Norte Chico
La Serena
South of La Serena
Elqui Valley
Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt
Huasco Valley
Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe
Copiapó
Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces
Ojos del Salado
Caldera
Bahía Inglesa
Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar
Norte Chico
Why Go?
For such a small sliver of land, Chile’s Norte Chico (Little North) offers up fantastic diversity. La Serena, a coastal colonial capital and the region’s largest city, is a must-see for anybody visiting. From there, move on to the mystical Elqui Valley: the verdant home to Chile’s pisco producers, new-age communes and cutting-edge observatories. Further north are some amazing national parks, a trendy little beach hideaway, and kilometers of uncharted coastline just waiting for you to set up camp or charge out for an afternoon surf.
Wildlife lovers won’t want to miss the playful penguins of Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt and Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar. And high in the Andes, the seldom-visited Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces is a great place to spot vicuña and flamingos. Despite its diminutive moniker, the Little North is actually quite a bit bigger than most people expect.
When to Go
- Jan–Feb Chileans on vacation storm the beaches, making hotel options scarcer and sights crowded.
- Jul–Aug Temperatures drop dramatically at night but days are warm and blissfully free of crowds.
- Sep–Nov Catch the storied sight of the flowering desert, best in Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe.
Best Places to Stay
Norte Chico Highlights
1 Elqui Valley Taking in captivating scenery, serene villages and historic pisco distilleries.
2 Bahía Inglesa Spending the day on a pretty beach followed by a night of seafood feasting in Norte Chico’s coolest little beach town.
3 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar Hiking desert trails and finding a slice of paradise on untouched sands.
4 La Serena Strolling through colonial streets, then playing on the broad beachfront just outside town.
5 Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces Getting off the beaten track amid high-Andean lagoons and herds of guanacos.
6 Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt Spotting penguin colonies, marine birds and dolphins during a memorable boat ride.
7 Norte Chico Observatories Marveling at the star-filled night sky with astronomers pointing out distant galaxies.
8 Vicuña Overnighting in this peaceful village while visiting Gabriel Mistral sites, solar-powered eateries and craft-brew joints.
La Serena
%051 / POP 218,000
Chile’s second-oldest city and the thriving capital of Región IV, La Serena is doubly blessed with some beautiful architecture and a long golden shoreline, making it a kind of thinking-person’s beach resort. The city absorbs hoards of Chilean holidaymakers in January and February, though it is fairly peaceful outside the summer rush. Sauntering through downtown La Serena reveals dignified stone churches, tree-shaded avenues and some pretty plazas. Some of the city’s architecture is from the colonial era, but most is actually neocolonial – the product of Serena-born president Gabriel González Videla’s ‘Plan Serena’ of the late 1940s.
La Serena also has numerous attractions in the surrounding countryside, with pretty villages and pisco vineyards aplenty, as well as international astronomical observatories that take advantage of the region’s exceptional atmospheric conditions and clear skies.
1Sights
Jardín del CorazónPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Parque Japonés Kokoro No Niwa; Eduardo de la Barra; adult/child CH$1000/300; 
h10am-7:40pm daily Dec-Mar, to 5:40pm Tue-Sun Apr-Nov)
With its trickling brooks, drifting swans and neatly manicured rock gardens, this Japanese garden makes an idyllic escape from the city bustle. Don’t miss the greenhouse collection of adorable bonsai trees in diminutive forms of ciruela (cherry), higuera (fig) and ficus trees.
Patio ColonialAREA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Balmaceda 432; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat)
Tucked off Balmaceda, this small, picturesque lane is dotted with shops and eateries. The patio in back feels like a secret getaway from the city-center bustle, and makes a fine spot for an alfresco coffee or snack.
Mercado La RecovaMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Cantournet & Cienfuegos; h10am-8pm)
La Serena’s most vibrant market offers a jumble of dried fruits, rain sticks and artisan jewelry, plus a wide range of Andean wool clothing and crafts. It’s a handy spot for gift ideas.
Museo Histórico Casa Gabriel González VidelaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Matta 495; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) 
F
Although richly stocked with general historical artifacts, this two-story museum in an 18th-century mansion concentrates on one of La Serena’s best-known (and most controversial) sons. González Videla was Chile’s president 1946 to 1952. Ever the cunning politician, he took power with communist support but then promptly outlawed the party, driving poet Pablo Neruda out of the Senate and into exile. Treachery aside, González Videla was the world’s first head of state to visit Antarctica (in 1948).
Head upstairs for a look at curios from the past, including 19th-century drawings of La Serena, elaborate saddles and leather boxes, and some rather dangerous-looking drinking horns.
Museo ArqueológicoMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museoarqueologicolaserena.cl; cnr Cordovez & Cienfuegos; h9:30am-5:50pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
Inside a crescent-shaped building with a leafy patio, this museum makes an ambitious attempt to corral Chile’s pre-Columbian past. Its highlights include an Atacameña mummy, a hefty 2.5m-high moai (large anthropomorphic statue) from Easter Island and interesting Diaguita artifacts that include a dinghy made from sea-lion hide.
At the time of writing the museum was closed for long-term renovations and was scheduled to open sometime in 2019.
Iglesia San FranciscoCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Balmaceda 640; h9am-6pm)
The granddaddy of all La Serena’s churches is a colonial marvel, two blocks southeast of the plaza and built in the early 1600s. It’s a stone construction, with a tower and fancy baroque facade.
2Activities
A bike path runs all the way to Coquimbo; Varous guesthouses rent bikes for around CH$8000 per day including Hostal El Punto and Hostal Tierra Diaguita.
Other activities include sailing, surfing and windsurfing (but keep an eye on swimmers within 200m of the beach or you’ll run afoul of the Gobernación Marítima). Playa Totoralillo, south of Coquimbo, is rated highly for its surf breaks and windsurfing potential. Poisson (%cell 9-9138-2383; Av del Mar 1001; h8am-9pm) rents surfboards for CH$5000 per hour.
Oficina del Observatorio Interamericano Cerro TololoOUTDOORS
(%51-220-5200; www.ctio.noao.edu; Colina El Pino, Casilla 603; h8:30am-12:45pm & 2-5:30pm Mon-Fri)
Head to this office in La Serena to pick up a permit to visit the Observatorio Interamericano Cerro Tololo. The office is about 2.5km southeast of Plaza de Armas.
CCourses
Sandal MakingWORKSHOP
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9386-7576; http://leatherhandcraft.blogspot.com; Las Rojas 18; course including supplies CH$15,000) 
S
Francisco ‘Pancho’ Pizarro, a skilled shoemaker who also helps run Maria’s Casa guesthouse, leads a workshop for those interested in making their own pair of leather sandals. You choose the color and design; the soles are made from the treads of recycled Firestone tires.
It takes about two hours; at the end you can walk out in your new stylized footwear.
La Serena SchoolLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-1487; www.laserenaschool.cl; Rodríguez 450)
Offers Spanish courses (from CH$24,000 per hour).
TTours
Agencies offer a wealth of excursions, ranging from national-park visits to nighttime astronomical trips, and pisco-tasting tours to new-age jaunts in UFO central, Cochiguaz. Traditional excursions include half-day city tours (from CH$28,000), full-day trips through the Elqui Valley (from CH$30,000), Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge and Valle del Encanto (from CH$40,000), and Parque Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt (around CH$50,000). Agencies also provide excursions to the observatories, mainly to Mamalluca (CH$25,000). If there is demand, they will also do trips to Andacollo as well as treks to mines (the so-called Ruta del Quarzo) located nearby. The minimum passenger number ranges from two to six.
Ecoturismo La SerenaOUTDOORS
(%cell 9-7495-2666; www.ecoturismolaserena.cl; Francisco de Aguirre 76; full-day tours CH$50,000)
This outfitter offers a good range of day tours, including to the Elqui Valley (CH$30,000), boat trips in the Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt (Isla Damas, from CH$46,000) and nighttime stargazing in the valley’s observatories (CH$25,000).
Discounts available if you pay in cash.
Planeta TurismoADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-4396; www.talinaychile.com; Balmcaceda 432; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat)
Offers the usual spread of tours (Elqui Valley, astronomy tours etc), as well as more adventurous activities such as mountain biking in Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge, kayaking off Playa Herradura (CH$25,000) and horseback riding in the Elqui Valley (from CH$25,000).
Tembeta ToursCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-5553; www.tembeta.cl; Andres Bello 870; day tours from CH$35,000)
Offers the full spectrum of tours around the region, including trips to Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge, the Elqui Valley, the Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt and astronomy tours.
zFestivals & Events
Jornadas Musicales de La SerenaMUSIC
(hearly Jan)
This traditional festival sees a series of musical events, plus traditional food stands. It typically happens in the Plaza de Armas.
Feria Internacional del Libro de La SerenaFAIR
(hearly Feb)
This book fair brings prominent Chilean authors to the Museo Histórico Casa Gabriel González Videla.
4Sleeping
La Serena gets booked up fast in January and February and some hotels won’t accept one-night stays. Off-season, most midrange hotels offer discounts for longer stays.
El ArbolHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-6053; www.hostalelarbol.cl; Eduardo de la Barra 29; dm/d without bathroom from CH$9000/26,000; 
W)
Near the lush Parque Japones, this converted colonial house has just a handful of rooms, all sunny and well maintained. There’s a pretty bougainvillea-clad garden in front and English-speaking staff on hand, and guests can make themselves at home and use the lounge area, kitchen and barbecue. Dorms have four to eight beds.
Maria’s CasaGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7466-7433; www.hostalmariacasa.cl; Las Rojas 18; d CH$32,000, s/d without bathroom CH$20,000/25,000; W)
The cottage-style rooms at this family-run spot are simple and cozy, and there’s a garden in back where you can camp (CH$5000 per person). Other backpacker-friendly amenities include well-scrubbed shared bathrooms, a quaint country kitchen with free tea and coffee, laundry service and bike rental.
You can arrange tours here or learn how to make your own pair of sandals.
Hostal El PuntoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-222-8474; www.hostalelpunto.cl; Bello 979; d/tr CH$36,000/41,000, dm/s/d/tr without bathroom from CH$10,000/20,000/24,000/34,000; 
iW)
This is La Serena’s best hostel, with a wide range of rooms, a bunch of sunny terraces, bright mosaics and tree-trunk tables. The staff speak German and English, and provide travel tips, tours, bike rental, nice cakes, laundry, book exchange…you name it. You’ll want to book months ahead, especially in high season.
oHostal Tierra DiaguitaHOSTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-6608; www.terradiaguita.cl; Eduardo de la Barra 440; incl breakfast s/d CH$45,000/52,000, without bathroom CH$38,000/43,000; W)
Inside a colonial house and leafy patio sprinkled with pre-Columbian designs and artwork, you’ll find a mix of attractively designed rooms, all with comfy furniture and modern bathroom. Guests can relax in the verdant back garden, complete with small open fires on cold nights. There’s also an inside lounge area, where the excellent breakfast is served.
Hotel del CidHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-2692; www.hoteldelcid.cl; O’Higgins 138; s/d CH$50,000/60,000; 
pW)
A dependable midrange option, this pleasant hotel has rooms with classic flair around a colonial-style patio and a set of more modern units in the extension out back. It’s all paired with friendly English-speaking service.
Hotel LondresHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-9066; www.hotellondres.cl; Cordovez 550; s/d/tr CH$37,000/47,000/57,000; pW)
Besides having a great location, this friendly family-run hotel features very beige rooms with a bit of chintz, but firm beds and spacious bathrooms. Rooms in the front are noisier but also brighter.
America HolidaysHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-248-2802; Almagro 399; s/d CH$53,000/58,000, without bathroom CH$34,000/36,000, ste CH$75,000; W)
A fine little corner hotel with boutique pretensions, America Holidays features thoroughly modern rooms with modern stylings and fittings, friendly personalized service and a hushed, tranquil atmosphere.
Mar del EnsueñoHOTEL$$$
(%51-222-2381; www.hotelmarensueno.com; Av del Mar 900; s/d from CH$88,000/95,000, cabañas CH$209,000; 
aW
s)
For instant beach access, it’s hard to beat the Ensueño – it’s right across the road. A family-friendly place (play equipment, games room etc), it’s a reasonable deal for couples too – the bright spacious rooms all face the ocean and there’s a decent on-site restaurant.
Families should check out the cabañas, which offer more space, plus full kitchens and small patios.
Hotel Francisco de AguirreHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-222-2991; www.hotelfranciscodeaguirre.com; Cordovez 210; s/d from CH$66,000/75,000; piWs)
This large hotel’s imposing neocolonial frontage faces Iglesia Santo Domingo (cnr Cordovez & Muñoz; 9am-6pm), the bells of which often wake late risers. Rooms range in size, but generally you’ll have to upgrade to a superior to get a large one. There’s also a spacious pool and a small gym.
5Eating
La Serena has a wide range of dining options, with a mix of bustling budget-friendly eateries and a few more upscale dining rooms. There are several markets in town, including the well-known Mercado La Recova, with produce, crafts and several restaurants. Supermarkets are ubiquitous.
AyawasiVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pedro Pablo Muñoz 566; mains CH$4000-9500; h9am-8pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 4pm Thu, noon-5pm Sat)
A short walk from the plaza, this little vegetarian oasis serves some fantastic set lunches, delicious fresh juices and innovative sandwiches and salads in a shady garden setting or laid-back dining room.
LemongrassASIAN$$
(%cell 9-9760-6361; Las Rojas Peniente 261; mains CH$7000-10,500; h12:30-5pm Mon-Sat; 
v)
Tucked away in a residential neighborhood 1.5km south of the plaza, Lemongrass has a loyal local following for its delicious pan-Asian cooking – a rarity in these parts. Grab a table on the small front terrace and fire up your taste buds with massaman curry (a Thai coconut curry), Malaysian-style rice noodles with shrimp, or wok stir-fried vegetables.
La Mia PizzaITALIAN$$
(%51-221-2232; Av del Mar 2100; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 4:30pm Sun)
Out on La Serena’s oceanfront, La Mia Pizza has a solid reputation among locals for its excellent Italian fare (pizzas, pastas), plus top-notch seafood. It’s a classy spot with big windows and a deck overlooking the shore – though a busy road separates it from the sands.
El GuatónCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Brasil 750; mains CH$6200-13,000; h12:30-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-8pm Sun)
One of La Serena’s best restaurants, El Guatón has a covered courtyard with beautifully tiled floors and an aesthetic of rustic elegance – a fine setting for grilled meats and seafood, plus traditional hits like pastel de choclo (beef and corn casserole). The dapper, hat-wearing waitstaff deserve special mention for the friendly service.
La TerrazzaITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Eduardo de la Barra 435; mains CH$6000-9000; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat; W)
This polished, high-ceilinged space is a great spot for pizzas, panini, gnocchi and other Italian fare; or you can stop in for an afternoon pick-me-up (cappuccinos, wines by the glass). The prime place to be is on the large wooden deck out front, with heat lamps flaring on cold nights.
Jack FishFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-221-9711; Juan de Dios Pení 508; mains CH$8000-13,000; h1-11:30pm Mon-Sat)
Ceviche and sushi are served with a does of heavy metal at this small, friendly eatery. The creative ceviche combos are named after music legends such as Metallica (tuna, shrimp and abalone) or Black Sabbath (reineta fish, octopus and scallops), and there’s also a wide variety of sushi platters, tempuras and cooked seafood.
El Santo CerveceroINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr El Santo & Amunátegui; mains CH$6500-12,000; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat)
Perched up on a hillside, this large indoor/outdoor setup serves up some tasty pizzas along with sandwiches, steaks and tablas (sharing platters). Food aside, the big draw is the selection of craft brew, including El Santo’s own frothy creations.
Casona del 900PARRILLA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %51-252-0767; Av Francisco de Aguirre 431-443; mains CH$7000-10,000; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Inside an old beer factory, this high-ceilinged steakhouse with a glassed-in garden oozes ambience and packs in meat-loving locals for its good-value barbecues (CH$22,900 for two, with wine).
6Drinking & Nightlife
The happening part of town is the area around the corner of Eduardo de la Barra and O’Higgins, where you’ll find boho student crowds. Nightclubs sparkle along the seafront, past the lighthouse and all the way to Barrio Inglés in Coquimbo; they’re especially hot during summer.
Lighthouse CoffeeCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.lighthousecoffee.cl; Matta 570; h9am-9pm)
This hip, art-filled cafe serves the best coffee in town. Linger over Chemex brews and V-60 pour-overs whipped up by friendly baristas. If you’re craving something sweet, cast your eye over the strawberry-topped cheesecake, pumpkin pie and other decadent desserts to the right of the counter.
There’s a tree-shaded patio in back.
MoscatelCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pedro Pablo Muñoz 580; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat)
This stylish, upscale pisco bar serves more than 40 varieties, including rare types you won’t find elsewhere. You can enjoy it straight or in beautifully made cocktails like the Sangre del Elqui with horchata (a rice and cinnamon drink) and grenadine, or a classic pisco sour. Quality craft beers and ample sharing plates (empanadas, ceviche, charcuterie, vegetarian carpaccio) round out the menu.
La RoccaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/publarocca; Eduardo de la Barra 569; h4pm-3am Tue-Sat)
Stay out late drinking on the interior patio at this popular student hangout with occasional live music.
8Information
Banks with ATMs are readily available in the blocks around Plaza de Armas. There are several money-exchange shops on Balmaceda, between Cordobez and Prat.
Sernatur (%51-222-5199; www.turismoregiondecoquimbo.cl; Matta 461; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Dec-Mar, 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat Apr-Nov) Excellent tourist info shelled out from this office by the Plaza de Armas.
Cámara de Turismo Kiosk (Prat; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) In summer the municipal tourist office runs an information kiosk by Iglesia La Merced.
Hospital Juan de Diós (%51-233-3312; www.hospitalserena.cl; Balmaceda 916; h24hr) The emergency entrance is at the corner of Larraín Alcalde and Anfión Muñóz.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
La Serena’s Aeropuerto La Florida (LSC; %51-227-0353; www.aeropuertolaserena.cl) is around 5km east of downtown along Ruta 41. LATAM (%600-526-2000; Balmaceda 406; h9am-1:45pm & 3:20-6pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-1:15pm Sat) flies daily to Santiago (from CH$25,000, one hour) and to Antofagasta (from CH$19,000, 1½ hours). Sky (www.skyairline.com) also flies to Santiago (from CH$11,000) and Antofagasta (from CH$12,000).
BUS
Terminal de Buses (%51-222-4573; cnr Amunátegui & Av El Santo), just southwest of the center, has dozens of carriers plying the Panamericana from Santiago north to Arica, including Tur Bus (%51-221-3060; www.turbus.cl) and Pullman Bus (%51-221-8879; www.pullman.cl; Eduardo de la Barra 435).
Typical destinations and fares are as follows.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Antofagasta | 18,000-36,000 | 12 |
| Arica | 38,000-51,000 | 22 |
| Calama | 17,000-39,000 | 14 |
| Copiapó | 9000-18,000 | 5 |
| Iquique | 27,000-43,000 | 19 |
| Santiago | 8000-18,000 | 6 |
| Vallenar | 5000-10,000 | 3 |
To get to Vicuña (CH$2700, 1½ hours), Ovalle (CH$2700, two hours), Montegrande (CH$4000, two hours) or Pisco Elqui (CH$4000, 2½ hours), try Via Elqui (%51-231-2422; cnr Juan de Dios Pení & Esmeralda). You can even do Elqui Valley as a day trip; the first bus to Vicuña departs at 6:40am and the last returns at 9pm.
Hector Galleguillos (%51-225-3206; Aguirre s/n) offers bus service from La Serena to Punta de Choros.
For Argentine destinations, Cata Internacional (www.catainternacional.com) departs on Sundays at 6pm for Mendoza (from CH$37,000, 13 hours). In summer Covalle Bus (%51-222-1751; Infante 538) also goes to Mendoza (CH$45,000, 13 hours) and San Juan (CH$45,000, 18 hours) via the Libertadores pass every Wednesday and Friday, leaving at 11pm.
TAXI COLECTIVO
A large number of regional destinations are frequently and rapidly served by taxi colectivo (shared taxi). Colectivos to Coquimbo (from CH$800, 20 minutes) leave from Av Francisco de Aguirre between Balmaceda and Los Carrera.
8Getting Around
Private taxis to Aeropuerto La Florida, 5km east of downtown on Ruta 41, cost CH$6000; try Radio Taxi Florida (%51-221-2122; http://radiotaxilaflorida.cl).
Women traveling alone should be wary of taxi drivers in La Serena; sexual assaults have been reported. Only take company cabs.
For car hire, try Avis (%51-254-5300; Av Francisco de Aguirre 063; h8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat), Hertz (%51-222-6171; Av Francisco de Aguirre 0409; h8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri) or Econorent (%51-222-0113; Av Francisco de Aguirre 0141; h8:30am-6:40pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat). They all have stands at the airport as well as downtown offices.
South of La Serena
Coquimbo
%051 / POP 210,000
The rough-and-tumble port of Coquimbo next door to La Serena has been undergoing something of a revolution in recent years. Clinging to the rocky hills of Península Coquimbo, the town was long written off as La Serena’s ugly cousin, but it has blossomed into the area’s up-and coming spot for nightlife. It’s worth a trip for a wander around its handsomely restored 19th-century Barrio Inglés (English Quarter) and a visit to the fish market for some fresh seafood. Other highlights include boat trips on the bay and a massive cross (with museum) that offers magnificent views over the bay.
1Sights
Fuerte CoquimboVIEWPOINT
(Camino al Fuerte; h24hr) F
Also known as Fuerte Lambert, this former 19th-century fortification offers picturesque views over the bay from a rocky perch near the peninsula’s northeast point. You can spy pelicans and other seabirds from one of the small lookout towers above the crashing waves.
The fort is 2km north of Barrio Inglés.
Cruz del Tercer MilenioNOTABLE BUILDING
(Cross of the Third Millennium; www.cruzdeltercermilenio.cl; Teniente Merino, Cerro El Vigía; adult/child CH$2000/1000; h9:30am-6pm; p)
A cross between a holy pilgrimage site and theme park, this whopping 93m-high concrete cross can be clearly seen from La Serena’s beaches and makes for an outstanding lookout. The cross contains a museum (largely devoted to the late Pope John Paul II), prayer rooms and an elevator ride to the top. Mass is held every Sunday at 4:30pm (4pm in the winter).
TTours
Galeon PirataBOATING
(CH$3000; hnoon-8pm)
For a whimsical boat ride on the bay, take a tour aboard this re-created pirate ship. Hour-long boat tours of the harbor depart regularly from Muelle Morgan on Av Costanera in January and February, weekends only in winter.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal NomadeHOSTEL$
(%51-275-1161; www.hostalnomadecoquimbo.cl; Regimiento Coquimbo 5; dm CH$15,000, d from CH$28,000; pW)
Built in 1850 and once the French consulate, the friendly Hostal Nomade houses several living rooms complete with odds and ends from the 19th century, a full kitchen, table-tennis table (in summer), rustic garden area and 13 well-maintained dorm and private rooms.
The atmospheric old mansion with its bohemian vibe and mural-covered corridors earns bonus points for only putting four people in each dorm room.
Hotel IberiaHOTEL$$
(%51-231-2141; www.hoteliberia.cl; Lastra 400; s/d CH$20,000/30,000; pW)
Hotel Iberia has simply furnished rooms in a great location across from the Plaza de Armas and near the nightlife of Barrio Inglés. Some rooms lack exterior windows so look at a few before committing.
Terminal PesqueroSEAFOOD$$
(Costanera; mains CH$5500-12,000; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
The fish market, located along the bay, offers a wealth of fresh seafood, and it’s the best place to be around lunchtime.
Puerto BrasasINTERNATIONAL$$
(Aldunate 865; mains CH$6500-12,000; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
Some excellent fish dishes, good parrilla (barbecued meat) and live music on weekends make this a solid choice, tucked among the bars of the Barrio Inglés.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Most of the nightlife is along Aldunate, heading northwest from the plaza in Barrio Inglés. This entire area, stretching for several blocks, is chock-full with bars and clubs, which get going on weekends. Weeknights in Coquimbo can be pretty quiet. Wherever you go, be sure to take a taxi after dark as the surrounding area can be unsafe to wander.
Mi Bar CoquimboCLUB
(%9-6418-0663; Freire 387; h6pm-2am Wed & Thu, to 4am Fri, 8pm-4am Sat)
A reliable spot for catching live bands and DJ-spun grooves, with a mix of funk, soul, hip-hop, blues and jazz. The extra-large cocktails are legendary.
El EuropeoBAR
(Aldunate 809; h11am-8pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu & Fri, 6pm-2am Sat)
A small, welcoming beer bar on lively Aldunate serves up craft brews, gourmet burgers (around CH$4000) and snacks.
8Getting There & Away
Coquimbo’s bus terminal (Varela) is about 600m south of Barrio Inglés on Varela between Borgoño and Alcalde. Many local buses and colectivos also link Coquimbo with La Serena (bus CH$600, colectivo CH$1200, private taxi CH$7000 to CH$12,000).
Guanaqueros
%051
Petite Guanaqueros’ long white beach makes it one of the area’s most popular bucket-and-spade destinations. Situated 30km south of Coquimbo and 5km west of the Panamericana, it’s suitable for a day trip, although cabin complexes dot the entrance road.
A friendly spot just uphill from the waterfront, Akitespero (%51-239-5311; www.akitespero.cl; Calle La Serena; d from CH$40,000-80,000; pW) has five well-equipped apartments, all with small kitchen units and bright, airy interiors. Book an upstairs unit for a terrace with sea views.
A short uphill stroll from the beach, El Guanaquito (%cell 9-8129-6222; www.elguanaquito.com; Av del Ocaso 2920; apt CH$40,000-65,000) offers spacious apartments with private balconies overlooking the bay. The place could use a makeover, though you can score good deals in low season (with prices dropping as low as CH$25,000). There’s a restaurant on-site.
Across from the waterfront, El Pequeño (Av Guanaqueros; mains CH$7000-13,500; h10am-10pm) serves up some of the best grilled fish in town. There’s a happy buzz to the place, with locals and out-of-towners feasting on plates of crabs, shrimp or seafood empanadas followed by the fresh catch of the day, served either fried or grilled. Or try the lively Centro Gastronomico El Suizo (Av Guanaqueros 2427; mains CH$6000-10,000; h10am-10pm), a semi-enclosed food court ringed by small bars and restaurants.
To get here, catch any of the frequent buses leaving from the bus terminals in La Serena and Coquimbo (45 minutes, CH$1900).
Tongoy
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Tongoy is a lively little beach resort – the perfect place to savor fresh seafood, sink a few chilled copas (glasses) and be serenaded by full-throated buskers; you’ll find the marisquerías (seafood restaurants) alongside Playa Grande. Playa Socos, on the north side of the peninsula, is a much more sheltered spot for a dip.
Right off the plaza on the main road in Tongoy, the family-run Hotel Aqua Marina (%51-239-1870; Fundación Sur 93; r CH$35,000; pW) has eight simply furnished rooms set around a small patio. Terminal Pesquero (Av Coquimbo; mains CH$1800-3500; h10am-5pm) is a small fish market, with vendors serving up freshly shucked oysters, ceviche, scallops and other seafood. The best option of the beachfront restaurants, La Bahia (%51-239-2147; Av Playa Grande; mains CH$9000-11,000) whips up a wide variety of fish and seafood plates. The lenguado (sole) is quite good. Go early to score a seat out front with views over the seaside.
Buses leave every 20 minutes or so for La Serena (from CH$2000, 70 minutes), passing Guanaqueros and Coquimbo en route.
Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge
The last thing you’d expect to stumble across in a cactus-riddled semidesert would be lush cloud forest of the type found around Valdivia, 1205km south. But that’s exactly what you’ll find at Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge (off Ruta 5; adult/child CH$6000/3000; h9am-5:30pm), a smear of green squeezed between the ocean and the desert.
The puzzle of how this pocket of verdant Valdivian cloud forest came to exist in such a parched environment is answered by the daily blanket of moist camanchaca (thick fog) that rolls in from the Pacific Ocean. Come around noon and you’ll witness this white cushion of clouds cloaking the sea and progressively swallowing the forest’s base, giving the impression that you could be on top of the world – when you’re only really 600m above the sea. That said, the best time to appreciate the forest’s ecology is early morning, when condensation from the fog leaves the plants dripping with moisture.
Patches of green inland suggest that the forest was once far more extensive. Of Fray Jorge’s 100 sq km, there remain only 400 hectares of its truly unique vegetation – enough, though, to make it a Unesco World Biosphere Reserve.
Scant mammals include skunks and sea otters, as well as two species of fox. There are also some 80 bird species; small hawks sit atop the cacti while eagles wheel high above in search of prey.
In the late afternoon the rising camanchaca moistens the dense vegetation at Sendero El Bosque, a 1km trail that runs along the ridge above the ocean. The trail is at the end of the 27km-long road from the Panamericana. The last segment of the road is very steep, rough and dusty.
There’s no public transportation to the park. The park is a six-hour drive from Santiago. Take a westward lateral off the Panamericana, at Km387, about 20km north of the Ovalle junction.
Several agencies in La Serena offer tours. Fray Jorge’s gated road may be locked outside opening hours.
Río Hurtado Valley
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The least explored of Norte Chico’s valleys, this verdant region is crisscrossed with curvy roads, hillside hamlets and endless vineyards, all enveloped by barren mountains rising on all sides. It’s the type of place where you won’t see anyone for kilometers on end, and then a man on horseback will trot along its dusty roads.
A nice place to stay is Hacienda Los Andes (%53-269-1822; www.haciendalosandes.com; off Ruta D-595; campsites per person CH$5000, s/d incl breakfast from CH$45,000/66,000; p). This gorgeously rambling hideaway offers skinny dipping in a cool highland river, dozy afternoons spent in a hammock and other ways to disconnect. Overlooking the lush banks of Río Hurtado, Hacienda Los Andes offers all that and more. It also has horseback trips (from CH$60,000 for half-day trips), night-sky tours (from CH$12,000) and 4WD trips (CH$60,000).
Free activities include scenic walks on the marked trails that dot the property. To get here, take one of the buses from Ovalle to Hurtado (CH$2400, roughly between noon and 7pm but check the website for details). The hacienda is 6km before Hurtado, just before the bridge. It can provide a pickup service from Ovalle, La Serena and Vicuña. The hacienda is 46km from Vicuña via a decent mountain road.
To get here, catch one of several buses a day running from Ovalle to Hurtado (CH$2400, 2½ hours), but to properly explore the valley you’ll need your own wheels.
Limarí Valley
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Often overlooked, this pretty valley is home to hot springs, verdant rural lodges and an astonishing collection of pre-Columbian rock art. Despite the cacti and dry climate (which averages 10cm of rainfall per year), the Limarí is also home to a growing number of wineries. In fact, this is one of Chile’s northernmost winegrowing regions.
4Sleeping & Eating
oHacienda Santa CristinaLODGE$$$
(%53-242-2270; www.haciendasantacristina.cl; off Ruta D-505; r $89,000; Ws)
In the heart of the fertile Limarí Valley, this welcoming, family-run hacienda is set amid eucalyptus, poplars and spacious flower-filled lawns with views of distant mountains. Rooms are handsomely designed in classic country style with verandas overlooking the grounds, and there’s a first-rate restaurant on-site (mains CH$6500 to CH$11,000). The Hacienda has its own stable and offers horseback riding.
Manager Juan Pablo has a wealth of information about exploring the area, and can advise on wine tasting, village visits and other activities.
Cabildo AbiertoCHILEAN$$
(%cell 9-425-5367; Ruta D-565, Barraza; mains CH$6000-8000; h1-4pm)
In the tiny village of Barraza, Cabildo Abierto serves up delicious home-cooked Chilean fare, which you can enjoy in the rustic back garden. Afterward, be sure to a pay a visit to the 17th-century church across the street.
It’s 34km west of Ovalle and 8km east of the Panamericana, north of Socos.
8Getting There & Around
Ovalle is the main access point of the valley, though to properly explore, you’ll need your own wheels. There are bus links from Ovalle to Santiago (CH$8000 to CH$15,000, 5½ hours) and Iquique (CH$20,000 to CH$40,000, 19 hours), and frequent service to La Serena (from CH$2000, 1½ hours).
If you have your own transportation you can make a loop from La Serena to Vicuña, Hurtado and Ovalle. The 43km gravel road from Vicuña to Hurtado is usually manageable in a regular car, but a 4WD or high-clearance vehicle would be less hair-raising. The drive is beautiful, sometimes steep, with desert scenery of cacti, multicolored rocks and views of hilltop observatories. Public transportation from Ovalle goes as far as Hurtado, but there is no direct connection to Vicuña.
Valle del Encanto
An intriguing gallery of pre-Colombian rock art can be found at Monumento Arqueológico Valle del Encanto (Ruta D-589; adult/child CH$500/300; h9am-8pm Dec-Feb, to 6pm Mar-Nov), a rocky tributary canyon of the Río Limarí 19km west of Ovalle. An array of petroglyphs and pictographs depict dancing stick-men, alien-like figures with antennae and characters sporting spectacular headdresses. The valley rocks are also riddled with holes called tacitas, which were used as mortars to grind ceremonial plants and food.
The figures mostly date to the El Molle culture, which inhabited the area from the 2nd to the 7th century AD. The rock art is best viewed around noon when shadows are fewer, but it can be very hot at that time of day.
To get here, take any westbound bus out of Ovalle and disembark at the highway marker; Valle del Encanto is an easy 5km walk along a gravel road, but with luck someone will offer you a lift.
Tabalí (%cell 9-9015-7960; www.tabali.com; Hacienda Santa Rosa de Tabalí; tour & tasting per person from CH$10,000; htours by reservations Mon-Sat) is a great little winery that’s making waves in the Limarí Valley. Located at 1600m and planted on a mix of soils (alluvial, transitional, granitic), the vineyards here produce a one-of-a-kind wine that is ripe and fresh. You’ll need to reserve ahead to arrange a tour and tasting.
The winery is on the same road as the Monumento Arqueológico Valle del Encanto (2km south of the vineyard), and makes a great add-on following a visit to the open-air gallery of ancient rock art.
Termas de Socos
After a grueling day in the desert it’s blissful to sink into the steamy thermal baths or a refreshingly cool swimming pool at Termas de Socos, a tiny spring hidden 1.5km off the Panamericana at Km370. Spring water is bottled on-site.
A pleasant gravel-and-sand campsite, Camping Termas de Socos (%53-263-1490; www.campingtermassocos.cl; campsites per person CH$7000; s) has its own pool and baths. There’s only partial shade but it has a good games room and playground. Nonguests can use the pool for CH$4500. You can find Francisco, the campground owner, at the shop and restaurant next to the gas just off the main highway in Socos. An unexpected delight, Hotel Termas Socos (%53-198-2505; www.termasocos.cl; s/d incl full board CH$67,000/123,000; ps) is guarded by tall eucalyptus, surrounded by lush foliage and isolated amid arid hills. Its room rates include a piping-hot private bath, and there are fine areas for relaxing, including a lounge with fireplace.
Termas de Socos is signed off the Panamericana, and is roughly 38km southwest of Ovalle. Most visitors arrive with their own wheels since it’s a dusty 1.5km walk from the highway.
Ovalle
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The capital of the prosperous agricultural province of Limarí, this workaday place can be a useful base for exploring the area.
Housed in the right flank of the old train-station building, the Museo de Limari (%53-243-3680; cnr Covarrubias & Antofagasta; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) F houses dramatically lit ceramics, most of which are Diaguita, dating from around AD 1000 to AD 1500.
The best of the budget picks, Hotel Roxi (%53-262-0080; karimedaire@hotmail.com; Libertad 155; s/d CH$19,000/27,000, without bathroom CH$16,000/20,000) offers decent-sized rooms with blasting hot showers a couple of blocks from the plaza. A short walk northeast of the main Plaza de Armas, the easygoing Hostal Chile Colonial (%53-220-5433; http://hostalchilecolonial.com; Arauco 146; s/d/tw CH$30,000/35,000/40,000; pW) has nine small but comfortably furnished rooms set around a covered courtyard. Ovalle’s most charming eatery, El Relajo (%53-244-8323; www.elrelajo.cl; Tirado 177; mains CH$7000-13,000; h1-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat; v) serves up a mix of Mexican, Peruvian and Chilean dishes amid rustic wood furniture, a thatch roof and upbeat Latin grooves.
Although Ovalle is 30km east of the Panamericana, many north–south buses pass through here. In the south of town, Terminal Media Luna (Ariztía Oriente s/n) has service to major destinations, including Santiago (CH$8000 to CH$15,000, 5½ hours), Arica (CH$25,000 to CH$46,000, 27 hours), Iquique (CH$20,000 to CH$40,000, 19 hours) and Antofagasta (from CH$17,000, 14 hours).
North of the terminal, on Ariztía Oriente, regional bus companies like Serena Mar (www.serenmar.cl) go to La Serena (from CH$2000, 1½ hours) every 20 minutes or so. On the same street, colectivos (shared taxis) also make the trip to La Serena (CH$2500, 1½ hours).
Elqui Valley
Vicuña
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The spirit of Gabriela Mistral’s somnambulist poetry seeps from every pore of snoozy little Vicuña. Just 62km east of La Serena, this is the easiest base from which to delve deeper into the Elqui Valley. The town itself, with its low-key plaza, lyrical air and compact dwellings, is worth a visit for a day or two before you head out into the countryside to indulge in the nearby solar kitchens (where the sun cooks the food), and the fresh avocados, papayas and other fruits grown in the region – not to mention the famous grapes that are distilled into Chile’s potent grape-brandy pisco.
1Sights
Cervecería GuayacanBREWERY
(%cell 9-9798-3224; www.cervezaguayacan.cl; Calle Principal 33, Diaguitas; hnoon-8pm daily) F
You won’t get far in the Elqui valley without someone offering you a Guayacan, and if you’re even vaguely interested in beer, you should accept. This little craft brewery’s reputation is growing fast and brief tours of the facilities are accompanied by a generous sampling of their products.
The brewery is in the small village of Diaguitas, about 7km east of downtown Vicuña and there’s an inviting beer garden serving up tasty pizzas and burgers (mains CH$5000 to CH$7000) from Wednesday to Sunday.
Museo Gabriela MistralMUSEUM
(%51-241-1223; www.mgmistral.cl; Av Gabriela Mistral 759; h10am-5:45pm Tue-Fri, 10:30am-6pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) F
The town’s landmark Museo Gabriela Mistral, between Riquelme and Baquedano, celebrates one of Chile’s most famous literary figures. Gabriela Mistral was born Lucila Godoy Alcayaga in 1889 in Vicuña. The museum charts her life (in Spanish only), from a replica of her adobe birthplace to her Nobel Prize, and has a clutch of busts making her seem a particularly strict schoolmarm.
Museo Entomologico e Historia NaturalMUSEUM
(Chacabuco 334; adult/child CH$600/300; h10:30am-1:30pm & 3:30-7pm)
On the south side of the plaza, this small, one-room museum has an eye-catching collection of fierce-looking scarab beetles, shimmering blue-winged morpho butterflies and other insects, including various Saturniidae, among the largest moths on earth. Minerals and fossils round out the intriguing displays.
Pisquera AbaDISTILLERY
(%51-241-1039; www.pisquera-aba.cl; Ruta 41, Km66; h10am-6pm) F
This family-run boutique pisquera, in operation since 1921, offers quite a different view of pisco production. The 40-minute tours take you through all the aspects of production and end up in the tasting room, with samples of their full range of products, from the classics to some innovative fruit blends. It’s about 4km from the centre of town – an easy bike ride or CH$3000 taxi trip from the plaza.
Planta Pisco CapelDISTILLERY
(%51-255-4337; www.centroturisticocapel.cl; tours from CH$4000; h11:30am-7:30pm Jan & Feb, to 6pm Mar-Dec)
Capel distills pisco at this facility and has its only bottling plant here. Located about 2km (20-minute walk) southeast of town, this artisanal pisco maker offers 45-minute tours of the facilities, which includes an on-site museum and a few skimpy samples (CH$15,000 gets you the premium tour, with snacks and tastings of six top-shelf piscos). To get here, head southeast of town and across the bridge, then turn left.
There’s also a mixology tour, where the distillery visit is followed by a lesson in making the perfect cocktail (CH$8000). Call ahead for English-language tours.
WORTH A TRIP
EXPLORING THE ELQUI VALLEY
The first point of interest on the drive from Vicuña, at Km14.5 just before Montegrande and at an altitude of 1080m, is the Cavas del Valle winery (%cell 9-6842-5592; www.cavasdelvalle.cl; Ruta 485, Km14.5; h11am-7pm) F. Opened in 2004, this little boutique bucks the trend by serving actual wine, rather than pisco. The cosecha otoñal dessert wine, made of pink muscatel grapes, alone is worth the stop. A quick tour of the facilities with a tasting of three wines is free although you are encouraged to purchase a bottle.
An artisanal pisquera (pisco distillery) established in 1868, 3km south of Pisco Elqui, Fundo Los Nichos (%51-245-1085; www.fundolosnichos.cl; Ruta 485; tour from CH$1000; h11am-6pm) still produces pisco the old-fashioned way. Its four guided tours (CH$1000, in Spanish only, 11:30am, 1pm, 4pm and 5pm daily in summer) include a visit to the facilities and a tasting of three piscos. Or just stop by between 11am and 6pm for a free tasting; bottles start at CH$5000.
Drive on from here and you’ll reach the Horcón artisanal market (%51-245-1015; Ruta D-393, Horcón Bajo; hnoon-7:30pm summer, 1-6:30pm Tue-Sun rest of year) in the valley of its namesake village, worth a browse for its wealth of gorgeous handmade arts and crafts, local all-natural food and cosmetic products, all sold out of bamboo stalls. It’s a feast of colors, dream catchers, wind chimes, knit dresses and jewelry.
From here, the paved road turns into a dusty dirt track leading to the adorable village of Alcoguaz, 14km beyond Pisco Elqui. Note its yellow and red wooden church and, if you wish to stay, move on to Casona Distante (%cell 9-9226-5440; www.casonadistante.cl; Fundo Distante, Alcohuaz; r CH$78,000-120,000; ps), a big wooden 1930s farmhouse beautifully restored into a rustic eight-room ecolodge with a swimming pool, riverside trails, a small observatory and a split-level restaurant.
2Activities
Vicuña is a great base if you want to devote more time to exploring Elqui Valley. Not only is it the gateway to some great observatories, but it also offers bike rides into the surrounding countryside, trips to remote mountains around Paso del Agua Negra (summer only) and horseback jaunts. There is even kitesurfing on the Puclaro reservoir, 10km away along the road to La Serena; Chile KiteSurf (%cell 9-5223-7712; www.chilekitesurf.cl; Gualliguaica, Puclaro) offers classes.
Elki MagicADVENTURE SPORTS
(%cell 9-6877-2015; www.elkimagic.com; San Martin 472; h10am-8pm)
Run by an enthusiastic Chilean-French couple, this agency offers guided downhill bike jaunts (from CH$15,000), half-day van tours to valley highlights (from CH$15,000) and all-day 4WD trips to the lagoons near Argentina (CH$40,000 including lunch). They also rent bikes (CH$7000 per day) and can provide a map of the 18km trail around the surrounding villages.
The office is two blocks north of the plaza.
zFestivals & Events
Carnaval ElquinoCARNIVAL
(hmid-Jan–Feb)
Vicuña holds its annual grape harvest festival, Carnaval Elquino, in mid-January. It ends February 22, the anniversary of the city’s founding, with activities including live music and folkloric dancing.
4Sleeping
La ElquinaHOSTAL$
(%51-241-1317; www.laelquina.cl; O’Higgins 65; campsites per person CH$6000, d CH$30,000, s/d without bathroom CH$15,000/25,000; pW)
The best of Vicuña’s budget options, La Elquina is a friendly family-run spot with simply furnished rooms set around several spacious courtyards. There are also nicely shaded campsites and a kitchen that’s open 24 hours. The outdoor tables on the grass are fine places to unwind in the afternoon.
Alfa AldeaHOSTAL$
(%51-241-2441; www.alfaaldea.cl; La Vinita; s/d CH$25,000/40,000; pW)
It’s worth the CH$2000 taxi ride (or 15-minute walk) to the outskirts of town to stay in this low-key family-run hostal. Nestled in the vineyards and with priceless valley and mountain views, the rooms are simple but extremely comfortable. The stars (sorry) of the show, however, are the excellent astronomical tours held on-site.
Hostal Valle HermosoHOSTAL$
(%51-241-1206; www.hostalvallehermoso.com; Av Gabriela Mistral 706; s/d/tr CH$18,000/36,000/48,000; W)
Great lodging choice with eight airy and immaculately clean rooms around a sun-drenched patio inside an old adobe casona with Oregon-pine beams and walnut floors. Staff is warm and friendly and the ambience laid-back – as if staying with old friends.
Zaguan Hostal BoutiqueGUESTHOUSE$$
(%51-241-1244; http://zaguanhotel.com; Gabriela Mistral 718; r CH$55,000-75,000; pW)
In a lovely adobe house dating to 1906, Zaguan has handsomely designed rooms with high-quality furnishings set around a flower-filled central garden. The friendly multilingual owners do their best to make guests feel at home. Generous breakfasts.
The two split-level rooms are ideal for families, with a king-sized bed and a separate room with two twin beds.
Solar de los MadariagaGUESTHOUSE$$
(%51-241-1220; www.solardelosmadariaga.cl; Gabriela Mistral 683; s/d CH$32,000/53,000; pW)
Set in a beautifully restored 19th-century home, this friendly and welcoming guesthouse has loads of charm, with attractive rooms opening on to a back garden. The front of the house is something of a house museum, with furnishings and family memorabilia from the Basque family that lived here in the 1880s.
With just a few rooms available, the Solar books up quickly, so reserve well ahead.
Hostal Aldea del ElquiHOTEL$$
(%51-254-3069; www.hostalaldeadelelqui.cl; Av Gabriela Mistral 197; s/d CH$25,000/40,000; Ws)
Casonas (large houses) converted into accommodations, this friendly hotel has well-kept rooms with good beds and TV, some on the 2nd floor of a newer adjacent building. There’s a tranquil garden with a small pool, sauna and hot tub. Off-season, prices drop considerably.
Hostería VicuñaHOTEL$$
(%51-241-1301; www.hosteriavicuna.cl; Sargento Aldea 101; s/d/tr CH$40,000/54,000/69,000; pWs)
Its simple rooms leave a bit to be desired for the price and the whole place feels a little outdated, but the gardens have warm vine-touched patios, sentinel palm trees and a big pool area (available to nonguests for CH$5000 per day).
5Eating
Govinda’sVEGETARIAN$
(Prat 234, 2nd fl; lunch special CH$3500; h1-5pm Mon-Sat)
In an airy upstairs space across from the plaza, Govinda’s serves up delicious and hearty vegetarian fare, with a menu that changes daily. Spaghetti with vegetables, flavor-packed paella and juicy veggie burgers are recent selections, with homemade desserts topping things off.
Govinda’s also has yoga classes (currently Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6:30pm).
La BilbainaICE CREAM$
(Gabriela Mistral 383; h11am-8pm)
On the north side of the plaza, La Bilbaina is a local favorite for its delicious and creative varieties of ice cream (try regional flavors such as copao, a fruit from a wild cactus). It’s been going strong for over 50 years.
AntawaraCHILEAN$
(Mistral 109; mains CH$4200-8000; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)
This is your best bet for late-night eats – otherwise problematic in sleepy Vicuña. Service is warm, the wine list is impressive and there’s a good range of hot and cold tablas (platters) along with sandwiches and a good-value set lunch for CH$4000.
FridaINTERNATIONAL$
(Prat btwn Mistral & Chacabuco; mains CH$3000-4000; h10am-10pm)
Vicuña’s most colorful cafe is whimsically decorated with Mexican knickknacks and serves up spice-lacking goat’s-cheese sandwiches, quesadillas and fajitas, but surprisingly little else in the way of Mexican fare. It’s a better spot for afternoon drinks with snacks.
oChivato NegroINTERNATIONAL$$
(www.facebook.com/restaurantechivatonegro; Mistral 542; mains CH$3000-8500; h9am-11pm Sun-Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat; v)
Two blocks east of the plaza, Chivato Negro has a bohemian, vintage vibe with a spacious patio hidden in back. There’s a wide-ranging menu of sandwiches, pizzas and regional dishes (like grilled trout), plus a three-course menú del día for CH$5000. The cozy setting (with a roaring fire in the evening) invites lingering, whether over coffee or cocktails.
From December to March, there’s occasional live music on weekends.
Delicias del SolCHILEAN$$
(Villaseca village; mains incl wine CH$7000-8000; h1-5pm)
Don’t miss lunch at this restaurant 5km southeast of Vicuña, where a group of women discovered a groundbreaking way to cook with sunrays instead of hard-to-find firewood. It’s the best of Villaseca’s solar-kitchen restaurants, but service is slow. However, the food is quite tasty and paired with lovely vineyard views. Locally raised cabrito (goat) is the specialty.
Paraíso del ElquiCHILEAN$$
(%cell 9-8537-4883; http://ricardopacheco.cl; Chacabuco 237; mains CH$5800-9500; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat; v)
Opened by a professional chef, this cozy spot with a backyard, two small dining rooms and tables on the patio serves up regional specialties, with countless empanadas and good-value almuerzos (set lunches). Vegetarian offerings are also good.
8Information
There is a bank on the main plaza, which changes US dollars. The city center also has three ATMs.
Gather a bit of info on the town’s past and present at the municipal tourist office (%51-267-0308; www.turismovicuna.cl; San Martín 275; h8:30am-8pm Jan & Feb, 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun Mar-Dec), a few steps west of the main plaza.
For emergencies, head to the Hospital San Juan de Dios (%51-233-3424; cnr Independencia & Prat; h24hr), a few blocks north of Plaza de Armas.
8Getting There & Around
From Vicuña, eastbound Ruta 41 leads over the Andes to Argentina. A rugged, dusty and bumpy (though passable in a regular car) secondary road leads south to Hurtado and back down to Ovalle.
The bus terminal (cnr Prat & O’Higgins) has frequent buses to La Serena (CH$2000, one hour), Coquimbo (CH$2000, 1¼ hours), Pisco Elqui (CH$2000, 50 minutes) and Montegrande (CH$2000, 40 minutes). Expresso Norte has a twice-daily service at 11:45am and 9:45pm to Santiago (CH$12,000 to CH$18,000, seven hours). There’s a wider choice of destinations in La Serena.
Located inside the bus-terminal complex is the Terminal de Taxis Colectivos (cnr Prat & O’Higgins), which has fast taxi colectivos that run to La Serena (CH$2500, 50 minutes).
You can hire good-quality bikes (from CH$1000 per hour) at Elki Magic.
Montegrande
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This skinny roadside village is the former home of the internationally renowned poet Gabriela Mistral, who is a Nobel Prize winner and national icon. Aside from the fresh air and mountain views, there isn’t much to the tiny settlement, but you can visit a few key sites related to Mistral, including the poet’s final resting place.
The gravesite of Gabriela Mistral, Mausoleo Gabriela Mistral (Ruta D-485; CH$1000; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun) lies on a hillside just south of Montegrande’s main plaza. A winding path to the top is lined with quotes and biographical details about the famous poet, providing a fine tribute to her extraordinary life. Mistral received her primary schooling at the Casa Escuela y el Correo, where the humble Museo Casa-Escuela Gabriela Mistral (Calle Principal; CH$500; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm) is dedicated to the poet, with a reconstructed schoolroom and dorm.
Set in an old adobe casona, the peaceful Hotel Las Pleyades (%cell 9-8520-6983; www.elquihotelpleyades.cl; Calle Principal; d CH$70,000; ps) offers nice touches such as cane roofs and an outdoor plunge pool. Mesón del Fraile (Calle Principal; mains CH$8000-12,000; hnoon-6pm, closed Mon & Tue in low season), opposite the museum, is worth stopping for churrasco (steak), pizza, sandwiches or fresh juice.
Local buses provide regular service from Vicuña (CH$2000, 40 minutes).
THE BEST OF STARGAZING IN NORTE CHICO
The star of the stargazing show, the purpose-built Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca (%51-267-0330; adult/child CH$7500/4500), 9km northeast of Vicuña, is Elqui Valley’s biggest attraction. So big, in fact, that you’re likely to share the tour with hordes of other tourists, all looking for their chance to goggle at distant galaxies, star clusters and nebulae through a 30cm telescope.
Bilingual two-hour tours take place nightly every two hours between 8:30pm and 2:30am in summer and between 7:30pm and 1:30am in winter. The cheesy Cosmo Visión Andina tour (in Spanish only) includes presentations and music but no access to the telescopes – so you’re better off booking the basic astronomy tour.
Make reservations through the office at Av Gabriela Mistral 260 in Vicuña; advance booking is recommended. There is no public transportation, but a minivan takes visitors from the Vicuña office (reserve in advance, per person CH$3000). Some La Serena tour agencies arrange trips or you can hire a taxi in Vicuña.
Like Mamalluca, the shiny hilltop Observatorio Collowara (%cell 9-7645-2970; www.collowara.cl; Urmeneta 675, Andacollo; CH$5500) in Andacollo is built for tourists; no serious interstellar research is conducted here. Two-hour tours run in summer at 9:30pm, 11pm and 12:30am; in winter they are at 9pm. The facility boasts three viewing platforms and a 40cm telescope – slightly larger than that at Mamalluca. There are also three smaller telescopes available, so you won’t have to wait for long. There are plenty of accommodations in Andacollo, 54km from La Serena and connected by bus (CH$2000, 1½ hours) and colectivo (shared taxi; CH$2500, one hour).
The latest on the observatory front is Observatorio del Pangue (%51-241-2584; www.observatoriodelpangue.blogspot.com; off Ruta D-445; with transportation CH$25,000), 17km south of Vicuña, run by three enthusiastic French and Chilean astronomers. The two-hour tours (in English, French and Spanish) leave nightly – unless there’s a full moon – at 8:30pm (and on demand at 10:30pm) and offer pure observation, with a 10-person maximum.
Probing the mysteries of stars billions of kilometers into the past is all in a night’s work at the futuristic Observatorio Interamericano Cerro Tololo (%51-220-5200; www.ctio.noao.edu; Cerro Tololo) F, which sits at 2200m atop its hill. While visitors can’t stargaze through its monstrous telescopes (even the astronomers don’t do that as the telescopes first feed data into computer monitors), a daytime tour of the facilities is still an enlightening experience. Operated by the Tucson-based Association of Universities for Research in Astronomy (AURA; a group of about 25 institutions, including the Universidad de Chile), Tololo has an enormous 4m telescope. Free bilingual tours take place on Saturday only. Make reservations at least one month ahead in high season. Two-hour tours are held at 9am and 1pm. There is no public transportation so rent a car or taxi, or arrange to come with a tour operator (even then you still must make your own reservations with the observatory).
If you tire of getting herded around in the large observatories, you may be interested in the small, personalized astronomical tours (in English or Spanish) on offer at the Alfa Aldea (%51-241-2441; www.alfaaldea.cl; Parcela 17, La Viñita; adult/child CH$15,000/5000). Held in the on-site amphitheater, tours start with a short video exploring the basics of astronomy, then get you up close and personal with the celestial bodies via scientific-grade telescopes. It’s an open-air event – the whole thing takes place under the star-filled sky and small group sizes mean plenty of telescope time for everybody – but it can get frosty. Dress warmly (although the blankets, wine and vegetable soup that come with the tour help to cut the chill).
For professionally guided astronomy tours, contact Astronomy Adventures (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9879-4846; www.astronomyadventures.cl; Manuel Rodríguez 589, La Serena; astronomy tours CH$15,000-42,000), a La Serena–based outfit that arranges customized stargazing experiences all around Chile.
Pisco Elqui
%051 / POP 1200
Renamed to publicize the area’s most famous product, the former village of La Unión is a laid-back hideaway in the upper drainage area of the Río Claro, a tributary of the Elqui. It has become the area’s most popular backpacker draw in recent years, and while it can get overcrowded, it’s well worth a couple of days’ stay.
Note that Pisco Elqui doesn’t have an ATM or a bank so make sure to bring enough cash with you.
1Sights
Distileria Pisco MistralDISTILLERY
(%51-245-1358; www.destileriapiscomistral.cl; O’Higgins 746; tours from CH$6000; hnoon-7pm Jan & Feb, 10:30am-6pm Tue-Sun Mar-Dec)
The star attraction in Pisco Elqui is the Distileria Pisco Mistral, which produces the premium Mistral brand of pisco. The hour-long ‘museum’ tour gives you glimpses of the distillation process and includes a free tasting of two piscos and a drink at the adjacent restaurant, which hosts occasional live music.
2Activities
Pisco Elqui may be small in size but it’s big in terms of tours and activities you can do in and around the valley. These include guided treks (from CH$15,000 per half day), horseback-riding trips (from CH$8000 per hour, and more for multiday trips into the mountains), mountain-bike excursions (from CH$20,000) and stargazing trips (from CH$15,000).
Reputable agencies in town include Turismo Dagaz (%cell 9-7399-4105; www.turismodagaz.com; Prat; h9am-8pm) and Turismo Migrantes (%51-245-1917; www.turismomigrantes.cl; O’Higgins s/n; h10am-2pm & 3-7pm).
Bikes can be rented from several places in town for around CH$2000 per hour or CH$7000 per day.
4Sleeping
Hostal TriskelHOSTEL$
(%cell 9-9419-8680; www.hostaltriskel.cl; Baquedano s/n; r without bathroom per person CH$15,000; W)
Up the hill from town, this lovely adobe and wood house has seven clean rooms with four shared bathrooms and a shared kitchen. A giant fig tree provides shade for the patio and there’s a fruit orchard with lots of nooks, crannies and hammocks, plus laundry services.
Refugio del AngelCAMPGROUND$
(%cell 9-8245-9362; www.campingrefugiodelangel.cl; Calle El Condor; campsites per person CH$10,000, day use CH$4000)
This idyllic spot by the river has swimming holes, bathrooms and a little shop. The turnoff is 200m south of the plaza off Carrera.
Cabañas Pisco ElquiCABIN$
(%cell 9-8331-2592; Prat s/n; cabins CH$60,000; s)
Basic, medium-sized wood-floored cabins with full kitchen and a sizable front deck. The property rambles down the hillside, with a burbling stream running through it.
oEl Tesoro de ElquiHOTEL$$
(%51-245-1069; www.tesoro-elqui.cl; Prat s/n; s CH$30,000-40,000, d CH$45,000-55,000; Ws)
Up the hill from the center plaza, this tranquil oasis dotted with lemon trees, lush gardens and flowering vines has 10 appealing wooden bungalows with terraces. There’s a restaurant that serves great coffee and cake and you can also arrange guided excursions on-site.
Refugio Misterios de ElquiCABIN$$$
(%51-245-1126; www.misteriosdeelqui.cl; Prat s/n; d cabins CH$85,000; pWs)
Pisco Elqui’s most luxe choice, sitting on the edge of town on the road to Alcoguaz, with seven cabins set around lush gardens that slope down toward the swimming pool and the valley below. Cabins come with stylish decor, such as headboards made of recycled train tracks, wooden beams, cool tile floors and terraces.
5Eating & Drinking
Most restaurants in Pisco Elqui are also good spots for a drink as the evening wears on.
El Durmiente ElquinoINTERNATIONAL$
(Carrera s/n; mains CH$5000-7500; h1-10pm Tue-Sun)
Sample the tasty tapas, pizzas and interesting mains, like quinoa risotto, in the all-natural interior of this restobar full of wood, bamboo, clay and pebbles. Sip an artisanal beer or a glass of organic wine on the small patio out back, with nice mountain views.
La EscuelaCHILEAN$$
(Prat; CH$6500-12,000; h12:30-11:30pm)
For a memorable night out, head to this polished restaurant on the main road leading south of town. Grab a fireside seat in the courtyard and linger over grilled salmon, oven-baked kid or tender lamb raised locally, which pair nicely with wine and well-mixed cocktails. There are quinoa salads, quiche and at least one vegetarian plate of the day.
RustikaBAR
(Carrera s/n; h7pm-2am)
Just south of the plaza, Rustika is a welcoming spot for an evening libation, with outdoor tables set beside a gurgling brook, and warming fires by starlight. Cocktails aside, Rustika also serves up pizzas, quesadillas, sharing platters and fresh juices.
8Getting There & Away
Pisco Elqui has no gas station so fill up before leaving Vicuña.
Frequent buses travel between Pisco Elqui (CH$2000, 50 minutes) and Vicuña.
Cochiguaz
%051
New-age capital of northern Chile, the secluded valley of Cochiguaz is accredited with an extraordinary concentration of cosmic vibes, a vortex of powerful energies, much-publicized UFO sightings and formidable healing powers. But you needn’t be a believer to enjoy the beautiful valley, which is also the jumping-off point for hiking and horseback rides in the backcountry. It sometimes snows here in winter, so bring warm clothes.
1Sights
Centro Otzer LingBUDDHIST STUPA
(Estupa Cochiguaz; http://otzerling.com; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun)
A Buddhist stupa in a remote corner of northern Chile? You’ll think you took a wrong turn off the Panamericana and somehow ended up in the Himalaya rather than the Andes. Built in 2016, this evocative snow-white monument, complete with Tibetan prayer flags flapping in the breeze, looks all the more striking against the parched, mountainous backdrop.
4Sleeping & Eating
Tambo HuaraCABIN$
(%cell 9-9220-7237; www.tambohuara.cl; Km13; campsites river/forest per person CH$7000/10,000, cabins without/without bathroom CH$40,000/35,000)
An idyllic little spot nestled between the trees by the river, Tambo Huara offers medium-sized eco-cabins (those with bathroom have composting toilets and solar showers). The riverside campsites are fantastic and there’s meditation, healing therapies and yoga available on-site.
Camping CochiguazCAMPGROUND$
(%51-245-1154; www.campingcochiguaz.blogspot.com; Camino Cochiguaz; campsites per person CH$8000)
Amid eucalyptus trees, Camping Cochiguaz has some labyrinthine camping grounds down by the river, including some nicely shaded sites right on the water. It’s 17km from Montegrande at the end of a tortuous dirt track. It also offers horseback-riding trips.
Luna de QuarzoCABAñAS$$
(%cell 9-8501-5994; www.lunadecuarzo.cl/tortuga.html; El Pangue, Km11; cabins CH$60,000-90,000; W)
On a beautiful mountain property, Luna de Quarzo has well-equipped wooden cabins with wood trim, river stone and adobe walls and bamboo ceilings. The kitchens are useful, as dining options are limited and you’ll want to bring your own food. Afternoons spent relaxing by the poolside are followed by nights of stargazing.
Casa del AguaGUESTHOUSE$$
(%cell 9-5867-6522; www.cabanascasadelagua.cl; Km13; 2-/4-/6-person cabins CH$85,000/100,000/150,000; ps)
Hummingbirds flit around the lush gardens of Casa del Agua, a pretty cabin complex 13km north of Montegrande, perched delicately along the banks of the Río Cochiguaz. There’s a bar, restaurant and walking paths. It also offers tours.
El Alma ZenHOTEL$$
(%cell 9-9047-3861; www.refugiocochiguaz.cl; Km11; s/d from CH$45,000/75,000; s)
Hippy-kitsch El Alma Zen has well-equipped cabins, a spa, two swimming pools and a pretty location backing into eucalyptus forest down by the river.
Restaurant Borde RioCHILEAN$$
(%cell 9-9905-1490; Km12; mains CH$9000-12,000; hnoon-11pm; v)
Amid lush foliage beside the gurgling Rio Cochiguaz, this entirely outdoor spot has the most enchanting setting for kilometers around. Start with ceviche or ostiones a la parmesana (scallops with Parmesan) before moving on to grilled meats, fish or veg-friendly pastas. Bring your swimsuit so you can go for a dip after the meal.
8Getting There & Away
There’s currently one bus a day to Cochiguaz from Montegrande on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 6pm. It travels from Cochiguaz to Montegrande at 7am on the same days. Otherwise, you can contract a driver in Montegrande who will charge around CH$10,000 per vehicle (up to four people), or do as the locals do and try to hitch a ride.
Some guesthouses in Cochiguaz will also provide transport, or can hook you up with a driver.
Paso del Agua Negra
A spectacular roller coaster of a road crosses the mountains into Argentina, 185km east of Vicuña. At an ear-popping 4765m above sea level, it’s one of the highest Andean passes between Chile and Argentina. It’s also one of the best areas to see the frozen snow formations known as penitentes, so called because they resemble lines of monks garbed in tunics. There are also accessible glaciers on both the Chilean and Argentinean sides.
From Vicuña, Ruta 41 climbs along the Río Turbio to the Chilean customs and immigration post at Juntas del Toro. It continues south along the turquoise reservoir known as La Laguna before switchbacking steeply northeast to Agua Negra. The road leads to the hot-springs resort of Termas de Pismanta in Argentina, and to the provincial capital San Juan.
The route is usually open to vehicular traffic from mid-November to mid-March or April, and cyclists enjoy the challenge of this steep, difficult route. The road is passable for any passenger vehicle in good condition. There is no public transportation, but agencies in Vicuña and Pisco Elqui offer trips during summer.
Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt
Pods of bottlenose dolphins play in the waters of this national reserve (Islas Damas; adult/child CH$6000/3000; h9am-3pm Dec-Mar, to 3pm Wed-Sun Apr-Nov), while slinky sea otters slide off boulders and penguins waddle along the rocky shoreline – keeping their distance from sprawling sea-lion colonies. The 888-hectare reserve embraces three islands on the border between Regiónes III and IV, and makes one of the best excursions in Norte Chico. The reserve takes its name from the Humboldt penguin, which nests on rocky Isla Choros.
1Sights & Activities
At Punta de Choros boats ply the route to Isla Damas; it lies 5.6km away from the shore. This 60-hectare metamorphic outcrop capped by a low granite summit has two snowy-white beaches with crystal-clear water: Playa La Poza, where boats land, and the fine-sand Playa Tijeras, a 1km walk away. Visitors are required to pay the visitor fee at a Conaf stand at the Isla Damas dock and are only allowed to stay on the island for one hour.
Hired boats also pass Isla Choros, where you’re likely to see pods of bottlenose dolphins that splash alongside the boat, a large sea-lion colony, groups of otters and Humboldt penguins, and massive rookeries of cormorants, gulls and boobies.
Isla Chañaral, the largest and most northerly of the three islands comprising the reserve, is less easily accessible but most protected and least crowded. Its access point is the scenic coastal village of Caleta Chañaral de Aceituno (about 27km north of Punta de Choros), from where boats take people to the island for about CH$90,000 (based on 10 people) between 9am and 4pm. There are a couple of campgrounds and a simple eatery. Explora Sub (%cell 9-7795-4983; www.explorasub.cl; Chañaral de Aceituno; 1-tank dive with rental from CH$60,000) in Chañaral de Aceituno arranges diving trips in the reserve.
Bad weather and high waves can occasionally prevent boat trips: call the Conaf station (%51-224-4769; www.conaf.cl; h8:30am-5:30pm) to check conditions before leaving. Note that tickets for boat trips are only sold till 2pm.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mare AltaCABAñAS$$
(%cell 9-8120-6250; www.marealta.info; Punta de Choros; cabins from CH$90,000, campsite for 2 CH$20,000)
Overlooking the sea, this beautifully located spot has a handful of small but comfortable cabins as well as a few rooms in a large wooden boat plopped right on the sands. There’s a restaurant, camping, and you can arrange excursions.
Costa BahiaCHILEAN$$
(%cell 9-7734-1205; Punta de Choros; mains CH$6000-11,000; h10am-8:30pm)
The best place for a post-trip meal is this airy, hilltop eatery with excellent seafood and efficient service. There are outdoor tables in front (facing the road), but no ocean views.
8Getting There & Around
From a turnoff on the Panamericana, about 87km north of La Serena, a rough gravel road passes through Los Choros and continues to Punta de Choros (123km from La Serena, about two hours by car). Caleta Chañaral de Aceituno is another 27km to the north.
The park is best reached from La Serena. Hector Galleguillos offers bus service to and from La Serena (CH$5000, two hours). Buses from La Serena depart from in front of the Los Griegos panadería (bakery) near the corner of Aguirre and Matta at 8:30am. Call first to reserve a spot. La Serena–based travel agencies also offer tours.
At the Punta de Choros dock, you’ll see boat operators offering trips for around CH$10,000 per person. This price is based on a 10-person minimum, so if there aren’t enough passengers, you’ll either have to pay the difference or wait until enough prospective passengers show up. Your best bet is to show up in the morning (weekends are busiest); during low season, things are quite slow.
THE PLIGHT OF THE PENGUIN
Humboldt penguins breed along the Peruvian and Chilean coasts. The International Union for the Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources lists them as a ‘vulnerable species,’ with an estimated population of around 12,000 breeding pairs. Overfishing and the exploitation of guano were the primary causes for the penguin’s decline, and experts say that if new conservation measures are not put in place, the species could well become extinct in the next few decades.
While noise and pollution from boats visiting the area is affecting local marine life, it is really Isla Damas – the only place where boats can land – that is suffering the most. Local biologists are reporting that the number of birds that call the island home has significantly dropped in recent years. The island was originally supposed to have a maximum visitation of 60 people per day. But in high season, hundreds of tourists can pack the island daily. If you do decide to visit the park, you may consider skipping an excursion to Isla Damas altogether. If you visit the island, you should definitely keep to the established paths.
Huasco Valley
A lush thumb of greenery snaking its way down from the Andes, the fertile valley of the Río Huasco, roughly midway between Copiapó and La Serena, is famous for its plump olives, pisco and a deliciously sweet wine known as pajarete. However, the region’s other claim to fame – mining – is now threatening this agricultural oasis after Canadian mining conglomerate Barrick Gold began a controversial mining project here in 2009. To learn more about this issue, and the indigenous Diaguita community’s struggle to protect their ancestral land, see the Cry of the Andes documentary.
Vallenar
%051 / POP 53,000
Huasco Valley’s principal town, Vallenar is a bucolic settlement that runs at a soothingly slow pace. Strange as it seems, its name is a corruption of Ballinagh – an Irish town and home to the region’s colonial governor, Ambrosio O’Higgins. After serious earthquake damage in 1922, Vallenar was rebuilt with wood instead of adobe, but the city’s buildings still rest on unconsolidated sediments.
Though there is little to do in town other than stroll around the central plaza, it’s a good jumping-off point for visits to Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe and a place to break the journey if driving or heading up north.
Motorists often bypass Vallenar because Puente Huasco (Huasco Bridge), which spans the valley, does not drop into the town itself. At the bridge’s southern end, the Vallenar–Huasco Hwy leads east then branches across the river.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal Real QuillahueHOSTAL$
(%51-261-9992; hotel_takia@yahoo.es; Plaza 70; incl breakfast s/d from CH$20,000/27,000, without bathroom from CH$15,000/22,000; pW)
Right on the south side of the plaza, this attractive, gated guesthouse has simply furnished rooms with an old-fashioned charm.
Hotel del MarquesHOTEL$$
(%51-261-3892; www.hoteldelmarques.cl; Marañon 680; s/d/tr from CH$35,000/50,000/60,000; W)
A few blocks north of the main square (Plaza Ambrosio O’Higgins), this friendly place offers some of the best accommodations in town, with modern and cheery yellow rooms with all the mod cons and views over the corrugated-iron rooftops to the hills beyond town.
Hotel CecilHOTEL$$
(%51-260-0680; reservas.cecilhotel@gmail.com; Prat 1059; s/d from CH$35,000/45,000; pW)
Four blocks east of the plaza, Hotel Cecil offers more value than your average Vallenar digs, with cabin-style rooms and a verdant courtyard with a pool. It’s a friendly spot, and there’s a popular grill house next door.
oNativoCHILEAN$$
(Ramírez 1387; mains CH$7800-11,000; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; Wv)
On a leafy block a 10-minute walk east of the plaza, this bohemian bar and eatery has earthy decor of wood and adobe, snacks, and pizzas with unusual toppings like goat’s cheese and charqui (jerky). Excellent (and massive) sandwiches too. Has craft beer and good cocktails best enjoyed on the appealing patio (sunshine by day, fires by night).
Club Social VallenarINTERNATIONAL$$
(%cell 9-8204-8612; http://clubsocialvallenar.cl; Prat 899; h12:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)
Set with eye-catching tile floors and black-and-white photos on the walls, this casual restaurant serves up Chilean, Peruvian and Italian fare with a dash of style. Highlights include lomo saltado (marinated steak), seafood spaghetti and refreshing pisco sours. There’s live music (jazz, blues) some weekends.
It’s two blocks east of the plaza.
8Information
Banks with ATMs are available around the plaza.
Municipal Tourism Office (%51-275-6417; turismovallenar@gmail.com; Prat 1094; h8:30am-2pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Four blocks east of the plaza, this helpful office stocks a few brochures and maps.
8Getting There & Away
Vallenar’s Terminal de Buses (cnr Prat & Av Matta) is at the west end of town, some 500m west of Plaza de Armas. Pullman (%51-261-0493; cnr Atacama & Prat) is right next door, while Tur Bus (%51-261-1738; Prat) is opposite the main bus terminal; both have extensive north- and southbound bus routes. Destinations include Santiago (CH$24,000, nine hours), La Serena (from CH$6000, three hours), Copiapó (from CH$5000, two hours) and Antofagasta (CH$14,000, 10 hours).
Huasco
%051 / POP 10,200
The picturesque fishing port of Huasco, an hour west of Vallenar by paved highway, has a beautiful seafront studded with squat palms, sculpture, shady benches and a soaring lighthouse. There’s also a good beach that sprawls as far as the eye can see. The small town itself is a pleasant spot for a stroll, with a waterfront promenade, a lively main street (Calle Craig) and a sleepy central plaza, presided over by a church that resembles the upward swooping bow of a fishing boat.
One of Huasco’s emblems is its 22m-high lighthouse, El Faro de Huasco (Costanera; h11am-5pm Sat & Sun) F. Its elegantly tapering octagonal shape and copper dome looks all the more striking against the rocky shoreline and mountainous backdrop. If you’re around on a weekend, make the climb to the top for a sweeping view across the coastline.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostal San FernandoHOTEL$
(%51-253-1726; Valdivia 176; s/d from CH$22,000/28,000)
Oddly out of place overlooking a desert shoreline, alpine-style Hostal San Fernando has great ocean views from every room. Ask for a new room.
Hotel SolarisHOTEL$$
(%51-253-9001; www.hotelsolaris.cl; Cantera 207; s/d from CH$55,000/60,000; pWs)
The modern and somewhat out of place Solaris is Huasco’s best hotel. Rooms are set in earth tones and well-equipped with minifridge and small desk. Some have balconies.
Book a top (3rd) floor room for the best views.
BahiaCHILEAN$$
(Muelle Fiscal, 2nd fl; mains CH$5500-9300; hnoon-10:30pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
This unfussy place is a local favorite for grilled fish and filling lunch specials. It’s above the fish market, and the big windows offer fine views over the bay, with its bobbing fishing boats watched over by the sentinel-like lighthouse.
El FaroSEAFOOD$$
(%cell 9-8686-0367; Av Costanera s/n, Playa Grande; mains CH$7200-10,200; h12:30-4pm & 7:30-10:30pm Mon-Sat, 12:30-5pm Sun)
Just below the lighthouse, El Faro offers the best views in town and a big menu of seafood hits, including eight types of ceviche and a wide variety of grilled fish, plus grilled meats and empanadas.
8Information
Tourist office (Calle Craig; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Helpful office in the former train station near the main plaza. Can advise on area attractions, including good roads for seeing desert blooms if you’re here at the right time (June to October).
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Huasco depart from the front of Vallenar’s Terminal de Buses every 15 minutes or so (CH$1600, one hour). To return to Vallenar just flag down a bus from Huasco’s main plaza. They pass every 15 minutes or so.
Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe
This isolated national park (adult/child CH$5000/1500; h8:30am-8pm Dec-Mar, to 5:30pm Apr-Nov) hugs the desert coastline 40km north of Huasco. It generally sees little traffic, except in those years when the desierto florido (flowering desert) bursts into bloom. There is also an interesting selection of cacti, flighty guanacos and canny foxes.
The park is accessible only by private vehicle. It consists of a coastal sector south of Carrizal Bajo around Punta Los Pozos, and an inland sector along the Quebrada Carrizal, 15km southeast of Carrizal Bajo. You can camp at Camping Playa Blanca (campsites per person CH$4000, showers per 3min CH$800) overlooking the beach. There are good beach breaks along the coast here: good news for surfers, bad news for swimmers.
There’s no public transportation to the park. If you’re driving from Huasco, take the decent road along the coast north from the nearby farming village of Huasco Bajo. Alternatively, a reasonable dirt road leaves the Panamericana 40km north of Vallenar.
THE FLOWERING DESERT
In some years a brief but astonishing transformation takes place in Norte Chico’s barren desert. If there has been sufficiently heavy rainfall, the parched land erupts into a multicolored carpet of wildflowers – turning a would-be backdrop from Lawrence of Arabia into something better resembling a meadow scene from Bambi.
This exquisite but ephemeral phenomenon is appropriately dubbed the desierto florido (flowering desert). It occurs between late July and September in wetter years when dormant wildflower seeds can be coaxed into sprouting. Many of the flowers are endangered species, most notably the endemic garra de león (lion’s claw, one of Chile’s rarest and most beautiful flowers). Even driving along the Panamericana near Vallenar you may spot clumps of the delicate white or purple suspiro de campo (sigh of the field), mauve, purple or white pata de Guanaco (Guanaco’s hoof) and yellow corona de fraile (monk’s crown) coloring the roadside.
Llanos de Challe is one of the best places to see this phenomenon, although the region’s erratic rainfall patterns make it difficult to predict the best sites in any given year.
Copiapó
%052 / POP 154,000
With Copiapó’s pleasing climate, a leafy main plaza and many historic buildings, you may find yourself oddly comfortable amid its milling miners and down-to-business pace. However, it’s not really worth stopping for long unless you’re heading to the remote mountains near the Argentine border, especially the breathtaking Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces, Laguna Verde and Ojos del Salado, the highest active volcano in the world.
The town, nestling in the narrow valley floor on Río Copiapó’s north bank, is the site of several historical firsts: South America’s first railroad (completed 1852) ran from here to Caldera; here, too, appeared the nation’s first telegraph and telephone lines, and Chile’s first gasworks. All came on the back of the 18th-century gold boom and the rush to cash in on silver discovered at neighboring Chañarcillo in 1832. Today it’s mainly copper that keeps the miners and beer-hall gals in the green.
1Sights
oMina San JoséMINE
(off Carretera C-327; visitor center free, guided tour CH$5000; h10am-6pm Thu-Sun)
In 2010, 33 miners were trapped more than 700m underground after a devastating collapse within the mountain where they’d been working. Following a Herculean effort – that pulled resources from a number of countries – all the men were successfully rescued. Televised before a global audience of an estimated one billion, the survivors emerged one by one from the specially built rescue capsule to the cheers of friends, family and assorted onlookers – including the president of Chile, Sebastián Piñera.
Although the mine was closed following the accident, the government reopened the site as a tourist attraction in 2015. At the entrance, you’ll pass a hillside with 33 flags (one for each miner, including one Bolivian), which lies near the former site of Campamento Esperanza (Cape Hope), where family and loved ones held a round-the-clock vigil until the men were rescued. Indeed, without the relentless pressure by the miner’s spouses, girlfriends and family, rescuers might have given up on the men before they ever made contact (a harrowing 18 days after their entrapment began).
Overlooking the site is a small visitor centre that gives details of what the men endured during their 10-week imprisonment deep below the surface. You can watch videos of the unfolding saga and the miners’ rescue, including some powerful reunions with men who were taken for dead. The highlight is the tour (in Spanish only) of the site led by Jorge Galleguillos, one of the original 33.
The mine is around 50km northwest of Copiapó. It’s reachable by normal vehicle, though most tour agencies in Copiapó also arrange excursions.
Museu Regional de AtacamaMUSEUM
(Atacama 98; h9am-5:45pm Tue-Fri, 10am-12:45pm & 3-5:45pm Sat, 10:30am-1:15pm Sun) F
This catch-all museum provides an overview of the region’s natural and human history, its mineral wealth, and key events that have shaped history over the centuries. Among the wide-ranging displays, you’ll find ancient zoomorphic vessels for preparing hallucinogens used by indigenous shamans, pottery from the El Molle period (circa AD 700) and weaponry from the War in the Pacific when Copiapó was a base of operations for the Chilean invasion of Peru and Bolivia.
There’s also a room with period furnishings and portraits of industrialists and military figures from the 19th century. The Sala de Mineira (Miner’s Room) has old objects used by laborers who toiled underground, as well as a display related to ‘Los 33’ – the 33 miners who were successfully rescued after being trapped underground for 69 days in 2010. The courtyard contains the original pod (the Fénix 2) used to rescue the men.
Museo Minero de Tierra AmarillaMUSEUM
(%52-232-9136; www.mmta.cl; Sector Punta del Cobre s/n, Tierra Amarilla; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat) F
To find out more about the region’s geology, head 18km southeast of town to this private museum near the village of Tierra Amarilla. Surrounded by working mines, the restored 200-year-old quincho (barbecue house/hut) features eight rooms exhibiting fossils, volcanic rocks, meteorites, minerals and oxidated rare stones. Catch a yellow colectivo from the corner of Chacabuco and Chañarcillo.
LOS 33
For 121 years, the San José mine 45km north of Copiapó went about its business of digging for gold and copper deep in the Atacama Desert. Then in the afternoon of August 5, 2010, a major cave-in trapped 33 of its workers 700m underground. Suddenly, San José was in the spotlight and Los 33, as the buried miners became known, became unlikely superstars of one of the most televised rescue efforts in human history.
Less than six months before this incident, Chile had gone through the 2010 earthquake and the subsequent tsunami. With sympathy levels running high, the eyes of the nation were on the plight of the miners and their families. Under immense pressure, the government took over the rescue from the mine owners. The venture, at an estimated cost of US$20 million, involved international drilling rig teams, experts from NASA and several multinationals. On October 13, 2010, in a televised finale that lasted nearly 24 hours and drew an estimated viewing audience of one billion from around the world, the last of the 33 men was hoisted up to freedom through a narrow shaft, and a sign was held up for the TV cameras reading: ‘Misión cumplida Chile’ (Mission accomplished Chile).
While they were trapped, the ordeal of Los 33 became a round-the-clock soap opera. At one point, a buried man had a wife and a lover waiting for him above. After 69 days in the pitch-dark depths of the earth, the 33 men resurfaced to find themselves in the spotlight. Next they were cheered on by football fans at Wembley stadium, jetted off on all-expenses-paid trips to Disneyland, showered with gifts and money and flown to New York to be interviewed by David Letterman.
But the dark side of fame caught up with the miners. With the public drama over, the men faced a set of medical and psychological issues. A few years after the event, most were struggling to find work; some returned to work in the mines. And for all their short-lived fame, the men earned little financial gain for their suffering. This despite their story eventually making it to Hollywood: The 33, starring Antonio Banderas, was released in 2015.
Today, you can visit the Mina San José – above ground – where the men were trapped. One of the miners, Jorge Galleguillos, leads tours (in Spanish only). In Copiapó, it’s also worth visiting the Museo Regional de Atacama, which has artifacts from the 33, including the original rescue capsule.
TTours
ChillitripOUTDOORS
(%9-8190-9019; www.chillitrip.cl; Los Carrera 464; tours from CH$15,000)
Offers a wide range of trips, including adventures like mountain biking, sandboarding, visits to deserted beaches, night-sky astronomical observations, and two-day excursions to Parque Nevado Tres Cruces. The office is located in the back of a small shopping gallery, one block from the plaza.
Geo AdventuresOUTDOORS
(%cell 9-9613-1426; www.geoadventures.cl; Juan Martinez 635; full-day tour from CH$70,000; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)
A reputable outfitter that leads a full range of tours, from trips to see the flowering desert (when in bloom) to 4WD adventures in the Parque Nacional Nevada Tres Cruces. Also goes out to the San José mine, combined with sightseeing along the coast.
Puna de AtacamaTOURS
(%cell 9-9051-3202; www.punadeatacama.com; day trips from CH$115,000)
Ercio Mettifogo Rendic offers fun customized tours to surrounding highlights as well as lots of secret spots in the desert and the mountains.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel El SolHOTEL$
(%52-221-5672; Rodríguez 550; s/d CH$25,000/32,000; pW)
Cheerful yellow-painted hotel with a string of simple but clean rooms at a good price, just a short walk from the plaza.
oHotel La CasonaHOTEL$$
(%52-221-7277; www.lacasonahotel.cl; O’Higgins 150; s/d from CH$48,000/54,000; W)
There’s airiness and charm to this homey 12-room hotel a 10-minute walk west of the plaza, boasting bilingual owners and a series of leafy patios. All room categories have a country-casual feel, hardwood floors and cable TVs. The restaurant serves delicious dinners.
DiventareCAFE$
(www.facebook.com/cafeteriadiventare; O’Higgins 760; sandwiches CH$2500-5000; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat)
A short stroll from the plaza, Diventare is a charming, sun-drenched cafe with outdoor tables perfect for enjoying quality espressos, yogurt with granola and baguette sandwiches. The gelato counter is a big draw on hot days.
La ChinganaCHILEAN$$
(www.facebook.com/lachingana.restopub; Atacama 271; mains CH$7000-15,000; h1pm-3am Mon-Sat, 8pm-3am Sun)
A lively spot for a meal or a drink, with various art-filled rooms and an inviting back terrace. Three-course daily lunch specials (CH$5000) are good value. The cocktails are first-rate and there’s live music on weekends.
LegadoCHILEAN$$
(%52-254-1776; www.facebook.com/legadorestaurant; O’Higgins 12; mains CH$10,000-15,000; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)
Copiapo’s best restaurant for a splurge, Legado serves up beautifully grilled black steaks, creamy scallop and shrimp risotto, and mouthwatering fresh fish amid a series of elegantly set dining rooms. Service is attentive and there’s a solid wine list.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Tololo PampaBAR
(Atacama 291; h7pm-3am Tue-Sat)
A happening boho joint with a series of artsy colorful rooms and an open-air back patio with rough-hewn furniture and an outdoor fireplace. Come for drinks and late-night snacks such as quesadillas and fajitas (CH$4500 to CH$10,000).
8Information
Numerous ATMs are located at banks around the plaza.
Conaf (%52-221-3404; Rodriguez 434; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri) Has information on regional parks, including brochures in English about Pan de Azúcar.
Hospital San José (%52-246-5600; Los Carrera 1320; h24hr) Medical care, 1.4km east of Plaza Prat.
Sernatur (%52-221-2838; Los Carrera 691; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun Jan & Feb, 8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri Mar-Dec) The well-run tourist office on the main plaza gives out a wealth of materials and information in English.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The Aeropuerto Desierto de Atacama (%52-252-3600; Ruta 5 Norte, Km863, Caldera) is about 50km west of Copiapó.
LAN (%600-526-2000; Colipí 484, Mall Plaza Real, Local A-102; h9am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-1:30pm Sat) flies to Santiago daily (from CH$60,000, 1½ hours).
Private taxis to the Aeropuerto Desierto de Atacama cost CH$28,000; try Radio Taxi San Francisco (%52-221-8788). There’s also Transfer Casther (%cell 9-6545-6386) which ferries new arrivals to town (CH$7000, 40 minutes). Buses and taxi colectivos plowing between Copiapó and Caldera may agree to drop you at the junction, from where it’s a straightforward 300m walk to the airport.
BUS & TAXI COLECTIVO
Bus companies are scattered through Copiapó’s southern quarter. Virtually all north–south buses stop here, as do many bound for the interior. Pullman Bus (%52-221-2629; Colipí 127) has a large terminal with many departures as does Tur Bus (%52-223-8612; Chañarcillo 650). Other companies include Expreso Norte (%52-223-1176), Buses Libac (%52-221-2237) and Condor Bus (%52-221-3645; www.condorbus.cl), all located in a common terminal at Chañarcillo 650. Note that many buses to northern desert destinations leave at night.
Standard destinations and common fares are shown in the following table.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Antofagasta | 15,000 | 8 |
| Arica | 25,000 | 18 |
| Calama | 20,000 | 10 |
| Iquique | 26,000 | 15 |
| La Serena | 10,000 | 5 |
| Santiago | 30,000 | 12 |
| Vallenar | 7000 | 2 |
Buses Casther (%52-221-8889; Buena Esperanza 557) go every 30 minutes to Caldera (CH$2500).
8Getting Around
Copiapó’s car-hire agencies include Hertz (%52-221-3522; Av Copayapu 173; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) and Budget (%52-252-4591; Rómulo Peña 102; h8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, to 1:30pm Sat); both can also be found at the airport. Another Chilean option is Rodaggio (%52-221-2153; www.rodaggio.cl; Colipí 127; h8:30am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) which has slightly cheaper rates and occasional multiday deals.
Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces
Hard-to-reach Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces (adult/child CH$5000/1500; h8:30am-6pm) has all the rugged beauty and a fraction of the tourists of more famous high-altitude parks further north. Apart from pristine peaks and first-rate climbing challenges, the park shields some wonderful wildlife: flamingos spend summer here; large herds of vicuñas and guanacos roam the slopes; the lakes are home to giant and horned coots, Andean geese and gulls; and even the occasional condor and puma are spotted.
The 591-sq-km park is separated into two sectors of the high Andes along the international highway to Argentina via Paso de San Francisco. The larger Sector Laguna Santa Rosa comprises 470 sq km surrounding its namesake lake at 3700m, and includes the dirty-white salt-flat Salar de Maricunga to the north.
The considerably smaller Sector Laguna del Negro Francisco surrounds a lake of the same name. The shallow waters are ideal for the 8000 birds that summer here, including Andean flamingos, Chilean flamingos and few rare James flamingos. The highest quantity of birds is present from December through February. Conaf runs the cozy Refugio Laguna del Negro Francisco (per person per night CH$10,000), with beds, cooking facilities, electricity, flush toilets and hot showers. Bring your own bed linen, drinking water and cooking gas.
The relatively comfy Refugio Flamenco (%cell 9-9051-3202; erciomettifogo@gmail.com; campsites per person CH$15,000, dm CH$20,000, r per person CH$40,000; hSep-Apr) has a 12-bed bunk room, with electricity, a proper bathroom and shared kitchen. There are also cushier private rooms with en suite available.
It’s easy to get lost on your way to the national park and there’s no public transportation, so we recommend taking a tour from Copiapó. If you decide to attempt it by car, a high-clearance 4WD is highly recommended, as well as a satellite phone and a good map.
Sector Laguna Santa Rosa is 146km east of Copiapó via Ruta 31 and another (nameless) road up the scenic Quebrada de Paipote. Sector Laguna del Negro Francisco is another 81km south via a rambling road that drops into the Río Astaburuaga valley.
Ojos del Salado
Located just outside the Nevado Tres Cruces park boundaries, 6893m-high Ojos del Salado is Chile’s highest peak (69m below South America’s highest peak, Aconcagua in Argentina) and the highest active volcano in the world; its most recent activity (steam and gas expulsion) was in 1993.
2Activities
The mountain can be climbed between November and March. While some people try to climb it in eight days, this is not advisable. Only 25% of people attempting to reach the peak actually get there, and that’s not because it’s a technical climb – only the last 50m or so requires skill. It’s because people don’t take time to acclimatize slowly, so be wiser and allow 12 days for the climb.
Expeditions typically spend nights in two shelters en route to the peak. They start at the spectacular turquoise lake Laguna Verde (elevation 4342m), about 65km beyond Laguna Santa Rosa, which glows like liquid kryptonite – brighter even than the intense blue of the sky. There’s a frigid campsite beside the lake, as well as shallow thermal baths in which to heat frozen toes. Further up, at 4540m, climbers stay at Refugio Claudio Lucero. The next one up, at 5100m, is the Universidad de Atacama, managed by Refugio Atacama. Determined climbers then reach Refugio Tejos (5700m), from where only the peak remains.
A number of outfits lead trips to the summit, including reputable outfitters like Aventurismo Expediciones or ChileMontaña. Because Ojos del Salado straddles the border, foreign climbers must get authorization from Chile’s Dirección de Fronteras y Límites (Difrol) (www.difrol.cl), which oversees border-area activities. These permits are free, but must be arranged in advance. Contact Difrol for a permit.
ChileMontañaOUTDOORS
(%cell 9-8259-3786; http://andesadventureguides.com)
Santiago-based adventure company with a solid reputation for its outdoor adventures.
Aventurismo ExpedicionesADVENTURE
(%cell 9-9599-2184; www.aventurismo.cl; 8-/12-day excursion US$3200/4200)
This agency has a solid reputation for its climbs up Ojos del Salado. Prices are lower if you’re not climbing solo (12-day program for a group of three is US$2000 per person).
8Getting There & Away
You’ll need your own wheels to reach this area or go on an organized tour.
Caldera
%052 / POP 17,700
Year-round sun, some great beaches and abundant seafood make Caldera – once the second-biggest port during the 19th-century mining boom – one of the most popular seaside retreats in Región III, along with its sister resort at nearby Bahía Inglesa. While Caldera is hugely popular with vacationing Chileans, most foreign visitors fall in love with neighboring Bahía Inglesa for its crop of great little hotels and restaurants and its laid-back vibe. If you’re on a budget, it’s cheaper to stay in Caldera by night and spend your days on Bahía’s beach.
1Sights & Activities
The town’s beach is slightly contaminated with gasoline from the nearby dock. You are better off taking a short day trip to Bahía Inglesa or further afield to Playa La Virgen. There’s a 7km bike trail from Caldera to Bahía Inglesa. Hire bikes from Qapaq Raymi.
Casa TorniniMUSEUM
(www.casatornini.cl; Paseo Gana 210; CH$2500; htours 11:30am & 4:30pm Mar-Dec, noon & 8pm Jan & Feb)
This red neoclassical mansion from the early 1890s, once owned by a family of Italian immigrants, is the town’s newest attraction. The guided tours in Spanish, English or German take in six period rooms, with historical items and original furniture, plus two spaces that host temporary photo and art exhibits.
Centro Cultural Estación CalderaHISTORIC BUILDING
(Wheelwright s/n; paleontology museum CH$1000; h10:30am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-2pm & 4-8pm Sat & Sun) F
Built in 1850, this distinctive building on the north side of the jetty was the terminus for South America’s first railroad. Today it houses a gorgeously airy exhibition space with wooden beams, sometimes used for festivals and various events, and a paleontology museum.
Muelle PesqueroHISTORIC BUILDING
Down by the seafront, Caldera’s colorful fishing jetty teems with hungry pelicans, colorful little boats and knife-wielding señoras busily gutting and frying the day’s catch.
Qapaq RaymiOUTDOORS
(%9-7386-3041; Edwards 420; half-/full-day tours from CH$10,000/18,000)
This enthusiastic new outfit offers tours to Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar, indigenous villages, white-sand beaches and the Mina San José among other destinations. You can also hire bikes here (half-/full day from CH$4000/8000) and arrange airport transfers.
Trimaran EcotourBOATING
(%cell 9-9866-4134; Muelle Pesquero; adult/child CH$5000/3000)
You can take a one-hour boat tour to the lighthouse, spotting penguins and sea lions en route. Trimaran Ecotour has a kiosk on the jetty; it runs several tours daily (12:30pm, 2pm, 3:30pm and 5:30pm) during summer, and on Saturday (11am) only out of season.
4Sleeping
oQapaq RaymiHOSTEL$
(%9-7386-3041; Edwards 420; dm/d CH$12,000/25,000; W) S
New in 2017, Qapaq Raymi has a friendly, laid-back vibe. Guests feel right at home in this art-filled converted house, complete with well-equipped kitchen, lounge (where you can watch films, or borrow the guitar), comfy guestrooms, and back patio – a great spot for barbecues and meeting other travelers.
The hostel has loads of tips on exploring the region and arranges tours, and has a strong green ethos, with recycling, composting and repurposed furniture (including bed frames made from upcycled wooden pallets).
El Aji RojoHOSTEL$
(%9-8325-2341; Tocornal 453; d CH$25,000; W)
A short stroll from the plaza, El Aji Rojo offers pleasant but simply furnished rooms, plus a fully equipped kitchen for guest use and a little backyard sitting area.
oCasa Hostal El FaroGUESTHOUSE$$
(%9-7369-6902; www.casahostalelfaro.com; Pasaje Alcalde Gigoux 504; s/d/apt CH$31,000/45,000/75,000; W)
In a tiny hillside neighborhood about 1.4km northwest of the centre, this welcoming guesthouse has just a handful of rooms and one apartment well-equipped for groups. The rooms boast a cheery design with attractive furnishings, and the deck offers sweeping views over the bay. Guests can also use the kitchen.
Hotel Costa FosilHOTEL$$
(%52-231-6451; www.jandy.cl; Gallo 560; s/d CH$35,000/46,000; pW)
This friendly hotel offers a central location, just half a block from the plaza. Its 23 pleasant rooms are set around a breezy patio and there’s a small sunny terrace upstairs. Coffee and tea are available around the clock.
5Eating
Seafood fans should head to the Terminal Pesquero behind the old train station. There you’ll find simple bustling places with fresh fish served up to fine views.
There’s also one reliable waterfront seafood eatery. Apart from that, most Caldera restaurants are casual, unfussy affairs
For a broader variety, head over to Bahía Inglesa.
oCafe MuseoCAFE$
(Edwards 479A; cakes CH$1200-2600, sandwiches from CH$2500; h10am-noon & 5-8pm Mon-Sat; W)
Head to this cute little cafe with old posters and newspaper clips, adjacent to Casa Tornini, for its delicious cakes, sandwiches and real espressos on wooden tables inside and a couple more on the sidewalk.
Doña TrinySEAFOOD$$
(Terminal Pesquero; mains CH$7000-10,000; h9am-8pm)
One of a half-dozen casual seafood stalls in the lively fish market, this is the go-to spot for fresh catch of the day. Grab a table near the end for the best views.
Nuevo MiramarSEAFOOD$$
(%52-231-5381; Gana 090; mains CH$7800-12,350; hnoon-4pm & 7:30-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun)
A somewhat-upscale restaurant on the seafront, with lots of windows offering beach and harbor views, dependable seafood mainstays and a decent wine list.
8Information
The tourist kiosk (%52-231-6076; Plaza Condell; h9am-9pm summer, 9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat rest of year), on the north side of the plaza, has limited info in Spanish only, although staff are friendly.
8Getting There & Around
Private taxis to Aeropuerto Desierto de Atacama, 25km to the south, cost CH$12,000.
The Pullman (%52-231-5227; cnr Gallo & Vallejos) terminal is one block east of the plaza. Tur Bus has an office (Gana 241; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-8:30pm Sat) where you can buy tickets near the plaza, but buses depart from Plaza Las Americas (cnr Ossa Varas & Cifuentes), about five blocks southeast of Caldera’s central plaza. Buses run to Copiapó (CH$2500, one hour), Antofagasta (CH$13,200 to CH$24,000, six hours) and Santiago (from CH$28,000, 12 hours).
Taxi colectivos between Caldera and Bahía Inglesa charge CH$1000. It’s also an easy 6km bike ride, with bikes available from Qapaq Raymi.
Bahía Inglesa
%052 / POP 280
A short distance south of Caldera is the sweet little seaside resort of Bahía Inglesa. With rocky outcrops scudding out of the crystal waters, this is the place to come for a spot of beachside fun. It has become one of the north’s most popular vacation spots, with a trendy vibe and a long white-sand beach. Most tourist businesses are on or around the beachfront Av El Morro, including the Domo Bahia Inglesa hotel, at the south end, which many locals use as a point of reference
Bahía Inglesa takes its name from the British pirates who took refuge here in the 17th century; there are legends of their treasure still being hidden somewhere in these parts.
TTours
Geo Turismo AtacamaTOURS
(%cell 9-5647-1513; www.geoturismoatacama.com; Av El Morro 840; tours CH$15,000-30,000)
Next to Domo Bahía Inglesa hotel. Arranges excursions and day trips to nearby beaches such as Playa La Virgen, as well as to Pan de Azúcar and the San José mine near Copiapó. On clear nights, you can also join in for astronomy tours.
Bahía MakoDIVING
(%cell 9-5358-0487; www.facebook.com/bahia.mako; Av El Morro; diving/snorkeling trip with gear CH$45,000/25,000; h10am-6pm Dec-Feb, to 5pm Mar-Nov)
Offers diving and snorkeling trips around the bay as well as scuba classes. Experienced divers should ask about wreck dives.
WORTH A TRIP
A SLICE OF PARADISE
Until just a couple of years ago, stunning Playa La Virgen (%cell 9-5858-9728; www.playalavirgen.cl; h8am-9:30pm), 46km south of Bahía Inglesa along a lovely coastal road, was a well-guarded treasure of just a few in-the-know Chileans. While the secret is now out, it’s worth a day trip or a couple of days’ stay at this little sliver of sandy paradise. In January the parasol-dotted beach gets packed with a young party crowd; in February it’s families who move in.
You can head there with one of the tour agencies in Caldera or Bahía Inglesa or arrange your own minivan transportation. If you have your own wheels, note that the road is rough (but doable with a regular car) and that it costs CH$5000 to park by the reception, unless you’re renting one of the cabins. To avoid the fee, park at the top and walk downhill for 10 minutes to the crescent-shaped beach.
For accommodations, two-person cabins start at CH$80,000 in high season; it’s CH$110,000 for a cabaña with a kitchen. A campsite (no electricity) for six people costs CH$75,000 (CH$10,000 per person in low season). The pricey restaurant (mains from CH$10,000), open January and February only, has sandy floors, a thatched roof, straw chairs and a terrace with ocean views.
4Sleeping
Cabañas Villa AlegreAPARTMENT$
(%52-231-5074; Valparaiso; apt from CH$40,000)
The town cheapie offers decent little apartments with full kitchen just behind the Bahia de Coral hotel. The location is great. Rooms are a bit worn, but it’s the best bet in town for stretching your budget.
oCoral de BahíaHOTEL$$
(%cell 9-8434-7749; www.coraldebahia.cl; Av El Morro 559; d with/without view CH$90,000/75,000; pW)
At the south end of the beach, Coral de Bahía has 11 lovely rooms upstairs, some with balconies and sweeping ocean views. This hotel gets booked up in summer, so reserve ahead. The beachfront restaurant downstairs has a nice terrace, and dishes up delectable seafood with a twist. Latin, Asian and Mediterranean influences inspire the menu (mains CH$10,000 to CH$16,500).
NautelGUESTHOUSE$$
(%cell 9-7849-9030; www.nautel.cl; Copiapó 549; d/tr/cabins from CH$70,000/85,000/125,000; pW)
Stylish boutiquey guesthouse on a street just up from the Domo hotel. The modern building has eight earth-toned doubles (five with ocean views) and there’s an adorable four-person wooden cabin on the beachfront. The open-air kitchen and living space are a boon if you want to mingle, and there’s direct access to the waterfront.
Hotel Rocas de BahíaHOTEL$$$
(%52-231-6005; www.rocasdebahia.cl; El Morro 888; d from CH$96,200; piWs)
Looming like some massive geometric sandcastle overlooking the bay, the Rocas de Bahía has spacious rooms with balconies and plenty of natural light. About half come with ocean views. On the downside, the whole place with its aquamarine accents and weathered exterior feels a bit dated. The small pool on the 4th floor has stretching vistas.
5Eating
NaturaliaPIZZA$
(Miramar s/n; pizzas CH$5000-7000; h11am-4pm & 7-10pm)
Next door to Punto de Referencia and sharing the same terrace, this simple eatery churns out pizzas, empanadas and freshly squeezed juices.
El PlateaoINTERNATIONAL$$
(Ave El Morro 756; mains CH$8000-11,000; hnoon-9pm)
The best-loved dining spot in town is this laid-back, art-filled dining room right on the main street. The wide-ranging menu features Thai-style seafood soup, Indian tandoori, shrimp lasagna and straight-up grilled fish. The tables on the front terrace are fine spots to kick back with a cocktail in the afternoon.
Punto de ReferenciaFUSION$$
(%9-8298-8242; Miramar 182; mains CH$10,000-16,000; hnoon-10pm)
Chic choice tucked inside a side street just off the waterfront, this place specializes in sushi and sashimi. It also has some beautifully executed cooked dishes, including grilled meats and fresh pastas. It’s a cozy space, with a small terrace in front.
Ostiones VivosSEAFOOD$$
(Av El Morro; 11am-5pm; hsmall plate of scallops CH$3500)
Perched right over the sea, this ramshackle place serves up delectably fresh ostiones (scallops). It’s located at the southern end of the beach. During low season, hours can be hit or miss.
8Information
There is no money exchange or ATM in Bahía Inglesa. The nearest ATM is in Caldera, so stock up before you arrive.
8Getting There & Away
Most transit is out of neighboring Caldera. You can get there by colectivo for CH$1000. In summer colectivos get packed at the end of the day so you may have to wait a while. Minivans charge about CH$12,000 per person to get to Playa La Virgen, with a three- or four-person minimum.
Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar
An abundance of white sandy beaches, sheltered coves and stony headlands line the desert coastline 30km north of Chañaral. Chañaral itself is a cheerless mining and fishing port set among the rugged headlands of the Sierra de las Animas and offers little appeal to the traveler; it’s best used only as the gateway for the park (www.conaf.cl; Ruta C-120; adult/child CH$5000/1500).
It’s the wildlife that brings most international travelers to Pan de Azúcar, which straddles the border between Regiónes II and III. That’s because the cool Humboldt Current supports a variety of marine life. Star of the show is the endangered Humboldt penguin, which nests on an offshore island. Here you’ll also spot slippery marine otters and rowdy sea lions, as well as scores of pelicans and cormorants.
The 437-sq-km park’s altitude ranges from sea level to 900m. There are great coastal campsites, which get busy in summer.
1Sights & Activities
Isla Pan de AzúcarISLAND
(Sugarloaf Island)
The subtriangular-shaped Isla Pan de Azúcar lies a tantalizingly short distance offshore, its base often shrouded by camanchaca (thick fog) at twilight. It is home to about 2000 Humboldt penguins, as well as other birds, otters and sea lions. The island is a restricted area, but local fishers approach the 100-hectare island by boat for up-close-and-personal views.
Launches charge CH$6000 to 12,000 per person (depending on number of passengers, with a 10-person minimum) from Caleta Pan de Azúcar; with a lack of visitors in the low season, it can be difficult to go on a trip, unless you’re willing to hire the entire boat yourself. Round-trips take 1½ hours, and run from 10am to 6pm in summer, and to 4pm in winter. You’ll have to sign up at the bay kiosk and wait for the next tour. Note that it is more difficult to round up enough people during the week; prepare to wait longer or pay more.
TrailsHIKING
There are five trails in the park. The most popular is the 2.5km El Mirador; en route you will see sea cacti, guanaco and chilla fox. Next up is Las Lomitas, an easy 4km trail with minimal slope; look out for the black-hooded sierra finch. You can also walk the 1.5km coastal path that goes from Pan de Azúcar harbor to Playa Piqueros.
4Sleeping & Eating
Camping is available at Playa Piqueros, Playa El Soldado and Caleta Pan de Azúcar. The most basic facilities start at CH$5000 per person. Most people prefer to stay in Caldera, an hour further south.
Pan de Azúcar LodgeCAMPGROUND, CABINS$$
(%cell 9-9444-5416; www.pandeazucarlodge.cl; campsites per person CH$8500, cabins for 1/2/6/8 people CH$35,000/65,000/90,000/120,000)
Ecological Pan de Azúcar Lodge runs the best camp. It has two sites, one on Playa Piqueros and another on El Soldado, both with bathrooms, hot water, solar energy and activities (in summer) like yoga, treks and various workshops. The lodge also has five beach cabins and an outdoor spa.
oClub Social ChañaralCHILEAN$$
(Maipu btwn Los Carrera & Buin; mains CH$7000-12,000; h11am-10pm)
A surprising find in the small town of Chañaral, this exceptional restaurant serves excellent fish (try the pejegallo with capers and beurre blanc) as well as grilled sirloin steaks and budget-friendly lunch specials (around CH$5000). Giancarlo, the friendly English-speaking owner, can fill you in on the local gossip around town.
8Information
One kilometer south of Caleta Pan de Azúcar, Conaf’s Environmental Information Center (Playa Piqueros; h9am-12:30pm & 2-5:30pm Tue-Sun) has exhibits on the park’s flora and fauna, and a cactarium. It also has a brochure in English, with explanations and a trails map.
There is a Conaf checkpoint at Km15 on the southern entrance road from Chañaral, where you pay the CH$5000 fee. Make sure you hold on to your ticket, as you’ll be asked to present it at different trailheads.
8Getting There & Away
Pan de Azúcar is 30km north of Chañaral by a well-maintained paved road. Most people reach it by tour or transfer from Caldera/Bahía Inglesa or Copiapó.
Taxis from Chañaral charge around CH$28,000 to drop you off in the morning and return to pick you up in the afternoon.
If you are driving from the north, there are two minor park entrances off the Panamericana: one at Km1014 (connecting to Route C-112) and another at Km968 (connecting to Route C-110).