Chiloé
Ancud
Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil
Quemchi
Isla Mechuque
Dalcahue
Isla Quinchao
Peninsula de Rilán
Castro
Parque Nacional Chiloé
Parque Tantauco
Quellón
Chiloé
Why Go?
When the early-morning fog shrouds misty-eyed and misunderstood Chiloé, it’s immediately apparent something different this way comes. Isla Grande de Chiloé is South America’s fifth-largest island and is home to a fiercely independent, seafaring people.
Immediately apparent are changes in architecture and cuisine: tejuelas, the famous Chilote (of Chiloé) wood shingles; palafitos (houses mounted on stilts along the water’s edge); the iconic wooden churches (16 of which are Unesco World Heritage sites); and the renowned meat, potato and seafood stew, curanto. A closer look reveals a rich spiritual culture that is based on a distinctive mythology of witchcraft, ghost ships and forest gnomes.
All of the above is weaved among landscapes that are wet, windswept and lush, with undulating hills, wild and remote national parks, and dense forests, giving Chiloé a distinct flavor unique in South America.
When to Go
- Feb The clearest skies of the year in Chiloé, but you’ll still need a poncho.
- Sep–Mar Penguins breed in Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil.
- Dec–May Best time of year to catch endangered blue whales off Chiloé’s northwest coast.
Best Places to Eat
A Cazador
Best Places to Stay
Chiloé Highlights
1 Unesco-listed Wooden Churches Genuflecting in awe at the Chiloé’s churches.
2 Muelle de las Almas Trekking across Chiloé’s landscape to the mythological Dock of Souls.
3 Chepu Taking a dawn kayak trip through a misty sunken forest.
4 Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil Spying Magellanic and Humboldt penguins in the wild.
5 Parque Nacional Chiloé Hiking along Chiloé’s raging and wild west coast.
6 Isla Mechuque Wandering the idyllic mini-island microcosm of Chiloé.
7 Peninsula de Rilán Sleeping in remote luxury at this picturesque peninsula.
8 Parque Tantauco Losing yourself on a hut-to-hut trek through untamed temperate rainforest.
9 Curanto Tearing into a bowl of Chiloé’s most traditional dish.
History
The islands were first populated by the Chono people, who were pushed toward the Archipelago de Aisén as the Mapuche invaded from the north. The Spaniards took full possession of Chiloé in 1567, some five years after a smallpox epidemic killed much of the indigenous population. A measles epidemic in 1580 further weakened the native influence.
During the wars of independence, Chiloé was a Spanish stronghold; the Spanish resisted criollo attacks in 1820 and 1824 from heavily fortified Ancud, until their final defeat in 1826. Chiloé itself stayed off the radar until the 1850s when its proximity to the new Puerto Montt gave the islands increasing commercial importance. It took another century to establish a road running the length of the main island. Fishing was and is the main industry, but is now heavily dominated by salmon and shellfish farming.
8Getting There & Away
The most popular route for travelers is the frequent ferry between Pargua, on the mainland 62km southwest of Puerto Montt, and Chacao, a small town of little interest at the northeast corner of Isla Grande de Chiloé, but that is all set to change over the coming years. Construction on the controversial Puente Chacao, a 2.6km suspension bridge – the largest of its kind in Latin America – linking Chiloé with the mainland, has been postponed several times but may be operational in the next decade. Until then, bus fares to/from the mainland include the half-hour ferry crossing. LATAM Airlines operates one daily flight from Santiago to Castro via Puerto Montt five days a week (four in low season).
Ancud
%65 / POP 40,800
Ancud was once a rather wealthy place with gracious buildings, palafitos (stilt houses) and a railway line. But the earthquake of 1960 decimated the town. Today, version 2.0, though rather quaint, is a sprawling city only peppered with occasional native architecture leading down to the spectacular waterfront – which, by the time you read this, should have been made over to include bike paths, a pedestrian pier, and multiple seating plazas.
But Ancud’s coup is its natural surroundings, and for those who want a taste of Chiloé but don’t have time to head as far south as Castro, its spectacular nearby coastline, excellent seafood, cozy hostels and proximity to Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil make it an easy-to-digest base for exploring a lesser visited corner of Chiloé.
1Sights
oCentro de Visitantes Inmaculada ConcepciónMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.iglesiasdechiloe.cl; Errázuriz 227; suggested donation CH$500; 
h9:30am-7pm Jan & Feb, 9:30am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri Mar-Nov)
Don’t think about visiting Chiloé’s Unesco-listed churches without first stopping in at this excellent museum housed in the former Convento Inmaculada Concepción de Ancud (1875). It’s home to wooden scale models of all 16 churches, which show the workings of the intricate interior woodwork of each.
You’ll also find an interesting museum shop, where you can pick up the free bilingual La Ruta de Las Iglesias Chiloé visitors’ guide. If you dig Chiloé churches, the foundation has produced a good coffee-table book, which is also available in the shop.
oMuseo Regional de Ancud Aurelio Bórquez CanobraMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Museo Chilote; www.museoancud.cl; Libertad 370; h10am-7:30pm Jan & Feb, 10am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun Mar-Dec) 
F
This worthwhile museum, casually referred to as Museo Chiloé, offers interesting displays tracking the history of the island, including a full-sized replica of the Ancud, which sailed the treacherous fjords of the Strait of Magellan to claim Chile’s southernmost territories; and a massive intact blue-whale skeleton.
Fuerte San AntonioFORTRESS
(cnr Lord Cochrane & Baquedano; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat & Sun) F
During the wars of independence, Fuerte San Antonio was Spain’s last Chilean outpost. At the northwest corner of town, late-colonial cannon emplacements look down on the harbor from the early-19th-century remains of the fortress. There’s a somewhat-secluded beach, Playa Gruesa, behind the north wall.
TTours
Austral AdventuresOUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-262-5977; www.austral-adventures.com; Av Costanera 904) 
S
This is the go-to agency for English-speaking tours from Ancud, including extended nature-centric jaunts to see penguins, kayaking on the bay and bird-watching – always with a fierce eco-slant and more elaborate than the cookie-cutter tours. US owner Britt Lewis is impossibly nice and knowledgeable.
4Sleeping
o13 Lunas HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-262-2106; www.13lunas.cl; Los Carrera 855; dm from CH$11,500, s/d 22,000/30,000; 
p
i
W) S
The best option for migrating backpackers, 13 Lunas is situated directly opposite the main bus terminal. Owner Claudio and his multicultural staff are young, enthusiastic and speak English, while the hostel itself oozes coziness with bright hardwoods, plenty of natural light, hotel-standard bathrooms, a grassy lawn and a wonderful terrace with views. Solar-heated water and active recycling give it an eco-edge.
Hostal LluhayGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-262-2656; www.hostal-lluhay.cl; Lord Coch-rane 458; s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$22,000/38,000/45,000; piW)
Awash in antique kitsch and character, Lluhay wins over visitors with its very welcoming owners. Don’t be surprised if they start feeding you delicious homemade küchen (sweet, German-style cakes), pouring you cocktails by the fireplace, or knocking out a few bars on the piano.
Camping Arena GruesaCAMPGROUND$
(%65-262-3428; www.hotelarenagruesa.cl; Av Costanera Norte 290; campsites per person CH$7000, s/d incl breakfast from CH$38,000/49,000; iW)
City campsites don’t get much better views than this one, located atop a bluff on the north side of town. The area is grassy and decently maintained, with electricity, hot water at night, tiny refugios (rustic shelters) for rainy days and bright, surprisingly clean bathrooms. It’s also a minute’s walk to the beach.
Chil-HuéGUESTHOUSE$$
(%65-262-5977; www.chil-hue.com; Playa Lechagua; r from CH$70,000, casitas CH$110,000; W)
For those with extra pesos and a penchant for solitude, this is the place for you in Ancud. Your hosts are Britt from Austral Adventures and his wife, Sandra – a Peruvian gourmet chef (who will also cook you dinner for CH$15,000) and Ashtanga yoga instructor – who have built just three lodgings on their property on an isolated beach 6km south of Ancud.
On offer are two stylish apartments with kitchenettes (pluck your organic greens straight from the adjacent garden), but sea views are obstructed. In the isolated beachfront casita, however, it’s just you and the dolphins in the bay. This remote and rustic getaway is only for certain souls. You know who you are.
Hostal Mundo NuevoHOSTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-262-8383; www.hostalmundonuevo.com; Costanera 748; dm/s/d/q CH$14,000/$39,000/52,000/64,000, s/d without bathroom CH$29,000/42,000; iW)
This Swiss-owned midrange hotel masquerading as a hostel is just a hop, skip and a jump from the Cruz del Sur bus station. It boasts postcard-perfect sunset views over the Bay of Ancud from a big, comfortable bench on its naturally lit front porch, and also from its 13 privates (including two new, larger rooms) and a six-bed dorm.
The outdoor hot tub (from CH$12,000 for up to eight guests) is well worth reserving a few hours in advance. A new restaurant was in the works when we visited.
5Eating & Drinking
UnimarcSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.unimarc.cl; Prat 318; h9am-9:30pm)
Ancud’s best supermarket.
Café AmaranthineCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.amaranthinechiloe.com; Lord Cochrane 412; mains CH$4500-5500; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat; W) S
Well-regarded Peruvian chef Sandra Echegaray opened this drop-dead adorable cafe, Chiloé’s first organic and vegetarian option, in 2017. Rustic-chic touches like colorful wrought-iron chairs and mismatched retro couches have upped the cutesy vibe ante, and the wonderful coffees, teas, smoothies and more substantial plates (quinoa burgers, veggie pichangas, maqui berry cheesecake) are a nice change from Chilean staples.
Café BlancoCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cafeblancoancud; Ramírez 359; mains CH$3700-6900; h9:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 4-7pm Sun; W)
A very welcome addition to the Ancud dining scene, this cozy Castro transplant occupies a colorful and rambling old Chilote home and is a requisite stop for sandwiches, salads, and sweet-tooth-satiating cakes and pies (CH$1500 to CH$3100). Locally produced provisions are available in the organic shop as well.
Retro’s PubPUB FOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/retros.pub; Pudeto 44; mains CH$5000-13,000, pizzas CH$11,000; h11am-4am Mon-Fri, 6pm-4am Sat; W)
Having reopened in a grittier space near Plaza de Armas in 2016, Ancud’s most timeless bar is divey in all the right ways. The menu is chock-full of Tex-Mex, burritos the size of Kansas, killer burgers on sourdough-reminiscent buns, stone-cooked pizzas and more. Everything is made from scratch.
The friendly home-brewing owner also makes a good Trappist-style Belgian Tripel with porters, stouts and IPAs on the way.
Cocinerías Mercado GastronómicoMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Dieciocho; meals CH$2500-7000; h9am-9pm)
Tucked away off Dieciocho is a series of down-home market stalls dishing up cazuela (meat and vegetable stew), chupe (fish casserole) and set lunch menus for around CH$2500 to CH$7000.
El Embrujo de ChiloéCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Maipú 650; sandwiches CH2500-3200; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat; W)
This cozy cafe is always packed with discerning locals, sipping decent cappuccinos coffee (CH$1000-CH$2800) or catching a sandwich on the cheap. There’s a playful witchcraft undercurrent and it feels more Chiloé than elsewhere.
Club Social BaquedanoBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Baquedano 469; beers CH$2000-3000; h1pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
Ancud’s classiest bar is housed in a restored shingled Chilote house that once hosted a social club of the same name in the 1960s and ’70s. There’s craft beer on tap – Cuello Negro and Kross – and Victorian-like sofas to lounge on.
DON’T MISS
CURANTO: CHILOÉ’S CULINARY COUP
No words can quite prepare you for the first moment a piping hot bowl of curanto lands on the table in front of you, but ‘What did I get myself into?’ comes to mind. Rest assured, however, your slack jaw will come in handy when it’s time to shove all that food in. Chiloé’s most traditional dish is of unknown origins, but historically its preparation harks back to the earth ovens of Polynesian culinary ancestry. Traditionally curanto was made by heating up stones in a hole in the ground until they crackled, then directly piling on shellfish, pork and chicken, followed by nalca (a rhubarb-like plant) or pangue (a native plant of Chile) leaves and damp cloths before the whole shebang was covered in dirt and grass and left to simmer for nearly two hours. Locals still prepare it this traditional way, called curanto al hoyo, in a few places around the island, including Restaurant Quetalmahue (www.restaurantequetalmahue.es.tl; W-20, Quetalmahue; curanto CH$10,000; h11am-8pm, to 10pm Jan-Feb) in Quetalmahue, a small fishing village 12km from Ancud (high season only unless you are a big group with advance reservations). If you can’t make it there (curanto ready from 2pm to 4pm; a taxi runs a negotiable CH$15,000 or so round-trip from Ancud with waiting), the next best thing – minus the pit and dirt – is Kuranton (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Prat 94; curanto CH$8000; h11am-8pm; W) in Ancud and El Chejo in Quemchi.
7Shopping
KelgwoCLOTHING
(%cell 9-8424-3110; Costanera Norte 200; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri)
In a nod to Chiloé’s age-old weaving traditions, this boutique housed in a crumbling home in Arena Gruesa sells modern, naturally dyed high-quality woven coats, dresses, scarfs, shawls, tops, wall hangings and framed art.
Mercado MunicipalMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Prat, cnr Dieciocho & Libertad; h8:30am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6:30pm Sun)
Has an abundance of craft stalls.
8Information
Banco de Chile ATM (Libertad 621) ATM.
Conaf (%65-262-7520; www.conaf.cl; Errázuriz 317; h8:30am-12:50pm & 2:30-5:30pm Mon & Wed, 8:30am-12:50pm & 2:30-6:30pm Fri) The Ancud office of Chile’s National Forest Corporation can assist with info on national parks.
CorreosChile (www.correos.cl; cnr Pudeto & Blanco Encalada; h9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-12:30pm Sat)
Hospital de Ancud (www.hospitalancud.gov.cl; Almirante Latorre 301; h24hr) Located at the corner of Pedro Montt.
Informaciones Turísticas (www.muniancud.cl; Ruta 5; h10am-5pm) Helpful municipal tourism office at the entrance to town.
Sernatur (%65-262-2800; www.sernatur.cl; Libertad 669; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-7pm Sat & Sun Dec-Feb, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4:30pm Sat & Sun Mar-Nov; W) This is the only formal national tourist office on the island. Expect very helpful staff, brochures, town maps, lists of accommodations and wi-fi.
8Getting There & Away
Ancud has three bus terminals. Cruz del Sur (%65-262-2265; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; h6am-11pm Mon-Sat, 7am-11pm Sun) owns and operates the main Terminal de Buses (cnr Los Carreras & Cavada; h6am-11pm Mon-Sat, 7am-11pm Sun), which offers the most departures to Chiloé’s more southerly towns, with departures around every hour, and to cities on the Panamericana to the north (including two daily departures to Santiago at 7pm and 7:35pm). It’s a five-minute walk from the waterfront and downtown. A taxi to/from the terminal to Av Costanera in downtown costs CH$2000. Queilen Bus (%65-262-1140; www.queilenbus.cl) operates out of the old Terminal Municipal (Anibal Pinto 1200), 1.5km from the center.
Cruz del Sur buses go to Punta Arenas every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 8:30am. Queilen Bus heads out Monday at 7:30am. However, travelers going to most southerly regions beyond Chiloé and to Bariloche, Argentina, will do better to take buses from Puerto Montt.
Sample starting fares in high season are as follows (prices can fluctuate with company and the quality of the bus/classes):
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Castro | 2000 | 1½ |
| Concepción | 23,000 | 12 |
| Dalcahue | 1700 | ¾ |
| Osorno | 6200 | 4 |
| Puerto Montt | 4500 | 2 |
| Puerto Varas | 5000 | 1½ |
| Punta Arenas | 45,000 | 32 |
| Quellón | 4000 | 3 |
| Santiago | 30,000 | 16 |
| Temuco | 11,000 | 8 |
| Valdivia | 8500 | 6 |
Chiloé’s more rural destinations to the east, as well as afternoon buses to Chepu, the gateway to the northern end of Parque Nacional Chiloé, are serviced by buses that leave from the small Terminal Inter-Rural (%cell 9-6301-9912; Colo Colo 860). The schedule is posted near the bathroom (if not, ask at the administration office); simply buy tickets on the bus.
To visit Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil on public transport, Buses Mar Brava (Terminal Inter-Rural) heads to nearby Pumillahue (CH$2000), at 1pm and 5pm (Monday to Friday) and 1pm (Saturday). Buses Pumillahue (%cell 9-8379-2328, cell 9-9952-1984; Terminal Inter-Rural) heads out at noon and 4pm (Monday, Wednesday and Friday), 4pm (Tuesday and Thursday) and 1pm (Sunday). The bus will drop you at Piedra Run crossroads, from where it is a 2km walk to the beach (follow the paved road). In low season, services drop off substantially.
8Getting Around
Ancud is small and mostly manageable on foot. Further flung, uphill destinations like the Terminal Municipal can be reached via colectivos CH$400 between 7am and 9pm, CH$500 at night and on Sunday) on Dieciocho or by grabbing a taxi (%65-262-2577; cnr Pudeto & Maipú) (CH$2000).
WORTH A TRIP
CHEPU
Previously difficult to access and lacking infrastructure, Chepu, the northern sector of Parque Nacional Chiloé, 38km southwest of Ancud, remains a sanctuary of pristine beauty. You’ll find stunning coastline and rivers and 128 bird species. Bring supplies – it’s rural!
Chepu’s masterpiece is a breathtaking spot overlooking the confluence of three rivers and 140 sq km of sunken forest (a phenomena created by by the 1960 Valdivia earthquake, which sunk the ground some 2m, allowing salt water to enter the area and kill the trees). It’s best seen at dawn on a serene kayak trip offered by recommended ecotourism agency Chiloé Natural on overnight trips from Castro (CH$265,000 per person including lodging/meals).
Don’t skip Muelle de la Luz (per person incl transport CH$25,000; h9am-7pm Sat-Sun), a larger and newer version of Chiloé’s mystical and famous Muelle de las Almas, reached via a 45-minute boat ride from Muelle Anguay near Refugio Lugar de Encuentro in Chepu. Attractively perched on a pier dropping off where the Chepu river meets the ocean, the dock is engrossing, but it lacks the strong mythological background of Almas.
Stay at Alihuen (%cell 9-7489-9510; www.travelchiloe.com; d CH$30,000; W) S, where Flemish chef and former guide Jeroen (locals call him Yuna) runs a fiercely sustainable farm (rainwater catchment, organic greenhouse) near his cozy, cabin-in-the-woods-like Cabaña Reciclada, a two-bedroom recycled-corrugated-iron cabin. This tucked-away escape features a fully equipped, pinewood-accented kitchen, washing machine and outdoor BBQ area. Meals (breakfast CH$5000, dinner CH$16,000) teeter between Belgian and Chilote tradition. Agroturismo Chepu (%cell 9-9635-0226, cell 9-8523-6960; www.agroturismochepu.cl; Camino Ancud-Castro, Km 25; r with/without bathroom per person incl dinner CH$25,000/22,000) offers lodgings on a working farm.
Bus Juan Carlos Silva has one 4pm departure from Ancud’s Terminal Inter-Rural on Monday, Wednesday and Friday for Chepu. The buses returns to Ancud at 5:30pm (CH$2000, one hour); flag it along the main road.
Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil
Three islands off the coast of Puñihuil, on the Pacific Ocean, are breeding grounds for Magellanic and the near-extinct Humboldt penguins, and a haven for blue whales. The entire area is protected as a natural monument and a no-fishing zone is enforced in the area. The best time of year to go for the penguins is when they are breeding, from September to March (you might otherwise be out of luck). Several travel agencies in Ancud organize excursions to the site.
Boat trips to view the penguins is the main event. Ecoturismo Puñihuil (%cell 9-8317-4302; www.pinguineraschiloe.cl; Puñihuil; penguin tour adult/child CH$3500/700) represents three of the seven licensed penguin-viewing operators and runs 20 or so trips per day with three upgraded local fishing boats between 10am and 6pm to take tourists out for a closer (but quick) look at the cute fightless birds (if they’re full, walk on down the beach for other options). All-weather gear is provided. Boats can fill up in high season – it’s best to book ahead at Austral Adventures in Ancud. When weather permits, Austral also runs whale-watching and sea-lion trips here too.
8Getting There & Away
From Ancud’s Terminal Inter-Rural, Buses Mar Brava heads to Pumillahue (CH$2000), near Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil, at 1pm and 5pm (Monday to Friday) and 1pm (Saturday). Buses Pumillahue makes the run at noon and 4pm (Monday, Wednesday and Friday), 4pm (Tuesday and Thursday) and 1pm (Sunday). The bus will drop you at Piedra Run crossroads, from which it is a 2km walk to the beach (follow the paved road). In low season services drop off substantially. Buses return about 75-minutes after their Ancud departure.
A round trip taxi from Ancud including wait time is CH$20,000.
Quemchi
%065 / POP 9102
On a clear summer day, the snowcapped mountains of southern Chile loom in the distance over misty Quemchi, topping off an already impressive view from the sea wall of this sleepy little town. Quemchi’s waterfront is an ideal place to lose yourself for a day, strolling along the bay and passing the hours in one of Chiloé’s best restaurants – El Chejo. Quemchi has the highest change in tides (7m) on the island, which makes for a surreal scene of beached fishing boats while the water’s out.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hospedaje CostaneraGUESTHOUSE$
(%65-269-1230; ray.paredes.d@gmail.com; Diego Bahamonde 141; r per person without bathroom CH$10,000, s/d from CH$20,000/25,000; pW)
It isn’t the only game in town, but it boasts the best sea views (though some are obstructed by electrical wires) and a prime location, 50m from El Chejo. Ask for rooms one, two or five to get sea glimpses, but avoid room three (there’s no room for luggage).
There are also a few cabañas around the back.
oEl ChejoCHILEAN$
(%65-269-1490; Diego Bahamonde 251; meals CH$4000-9800; h9am-11pm; W)
A family-run treasure, El Chejo offers honest food prepared with love by a family that fawns over its patrons. There’s no menu – you get what’s good that day. That could mean starting with the excellent empanada de centolla (a fried pastry filled with king crab) followed by a choice of several locally caught fish, washed down with a sampling of Chilote fruit liqueurs (try the murtado, a medicinal berry).
Curanto al hoyo (curanto prepared in the traditional way in an earth oven) is served Sundays in high season (CH$7500).
6Drinking & Nightlife
Barlovento’sBREWPUB
(Yungay 08; h9am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 2am Fri & Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; W)
This restaurant and brewhouse with sea views is Quemchi’s only recommendable nightlife option, with cervezas artesanales brewed in-house. The food centers around what’s fresh that day (meals CH$2000-7000) – empanadas, congrio, salmon – and service is friendly.
8Information
You’ll find a fussy Banco de Chile ATM (Yunguy) at the town library, halfway between El Chejo and the Terminal de Transporte.
8Getting There & Away
Rural buses make the trip to Ancud and Castro (CH$1500, 1½ hours to either destination) every 20 to 45 minutes from 6:40am to 7pm Monday to Friday. Services drop off on Saturday and significantly on Sunday. Buses leave from the Terminal de Transporte (Yungay) at the end of the road, where there is a maze of schedules posted.
Isla Mechuque
%065 / POP 500
The further you venture into Chiloé’s smaller islands, the more it feels as if you’ve traveled back in time. Isla Mechuque is only 45 minutes by boat from Tenaún, but feels like it’s caught in a bygone era. A part of the Islas Chauques (considered Chiloé’s most beautiful island chain), Mechuque is small but stunning. There are two museums, tejuela (Chilote wood shingle) homes, a splendid viewpoint, a picturesque bridge, famous curanto al hoyo and palafitos – it’s like a mini Chiloé offering all of the larger archipelago’s attractions condensed down into an area that makes for an easy and memorable day trip.
Most people visit Isla Mechuque on a day trip from Castro. From a handful of simple guesthouses, Hospedaje Maria Humilde (%cell 9-9012-6233; r per person without bathroom CH$15,000) is the pick of the bunch.
Several boats make the trip from Dalcahue’s fishing dock each week. There are usually departures on Tuesday at 1pm, on Wednesday and Thursday at 3:30pm and on Saturday at noon, returning from Isla Mechuque on Wednesday at 7am and on Thursday at 8:15am but the schedule is always changing, so it’s best to check with the Alcadia de Mar in Dalcahue or with the boats directly. Fares range between CH$2000 and CH$500 depending on the boat. The island is also reachable from Tenaún; contact Hospedaje Mirella.
The easiest way to explore Mechuque is on a day tour with Turismo Pehuén in Castro. In January and February there is a fixed tour every Saturday at 10am; other times of year by reservation.
Dalcahue
%065 / POP 8000
In Huilliche, Dalcahue means ‘Dalca’s Place’ and it is named after the dalcas (boats) constructed by Chiloé’s first inhabitants. It’s a feisty town facing the inner sea of the island and is famous for its vibrant Sunday crafts fair and Unesco-listed church. It’s also the jumping-off point for Isla Quinchao, one of archipelagic Chile’s more accessible and interesting islands, and Isla Mechugue.
Dalcalhue’s revamped waterfront – with pleasant seating and a boardwalk – was unveiled in 2017.
1Sights
Crafts FairMARKET
(Pedro Montt; h9am-6pm Dec-Feb, 9am-5pm Sun Mar-Nov)
You’ll find the island’s most authentic arts and crafts here, dominated by sweaters, socks, and hats woven from oveja (wool) and dyed with natural pigments made from roots, leaves and iron-rich mud. It’s open daily but is at its best on Sundays, when all the surrounding islands participate.
Nuestra Señora de Los DoloresCHURCH
(Plaza de Armas)
Founded in 1849, this church is another one of the island’s 16 protected by Unesco. A complete restoration was finished in 2015, which gave everything a shiny new glow – some say not for the better.
WORTH A TRIP
TENAÚN
Tiny Tenaún, 37km northeast from Dalcahue, is rural, but there is a very compelling reason to visit. The stunning blue Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Patrocinio (Galverino Riveros; h11am-6pm) is easily one of the most striking of the Chiloé’s Unesco-listed wooden churches; its three azure towers will redefine your definition of clergy architecture. There’s not a lot else to see and do, but if you’re looking for the road less travelled – even though the road is paved now – Tenaún tempts with rural Chilote personality and a quirky seafaring ethos.
Hospedaje Mirella (%cell 9-9647 6750; www.chiloeturismorural.cl/web/archivos/103; Galvarino Riveros; r with/without bathroom incl breakfast CH$16,000/14,000; iW), located next to the church and part of the Agroturismo Network, makes it worth staying in Tenaún. The indomitable Mirella is an exceptional cook and is serious about making sure her guests enjoy the multicourse meals she prepares (CH$5000 to CH$12,000). She does curanto al hoyo, great seafood empanadas, cazuelas or whatever fresh catch the fishers bring in that day. Mirella also can arrange boats to Isla Mechuque (CH$60,000 return, 45 minutes, minimum four people). Calling ahead is always a good idea.
On weekdays, there are frequent buses between Castro and Tenaún (CH$1600, 1½ hours, 7:15am to 7pm), fewer on weekends – all stopping in Dalcahue (CH$1200, 40 minutes). To Ancud, Buses Ramoncito (%cell 9-9481-6079) operates two buses Monday to Friday at 8:30am and at 3:30pm (CH$2300, 1½ hours) via Quemchi (CH$1000, 30 minutes). Buses depart from the unmissable yellow-with-red-trim Casona Bahamonde Werner bus stop at the corner of Av Quarto Centenario and Av Galverino Riveros.
4Sleeping
Hostal LanitaGUESTHOUSE$
(%65-264-2020; www.lanitahostal.blogspot.com; O’Higgins 50B; r without bathroom per person incl breakfast from CH$12,500; pW)
A great-value B&B just a block from the sea. There’s a massive kitchen for guest use (lunch and dinner only) and shared-bathroom-only rooms are clean with comfortable beds and cozy down comforters. Ana, a friendly Valparaiso transplant, whips up a great little breakfast.
Hostal LüfkümenHOSTAL$
(%cell 9-9000-6709; www.hostaluftkumen.cl; Ramón Freire 121; s/d incl breakfast CH$20,000/40,000; pW)
This main-street guesthouse is in tip-top shape (spit-shined floors, hardwood walls) and, while it may lack local character, it offers good value for money. The single rooms with private bathroom, which drop to CH$15,000 in low season, are about as good as it gets if sharing bathrooms is not your thing.
Hostal Encanto PatagonGUESTHOUSE$
(%65-264-1651; www.hostalencantopatagon.blogspot.com; Freire 26; dm per person CH$10,000, r without bathroom per person CH$12,000; piW)
A move from a rambling 100-year-old Chilote home chock-full of antiquated charm to a far less cinematic ranch means Encanto Patagon’s atmosphere took a hit, but the simple rooms – and, more importantly, the excellent home-cooked dinners of your host, Cecilia (CH$3000) – make this a good option at the right price.
Refugio de NavagantesBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%65-264-1128; www.refugiodenavegantes.cl; San Martín 165; d CH$100,000-150,000; p
aiW)
This stylish new boutique on Plaza de Armas is the best hotel in town. The five rooms are extra spacious, with cozy beds draped in local throws, and all come with a terrace, modern bathrooms and quality local artwork. The best room frames exquisite church views. The adjacent cafe is also the town’s best.
5Eating
oLa Cocinería DalcahueCHILEAN$
(www.cocineriasdalcahue.blogspot.cl; Pedro Montt; mains CH$3000-8000; h9am-7pm)
Tucked behind the crafts market, this collection of stalls – run by grandmotherly types who dish up curanto and cazuela, pound out milcao (potato bread) and dole out Chilote sweets – is Dalcalhue’s don’t-miss. Locals prefer No 8 (Camila – Donde Lula), as her cazuela with beef and luche (algae) is outstanding – but go with your gut.
Refugio de NavegantesCAFE$
(www.refugiodenavegantes.cl; San Martín 165; snacks CH$900-4900; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun, reduced hr winter; W)
This perfectly shingled gem on the Plaza de Armas caters to Dalcahue’s bold and beautiful, who come for the town’s only serious espresso, high-quality teas, wraps and desserts. The upstairs lounge monopolizes the scene in summer.
Casita de PiedraCAFE$
(www.facebook.com/artesania.casitadepiedra; Pedro Montt 144; cakes & sandwiches CH$2200-5600; h9am-10:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun, reduced hr winter; W)
This wonderful cafe houses a very stylish crafts shop on the 1st floor (everything but the tea and essential oils are made by local artisans) and an atmospheric waterfront spot for espresso, quiche, sandwiches and great lemon meringue pie on the 2nd floor.
DalcaSEAFOOD$
(%65-264-1222; Calle Acceso Rampla; mains CH$1500-6800; h10am-11:30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5:30pm Sun; W)
Dalcahue’s top seafood restaurant plates up excellent steamed fresh fish and caldillo de mariscos (shellfish stew).
8Information
There is a BancoEstado ATM (Freire 245) on Freire near the Copec gas station.
8Getting There & Away
There is no bus terminal in Dalcahue. Buses Dalcahue runs buses to Castro (CH$800, 30 minutes) and Mocopulli (CH$600), for airport access, every 15 minutes between 7am and 8:30pm from a stop on Freire in front of Supermercado Otimarc between Henriquez and Eugenin. You can also catch buses at various points up and down the main street of Freire. Cruz del Sur (%65-264-1050; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; San Martín 102; h8:30am-1pm & 2:30-7pm Mon-Sat, 2:30-7pm Sun) has two buses per day to Ancud (CH$1700) and Puerto Montt (CH$6000) leaving at 9:10am and 3:15pm; there’s an extra 7pm departure on Sunday. Buses depart from the office on San Martín right next to the church. Buses between Castro and Tenaún (CH$1200, 40 minutes) pass here several times per day. Catch them along the main street.
Ferries for Isla Quinchao leave continuously between 6:10am and 1am. Pedestrians go free, but try and time it so you cross with an Achao-bound bus as you’ll need to be on it once you get to the other side. Cars cost CH$5000 (round trip). Boats also leave here for Isla Mechuque several days per week – the schedule is available at the Alcadia de Mar (%65-264-1570; Pedro Montt; h24hr) in the white building near the fishing dock. Fares generally cost CH$5000 per person. There are usually departures Tuesdays at 1pm, Wednesday and Thursday at 3:30pm and Saturday at noon, but it’s always changing, so it’s best to check with the Alcadia or with the boat captains directly:
Doña Luisa (%cell 9-9376-4088)
Doña Luisa II (%cell 9-9444-0123, cell 9-9647-1610)
Isabel (%cell 9-9647-0948)
Don José H (%cell 9-9146-6548)
Isla Quinchao
%065 / POP 9203
The elongated island of Quinchao, easily accessed via a short ferry crossing from Dalcahue, is a hilly patchwork of pasturelands punctuated by small villages. A good road runs the length of the island and carries you through the island’s most popular destinations, Curaco de Vélez and Achao. On a clear day, you have spectacular views to Chiloé to the west and the snowcapped mountains of Northern Patagonia to the southeast.
Curaco de Vélez
%065 / POP 3403
An unexpected treasure lies in wait in the form of lovely Curaco de Vélez, the first town you come to along the main road from the ferry dock on Isla Quinchao. A superbly tranquil town, it’s well worth spending an afternoon strolling the streets here, taking in the fascinating two- and three-story ornately shingled wooden homes and eight traditional water mills for which the town is known. Don’t miss the underground crypt of War of the Pacific hero Galvarino Riveros Cárdenas – he’s buried right in the square!
The main reason folks come to Curaco is for the fresh oysters served in the restaurants along the undesirable waterfront. You’ll find droves of folks gobbling down Quinchao’s oversized bivalve. There is also a decent restaurant or two on and around Plaza de Armas.
Achao
%065 / POP 3452
When the early-morning fog rolls into the village of Achao, 22km southeast of Dalcahue, it can be an eerie sight, leaving no doubt you are in a remote Chilote seaside town. Though it lacks some of the indisputable charm and stillness of Curaco, Achao, too, is a worthwhile stop for its landmark church (with its spectacular interior) and outstanding architecture – not to mention stupendous views across to mainland Chile on a clear day. People from nearby islands come to Achao to sell their wares and produce, creating quite a buzz of activity along its small jetty and adjacent feria artisanal.
1Sights
oIglesia Santa María de LoretoCHURCH
(Plaza de Armas; h10am-7pm)
Achao’s 18th-century Jesuit church, on the south side of the Plaza de Armas, is Chiloé’s oldest (1740). Crowned by a 25m tower, the World Heritage site has alerce shingles; the whole structure is held together by wooden pegs rather than nails. The church has been slowly restored, with new wood juxtaposing the old, but its restoration has remained faithful to the original design.
Don’t miss the stunning interior – it’s like no church you have ever seen.
Mirador Alto la PalomaVIEWPOINT
(W-59)
If you’re driving into Achao, don’t miss this cinematic viewpoint along the road just a few kilometers outside town – the whole of Achao Bay, neighboring islands and the mainland across the water to Chaitán is spectacularly laid out before you on a clear day.
Museo de AchaoMUSEUM
(cnr Delicias & Amunátegui; entry by donation; h10am-6pm Dec-Mar)
Museo de Achao highlights aspects of the Chono people of Achao and other indigenous groups in Chiloé. Wood products, weavings, stones and plants used for tinting materials are all elegantly presented with informative material (in Spanish).
4Sleeping & Eating
Hospedaje PlazaGUESTHOUSE$
(%65-266-1283; Amunátegui 20; s/d incl breakfast CH$9000/18,000, d without bathroom CH$16,000; W)
A friendly family home with eight rooms right on the plaza. It’s kind of like staying at grandma’s house.
oRestaurante El MedanSEAFOOD$
(Serrano; meals CH$2800; h12:30-4pm Mon-Sat, closed Fri Apr-Nov)
Simple El Medan has no menu – you get what’s procured fresh at the fish market across the street. Think cazuela, fried fish, paila marina (seafood stew), baked salmon and the like, with four daily-changing options available. Everything is excellent.
Mar y VelasCHILEAN, SEAFOOD$
(Serrano 2; mains CH$4500-9800; h10am-1am; W)
Overlooking the bustling jetty (and usually a thick blanket of intimidating fog) is this recommended seafood restaurant with an extensive menu. Try the house-style fish smothered in cheese, sausage and mussels.
7Shopping
Feria Municipal AchaoHANDICRAFTS
(Paseo Arturo Prat; h10am-5pm)
In a clearly half-hearted attempt at competing with Dalcahue’s excellent crafts market, Achao has built a small crafts market on the water. It’s decent enough for a variety of woolens and funky wooden tree magnets with fuzzy wool as leaves – ain’t nobody else back home gonna have that on their fridge!
Grupo Artesanal LlinguaMARKET
(%cell 9-7464-3319; cnr Serrano & Ricardo Jara; h10am-4pm Mon, Thu & Fri Nov-Feb)
The Grupo Artesanal Llingua, artisans from the nearby Isla Llingua, host a well-stocked market of crafts, including woven coffee cups, handbags and breadbaskets. It’s only open on high-season days when the ferry comes over from Isla Llingua. If you spot something you like while window-shopping at another time of the year, call the listed number for someone to (possibly) assist.
CHILOÉ’S TOP CHURCHES
Chiloé once boasted more than 150 gorgeous wooden iglesias (churches) and capillas (chapels), one of the region’s main attractions; today, some 60 or so remain, 16 of which are Unesco World Heritage sites. Most were built in a similar fashion with a single tower in the front, slanted side roofs, arched entrances and attractive wooden shingles. Some boast amazing exteriors, but the truly triumphant moment comes when you step inside – the interiors are completely unorthodox if your comparison is European or North American cathedrals. We count Achao, Castro and Tenaún among our favorites.
For tours to some of the island’s less accessible churches, contact Chiloétnico in Castro.
8Information
There is a BancoEstado ATM at the corner of Delicias and Velesque and a free wi-fi signal at the Feria Municipal Achao.
Oficina de Turismo (%65-266-1143; www.facebook.com/turismocomunaquinchao; Amunategui 18; h8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) Located on the Plaza de Armas.
8Getting There & Away
The bus terminal (cnr Miraflores & Zañartu) is a block south of the church. Buses run daily to Dalcahue (CH$1400), Castro (CH$1800) and Curaco de Velez (CH$800) every 15 to 30 minutes from 7am to 8pm. Queilen Bus (%65-266-1345; www.queilenbus.cl; h6:30-7am, 10am-1:30pm, 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10-11am Sun) also goes to Puerto Montt (CH$7000) Monday to Saturday at 7am and at 1pm Sunday. Marorl Bus (%cell 9-9905-6884) goes to Puerto Montt at 6:30am Monday to Saturday and 11am on Sunday.
Peninsula de Rilán
Chiloé’s raw beauty is everywhere, but escaping to some of the island’s more remote corners is even more poetic. The Peninsula de Rilán is home to a few far-flung top-end lodges and guesthouses that beautifully hide themselves away among the island’s remote and rugged nature.
Rilán’s Santa Maria de Rilán church (Plaza de Rilán), one of Chiloé’s Unesco-listed houses of worship, is fashioned from a potpourri of the island’s native hardwoods. Despite a recent 12-year renovation, there isn’t a ton to see, but the dramatic blue ceiling is certainly worth an Instagram moment. If the church is closed, contact Maria on 9-8875-3061.
4Sleeping
OCIO Territorial HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%65-297-1911; www.ocioterritorial.com; Huenuco; s/d from CH$249,900/333,200; pW)
A tucked-away 15-room retreat with dramatic views over the Castro fjord, this traditionally shingled getaway greets guests with a cozy fireplace lounge with a copper flume. Built to blend into the natural setting, standard rooms beckon lazy sleep-ins and all come with balconies, ecofriendly amenities and local art. High-ceilinged deluxe rooms boast Jacuzzi tubs and loft lounges.
Tierra ChiloéLODGE$$$
(%65-277-2080; www.tierrachiloe.com; Bahía Pullao, San José Playa; full-board 2-night packages s/d US$1950/3100, s/d B&B CH$560/640; p
niW
s)
This dramatic upscale shelter on the edge of Chiloé’s most important wetlands was purchased by Tierra Hotels in 2014, becoming the latest in a growing list of remote boutique lodges that includes properties in San Pedro de Atacama and Torres del Paine.
Castro
%065 / POP 41,600
If there is one place in Chiloé you could call cosmopolitan, it’s Castro, where all the idiosyncrasies and attractions of Chiloé are nicely packaged in the Big City. At times loud and boisterous like some working-class towns in Chile, the capital of the archipelago somehow retains its local Chilote character side by side with a dash of modern development, comfortable tourism infrastructure and a touch of trendiness. In recent years, Castro’s culinary scene has evolved from fast-food to foodie-frenzy and the city now boasts enough excellent restaurants to be considered a bonafide culinary destination.
Just 85km south of Ancud, the city sits on a bluff above its sheltered estuary lined with distinctive palafito houses. Located in the dead center of the island, it’s the main transportation hub and a perfect base for exploring attractions further afield.
1Sights
oIglesia San Francisco de CastroCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; San Martín; h9:30am-10pm Jan & Feb, 9:30am-12:30pm & 3:30-8:30pm Mar-Dec)
Italian Eduardo Provasoli chose a marriage of neo-Gothic and classical architecture in his design for the elaborate Iglesia San Francisco, one of Chiloé’s Unesco gems and finished in 1912 to replace an earlier church that burned down (which had replaced an even earlier church that had also burned down).
The church is an unconventional visual delight – yellow with violent and mauve trim. Inside, the varnished-wood interior is stunning. It is best to visit on a sunny day – if you are lucky enough – as the interior is more charming when illuminated by the rows of stained-glass windows.
Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Gracia de NercónCHURCH
(%cell 9-5704-3413; Nercón; hhours vary)
Just 4km south of Castro is another of Chiloe’s Unesco-recognized churches, restored in 2012. Built from cypress and larch wood between 1887 and 1888, its prominent 25m tower can be viewed from Ruta 5. Of note in the interior are an all-wood sculpture of St Michael with a demon, and columns painted to look like marble. A rudimentary landscaped garden and adjacent cemetery add to the atmosphere here; a small visitors center next door affords this church better tourism infrastructure than most.
Opening hours vary, but call Nancy the keymaster, on the number we list, who can let you in if it’s shut. Catch bus 2 (CH$350) from O’Higgins, which stops 50m from the church.
Feria Alcalde José Sandoval GomezMARKET
(Feria Yumbel; Yumbel 863; h8am-8pm, to 6pm in winter)
Castro’s well-conceived fresh market is located a bit off the beaten path but is worth a trip for its colorful architecture and wide range of island treats (fresh cheeses, local potatoes, fish etc) arranged in a very pleasant and orderly fashion. On the 2nd floor, half a dozen cocinerías serve up home-cooked meals (CH$2500 to CH$5500). Take bus 1B, 2 or 4 from the center to Galvarino Riveros.
Puente Gamboa MiradorVIEWPOINT
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Panamericana)
The east side of the bridge into town offers the best viewpoint for Palofitos Gamboa.
Museo Regional de CastroMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Esmeralda 255; h9:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat, 10:30am-1pm Sun Jan & Feb, 9:30am-1pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat Mar-Dec) F
This museum, half a block south from Plaza de Armas, houses a well-organized collection of Huilliche relics, musical instruments, traditional farm implements, Chilote wooden boat models, and exhibits on the evolution of Chiloé’s towns. Its black-and-white photographs of the 1960 earthquake help you to understand the impact of the tragic event.
TTours
oChiloétnicoADVENTURE, CULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-263-0951, cell 9-4042-1505; www.chiloetnico.cl; Los Carrera 435; h9am-8pm, reduced hr winter)
This highly recommended trilingual (fluent English and German) agency is doing the right things in the right places. It runs great mountain-biking (with e-bike options) and hiking trips to Parque Nacional Chiloé, Parque Tantauco and nearby islands; flora-and-fauna-focused nature trips; and cultural trips to some of Chiloé’s more obscure churches on the less trampled secondary islands.
Also rents camping gear and bikes.
oChiloé NaturalKAYAKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-253-4973, cell 9-6319-7388; www.chiloenatural.com; Blanco Encalada 100; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun, shoter hr in winter) S
An extremely friendly, environmentally conscious agency specializing in sea-kayak tours and outside-the-box excursions (cooking classes, knife forging). Half-/multiday trips around Castro and further afield (from CH$55,000 per person based on two people) include the magnificent kayak at dawn in Chepu (CH$265,000 per person; a Chiloé must!) and a Unesco-listed-churches tour (three days; CH$240,000 including lunch). Staff plant a tree in the name of each client.
Turismo PehuénTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-263-5254; www.turismopehuen.cl; Chacabuco 498; h9am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, shorter hr in winter)
Highly regarded agency that organizes multiday tours to nearby islands such as Mechuque (from CH$60,000 including lunch) and Parque Nacional Chiloé (from CH$55,000 including lunch). It’s also the official office for Naveira Austral in Castro.
zFestivals & Events
Festival CostumbristaCULTURAL
(hFeb)
Castro celebrates a weeklong party with folk music and dance, as well as traditional foods.
4Sleeping
Palafito WaiwenHOSTEL$
(MAP; %65-263-3888; www.palafitowaiwen.com; Riquel-me 1236; dm/s/d incl breakfast CH$15,000/$45,000/55,000; iW)
This palafito haven strikes a number of balances: affordable yet stylish, hostel-like yet family friendly. The ground floor houses two four-bed dorms with lockers, central heating and private bathrooms, a communal kitchen and seaview terrace with BBQ. Upstairs are hotel-quality private rooms hung with local art. Peppered with rescued antiques (theater seats, transistor radios), the hostel represents one of Castro’s best style-for-value ratios.
Hostal CordilleraGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-253-2247; www.hostalcordillera.cl; Barros Arana 175; s/d/tr CH$25,000/35,000/45,000, r per person without bathroom CH$15,000; iW)
Weather dragging you down? The firecracker owner at this traveler’s hub will smother you with motherly love and put a big smile on your face. You’ll get some sea views, large bathrooms (two newly renovated ones upstairs), comfy beds, electric heaters and cable TV.
Hospedaje MiradorGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-6570-5950; www.hostalelmiradorcastro.cl; Barros Arana 127; r CH$35,000, s/d without bathroom CH$15,000/25,000; hNov-Mar; piW)
One of the better Barros Arana choices, Mirador has some seaside views, fantastic bathrooms (by Chiloé standards), a welcoming atmosphere and off-site parking. A second location down the hill has all private bathrooms. No breakfast.
Palafito del MarBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-263-1622; www.palafitodelmar.cl; Pedro Montt 567; r icl breakfast from CH$60,000; W)
Of all the stylish palafito options in Castro, this minimalist, seven-room hotel along Castro’s northern stretch of palafitos boasts an important bonus: all rooms have pleasant terraces with full or partial sea views, ready for you to kick your feet up on while enjoying a bottle of Carmenere. Cozy showers and bright mañio and tepú hardwoods throughout give it a stylish edge as well.
Palafito 1326BOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-253-0053; www.palafito1326.cl; Ernesto Riquelme 1326; r incl breakfast from CH$74,000; iW)
Following a Chilote design aesthetic carved entirely from tepú and cypress woods, this palofito-style hotel has 12 smallish rooms with stylish touches like wool throws from Dalcahue. The fjord-view rooms make you feel like you’re sleeping over wetlands, and there’s a great 3rd-floor cafe with postcard-perfect views.
Palafito HostelHOSTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-253-1008; www.palafitohostel.com; Ernesto Riquelme 1210; dm/s/d incl breakfast CH$16,000/35,000/48,000; piW)
This flashpacker hostel sitting on Palafitos Gamboa revolutionized Castro when it opened in 2008 and was the catalyst for turning the city into a hip destination. You pay more for a dorm here, but the quality (and lockers) outweighs the difference, with great breakfasts, dreamy views and a cabin-cool feel throughout.
5Eating
Sanguche PatitoSANDWICHES$
(MAP; www.facebook.com/sanguchepatito/; San Martín 718; sandwiches CH$3200-2500; h1-9:30pm Mon-Sat)
There’s a whole lotta culinary love coming out of this divey sandwich joint near the municipal bus terminal. Choose your base (chicken, beef, pork, smoked pork or mushrooms), then build your own sandwich by choosing three options from a long list of 18 ingredients and nine sauces. It’s all piled on toasted bread, becoming a gastronomic revelation!
Cafe BlancoCAFE$
(MAP; www.facebook.com/cafeblancochiloe; Blanco 215; sandwiches CH$4100-5000; h9am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9:30pm Sat; W)
The newer, bigger and better of two locations on this street, this quaint cafe is a solid bet for espresso as well as sandwiches, salads or sweet-tooth-satiating cakes and pies (CH$1000 to 3000). The attached organic shop is a good place to pick up locally produced provisions.
HostalomeraCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.hostalomera.cl; Blanco Encalada 159; set menu CH$3500; h10am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; W)
This arty lunch spot offers three exceptional home-cooked set-menu choices per day, including an appetizer and juice. An à la carte menu (mains CH$4500 to CH$5500) of Chileanized pastas like ravioli with cochayuyo (an algae) and more elaborate meat and fish dishes are also available. Bar open until 3am Saturday and Sunday.
oRucalaf PutemúnFUSION$$
(%cell 9-9579-7571; www.rucalafputemun.cl; Km 3.6 de la Ruta a Rilán; mains CH$7900-12,500; h1-4pm & 7:30-10:30pm Tue-Sat, 1-4pm Sun)
In tiny Putamún (7km outside Castro on the way to the Peninsula de Rilán and Dalcahue) is one of Chiloé’s destination restaurants. In a colorful and cozy cabin-like room, scrumptious contemporary Chilean fare – excellent ceviche, merluza (hake) with pesto and dehydrated tomato, free-range escabeche-style chicken – is served by delightful staff in a rustic-refined atmosphere.
oCazadorCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-253-1770; www.facebook.com/marycanelachiloe; Ernesto Riquelme 1212; mains CH$7000-14,000; h1-3pm & 8-10pm Mon-Sat, 8-10pm Sun, shorter hr in winter; W)
Formerly known as the excellent and innovative Mar y Canela, the restaurant’s same chef – and her wine-savvy new partner – have managed to improve this groundbreaking palafito bistro which now specializes in heartier dishes and game, many of which arrive in cast-iron skillets.
Reserve ahead – it’s small. Also home to Castro’s best handicrafts shop, Pura Isla.
Restaurant TravesíaCHILEAN$$
(MAP; %65-263-0137; www.facebook.com/restaurantravesia; Lillo 188; mains CH$6000-13,000; h1-11pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; W)
Two locals (a historian and a chef) are behind Castro’s most authentic restaurant. Its lengthy menu features resurrected island recipes transformed into gourmet Chilote cuisine that leans heavily on staunchly local ingredients (algae like luche and lamilla, for example). Favorites include chanchita tentación (braised smoked pork), a loaded congrio soup (smoked pork, luche, razor clams) and murta (strawberry myrtle) sours. Cash only.
It’s smallish (chef Lorna Muñoz grew up in the house!) so reserve ahead.
MercaditoCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %65-253-3866; www.elmercaditodechiloe.cl; Pedro Montt 210; mains CH$7200-10,000; h12:30-4:40pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 2:30-4:30pm Sun; W)
This wonderfully whimsical spot is a havens for gastronomes. Creative takes calling on the wares of local farmers produce outstanding dishes, from tuna with potato and yellow-pepper puree to coriander-crusted hake with chickpea curry, as well as local oysters. Seafood isn’t served out of season and tables are set with proper Laguiole cutlery.
There’s a long list of wines and regional beers to fuel the foodie fun. Reserve ahead.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oPalafito PatagoniaCAFE
(www.facebook.com/palafitopatagonia; Pedro Montt 651; hnoon-9pm, reduced hr winter; W)
This wonderful cafe-gallery takes coffee very seriously – Intelligentsia and Blue Bottle are served, two of North America’s best, along with Santiago-roasted Lama and We Are Four – and is a pristine spot for a caffeine jolt (espresso, V60, Chemex), light bites and postcard views from its naturally lit lounge and breezy patio. It’s set along Castro’s increasingly stylish northern palafitos.
Pioneras Casa CerveceraCRAFT BEER
(www.facebook.com/pioneraschiloe; Ruta 5, Nercón; h6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)
True to its name, two pioneering local female brewers opened Castro’s first craft brewpub, a supremely cozy retreat in Nercón. The 11 varieties on tap are all brewed in-house, while the bottle menu includes US brews rarely seen in Chile (Rogue, Goose Island) and a handful of Belgians. The IPAs are a work in progress, but the imperial red ale should please connoisseurs.
Almud BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/almudbar; Serrano 325; h6:30pm-1am Tue-Thu, 7:30pm-3:30am Fri, 8:30pm-3:30am Sat)
La CafetaCOFFEE
(MAP; cnr Blanco Encalada & Esmeralda; h8am-1pm, shorter hr in winter)
A modified van running on caffeine serves some of Castro’s best espresso. The beans are Peruvian and staff can whip up all the usual drink variations.
7Shopping
Feria ArtesanalMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Lillo; h11:30am-9pm)
Castro’s waterfront Feria Artesanal is by far the island’s biggest, but be wary here – much of the merchandise is secretly imported from China, India, Peru and Ecuador. You’ll find vendors hawking a good selection of woolen ponchos and sweaters, caps, gloves, basketry and liquors.
8Information
There are numerous ATMs around the Plaza de Armas and a Banco de Chile ATM on the corner of Blanco Encalada and Serrano.
CorreosChile (www.correos.cl; O’Higgins 388; h9am-1:30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12:30pm Sat)
Hospital de Castro (www.hospitalcastro.gov.cl; Freire 852)
Conaf (%65-253-2501; www.conaf.cl; Gamboa 424; h9am-1pm & 2-5:45pm Mon-Fri) The official Chilean national-parks department has a limited amount of info in Spanish and English.
Información Turistica (%65-254-7706; www.visitchiloe.cl; Plaza de Armas; h10am-9pm Jan & Feb, to 6pm Mar-Dec) Brochures and maps.
Parque Tantauco Office (%65-263-3805; www.parquetantauco.cl; Panamericana Sur 1826; h9am-6pm Jan & Feb, to 6pm Mon-Fri Mar-Dec)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Castro’s Aerodrómo Mocopulli, located 20km north of town, has finally connected Chiloé with the rest of the country via commercial flights. LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Blanco 180; h9am-1:15pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1:15pm Sat) flies from Santiago via Puerto Montt five days a week on a varying schedule in high season (four days in low season).
BUS
Centrally located Castro is the major hub for bus traffic on Chiloé. There are two main bus terminals. The rural station, Terminal de Buses Municipal (San Martín), has the most services to smaller destinations around the island and some long-distance services. Buses to Mocopulli (CH$800), Dalcahue (CH$800), Chonchi (CH$800), Isla Quinchao (CH$1800) and Tenaún (CH$1600) all leave from here. Queilen Bus (%65-263-2594; www.queilenbus.cl) and an office representing Cruz del Sur and others also operates out of here to most destinations of importance, including Punta Arenas (daily at 6:20am December to March, Mondays only outside summer).
Buses Ojeda (%cell 9-9887-4129) and Union Express (%cell 9-6668-3531) offer the most departures to Cucao and Parque Nacional Chiloé on the west coast, with 20 per day between them (CH$200, 7:45am to 8pm). Sit on the right side for the most outstanding views of Lago Cucao. Buses Ojeda also runs a daily trip to Muelle de las Almas (CH$7000 return, 10:30am, 1¾ hours).
The second terminal, the main depot of Cruz del Sur (%65-263-5152; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; San Martín 486), focuses on transportation to the main Chilote cities, Quellón and Ancud, and long-distance services, including Punta Arenas (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 7am).
Starting sample fares and times are as follows:
| DESTINATION | COST (CH$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Ancud | 2000 | 1½ |
| Concepción | 25,000 | 13 |
| Puerto Montt | 6200 | 3¾ |
| Quellón | 2000 | 2 |
| Quemchi | 1500 | 1½ |
| Santiago | 31,000 | 16 |
| Temuco | 12,000 | 10 |
| Valdivia | 9500 | 7 |
| Punta Arenas | 50,000 | 36 |
BOAT
Naviera Austral (%65-263-5254; www.navieraustral.cl; Chacabuco 498) runs summer ferries to/from Chaitén departing on Sunday at midnight in January and February. Seat-only fares cost CH$12,700. Vehicles cost CH$69,000.
8Getting Around
Castro is tiny and walkable. If you are heading out to Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Gracia de Nercón, buses (cnr O’Higgins & Latorre) leave from Gamboa and Balmaceda near the northwest corner of Plaza de Armas.
Parque Nacional Chiloé
Running back from the pounding Pacific coastline, and over extensive stands of native evergreen forest, the 430-sq-km Parque Nacional Chiloé (%65-297-0724; www.conaf.cl; adult/child Chilean CH$2000/1000, foreigner CH$4000/2000; h9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun Dec-Mar, 9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri-Sun Apr-Nov) is located only 30km west of Chonchi and 54km west of Castro. The park teems with Chilote wildlife, ranging from 110 different types of bird, to foxes and the reclusive pudú (the world’s smallest deer), which inhabits the shadowy forests of the contorted tepú tree. Within the park and situated along the eastern perimeter are a number of Huiliche indigenous communities, some of which are involved with the management of campsites within the park.
Visitors are at the mercy of Pacific storms, so expect lots of rain. The mean annual rainfall at Cucao, the park’s main epicenter near the southern Chanquín sector, is 2200mm, and anyone planning more than an hour-long walk should have water-resistant footwear, woolen socks and a decent rain jacket. Insect repellent is not a bad idea either.
1Sights & Activities
oMuelle de las AlmasPIER
(%cell 9-9592-1286; Punta Pirulil; CH$1500; h8:30am-7pm Dec-Feb, 9am-5:30pm Mar-Nov)
Shrouded in folklore and Huilliche mythology, Chiloé’s ‘Dock of Souls’ was built in 2007 by architect Marcelo Orellana. The curved boardwalk spans 17m along an outrageously cinematic landscape and seemingly disappears off a 70m cliff into the Bay of Cucao. According to legend, wandering souls must call to a passing boatman, Tempilcahue, for transport to the afterlife, or they will mourn in the area for all eternity.
To reach this far-flung dock to nowhere on your own, you’ll need to drive to the ticket office (h8:30am-7pm Dec-Feb, 9am-5:30pm Mar-Nov) in Rahue, 7km south of Cucao, where you’ll pay your admission to the landowners, Don Orlando (don’t miss his fossil collection!) and Doña Sonia. (Keep your ticket – there is a ticket inspector on the hike.) From here, drive another 2.8km or so to the parking lot (CH$2000); and then hike another 2.3km along a rudimentarily signed, up-and-down, often-muddy path. In high season up to 700 people per day visit, so consider visiting at other times of year to avoid the lengthy queues. Buses Ojeda in Castro also runs a daily trip to Muelle de las Almas (10:30am, CH$7000 return).
Palafito TripADVENTURE
(%cell 9-9884-9552; www.palafitotrip.cl; Sector Chanqúin, Palafito Cucao Hostel)
Can arrange kayaking, horseback riding and trekking in and around Parque Nacional Chiloé, as well as bike rentals.
4Sleeping & Eating
Camping y Cabañas del ParqueCAMPGROUND$
(www.parquechiloe.cl; campsites per person CH$5000, cabins from CH$35,000; pW)
This well-equipped camping and cabin complex lies about 100m beyond the visitors center and into the park. The cabins are surprisingly nice, with stylish furnishings, running water, hot showers, firewood and all the mod cons. Dorms are low season only. Depending on whether or not the National Forest Corporation (Conaf) secures a concessionaire, it may or may not be up and running.
There is a small cafe (Sector Chanqúin; mains CH$1500-7900; h9am-6:30pm Dec 15-Mar, 10am-6pm Apr-Dec 14; W) on-site that is not only great for fuelling up for a hike but normally handles reception as well.
Hospedaje ChucaoGUESTHOUSE$
(%cell 9-9787-7319; Huentemó; r per person without bathroom incl breakfast CH$10,000)
Simple hospedaje for crashing at Huentemó. Contact Jorge Guenuman on the number provided for reservations.
oPalafito Cucao HostelHOTEL$$
(%65-297-1164; www.hostelpalafitocucao.cl; Camino Rural Cucao, Sector Chanqúin; dm/s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$16,000/45,000/55,000/75,000; piW)
This equally chic sister hotel of Castro’s Palafito hotels, situated on the Lago Cucao, offers the best and most comfortable beds in Cucao, whether you lay your head in one of the 11 stylish private rooms or in the equally fashionable six-bed dorm. Facilities include a cozy common area, a kitchen, and a wraparound terrace with outstanding views and a hot tub.
El ArrayánCHILEAN$
(%cell 9-9297-7160; www.facebook.com/lagranjadenotuco; Camino Rural Cucao, Sector Chanqúin; mains CH$7500-9500; h10am-10pm, shorter hr in winter; W)
A lovely couple runs what is easily Cucao’s best restaurant in town proper, a welcoming spot where everything from the pisco sours to sophisticated versions of Chilean staples are made from scratch in-house. Octopus, shrimp, fresh fish and beef dishes are chased by good wines in a room warmed by the massive dining-room parrilla. Good desserts too.
oCocineria Tradiciones MoreliaCHILEAN$$
(%9-9794-6594; Sector Quilque; mains CH$6500-9500; h10am-6pm, reduced hr winter)
This cozy, traditional, fireplace-heated restaurant on Lago Cucao beckons hungry adventurers with an artsy, hardwood-heavy dining room gussied up with wool-draped benches and local textiles.
The daily-changing menu focuses on local produce: think strawberry juice with nalca (giant Chilean rhubarb), sea kelp küchen, cazuela with macha (clams) and luche (red algae) smoked pork stew.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
QUEILÉN
For the peace and quiet of rural lodgings in striking distance of Parque Nacional Chiloe, seaside Queilen is an excellent choice.
Hidden away on the shores of the Palidad estuary southwest of Queilén, 15km or so from Ruta 5, a young Chilean-American couple have turned their cozy home into a wonderful and tasteful getaway. At Isla Bruja Lodge (%cell 9-7732-3226; www.islabrujalodge.com; Estero Paildad, Comuna de Queilén; r incl breakfast from CH$93,000, cabañas CH$85,000, treehouse CH$100,000; piW), homespun hospitality abounds, whether by Francisco and Marie or their domesticated sheep Torpé (abandoned at birth and raised here). Hiking and mountain-biking excursions are possible from here. Hardwoods throughout the home give it a cabin-in-the-woods feel and you can see dolphins in the estuary from the outdoor hot tub (included in the price along with kayaks and bikes). It’s popular with sailors, who ride right up, and mountain bikers, who hit the trails with Francisco. A new two-bedroom cabaña and two secluded palofitos de bosque (treehouses!) offer more privacy.
At Espejo de Luna (%cell 9-9040-5888; www.espejodeluna.cl; Km 35 de la ruta Chonchi-Queilén; r incl breakfast CH$122,000-205,000; pW) S, a massive sideways ship forms the reception and restaurant of an extremely cozy eco-getaway, 7km from Queilén. A few bungalows of various shapes and sizes are spread across 3 hectares, connected by wooden walkways wrapped in recycled fishing nets for grip. Each has a Mapudungun name, such as ‘the wisemen’, ‘the family’ and the lovers’ etc. Those seeking romance and solitude could tuck themselves away in the latter for a week without coming up for air, except to visit the supremely private outdoor hot tub, hidden away in an arrayán (Chilean myrtle) forest.
8Information
The Conaf visitor center (www.conaf.cl; h9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri-Sun Dec-Mar, 9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, to 4:30pm Fri-Sun Apr-Nov) is about 1km past the bridge from Cucao with park info in five languages.
8Getting There & Away
Cucao is 54km from Castro and 34km west of Chonchi via a bumpy gravel road, passable in all but the most inclement weather. There are 20 daily bus departures from Castro to Cucao (CH$2000, 7:45am to 8pm). The last bus back to Castro leaves Cucao at 6:30pm. Both bus companies, Union Express and Buses Oejda, have small ticket kiosks near the park entrance.
Parque Tantauco
One of the world’s 25 biodiversity hot spots identified by Conservation International, Parque Tantauco (%65-263-3805; www.parquetantauco.cl; Panamericana Sur 1826, Castro; adult/child CH$3500/500) – created and owned by Chilean business magnate and recently re-elected president Sebastián Piñera, and run by his foundation – is a private 1180-sq-km nature reserve west of Quellón encompassing 130km of trails. The park is home to native otters, Darwin foxes and pudú (small Andean deer), as well as both the world’s largest mammal (blue whales) and its smallest marsupial (monito del monte). Spending time here usually means you are isolated with nature, with access limited to just eight trekkers per day.
Along the route, there are six basic refugios (%65-263-3805; www.parquetantauco.cl; r per person CH$15,000) and a wonderful guesthouse (%65-263-3805; www.parquetantauco.cl; Inío; r with/without bathroom incl breakfast CH$70,000/60,000; W) in Inío, a fascinating fishing village at the bottom of Chiloé where the trek ends. There are also two campgrounds at the beginning (Chaiguata) and end (Inío) which cost CH$15,000 per site for up to four people.
For more information, visit the the park’s Castro office.
To reach Chaiguata, a private transfer from Castro is your only option (CH$100,000, 2½ hours, maximum four people with luggage) – try Chiloe Natural. From Inío, you’ll need to charter a plane (CH$250,000, maximum two passengers with luggage) or chance a seat on a government-subsidized boat (in high season only) to Quellón (per person CH$10,000) – locals are given priority.
Quellón
%065 / POP 21,823
While it’s the southern terminus for one of the world’s great highways (the Panamericana Hwy, also known as Hwy 5) and a salmon epicenter, Quellón is for the most part an unsophisticated town, one you’re only likely to see coming or going from the ferry to Chaitén.
If you come in on the ferry and have had enough traveling for a day, there are some excellent eats, but a general drunken-sailor sentiment about the place makes Quellón a get-in, get-out sort of town.
4Sleeping & Eating
Patagonia InsularHOTEL$$
(%65-268-1610; www.hotelpatagoniainsular.cl; Av Juan Ladrilleros 1737; s/d incl breakfast from CH$62,000/68,000; piW)
If you’re just off a cranky boat ride and need a considerable comfort upgrade, this is Quellón’s finest option, with 29 rooms perched above town with wooded views over the bay. It’s not luxurious by any means, but feels a world away from most beds in town – modern, friendly and perfectly agreeable. It’s a CH$1500 taxi ride from the center.
Hotel El Chico LeoHOTEL$$
(%65-268-1567; ligorina@hotmail.com; Costanera Pedro Montt 325; r per person without bathroom CH$12,000, s/d CH$18,000/32,000; pW)
Despite being cramped, full of grandmotherly froufrou and with ceilings that pose a challenge to taller travellers, El Chico Leo is a comfortable enough budget choice.
Sandwichería MitosSANDWICHES$
(www.mitoschiloe.cl; Jorge Vivar 145; sandwiches CH$4000-9000; h8:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; W)
For a dash of local color, this charming restaurant one street above the waterfront is dressed in cozy hardwoods and wool-trimmed accents. Patrons settle into a large, open-kitchen seating area and watch a gaggle of women chopping, stirring and seasoning ingredients for an extensive menu of huge sandwiches.
Taberna NosSPANISH$
(O’Higgins 150; tapas CH$2800-8000; h8pm-4am Mon-Sat; W)
If you spend one night in Quellón, it should be at this local secret run by a genuine Galician. Inside a residential black house, excellent tapas and drinks are served in this bar that’s way too cool for its address.
El Chico LeoSEAFOOD$
(Costanera Pedro Montt 325; mains CH$4500-10,500; h9am-11:30pm Mon-Sat, 1-8:30pm Sun; W)
A long-running standby along the costanera, this welcoming seafooder has been feeding hungry sailors at its red-cothed tables for years. The curanto is a good bet as your first or last Chilote meal, but there’s also an extensive menu of fish (merluza, salmon, congrio), shellfish and meat.
8Information
Don’t wander west of Gómez Garcia on the costanera or around the bus station, especially at night, when drunken people tend to harass outsiders.
For cash, there is a Banco de Chile (Juan Ladrilleros 315) on the main road through town.
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Castro (CH$2000, two hours, every 30 minutes, 6am to 7:30pm) leave from the new Cruz del Sur Terminal (%65-268-1284; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; Pedro Aguirre Cerda 052). There are also services to Puerto Montt (CH$8000, 4½ hours, 6am to 6:20pm) and Temuco (CH$13,000, eight hours, 6:50am, noon, 5:15pm).
Naviera Austral (%65-268-2207; www.navieraustral.cl; Pedro Montt 355; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 3-6:30pm Sun) sails to Chaitén on Thursday at 3am and on Sunday at 6pm throughout the year (except the second Sunday of each month). Passenger seats cost CH$13,000 and vehicles cost CH$71,000. It sails to Puerto Chacabuco on Wednesday and Saturday at 11pm throughout the year. Prices are CH$17,450 for a seat and CH$141,000 for a vehicle. The trip takes 28 hours.