Sur Chico
La Araucanía
Temuco
Parque Nacional Conguillío
Curacautín
Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas
Melipeuco
Villarrica
Pucón
Parque Nacional Villarrica
Río Liucura & Río Caburgua Valleys
Parque Nacional Huerquehue
Curarrehue
Los Ríos
Valdivia
The Lakes District
Osorno
Parque Nacional Puyehue
Frutillar
Puerto Varas
Ensenada
Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales
Cochamó
Río Cochamó Valley
Río Puelo
Puelo Valley
Puerto Montt
Sur Chico
Why Go?
Hence begins the Chilean south. The regions of La Araucanía, Los Ríos and the Lakes District jar travelers with menacing ice-topped volcanoes, glacial lakes overflowing with what looks like melted jade, roaring rivers running through forests and coastal enclaves inhabited by the indomitable Mapuche people. Sur Chico is home to eight spectacular national parks, many harboring exquisitely conical volcanoes, and is a magnet for outdoor-adventure enthusiasts and thrill seekers.
Peppered about sprawling workhorse travel hubs, you’ll find well-developed lakeside hamlets, most notably Pucón and Puerto Varas, dripping in charm and draped by stunning national parks and nature reserves, each one like an Ansel Adams photograph leaping from the frame. But the region – call it Patagonia Lite – isn’t all so perfectly packaged. Off-the-beaten path destinations like the Río Cochamó Valley and Caleta Cóndor reward the intrepid spectacularly, their isolation fodder for that ever-elusive travel nirvana.
When to Go
- Jan–Feb Summer in this weathered region brings less rain, but you’ll still need a raincoat.
- Nov–Mar Navimag ferry high season: spectacular Patagonian sunsets and glaciers.
- Jan One of the most crowded months for visiting Volcán Villarrica but also the sunniest skies.
Sur Chico Highlights
1 Caleta Cóndor Visiting one of the most beautiful places in the world that you’ve probably never heard of.
2 Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas Trekking the otherworldly landscapes of one of La Araucanía’s volcanically altered national parks.
3 Pucón Pushing your adrenaline limits daily in Sur Chico’s high-adventure capital.
4 Puerto Varas Ogling cinematic and volcano-flanked Lago Llanquihue from this outdoorsy lakeside German settlement.
5 Volcán Villarrica Hiking up to the fuming crater of an active volcano.
6 Parque Nacional Conguillío Driving straight through the heart of this volcanic wonderland.
7 Termas Geométricas Burning a day at these romantic and spectacular hot springs.
8 Huilo-Huilo Biological Reserve Sleeping in a fairy-tale hotel inside a gorgeous nature preserve.
History
As the Spanish conquistadores pushed their way south from present-day Santiago, they were motivated by stories of precious metals and the possibility of a large, docile indigenous workforce. The land of La Araucanía and the Lakes District would be the ideal territory to continue the imperial dream. Or maybe not. The Mapuche waged one of the fiercest and most successful defenses against the European invaders anywhere in the Americas, and the Spanish were not able to settle south of the Río Biobío until the mid- to late 19th century.
Germans were recruited to settle the Lakes District, leaving their mark on architecture, food, manufacturing and dairy farming. Today millions of national and international tourists, plus wealthy Santiaguinos looking for country homes, are doing more than any-body to continue to tame and colonize the once-wild lands. Real-estate prices are skyrocketing and the several hundred thousand remaining Mapuche are being pushed further and further into the countryside. Tourism, logging and salmon farming – despite a near collapse in the late 2000s – are driving the future of the region.
La Araucanía
Temuco
%045 / POP 262,530
With its leafy, palm-filled plaza, its pleasant Mercado Municipal and its intrinsic link to Mapuche culture, Temuco is the most palatable of Sur Chico’s blue-collar cities to visit. The city is the former home of Pablo Neruda, one of most influential poets of the 20th century, who once called it the Wild West. Although it’s not a high-value destination in and of itself, most folks do spend some time here if for no other reason than transport logistics.
1Sights
Monumento Natural Cerro ÑielolHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.conaf.cl/parques/monumento-natural-cerro-nielol; Calle Prat; adult/child Chilean CH$1000/free, foreigner CH$2000/1000; 
h8am-7pm)
Cerro Ñielol is a hill that sits among some 90 hectares of native forest – a little forested oasis in the city. Chile’s national flower, the copihue (Lapageria rosea), grows here in abundance, flowering from March to July. Cerro Ñielol is also of historical importance, since it was here in 1881, at the tree-shaded site known as La Patagua, that Mapuche leaders ceded land to the colonists to found Temuco.
Museo Regional de La AraucaníaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museoregionalaraucania.cl; Av Alemania 084; h9:30am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) 
F
Housed in a handsome frontier-style building dating from 1924, this small but excellent regional museum is one of Sur Chico’s best. There are permanent exhibits recounting the history of the Araucanian peoples before, during and since the Spanish invasion in its newly renovated basement collection, including an impressive Mapuche dugout canoe.
4Sleeping
Adela y HelmutGUESTHOUSE$
(%cell 9-8258-2230; www.adelayhelmut.cl; Faja 16,000, Km5 N, Cunco; incl breakfast dm CH$15,000, r CH$30,000-56,000; 
p
W)
If a gritty, working-class city isn’t your thing, but you’re stuck in the area, make your way out to this backpacker favorite on a small farm, 48km out of town on the road to Parque Nacional Conguillío. Solar-heated water, small kitchens in every room and outstanding views to still-smoldering Volcán Llaima are highlights.
Don’t miss the Swabian treats from the kitchen (such as Hefezopf sweetbread). The guesthouse also offers 4WD tours and unguided horseback riding.
Hospedaje KlickmannGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-274-8297; www.hospedajeklickmann.cl; Claro Solar 647; r per person with/without bathroom CH$20,800/16,800; p
iW)
This clean and friendly family-run hospedaje boasts new, modern bathrooms and is barely a hiccup from several bus companies.
Hostal Callejón MassmannGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %045-248-5955; www.hostalcm.cl; Callejón Massmann 350; r from CH$47,300; pW)
Single travelers get shafted on room prices, but it’s otherwise hard to find fault with this new midrange choice in a lovely home that evokes the architecture of the countryside. The 10 rooms feature stylish furnishings and duvets and there’s a lovely backyard patio, all with the advantage of being within walking distance of the best restaurants and nightlife.
5Eating & Drinking
oTradiciones ZunyCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Tucapel 1374; meals CH$5000; h12:30-5pm Mon-Sat)
Temuco’s best-kept secret is an underground locals’ haunt specializing in the fresh, simple food of the countryside served out of an indigenous-themed home. It’s hard to find (look for the colorful duck/basketball mural) but the cheap, Chilean-Mapuche organic fusion cuisine is a showstopper. You’re welcome.
Feria PintoMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Barros Arana; meals CH$2000-3000; h7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun)
Feria Pinto is a colorful Mapuche produce-and-food market taking up several blocks along Barros Arana. Along the streets more practical wares are sold, while in the Feria itself vendors hawk everything from apples and artisan cheeses to honey and bags of merkén (Mapuche spice-smoked chile).
There is a lane of cocinerías (greasy spoons) as well – plop yourself down at a counter and tuck into cazuelas, sopapaillas with cheese, pailas of eggs and other homespun goodness. And don’t miss Don Rigo’s chili sauce!
La PampaSTEAK$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.lapampa.cl; Av San Martín 0137; steaks CH$11,500-16,900; hnoon-4pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; W)
The best beef in the region is further south, but this high-style, two-story steakhouse is the Temuco hot spot for carnivores.
Gohan SushiJAPANESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-274-1110; www.gohan.cl; España 390; sushi rolls CH$3490-6950; h12:50pm-midnight Mon-Sat; W)
This innovative and trendy sushi spot gets the job done with an extensive list of funky rolls and shrimp dishes, hip staff and loungy tunes. You can even get your rolls acevichado – drenched in ceviche – an abomination we can get behind! There’s a second branch (%45-248-7656; Vicuña MacKenna 531; rolls CH$3490-6950; h12:30-11:30pm Mon-Sat; W) too.
oLagerhausCRAFT BEER
(MAP; www.facebook.com/lagerhaustemuco; Trizano 420; pints CH$3100-4400; h4pm-2am Mon-Fri, 5pm-2am Sat; W)
Temuco’s top spot for locally crafted cerveza artesanal is this 15-tap hops hideaway tucked into the corner of the Paseo Los Suizos strip mall. Inside, it’s stuffed full of cozy upholstered banquettes; outside, a sunny terrace. Either way, fiercely local brews like Klein, Birrell and Black Mud flow from the taps along with selected invitees from Valdivia and Catripulli (Alásse).
7Shopping
Centro Mercado ModeloMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Aldunate 365; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Temuco’s Mercado Municipal was gutted by fire in 2016 and is not expected to be rebuilt until 2019. In the meantime, many artisans have moved across the street to this temporary tented market.
8Information
Keep an eye out for pickpockets in el centro, especially in Feria Pinto. Snatch-and-grab thievery has also been reported on the Cerro Ñielol hike.
ATMs and exchange houses are plentiful all around Plaza de Armas Aníbal Pinto.
Banco de Chile (www.bancochile.cl; Plaza de Armas Aníbal Pinto) ATM.
BBVA (www.bbva.cl; cnr Claro Solar & Vicuña MacKenna) ATM.
CorreosChile (www.correos.cl; cnr Diego Portales & Prat; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Conaf (%045-229-8149; www.conaf.cl; Bilbao 931, Pasillo D; h8:45am-2pm Mon-Fri) Mainly administrative offices, but has maps of the regional parks at the information booth.
Sernatur (%45-240-6214; www.sernatur.cl; cnr Bulnes & Claro Solar; h9am-2pm & 3-6pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm & 3-5pm Fri) Well-stocked national tourist info.
Tourist Information Kiosk (%cell 9-6238-0660; www.temuco.cl; Plaza de Armas; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat, shorter hr winter) Free city tours leave from this kiosk on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday at 9:45am; reservations recommended (ofiturplaza@gmail.com).
Tourist Information Kiosk (%45-297-3628; www.temuco.cl; Centro Mercado Modelo; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun, shorter hr winter)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Temuco’s shiny and modern Aeropuerto de La Araucanía (%45-220-1900; www.aeropuertoaraucania.cl; Longitudinal Sur, Km692, Freire) is located near Freire, 20km south of the city. LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Bulnes 687; h9am-1:30pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat), Sky Airline (www.skyairline.com), JetSmart (www.jetsmart.com) and Latin American Wings (www.vuelalaw.com) service the airport from Santiago.
BUS
Temuco is a major transport hub. Long-haul bus services run from the Terminal Rodoviario (%45-222-5005; Pérez Rosales 01609), located at the northern approach to town. Closer to the centro, the Terminal de Buses Rurales (%45-221-0494; Av Pinto 32) serves local and regional destinations. Companies have ticket offices around downtown.
Bus companies serving main cities located along the Panamericana include TurBus (%45-268-6604; www.turbus.cl; Claro Solar 625; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) and Buses ETM (%45-225-7904; www.etm.cl; Claro Solar 647; h10am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 3-6:30pm Sat), both of which offer frequent services to Santiago. TurBus also services Valparaíso/Viña del Mar. Cruz del Sur (%45-273-0310; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; Claro Solar 599; h9am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat), which is also set up at Manuel Montt 290 (%45-273-0315; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; Manuel Montt 290, Local 7; h9am-1pm & 3-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-1:30pm & 2-4:30pm Sat), serves the island of Chiloé.
For Parque Nacional Conguillío’s three entrances, Nar-Bus (%45-240-7740; www.igillaima.cl; Balmaceda 995) leaves from its own terminal to Melipeuco. From the Terminal de Buses Rurales, Vogabus runs to Cherquenco, from where it’s a 17km walk or hitchhike to the ski lodge at Los Paraguas; and Buses Curacautín Express (%45-225-8125; Av Pinto 32, Terminal de Buses Rurales) heads off for Curacautín. Buses JAC (%45-299-3117; www.jac.cl; cnr Av Balmaceda & Aldunate), with its own terminal, offers the most frequent service to Villarrica and Pucón, plus services to Santiago, Lican Ray and Coñaripe. Buses Bio Bio (%45-265-7876; www.busesbiobio.cl; Lautaro 854) operates services to Los Angeles and Concepción, as well as Chillán and Lonquimay.
For Argentina, Igi Llaima/Nar-Bus heads to San Martín de Los Andes and Neuquén daily, and Via Bariloche (%45-225-7904; www.viabariloche.com.ar; Claro Solar 647; h10am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 3-6:30pm Sat) heads to Neuquén. Andesmar (%45-238-9231; www.andesmar.com; Pérez Rosales 01609, Terminal Rodoviario) offers the only departure for Bariloche from Temuco, otherwise you’ll need to get to Osorno.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Bariloche (Ar) | 28,000 | 8 |
| Castro (Chiloé) | 12,000 | 9 |
| Cherquenco (for Los Paraguas) | 1400 | 1½ |
| Chillán | 8500 | 4 |
| Coñaripe | 3000 | 2 |
| Concepción | 8500 | 4½ |
| Curacautín | 1500 | 2 |
| Lican Ray | 3800 | 1¾ |
| Lonquimay | 4300 | 3 |
| Los Angeles | 4900 | 3 |
| Melipeuco | 1900 | 2 |
| Neuquén (Ar) | 19,000 | 9 |
| Osorno | 5500 | 4 |
| Pucón | 2900 | 2 |
| Puerto Montt | 6500 | 5 |
| San Martín de Los Andes (Ar) | 14,000 | 6 |
| Santiago | 12,000 | 9 |
| Valdivia | 4000 | 3 |
| Valparaíso/Viña del Mar | 19,000 | 10 |
| Villarrica | 2000 | 1½ |
8Getting Around
The most economical airport option is Transfer Temuco (%45-233-4033; www.transfertemuco.cl; one-way CH$5000), a reliable door-to-door shuttle service (CH$5000). An Uber runs CH$10,000 to CH$13,000 to the airport (30 to 45 minutes) and CH$2300 to CH$2900 to the bus terminal (15 minutes). Colectivo 11 and 111 Express go from downtown (Claro Solar) to the bus terminal (CH$500 to CH$600). Micro 7 heads to the terminal as well, from Diego Portales (CH$450).
Europcar (www.europcar.cl) and Avis (www.avis.cl), among others, rent out of the airport.
Parque Nacional Conguillío
Llaima means ‘Blood Veins’ in Mapudungun and that’s exactly what tourists who were visiting Parque Nacional Conguillío (www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-conguillio; adult/child Chilean CH$4000/2000, foreigner CH$6000/3000), and its towering Volcán Llaima (3125m), saw on New Year’s Day 2008. The centerpiece of this Unesco Biosphere Reserve (and the Geoparque Kütralcura within) is one of Chile’s most active volcanoes. Since 1640 Llaima has experienced 35 violent eruptions. The Mapuche believe this impressive flamethrower is a living spirit, who is rather enthusiastically coughing up the earth’s imbalances as punishment. Despite the fire spitting, this wonderful park – which was created in 1950 primarily to preserve the araucaria and 608 sq km of alpine lakes, deep canyons and native forests – is open. The gray-brown magma that has accumulated over the years is to blame for the dramatic vistas and eerie lunarscape atmosphere – at its most dramatic, perhaps, in late April when the leaves are in full autumn bloom.
2Activities
The 2008 Volcán Llaima eruption coughed up lava to the southeast into Sector Cherquenco, sparing all of the park’s designated trails. One of Chile’s finest short hikes, the Sierra Nevada trail (7km, three hours one way) to the base of the Sierra Nevada, leaves from the small parking lot at Playa Linda, at the east end of Laguna Conguillío. Climbing steadily northeast through dense coigüe forests, the trail passes a pair of lake overlooks; from the second and more scenic overlook, you can see solid stands of araucarias beginning to supplant coigües on the ridge top.
Conaf discourages all but the most experienced hikers from going north on the Travesía Río Blanco (5km, five hours one way); a guide is essential.
Near the visitors center, the Sendero Araucarias (0.8km, 45 minutes) meanders through a verdant rainforest. At Laguna Verde, a short trail goes to La Ensenada, a peaceful beach area. The Cañadón Truful-Truful trail (0.8km, 30 minutes) passes through the canyon, where the colorful strata, exposed by the rushing waters of Río Truful-Truful, are a record of Llaima’s numerous eruptions. The nearby Los Vertientes trail (0.8km, 30 minutes) leads to an opening among rushing springs.
Centro de Ski Las Araucarias (%45-227-4141; www.skiaraucarias.cl; half-/full-day lift tickets CH$22,000/27,000) offers skiing on Volcán Llaima.
4Sleeping
Sendas ConguillíoCAMPING, CABAñAS$
(%2-2840-6852; www.sendasconguillio.cl; camping per site from CH$26,000, cabañas CH$96,000-155,000)
Running the camping areas inside Conguillío on concession from Conaf, Sendas Conguillío offers five campgrounds with hot water (three at Sector Curacautín and two at Sector La Caseta) totaling 98 sites, including a special camping sector set aside for backpackers (campsites CH$7500). There are more comfortable cabins as well.
At the Sector Curacautín reception, you can also rent kayaks for use on Lago Conguillío (per hour CH$6000).
oLa BaitaLODGE$$
(%45-258-1073; www.labaitaconguillio.cl; Región de la Araucanía, Km18, Camino a Laguna Verde; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$65,000/90,000/95,000, cabañas 5/9 people from CH$60,000/115,000; 
n) 
S
Spaced amid pristine forest, this is an ecotourism project just outside the park’s southern boundary. It’s home to eight attractive cabins with slow-burning furnaces, solar- and turbine-powered electricity and hot water. There’s also an extremely cozy, incense-scented lodge and restaurant with six rooms complete with granite showers and design-forward sinks; and a pleasant massage room, outdoor hot tub and sauna.
It’s owned by hippie-esque former singer Isabel Correa, who entertains guests over wine and yoga when she is not in Santiago. Mountain bikes, kayaks and trekking are all at the ready. La Baita is located 16km from Melipeuco and 60km from Curacautín.
8Information
It is obligatory to stop at CONAF’s control post (www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-conguillio; R-925-S; h8:30am-6:30pm), 6km before Laguna Captrén, to register your entrance to the park as well as pay the entrance fee.
Centro de Informaciónes Ambientales Santiago Gómez Luna (www.conaf.cl; Laguna Conguillío; h8:30am-9:30pm Dec 16-Mar, 8:30am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Apr-Dec 15)
8Getting There & Away
You can access Parque Nacional Conguillío from three directions. The first, and shortest (80km), is directly east of Temuco via Vilcún and Cherquenco; this accesses the ski resorts at Sector Los Paraguas, but doesn’t access (by road) the campgrounds, main visitor center and trailheads. All of those are best reached by taking the more northern route from Temuco via Curacautín (120km). The park’s southern entrance, also 120km from Temuco, is accessed via Melipeuco. From here a road heads north through the park to the northern entrance, also accessing the trailheads and campgrounds. It’s passable heading south by most normal cars in high season (after Conaf grates the road); other times of year and heading the opposite direction, where there are many more gravely inclines, things can get real dicey between Laguna Captrén and Laguna Conguillío.
To reach Sector Los Paraguas, Vogabus, at Temuco’s Terminal de Buses Rurales, runs six times daily to Cherquenco (CH$1400, 1½ hours, 1:30pm to 8:30pm), from where it’s a 17km walk or hitchhike to the ski lodge at Los Paraguas.
For the northern entrance at Laguna Captrén, Buses Curacautín Express (%45-225-8125; Av Manuel Rodríguez, Terminal Curacautín) has three departures from Curacautín on Mondays and Wednesday (6am, 9am and 6pm), two on Tuesdays and Thursdays (6am and 6pm) and four on Fridays (6am, 9am, 2pm and 6pm). There are no buses on Saturday or Sunday. The bus goes as far as mile 26.5 on the Ruta Curacautín–Parque Nacional Conguillío (where R-925-S and S-297-R intersect), 4.8km before the Guardería Captrén at the park’s entrance. In winter the bus will go as far as conditions allow. Other options from Curacautín include a taxi (CH$30,000, one hour), lugging a bike on the bus, or a day tour from Epu Pewen for CH$55,000 per person all-in.
For the southern entrance at Truful-Truful, Nar-Bus in Temuco runs eight times per day Monday to Saturday (CH$1900, two hours, 8am to 6:30pm) and five times on Sunday (9am to 6:30pm)
Curacautín
%045 / POP 16,508
Curacautín is the northern gateway to Parque Nacional Conguillío. There are more services here than in Melipeuco and a pleasant step-up in traveler accommodations has leveled the playing field a bit, though you’ll still be happier if you base yourself along the road to Lonquimay, a more central location for the area’s three parks.
The excellent Hostal Epu Pewen (%45-288-1793; www.epupewen.cl; Manuel Rodríguez 705; dm from CH$8000, d/tr without bathroom CH$24,000/34,000, d/tr incl breakfast CH$33,000/44,000; piW) S is clean and comfortable and features all sorts of indigenous touches, like bathroom and wall tiles patterned with kultrün (ceremonial drums), and nonconventional design elements (rauli-wood sink stands). There’s an in-house agency that organizes sustainable park treks, rafting and visits to Geoparque Kütralcura. English and French spoken.
8Information
Información Turística (%45-288-2102; www.destinocuracautin.cl; Manuel Rodríguez s/n; h8:30am-9pm Jan-Feb, shorter hr winter) Has brochures and information on the park and accommodations in town.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (Av Manuel Rodríguez) is directly on the highway to Lonquimay. Buses Bio Bio (%45-288-1123; www.busesbiobio.cl; Av Manuel Rodríguez, Terminal Curacautín) heads to Temuco (CH$3700, 1½ hours) via Lautaro (CH$1500, one hour), the quickest route, daily at 7:55am and 1:45pm Monday to Friday. Buses Curacautín Express goes to Temuco (CH$1500) via Lautaro (CH$1000, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes, 5:45am to 8:30pm). TurBus (%45-268-6629; www.turbus.cl; Serrano 101), which also has a ticket office at the bus station, has two direct buses per day to Santiago (from CH$14,300, 8:50pm and 9:15pm) leaving from its office on Serrano.
For accommodations on the road to Lonquimay, Buses Flota Erbuc (%cell 9-5781-1371; Av Manuel Rodríguez, Terminal Curacautín) goes to Malalcahuello six times daily and can drop you anywhere along the route (CH$800, 10am to 8:15pm).
Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas
Just north of the pretty hamlet of Malalcahuello (en route to Lonquimay) is a combined reserve (www.conaf.cl/parques/reserva-nacional-malalcahuello; adult/child Chilean CH$1500/1000, foreigner CH$2000/1500) of 303 sq km, which extends almost to the border of Parque Nacional Tolhuaca. Though off the main park circuit, Malalcahuello-Nalcas offers one of the most dramatic landscapes in all of Sur Chico, a charcoal desertscape of ash and sand that looks like the Sahara with a nicotine addiction. Its main event, Cráter Navidad – formed by the last eruption of Volcán Lonquimay (on Christmas Day 1988, hence the name!) – helps shape this otherworldly atmosphere. It’s not unlike Mars with its desolate red hues reflecting off the spoils of magma and ash. The whole thing sits against a magnificent backdrop of Lonquimay, Volcán Tolhuaca and Volcán Callaqui off in the distance. Be sure to charge up your camera batteries before coming here.
2Activities
Sled ChileSNOW SPORTS
(%cell 9-9541-3348; www.sledchile.com; Volcán Lonquimay, Km6.5)
This upstart adventure specialist offers customized, high-adrenaline backcountry tours by snowmobiles and/or splitboards.
Cañón del BlancoHOT SPRINGS
(%cell 9-7668-4925; www.canondelblanco.cl; shared/private access CH$12,000/60,000; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)
Located 16km down the same gravel road as Andenrose is this new hot springs, with well-done pools in a gorgeous forest setting.
Corralco Mountain & Ski ResortSNOW SPORTS
(%02-2206-0741; www.corralco.com; Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas; half-/full-day lift tickets CH$29,500/37,500)
There’s better skiing here than in Conguillío, with numerous runs, prettier scenery and new infrastructure which includes Valle Corralco Hotel & Spa (d full board from CH$232,800; pW), the best of Sur Chico’s ski-resort lodges. Gear rentals run CH$27,000 for adults and CH$18,000 for kids.
To get here, the turnoff is 2km east of Malalcahuello on the road to Lonquimay.
4Sleeping
AndenroseLODGE$$
(%cell 9-9869-1700; www.andenrose.com; Camino Internacional, Km68.5; s/d incl breakfast from CH$48,000/53,000, apt & cabañas from CH$59,000; pnW
s)
The Bavarian-styled Andenrose along the Río Cautín is built from organic wood and is full of exposed brick and southern German hospitality (Hans, the enthusiastic owner, is quite the firecracker). Recent renovations have left a new pool, four rooms, three fully equipped apartments and two cabañas, the latter set spectacularly among a field of lavender and daisies.
SuizAndina LodgeLODGE$$
(%45-197-3725; www.suizandina.com; Camino Internacional, Km83; campsites per person CH$10,000, dm CH$20,000, s/d/tr from CH$39,000/66,000/76,000; pW)
The heavily German-staffed Suizandina is run by a hospitable Swiss-Chilean couple. Cleanliness is next to godliness in the roomy lodgings (fantastic bathrooms) and it’s well stocked with wine and miniküchens (sweet German-style cakes). The menu goes all out with excellent Swiss specialties like rösti (hash browns), fondue and raclette (a type of cheese that is melted and poured over potatoes).
There’s an emphasis on massages and horseback riding as the owner is a physiotherapist horse lover. A good source for backcountry skiing as well.
oÑamku LodgeLODGE$$$
(%cell 9-6675-5738; www.namkulodge.com; Ruta 89, Km1, Malalcahuello; r incl breakfast US$350-486, 3-bdrm houses from US$550; pW) S
Chilean-raised, half-American free spirit Annette and her supercat Guiña are your hosts at this remarkable three-room lodge, a nature-centric gem absolutely embedded in local craftmanship – petrified-volcano-ash sinks, reclaimed-araucaria staircases and tables, indigenous-textile seat cushions, roble- and coihue-wood shelving and bannisters – that sets the tone for a sustainable journey through local Mapuche and Pewenche cultures.
There are rattan hanging nests for reading, a native bamboo breakfast quincho for morning sustenance and solar-lit trails around the secluded property. Nature and culture tours, a private chef (often foraged ingredients used!) and sommelier are at the ready. One of the three separate cabañas sits right on the Río Cautín, which roars through the forested 4-hectare property. You ain’t going to leave here for a very long time.
5Eating & Drinking
La EsferaRESTAURANT$$
(www.vorticechile.com; Camino Internacional, Km69.5, Vórtice Eco-Lodge; menú CH$13,000; h9am-9:30pm, bar to 10:30pm; W)
It’s worth popping into the atmospheric wooden domo at this outdoor-adventure complex for the Andino-Mapuche fusion cuisine of Ariel Ñamcupil, a Pewenche chef doing surprisingly great-value gourmet grub. Ñamcupil and his team forage for many of their own indigenous ingredients and specialties, include traditionally smoked meats and fish and unusual desserts like beet or hazelnut/rosa mosqueta ice cream.
El RandonnésBAR
(Ejército 600, Malalcahuello; h1-10pm, closed Mon Nov-Dec & Apr-May; W)
Steeped in skiing and mountain-bike sports (friendly owner Andrés makes custom-built splitboards), this popular après-ski restobar is a haven for cervezas artesanales, with Temuco’s Klein on tap (pale ale, porter and amber) as well as even more local Cerveza Lonquimay and Malalcahuello’s own Tikian in bottles. It’s all goes down nicely with the excellent eggplant escabeche served at the table.
7Shopping
oEmporio ÑamkuARTS & CRAFTS, HOMEWARES
(www.namkulodge.com; Ruta 89, Km1; h11am-9pm, closed Mon & Tue Oct-Dec & Mar-May) S
You’ll want one of everything at this excellent locally steeped handicraft shop, including picoyo and araucaria woodwork (cutting boards, serving platters), Mapuche and Pewenche textiles, throws and wool ponchos and – if you can figure out a way to get it home – a traditional iron olleta cooking pot! All local, sustainably sourced and meticulously curated by Annette Bottinelli, owner of Ñamku Lodge.
8Information
The Cámara de Turismo (www.malalcahuello.org) has an excellent web site.
Conaf (www.conaf.cl; Camino Internacional, Km82, Malalcahuello; h8:30am-1pm & 2-6pm)
Guardaparques (www.conaf.cl; R-785; h8:30-1pm & 2-6pm)
8Getting There & Away
Heading east of Malalcahuello, the road passes through the narrow, one-way 4527m Túnel Las Raíces, a converted railway tunnel from 1930 that emerges into the drainage of the upper Biobío and has sealed its place in history as the longest tunnel in South America. The road eventually reaches 1884m Paso Pino Hachado, a border crossing that leads to the Argentine cities of Zapala and Neuquén.
Buses Flota Erbuc goes to Malalcahuello six times daily and can drop you anywhere along the route (CH$800, 10am to 8:15pm). From there, numerous lodges and tour agencies offer day tours to the park (CH$75,000 to CH$90,000).
Melipeuco
%045 / POP 5590
Melipeuco, the southern gateway to Parque Nacional Conguillío, is 90km east of Temuco via Cunco. If you’re looking to base yourself nearer the park than Temuco, this is a good spot for day trips, though you’re better off going all the way into the park to truly absorb the otherworldly atmosphere of Conguillío.
Turismo Remulcura (%cell 9-9424-2454; www.relmucura.cl; Camino Internacional Icalma, Km1; campsites per person CH$4000, r per person incl breakfast CH$15,000; pW), a Mapuche farmstead on the east end of Melipeuco, offers simple but comfortable rooms with modern shower capsules, but the real coup is the 2nd-floor bay windows with framed, Ansel Adams–esque views of Volcán Llaima. The family can set you up with rafting, trekking and canyoning from their agency in town.
8Information
Tourist Office (%45-258-1075; www.melipeuko.cl; Pedro Aguirre Cerda s/n; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) Friendly tourist information inside the new Parador Turístico Melipeuco.
8Getting There & Away
From its Temuco station, Nar-Bus has eight buses per day to Melipueco from Monday to Saturday (CH$1900, two hours, 8am to 6:30pm) and five on Sunday (9am to 6:30pm). Heading back to Temuco, buses ply the main road more or less hourly between 7am and 8pm.
Villarrica
%045 / POP 49,184
Unlike Pucón, its wild neighbor across windswept Lago Villarrica, Villarrica is a real living and breathing Chilean town. While not as charming, it’s more down-to-earth than Pucón, lacks the bedlam associated with package-tour caravans, and has more reasonable prices and a faded-resort glory that attracts travelers of a certain lax disposition.
The newish costanera (lakeshore boardwalk), a post-2010 Concepción earthquake project, is impressive and they have done a fine job with the new artificial black-sand beach, Chile’s first (the city’s main street, Aviador Acevedo, also received a 2017 makeover). Considering you can book all the same activities here as in Pucón, it makes for an agreeable alternative for those seeking less in-your-face tourism and a more culturally appropriate experience.
1Sights & Activities
Museo Histórico Arqueológico MunicipalMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Pedro de Valdivia 1050; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri) F
Mapuche artifacts (including jewelry, musical instruments and rough-hewn wooden masks) are the focus of this small museum behind the tourist office.
oAurora Austral Patagonia HuskyDOG SLEDDING
(%cell 9-8901-4518; www.auroraaustral.com; Camino Villarrica–Panguipulli, Km19.5)
Located about 19km from Villarrica on the road to Lican Ray is this German-run husky farm, where you’ll find around 55 of the cutest Siberian and Alaskan huskies you ever did see, ready to take you on the ride of your life. In winter there are day trips (CH$80,000), multiday tent-/cabin-based trips and a seriously epic seven-day Andean crossing (all-inclusive CH$2,400,000).
In summer there are 6km rides with an optional barbecue (CH$33,000 to CH$39,000) and husky trekking on Volcán Villarrica (CH$48,000). True dog lovers can sleep out here as well in four extremely nice cabins (CH$40,000 to CH$70,000).
Four- to 12-week volunteers are also accepted here.
zFestivals & Events
Muestra Cultural MapucheCULTURAL
(hJan)
Features local artisans, indigenous music and ritual dance.
4Sleeping
La Torre SuizaHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-241-1213; www.torresuiza.com; Bilbao 969; dm CH$11,000, s/d from CH$20,000/25,000; pW)
Once Villarrica’s mainstay hostel, this wooden chalet has evolved over the years. Once a traveler utopia with Swiss bike-enthusiast owners, it’s now a Chilean-owned guesthouse that can often fill with visiting work teams. But the old-school crunchiness of the place has its charms – creaky old floors, simple rooms – and the friendly owners are doing their best to to cultivate traveler camaraderie.
Hostal Don JuanINN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-241-1833; www.hostaldonjuan.cl; General Körner 770; s/d CH$34,000/44,000, without bathroom CH$25,000/34,000; pW)
Don Juan Hostal wins travelers over around a large parilla (outdoor grill), which was designed by the friendly owner, and offers fabulous volcano views from some rooms on the 2nd floor. Rooms are basic but homey – and service is friendly. Breakfast runs CH$3500 extra.
Hostería de la ColinaINN$$
(%45-241-1503; www.hosteriadelacolina.com; Las Colinas 115; r from CH$78,000, ste CH$90,000; piW)
This once-smart hostería (inn) is set on meticulously manicured and lush grounds on a hill with stupendous views just southwest of town, but it has lost a bit of its soul since new Chilean hosts took over from nearly 30 years of American hospitality. Well-appointed main-house rooms are classically inclined while two independent suites offer more privacy and contemporary decor.
5Eating & Drinking
oTravellersRESTAURANT$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/travellersrestobar; Letelier 753; mains CH$4950-7950; h9am-2am Mon-Sat; W)
Chinese, Mexican, Thai, Indian, Italian – it’s a passport for your palate at this gay-friendly restobar that is ground zero for foreigners. The food isn’t fantastic, but you won’t be pissed either. A postfire makeover marries a pop-culture potpourri with postcards and beer coasters from amigos the world over and a bright-light NYC skyline motif above the bar.
German and English traveler advice is available, and so are discounted cocktails (stunning raspberry mojitos, commendable micheladas with Kunstmann Torobayo) during the lengthy happy hour (6pm to 10pm).
El SabioPIZZA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.elsabio.cl; Zegers 393; pizzas CH$6700-7600; h1-4pm & 7:30-11:30pm Mon-Sat; W)
A friendly Argentine couple runs the show here, creating fantastic, uncut oblong pizzas served on small cutting boards. Forget everything you thought you knew about pizza in Chile.
Café Bar 2001CHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cafebarvillarrica; Henríquez 379; sandwiches CH$2800-7750; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; W)
Packed from morning to night, this diner-like hot spot dates from 1972 and has been filling hungry Villarricans ever since. There’s pailas (earthenware bowls) of eggs for breakfast, piled-high sandwiches and heartier mains all day and a bit of a social scene at night.
Huerto AzulDESSERTS$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.huertoazul.cl; Henríquez 341; chocolate per 100g CH$2490; h9:30am-9:30pm)
A blindingly blue chain born in Villarrica, this fabulous gourmet store/ice-cream parlor dares you to walk in without stumbling out in a sugar coma. Artisanal marmalade and chutney line the walls; an extensive line of house-made Belgian chocolate bars fill display cases.
BrazasCHILEAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-241-1631; www.brazasvillarrica.cl; General Körner 145; mains CH$5800-16,500; h1-4pm & 7:30-11:30pm; W)
This upscale choice has everything: postcard-framed volcano sunsets right out the bay windows, above-and-beyond service for Sur Chico and, most importantly, the grub to accompany it all. There’s an emphasis on serious steaks, but the rest of the gourmet menu shouldn’t be ignored – especially the caramelized slab of succulent pork ribs, falling off the bone between stolen lake glances; and the stuffed trout.
Delirium TremensCRAFT BEER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cerveceriadtrb; Letelier 898; pints CH$2990; h5:30-4am Tue-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat)
Traverse through doors between an inviting patio and several living-room-like spaces at Villarrica’s one spot for craft beer, a five-tap brewpub that’s serious about local brews. House-brewed Bravía comes in American Amber, Dry Stout and Blonde options while invitees often feature the excellent Alásse from Catripulli.
7Shopping
Mercado FritzHANDICRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/Mercadofritz; Acevedo 612; h8:30am-8pm)
Probably Villarrica’s best market for handicrafts; you’ll find higher-quality woodwork, woolens, jewelry etc as well as Tam Tam (a beautiful ceramics shop) and several purveyors of gourmet regional food items.
Centro Cultural MapucheARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Feria Wenteche Map; cnr Pedro de Valdivia & Zegers; h10am-11pm)
A good spot for Mapuche figures carved from laurel wood and raulí wood bowls, as well as a gastronomic and cultural center.
8Information
Banks with ATMs are plentiful near the corner of Pedro Montt and Av Pedro de Valdivia.
BCI (www.bci.cl; cnr Alderete & Av Pedro de Valdivia) ATM.
Banco de Chile (www.bancochile.cl; cnr Pedro Montt & Av Pedro de Valdivia) ATM.
CorreosChile (www.correos.cl; Anfión Muñoz 315; h9am-1:30pm & 3:30-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat)
Oficina de Turismo (%45-220-6618; www.visitvillarrica.cl; Av Pedro de Valdivia 1070; h8:30am-11pm Jan-Feb, 8:30am to 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 2:30-5:30pm Sat & Sun Mar-Dec) Municipal office that has helpful staff and provides many brochures. A secondary office operates out of Plaza de Armas (%45-241-9819; www.visitvillarrica.cl; Plaza de Armas; h8:30am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri).
Hospital de Villarrica (https://villarrica.araucaniasur.cl; San Martín 460; h24hr)
8Getting There & Away
Villarrica has a main (mostly regional) bus terminal (Av Pedro de Valdivia 621); most long-distance companies have separate offices nearby. Long-distance fares are similar to those from Temuco (an hour away), which has more choices for southbound travel. From the terminal – really just a parking lot – Buses Vipu-Ray (%cell 9-6835-5798) goes to Pucón. Buses Coñaripe (%cell 9-6168-3803; h8am-9pm) departs throughout the day to Lican Ray, Coñaripe and Panguipulli. Buses Villarrica (%45-241-4408) heads to Temuco.
The following services leave from each company’s own terminal. Buses JAC (%45-246-7775; www.jac.cl; Bilbao 610; h6am-9:40pm Mon-Fri, from 6:30am Sat, from 7:30am Sun) goes to Pucón, Temuco, Puerto Montt, Puerto Varas and Valdivia. TurBus/Cóndor (%45-220-4102; www.turbus.cl; Anfión Muñoz 657; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat), Pullman Bus (%45-241-4217; www.pullman.cl; cnr Anfión Muñoz & Bilbao) and Buses JAC offer the most frequent services to Santiago, the first with at least one nightly departure to Viña del Mar/Valparaíso (8:40pm).
For Argentine destinations, Igi Llaima (%45-241-2753; www.igillaima.cl; Av Pedro de Valdivia 621, Terminal Villarrica; h9am-1:30pm & 5:30-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat, noon-9pm Sun), in the main terminal, leaves daily for San Martín de los Andes. Buses San Martín (%045-241-9673; Pedro León Gallo 599; h9am-1:30pm & 4-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) does the same route Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Coñaripe | 2100 | 1 |
| Lican Ray | 1500 | ¾ |
| Panguipulli | 2900 | 1½ |
| Pucón | 900 | ¾ |
| Puerto Montt | 9300 | 5 |
| Puerto Varas | 9000 | 4¾ |
| San Martín de los Andes (Ar) | 13,000 | 5 |
| Santiago | 27,400 | 10 |
| Temuco | 1800 | 1 |
| Valdivia | 4500 | 3 |
| Viña del Mar/Valparaíso | 28,800 | 15 |
Pucón
%045 / POP 22,081
Pucón is firmly positioned on the global map as a center for adventure sports; its setting on beautiful Lago Villarrica under the smoldering eye of the volcano of the same name seals its fate as a world-class destination for adrenaline junkies. Once a summer playground for the rich, Pucón is now a year-round adventure machine catering to all incomes, especially in February (a time to avoid, if possible), when it is absolutely overrun. The town receives alternating floods of package tourists, Santiago holidaymakers, novice Brazilian snowboarders, adventure-seeking backpackers, new-age spiritualists and mellowed-out ex-activists turned eco-pioneers. While its popularity can be off-putting for some, Pucón boasts the best small-town tourism infrastructure south of Costa Rica. That means quality accommodations, efficient tourism agencies, hundreds of activities and excursions, vegetarian restaurants, falafel, microbrews and hundreds of expat residents from the world over.
2Activities
Hot Springs
Popular hot spots to catch a soothing soak in the area include the new-agey and low-key Termas de Panqui, 56km east of Pucón; the once-popular (but fading) Termas Los Pozones, 36km east; the upscale Termas Peumayén, 30km east; and the traditional Termas de Huife, 35km east. Pucón tour operators offer day trips (including transport) to the most popular hot springs for between CH$20,000 and CH$25,000; and a few are reachable on public transportation.
Mountain Biking
Mountain bikes can be rented all over town. Daily rental prices are negotiable but shouldn’t be more than CH$10,000 to CH$14,000 (unless it is a brand-new bike with full suspension).
The most popular route is the Ojos de Caburgua Loop (though increased traffic has killed some of the joy here). Take the turnoff to the airfield about 4km east of town and across Río Trancura. It’s a dustbowl in summer, though, and tends to irritate all but the most hard-core riders. Extensions off the same route include the Lago Caburgua to Río Liucura Loop and the full Río Trancura Loop. Two other popular trails that are close to town are Correntoso and Alto Palguín–Chinay (to the Palguín hot springs). It’s also possible to tackle the volcano on a downhill run (per person based on two/four people CH$70,000/55,000).
Any bike-rental agencies will be able to give you more details and should provide a decent trail map. You’ll pay slightly more, but Freeride Pucón (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9317-8673; www.freeridepuconchile.com; Urrutia 436, Local 3; half-/full day CH$8000/14,000; h9am-8pm Dec-Feb, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mar-Nov) has the best bikes and maintenance in town.
Rafting & Kayaking
Pucón is known for both its river sports and the quality of the rafting and kayaking infrastructure. Most of the larger travel agencies run rafting trips. The rivers near Pucón and their corresponding rapids classifications are: the Lower Trancura (III), the Upper Trancura (IV), Liucura (II–III), the Puesco Run (V) and the Maichín (IV–V), among many others. Bear in mind, rafting here is not as good as Futaleufú.
When negotiating a rafting or kayaking trip, recognize that the stated trip durations often include transportation, not just the time spent on the water. Prices can range from CH$10,000 full-day rentals to CH$50,000 excursions depending on the season, the number of people per raft or kayaking trip, the company and the level of challenge. Many of the rivers are swollen in the winter and closed for most sports, although it is still possible to raft or kayak in some.
In spring and winter hydrospeeding (CH$25,000) is an excellent option – some say better than rafting.
WORTH A TRIP
TERMAS GEOMETRICAS
If all that climbing, trekking, paddling and cycling have left your bones rattled and your muscles begging for mercy, you’re in luck. Pucón’s environs are sitting on one of the world’s biggest natural Jacuzzis. Hot springs are as common as adventure outfitters around here, but Termas Geométricas (%cell 9-7477-1708; www.termasgeometricas.cl; Acceso a Termas Geométricas; adult/child before noon CH$23,000/12,000, noon-6pm CH$28,000/12,000, 6-9pm CH$25,000/12,000, 9-11pm CH$20,000/12,000; h11am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat) stands out above the crowd.
For couples and design aficionados, this Asian-inspired, red-planked maze of 17 beautiful slate hot springs set upon a verdant canyon over a rushing stream is simply gorgeous.
There are two waterfalls and three cold plunge pools to cool off in, and a cafe heated by fogón (outdoor oven) and stocked with natural chicken soup and real coffee. If it weren’t for the Spanish, you’d think it was Kyoto.
It’s located 15km north of Coñaripe. Transport is available from Coñaripe (CH$33,000 including admission) or there are day trips from Pucón (around CH$39,000 including admission). The gravel approach from Coñaripe has improved over the years and is passable in a normal vehicle in good conditions.
Adventure outfitter Turismo Aventura Chumay (%9-9744-8835; www.turismochumay.cl; Las Tepas 201; h9am-midnight, shorter hr winter) rents mountain bikes and offers trekking excursions to Glaciar Pichillancahue, day trips to Huilo-Huilo Biological Reserve and trips to Termas Geométricas. Stay at Hostal Chumay (%9-9744-8835; www.hostalchumay.cl; Las Tepas 201; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$25,000/35,000/45,000; piW) or Hotel Elizabeth (%63-231-7272; www.hotelelizabeth.cl; Beck de Ramberga 496; s/d/tr CH$30,000/48,000/58,000; iW), both with on-site restaurants.
In the shadow of one of Chile’s most active volcanoes, Coñaripe offers a far more tranquil, less commercial experience than Pucón but those looking for action will be twiddling their thumbs. Información Turística (%63-231-7378; www.sietelagos.cl; Plaza de Armas; h9am-10pm Jan-Feb, shorter hr winter) is a good source of information on hot springs in the area.
Local buses ply the main road for Villarica (CH$1200, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes, 6:40am to 9:15pm), Lican Ray (CH$700, every 10 minutes, 30 minutes, 6:40am to 8:40pm), Liquiñe (CH$1000, one hour, seven daily, 11am to 7:30pm) and Panguipulli (CH$1200, 45 minutes, seven daily, 7:30am to 5pm).
TTours
oAguaventuraOUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-4246; www.aguaventura.com; Palguín 336; h8:30am-10pm Dec-Mar, to 8:30pm Apr-Nov)
This friendly French-owned agency is your one-stop shop, offering highly skilled volcano guides (beer after!) and also specializing in snow sports and kayaking, but can book it all. It also rents everything for the mountain, water and snow (including GoPro). Co-owner Vincent was the president of the agency association when we visited and there’s an emphasis on safety.
Summit ChileOUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-3259; www.summitchile.org; Urrutia 585; h10am-8pm Nov-Mar, to 6pm Apr-Oct)
Started by internationally certified Claudio Retamal, a former Chilean climbing champion and the most experienced guide on the volcano. He can also take you up the other volcanoes – Lanín, Llaima and Lonquimay – as well as offering rock climbing, throwing in some geology and natural history along the way. Advanced/backcountry skiers should ask about skiing up Villarrica.
AntilcoHORSEBACK RIDING
(%cell 9-9713-9758; www.antilco.com; Carhuello, Km7)
Highly recommended outfitter that runs half- to 12-day horse treks in Liucura Valley, Parque Nacional Huerquehue, Mapuche reservations and on to Argentina. They’re designed for both beginners and experts, with English-speaking guides.
AventurOUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-2796; www.aventurpucon.cl; Panguín 383; 1-/2-day hydrospeed CH$20,000-25,000)
Aventur is the recommended agency for hydrospeeding.
In spring and winter, when water levels are higher, this is a great-value water adventure in Pucón.
Bike PucónMOUNTAIN BIKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9579-4818; www.bikepucon.com; cnr Caupolicán & Perú; half-day tours incl bike rental from CH$75,000; h10am-2pm & 5-9 pm Dec-Mar)
Offers thrilling 17km to 20km downhill rides spread among six trails of very slippery volcanic terrain, single-track and old fire roads. It’s not for novices – you can make it on limited experience, but expect to kiss some ash at one point or another.
Outside of high season, you can only reserve online.
ElementosCULTURAL
(%cell 9-5689-3491; www.elementos-chile.com) S
A good bet for etnotourism, merging nature, culture and gastronomy with an eco-slant, this German-run agency runs half- to multiday trips from the Biobío to Chiloé that delve deeper into Mapuche culture, including cooking lessons with Mapuche chefs, visits to rukas (traditional thatched Mapuche houses) and meet-and-greets with Mapuche medicine men, with a few waterfalls and Andean lagoons thrown in.
Discounts for booking online or via WhatsApp.
Canyoning PucónCAYONING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9294-6913; www.canyoningpucon.cl; Blanco Encalada 185)
The recommended agency for canyoning offers half-day trips to Pillán (October to March) and Nevados (December to April) canyons (both CH$35,000).
Kayak PucónKAYAKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9716-2347; www.kayakpucon.com; Av O’Higgins 211; h9am-9pm Nov-Feb; 
c)
This well-regarded kayak operator offers three-day kayak courses (CH$240,000) as well as multiday expeditions for more experienced boaters. Half-day ducky (one-person inflatable boats) tours on Class III rapids are a good option for those with less kayak experience (CH$25,000). There’s rafting for kids and more adventurous tours for advanced kayakers. Also rents all kayak equipment.
Free Tour PucónWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-4305-5479; www.freetourpucon.com; h11am Wed-Sun Dec-Mar) F
Javier is your enthusiastic, English-speaking guide on this great two-hour walking tour that goes beyond belays and backpacks. No need for reservations in high-season – just turn up at the plaza in front of the church.
PoliturRAFTING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-1373; www.politur.cl; Av O’Higgins 635; h8am-11pm, to 8pm May-Oct)
The go-to agency for rafting.
4Sleeping
o¡école!HOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-1675; www.ecole.cl; Urrutia 592; r CH$36,000-58,000, s/d without bathroom CH$20,000/24,000, dm with/without bedding CH$12,00/9000; piW) S
Eco-conscious ¡école! is a travel experience in itself. It’s a meeting point for conscientious travelers and a tranquil and artsy hangout that has long been Pucón’s most interesting place to stay. Rooms are small, clean and comfortable, but walls are thin and voices carry within the leafy grounds, so it’s not a wild party hostel.
Four new rooms outfitted with soothing light-pastel hardwoods and modern bathrooms with cotton shower curtains are quietly set in the back; there’s yoga three times per day; a massage room; and an excellent vegetarian restaurant is one of Chile’s best (mains CH$4800 to CH$5400). These guys were preaching sustainability, conservation and eco-everything nearly two decades before anyone else in Chile.
Chili KiwiHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-9540; www.chilikiwihostel.com; Roberto Geis 355; dm from CH$10,000, r without bathroom from CH$34,000; W) S
Sitting on prime lakeside real estate, this is Pucón’s most sociable hostel. It’s run by an enthusiastic Kiwi-Dutch partnership packing years of globetrotting experience from which to draw their traveler-centric ideas. There are various dorms and private options (converted vans, tree houses, cabins, Quonset-style huts, with top-quality bedding), an overload of design-detailed kitchens/bathrooms and up to two outlets per dorm bed.
A guest-only craft-beer pub, featuring a wonderful outdoor terrace built by German wandergeselle, offers cheaper pints than outside. What’s not to love?
French Andes IIHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-3324; www.french-andes.com; Pasaje Luck 795; dm 1/2 people CH$14,000/24,000, r without bathroom CH$45,000; piW) S
This French-owned hostel has a lot going for it: Japanese-style capsule dorms (both single and double) actually offer more privacy than a standard dorm room (luggage is stored outside in lockboxes or cages) and shared bright-red bathrooms have a touch of personality. The backyard – firepit and all – is a real coup. There are impressive Villarica views and recycling too.
Okori HostelHOSTEL$
(%cell 9-9821-9442; www.okorihostelpucon.com; Camino Internacional, Km5; dm from CH$12,000, r with/without bathroom from CH$65,000/50,000; pW)
If you aren’t fussed about being in the center of town or you dig a little nature with your hosteling, this newcomer tucked away in a residential neighborhood 5km outside Pucón is a good option. The purpose-built hostel is steeped in native hardwood – a wood-carved bar, wood-carved sinks, reclaimed-hardwood staircase banisters etc.
Hostal VictorGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-3525; www.hostalvictor.cl; Palguín 705; dm/r CH$15,000/40,000; iW)
If you value actual sleep, Victor stands out for cleanliness and a warm atmosphere conducive to rest. All rooms – including the four-bed dorms – offer private bathrooms.
Hotel AntumalalBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%45-244-1011; www.antumalal.com; Camino Pucón–Villarrica, Km2; r from CH$339,900, lakehouse for 6 CH$780,000; pWs)
This testament to Bauhaus architecture on the road to Villarrica is built into a cliffside above the lake. From its tree-bark lamps to araucaria-clad walls, it instills a sense of location while being wildly and wonderfully out of place.
Its huge slanting windows give unbeatable views of Lago Villarrica from the swanky common areas and all the minimalist rooms offer fireplaces; some have fern- and moss-covered raw rock for the internal walls. The restaurant does international cuisine with a Chilean spark (mains CH$10,000 to CH$17,000), with many ingredients plucked right from the organic vegetable patch, just a drop in the bucket of the property’s 12 hectares of gardens.
Aldea NaukanaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244-3508; www.aldeanaukana.com; Geró-nimo de Alderete 656; incl breakfast r from CH$143,000, ste CH$190,000; pW)
A wonderful clash of native hardwoods and volcanic stone forms the backbone of this 10-room boutique hotel, one of our favorites in Pucón proper. Besides the wonderfully comfortable rooms, there a small sauna (included in rates) and a chargeable rooftop hot tub with expectedly stupendous volcano views.
5Eating
oTrawenCHILEAN, FUSION$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244 2024; www.trawen.cl; Av O’Higgins 311; mains CH$6200-16,800; h8:30am-midnight; W) S
Trawen is a time-honored favorite that does some of Pucón’s best gastronomic work for the price, boasting innovative flavor combinations and fresh-baked everything. Highlights include excellent smoked-trout ravioli in spinach-cream sauce, bacon-wrapped venison, smoked merkén octopus risotto and salads from the restaurant’s own certified-organic gardens, the first in southern Chile. To accompany, biodynamic and natural wines. Creative types tend to congregate here.
Just DeliciousMIDDLE EASTERN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/JDpucon; O’Higgins 717, Local 7, Patagonia Blvd; hnoon-4pm & 6:30-9pm Tue-Sat; W
v)
Israeli transplant Tal makes everything from scratch – often with ingredients smuggled in from the motherland – at this fantastic, cash-only Middle Eastern haven for hummus, falafel, shakshuka (eggs with spicy tomato sauce), baba ghanoush, baklava and more! The falafel sandwich (hummus, pickled cabbage, tahini and spicy matbukha in house-made pita) is a revelation. Even Tal’s house-cured pickled veggies are memorable.
SundarVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/sundarvegetariano; Ansorena 438; meals CH$3000; hnoon-5pm, closed Sun; v)
Vegetarian or not, this is one of Pucón’s best deals, a tiny, locals-in-the-know-only hot spot for healthy, daily-changing vegetarian lunch menus hidden away in the back of a small shopping center.
Menta NegraCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.emporiomentanegra.cl; O’Higgins 772; set meals CH$6900; h9am-midnight, closed Sun Apr-Nov; W)
On a sunny day, it’s hard to beat plopping yourself down on this artsy emporium’s patio for good home-cooked meals and views of a rare breed in Pucón: to nature, not development.
La PicadaCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Paraguay 215; set lunch CH$4500; hnoon-4pm, closed Sun Mar-Nov)
This locals’ secret is out: an underground eatery in someone’s living room (or outside on the new terrace) serving fuss-free set lunches: salads, pastel de choclo (maize casserole), cazuelas, pasta. No sign. Knock to gain entrance.
Latitude 39°AMERICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.latitude39.cl; Urrutia 436, Local 2; mains CH$5900-7800; hnoon-11:30pm, shorter hr winter; W)
California-transplant owners fill a clearly appreciated gringo niche at this homesick-remedy of a restaurant. Juicy American-style burgers are a huge hit: try the Grand Prix (caramelized onions, bacon, peanut butter) or the Buddha (Sriracha mayo, Asian slaw, popcorn shrimp), but there’s also a fat breakfast burrito (available for lunch!), fish tacos, buffalo chicken wraps and everything else you might miss.
Expresso de LiderSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.lider.cl; Pasaje Las Rosas 635; h8:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun)
Pucón’s best-stocked supermarket for international brands.
El CastilloINTERNATIONAL$$
(%cell 9-8901-8089; Camino a Volcán, Km8; mains CH$3600-12,900; h6am-5pm Dec-Feb, shorter hr winter)
Along the volcano road and with optimal Ansel Adams–like views of the beast itself, this volcanic-stone and wood space warmed by a Russian stove is a requisite stop for those with wheels. Chef Zoe does homey gourmet with an emphasis on game – wild rabbit, venison stroganoff, wild boar – that stunningly satiates the urge for something different.
La MagaSTEAK$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %45-244 4277; www.lamagapucon.cl; Gerónimo de Alderete 276; steaks CH$13,900-18,900; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Dec-Mar, closed Mon Mar-Nov)
There is a parrilla (steakhouse) for every budget in Pucón, but this Uruguayan steakhouse stands out for its bife de chorizo (steak), house-cut fries and addictive chimichurri. It’s a far cry from cheap, but this is one of Sur Chico’s best grills.
Viva PerúPERUVIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.vivaperudeli.cl; Lincoyán 372; mains CH$8900-15,900; h1pm-midnight Dec-Mar, 1-4pm & 7:30-11:30pm Apr-Nov; W)
This intimate Peruvian restaurant does all the classics and does them well: ceviche (raw fish and onions marinated in citrus juices and spices), tiradito (onion-free ceviche), chicharones (deep-fried pork rinds) and ají de gallina (creamy chicken stew with cheese, peppers and peanuts). It even serves Peru’s famous Chinese-fusion chifa dishes.
Pizza CalaPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.pizzacala.cl; Lincoyán 361; pizzas CH$5700-19,000; hnoon-midnight; W)
The best pizza in town is spit from a massive 1300-brick oven by an Argentine-American pizza maker who grows his own fresh basil. In winter it’s the only warm restaurant in town.
oLa Fleur de SelFRENCH$$$
(%45-197-0060; www.termaspeumayen.cl; Camino Pucón–Huife, Km28; mains CH$8900-14,500; h1-4pm & 7:30-9pm, closed Mon mid-Mar–mid-Dec) S
Basque-country chef Michel Moutrousteguy offers a Mapuche-infused French menu that’s well worth the trip to Termas Peumayén (for the food, not the service), 32km east of Pucón, even if you don’t plan on getting wet. It’s meat heavy (wild rabbit, beef tongue pot au feu, beef bourguignonne), fiercely local and seasonal, and the region’s gourmet destination for foodies.
A three-course menu plus entrance to the hot springs runs CH$27,500. Peumayén is reachable by car or five times daily from Pucón with Fer Bus (CH$1500).
6Drinking & Nightlife
BeerHouseCRAFT BEER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/BeerHousePucon; Urrutia 324; pints CH$3300-4000; h5:30pm-12:30am Mon-Thu, to 1:30am Thu & Fri)
Beggars can’t be choosers, so hopheads congregate here, Pucón’s only bar dedicated to cervezas artesanales. That said, while there isn’t much to choose from (six taps and a handful of bottles from Chile/USA), what’s here is solid: Hoppy IPAs from Tübunger and Jester, Cuello Negro stout and a selection from San Diego’s Ballast Point, among others.
Big burgers and piles of skin-on fries as well. Grab a spot on the street patio!
Madd Goat Coffee RoastersCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/patagoniaroast; O’Higgins 717, Local 3, Patagonia Blvd; coffee CH$1600-4000; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat; W)
Pucón may have got hip to good coffee two decades after everyone else, but it finally has a Third Wave coffeehouse to satiate the masses dying from Nescafé overdose. American owner Scott Roberts roasts Latin American–sourced beans in-house and pulls his espresso from a stylish Pavoni machine from Italy.
Mama’s & TapasBAR, CLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av O’Higgins 597; cocktails from CH$5500; h10am-5am Dec-Mar, from 6pm Apr-Nov)
Known simply as ‘Mama’s,’ this is Pucón’s long-standing bar of note. It boasts an all-wood wall and ceiling space designed by an acoustic engineer to sonically seize your attention. It doesn’t get going until the wee hours, when it morphs into a club.
Black ForestLOUNGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.blackforest.cl; O’Higgins 524; cocktails CH$3000-6000; h5pm-3am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri-Sat; W)
Black Forest caters to a slightly more refined drinking crowd content to tuck away in chic lounge environs, soak up cocktails with decent sushi and enjoy a bit of live music on Saturday nights.
La Vieja EscuelaCLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.laviejaescuelacultobar.com; Colo Colo 450; h8:30pm-3:30am Mon-Thu, to 5am Fri-Sun; W)
This dark and sexy bar/club/live-music venue – ‘The Old School’ – caters to sophisticated 30-somethings who’ve outgrown the guide-versus-backpacker pickup game. Blood-red velvet seats emanate Victorian overtones and the whole place is in a class all its own. Expect DJs and live rock.
8Information
Petty theft is on the rise in Pucón, especially in the areas around the beach. Bikes and backpacks are the biggest targets, but you can’t leave anything in your vehicle overnight. Use prudence.
There are several banks with ATMs up and down Av O’Higgins. Banco do Estado’s withdrawal fees are the cheapest.
Banco de Chile (www.bancochile.cl; Av O’Higgins 311) ATM.
BancoEstado (www.bancoestado.cl; Av O’Higgins 240) ATM.
Carabineros de Chile (%45-246-6339; www.carabineros.cl; O’Higgins 135; h24hr) Police
CorreosChile (www.correos.cl; Fresia 183; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12:30pm Sat)
Conaf (%45-244-3781; www.conaf.cl; Lincoyán 336; h8:30am-6:30pm Mon-Fri) The best-equipped Conaf in the region.
Oficina de Turismo (%45-229-3001; www.destinopucon.com; cnr Av O’Higgins & Palguín; h8:30am-10pm, to 7pm Apr-Oct) Has stacks of brochures and usually an English-speaker on staff. There is a seasonal kiosk (www.destinopucon.com; Plaza de Armas; h11:30am-7pm holiday weekends & Jul, 8:30am-10pm mid-Dec–mid-Feb) on Plaza de Armas as well.
8Getting There & Away
Bus transportation to and from Santiago is best made with TurBus (%45-268-6102; www.turbus.com; Av Bernardo O’Higgins 447A; h7:30am-9:30pm), with its own station just east of the center, and Pullman Bus (%45-241-4217; www.pullman.cl; Palguín 555; h7:30am-9:30pm), in the center. Both offer a few daily departures to Viña del Mar/Valparaíso. Buses JAC (%045-299-3183; www.jac.cl; cnr Uruguay & Palguín; h7am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun) goes to Temuco as well as Puerto Montt via Osorno and Puerto Varas. For Valdivia, JAC has up to six daily buses, while Buses Vipu-Ray (%cell 9-6835-5798; Palguín 550) and Trans Curarrehue (%cell 9-9273-1043; Palguín 550) have continuous services to Villarrica and Curarrehue. Buses Caburgua (%cell 9-9838-9047; Palguín 555) has at least three daily buses to and from Parque Nacional Huerquehue. From the same station, Fer Bus (%cell 9-9047-6382; Palguín 555) goes to Termas Los Pozones, Termas Peumayen, and Santuario El Cañi.
Buses San Martín (%45-244-2798; Uruguay 627; h9am-1pm & 3:30-7:45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat, 4:30-7:45pm Sun) offers departures for Argentina Tuesday and Saturday at 7:45am to San Martín de los Andes, and Neuquén via Junín. Igi Llaima (%45-244-4762; www.igillaima.cl; cnr Palguín & Uruguay; h7am-1:30pm & 3-9pm) heads to San Martín de los Andes and Neuquén.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Curarrehue | 1000 | ¾ |
| Neuquén (Ar) | 42,000 | 9 |
| Parque Nacional Huerquehue | 2000 | ¾ |
| Puerto Montt | 9800 | 5 |
| San Martín de los Andes (Ar) | 14,000 | 5 |
| Santiago | 38,400/35,500 | 9½ |
| Santuario El Cañi | 1000 | |
| Temuco | 2800 | 1 |
| Termas Los Pozones | 1500 | |
| Termas Peumayen | 1500 | |
| Valdivia | 4700 | 3 |
| Valparaíso/Viña del Mar | 35,500 | 12½ |
| Villarrica | 1000 | ½ |
8Getting Around
Pucón itself is very walkable. A number of travel agencies rent cars and prices can be competitive, especially in the low season, though prices tend to climb on weekends.
Kilometro Libre (%9-9218-7307; www.rentacarkilometrolibre.com; Palguín 212, Hotel Rangi Pucón; h9am-6pm)
Parque Nacional Villarrica
Parque Nacional Villarrica is one of the most popular parks in the country because of its glorious mix of volcanoes and lakes. Its proximity to Pucón, with all of the town’s tourism infrastructure, also makes Villarrica an unusually accessible park for everyone from bus-trippers to climbers, skiers and hard-core hikers.
The highlights of the 630-sq-km park are the three volcanoes: Villarrica (2847m) – which erupted briefly but spectacularly in March 2015; Quetrupillán (2360m); and, along the Argentine border, a section of Lanín (3747m). The rest of Lanín is protected in an equally impressive park in Argentina, from where it may be climbed.
Since the 2015 eruption, high alerts have been occasionally issued – please check the situation on the ground ahead of your visit.
2Activities
Climbing
The hike to the smoking, sometimes-lava-spitting crater of Volcán Villarrica is a popular full-day excursion (around CH$85,000 to CH$95,000, not including the chairlift fee of CH$10,000), leaving Pucón between 6am and 7am depending on the season. You do not need prior mountaineering experience, but it’s no Sunday stroll and can challenge even seasoned trekkers. Conditions are most difficult in fall when snow levels are depleted.
It is important to use reliable equipment and choose an outfitter with guides who are properly trained. Note that bad weather may delay organized ascents for days. Less-reputable operators may take you partway up on days when they know the weather won’t hold, just so they don’t have to return the money.
Solo climbers must obtain permission from Conaf in Pucón.
Hiking
The most accessible sector of the park, Rucapillán, is directly south of Pucón along a well-maintained road and takes in the most popular hikes up and around Volcán Villarrica.
The Challupén–Chinay trail (23km, 12 hours) rounds the volcano’s southern side, crossing through a variety of scenery to end at the entrance to the Quetrupillán sector. This sector is easily accessed via the road that goes to Termas de Palguín. However, if you plan to continue through to Coñaripe, the road south through the park requires a high-clearance 4WD even in good weather. A 32km combination of hikes, with a couple of camping areas, links to the Puesco sector, near the Argentine border, where there is public transportation back to Curarrehue and Pucón (or you can make connections to carry on to Argentina).
Those traversing the volcano (as opposed to climbing it) are charged a CH$10,000 fee.
Skiing
Ski Pucón (%45-244-1901; www.skipucon.cl; Clemente Holzapfel 190, Pucón office at Enjoy Tour, Gran Hotel Pucón; full-day lift ticket adult/child CH$38,000/32,000; h9am-5pm Jul–mid-Oct) is the most developed ski resort in La Araucanía. Officially, there are six lifts and 17 runs, though many can be closed. An artificial snow park is quite good for freestyle skiers and snowboarders, and eruptions have carved out some natural landscapes for jumping (half-pipes etc) over the years.
8Getting There & Away
Taxis from Pucón to the volcano base (CH$20,000 to CH$25,000, 30 minutes), your own car or a tour are the only ways to get to the park (although fit mountain bikers can make it too).
Río Liucura & Río Caburgua Valleys
Heading northeast out of Pucón, the wishbone road splits into two valleys. Highlights of the Río Caburgua Valley to the north include Lago Caburgua and its wonderful Playa Blanca (24km away), as well as waterfall-heavy Ojos del Caburgua. The Camino Pucón–Huife road leads to myriad hot springs, El Cañi (www.santuariocani.cl; Pichares, Km21; with/without guide CH$15,000/4000; hentrances from 8am-noon only) nature sanctuary and views of the silver-ribbon Río Liucura that cuts through this richly verdant valley. Both routes are a magnet for those looking to escape the buzz of Pucón for more relaxing environs – especially nature enthusiasts and those who appreciate soaking the day or night away in one of Mother Nature’s fevered bathtubs. Both roads eventually link back up with the road to Parque Nacional Huerquehue.
2Activities
Within Santuario El Cañi, a hiking trail (7.5km, three hours) from the park’s administration ascends the steep terrain (the first 3km very steep) of lenga and araucaria to arrive at Laguna Negra. On clear days the lookout – another 1km – allows for spectacular views of the area’s volcanoes. In winter, when the underbrush is covered in snow, the area is particularly gorgeous. All hikers must go with a guide, except in summer when the trail is easier to find. An alternative route, which detours around the steepest part, starts along the road to Coilaco; a guide is required. Camping and accommodations are now available at La Loma Pucón.
A new and excellent trail map – with flora and fauna info – is available at at ¡école! as well as El Cañi’s administration.
Cañi Guides GroupHIKING
(%cell 9-9837-3928; contacto@santuariocani.cl)
The nature sanctuary El Cañi is now a reserve that protects some 500 hectares of ancient araucaria forest, all of which has been turned over and now successfully maintained by this local guide association.
4Sleeping
La Loma PucónCAMPGROUND$
(%cell 9-8882-9845; www.tocatierra.cl/tocatierra4.html; Santuario El Cañi; campsites per person CH$5000)
Rod Walker, an environmental-education legend in Chile, runs basic camping facilities at La Loma Pucón within the sanctuary. It’s 2km up from the park admin and operates with a DIY/remote-control arrangement with trust box and mobile-phone backup. Full details online.
Elementos Eco LodgeLODGE$$$
(%45-244-1750; www.elementos-chile.com; Camino a Caburgua, Km16; incl breakfast s/d/ste CH$100,000/120,000/160,000; pW) S
This new sustainable lodge on the road to Caburgua features eight grass-roofed rooms and suites made from straw and mud with Río Liucura views from the bathtubs and showers. Each room is themed after a Mapuche Ngen (spirit element) and features corresponding color and aromatherapy. The wooden furniture was carved by a Mapuche mamuillñfe (ceremonial sculptor) to match the theme.
8Getting There & Away
Arrangements to visit El Cañi can be made at ¡école! in Pucón or at the entrance to the park. Alternatively, Fer Bus can drop you off on its way to Caburgua five times daily between 7am and 5:30pm Monday to Saturday; four times daily between 10:30am and 5:30pm Sunday (CH$1000).
Parque Nacional Huerquehue
Startling aquamarine lakes surrounded by verdant old-growth forests ensure wonderful Parque Nacional Huerquehue (%cell 9-6157-4089; www.conaf.cl/parques/parque-nacional-huerquehue; adult/child Chilean CH$3000/1500, foreigner CH$5000/3000) is one of the shining stars of the south and a standout in the Chilean chain of national parks. The 125-sq-km preserve, founded in 1912, is awash with rivers and waterfalls, alpine lakes and araucaria forests, and a long list of interesting creatures, including the pudú (the world’s smallest deer) and arañas pollitos (tarantula-like spiders that come out in the fall). The trails here are well marked and maintained and warrant multiple days of exploration, but a day trip from Pucón, about 35km to the southwest, is a must for those in a bigger hurry.
4Sleeping
Lago TinquilcoCAMPGROUND$
(%cell 9-6157-4089; parque.huerquehue@conaf.cl; campsites Chileans/foreigners CH$15,000/18,000)
Camping accommodations with electricity and hot water are at the Conaf-managed 22-site Lago Tinquilco.
RenahueCAMPGROUND$
(%cell 9-6157-4089; parque.huerquehue@conaf.cl; campsites CH$15,000)
Conaf-managed camping with bare-bones facilities on the Los Huerquenes trail.
Refugio TinquilcoLODGE$$
(%cell 9-9539-2728; www.tinquilco.cl; all incl breakfast campsites CH$20,000, dm CH$16,000, d with/without bathroom CH$42,900/34,900, cabins CH$75,000; hclosed Jun-Aug)
Refugio Tinquilco, on private property at the Lago Verde trailhead 2km past the park entrance, is a luxe two-story lodge offering much more than a bed, a meal and a quiet place to get away from it all – it’s an experience. After hiking, be sure to submit yourself to the addictive forest sauna/plunge-pool treatment (CH$14,000).
Your host, Patricio, turns out hearty home-style Chilean cuisine with welcome touches, such as French-press coffee and an extensive wine list, and is a helluva guy to share a bottle of Carmenere with. He also produces an invaluable field guide to the park that is leaps and bounds beyond anything published by Conaf.
Designed by an architect, a writer, an engineer and an Emmy-nominated documentary filmmaker, it’s the kind of place people lose themselves for a week and lost souls find their way. Lunch or dinner is CH$10,500.
8Information
Centro de Informaciones Ambientales (%cell 9-6157-4089; www.conaf.cl; h10:30am-2:30pm & 4:30-7:30pm) At the entrance of Parque Nacional Huequehue; hiking maps and park info.
8Getting There & Away
Buses Caburgua has at least three daily buses from Pucón to Parque Nacional Huerquehue (CH$2000, 45 minutes, 8:30am, 1pm and 4pm), returning from the park at 9:30am, 2:10pm and 5:10pm.
Curarrehue
%045 / POP 6624
The Mapuche stronghold of Curarrehue, which is located 40km west of the Argentine border, isn’t much to look at, but it has begun a slow rise to fame for its Mapuche cultural museum and wealth of etnoturismo opportunities. The small pueblo – and its fancy new Plaza de Armas – counts 80% of the population as Mapuche and is the last town of note before the Paso de Mamuil Malal (Paso Tromen) border with Argentina.
A sparse but informative museum of Mapuche culture, Museo Intercultural Trawupeyüm (Héroes de la Concepción 21; CH$1000; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, from 11am Sat & Sun Jan & Feb, 9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat Mar-Dec) is housed in a modern interpretation of a mountain ruka, a traditional circular Mapuche dwelling oriented to the east.
4Sleeping & Eating
Ko PanquiLODGE$$
(%cell 9-9441-5769; www.facebook.com/kopanqui/; Camino a Panqui, Km4.9; cabañas/ste CH$76,000/102,000; pWs) S
Located 5km north of Curarrehue in the Panqui hills, this sustainable lodge and artistic retreat, the brainchild of Claudio Ansorena (the grandson of Pucón’s founder) is an idyllic, gay- and pet-friendly escape surrounded by bucolic bliss. The three stylish, grass-roofed cabañas are great; the plant-filtered infinity pool – staring off at three volcanoes – is a little piece of heaven in Chile.
oAnita Epulef Cocina MapucheCHILEAN$
(Mapu Lyagl; %cell 9-8788-7188; anita.epulef@gmail.com; Camino al Curarrehue; menú CH$7500; h1:30-5:30pm Dec-Feb, by reservation only Apr-Nov; v)
Mapuche chef Anita Epulef turns seasonal ingredients into adventurous vegetarian Mapuche tasting menus. You can sample such indigenous delicacies as mullokiñ (bean puree rolled in quinoa), sautéed piñones (the nut of the araucaria tree – in season only!) and roasted corn bread with an array of salsas – all excellent and unique.
For those with extra time, Anita also offers half-day cooking courses (per person CH$15,000; April to November). Coming from Pucón, you’ll find her on the right-hand side of the main road just before the town entrance.
8Information
Tourism Office (%45-219-71574; www.curarrehue.cl; O’Higgins s/n; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Small and signless – but helpful – tourist information along the main road through town.
8Getting There & Away
Trans Curarrehue heads to Pucón (CH$1000, 45 minutes, every 30 to 60 minutes, 6:30am to 8:30pm).
Buses to Pucón (O’Higgins s/n)
Los Ríos
Valdivia
%063 / POP 154,432
Valdivia was crowned the capital of Chile’s newest Región XIV (Los Ríos) in 2007, after years of defection talk surrounding its inclusion in the Lakes District despite its geographical, historical and cultural differences. It is the most important university town in southern Chile and, as such, offers a strong emphasis on the arts, student prices at many hostels, cafes, restaurants and bars, southern Chile’s best craft-beer culture and a refreshing dose of youthful energy and German effervescence.
1Sights
Feria FluvialMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Prat s/n; h7am-3:30pm)
A lively riverside market south of the Valdivia bridge, where vendors sell fresh fish, meat and produce. Waterfront sea lions have discovered the Promised Land here – a place where they can float around all day and let tourists and fishmongers throw them scraps from the daily catch. A fresh ceviche here runs CH$1500.
To get closer to the sea lions, walk up the costanera another 200m.
Cervecería KunstmannBREWERY
(%63-229-2969; www.cerveza-kunstmann.cl; Ruta T-350 950; pints CH$3100-3500, mains CH$6600-10,600; hnoon-10pm)
On Isla Teja at Km5 on the road to Niebla, you’ll find the south’s best large-scale brewery. Standard tours (45 minutes) leave hourly from 12:15pm to 8pm (CH$10,000) and include a takeaway glass mug and a 300ml sampling of the Torobayo unfiltered, available only here, straight from the tank. A more elaborate 90-minute tour (CH$15,000), which includes a five-beer sampling and a ride to the factory in an electric kombi, goes four times a day (12:15pm, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm; hours can vary).
Unless you’re a beer-history nut, the cost of the tour is better spent on sampling your way through the 15 or so beers on offer here, chased with hearty German fare that includes lots of pork chops, sauerkraut and currywurst. With Valdivia’s craft-beer explosion, the beers here no longer carry the same cachet as in the past, there isn’t a German in sight, and it’s nearly overflowing with tourists and tour buses, but you could still do worse than drinking away an afternoon here. Micro (minibus) 20 from Carampangue to Isla Teja (CH$600) can drop you off – a good idea even if you have wheels.
Museo Histórico y AntropológicoMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museosaustral.cl; Los Laureles s/n; adult/child CH$1500/300; h10am-8pm, shorter hr winter)
Housed in a fine riverfront mansion on Isla Teja, this museum is one of Chile’s finest. It features a large, well-labeled collection from pre-Columbian times to the present, with particularly fine displays of Mapuche Indian artifacts, and fine silverware and household items from early German settlements.
On the same grounds, you’ll find the sparse Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.macvaldivia.uach.org; Los Laureles s/n; adult/child CH$1500/300; h10am-8pm, shorter hr winter) and, in a neighboring mansion, the science- and nature-oriented RA Philippi Museo de la Exploración (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.museosaustral.cl; Los Laureles s/n; adult/child CH$1500/300; h10am-8pm, shorter hr winter). Admission, plus Museo Histórico y Antropológico, costs CH$2500.
Parque ProchellePARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; h8am-10pm) F
This urban Isla Teja park contains two historic homes opposite the main road from the park entrance.
Parque SavalPARK
(adult/child CH$500/100; h8am-midnight, shorter hr winter)
Parque Saval on Isla Teja has a riverside beach and a pleasant trail that follows the shoreline of Laguna de los Lotos, covered with lily pads. It’s a good place for birdwatching.
Torreón de los CanelosTOWER
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Yerbas Buenas & General Lagos)
The inaccessible Torreón de los Canelos, which dates from the 17th century, is one of a couple of turrets can be seen around town east of the bus terminal.
Torreón del BarroTOWER
(Av Costanera Arturo Prat s/n)
Torreón del Barro is from a Spanish fort built in 1774. It’s closed to the public.
TTours
Reina SofíaCRUISE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %63-220-7120; CH$20,000; hcruise 1:30pm)
A recommended (albeit a bit pushy) outfitter for Valdivia’s standard boat cruises. It departs from Puerto Fluvial at the base of Arauco.
zFestivals & Events
Noche de ValdiviaCULTURAL
(www.nochevaldiviana.cl; h3rd Sat in Feb)
The largest happening is Noche de Valdivia, which features decorated riverboats and fireworks.
4Sleeping
oAiresbuenos Hostel & PermaculturaHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %63-222-2202; www.airesbuenos.cl; García Reyes 550; dm/r incl breakfast CH$12,000/38,000; iW) S
Valdivia’s best hostel is run by a friendly northern Californian who has turned this long-standing traveler mainstay into one of Sur Chico’s most ecofriendly sleeps. Solar-heated showers, rainwater catchment, permaculture, vertical gardens, compost, Egyptian bamboo towels – it’s all here. Besides the sustainability, you’ll find comfy, colorful dorm rooms and simple, well-done private rooms that are a little on the small side.
Hospedaje del SurB&B$
(%cell 9-8391-3169; franco.silvacampos@gmail.com; José Martí 301; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$22,000/36,000/50,000; pW)
On the 3rd floor of an apartment building attached to the bus terminal, you’ll find astounding value and Chilean-spun hospitality with young lawyer Franco and family. Three rooms in summer (one otherwise) are spacious, with large flat-panel Samsung TVs with cable and homey hardwood ceiling. Breakfast will surprise you: real bread, pastries, cheese and cold cuts.
Hostal TotemGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %63-222-9284; www.turismototem.cl; Carlos Anwandter 425; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$28,000/40,000/47,000; iW)
Of the ample choices along residential thoroughfare Carlos Anwandter, this 11-room guesthouse is the best bang for the peso. Clean rooms, a friendly French- and English-speaking upstart owner and a sunny breakfast room make up for the lack of antiquated character, though the hardwood floors in this old house squeak with the best of ’em.
Hostel Bosque NativoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %63-243-3782; www.hostelnativo.cl; Pasaje Fresia 290; incl breakfast dm CH$12,000, s/d CH$32,000/35,000, without bathroom CH$29,000/33,000; iW)
This hostel, run by a sustainable forestry management NGO, is a wooden den of comfort hidden away down a gravel residential lane a short walk from the bus station. It’s not without issues: there’s no bathroom hand towels and, oddly, toilet paper is outside the stalls in common bathrooms (and there’s limited English).
But the private rooms are some of Valdivia’s best value and it’s one of the city’s coziest hostels.
Hotel Encanto del RíoHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %63-222-4744; www.hotelencantodelrio.cl; Prat 415; s/d CH$59,000/75,000; pW)
This midrange hotel is along a quieter and trendier stretch of the river. It’s laden with indigenous weavings and Botero reprints on the walls, giving it some extra character, and the feeling you’re sleeping in someone’s home with the services of a hotel. River-view rooms have small patios that look straight across the Río Calle Calle…to a factory, unfortunately.
Hostal TorreónHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %63-221-3069; hostaltorreon@gmail.com; Pérez Rosales 783; s/d CH$25,000/40,000, without bathroom CH$20,000/30,000; pW)
This rickety old mansion tucked away off the street prides itself on uneven flooring – it’s survived two massive earthquakes! – and is notable for its antiquated character. The antique-laden common areas are a nod to the house’s lengthy past while 2nd-floor rooms offer more light and less dampness than the basement options. Breakfast is CH$4000 to CH$7000.
5Eating
Café MoroCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Paseo Libertad 174; menú CH$3600; h9:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat; W)
An excellent spot for a supervalue set-menu lunch. It draws an age-defying and eclectic mix of intellectual hipsters and WWF think-tank scientists from Valdivia’s Centro de Estudios Científicos, and turns to drinking as evenings progress.
La Última FronteraRESTAURANT, BAR$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Pérez Rosales 787; sandwiches CH$3000-5300; h10am-2am Mon-Sat; Wv)
You’ll find one-stop traveler nirvana at this restobar with a distinctly bohemian vibe. Hidden quietly away in a restored mansion, it has a load of outside-the-box sandwiches, fresh juices and local craft beer – 15 or so on draft (Cuello Negro, Totem, Valtare, Duende) and a few more stragglers in bottles.
At night, it morphs into a fun bar courtesy of the town’s hip artistic front. Lose yourself in one of the art-saturated rooms or knock back a cold one on the new patio and deck.
EntrelagosCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.entrelagos.cl; Pérez Rosales 640; sandwiches CH$3260-6600; h9am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9:30pm Sat, 11am-9pm Sun)
This classic salón de té (teahouse) is where Valdivians talk about you behind your back over delicious café cortados (espresso with milk, always served with properly carbonated water), cakes and sandwiches. Toasted sandwiches and hearty tablas (shared plates; after 4pm) draw those looking for something more filling (or perhaps just escapists – the Parisian-style seating couldn’t be more un-Chilean).
Mercado MunicipalCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Prat s/n; mains CH$300-8000; h9am-9pm)
Fat plates of fish and chips or choritos al ajillo (mussels in garlic and chilies) are served in three floors of restaurants with river views.
Sello de RazaCHILEAN$$
(%63-222-6262; www.restaurantselloderaza.cl; Las Encinas 301; mains CH$8900-15,900; h7pm-1am Tue-Fri, 12:30pm-1am Sat, 12:30pm-5pm Sun; W)
Classy Sello de Raza holds its own as a parilla (steakhouse), but it does a wonderful job with typical Chilean dishes as well. The pastel de choclo (maize casserole) is one of the best you’ll find and there’s good chupe de jaiba (crab casserole), guatitas a la chilena (tripe stew) etc.
La CalesaPERUVIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://lacalesarestaurante.blogspot.cl; O’Higgins 160; mains CH$7300-10,900; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-4:30pm & 7-11:30pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun; W)
This restaurant serves Peruvian staples, such as garlic-roasted chicken, lomo saltado (stir-fried beef with spices, onions, tomatoes and potatoes) and ceviche appetizers fit for a meal. The pisco sours are memorable as is the suspiro, a Peruvian dessert made from manjar (dulce de leche, a caramel sauce) and meringue and laced with pisco.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oEl GrowlerCRAFT BEER
(www.elgrowler.cl; Saelzer 41; pints CH$2800-4000; hnoon-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 1am Sun; W)
Sur Chico’s best craft-beer destination, El Growler is a collaboration between an Oregonian brewer and his Chilean partner. There are 15 taps, more or less split evenly between house-brewed IPAs, red ales, stouts, porters and experimental brews (and always one cider); and invitees from the region and occasionally the USA. Weather permitting, the outdoor patio is always packed.
Great and rarely seen bar grub (fish tacos, deliciously messy reubens, fish and chips, and interesting veg choices like polenta and garbanzo sandwiches) means you can call it a night here, and you aren’t likely to find a better IPA for kilometers. These guys grow hops right on the patio!
BundorMICROBREWERY
(www.cervezabundor.com; Los Alerces 31; pints CH$2500-3000; h1pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, to 11pm Sun; W)
This seven-tap brewhouse in trendy Isla Teja brews commendable Russian Imperial Stouts, Wee Heavies, Oatmeal Stouts and American India Pale Ale, among others, which are best used here to chase a bevy of burgers (CH$5000 to CH$8900). There’s outdoor patio seating with wooden pallets reincarnated as tables.
8Information
Downtown ATMs are abundant.
Banco de Chile (www.bancochile.cl; Plaza de la República) ATM.
BBVA (www.bbva.cl; cnr Arauco & Camilo Henríquez) ATM.
Carabineros de Chile (%63-226-7800; www.carabineros.cl; Beauchef 1025; h24hr) Police.
CorreosChile (www.correos.cl; O’Higgins 575; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat)
Información Turística (%63-222-0498; www.valdiviaturismo.cl; Anfión Muñoz 360, Terminal Valdivia; h8am-10pm) At the bus terminal, Zone B.
Sernatur (%63-223-9060; www.turismolosrios.cl; Prat s/n; h9am-9pm) Provides very helpful advice.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Aeropuerto Pichoy (%63-227-2294; San José de la Mariquina, Mariquina) is situated 32km northeast from Valdivia on Ruta 5. LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Maipú 271; h9am-1pm & 3:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) has one flight per day from Santiago. JetSmart (www.jetsmart.com) and Sky Airline (www.skyairline.com) also serve the airport.
BUS
Valdivia’s centrally located Terminal Valdivia (%63-222-0498; www.terminalvaldivia.cl; Anfión Muñoz 360), along the northeast side of the costanera at Anfión Muñoz, is one of southern Chile’s most modern and organized. Leave your luggage at the custodia de equipaje (CH$2000; 7am to 11pm).
Ticket offices are located in the terminal’s Zones B and C. Frequent buses head to destinations on or near the Panamericana between Puerto Montt and Santiago, especially with TurBus, (%63-221-2430; www.turbus.cl) Pullman Bus (%63-220-4669; www.pullman.cl) and Cruz del Sur (%63-221-3840; www.busescruzdelsur.cl), the latter with the most frequent services to Chiloé. For Viña del Mar/Valparaíso, TurBus heads out three times daily.
Regional bus carriers include Buses Pirihueico (%63-221-3804 to Panguipulli; Bus Futrono (%63-220-2225) to Futrono; and Buses JAC (%63-233-3343; www.busjac.cl) to Villarrica, Pucón and Temuco. Officeless Ruta 5 (%63-231-7040) goes to Lago Ranco once daily.
Andesmar (%63-220-7948; www.andesmarchile.cl) goes to Bariloche (Argentina) direct at 8:15am daily; a few other bus services also leave from Osorno. For San Martín de los Andes, you’ll need to go to Villarica. To get to Neuquén, head to Osorno.
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Bariloche (Ar) | 23,000 | 7 |
| Castro (Chiloé) | 9300 | 7 |
| Futrono | 2800 | 1½ |
| Lago Ranco | 3100 | 1¾ |
| Osorno | 4000 | 2 |
| Panguipulli | 3300 | 1¾ |
| Pucón | 4700 | 3 |
| Puerto Montt | 5000 | 3½ |
| Santiago | 20,600 | 12 |
| Temuco | 3800 | 2¼ |
| Valparaíso/Viña del Mar | 27,400 | 13 |
| Villarrica | 4500 | 1¾ |
8Getting Around
To and from the airport, Transfer Aeropuerto Valdivia (%63-222-5533; CH$4000) provides an on-demand minibus service, but the most economical way is catching any Buses Pirihueico bus to Panguipulli from the bus terminal, which will drop you at the airport (CH$1000, 6:30am to 8:35pm). A taxi from the bus terminal costs CH$20,000 (an Uber runs CH$12,500 to CH$17,500 from the center). The trip takes about 30 minutes.
From the bus terminal to Plaza de la República, head to the south end of the terminal and up the escalators to the 3rd-floor exit onto Carlos Anwandter, where you can take any green or yellow colectivo (CH$500 by day, CH$600 at night) or bus 3 (CH$450), which will drop you on Chacabuco, one block north of the plaza.
For Niebla, take colectivos (cnr Yungay & Chacabuco; CH$1000) or micro 20 (Carampangue; CH$600). From the Muelle Niebla, small boats go back and forth to Corral every 20 minutes or so from 8am to 9pm (CH$800) and ply the waters to Isla Mancera every 20 minutes a few times daily (CH$300; 9am, 12:30pm, 2:30pm and 5:30pm Monday to Saturday, 10:30am, noon and 4pm Sunday). There is also a larger ferry that can carry cars to Corral (every hour, 8am to midnight).
Hertz (%63-221-8316; Carampangue 488; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat), among other agencies, rents cars in the city.
Around Valdivia
Southwest of Valdivia, where the Río Valdivia and the Río Tornagaleones join the Pacific, lie several 17th-century Spanish fortifications that are well worth a visit on pleasant day trips from the city. Niebla, especially, is pleasant – the coastal town emits a northern California beach-town vibe and is an easy escape from Valdivia. In the other direction, 35km northwest of Valdivia in Curiñanco, a fine assortment of Valdivian rainforest is protected at the 80-hectare Parque Punta Curiñanco, which makes for a day of hiking.
1Sights
The Spanish forts at Corral, Niebla and Isla Mancera are the big draw here. The largest and most intact is the Castillo de Corral, consisting of the Castillo San Sebastián de la Cruz (1645), the gun emplacements of the Batería de la Argolla (1764) and the Batería de la Cortina (1767). Fuerte Castillo de Amargos, a half-hour walk north of Corral, lurks on a crag above a small fishing village and has well-preserved gun emplacements.
Located on the north side of the river, the broken ramparts of Castillo de la Pura y Limpia Concepción de Monfort de Lemus (aka Fuerte de Niebla; 1671) are the oldest remaining ruins. It allowed Spanish forces to catch potential invaders in a crossfire. Isla Mancera’s Castillo San Pedro de Alcántara (1645) guarded the confluence of the Valdivia and the Tornagaleones, and later it became the residence of the military governor.
Parque Punta Curiñanco (%cell 9-8355-5938; www.codeff.cl/area-punta-curinanco; Curiñanco; adult/child CH$3000/1000, in winter CH$2000/1000; h9am-7pm Dec-Mar, 10am-6pm Apr-Nov, closed Mon), 35km northwest of Valdivia in Curiñanco, is a unique piece of Valdivian rainforest featuring four types of subforest within its boundaries. It’s great for hiking and there are spectacular ocean views and a long, beautiful beach. Keep an eye out for the Darwin’s frogs; they look conspicuously like an autumn leaf.
To get here from Valdivia, grab a bus marked Curiñanco (CH$1300, 45 minutes) to the left of the bridge to Isla Teja (on the Valdivia side) or from the bus terminal and take it all the way the end of the road. The entrance to the park is hidden behind two private properties, marked by a red sign about 20m or so from the end of the road, on your left just next to a downtrodden bus stop. Follow the signs 100m or so to the entrance – there’s a little house where a man will open the gate to the park and take your entry fee.
8Getting There & Away
The tours that leave from Puerto Fluvial in Valdivia would like you to believe they are the only way to get to the fortifications, but there’s a much more economic alternative: colectivos (leaving from the corner of Chacabuco and Yungay; CH$1000, 20 minutes) or micro 20 (CH$600, 30 minutes).
From the new Terminal de Pasajeros de Niebla (T-350), passenger ferries go back and forth to Corral (CH$1000, 30 minutes) every 30 minutes from 8am to 8:20pm; and to Isla Mancera (CH$1300, 20 minutes) five times daily (Monday to Saturday at 9:30am, 11am, 1pm, 4:40pm and 6pm; and Sunday at 10:30am, 11:30am, 3pm, 5pm and 6pm). A car ferry for Corral, leaving from from a separate port (www.mtt.gob.cl; T-350; passenger/car CH$730/4620) a few hundred meters northeast of the new terminal, departs every two hours from 7am to 11pm in January and February; four times daily the rest of the year (7:15am, 1:15pm, 5:15pm and 7:15pm).