper, where you’ll find a steep left. Waves break year-round, but get better from September through May. You definitely want a wetsuit. Enquire at Pichilemu Surf Hostal for kiteboards or Océanos for surf trips to remote beaches (US$125).

Escuela de Surf Manzana 54SURFING

(%cell 9-9574-5984; www.manzana54.cl; Eugenio Díaz Lira 5; board & gear hire per day CH$7000-8000, 2hr group classes CH$10,000)

A reliable surf school, on La Puntilla beach, where conditions are good for beginners.

OcéanosSURFING

(%cell 9-7706-0392; www.oceanoschile.com; Pasaje San Alfonso s/n; surf lesson US$45, cultural tour US$55, 5-day all-inclusive surf retreat US$750)

This operation offers highly recommended English-language surf or SUP lessons, wine tours to Colchagua Valley, cultural tours to Cáhuil and all-inclusive retreats with stays at its cosy Surf House.

CCourses

Pichilemu Institute of Language StudiesLANGUAGE

(PILS; %cell 9-6526-3106; www.studyspanishchile.com; Anibal Pinto 21, Piso 3, Oficina 3-R; private lesson US$20, weekly 15-hour course US$180)

Take a break from surf sessions at this language school that can arrange homestays.

4Sleeping

SurfarmHOSTEL$

(%cell 9-9539-8693; www.surfarm.cl; 1km south of Cahuil Bridge, Cahuil; campsites per person CH$7000, dm/d CH$10,000/25,000; W)

To really get away from it all, head to this old workers’ camp that young upstart Nico has converted into a rural hostel and surf lodge. You get a pretty decent break right outside your door (surf classes CH$15,000). Horseback rides (CH$18,000) are also on offer. Dorm rooms are quite rustic, while doubles are a bit nicer with pine walls, comfy beds and private bathrooms.

You’ll need to bring your own food. To get here, call ahead and Nico will pick you up.

Eco Camping La CaletillaCAMPGROUND$

(%72-284-1010; www.campingpichilemu.cl; Eugenio Suarez 905; campsites per person CH$5000-8000; W)

Enjoy hot showers, an outside kitchen area and wind-sheltered pitches at this groovy campsite 1km south of town. Most of the structures are made from repurposed materials.

Pichilemu Surf HostalHOSTEL$

(%cell 9-9270-9555; www.surfhostal.com; Eugenio Diaz Lira 167; dm/s/d incl breakfast CH$15,000/30,000/45,000; W)

Attic-style lookouts with incredible sea views top most of the rooms at this unusually designed clapboard hostel opposite Infiernillo beach. Each room has firm beds, pale linens and huge framed photos of the nearby waves. Expert wave advice is provided by Pichilemu Surf Hostal’s windsurfing Dutch owner, Marcel.

Perks include free bikes and chairs to watch sunset on the beach. There’s also a restaurant and bar, El Puente Holandés. A new, more luxe property was under construction next door at the time of research.

Hotel Chile EspañaHOTEL$

(%72-284-1270; www.chileespana.cl; Av Ortúzar 255; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$25,000/35,000/50,000; W)

Once a popular surfer hangout, this budget hotel, located at the entrance to town, now caters largely to older travelers. If you’re not looking to party at a youth hostel, score a room here. The Spanish-style building, with its leafy central patio, wooden shutters and antique interior, is utterly charming, though a few of the rooms are a bit cell-like.

Cabañas WaitaraCABIN$

(%72-284-3026; www.waitara.cl; Costanera 1039; d/tr/q CH$35,000/40,000/55,000; W)

Overlooking the town’s main beach, these cabins have pitched roofs, sunny porches, bathrooms and small living rooms with kitchenettes, making it a good bet for groups. Cabins range in size, accommodating two to 11 people. The attached club is the town’s top nightlife spot, so expect noise on weekend evenings.

Surf Lodge Punta De LobosLODGE$$

(%cell 9-8154-1106; www.surflodgepuntadelobos.com; Catrianca s/n; d/tr/q from CH$56,000/60,000/64,000; Ws)

This woodsy complex oozes youthful energy with a hip design and ample leisure toys for adults (such as board games, hammocks and swings). The rooms are small for a reason; you’re meant to spend time communing with other guests in the lounges, over a bonfire, at one of the two pools, or at the spa and Jacuzzi.

Cabañas Guzmán LyonRESORT$$

(%72-284-1068; www.cabanasguzmanlyon.cl; San Antonio 48; d/tr/q incl breakfast CH$65,000/70,000/80,000; Ws)

This rambling cliff-top resort just north of the town’s main intersection is comprised of a series of clapboard cottages. There are stunning views over the ocean and lake from the private patio off the front of each cottage.

La LoicaCABIN$$$

(%cell 9-7897-8190; www.loicachile.cl; Punta de Lobos s/n; d/q CH$75,000/80,000; W)

These Punta de Lobos cabins have pine walls, gorgeous picture windows that just catch the sea and chilled-out terraces. It’s the perfect spot for families and surfers. Cabins all come with kitchens, wood-burning stoves and modern amenities. We totally love Numero 3.

5Eating

PulpoPIZZA$

(%72-284-1827; Ortúzar 275; mains CH$4000-8000; hnoon-1am Tue-Sat, 1-4:30pm Sun, 7:30pm-12:30am Mon; Wv)

This central pizza joint has a pleasant patio and an airy interior. It serves up crispy stone-fired pies with plenty of veggie offerings such as artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes. There are also salads, sandwiches and ceviches.

La Casa de las EmpanadasEMPANADAS$

(Aníbal Pinto 268; empanadas CH$1800-2500; h11am-11pm)

Just look for all the surfers eating out of brown paper bags at the wooden benches outside this cheerful takeout counter serving killer gourmet empanadas. The seafood versions are to die for.

Restaurant Los ColchaguinosCHILEAN$

(%cell 9-6307-6816; Aníbal Pinto 298; mains CH$5000-7000; h11am-7pm, to midnight Jan & Feb)

Rich, homey paila marina (seafood stew) is the star attraction at this small, family-run hole-in-the-wall.

El Puente HolandésSEAFOOD$$

(%cell 9-9270-0955; Eugenio Díaz Lira 167; mains CH$8000-10,000; h1-4pm & 7-11pm)

An arching wooden bridge leads from the Costanera into this high-ceilinged bar and restaurant overlooking Infiernillo beach. Run by the same owners as Pichilemu Surf Hostal, it does simple seafood dishes well – grilled sea bass or clam, for example – or you can nurse a beer or cocktail on the terrace.

6Drinking & Nightlife

There are a handful of nice bars on Eugenio Diaz Lira at the intersection with Valderrama. The only nightclub anyone goes to these days is the one attached to Cabañas Waitara.

CúrcumaJUICE BAR

(%cell 9-9509-0670; www.facebook.com/curcumapichilemu; Av Comercio 2241, Local 23; h11am-5:30pm Sun-Thu, to 9:30pm Fri & Sat; W)

A hipstery juice bar and healthy brunch spot in a buzzing new shopping center, Altomar, at the southern edge of town.

7Shopping

Tienda Marcelo Pino SommelierWINE

(%72-284-2522; Ortúzar 255; h10am-9pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat)

A boutique wine shop that doubles as a wine bar with cheese and meat boards to accompany the vino.

8Information

BancoEstado (Ortúzar 681; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) ATM and currency exchange (US dollars and euros only).

Oficina de Información Turística (www.pichilemu.cl; Av Angel Gaete 365, Municipalidad; h8am-1pm & 2-5pm) Basic information about accommodations and events is available from this office within the main municipal building.

Post Office (Aníbal Pinto 45; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat)

8Getting There & Away

The Terminal de Buses (%72-298-0504; cnr Av Millaco & Los Alerces) is in the southwestern section of Pichilemu; the closest stop to the town center is the corner of Santa María and Ortúzar. From the terminal there are frequent services to Santa Cruz (CH$3000, two hours), San Fernando (CH$5000, 3½ hours) and Santiago (CH$7000, four hours) with Buses Nilahue (%72-284-2042; www.busesnilahue.cl; cnr Av Millaco & Los Alerces) and Pullman del Sur (%72-284-2425; www.pdelsur.cl; cnr Av Millaco & Los Alerces): you can buy tickets at the terminal. Change at San Fernando for buses or trains south. If you’re going to Santiago, make sure to ask for a bus that goes through Melipilla; though it bumps along country roads for kilometers, it’s a more direct service that gets you into Santiago in less than four hours.

Curicó

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‘Nice plaza’ is about as much as most locals have to say about Curicó. They’re right: some 60 towering palm trees ring the square, while the inside is decorated with cedars, monkey puzzles, a striking early 20th-century wrought-iron bandstand and a wooden statue of the Mapuche chief Toqui Lautaro. (Fun fact: Curicó means ‘Black Water’ in Mapudungun, the language of the Mapuche.) Curicó bursts into life for the Fiesta de la Vendimia (Wine Harvest Festival; http://vendimiachile.cl; Plaza de Armas; hMar), which lasts four days in early fall. Otherwise, it’s a pretty humdrum place that most travelers use as a launchpad for exploring the stunning Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas, or the nearby wineries in the Curicó and Maule Valleys.

TTours

Ruta del Vino CurícoTOURS

(%75-232-8972; www.rutadelvinocurico.cl; Carmen 727, Hotel Raíces; tour CH$87,000; h10am-1pm & 3:30-7pm Mon-Fri)

Can arrange a chauffeured guided tour to two of the best Curicó Valley vineyards, including San Pedro, Echeverria and Aresti, plus lunch at the Miguel Torres winery.

4Sleeping & Eating

Homestay in ChileGUESTHOUSE$$

(%75-222-5272; www.homestayinchile.cl; Argomedo 448; s/d/tr US$65/85/108; pW)

The English-speaking host of this guesthouse one block south of the Plaza de Armas offers the warmest welcome in Curicó. Pillows are cloud-like, wi-fi is fast and breakfast includes real coffee and fresh juice.

oEl Cerrillo Bed & BreakfastB&B$$$

(%cell 9-8678-0000; Fundo El Cerrillo s/n, Lontue; d/q from CH$82,000/108,000; Ws)

This gloriously landscaped estate house, 14km south of town, is an atmospheric pick for a wine-country getaway in the Curicó Valley. It absolutely drips of romance, with refined furnishings and sun-kissed decks overlooking rolling vines. Note that the cheaper rooms have external bathrooms.

El Rincón CheCHILEAN$

(%75-274-6003; Agromedo 249; mains CH$3500-10,000; hnoon-4pm daily, 8-10:30pm Thu-Sat)

A laid-back spot near Plaza de Armas for cheap set lunches and bountiful grilled-meat platters on weekend evenings.

oRestaurante Miguel TorresCHILEAN$$$

(%75-256-4100; www.migueltorres.cl; Panamericana Sur, Km195; mains CH$15,000-17,000; h12:30-4pm daily, plus 8:30-11pm Fri)

Set amid sprawling vineyards, this high-end eatery cooks up gourmet versions of Chilean classics – and every dish is listed with a recommended wine pairing (lamb and quinoa paired with Reserva de Pueblo País? Si, por favor.) It’s just south of town off Hwy 5.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

Most Curicó buses arrive at and leave from the Terminal de Buses (cnr Prat & Maipú), near the train station five blocks west of the Plaza de Armas. From here Andimar (%75-231-2000; www.andimar.cl) has frequent services to Santiago (CH$5000, 2½ hours, every 15 minutes). Pullman del Sur (%2-2776-2424; www.pdelsur.cl) has a cheaper service (CH$3500), but there are only three daily departures.

To get to Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas, catch a bus to Molina (CH$600, 35 minutes, every five minutes) with Aquelarre (%75-232-6404; Terminal de Buses Rurales, opposite the main bus terminal). From Molina there are frequent services to the park in January and February, and one daily service to Radal, 9km before the park proper, the rest of the year.

Turbus (%600-660-6600; www.turbus.cl; cnr Av Manso de Velasco & Castillion) has its own terminal southeast of town. From here, services go to Santiago (CH$4000, 2½ hours, three daily) and Valparaíso (CH$8000, 4½ hours, one daily), and also south to Osorno (CH$12,000, 10 hours, three daily), Puerto Montt (CH$12,000, 12 hours, two daily) and Valdivia (CH$12,000, 10 hours, two daily).

TRAIN

TrenCentral passenger trains between Santiago and Chillán stop at Curicó’s train station (%600-585-5000; www.trencentral.cl; Maipú 657; hticket office 9:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat, 12:30-8:30pm Sun), five blocks west along Prat from the Plaza de Armas, near the bus station. There are three trains a day to Santiago (CH$8100, 2¼ hours) and Chillán (CH$9100, 2½ hours).

Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas

The upper basin of the Río Claro marks the beginning of the ecological transition between drought-tolerant Mediterranean vegetation to the north and moist evergreen forests to the south. Here, 78km southeast of Curicó along a narrow gravel road, lies the Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas (%71-222-4461; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-radal-siete-tazas; adult/child CH$5000/1000; h9am-7:30pm Jan & Feb, to 5:30pm Mar-Dec).

Conaf’s main post is at the Parque Inglés sector, 11km beyond the entrance at Radal, but there are two interesting stop-offs in between. Velo de la Novia (‘The Bridal Veil’) is a 50m-high waterfall you can see from a small roadside viewing point 2.6km from Radal. Another 4.4km on is the Conaf ranger hut and car park for the 400m trail to the Siete Tazas (Seven Cups), a breathtaking series of seven pools carved out of black basalt by the Río Claro. From here, another short trail leads to a viewpoint for the Salto la Leona, a waterfall plunging more than 50m from a narrow gorge.

Two well-marked hiking trails loop from Camping Los Robles at Parque Inglés: the 1km Sendero el Coigüe and 7km Sendero Los Chiquillanes, which has great views of the Valle del Indio (plan on about four hours of walking in total). The first segment of this trail is part of the Sendero de Chile, which continues to El Bolsón, where there is a refuge, and Valle del Indio. From here you can trek across the drainage of the Río Claro to Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay, taking about two days (roughly 32km): the route is unsigned and crosses private land, so either do it with a guide or get detailed information from Conaf and carry a topographical map, compass and adequate supplies. Trekking Chile (%71-197-0097; www.trekkingchile.com; Viña Andrea s/n; tours from CH$45,000), based in nearby Talca, can take you on guided trips and has the best maps of the region.

Conaf runs two campsites at the Parque Inglés sector: Camping Rocas Basálticas (%75-222-8029; parque.radalsietetazas@conaf.cl; Parque Inglés; campsites per person CH$3000) and Camping Los Robles (%75-222-8029; parque.radalsietetazas@conaf.cl; campsites per person CH$3000). Both get very busy during summer.

8Getting There & Away

During January and February Buses Hernández operates four services from the Terminal de Buses in Molina to the Parque Inglés sector of the park (CH$3000, 2½ hours). From March to December there is one daily bus with Buses Radal to Radal (CH$2500, two hours, 5pm), 11km down the hill from Parque Inglés. It returns to Molina at 7:30am daily.

To drive to Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas, take the Panamericana south of Curicó then turn off to Molina. Leave Molina on paved road K-175 and the road soon turns to gravel. From here, it’s a bumpy 39km further to Radal, and another 11km to Parque Inglés.

Maule Valley

The Maule Valley, a hugely significant wine-producing region for Chile, is responsible for much of the country’s export wine. The specialty here is full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, though intriguing bottles of old-vine Carignan and País are the real stars.

Many visitors use Talca as a base for exploring the wineries and the nearby Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay. Ask for the free Región del Maule booklet at Sernatur in Talca for great information (in English) on recommended treks, local tips and a guide to regional flora and fauna.

2Activities

oViña GillmoreWINE

(%73-197-5539; www.gillmore.cl; Camino Constitución, Km20; tour incl 2 pours CH$6000, tasting only CH$2000; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) S

There’s more to do at this boutique winery, which is converting to an organic system, than sip and swirl (though its Vigno Carignan is indeed fantastic; Vigno is a Chilean wine appellation). It also features beautiful trails, a vino-themed lodge (rooms from CH$140,000) and a spa offering various wine-based therapies. No reservations necessary for tastings.

Casa DonosoWINE

(%71-234-1400; www.casadonoso.cl; Camino a Palmira, Fundo La Oriental, Km3.5; tastings from CH$6000, tours from CH$15,000; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)

A traditionally run vineyard set around a colonial homestead, this winery on the edge of Talca (taxis cost CH$4500) offers huge discounts on bottles in the wine store. Reservations are recommended for tours and tastings, though they’re not always necessary.

Viña J BouchonWINE

(%73-197-2708; www.bouchonfamilywines.com; Camino Constitución, Km30; tours by reservation only CH$15,000; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) S

Located 30km from Constitución, this sustainable winery offers horseback riding (CH$20,000), bike tours (CH$15,000) and other outdoor activities, all of which must be reserved 48 hours in advance. There’s also a beautiful inn for overnight stays (rooms from US$320).

Viña BalduzziWINE

(%73-232-2138; www.balduzzi.com; Av Balmaceda 1189, San Javier; tour incl 4 pours CH$9000, tasting only CH$4500; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; gSan Javier Directo)

A visitor-friendly fourth-generation winery surrounded by spacious gardens and well-kept colonial buildings. Unlike at many other wineries, no reservation is required. Balduzzi is also one of the few wineries that’s easy to reach by public transportation. From the bus terminal in Talca, look for a bus labeled ‘San Javier Directo’ (CH$900), which drops passengers off near the winery.

Via WinesWINE

(%71-241-5500; www.viawines.com; Fundo La Esperanza s/n, San Rafael; tour incl 3 pours from CH$15,000; htours by reservation with 48hr notice) S

One of Chile’s first certifiably sustainable wineries, Via Wines turns out delicious Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. Though it isn’t as visitor friendly as other Maule Valley wineries, you can reserve ahead for well-run two-hour winery tours.

Ruta del VinoTOURS

(www.valledelmaule.cl; Talca)

Maule’s Ruta del Vino was in flux at the time of research, but had plans to open an office in Talca and restart regular wine tours in 2018.

5Eating

Viña Corral VictoriaCHILEAN$$

(%cell 9-9279-4111; www.corralvictoria.cl; Camino San Clemente, Km11; mains CH$5000-11,000; h11am-5pm Tue-Sun, 6pm-midnight Thu-Sat; W)

More of a restaurant than a winery (though you can do tastings in the wine shop for CH$4000), this woodsy spot 7km east of Talca offers a countryside dining experience where parrillada (a sharing platter of grilled meats) is the star attraction.

8Getting There & Away

Talca’s tourism board runs occasional buses from the Plaza de Armas to area vineyards for as little as CH$1000. Check its Facebook page (www.facebook.com/visitatalca) for the latest schedules.

It’s always possible to reach three wineries – Balduzzi, Casa Donoso and Corral Victoria – from Talca by public transportation or by taking a cheap taxi (CH$4500–CH$8000), but you’ll need a car for a more in-depth exploration of the valley.

Talca

%71 / POP 228,045

Founded in 1690, Talca was once considered one of the country’s principal cities; Chile’s 1818 declaration of independence was signed here. These days it’s mainly known as a convenient base for exploring the gorgeous Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay and the Maule Valley wineries. You’ll find a decent range of travelers’ services, including dining and lodging options, plus lovely views of the Andes when you’re strolling down the sun-baked pedestrian thoroughfare at midday. However, there is little reason to linger too long.

4Sleeping & Eating

Cabañas Stella BordesteroCABAñAS$

(%71-235-545; www.turismostella.cl; 4 Poniente 1 Norte 1183; s/d cabin incl breakfast CH30,000/48,000; aWs)

Four blocks from the Plaza de Armas but a world apart, these clapboard cabins are surrounded by a leafy garden with a swimming pool, deck chairs and a grill. The owners have been just as thorough inside: there are firm beds, cable TVs and small decks where you can relax with a glass of wine in the evening.

oCasa ChuecaGUESTHOUSE$$

(%71-197-0096; www.casa-chueca.com; Viña Andrea s/n, Sector Alto Lircay; dm CH$13,500, d CH$49,000-75,000, 4-person cabins CH$122,000; Ws) S

Gardens looking over the Río Lircay surround the comfortable cabins and hostel at Austrian-run Casa Chueca. It’s in the countryside outside Talca, but it has become a destination in its own right for fans of the great outdoors. The knowledgeable owners can help you plan trekking and horseback-riding adventures in nearby Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay or beyond.

They’ll also arrange wine tastings, Spanish lessons and kid-friendly activities. From Talca terminal you can take the Taxutal ‘A’ micro toward San Valentín to the last stop and walk 1.9km, but it’s much easier to take a taxi (CH$5000).

Las Viejas CochinasCHILEAN$

(%71-222-1749; www.lasviejascochinas.cl; Rivera Poniente s/n; mains CH$4200-10,000; hnoon-midnight; p)

One of Talca’s most popular restaurants is a huge, clattering, low-roofed canteen out of town alongside the Río Claro. Dour waiters take forever to bring out the house specialty, pollo mariscal (chicken in a brandy and seafood sauce), but it’s worth the wait and big enough to share.

To get there, leave town heading west along 4 Norte (Av O’Higgins), cross the Río Claro bridge, keep right, then stay right at the fork in the road.

La Buena CarneCHILEAN$

(www.parrilladaslabuenacarne.cl; cnr 6 Oriente & 1 Norte; mains CH$3500-7500; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat)

This cozy, contemporary steakhouse offers friendly service, a fantastic central location, and a menu of gigantic steak platters, cheap wine by the glass and classic Chilean dishes. In the evenings, locals come to drink beer and watch fútbol (soccer).

8Information

BancoEstado (1 Sur 971; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) One of many ATMs along 1 Sur.

Hospital Regional (%71-274-7000; www.hospitaldetalca.cl; 1 Norte 1951; h24hr) Big and busy public hospital on the corner of 13 Oriente.

Post Office (Correos de Chile; %800-267-736; 1 Oriente 1150; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Inside a large building off Plaza de Armas.

Sernatur (%71-222-6940; www.chile.travel; 1 Oriente 1150; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, extended hours Dec-Feb) Exceptionally helpful English-speaking staff offer travelers advice on accommodations and activities as well as money-saving tips in Talca. Sernatur also runs occasional buses from the Plaza de Armas to area vineyards for as little as CH$1000. Check its Facebook page (www.facebook.com/visitatalca) for the latest schedules.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

Most companies use the Terminal de Buses de Talca (%71-220-3992; 2 Sur 1920, cnr 12 Oriente), 11 blocks east of the Plaza de Armas. Talca, París y Londres (%71-221-1010; www.busestalcaparisylondres.cl) has hourly buses to Santiago. So does Buses Linatal (%71-268-8765; www.linatal.cl), which also has 14 southbound buses to Concepción daily. Buses Línea Azul (www.buseslineaazul.cl/destinos.php; 2 Sur 1920) has hourly buses south to Chillán. Buses Vilches (%cell 9-5703-0436) has three daily buses to Vilches Alto, gateway to the Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay.

Turbus (%600-660-6600; www.turbus.cl; 3 Sur 1960), which uses a separate terminal one block south of the main terminal, has hourly buses to Santiago, three departures for Valparaíso and two evening buses south to Puerto Montt, stopping at Chillán, Los Angeles, Temuco, Osorno and other cities on the Panamericana. Other companies operating with similar services include Pullman del Sur (%2-2776-2424; www.pdelsur.cl; 2 Sur 1920, Terminal de Buses de Talca) and Pullman Bus (%600-320-3200; www.pullman.cl; 2 Sur 1920, Terminal de Buses de Talca)

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Chillán	4000	2½
Concepción	5,500	3½
Osorno	12,000	8
Puerto Montt	14,000	12
Santiago	5000	3
Temuco	8000	6
Valparaíso/Viña del Mar	9000	6
Vilches	1900	2

TRAIN

From the TrenCentral train station (%600-585-5000; www.trencentral.cl; 11 Oriente 900; hticket office 7am-noon & 3-8pm) there are three trains a day to Santiago (CH$8100, 3½ hours) and south to Chillán (CH$9100, two hours). Check the website for the latest schedules.

Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay

The range of challenging hikes at this well-organized and easily accessible national park (%cell 9-9064-3369; www.conaf.cl/parques/reserva-nacional-altos-de-lircay; adult/child CH $5000/1000; h9am-1pm & 2-5pm) will leave you as short of breath as the fabulous views. Its 121 sq km are made up of a mix of high-Andean steppes, lagoons and deciduous forest that turns a glorious gold and red in the fall. Pudú deer, Patagonian foxes and Pampas cats also live here, though sightings are uncommon.

2Activities

oCircuito de los CóndoresHIKING

Longer hikes around the park include the seven-day Circuito de los Cóndores, for which it’s advisable to carry topographic maps or hire a guide. Another such offering is the loop across the drainage of the Río Claro to exit at Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas.

Sendero EnladrilladoHIKING

Arguably the best hike in the whole of Middle Chile, the Sendero Enladrillado takes you to the top of a 2300m basalt plateau.

The trail starts with a two-hour stretch east along the Sendero de Chile, then a signposted right-hand fork climbs steeply through dense forest for about an hour before leveling off. You eventually emerge onto the dead-flat platform of El Enladrillado – many people think it’s a UFO-landing ground. To the west you can see the flat-topped crater of the Volcán Descabezado (literally, ‘Headless Volcano’) and next to it the sharp peak of Cerro Azul. The 10km trek takes about four hours up and three down. There are two or three potable springs before the trail emerges above the tree line, but carry as much water as possible.

Mirador del Valle VenadoHIKING

A gentle 9km (three-hour) hike along the Sendero de Chile takes you from the Administración to the Mirador del Valle Venado, which has views over the Volcán Descabezado and the Río Claro Valley.

Sendero Laguna del AltoHIKING

The 9km Sendero Laguna del Alto follows the Sendero de Chile for an hour before forking right into a steep, three-hour uphill stretch to the gorgeous Laguna del Alto, a mountain-ringed lake at 2000m above sea level. Plan on three hours there and back, or you can continue for two hours on a trail leading northwest to El Enladrillado.

TTours

Trekking ChileTOURS

(%71-197-0096; www.trekkingchile.com; Viña Andrea s/n, Talca; guided tours in the park per day around Ch$33,000)

Excellent tours organized by an expert Austrian hiker based out of Casa Chueca in Talca. Trekking Chile also runs 10-day tours from Constitución (on the coast) to Altos de Lircay and across the Andes to Argentine Patagonia using electric bikes (inquire for pricing). A one-day version of the e-bike trip to Laguna del Maule costs CH$45,000.

Costa y Cumbre ToursTOURS

(%cell 9-9943-5766; www.costaycumbretours.cl; tours from CH$33,000)

Provides camping equipment, runs horseback-riding trips and offers excellent guided trekking excursions along the park’s more difficult trails.

4Sleeping

Hostería de VilchesCABIN$

(%cell 9-9826-7046; www.hosteriadevilches.cl; Camino Vilches Alto, Km22; 2-person cabins from CH$50,000; s) S

You can stay just outside the park but keep the back-to-nature vibe at Hostería de Vilches, where adorable private cabins overlook well-tended gardens and a pair of swimming pools. The hearty homemade cuisine (dinner CH$8500), laid-back atmosphere and inviting hot tub are a godsend after a day of trekking.

Camping AntahuaraCAMPGROUND$

(%cell 9-9064-3369; campsites per person CH$3000)

Conaf runs the excellent Camping Antahuara in the forest about 800m beyond the Adminstración. It’s accessible by car and has electricity, hot water, flush toilets and garbage collection. There are two campings primitivos (designated camping areas with cold-water showers and toilets), which are respectively a three-hour and an eight-hour hike east from the Administración along the Sendero de Chile.

8Information

Centro de Información Ambiental (Camino Vilches Alto, Km24; h8:30am-1pm & 2-3:30pm) About 2km before the park entrance, this Conaf-run information center has displays on local natural and cultural history (the area has seen four sequential indigenous occupations).

8Getting There & Away

Buses Vilches goes from the Terminal de Buses de Talca to Vilches Alto (CH$1900, two hours), a scattering of houses about 2km below the Centro de Información Ambiental and 5km from the Administración of the Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay. Buses leave Talca daily at 7:15am, noon and 4:50pm from March to December, and there are seven services daily in January and February. The last bus back to Talca is generally at 5:10pm.

Chillán

%42 / POP 180,197

Earthquakes have battered Chillán throughout its turbulent history; the 2010 earthquake was yet another hit. While this perpetually rebuilding city isn’t especially interesting, it is pleasantly green and an important gateway to some of the loveliest landscapes in Middle Chile, not to mention amazing skiing and summer trekking in the nearby mountains.

Chillán

1Sights

1Escuela MéxicoB1

2Mercado de ChillánC4

4Sleeping

3Hotel CanadáB2

4Hotel Las Terrazas ExpressC3

7Shopping

5La Feria de ChillánC4

1Sights

Mercado de ChillánMARKET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Maipón 773; set lunches from CH$2500; h7:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 3pm Sun)

The city’s main market is split into two sections on either side of Maipón between Isabel Riquelme and 5 de Abril. Come to buy Chillán’s famous longaniza sausages.

Escuela MéxicoMONUMENT

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av O’Higgins 250; donations welcome; h10am-12:30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri)

In response to the devastation that the 1939 quake caused, the Mexican government donated the Escuela México to Chillán. At Pablo Neruda’s request, Mexican muralists David Alfaro Siqueiros and Xavier Guerrero decorated the school’s library and stairwell, respectively, with fiercely symbolic murals, now set within an otherwise normal working school.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel CanadáGUESTHOUSE$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %42-232-9481; www.hotelcanada.cl; Bulnes 240; s/d CH$30,000/40,000; pW)

A row of eight clean and comfy rooms set back from the road amid a peaceful garden.

Hotel Las Terrazas ExpressHOTEL$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %42-243-7000; www.lasterrazas.cl; Constitución 663; s/d incl breakfast CH$53,000/60,000; iW)

The rooms are a bit cramped, but for those seeking a few creature comforts in the city proper, this business hotel is just the ticket. The downstairs lobby and cafe are open and airy, and there are a few lounge areas throughout.

oFuego DivinoSTEAK$$

(%42-243-0900; www.fuegodivino.cl; Gamero 980; mains CH$8000-15,000; h12:30-3:30pm & 7:30-10:30pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Stylish restaurants are thin on the ground in Chillán – perhaps that’s why the gleaming black tables here are always booked up on weekends. Or maybe it’s because the expertly barbecued prime cuts of Osorno beef taste so delicious.

7Shopping

La Feria de ChillánMARKET

(MAP; Plaza Sargento Aldea; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

The Feria de Chillán has a reasonable selection of crafts. Especially good are ceramics from the nearby village of Quinchamalí, but you’ll also see rawhide and leatherwork, basketry, weavings and the typical straw hats called chupallas.

8Information

BancoEstado (Constitución 500; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) Bank with ATMs on this street.

Sernatur (www.biobioestuyo.cl; 18 de Sepiembre 455; h9am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Friendly staff provide city maps and information on accommodations and transport.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

Chillán has two long-distance bus stations. The most central is Terminal del Centro (Av Brasil 560), five blocks west of the Plaza de Armas on the corner of Avs Brasil and Constitución. From here, Línea Azul (www.buseslineaazul.cl/destinos.php) has regular services to Santiago, as well as to Los Angeles (six daily), Angol (four daily) and Concepción (every 20 minutes).

All other long-distance carriers use the Terminal María Teresa (O’Higgins 010), north of Av Ecuador. These include Turbus (%600-660-6600; www.turbus.cl), which has services to Santiago (hourly), some of which stop in Talca and other cities along the Panamericana. Turbus also goes direct to Valparaíso and south to Temuco, Osorno, Valdivia and Puerto Montt (four daily). Buses Jac (www.jac.cl) and Condor (www.condorbus.cl) similarly travel to Puerto Montt. Pullman Bus (%600-320-3200; www.pullmanbus.cl) makes daily journeys to Salto del Laja and has direct services to Los Angeles (six daily). It also runs north to Calama, Antofagasta and Arica (10 daily), and south to Puerto Montt (six daily). Sol del Pacífico (www.soldelpacifico.cl) leaves from this terminal for Santiago, Viña and Valparaíso.

Local and regional services leave from the Terminal de Buses Rurales (Terminal Paseo La Merced; Maipón 890). Rembus (%42-222-9377; www.busesrembus.cl; Maipón 890) takes you to Valle Las Trancas (10 daily); the 7:50am and 1:20pm buses continue to Valle Hermoso. Vía Itata (www.busesviaitata.cl; Maipón 890, Terminal de Buses Rurales) is one of several companies here that operate routes to Ninhué (five daily) and Cobquecura (twice daily), continuing to the surf hangout Buchupureo.

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Angol	5000	3
Cobquecura	2300	2¾
Concepción	3000	2
Los Angeles	3000	1½
Osorno	10,100	8
Puerto Montt	11,200	9
Quirihue	1600	1½
Santiago	8000	6
Talca	4000	3
Temuco	8000	5
Termas de Chillán	3000	2
Valdivia	12,000	6
Valparaíso	10,000	8
Valle Las Trancas	2000	1½

CAR

Driving makes it possible to cram in lots of national-park action or quick day trips up the mountain to Termas de Chillán. Try EcaRent (%cell 9-8501-2059; www.ecarent.cl; cnr Avs Brasil & Libertad, train station; h9:30am-2pm & 4-6:30pm). Rates start at about CH$27,000 a day. Note that if the mountain roads are slippery you may need to hire wheel chains too.

TRAIN

The TrenCentral line runs from the train station (%600-585-5000; www.trencentral.cl; cnr Avs Brasil & Libertad; hticket office 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat, from 10am Sun) to Santiago (CH$8100, 4½ hours, three daily), stopping along the way at Talca (CH$5300, 1¾ hours), Curicó (CH$5300, 2½ hours) and Rancagua (CH$8100, 3½ hours), among other places. Check the website for the latest schedules.

Termas de Chillán & Valle Las Trancas

A winding road leads from Chillán 80km up into the mountains to Valle Las Trancas and the Termas de Chillán. Chilean powder fiends flock to these slopes in winter, when bumper-to-bumper traffic is common at the top. The pace is less manic the rest of the year, when the valleys turn a luscious green and are perfect for hiking, climbing and horseback riding, or just lazing around and drinking in the views. Despite the hikers and mountain bikers who come out on summer weekends, the place is almost dead on a weekday in summer. Note that there aren’t any ATMs around most of these accommodations; you’ll want to bring cash from Chillán.

1Sights

Cueva de los PincheiraCAVE

(www.turismolospincheira.cl; Ruta 55, Camino Termas de Chillán, Km61; adult/child CH$3000/2000; h9:30am-6:30pm; c)

On your way to the resort, stop at this roadside attraction, where you can visit a shallow cave and a waterfall and learn about the escapades of the outlaw Pincheira brothers who hid out here. In high season there are reenactments.

ObservatorioOBSERVATORY

(www.milodge.com; M I Lodge, Camino a Shangri-Lá, Km2; nighttime observation tours CH$12,000; hby reservation; c)

On clear summer nights the M I Lodge brings an astronomer up to its observatory to give star talks where you can scan the sky for galaxies and planets through an 18in Dobson telescope.

2Activities

Nevados de Chillán Ski CenterSKIING

(%42-220-6100; www.nevadosdechillan.com; Camino Termas de Chillán, Km85; ski pass per day adult/child CH$41,000/35,000)

The southern slopes of 3122m-high Volcán Chillán are the stunning setting of this ski mecca. Unusually for Chile’s ski resorts, many of its 40 runs track through forest, and there’s a good mix of options for beginners and more experienced skiers.

Superlatives abound here: it’s got the longest piste in South America (13km Las Tres Marías), the longest chairlift and some of the biggest and best off-piste offerings. Since 2008 a snow park and summertime bike park (CH$10,000, 9am–5pm November to March) have been added too. The season can start as early as mid-June and usually runs to late September – locals swear that great snow, empty slopes and discounted ski passes make the beginning of September one of the best times to come. In summer there’s hiking, horseback riding, climbing, canyoning and bike rental; check the website for the full offerings. If money’s no object, stay on-site at the Hotel Nevados de Chillán, where warm thermal waters fill an outdoor pool surrounded by snow.

Valle HermosoOUTDOORS

(www.nevadosdechillan.com; Camino Termas de Chillán, Km83; thermal springs adult/child CH$8000/6000, campsite for up to 5 people CH$30,000; hthermal springs 9am-5pm Apr-Nov, to 9pm Dec-Mar)

A turnoff halfway between Valle Las Trancas and the ski center takes you to this leafy recreational area. Most people come here for the open-air thermal springs, which are open year-round. Ziplines (CH$10,000) and horseback riding (from CH$5000) provide extra action in summer, when you can stay at the small campsite.

M I Lodge SpaSPA

(%cell 9-9321-7567; www.milodge.com; M I Lodge, Camino a Shangri-Lá, Km2; pools CH$9500, pools plus massage CH$28,500; h11am-8pm)

This low-key spa, built entirely of wood, lies on the grounds of M I Lodge and is open to nonguests. It offers indoor and outdoor pools, a Jacuzzi and massages.

Rukapali AdventoursOUTDOORS

(%cell 9-8920-4429; www.rukapali.com; tours from CH$15,000)

Trekking, mountain-biking and rock-climbing tours of Valle las Trancas and the nearby Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja.

Ecoparque Shangri-LáADVENTURE SPORTS

(%cell 9-5730-0095; www.facebook.com/ecoparqueshangrila; Camino Shangri-Lá, Km3; adult/child CH$15,000/12,000; h9am-5:30pm daily Dec-Feb, Fri-Sun only Mar-Nov; c)

Adults can enjoy 25 zipline platforms at this well-done, hour-long canopy tour. The kids’ route is just 15ft off the ground.

4Sleeping & Eating

Accommodations on the mountain divide into two camps. The posh hotels in Termas de Chillán at the top of the road get you closest to the slopes. Prices are much lower, however, if you stay in the cabins, hostels and lodges downhill at Valle Las Trancas. Most places have huge low-season discounts.

Chil’in Hostel & RestauranteHOSTEL$

(%cell 9-9368-2247; www.chil-in.com; Camino Termas de Chillán, Km72; dm/d without bathroom CH$10,500/32,000; Ws)

At this awesome ski-lodge-style hostel, you get a cozy living room and bar and lots of camaraderie. Rooms are simple but clean – some come with lofts to stack more skiers. There’s also an attached pizza restaurant that’s always bumping and a block of private rooms nearby.

oEcobox AndinoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(%42-242-3134; www.ecoboxandino.cl; Camino a Shangri-Lá, Km0.2; 2- to 5-person cabins CH$40,000-130,000, d incl breakfast CH$40,000-80,000; Ws) S

Some of the hippest, most unique lodgings in Middle Chile, these impeccably decorated cabins were once shipping containers. They were interlocked (Lego-style) to create remarkable cabins with modern art deco exteriors and contemporary interiors.

Wooden decks overlook the tree-filled garden through which paths wind to the pool. A separate refugio (rustic shelter) has seven rooms with private bathrooms that look onto a common shared kitchen and living room.

Hotel Nevados de ChillánRESORT$$$

(%42-220-6100; www.nevadosdechillan.com; Camino Termas de Chillán, Km85; r per person incl breakfast and lift ticket from CH$95,000; hclosed Dec; s)

With modern rooms, access to a thermally heated pool and plenty of other activities to chose from, this is a smart buy in ski season.

M I LodgeLODGE$$$

(%cell 9-9321-7567; www.milodge.com; Camino a Shangri-Lá, Km2; r per person incl breakfast CH$30,000-45,000; Ws)

This lodge has plenty to offer: rustic furnishings and a fire crackling in the middle of a beautifully designed glass-and-wood-walled French restaurant (specializing in crepes and open to the public). Rooms are dark and dated, but you have plenty of space and thick mattresses. Request a room with a view.

Snow PubPUB FOOD$

(%42-221-3910; Camino Termas de Chillán, Km71; mains CH$5000-7000; h1pm-late Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

For years the après-ski in Valle Las Trancas has centered on this feel-good bar, which gets packed with revelers in high season. Beyond the booze, it serves delicious pizzas, gnocchi and sandwiches.

8Getting There & Away

From Chillán’s Terminal de Buses Rurales, Rembus has at least 10 daily departures for Valle Las Trancas (CH$2000, 1½ hours); the 7:50am and 1:20pm buses continue to Valle Hermoso. From Santiago’s Terminal Sur there is one direct services to Valle Las Trancas (CH$14,000, seven hours, 2:50pm daily) with Buses Nilahue (%2-2776-1139; www.busesnilahue.cl). In winter there are eight daily shuttle buses from Valle Las Trancas up to the ski center (CH$1600).

Coastal Towns

Quiet unspoiled beaches come with rural surroundings in the remote coastal towns northwest of Chillán. The area’s perfect for lazy walks along the sand, and there’s good, low-key surfing.

Cobquecura

A quiet little town with picturesque houses and dry walls made from local slate (a few too many that crumbled to pieces in the 2010 earthquake), Cobquecura has a long, wide beach with wild waves attracting surfers from around the world. A deep baying sound resonates from a rock formation 50m offshore: known as La Lobería, it’s home to a large colony of sunbathing sea lions.

Follow the coast road 5km north and you reach the exquisite Iglesia de Piedra (Church of Stone), a massive monolith containing huge caves that open to the sea. The light inside the caves is mysterious – Cobquecura’s pre-Hispanic inhabitants held ritual gatherings inside the stone, and it now contains an image of the Virgin Mary. Head 5km south of town and you’ll find Playa Rinconada, the safest beach for a swim.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ruka Antu Eco LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(www.rukaantu.cl; Playa Rinconada s/n; r per person CH$55,000; pWs)

Eight stylish (but small) rooms overlook the pounding waves and a grassy lawn strewn with hammocks. All-inclusive packages (CH$75,000 per person) come with breakfast and dinner in the glassed-in restaurant, guided trekking or SUP lessons, and a relaxing trip to the sauna and private hot tubs.

Reserve ahead for a transfer from the bus stop in Cobquecura to the hotel, which is 5km south of town along Playa Rinconada (CH$5000).

Los CopihuesCAFE$

(%42-197-1360; Independencia 635; sandwiches & cakes CH$1000-2500; h10am-7pm daily, to 9pm Jan & Feb; W)

A local favorite for ridiculously cheap breakfasts, sandwiches and home-baked cakes (try the papaya küchen!). Sit at a table facing the interior garden, sip some espresso and enjoy the friendly service.

Caleta de PescadoresSEAFOOD$

(Playa Rinconada; snacks CH$2000-2500; h10am-6pm)

Fresh-caught crab, piure (a fleshy tunicate) and navajuelas (clams) are sold in small tubs at these simple stands by Playa Rinconada, 5km south of town.

8Getting There & Away

From Chillán’s Terminal de Buses Rurales, Via Itata (www.busesviaitata.cl) has two daily buses to Cobquecura (CH$2500, three hours) leaving at 7:40am and 11am. There are more frequent departures over the summer and on weekends. Magabus (www.magabus.cl) has four daily buses from Concepción (CH$4500) that pass through Cobquecura and connect it with Buchupureo and Pullay. Nilahue (%2-2776-1139; www.busesnilahue.cl) operates a direct bus from Santiago’s Terminal Sur to Cobquecura (CH$10,000, seven hours). There’s just one daily departure between April and November, and two daily departures December to March.

Buchupureo

Magic is alive in this tranquil farming village 13km north of Cobquecura. Steep slopes covered with lush greenery surround the settlement, lending it a tropical air. Despite growing interest from tourists and surfers, the pace of life is slow here: oxen-pulled carts are still a common sight. It’s also a famous fishing spot – corvina (sea bass) apparently jump onto any hook dangled off the beach.

Dunes and scrubland separate the desolate black-sand beach from the main road, which runs parallel to the shore before looping through the small town center to the beach. A couple of wooden walkways also connect the road and the sand.

4Sleeping & Eating

Complejo Turística AyekánCABIN$

(%cell 9-9988-5986; www.turismoayekan.cl; Guillermo Cox s/n; campsites CH$15,000, 2-/4-person cabins CH$35,000/65,000; s)

In summertime you can pitch your tent at one of 20 campsites in a pretty clearing at the bottom of a eucalyptus-lined drive, close to the beach. A circular restaurant serves Chilean and Peruvian food (mains CH$5000–CH$15,000), and the cabins come with kitchens and log furniture. You can just hear the waves from your porch.

oParque Las NalkasRESORT$$$

(%cell 9-7779-8469; www.parquelasnalkas.cl; Talcamavida s/n; 2-/5-/8-person cabins & treehouses CH$95,000/145,000/180,000; Ws)

This stunning complex of gravity-defying tree houses and cosy cabins is set 5km back from the beach within a 22-hectare forest reserve. Ruby-red boardwalks lead you from one art-filled cabin to the next, past a serene pool and an imaginative playground up to lookouts (with tree swings!) in the hills above.

Even if you don’t sleep here it’s worth a visit to hike its trails (entry per person CH$3000) or to eat seafood or pizzas at the highly recommended Gaba Restaurant. A taxi from central Buchupureo costs about CH$3000.

La Joya del MarB&B$$$

(%42-197-1733; www.lajoyadelmar.cl; Camino Buchupureo, Km8.5; 2-/5-person villas incl breakfast CH$115,000/150,000; Ws)

Rich tropical plants overhang the terraces, and the pool seems to merge with the view of the sea at this romantic spot run by a Californian family. The vibe spills over into the airy, glass-fronted farm-to-table restaurant (mains CH$9000 to CH$11,000, open noon to 10pm). The three villas can sleep two to five people.

El PuertoSEAFOOD$

(%cell 9-9161-2315; www.elpuertobuchupureo.cl; Playa La Boca s/n; mains CH$5000-7000; h9am-2am Jan & Feb, noon-midnight Mar-Dec)

This long-running hangout with a sundeck overlooking the sea serves up affordable seafood dishes and strong cocktails. Basic (though totally adequate) cabins line the hill above the restaurant, offering impeccable views at bargain-basement prices (4-person cabins CH$35,000).

oEl Chiringuito de PullaySEAFOOD$$

(%cell 9-9185-0344; www.facebook.com/ElChiringuitoDePullay; Playa Pullay s/n, Pullay; mains CH$6000-8000; hnoon-8pm Dec-Mar, weekends only Sep-Nov & Apr; c)

Fresh seasonal ingredients sourced from local farmers and fishers – that’s the philosophy behind this low-key beachfront restaurant with colorful wooden furniture. You can camp next to the restaurant (if you don’t mind cold showers; campsites per person CH$5000) or take English-language surf lessons (surf lessons CH$20,000; by reservation only).

8Getting There & Away

From Chillán’s Terminal de Buses Rurales, Via Itata (www.busesviaitata.cl) has at least one daily bus to Buchupureo (CH$2500, three hours) leaving at 7:40am. There are more frequent departures over the summer and on weekends. Magabus has four daily buses from Concepción (CH$4500) that pass through Cobquecura and connect it with Buchupureo and Pullay. Nilahue operates a direct bus from Santiago’s Terminal Sur to Cobquecura (CH$10,000, seven hours). There’s just one departure between April and November, and two departures December to March. High-season buses automatically go on to Buchupureo, but you’ll need to ask the driver to stop there in advance at other times of the year.

Concepción

%41 / POP 229,000 / ELEV 12M

Concepción is an important and hardworking port city that is best known for its universities and music scene (many of Chile’s best rock acts got their start here). There are a few plazas and museums worth checking out, and Spanish-speakers will be rewarded with an energetic and youthful arts, music and culture scene. The city sits on the northern bank of the Río Biobío, Chile’s only significant navigable waterway, about 10km from the river’s mouth. The metropolis seems to go on forever, with an estimated 950,000 people living in the greater area. ‘Conce,’ as it’s known locally, was terribly damaged in a February 2010 earthquake. It was also ravaged by looting and lawlessness during the aftershocks, but because of its economic importance, it was quickly rebuilt.

1Sights

La Casa del ArteMUSEUM

(%41-220-3835; http://extension.udec.cl/pinacoteca; cnr Avs Chacabuco & Paicaví, Barrio Universitario; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) F

The massive, fiercely political mural La Presencia de América Latina is the highlight of the university art museum La Casa del Arte. It’s by Mexican artist Jorge González Camarena, a protégé of the legendary muralist José Clemente Orozco, and celebrates Latin America’s indigenous peoples and independence from colonial and imperial powers.

For more socially minded artwork, take a stroll around the campus and check out the vibrant public murals covering nearly every wall.

Parque EcuadorPARK

(Av Lamas)

Parque Ecuador is a narrow stretch of well-maintained urban parkland that runs along the foot of Cerro Caracol – walk up one of the two access roads (continuations of Caupolicán and Tucapel) to a viewpoint with great views of Concepción.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

LOTA MINE TOUR

Concepción’s exponential industrial and economic growth owes much to the huge offshore coal deposits discovered south of the city along the so-called Costa del Carbón (Coal Coast). The hilly coastal town of Lota spiraled into poverty when the mines closed in 1997, resulting in some of the most deprived shantytowns in the country. However, it has now reinvented itself as a tourist destination and makes an interesting half-day trip from Concepción.

The star attraction is Mina Chiflón del Diablo (Devil’s Whistle Mine; %41-287-0917; www.lotasorprendente.cl; Antonio Ríos 1; 45min tours CH$7500, complete Lota tourist package with entry to mine, park & historical museum CH$8000; htours 10:30am-4:30pm), a naturally ventilated undersea mine that operated between 1852 and 1976. Ex–coal miners now work as guides on well-organized 45-minute tours (Spanish only) that take you through a series of galleries and tunnels to a coalface some 50m under the sea.

Before clambering into the rattling metal-cage elevator that takes you down, you’re kitted out with safety gear. You can also visit the Pueblito Minero, painstaking re-creations of typical miners’ houses built for the Chilean movie Sub Terra (Underground), which was filmed here.

Down the road, Parque Botánico Isidora Cousiño (%41-287-1022; www.lotasorprendente.cl; El Parque 21; adult/child CH$2500/1700; h10:30am-6pm) has manicured flower beds, small ponds and wilder woodland leading to a lighthouse on a tip of land jutting out into the sea.

To reach Lota from Concepción, catch a bus labeled ‘Coronel-Lota’ (CH$800, one hour, every 15 minutes). Ask the driver to drop you at the Iglesia Parroquial, then follow the signs downhill to the mine.

4Sleeping

Hostal B&B ConcepciónGUESTHOUSE$

(%41-318-9308; www.hostalboutiqueconcepcion.com; Ongolmo 62; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$20,000/33,500/41,000; pW)

Exceptionally clean rooms with comfy beds in a prime location near Plaza Peru. We only wish the breakfast was more generous, given how yummy the cakes and coffees are at the on-site cafe.

Hotel AlboradaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(%41-291-1121; www.hotelalborada.cl; Barros Arana 457; d incl breakfast from CH$56,000; pW)

A surprisingly stylish addition to Concepción’s hotel scene is this centrally located, coolly minimalist hotel. The public spaces – outfitted with all-white furnishings, glass and mirrors – are sleeker than the guest rooms themselves, which are spacious and comfortable, but standard.

5Eating

Deli HouseINTERNATIONAL$

(www.delihouse.cl; Av Diagonal Pedro Aguirre Cerda 1234; mains CH$3500-6500; h9:30am-11:30pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat, 12:30-4:30pm Sun; W)

These leafy sidewalk tables are a relaxed place to kick back for coffee, empanadas, gourmet pizza or happy hour while watching the bohemian university set pass by.

Café RometschCAFE$

(%41-274-7046; Barros Arana 685; mains CH$3500-7000; h9am-8pm)

Delicious cakes and gelato, generous salads and sandwiches, classy sidewalk tables on the plaza – need we say more?

oLo que más quieroCHILEAN$$

(%41-213-4938; Lincoyán 60; mains CH$6000-11,000; h11am-3pm & 6:30pm-midnight Mon-Fri)

Conce’s top restaurant is as unstuffy as the city itself, with a whimsical woodsy aesthetic and a secret garden out back. The menu includes the largest list of salads we’ve seen in Chile, as well as creative meat-heavy mains, delicious sandwiches and fresh juices. Don’t even think about coming without a reservation.

Fina EstampaPERUVIAN$$

(%41-222-1708; www.facebook.com/finaestampaconcepcion; Angol 298; mains CH$8000-10,000; h12:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun)

Starched tablecloths, fiercely folded napkins and deferential bow-tied waiters bring old-time elegance to this Peruvian restaurant. Ceviches, ají de gallina (chicken in a spicy yellow-pepper sauce) and other classics are perfectly executed, as is grilled seasonal fish.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oCasa de SaludBAR

(http://casadesalud.cl; Brasil 574; cover varies; h9:30pm-4am Wed-Sat)

A multisensory experience for the mind, body and soul, this labyrinthine space blurs the lines between bar, club, concert venue, art gallery and cultural center. What happens when all of those things become one? Come and find out!

Tostaduría de Café CoyoacánCOFFEE

(%cell 9-8739-1054; www.tostaduriacoyoacan.cl; Av Chacabuco 1111; h9am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2:30pm Sat; W)

The beans are roasted on-site at this cosy cafe by Universidad de Concepción; you won’t sip a fresher or richer espresso coffee anywhere else in town.

8Information

BancoEstado (O’Higgins 486; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) One of many banks with ATMs near Plaza Independencia.

Conaf (%41-262-4046; www.conaf.cl; Rengo 345; h8:30am-4:30pm Mon-Thu, to 3:30pm Fri) Limited info on national parks and reserves.

Hospital Regional (%41-272-2500; cnr San Martín & Av Roosevelt; h24hr) Public hospital.

Post Office (Correos de Chile; cnr O’Higgins & Colo Colo; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat) A central post office.

Sernatur (%41-274-1337; www.biobioestuyo.cl; Pinto 460; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat Jan & Feb, 8:30am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri Mar-Dec) On Plaza Independencia with info and brochures on the region.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

Concepción has two long-distance bus terminals. Most companies use the Terminal de Buses Collao (Tegualda 860), 3km east of central Concepción. From outside the terminal, grab a taxi into town.

There are dozens of daily services to Santiago: Eme Bus (%41-232-0094; www.emebus.cl; Tegualda 860), Pullman Bus (%600-320-3200; www.pullmanbus.cl; Tegualda 860), Nilahue (www.busesnilahue.cl; Tegualda 860) and Turbus (%600-660-6600; www.turbus.cl; Tucapel 530), which also goes to Valparaíso and south to Temuco, Valdivia and Puerto Montt.

Línea Azul (%42-203-800; www.buseslineaazul.cl/destinos.php; Tegualda 860, Terminal de Buses Collao) goes to Chillán (every 30 minutes). Pullman Bus connects Conce with Los Angeles every 30 minutes; some buses stop at the Salto del Laja. Buses Biobío has similar services and also goes to Angol every hour.

For services south along the coast, including Cañete, try Sol de Lebu (%41-251-2263; www.soldelebu.com; Tegualda 860, Terminal de Buses Collao).

Buses Biobío (www.busesbiobio.cl; Camilo Henríquez 2565, Terminal Camilo Henríquez) uses the separate Terminal Camilo Henríquez, northeast along the extension of Bulnes.

DESTINATION	COST (CH$)	HOURS
Angol	5000	3½
Chillán	2500	2
Los Angeles	2500	2
Lota	800	1
Puerto Montt	10,000	8
Santiago	8000	6½
Talcahuano	500	45 minutes
Temuco	8500	4
Valdivia	12,000	6
Valparaíso/Viña del Mar	9500	8

CAR

A car can be useful for exploring the national parks south of Concepción. Hertz (%41-279-7461; www.hertz.cl; Av Arturo Prat 248; cars per day from CH$30,000; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) has an office downtown.

Salto Del Laja

Halfway between Los Angeles and Chillán, the Río Laja plunges nearly 50m over a steep escarpment to form a horseshoe-shaped waterfall. Some have dubbed the sight a miniature Iguazú Falls when it’s full, but the comparison is far-fetched. Still, there are great views from where the road bridges the Río Laja. This road is the old Panamericana, but a new Ruta 5 bypass to the west means that only a few buses between Chillán and Los Angeles detour through here. A cluster of tacky souvenir stands and competing restaurants are evidence of the Salto del Laja’s popularity with Chileans on road trips or outings from nearby cities.

4Sleeping

Los ManantialesRESORT$

(%43-231-4275; www.losmanantiales.saltosdellaja.com; Variante Salto del Laja, Km480; campsites for up to 6 people CH$34,000, s/d CH$35,000/40,000; iWs)

To linger longer at Salto del Laja, check into Los Manantiales, a popular budget hotel with a large restaurant that has spectacular views over the falls. Wood-paneled rooms are spacious and clean, and the decor of the whole complex seems gloriously unchanged since the 1970s.

Hotel Salto del LajaRESORT$$

(%43-232-1706; www.saltodellaja.cl; Ruta 5 Sur, Km485; s/d incl breakfast from CH$62,000/72,000; iWs)

The area’s most upmarket option has spacious, well-appointed rooms with spectacular waterfall views. There’s also a nine-hole golf course (included in the price), guided trekking and even an on-site microbrewery.

8Getting There & Away

Several companies, including Buses Jota Be (%41-286-1533), offer services to Salto del Laja every 30 minutes from the Terminal de Buses Rurales in Los Angeles (CH$1000, 45 minutes). Pullman Bus (%600-320-3200; www.pullman.cl; Av Sor Vicenta 2051, Terminal Santa María) offers a similar service from Terminal Santa María in Los Angeles. Some buses traveling between Chillán and Los Angeles also stop here, but be sure to confirm ahead of time.

Los Angeles

%43 / POP 169,929

A useful base for visiting Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja, Los Angeles is an otherwise unprepossessing agricultural and industrial service center 110km south of Chillán.

4Sleeping & Eating

oResidencial El RincónLODGE$$

(%cell 9-9082-3168; www.elrinconchile.cl; Sector El Olivo s/n; r incl breakfast CH$48,000-61,000, without bathroom CH$40,000; W)

With its gorgeous rural setting 19km north of Los Angeles, the American-run Residencial El Rincón is a relaxing place to take time out from traveling. The lodge has cozy, all-wood rooms and serves fabulous homemade breakfasts and dinners (three-course dinner CH$16,000).

Cafe FrancésFRENCH$

(%43-223-4461; www.facebook.com/cafefrances; Colo Colo 696; mains CH$3000-4500; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; W)

Stop by this simple French cafe for espresso coffee, sandwiches, salads and cakes, as well as sweet or savory crepes.

8Getting There & Away

Long-distance buses leave from two adjacent bus terminals on Av Sor Vicenta, the continuation of Villagrán, on the northeast outskirts of town.

Turbus (%43-240-2003; www.turbus.cl) leaves from the Turbus terminal (Av Sor Vicenta 2061) and has numerous daily departures to Santiago (CH$7500, seven hours), most of which stop at Talca and Curicó. Over 20 daily services head south to Temuco (CH$4900, two hours), Osorno (CH$8500, seven hours) and Puerto Montt (CH$10,000, eight hours). Buses Bio Bio (www.busesbiobio.cl) runs regular services from this terminal to Concepción (CH$3700, 1½ hours), Chillán (CH$3000, two hours) and Angol (CH$1500, two hours), the gateway to Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta.

All other bus companies use the next-door Terminal Santa María (Av Sor Vicenta 2051). From here Pullman Bus runs regular services to Salto del Laja (CH$1000, 45 minutes, every 30 minutes), as well as Temuco, Osorno and Puerto Montt (with times and prices similar to Turbus).

Local bus companies, including Jota Be (%43-253-3918), operate out of the Terminal de Buses Rurales (Terminal Vega Techada; Villagrán 501), on the corner of Rengo near the Vega Techada market. You’ll find frequent departures for Salto del Laja here.

Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja

Located some 93km east of Los Angeles lies the 116-sq-km Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (%cell 9-6642-6899; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-laguna-del-laja; adult/child CH$3000/1500; h8:30am-8pm Dec-Apr, to 6:30pm May-Nov). Within the park is the symmetrical cone of Volcán Antuco (2985m). Lava from this volcano dammed the Río Laja, creating the lake that gives the park its name. The lava fields immediately around the lake form an eerie lunar landscape. Although the volcano may seem quiet, it is not extinct: volcanic activity was last recorded about 25 years ago.

The park protects the mountain cypress (Austrocedrus chilensis) and the monkey-puzzle tree, as well as other uncommon tree species. Mammals are rare, though puma, fox and viscacha have been sighted. Nearly 50 bird species inhabit the area, including the Andean condor.

There is a small Conaf post at Los Pangues, the park entrance, where you sign in. From here, you can travel along a winding road to the park headquarters at Chacay, 3km on.

2Activities

Sendero Sierra VelludaHIKING

The park’s star trek is the 4.6km Sendero Sierra Velluda, named for the hanging glacier you pass along the way. It winds through a forest of mountain cypress, passing waterfalls and lava fields; condors are also a common sight.

ChacayHIKING

The starting point for several well-marked hiking trails. On the left-hand side of the road is the easy 1.6km trail to two small, stunning waterfalls, the Salto de Las Chilcas (where the underground Río Laja emerges) and the Salto del Torbellino. On the right is Sendero Los Coigües, a 1.7km hike to a spot with fabulous views of Volcán Antuco.

Centro de Esquí Volcán AntucoSKIING

(%43-232-2651; www.skiantuco.cl; Los Carrera s/n; lift ticket CH$20,000)

In winter the Club de Esqui de Los Angeles operates two drag-lifts and a small restaurant (mains CH$7000) at these ski slopes on the edge of the volcano near Chacay.

4Sleeping

Centro TuristicoCABAñAS$$

(%cell 9-8221-2078; www.parqueantuco.cl; 1km past park entrance; campsites per person CH$5000, 4-/6-/7-person cabins CH$45,000/60,000/70,000; s)

This privately run complex has well-equipped two-story A-frame cabins that are built of wood and stone and lie in a valley at the entrance to the park, offering humbling views of the mountains above. There are also 22 campsites with clean bathrooms and hot-water showers.

8Getting There & Away

Departing from Los Angeles’ Terminal de Buses Rurales, local buses go through Antuco to the village of El Abanico, 11km from the entrance to Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja (CH$2000, two hours, six daily). The last bus back to Los Angeles leaves Abanico at 8pm. Note that there’s no public transportation between Abanico and the park. It takes about 1½ hours to walk this stretch, and another half hour to reach the campsites and cabins of the Centro Turistico. Hitchhiking is technically possible, but vehicles are a rare sight on weekdays. If you’re driving, you’ll need a 4WD and chains to negotiate this road between May and September.

Angol

%45 / POP 56,204

Despite a turbulent and interesting history – the village was razed on six separate occasions during the conflict between the Mapuche and the conquistadores – Angol’s only real appeal is its easy access into mountainous Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta.

The town straddles the Río Vergara, an upper tributary of the Biobío formed by the confluence of the Ríos Picoiquén and Rehue. The city’s older core lies west of the river and centers on the attractive Plaza de Armas. The plaza has huge, shady trees, well-kept flower beds and a fountain adorned by four gloriously poised marble statues that represent Europe, Asia, the Americas and Africa.

zFestivals & Events

Brotes de ChileMUSIC

(www.festivalbrotesdechile.cl; hJan)

One of Chile’s biggest folk festivals takes over this small town in mid-January. Come for traditional music, food and crafts.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hotel AngolHOTEL$

(%45-271-9036; Lautaro 176; d incl breakfast CH$33,000; W)

These 11 simple, centrally located rooms come with private bathrooms and cable TV. Check-in is downstairs at the nondescript Café la Rueda, which is open to the public.

DuhataoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

(%45-271-4320; www.hotelduhatao.cl; Arturo Prat 420; s/d incl breakfast CH$39,500/59,500; W)

Here’s a surprise: there’s a design hotel in Angol. The Duhatao blends clean modern lines with local crafts and colors – handwoven throws cover the springy beds and bathrooms have big bowl sinks. The slick on-site restaurant and bar is the only place in town open on a Sunday.

Sparlatto PizzaPIZZA$$

(www.sparlatto.cl; Bunster 389; mains CH$5000-9000; h9:30am-12:30am Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat)

This bustling little restaurant on the plaza serves steak sandwiches, salads, Chilean comfort food and pizza. In the evening it fills up with a younger, beer-drinking crowd.

8Getting There & Away

Most long-distance bus services leave from Angol’s Terminal Rodoviario (Bonilla 448), a 1km walk from the Plaza de Armas. To get to the center of town, turn left from the main exit and walk four blocks along José Luis Osorio to O’Higgins, the main road, where you turn right and cross the bridge.

Several companies run multiple daily services north to Santiago (CH$7000–CH$10,000, eight hours), including Pullman JC (%45-764-2960), Línea Azul (www.buseslineaazul.cl/destinos.php) and Turbus (%45-268-6117; www.turbus.cl; Terminal Rodoviario). The latter also serves Chillán (CH$5100, three hours, two daily), Los Angeles (CH$1500, one hour, six daily) and Valparaíso (CH$12,000, nine hours, 10:15pm).

Leaving from its own terminal, Buses Bio Bio (www.busesbiobio.cl; Julio Sepúlveda 550) serves Los Angeles (CH$1600, one hour, 12 daily) and Concepción (CH$4900, 3½ hours, 15 daily).

Local and regional services leave from the Terminal de Buses Rurales (Ilabaca 422), including buses toward Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta.

WORTH A TRIP

CAÑETE

On the far side of Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta from Angol lies the Mapuche stronghold of Cañete, home to the Museo Mapuche (Mapuche Museum of Cañete; %41-261-1093; www.museomapuchecanete.cl; Camino Contulmo s/n; h9:30am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat, from 1pm Sun) F. Pottery, textiles, silver jewelry, woven objects and ceremonial trumpets are just some of the items on display within this striking building, which takes its round shape from a ruka (traditional thatched Mapuche house). Even most Chileans can’t make head or tail of the wild menu at nearby La Sazón (%41-261-9710; Arturo Prat 626; mains CH$6000-9000; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun), which draws inspiration from Mapuche cooking techniques. Unfamiliar ingredients you can try here include nalca (Chilean rhubarb), harina tostada (toasted flour) and tart murtilla berries. It’s impossible to get to Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta by public transportation from this side, but the city makes a great base for those traveling by car. Alternatively, Cañete-based Parque Ecológico Reussland (%cell 9-5659-1472; www.reussland.cl; Ruta P-60 R, Km33; cabins from CH$42,000, five-day all-inclusive tour CH$294,000) offers five-day English-language tours of the region (including horseback riding, trekking in Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta and visits to the surrounding Mapuche cultural sites) with pickup and drop-off in Concepción. This private reserve also has two-story capsule-like cabins in the woods for those passing through.

Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta

Between Angol and the Pacific, the coast range rises to 1550m within the 68-sq-km Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta (www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-nahuelbuta; adult/child CH$5000/3000; h8:30am-6pm). This is one of the last non-Andean refuges of araucarias (monkey-puzzle trees), the arboreal equivalent of fireworks. In summer other interesting plant life includes 16 orchid varieties and two carnivorous plant species. Various species of Nothofagus (southern beech) are common here, and the Magellanic woodpeckers that typically inhabit them make for great bird-watching. Rare mammals such as pumas, Darwin’s fox and the miniature Chilean deer known as the pudú also live in the park. According to some, it’s a prime location for UFO-spotting too.

The dirt road between Angol and Cañete runs through the park. Conaf maintains the park headquarters and information center at Pehuenco, roughly halfway between the two park entrances, which are sometimes staffed by rangers. The area enjoys warm, dry summers, but is usually snow-covered during winter.

2Activities

Cerro Piedra del ÁguilaHIKING

The park’s most popular hike is an easy 4.5km walk through araucaria forests to the 1379m granite outcrop of Cerro Piedra del Águila (literally ‘Eagle Rock’), which has fabulous views from the Andes to the Pacific. To the southeast you can see the entire string of Andean volcanoes, from Antuco, east of Chillán, to Villarrica and Lanín, east of Pucón.

You can loop back to Pehuenco via the valley of the Estero Cabrería to the south: the trail starts beneath the west side of the outcrop and the whole hike takes about three hours. Alternatively, you can reach Piedra del Águila by walking 800m from the end of a shorter approach accessible by car.

Cerro AnayHIKING

This trail leads 5km north from Pehuenco to Cerro Anay, a 1450m hill with great views. It’s an easy four-hour walk past wildflower beds and huge stands of araucarias.

4Sleeping

Camping PehuencoCAMPGROUND$

(www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-nahuelbuta; 6-person campsites CH$14,000)

Next to the park headquarters, 5.5km from the entrance on the Angol side of the park, there are 11 campsites in shady forest clearings with picnic tables plus basic bathrooms with flush toilets and cold showers.

8Getting There & Away

Several local bus lines, including Buses Carrasco (%045-715-287) and Buses Moncada (%045-714-090), depart Angol at 6:45am and 4pm for Vegas Blanca (CH$1700, 1½ hours), 7km from the eastern park entrance and 12.5km from the park headquarters at Pehuenco. Some lines go on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, others on alternate days. All leave from Angol’s Terminal de Buses Rurales, and return from Vegas Blancas at around 9am and 6pm (confirm these times so you don’t get stranded). In January and February the morning service usually continues to the park entrance. Motorists with low-clearance vehicles may find the steep and dusty road difficult in spots, and you need a 4WD and chains June through August.

Mountain bikers generally need to dismount and walk at least part of the way up; note that water is hard to find along the way. However, local buses to Vegas Blancas are generally happy to carry bikes, so cycling from there is an option.

ARCHIPIÉLAGO JUAN FERNÁNDEZ

Pirates, shipwrecks, political prisoners and (perhaps!) buried treasure all make cameo appearances in the Hollywood-worthy history of this remote chain of small volcanic islands 667km west of Valparaíso. This is the place where castaway Alexander Selkirk (inspiration for Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe) whittled away lost years scampering after goats and scanning the horizon for ships. Once an anonymous waypoint for marauders, sealers and war ships, the archipelago was later declared both a national park and a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, with 62% of its flora found nowhere else on Earth.

There are three main volcanic islands in the chain. Robinson Crusoe, previously known as Más A Tierra, is the main tourist hub, while Alejandro Selkirk and Santa Clara islands are seldom visited. Small-scale sustainable tourism is the shared mantra, with hiking, diving and fishing the biggest draws.

History

In November 1574 Portuguese mariner Juan Fernández veered off course between Peru and Valparaíso and discovered these islands that now bear his name. Unlike Easter Island, there are no historical records of visits to the islands by either Polynesians or Native Americans. In following centuries the islands proved a popular stop-off for ships skirting around the Humboldt Current. Pirates sought refuge in the few bays – hunting feral goats and planting gardens to stock future visits – and traffic increased with sealers.

In the early 19th century, one island played a notorious role in Chile’s independence struggle, as Spanish authorities exiled 300 criollo patriots to damp caves above San Juan Bautista after the disastrous Battle of Rancagua in 1814. The patriots in exile included Juan Egaña and Manuel de Salas, figures from the Chilean elite who would not quickly forget their cave-dwelling days.

Chile established a permanent settlement in 1877. For many years the island remained an escape-proof political prison for the newly independent country. During WWI it again played a memorable historic role, as the British naval vessels Glasgow, Kent and Orama confronted the German cruiser Dresden at Bahía Cumberland.

This Pacific outpost has made headlines in recent times for two major tragedies: first, the islands’ infrastructure was badly damaged in the tsunami following the 2010 earthquake, prompting action from a charity foundation, Desafío Levantemos Chile (Together We Pick Up Chile), intent on rebuilding after the disaster. And in September 2011, a group of prominent Chilean TV journalists and crew from the morning program Buenos Días a Todos boarded a plane to the islands to film a segment on the reconstruction efforts. The plane crashed near Isla Robinson Crusoe, killing all 21 passengers, shocking the Chilean public and sending the islands into a further tailspin. The islands have since recovered, but the campaign to woo back travelers remains ongoing.

8Getting There & Away

From Santiago, three airlines operate flights to Juan Fernández. There are usually daily flights between September and April, with fewer departures the rest of the year. The 2¼-hour flight takes six to 12 passengers and there is typically a 10kg weight restriction for luggage; note that climate is a major factor with flight schedules – foul weather on the island can provoke last-minute departure changes and cancellations.

Flights with Aerocardal (%2-2377-7400; www.aerocardal.com) and ATA (%2-2611-3670; www.aerolineasata.cl) depart from Santiago’s International Airport, while Lassa (%2-2322-3300; lassaisla@hotmail.com) operates out of Santiago’s Aeródromo Tobalaba. Upon arrival at the island, passengers take a one-hour boat taxi (included in the airfare) to the pier of San Juan Bautista. Return flights require a minimum number of passengers to depart, so keep travel arrangements flexible enough to allow for an extra day or two on the island. Consult the airlines for prices, but count on paying upwards of CH$550,000 round-trip.

It is possible to reach Robinson Crusoe by sea from Valparaíso aboard the cargo ship MN Antonio (%32-229-1336, cell 9-5858-4667; www.transmarko.cl; 1-way/return ticket CH$100,000/170,000), which makes the voyage twice each month. The crossing takes between 40 and 45 hours and the ship has capacity for just 12 passengers. MN Antonio typically stays in the archipelago for two to five days before returning to the mainland, making it possible to do a round-trip journey of between seven and 10 days, leaving ample room for schedule changes.

San Juan Bautista

The sole inhabited town on Isla Robinson Crusoe, San Juan Bautista (St John the Baptist) is the proverbial sleepy fishing village, down to the lobster catchers in knitted caps, and dusty stores that run out of cheese and vegetables before the provision ship arrives. Doors here rarely have locks and islanders still greet every passerby with a warm hello.

Most of the town’s lower half was completely rebuilt after the 2010 tsunami. The steep hills at its spine are strewn with lush gardens and modest cottages with paths leading into horse pastures and wooded hiking trails.

San Juan Bautista

1Sights

1Cuevas de los PatriotasA3

2Fuerte Santa BárbaraA2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Centro Náutico Robinson CrusoeA3

4SalsipuedesA1

4Sleeping

5Hostal Mirador de SelkirkA2

6Hostería Petit BreulhA3

7La Robinson OceanicB4

8Refugio NaúticoB4

5Eating

9Salvaje Sándalo Restobar & HospedajeB4

1Sights & Activities

Getting into the water around Robinson Crusoe is like slipping into a great abyss: this idiosyncratic ecosystem hosts world-class scuba diving. Moray eels, flounder, lobsters and enormous schools of yellowtail troll the clear waters, but the biggest attraction is the playful Juan Fernández fur seal (Arctocephalus philippii). You can also swim, snorkel, kayak or SUP in Bahía Cumberland when the seas are calm.

Cuevas de los PatriotasCAVE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP)

Up a short footpath from Baron de Rodt and illuminated at night, these damp caverns sheltered Juan Egaña, Manuel de Salas and 300 other patriots exiled for several years during Chile’s independence movement after their defeat in the Battle of Rancagua in 1814.

Fuerte Santa BárbaraFORT

(MAP GOOGLE MAP)

Built in 1749 to discourage incursions by pirates, these Spanish fortifications were reconstructed in 1974. To reach them, follow the path from Cuevas de los Patriotas, or climb directly from the plaza via Subida El Castillo. The track continues to Mirador de Selkirk.

Centro Náutico Robinson CrusoeWATER SPORTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6493-6892; Av Von Rodt 345; 2hr wetsuit & snorkel rental CH$2000, 2hr kayak/SUP rental CH$3000; h11am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun)

This water-sports center was set up as a public service for islanders, but it also offers tourists super-cheap rentals of kayaks, SUPs, wetsuits and snorkels.

Daniel Paredes GónzalezWALKING

(%cell 9-7140-5488; paredesgonzalezdanieldagoberto@gmail.com; city tour for 2-4 people from CH$30,000)

Surely one of the most unique tours in all of Chile. Daniel sings the history of the island while strumming his ukulele and ushering you through the town’s most important sites. Songs are all in Spanish, though the tour can be conducted in limited English too.

Daniel can also arrange boat trips to as far away as Isla Alejandro Selkirk (a 12- to 14-hour overnight journey, CH$3,500,000) on his 15m boat.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hostería Petit BreulhGUESTHOUSE$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9549-9033; petitrobinsoncrusoe@gmail.com; Vicente González 80; r per person CH$28,000, incl half board CH$38,000; W)

Bedside minibars, dark leather, massage showers and cable TV make this a comfortable, if aging, spot to crash. Meals (CH$6500–CH$9000) are showstoppers – think ceviche with capers and zucchini stuffed with fresh fish and baked under bubbling cheese. Nonguests should make reservations.

Hostal Mirador de SelkirkGUESTHOUSE$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-275-1028, cell 9-9550-5305; mfernandeziana@hotmail.com; Pasaje del Castillo 251; r per person incl breakfast CH$35,000; i)

High on the hillside, this family home has six snug rooms and a sprawling deck overlooking the bay (where you recover your breath from the hike up). Señora Julia serves up fantastic meals (from CH$6000). Foodies shouldn’t miss her lobster empanadas or seafood parol (stew).

La Robinson OceanicLODGE$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7135-9974; www.lro.cl; Carrera Pinto 198; r per person incl breakfast CH$45,000) S

Unique wood-hewn rooms (some with a kitchenette) surround a gorgeously landscaped garden with a hot tub and a deck overlooking the sea. Sports-fishing and scuba-diving trips are the big draws here, and guests often cook up their catch with the owners over a shared dinner.

Refugio NaúticoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7483-5014; www.islarobinsoncrusoe.cl; Carrera Pinto 280; s/d incl half board CH$98,000/186,000)

This waterfront refuge has a hot tub, a kitchen and all the comforts of home. The bright terraced rooms are quite small for the price, but the communal living area is brimming with books, DVDs and music – perfect for a rainy day, or for your postmeal coma. The on-site Lord Anson Restaurant is the best on the island.

Kayak rentals, hiking and dive trips are available through the PADI-certified dive center, located by the pier. Credit cards are accepted.

Salvaje Sándalo Restobar & HospedajeSEAFOOD$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6835-3272; www.facebook.com/salvajiandola; Carrera Pinto 296; mains CH$7000-9000; h4-10pm Wed, Thu & Sun, to midnight Fri & Sat)

This friendly seafront restobar offers pizza, ceviche, empanadas and more. Locals come here for the good tunes and long list of cocktails – everything from negronis to mojitos and creative pisco sours. There’s a spacious guest room above the restaurant with huge windows to take in the sea breeze (s/d incl breakfast CH$30,000/50,000).

SELKIRK: THE QUINTESSENTIAL CASTAWAY

Más a Tierra, today known as Isla Robinson Crusoe, was the long-time home of one of the world’s most famous castaways (no, not Tom Hanks or his volleyball Wilson). After ongoing disputes with his captain over the seaworthiness of the privateer Cinque Ports, Scotsman Alexander Selkirk requested to be put ashore on the island in 1704. He would spend four years and four months marooned here before his rescue. Abandonment was tantamount to a death sentence for most castaways in this day, who soon starved or shot themselves, but Selkirk adapted to his new home and endured, despite his desperate isolation.

Although the Spaniards vigorously opposed privateers in their domains, their foresight made Selkirk’s survival possible. Thanks to them, unlike many small islands, Más a Tierra had abundant game. Disdaining fish, Selkirk tracked feral goats (introduced by earlier sailors), devoured their meat and dressed himself in their skins. He crippled and tamed some of the goats for easier hunting. Sea lions, feral cats and rats – the latter two European introductions – were among his other companions. Selkirk would often climb to a lookout above Bahía Cumberland (Cumberland Bay) in hope of spotting a vessel on the horizon, but not until 1708 did his savior, Commander Woodes Rogers of the British privateers Duke and Duchess, arrive with famed privateer William Dampier as his pilot. Rogers recalled his first meeting with Selkirk when the ship’s men returned from shore. He called him ‘a man Cloth’d in Goat-Skins, who look’d wilder than the first Owners of them.’

After signing on with Rogers and returning to Scotland, Selkirk became a celebrity and the inspiration for a rag-tag army of reality shows, theme-park rides and great literature alike. Daniel Defoe’s classic Robinson Crusoe is thought to be inspired by Selkirk. Other worthy reads include Captain Woodes Rogers’ A Cruising Voyage Round the World, by Selkirk’s rescuer; Robinson Crusoe’s Island (1969) by Ralph Lee Woodward; and Nobel Prize winner JM Coetzee’s revisionist novel Foe (1986).

Traditional biography was cast away when British writer Diane Souhami made a portrait of the man through the place. Her take, Selkirk’s Island, won the 2001 Whitbread Biography Award. While in the archipelago researching, Souhami became intrigued with the way the island pared down modern life, leaving what was essential. Souhami noted how Selkirk’s relationship to the island he once cursed changed postrescue. ‘He started calling it “my beautiful island,”’ said Souhami. ‘It became the major relationship in his life.’

8Information

Wi-fi is virtually nonexistent on the island, though you can usually find it at the Casa de la Cultura near Conaf’s administrative headquarters.

There are no banks or money changers on Isla Robinson Crusoe, so bring pesos, preferably in small bills. Some businesses take US dollars or euros, albeit at poor rates. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside of higher-end guesthouses.

8Getting There & Away

There are two ways to get to San Juan Bautista from the airport on the far side of Isla Robinson Crusoe. Most people take the one-hour boat taxi (included in the price of your plane ticket), but you can also send your luggage on the boat and arrange for a trekking guide to meet you at the airstrip (CH$45,000 for up to five people). It’s a 19km hike from the airstrip to San Juan Bautista, traversing spectacular island scenery.

Parque Nacional Archipielago Juan Fernandez

This national park (%cell 9-9542-1209; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-archipielago-de-juan-fernandez; 7-day park pass adult/child CH$5000/2500) covers the entire archipelago, a total of 93 sq km, though the township of San Juan Bautista and the airstrip are de facto exclusions. In an effort to control access to the most fragile areas of the park, Conaf requires many of the longer hikes to be organized and led by local registered guides. A list of guides is posted at the kiosk near the plaza, where you should register before taking any self-guided hike. Day hikes for a group of five people cost CH$25,000 to CH$50,000. Still, a number of areas are accessible without guides. Another way to see the park is by boat. Local tour operators can arrange trips to see fur-seal colonies.

2Activities

Mirador de SelkirkHIKING

Perhaps the most rewarding and stunning hike on the island is to Selkirk’s mirador above San Juan Bautista, where he would look for ships appearing on the horizon. The 3km walk, gaining 565m in elevation, takes about 1½ hours of steady walking but rewards the climber with views of both sides of the island.

As you walk up, look for the signpost marking a path to the supposed ruins of Selkirk’s hut.

Villagra to La Punta de IslaHIKING

Beyond Selkirk’s overlook, the trail continues on the south side, taking one hour to reach Villagra (4.8km), where there are campsites. From here the wide trail skirts the southern cliffs to La Punta de Isla (13km; approximately four hours) and the airstrip.

En route is Bahía Tierras Blancas, the island’s main breeding colony of Juan Fernández fur seals. This reasonably challenging hike takes in a significant part of the island and is an excellent way to enjoy its serenity. From Villagra guided hikes go to the base of Cerro El Yunque and Cerro Negro (3.5km), where there are natural swimming holes.

Plazoleta El YunqueHIKING

Plazoleta El Yunque is a tranquil forest clearing with bathrooms, water, and picnic and camping areas at the base of the 915m-high Cerro El Yunque (The Anvil). You’ll pass the crumbled foundation of the home of a German survivor of the Dresden who once homesteaded here.

An elevated walking path runs from here into a preserved patch of native forest. This is one of the best spots for viewing the Juan Fernández hummingbird.

Puerto FrancésHIKING

Puerto Francés on the island’s eastern shore was a haven for French privateers, whose presence motivated Spain to erect a series of fortifications in 1779, the ruins of which are all but gone. From Cerro Centinela, a 6.4km trail reaches the port where there are five campsites, a refugio (only available in poor weather), running water and a bathroom.

Puerto InglésHIKING

Take a boat taxi to the stone beach at Puerto Vaquería (a great spot for birders) and hike with a guide to Puerto Inglés to learn about the ‘hidden treasure’ that American millionaire Bernard Keiser has been searching for in a cave here over the past 20 years.

SalsipuedesHIKING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP)

At the top of La Pólvora, a trail zigzags through eucalyptus groves, then endemic ferns, then thickets of murtilla to reach the ridge Salsipuedes, which translates to ‘Leave if You Can.’

CentinelaHIKING

Cerro Centinela (362m) holds the ruins of the first radio station on the island, which was established in 1909. The 3km hike is accessed from Pangal.