Tierra del Fuego
Chilean Tierra Del Fuego
Porvenir
Parque Nacional Yendegaia
Isla Navarino
Cabo de Hornos & Surrounding Islands
Argentine Tierra del Fuego
Ushuaia
Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano
Río Grande
Tierra del Fuego
Why Go?
At the southern extreme of the Americas, the immense Fuegian wilderness, with its slate-gray seascapes, crimson bogs and wind-worn forests, endures as awesome and irritable as in the era of exploration. Shared by Chile and Argentina, this area is also lovely and wild. The remote Chilean side consists of hardscrabble outposts, lonely sheep ranches, and a roadless expanse of woods, lakes of undisturbed trout and nameless mountains.
In contrast, the Argentine side lives abuzz. Antarctica-bound cruisers arriving in Ushuaia find a lively dining scene and dozens of outfitters poised at the ready. Take a dogsled ride, boat the Beagle Channel or carve turns at the world’s southernmost resort. When you tire of the hubbub, cross the Beagle Channel to solitary Isla Navarino.
Uninhabited groups of islands peter out at Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn). And if Tierra del Fuego is not remote enough, Antarctica remains just a boat ride away.
When to Go
- Nov–Mar Warm but windy, best for hiking, penguin watching and estancia (grazing ranch) visits.
- Mid-Nov–mid-Apr Fishing season on the Atlantic coast and Chile’s remote Lago Blanco.
- Jul–Sep Optimal for skiing, snowboarding or dogsledding in Ushuaia.
Best Places to Stay
Tierra del Fuego Highlights
1 Dientes de Navarino Backpacking around the jagged peaks and sculpted landscapes on this burly five-day backcountry circuit.
2 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego Exploring the ancient moss-bound Fuegian forests.
3 Ushuaia Splurging on fresh local seafood in gourmet style and racing through frozen valleys on a dogsledding tour.
4 Porvenir Skirting the scenic cliffs of Bahía Inútil while driving the empty back roads.
5 Strait of Magellan Cruising on ferry Yaghan while admiring glaciers, whales and remote lighthouses.
6 Cerro Castor Skiing and snowboarding with sublime views at the world’s southernmost resort, just outside Ushuaia.
7 Parque Natural Karukinka Getting way off the beaten path to explore this pristine park in the middle of the main island.
History
In 1520, when Magellan passed through the strait that now bears his name, neither he nor any other European explorer had any immediate interest in the land and its people. Seeking a passage to the Spice Islands of Asia, early navigators feared and detested the stiff westerlies, hazardous currents and violent seas that impeded their progress. Consequently, the Selk’nam, Haush, Yaghan and Alacalufes people who populated the area faced no immediate competition for their lands and resources.
These groups were hunters and gatherers. The Selk’nam, also known as Ona, and the Haush subsisted primarily on hunting guanaco and dressing in its skins, while the Yaghan and Alacalufes, known as ‘Canoe Indians,’ lived on fish, shellfish and marine mammals. The Yaghan (also known as the Yamaná) consumed the fungus dubbed Indian bread, which feeds off southern beech. Despite inclement weather, they wore little clothing, but constant fires kept them warm. European sailors termed the region ‘Land of Fire’ for the Yaghan campfires they spotted along the shoreline.
European settlement brought the rapid demise of the indigenous Fuegians. Darwin, visiting the area in 1834, wrote that the difference between the Fuegians and Europeans was greater than that between wild and domestic animals (as a result, he has few fans here). On an earlier voyage, Captain Robert Fitzroy of the Beagle had abducted a few Yaghan, whom he returned after several years of missionary education in England.
No European power took any real interest in settling the region until Britain occupied the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) in the 1770s. However, the successor governments of Chile and Argentina felt differently. The Chilean presence on the Strait of Magellan beginning in 1843, along with increasing British evangelism, spurred Argentina to formalize its authority at Ushuaia in 1884. In 1978 Chile and Argentina nearly went to war over claims to three small disputed islands in the Beagle Channel. International border issues in the area were not resolved until 1984 and are still the subject of some discussion.
8Getting Around
Half the island is Argentine; have your passport ready for border crossings. Those traveling by bus can make connections through Punta Arenas or cities in southern Argentina.
Chilean Tierra Del Fuego
Porvenir
%061 / POP 5907
If you want a slice of home-baked Fuegian life, this is it. Most visitors come on a quick day trip from Punta Arenas tainted by seasickness. But spending a night in this village of metal-clad Victorian houses affords you an opportunity to explore the nearby bays and countryside and absorb a little of the local life; birdwatchers can admire the nearby king penguins, and lively populations of cormorants, geese and seabirds. Porvenir is known for its inaccessibility (there’s no bus route here), but the completion of roads through the southern extension of Chilean Tierra del Fuego will open up a whole untouched wilderness to visitors.
Porvenir experienced waves of immigration, many from Croatia, when gold was discovered in 1879. Sheep estancias (grazing ranches) provided more reliable work, attracting Chileans from the island of Chiloé, who also came for fishing work. Today’s population is a unique combination of the two.
1Sights & Activities
Though almost unknown as a wildlife-watching destination, Chilean Tierra del Fuego has abundant marine and birdlife, which includes Peale’s dolphins around Bahía Chilota and king penguins, found seasonally in Bahía Inútil. The discovery of this new king penguin colony has created quite a stir. As of yet, there’s little procedure in place to protect the penguins from overvisitation. Please make your visit with a reputable agency, give the penguins ample berth and respect the nesting season.
Gold panning, horseback riding and 4WD tours can be arranged through Porvenir’s tourist office.
Museo de Tierra del FuegoMUSEUM
(%61-258-1800; Jorge Schythe 71; CH$1000; 
h8am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri, 10:30am-1:30pm & 3-5pm Sat & Sun)
On the Plaza de Armas, the intriguing Museo de Tierra del Fuego has some unexpected materials, including Selk’nam skulls and mummies, musical instruments used by the mission Indians on Isla Dawson and an exhibit on early Chilean cinematography.
Far South ExpeditionsOUTDOORS
High-end naturalist-run tours, with transportation available from Punta Arenas. Offers day trips and overnights to the king penguin colony or all-inclusive packages. Contact by phone or email.
Big PampaOUTDOORS
(%cell 9-6190-4183; www.bigpampa.com; Croacia 702; hhours vary)
The only Tierra del Fuego–based agency on Chile’s part of the big island does worthwhile tours to the king penguin rookery, visits to Parque Karukinka and trekking around lakes. Located at Yendegaia House.
Travesia del Fin del MundoHORSEBACK RIDING
(%cell 9-4204-0362; wilke.chile@gmail.com; Estancia Porfin; 8-day tour CH$500,000)
Longtime guide Wilke gives riding tours of Tierra del Fuego, viewing herds of wild horses and visiting remote ranches. The horses are considered a plague on the island, throwing the fragile ecosystem out of balance. Wilke’s efforts to tame and sell the horses strive for a peaceful solution. The rustic tour is aimed at riders with experience.
Transfers to and from Porvenir (80km) included. Making contact with Wilke can be a challenge since he travels out of cell service areas. Accepts volunteers.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel EspañaHOTEL$
(%61-258-0160; Croacia 698; s/d/tr CH$25,000/35,000/43,000; 
p
W)
This rambling hotel has spacious, impeccably kept rooms with views of the bay. Rooms have Berber carpets, TVs and central heating. There is a downstairs cafe and parking in the back.
Hotel YaganGUESTHOUSE$
(%61-258-0936; Philippi 296; s/d US$62/80; W)
Eleven clean and pleasant rooms offer heating and cable TV; some have wonderful views. The restaurant, serving fresh seafood and more, gets crowded for meals.
oYendegaia HouseB&B$$
(%61-258-1919; http://yendegaiahouse.com; Croacia 702; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$67/100/120; W)
Everything a B&B should be, with naturalist books (some authored by the owner) to browse, abundant breakfast, views of the strait and spacious rooms with thick down duvets. This historic Magellanic home (Porvenir’s first lodging) has been lovingly restored, and its family of hosts are helpful. Its tour agency, Far South Expeditions, runs naturalist-led trips. With bikes for rent.
The cafe features espresso drinks, sandwiches and pizza.
El ChispaCAFE$
(%61-258-0054; Señoret 202; mains CH$5000-9000; hhours vary)
In an old aquamarine firehouse packed with locals for salmon dinners, lamb and mashed potatoes, and other home-cooked fare. It’s a couple of blocks uphill from the water.
Club CroataSEAFOOD$$
(%61-258-0053; Señoret 542; mains CH$5000-12,000; h11am-4pm & 7-10:30pm Tue-Sun)
Formal by tradition, the town’s most reliable restaurant serves good seafood at reasonable prices. There’s also Croat specialties, such as pork chops with chucrut (sauerkraut). The pub is open to 3am.
8Information
For tourism information, consult at the tourist office (%61-258-0098, 61-258-0094; www.muniporvenir.cl; Zavattaro 434; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) or kiosk (hJan-Feb) in front of Parque Yugoslavo.
BancoEstado (cnr Philippi & Croacia; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri) has a 24-hour ATM.
The post office (Philippi 176; h9am-1pm & 3-5pm Mon-Fri) faces the plaza.
8Getting There & Away
From Punta Arenas you can fly here with Aerovías DAP (%61-261-6100; www.aeroviasdap.cl; cnr Señoret & Philippi) or take the ferry crossing with Transbordador Austral Broom (%61-258-0089; www.tabsa.cl; passenger/vehicle Porvenir-Punta Arenas CH$6200/39,800).
A good gravel road (Rte 257) runs east along Bahía Inútil to the Argentine border at San Sebastián; allow about four hours. From San Sebastián (where there’s gas and a motel), northbound motorists should avoid the heavily traveled and rutted truck route directly north and instead take the route from Onaisín to the petroleum company town of Cerro Sombrero, en route to the crossing of the Strait of Magellan at Punta Delgada–Puerto Espora.
Interior Tierra del Fuego
POP 420
You can see the wild interior in two ways: either as the future of tourism or as nowhereland itself. For adventurers and anglers, it has its intrigue. South of Cameron, access to Chilean Tierra del Fuego once petered out into stark, roadless wilderness and the rugged Cordillera Darwin. With the Ministry of Public Works now working hard to create access to these southern points, there will eventually be a link to Ushuaia via Lago Fagnano. In the future the same road will continue to provide access to Parque Nacional Yendegaia.
Located south of Bahía Inútil (the Useless Bay), the region of Timaukel occupies the southern section of Chilean Tierra del Fuego. Attractions here include exclusive fishing lodges on the cherished fly-fishing getaway Lago Blanco and Parque Natural Karukinka.
Few roads lead into this region, with even less public transportation.
1Sights
Parque Natural KarukinkaNATURE RESERVE
(%in Santiago 2-2222-2697; www.karukinkanatural.cl)
A pristine private park owned by the Wildlife Conservation Society, Karukinka has 300,000 hectares of lush wetlands, lenga forests and snowy peaks. There’s great birdwatching, and possible glimpses of guanacos, foxes, river otters, dolphins, seals and elephant seals. There’s camping as well as a list of nearby accommodations on the website. No fires are allowed. Access is by car from Porvenir or seasonal flights from Punta Arenas to Pampa Guanaco, some 20 minutes away.
4Sleeping & Eating
There is some camping in reserve areas; otherwise, there’s a fishing lodge, and some estancias may offer lodgings.
Nona NinaCAFE
(%61-274-4349; www.nonanina.cl; Ruta 257, Km87, Estancia Miriana; items from CH$3000; hhours vary)
If you are heading to Argentine Tierra del Fuego via the San Sebastián crossing, stop in at this welcoming family-run teahouse in Estancia Miriana for real coffee and loose-leaf teas served with homemade bread, rhubarb jam and sumptuous pies and cakes.
Parque Nacional Yendegaia
Serene glacier-rimmed bays and native Fuegian forest comprise this 1500-sq-km national park. Located in the Cordillera Darwin, Parque Nacional Yendegaia (www.conaf.cl) is a strategic wildlife corridor between Argentina’s Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego and Chile’s Parque Nacional Alberto de Agostini.
Partially a one-time estancia comprising 400 sq km, it has been in the process of removing livestock and rehabilitating trails. The Vicuña–Yendegaia road through the park is due to be finished in 2021. Trails and visitor infrastructure are in the works.
Unfortunately, access is difficult and expensive. Visitors should plan to camp and be completely self-supported. There are no provisions available here and there is no on-site phone contact.
8Getting There & Away
The Transbordador Austral Broom ferry travels between Punta Arenas and Puerto Williams and will drop passengers off only if given advance notice. Be aware of ferry dates and have advance reservations, as there is only weekly service in each direction, and weather delays could alter pick-up times or dates.
Isla Navarino
For authentic end-of-the-earth ambience, this remote island wins the contest without even campaigning. Located south across the Beagle Channel from Ushuaia, it’s a mostly uninhabited wilderness of peat bogs, southern beech forest and jagged, toothy spires known as Dientes del Navarino, also a famed trekking route. By a quirk, the island is considered by Santiago to be part of Chilean Antarctica, not Chilean Tierra del Fuego or Magallanes. Puerto Williams is the only town, the official port of entry for vessels en route to Cabo de Hornos and Antarctica, and home to the last living Yaghan speaker.
A permanent European presence was established on the island by mid-19th-century missionaries who were followed by fortune-seekers during the 1890s gold rush. Current inhabitants include the Chilean navy, municipal employees and octopus and crab fishers. The remaining mixed-race descendants of the Yaghan people live in the small coastal village of Villa Ukika.
8Getting There & Away
From Punta Arenas there are flights and a ferry service with Transbordador Austral Broom. There are also small boat crafts reaching Ushuaia in good weather. Visitors can also stop in on a cruise.
Puerto Williams
%61 / POP 1677
Those stationed here might feel marooned, but for travelers Puerto Williams smarts of great adventure, with superb opportunities for trekking and kayaking. Not much happens here. In town, the wind hurtles debris while calves graze on the plaza and yards are stacked roof-deep in firewood. With transportation connections improving, more visitors are bound to discover South America’s southernmost town.
1Sights
Museo Martín GusindeMUSEUM
(%61-262-1043; www.museomartingusinde.cl; cnr Araguay & Gusinde; donation requested; h9:30am-1pm & 3-6:30pm Tue-Fri, 2:30-6:30pm Sat & Sun, reduced hours low season)
A well-crafted museum named for the German priest and ethnographer who worked among the Yaghans from 1918 to 1923. Focuses on ethnography and natural history. Spanish-only signs. Public wi-fi is available in the library. See its Facebook page for visiting shows.
Club de Yates MicalviLANDMARK
(hlate Sep-May)
A grounded German cargo boat, the Micalvi was declared a regional naval museum in 1976 but has found an infinitely better use as a floating bar, frequented by navy men and yachties. Unfortunately, the bar isn’t open to the general public.
Yelcho ReplicaLANDMARK
Near the entrance to the military quarters is a replica of the original bow of the ship that rescued Ernest Shackleton’s Antarctic expedition from Elephant Island in 1916.
2Activities
Mountain biking is a great way to see the island, which has a gravel coastal road on its northern face. Lakutaia Lodge offers horseback riding and heli-fishing, also available to nonguests.
Visitors can charter boats to visit Italia and Holanda glaciers: ask at tour agencies.
oExplora Isla NavarinoADVENTURE SPORTS
(%cell 9-9185-0155; www.exploraislanavarino.com; Centro Comercial 140B; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri) 
S
This excellent outfitter runs kayak trips in a protected bay, trail running, biking and more, using a cool refurbished bus as base camp. There are also day-long and multiday trekking trips to the Dientes circuit and others with bilingual guides with sat phone and first-aid training. Works with small groups and incorporates local history into tours.
Dientes de NavarinoHIKING
This trekking circuit offers impossibly raw and windswept vistas under Navarino’s toothy spires. Beginning at the Virgin altar just outside of town, the five-day, 53.5km route winds through a spectacular wilderness of exposed rock and secluded lakes. Fit hikers can knock it out in four days in the (relatively) dry summer months. Markings are minimal: GPS, used in conjunction with marked maps, is a handy navigational tool.
Winter hikes are only recommended for experienced mountaineers. The tourism office offers a useful brochure with detailed route information.
Cerro BanderaHIKING
With expansive views of the Beagle Channel, this four-hour round trip covers the first approach of the Navarino Circuit. The trail ascends steeply through lenga to a blustery stone-littered hillside planted with a Chilean flag.
Turismo ShilaOUTDOORS
(%cell 9-7897-2005; www.turismoshila.cl; O’Higgins 220; h9am-1:30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat)
Very helpful stop for trekkers. Offers guides and porters for Dientes treks, camping rentals, bicycle rentals, snowshoes, fishing gear and useful GPS tracks for trails. Also sells Ushuaia boat tickets and can arrange glacier boating tours.
Parque de Aventuras SubantárticoADVENTURE SPORTS
(%cell 9-8883-9884; www.facebook.com/parquedeaventurassubantartico; Y-905 s/n; CH$10,000; h9am-7pm)
With a canopy zipline and lake activities, this is a good spot for family fun.
Lago WindhondHIKING
This remote lake is a lesser known, but worthy, alternative to hiking the Dientes circuit, with sheltered hiking through forest and peat bogs. The four-day round trip is a better bet if there are high winds. For route details, ask at Turismo Shila or go with a guide.
Waia ExpeditionsBOATING
(%cell 9-6228-4207; waiaexpedition@gmail.com)
This fast boat offers trips around the island and to see the glaciers when weather permits. Comfort is basic, with a covered area but no bathroom.
DIENTES PRIMER
While growing in popularity, the Dientes de Navarino hiking circuit requires more navigational skills and backcountry know-how than Torres del Paine. Out here, you’re essentially on your own. Before going:
A Consider whether you prefer naturalist guides or local guides and porters.
A When choosing a guide, ask about first-aid certification, language skills and the extent of their experience.
A Flight luggage is limited to 10kg. You can rent gear and buy camping gas and basic provisions on the island. Dry goods are well stocked, but bring your own energy bars.
A Make a plan B for bad weather – which might mean a change in destination, a postponement or extra time.
A Register at the police station (for safety reasons) before starting your trek.
A It’s a good idea to have a GPS device and VHF radio.
TTours
Denis ChevallayTOURS
(%cell 9-7876-6934; denischevallay@gmail.com; Ortiz 260; hby appointment)
For guided day treks, city tours and birdwatching, Denis speaks French, German and English and has a wealth of botanical and historical knowledge.
John CanoHIKING
(%cell 9-9127-6313; www.extremewilliams.com; per day CH$60,000)
John is an experienced guide working the Dientes de Navarino circuit. Porter service is extra.
Turismo SIMBOATING
(%cell 9-9354-8322.; www.simexpeditions.com; 21-day Antarctica expeditions per person per day from US$350; hNov-Apr)
Wolf and Jeanette run reputable sailing trips (reserve well in advance) to the Beagle Channel, Cape Horn, South Georgia Islands and Antarctica.
Parque Etnobotánico OmoraECOTOUR
(%61-262-1715; www.omora.org; adult/child CH$15,000/7500; h8am-5pm)
Best for those keen to learn about local flora and fauna in depth, this park is open for scientist-led tours (2½ hours) by advance reservation only. Trails feature plant names marked in Yaghan, Latin and Spanish. On the road to the right of the Virgin altar, 4km (an hour’s walk) toward Puerto Navarino.
4Sleeping
Hostal PusakiGUESTHOUSE$
(%cell 9-9833-3248; pattypusaki@yahoo.es; Piloto Pardo 222; incl breakfast d US$75, r per person without bathroom US$28)
Patty welcomes travelers into this cozy home with legendary warmth and comfortable, carpeted rooms. Her excellent group dinners with fresh seafood are also available to nonguests.
Hostal MiramarGUESTHOUSE$
(%61-272-1372; www.hostalmiramar.wordpress.com; Muñoz 555; d with/without bathroom incl breakfast CH$40,000/30,000; W)
Señora Nuri hosts guests in her lovely, light-filled home with great views of the Beagle Channel and central heating. Dinners are available with advance notice.
Refugio El PadrinoHOSTEL$
(%61-262-1136, cell 9-8438-0843; Costanera 276; campsites per person US$25, dm incl breakfast US$13)
Friendly and conducive to meeting others, this clean, self-service hostel doubles as a social hub hosted by the effervescent Cecilia. The small dorm rooms are located right on the channel. Marked with flags, the camping area features a nice living room, a kitchen and hot showers, and is located in an alley near the waterfront Copec gas station several blocks away.
Hostal Paso McKinlayGUESTHOUSE$
(%cell 9-7998-7598; www.hostalpasomckinlay.cl; Piloto Pardo 213; s/d incl breakfast CH$30,000/40,000; W)
Run by the friendly family of an artisan fisherman, this lodging has clean remodeled rooms with TV, central heating and a 3rd-floor lookout. There’s kitchen use and laundry service, but the best feature is fresh fish available for dinners in-house.
Hotel Fio FioHOTEL$$
(%cell 9-3186-0121; www.fio-fio.cl; Cabo de Hornos 14; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$85/110/135)
Clad in black tin siding, this smart six-room hotel is a fine addition to town, with Berber carpets, central heating and decor in subdued, natural tones. Includes airport transfers.
Errante EcolodgeLODGE$$$
(%cell 9-9368-9723; www.erranteecolodge.com; dm/s/d incl breakfast US$60/170/200; W) S
Located near the end of the Dientes trek, this seafront lodge built by a young couple is steeped in Fuegian nature. The design is modern and sleek, with solar energy, central heating and thick down duvets. Rooms sport giant windows overlooking the Beagle Channel. There are also bikes for rent and wonderful dinners served at a shared table. Includes airport transfers.
The two spacious dorms take advantage of high ceilings with well-designed triple-decker bunks.
Lakutaia LodgeHOTEL$$$
(%61-262-1733; www.lakutaia.cl; s/d/tr US$233/292/349)
About 3km east of town toward the airport, this modern full-service lodge offers respite in a lovely, rural setting. There is a full-service restaurant and the library contains interesting history and nature references. There are also treks and horseback riding on offer. Its only disadvantage is its isolation; you might leave without getting much of a feel for the quirky town.
5Eating & Drinking
Diente de NavarinoCOLOMBIAN$$
(%cell 9-7586-7840; Centro Comercial s/n; mains CH$4000-12,000; h11am-midnight Tue-Sat)
Pulsing with tropical beats, this Colombian cafe serves up big sandwiches, arepas (cornmeal cakes) and stews. The bandeja paisa feeds big appetites with flavorful beans and rice, fried plantains, egg and shoe-leather meat.
WulaiaCHILEAN$$
(%61-263-9675; Centro Comercial s/n; mains CH$9000-13,000; h12:30-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat)
A decent option for fried fish, chupe de centolla (king crab casserole) and abundant meat dishes, though vegetables lack luster. Service can be slow.
KansakaPIZZA$$
(%cell 9-7987-5491; Costanera 273; pizza CH$7000; h7:30-11:30pm Nov-Mar)
Brought to you by a couple from Lyon, France, these delectable thin-crust pizzas are served in their own living room on the coastal road. Look for the lime-green house. BYO drinks. Servings are small.
La Picada de los VelerosCHILEAN$$$
(%cell 9-9833-3248; Piloto Pardo 222; meals CH$15,000-25,000; hdinners by reservation)
Family-style dinners are served to a menagerie of travelers. Patty is a genius with fresh seafood preparations. The jovial environment is best enjoyed if you can speak some Spanish. A bottle of wine is always welcome on the table.
Puerto Luisa CafeCAFE
(%cell 9-9934-0849; Costanera 317; snacks CH$3000; h10am-1pm & 4-9pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-9pm Sat Nov-Mar; W)
Next to the dock, this little haven offers espresso drinks and cheesecake in a cozy setting of oversized chairs with great sea views.
El AlambiquePUB
(Piloto Pardo 217; h8pm-1am Tue-Sat)
Covered in murals, this cavernous haunt is the only venue with a pub atmosphere at night.
8Information
Banco de Chile (%61-637-3737; Centro Comercial s/n; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri) The island’s only ATM tends to run out of cash but the bank can offer cash advances on credit cards.
Municipal Tourist Information (www.ptowilliams.cl/turismo.html; Centro Comercial; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Offers city maps, day trek maps, as well as weather and route conditions for Lago Windhond and Dientes de Navarino treks. Located in a small kiosk.
Turismo Shila Outdoor store that sells Ushuaia boat tickets and can arrange boating trips for glacier viewing.
8Getting There & Away
Puerto Williams is accessible by plane or boat, although inclement weather can produce delays. Allow for a cushion of extra travel time to get on or off the island. Options from Punta Arenas, Chile, include the following:
Aerovías DAP (%61-262-1052; www.aeroviasdap.cl; Centro Comercial s/n; 1-way CH$75,000; h9am-1pm & 2:30-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1:30pm Sat) Flies to Punta Arenas (CH$75,000, 1¼ hours) daily Monday to Saturday from November to March, with fewer winter flights. Reserve ahead since there’s high demand.
The airport is a 30-minute walk from the center. Hotels may offer pick up. Transfer services meet passengers at the terminal (CH$2500 per person). DAP flights to Antarctica may make a brief stopover here.
Transbordador Austral Broom (%61-272-8100; www.tabsa.cl; reclining seat/bunk incl meals CH$108,000/151,000, 32hr) A ferry sails from the Tres Puentes sector of Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams three or four times a month, mostly on Thursdays, with departures from Puerto Williams back to Punta Arenas mostly on Saturdays. Only bunk berths can be reserved ahead; the seats are reserved for locals until the last minute, although you can request one and will usually get it. Travelers rave about the trip: if the weather holds there are glacier views on the trip from Punta Arenas and the possibility of spotting dolphins or whales between December and April. From Puerto Williams, the glaciers are passed at night.
Options from Ushuaia, Argentina, change frequently. Turismo Shila keeps tabs on the current offerings and offers reservations:
Fast boats to Argentina (%in Argentina 02901-436193; www.ushuaiaboating.com; 1-way US$120; hservice Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) Three separate boat services visit Ushuaia with Zodiac boats. Tickets include a sometimes bumpy and exposed 40-minute crossing plus an overland transfer to/from Puerto Navarino. Note: inclement weather means cancellations or indefinite postponement.
8Getting Around
Ferry Puerto Toro (h8am departure, 3pm return) The last Sunday of every month, there’s a free ferry to Puerto Toro, an isolated fishing post on the eastern shores of Isla Navarino. It’s worth going to have a look around or to do some biking on area trails. It’s a two-hour trip from Puerto Williams. Reserve your spot at the tourism office.
Cabo de Hornos & Surrounding Islands
If you’ve made it to Isla Navarino or Ushuaia, you’ve nearly reached the end of the Americas at Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn). This small group of uninhabited Chilean islands has long been synonymous with adventure and the romance of the old days of sailing, although sailors usually dreaded the rough and brutally cold trip.
The South Shetland Islands at the northern end of the Antarctic Peninsula are one of the continent’s most visited areas, thanks to the spectacular scenery, abundant wildlife and proximity to Tierra del Fuego, 1000km to the north across the Drake Passage.
As part of Chile’s policy of trying to incorporate its claimed Territorio Chileno Antártico, the government has encouraged families to settle at Frei station, and the first children were born there in 1984. Today the station accommodates a population of about 80 summer personnel in sterile, weatherproofed houses.
TTours
Aerovías DAPTOUR
(%61-222-3340; www.dap.cl; hNov-Apr)
Flies from Punta Arenas to Frei station on King George Island (three hours). One- and two-day programs include tours to Villa Las Estrellas, sea lion and penguin colonies and other investigation stations on the island. Flights to Cabo de Hornos can also be chartered. Check the website for current departure dates and prices.
Antarctica XXITOURS
(%Punta Arenas 61-261-4100; www.antarcticaxxi.com; 7 days/6 nights double occupancy per person US$14,995)
Runs the only air-cruise combo, flying from Punta Arenas to Chile’s Frei station on King George Island, with a transfer to a ship for several days of cruising the South Shetlands and peninsula region. Programs vary in length. A member of IAATO, a body that mandates strict guidelines for responsible travel to Antarctica.
8Getting There & Away
Beyond having your own yacht, the only way to get here is on a package tour or charter. Aerovías DAP has charter flights above Cabo de Hornos that don’t land. Potential visitors can also charter a sailboat trip with Turismo SIM.
All transportation is weather-dependent, although ships are more likely than the small airplanes to do the trip in rough conditions. Plan for the possibility of delays, and if you can’t wait, don’t count on a refund. Check with Hotel Lakutaia for last-minute specials from Puerto Williams.
Argentine Tierra del Fuego
8Getting There & Away
The most common overland route from Patagonia is via the 20-minute ferry crossing at Punta Delgada (Primera Angostura; %56-61-272-8100; www.tabsa.cl; car/passenger CH$15,000/1700; hdaylight hours), Chile. Unlike the rest of Argentina, Tierra del Fuego doesn’t have designated provincial highways but rather secondary roads known as rutas complementarias, modified by a lowercase letter. These roads are referred to as ‘RC-a,’ for example.
If renting a car in mainland Argentina, be aware that you must pass through Chile a couple of times to reach Tierra del Fuego. This requires special documents, special attention to banned items (mainly fruit, dairy products, meat and seeds) and additional international insurance coverage. Most car-rental agencies can arrange the paperwork with advance notice.
Chile is building an alternate road to the southern end of the island. At the time of research it linked with Lago Fagnano, but a 4WD vehicle was required.
Visitors can fly into Río Grande or Ushuaia. Buses take the ferry from Chile’s Punta Delgada; all pass through Río Grande before reaching Ushuaia.
Ushuaia
%02901 / POP 57,000
A busy port and adventure hub, Ushuaia is a sliver of steep streets and jumbled buildings below the snowcapped Martial Range. Here the Andes meets the famed Beagle Channel in a sharp skid, making way for the city before reaching a sea of lapping currents.
Ushuaia takes full advantage of its end-of-the-world status, and an increasing number of Antarctica-bound vessels call into its port. The town’s mercantile hustle knows no irony: there’s a souvenir shop named for Jimmy Button (a Fuegian native taken for show in England) and the ski center is named for the destructive invasive castor (beaver). That said, with a pint of the world’s southernmost microbrew in hand, you can happily plot the outdoor options: hiking, sailing, skiing, kayaking and even scuba diving.
Tierra del Fuego’s comparatively high wages draw Argentines from all over, and some locals lament the lack of urban planning and loss of small-town culture.
1Sights
Museo Marítimo & Museo del PresidioMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-437481; www.museomaritimo.com; cnr Yaganes & Gobernador Paz; adult/student/family AR$300/200/650; h10am-8pm Apr-Nov, 9am-8pm Dec-Mar, last admission 7:30pm)
Convicts were transferred from Isla de los Estados to Ushuaia in 1906 to build this national prison, finished in 1920. The depressing cells, designed for 380 inmates, held up to 800 before the prison closed in 1947. Famous prisoners include author Ricardo Rojas and anarchist Simón Radowitzky. The depiction of penal life is intriguing, but information is only in Spanish. Maritime exhibits provide a unique glimpse of the region’s history.
Museo del Fin del MundoMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-421863; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar/museo; cnr Av Maipú & Rivadavia; AR$130; h10am-7pm)
Built in 1903, this former bank, close to the port, contains exhibits on Fuegian natural history, stuffed birdlife, photos of natives and early penal colonies, and replicas of moderate interest. Information is provided in Spanish with English translations. Guided visits are at 11am and 3:30pm.
2Activities
Aeroclub UshuaiaSCENIC FLIGHTS
(%02901-421717, 02901-421892; www.aeroclubushuaia.com; Luis Pedro Fique 151; per person 15/60min US$70/205)
Offers scenic flights over the channel and the Cordillera Darwin. Flights leave before 1pm; try to confirm three days ahead. The weather here can change rapidly, so your flight may have to be delayed or cancelled.
Cerro CastorSKIING
(%02901-499301; www.cerrocastor.com; full-day lift ticket low/high season AR$885/1120; hmid-Jun–mid-Oct)
Incredibly scenic, this large resort 26km from Ushuaia via RN 3 has 15 runs spanning 400 hectares, beautiful cabins and multiple restaurants. Rentals are available for skis and boards. Multiday and shoulder-season tickets are discounted. Clear windbreaks are added to lifts on cold days. August is the most reliable month for incredible snow conditions.
Cerro Martial & Glaciar MartialOUTDOORS
The panoramas of Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel from here are more impressive than the smallish glacier. Weather is unpredictable, so take warm clothing and sturdy footwear. You can hike or do a canopy tour. To get here, catch a taxi or minivan to Cerro Martial; minivans leave from the corner of Av Maipú and Juana Fadul every half-hour from 8:30am to 6:30pm.
Cruceros AustralisCRUISE
(%in Buenos Aires 011-5128-4632; www.australis.com; 3 nights & 4 days per person from US$1190; hlate Sep-early Apr)
Luxurious three- to four-night sightseeing cruises from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas (Chile), with the possibility of disembarking at Cape Horn.
Rayen AventuraADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-15-580517, 02901-437005; www.rayenaventura.com; Av San Martín 611)
Known for its upbeat 4x4 tours to Lago Fagnano, with trekking or kayaking options and estancia visits. Also has winter tours.
oTierraADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-15-486886, 02901-433800; www.tierraturismo.com; office 4C, Onas 235) S
Offering active tours and unusual tailored trips, this small agency was created by ultra-friendly, multilingual former guides who wanted to create a more personalized experience. Options include 4WD trips combining kayaking and hiking, treks in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, and Estancia Harberton visits.
Canal FunADVENTURE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-435777; www.canalfun.com; Roca 136; 
c)
Run by a group of younger, multilingual guides, these popular all-day outings include hiking and kayaking in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, the famous 4WD adventure around Lago Fagnano, and a multi-sport outing around Estancia Harberton that includes kayaking and a visit by boat to the penguin colony.
PiratourBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-15-604646, 02901-435557; www.piratour.net; Av San Martín 847; penguin-colony tour AR$2500, plus port fee AR$20; h9am-9pm)
Piratour operates 20-person tours to Isla Martillo for trekking and spotting Magellanic and Papúa penguins, plus a visit to Harberton. This is the only agency that gets you out and about walking on the island – with others you have to penguin watch from the coast by boat. Also has boats to Puerto Williams (Chile; December to March). There’s a second office at the Tourist Wharf.
Canopy ToursADVENTURE
(%02901-503767; www.canopyushuaia.com.ar; Refugio de Montaña, Cerro Martial; long/short route AR$600/450; h10am-5pm Oct-Jun)
These family-friendly canopy tours offer a long route (nine lines and two hanging bridges) and a shorter route (seven lines) that will get you zipping through the forest. By reservation only. The complex also has a cute cafe, with sandwiches, desserts and hot drinks, right before you start along the track to Glaciar Martial.
Patagonia Adventure ExplorerBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-15-465842; www.patagoniaadvent.com.ar; Tourist Wharf)
Comfortable boats with snacks and a short hike on Isla Bridges. For extra adventure and a more intimate experience on the Beagle Channel, set sail in the 18ft sailboat. Multiday trips and full-day sail trips with wine and gourmet snacks are also available.
Che Turismo AlternativoBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-15-517967; www.facebook.com/elcheturismoalternativo; Tourist Wharf; half-day tour AR$1200)
This owner-run boat tour of the Beagle Channel includes a trek on Isla Bridges and local beer on tap to enjoy during the cruise back to the harbor – it’s very popular with the hostel crowd. An additional AR$20 fee must be paid at the port before the boat leaves. Tours run daily from 10am and last four hours.
Compañía de Guías de PatagoniaADVENTURE
(%02901-437753; www.companiadeguias.com.ar; full-day hike US$105)
A reputable outfitter organizing expeditions and multiday treks around Ushuaia, Isla Navarino and further afield in remote Tierra del Fuego. Also offers glacier trekking, mountain biking and Antarctica trips with sea kayaking.
Turismo ComapaTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-430727; www.comapa.com; Av San Martín 409)
Confirm Navimag and Cruceros Australis passages at this long-standing Chile-based agency. It also sells conventional tours and boat transfers to Puerto Williams (Chile).
Tierra MayorADVENTURE
(Antartur; %02901-430329; http://antartur.com.ar; RN 3, Km3018; guided dogsledding US$50)
Tierra Mayot offers competitively priced adventure tours and has its own mountain base. Snowshoe a beautiful alpine valley or dogsled across Tierra Mayor. For a memorable night, combine either with an evening bonfire (US$130 to US$145). Also on offer are guided snowcat rides and a 4WD day trip to Lago Fagnano with canoeing and a barbecue. It’s 19km from Ushuaia via RN 3.
Tres Marías ExcursionesBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-15-611199, 02901-436416; www.tresmariasweb.com; Tourist Wharf)
The only outfitter with permission to land on Isla ‘H’ in the Isla Bridges natural reserve, which has shell mounds and a colony of rock cormorants. Its small, picturesque sailboat takes only eight passengers.
TolkarTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-431408, 02901-431412; www.tolkarturismo.com.ar; Roca 157)
Tolkar is a helpful, popular, all-round agency, affiliated with Tecni-Austral buses.
Ushuaia TurismoTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-436003; www.ushuaiaturismoevt.com.ar; Gobernador Paz 865)
Offers last-minute Antarctica-cruise bookings.
4Sleeping
Camping MunicipalCAMPGROUND$
(RN 3; campsites free)
About 10km west of town, en route to Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, this campground boasts a lovely setting but minimal facilities.
oAntarctica HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-435774; www.antarcticahostel.com; Antártida Argentina 270; dm/d US$26/97; 
iW)
This friendly backpacker hub delivers with a warm atmosphere and helpful staff. The open floor plan and beer on tap are plainly conducive to making friends. Guests lounge and play cards in the common room and cook in a cool balcony kitchen. Cement rooms are clean and ample, with radiant floor heating.
Hostel Cruz del SurHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-434099; www.xdelsur.com.ar; Deloquí 242; dm US$25; iW)
This easygoing, organized hostel comprises two renovated houses (1920 and 1926), painted tangerine and joined by a passageway. Dorm prices are based on room capacity, the only disadvantage being that your bathroom might be on another floor. There’s a fine backyard patio, though indoor shared spaces are scant. Discounts are given for stays longer than four nights.
La PostaHOSTEL$
(%02901-444650; www.lapostahostel.com.ar; Perón Sur 864; dm/d US$22/65; iW)
This cozy hostel and guesthouse on the outskirts of town is hugely popular with young travelers thanks to its warm service, homey decor and spotless open kitchen. The downside is that the place is far from the town center, but buses and taxis are plentiful.
Los CormoranesHOSTEL$
(%02901-423459; www.loscormoranes.com; Kamshen 788; dm US$31-40, d/tr/q US$107/132/155; iW)
This friendly, mellow HI hostel is a 10-minute (uphill) walk north of downtown. Six-bed dorms, some with private bathrooms, have radiant-heated floors and face outdoor plank hallways. Doubles have polished-cement floors and down duvets – the best is room 10, with bay views. Linens could use an update and common spaces are so-so. Breakfast includes DIY eggs and fresh-squeezed OJ.
YakushHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-435807; www.hostelyakush.com; Piedrabuena 118; dm US$23-25, d with/without bathroom US$85/75; hmid-Oct–mid-Apr; iW)
A colorful hostel that, while friendly and centrally located, seems a bit expensive for what you get.
oGaleazzi-Basily B&BB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-423213; www.avesdelsur.com.ar; Valdéz 323; s/d without bathroom US$45/65, 2-/4-person cabins US$110/140; iW)
The best feature of this elegant wooded residence is its warm, hospitable family of owners, who will make you feel right at home. Rooms are small but offer a personal touch. Since beds are twin-size, couples may prefer a modern cabin out the back. It’s a peaceful spot, and where else can you practice your English, French, Italian and Portuguese?
Familia Piatti B&BB&B$$
(%02901-15-613485, 02901-437104; www.familiapiatti.com; Bahía Paraíso 812, Bosque del Faldeo; d US$80, ste US$139-190; iW) S
If idling in the forest sounds good, head for this friendly B&B just five minutes outside town, with warm down duvets and native lenga-wood furniture. Hiking trails nearby lead up into the mountains. The friendly owners are multilingual (speaking English, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese) and can arrange transportation and guided excursions. Check the website for directions to get there.
Mysten KepenGUESTHOUSE$$
(%02901-430156, 02901-15-497391; http://mystenkepen.blogspot.com; Rivadavia 826; d/tr/q US$94/144/175; W)
If you want an authentic Argentine family experience, this is it. Hosts Roberto and Rosario recount stories of favorite guests from years past, and their immaculate two-kid home feels busy and lived in – in a good way. Rooms have newish installations, bright corduroy duvets and handy shelving for nighttime reading. Airport transfers and winter discounts are available.
Martín Fierro B&BB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-430525; www.martinfierrobyb.com.ar; 9 de Julio 175; s/d US$70/110; hSep-Apr; pW)
Spending a night at this charming inn feels like staying at the cool mountain cabin of a worldly friend who makes strong coffee and has a great book collection. The owner, Javier, personally built the interiors with local wood and stone; these days he cultivates a friendly, laid-back atmosphere where travelers get into deep conversations at the breakfast table.
Posada Fin del MundoB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-437345; www.posadafindelmundo.com.ar; cnr Rivadavia & Valdéz; d US$140)
This expansive home exudes good taste and character, from the snug living room with folk art and expansive water views to the friendly chocolate lab. Of the nine distinctive rooms (some are small), the best are upstairs. Breakfast is abundant and there’s also afternoon tea and cakes. The B&B is sometimes booked out by ski teams in winter.
La Casa de Tere B&BB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-422312; www.lacasadetere.com.ar; Rivadavia 620; d with/without bathroom US$120/85)
Tere showers guests with attention but also gives them the run of the place in this beautiful modern home with great views. The three tidy rooms fill up fast. Guests can cook, and there’s cable TV and a fireplace in the living room. It’s a short but steep walk uphill from the town center.
ArakurHOTEL$$$
(%02901-442900; www.arakur.com; Cerro Alarken; d with valley/ocean view US$370/400; p
aiW
s)
Towering over the city on a wooded promontory, Arakur is the town’s latest luxury hotel, well known to locals for hosting an annual music festival. The look is sleek and modern, with neutral tones and personalized service, and the views are beyond comparison. Rooms feature electronic control panels and glass-walled bathrooms. The indoor-outdoor infinity pool is warm year-round.
Los Cauquenes Resort & SpaRESORT$$$
(%02901-441300; www.loscauquenes.com; d from US$275; iWs)
This exclusive, sprawling wooden lodge sits directly on the Beagle Channel in a private neighborhood with gravel-road access. Rooms are tasteful and well appointed; special features include a playroom stocked with kids’ games and outdoor terraces with glass windbreaks and stunning channel views. Free shuttles go downtown every few hours. It’s 4km west of the airport.
There’s also a spa, a sauna and an indoor-outdoor pool. The spa features yerba maté scrubs and Andean peat masks.
Cabañas del BeagleCABIN$$$
(%02901-15-511323, 02901-432785; www.cabanasdelbeagle.com; Las Aljabas 375; 2-person cabins US$140)
Couples in search of a romantic hideaway delight in these rustic-chic cabins with heated stone floors, crackling fireplaces, and full kitchens stocked daily with fresh bread, coffee and other treats. Personable owner Alejandro wins high praise for his attentive service. It’s 13 blocks uphill from the town center and accessed via Av Leandro Alem. Four-night minimum stay.
Cabañas Aldea NevadaCABIN$$$
(%02901-422851; www.aldeanevada.com.ar; Martial 1430; 2-/4-person cabins from US$140/190; iW)
You expect the elves to arrive here any minute. This beautiful 6-hectare patch of lenga forest has 13 privately situated log cabins with outdoor grills. Interiors are rustic but modern, with functional kitchens, wood stoves and hardwood details. Rough-hewn benches are contemplatively placed by the ponds, and there’s a gazebo overlooking the Beagle Channel. Two-night minimum stay.
Cumbres del MartialINN$$$
(%02901-424779; www.cumbresdelmartial.com.ar; Martial 3560; d/cabins US$220/340; iW)
This stylish place sits at the base of the Glaciar Martial. Standard rooms have a touch of English cottage, while the two-story wooden cabins are simply stunning, with stone fireplaces, Jacuzzis and dazzling vaulted windows. Lush robes, optional massages (extra) and your country’s newspaper delivered to your mailbox are some of the fabulous details.
Mil 810HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-437710; www.hotel1810.com; 25 de Mayo 245; d US$200; i)
Billed as boutique, this is more like a small upscale hotel. The design is modern with elements of nature, such as a retaining wall of river stones and a rock face trickling with water. Its 38 rooms feature brocade walls, rich tones, luxuriant textures and touches of abstract art. Rooms have flat-screen TVs and safes, and halls are monitored.
5Eating
oAlmacen Ramos GeneralesCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-424-7317; Av Maipú 749; mains AR$73-175; h9am-midnight)
With its quirky memorabilia and postings about local environmental issues, this warm and cozy former general store is a peek inside the real Ushuaia. Locals hold their powwows here. Croissants and crusty baguettes are baked daily. There’s also local beer on tap, a wine list, and light fare such as sandwiches, soups and quiche.
Cafe Bar BananaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-435035; Av San Martín 273; mains AR$80-150; h8am-1am)
Serving homemade burgers and fries, sandwiches, and steak and eggs, this is a local favorite for high-octane, low-cost dining with friends.
FreddoICE CREAM$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av San Martín 209; h9:30am-12:30am)
One of Argentina’s most-loved gelato shops has opened its doors in snowbound Ushuaia – and suddenly it’s summer.
Tante SaraCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-433710; cnr Rivadavia & Av San Martín; mains AR$60-130; h8am-8:30pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat)
Offers nice pastries and weekend brunch.
El TurcoCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-424711; Av San Martín 1410; mains AR$70-130; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight)
Nothing fancy, this classic, dated Argentine cafe nonetheless charms with inexpensive prices and swift-footed bow-tied waiters who want to try out their French on tourists. Standard dishes include milanesa (breaded meat), pizzas, crispy fries and roast chicken.
Lomitos MartinicaARGENTINE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-432134; Av San Martín 68; mains AR$85-125; h11:30am-3pm & 8:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Cheap and cheerful, and full of locals getting takeout, this greasy spoon with grill-side seating serves enormous milanesa (breaded meat) sandwiches and offers a cheap lunch special.
La AnónimaSUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Gobernador Paz & Rivadavia; h9am-10pm)
A grocery store with cheap takeout.
VolverSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-423977; Av Maipú 37)
Self-promoted as serving up ceviche de la puta madre (politely translated as ‘fantastic seafood’), this place is run by a charismatic chef loved by locals. The food is served simply but is of incredible quality. Those who think they don’t like king crab should give it a second chance here: there are no added sauces and the crab’s cooked to perfection.
Bodegón FueguinoPATAGONIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-431972; Av San Martín 859; mains AR$130-250; hnoon-2:45pm & 8-11:45pm Tue-Sun)
The spot to sample hearty home-style Patagonian fare or gather for wine and appetizers. Painted peach, this century-old Fuegian home is cozied up with sheepskin-clad benches, cedar barrels and ferns. A picada (shared appetizer plate) for two includes eggplant, lamb brochettes, crab and bacon-wrapped plums.
Paso GaribaldiARGENTINE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-432380; Deloquí 133; mains AR$180-290; hnoon-2:30pm & 7-11:30pm Tue-Sat, 7-11:30pm Sun)
Serving hearty local fare including black-bean stew, flavorful salads and roasted hake, this new addition is refreshingly without pretension. The recycled decor looks a little too improvised, but service couldn’t be more attentive and dishes are well priced.
Küar 1900TAPAS$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-436807; http://kuar.com.ar; 2nd fl, Av San Martín 471; mains AR$120-180; hnoon-3:30pm & 6:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Serves artisan meat and cheese plates, seafood platters to share and local artisan beer, all in a low-lit ambience. There’s more variety at the coastal location.
ChristopherPARRILLA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-425079; www.christopherushuaia.com.ar; Av Maipú 828; mains AR$120-280; hnoon-3pm & 8pm-midnight, to 1am Sat; p)
This classic grill and brewpub is deservedly popular with locals. Standouts include barbecue ribs, big salads and burgers. It’s good value, with generous portions that you might want to share and a talented bartender mixing cocktails. Grab a table by the window for great harbor views.
La EstanciaSTEAK$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-431421; cnr Godoy & Av San Martín; mains AR$120-240; hnoon-3pm & 8-11pm)
For authentic Argentine asado (barbecue), it’s hard to beat this reliable, well-priced grill. There are many others along the main drag, but this is the one that consistently delivers. Enthusiastic appetites should go for the tenedor libre (all you can eat). Locals and travelers feast on whole roast lamb, juicy steaks, sizzling ribs and heaping salads.
ChikoSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-431736; www.chikorestaurant.com.ar; 25 de Mayo 62; mains AR$140-300; hnoon-3pm & 7:30-11:30pm Mon-Sat)
At this boon to seafood-lovers, crisp oversized calamari rings, paila marina (shellfish stew) and fish dishes like abadejo a pil pil (pollock in garlic sauce) are done so well that you might not mind the slowish service. An odd assemblage of homeland memorabilia suggests that the Chilean owners are a touch homesick.
Placeres PatagónicosARGENTINE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-433798; www.facebook.com/Placeres-Patagonicos-Ushuaia-178544198846139; 289 Deloquí; snacks AR$65, tablas from AR$100; hnoon-midnight)
This stylish cafe-deli serves tablas (wooden cutting boards) piled with homemade bread and mouthwatering local specialties like smoked trout and wild boar. It’s a good place to sip mate (a bitter ritual tea) with a plate of tortas fritas (fry bread). Coffee arrives steaming in a bowl-sized mug.
Küar Resto BarPUB FOOD$$
(%02901-437396; http://kuar.com.ar; Av Perito Moreno 2232; mains AR$115-300; h6pm-late)
This chic log-cabin-style hangout offers local beer, cheese boards and tapas, as well as complete dinners with ample fresh seafood. The interior is stylish, but the highlight, especially at sunset, is the jaw-dropping view over the water. It’s five minutes from the center by cab, or visit Küar 1900, the smaller downtown venue focused on tapas.
Tante SaraCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-423912; www.tantesara.com; cnr Av San Martín & Juana Fadul; mains AR$154-265; h8am-2am)
This corner bistro, frequented by tourists and locals alike, serves the usual suspects in a warm atmosphere. For a late-night bite, this is your best bet – it’s the only kitchen open until 2am. The burger menu is creative and extensive.
oKalma RestoINTERNATIONAL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-425786; www.kalmaresto.com.ar; Valdéz 293; mains AR$350-470, 5-course tasting menu AR$950; h7-11pm Mon-Sat)
This gem presents Fuegian staples like crab and octopus in a creative new context. Black sea bass wears a tart tomato sauce for contrast; there’s stuffed lamb seasoned with pepper and rosemary; and the summer greens and edible flowers come fresh from the garden. It’s gourmet at its least pretentious. The wine list is mind-blowing.
Service is stellar, with charismatic yet humble young chef Jorge making the rounds and sharing his enthusiasm for harvesting local ingredients. For dessert, splurge with a not-too-sweet deconstructed chocolate cake.
oKaupéINTERNATIONAL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-422704; www.kaupe.com.ar; Roca 470; mains AR$300-500)
For an out-of-body seafood experience, make a reservation at this candlelit house overlooking the bay. Chef Ernesto Vivian employs the freshest of everything and service is impeccable. The tasting menu features two starters, a main dish and dessert, with standouts such as king crab and spinach chowder or black sea bass in blackened butter.
Chez ManuINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%02901-432253; www.chezmanu.com; Martial 2135; mains AR$190-300)
Heading to Glaciar Martial? Don’t miss this quality place right on the way. It’s just 2km from town, but you’ll feel you’re in the middle of nature. Chef Emmanuel adds a French touch to fresh local ingredients, such as Fuegian lamb or mixed plates of cold fruits de mer (seafood), and service is exceptional. The three-course set lunch is the best deal.
Incredible views are a welcome bonus.
María Lola RestóARGENTINE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-421185; www.marialolaresto.com.ar; Deloquí 1048; mains AR$250-400; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat; p)
This creative cafe-style restaurant overlooks the channel. Locals pack in for homemade pasta with seafood or strip steak in rich mushroom sauce; the weekday set lunch or dinner with an included drink is AR$500. Service is good and portions tend toward the humongous: desserts can easily be split. It’s among the few downtown restaurants with off-street parking.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Dublin Irish PubIRISH PUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-430744; 9 de Julio 168; h7pm-4am)
Dublin doesn’t feel so far away at this dimly lit pub. Popular with the locals, it’s the scene of lively banter and free-flowing drinks. Look out for occasional live music and be sure to try at least one of its three local Beagle beers. Arrive by 9pm if you want to score a seat.
ViagroBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-421617; Roca 55; h8pm-4am)
If you can get past the unfortunate name, this cocktail nook is the perfect low-lit rendezvous spot, with exotic concoctions and appetizing tapas to fuel your night out. There’s dancing on Saturday nights.
3Entertainment
Casa de la Cultura Performing ArtsPERFORMING ARTS
(%02901-422417; cnr Malvinas Argentinas & 12 de Octubre)
Hidden behind a gym, this place hosts occasional live-music shows. It’s 6km north of the center via Av Maipú.
7Shopping
Quelhue Wine ShopWINE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-435882; www.quelhue.com.ar; Av San Martín 253; h9:30am-9:15pm)
They don’t seem to sell a bad bottle of wine in the whole place. This is a wine-lover’s paradise, with floor-to-ceiling shelves stocked to the brim with Argentina’s best reds, whites and sparklings. It also sells a solid selection of perfect picnic food: dried meats, a wide range of cheeses and quality chocolates.
Paseo de los ArtesanosMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Plaza 25 de Mayo)
This indoor artists market sells handmade jewelry, wool crafts, traditional mates and other household items. The majority of vendors only accept Argentine pesos, so bring cash. Hours vary depending on season and vendor, but most stalls are open between noon and 7pm. It’s right next to the main port.
Boutique del LibroBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %02901-424750; Av San Martín 1120)
Outstanding selection of Patagonia- and Antarctica-themed material, with literature, guidebooks and pictorials (also in English).
8Information
Several banks on Avs Maipú and San Martín have ATMs.
Antarctica Tourist Office (%02901-430015; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar/antartida; Av Maipú 505; hwith ship in port 9am-5pm) Very helpful office at the pier.
All Patagonia (%02901-433622; www.allpatagonia.com; Juana Fadul 48; h10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Amex rep offering conventional and luxurious trips.
Asociación Caza y Pesca (%02901-422423, 02901-423168; www.cazaypescaushuaia.org; Av Maipú 822) Contact Asociación Caza y Pesca for a License 1, valid throughout the province, except in Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego. Its website also has tidal charts.
Automóvil Club Argentino (ACA; www.aca.org.ar; cnr Malvina Argentinas & Onachaga) Argentina’s auto club; good source for provincial road maps.
Club Andino Ushuaia (%02901-422335, 02901-440732; www.clubandinoushuaia.com.ar; Refugio Wallner, LN Alem 2873; h10am-1pm & 3-8pm Mon-Fri) Sells a map and bilingual trekking, mountaineering and mountain-biking guidebook. The club occasionally organizes hikes and can recommend guides. Located 5km west of Ushuaia.
Freestyle Adventure Travel (%02901-609792, 02901-606661; www.freestyleadventuretravel.com; Gobernador Paz 866) An energetic agency with great last-minute Antarctica and Cape Horn deals and complete service in English. A member of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators and donates 1% for the planet. Head to its office, lovingly referred to as ‘The Bunker,’ and warm up with a cup of coffee as you chat about trip options.
Hospital Regional (%ext 107, 02901-423200; cnr Fitz Roy & 12 de Octubre) Emergency services. It’s southwest of the center via Av Maipú.
Instituto Fueguino de Turismo (Infuetur; %02901-421423; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar; Av Maipú 505) Tourism office for Tierra del Fuego. Ask here about the development of island trekking routes called Huella del Fin del Mundo. It’s on the ground floor of Hotel Albatros.
Municipal Tourist Office (%02901-437666; www.turismoushuaia.com; Prefectura Naval 470; h8am-9pm) Very helpful, with English- and French-speaking staff, a message board and multilingual brochures, as well as good lodging, activities and transportation info. It also posts a list of available lodgings outside after closing time. There’s a second office at the airport (%02901-423970; www.turismoushuaia.com; hduring flight arrivals).
National Parks Administration (%02901-421315; Av San Martín 1395; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Offers information on Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego.
Post Office (cnr Av San Martín & Godoy; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)
Rumbo Sur (%02901-421139; www.rumbosur.com.ar; Av San Martín 350; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Ushuaia’s longest-running agency specializes in conventional activities, plus a catamaran harbor cruise. It also handles bookings to Antarctica.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
LAN is the best bet for Buenos Aires; purchase tickets through local travel agencies. Aerolíneas Argentinas (%0810-2228-6527; www.aerolineas.com.ar; cnr Av Maipú & 9 de Julio) jets to Buenos Aires (one way 3½ hours) several times daily, sometimes stopping in El Calafate (70 minutes).
LADE (%02901-421123, in Buenos Aires 011-5353-2387; www.lade.com.ar; Av San Martín 542) flies to Buenos Aires, El Calafate and Río Grande, and may serve other destinations.
BOAT
For Puerto Williams (Chile), Ushuaia Boating (%02901-609030; www.ushuaiaboating.com; Tourist Wharf s/n; 1-way US$120) goes daily in Zodiac boats. Tickets include a 40-minute crossing plus an overland transfer from Puerto Navarino. Note: inclement weather often means cancellations. Options include a 9:30am departure and sometimes (with sufficient demand) a 6pm departure. Another option to Puerto Williams is offered by Piratour.
A small tasa de embarque (departure tax) is paid at the pier.
BUS
Ushuaia has no bus terminal. Book outgoing bus tickets as far in advance as possible; many readers have complained about getting stuck here in high season. Depending on your luck, long waits at border crossings can be expected.
Bus Sur (%02901-430727; http://bussur.com; Av San Martín 245) has buses to Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales (Chile) three times weekly at 8am, connecting with Montiel services. It shares an office with Turismo Comapa, which also does tours and runs ferries in Chile.
Tecni-Austral (%02901-431408; www.busbud.com; Roca 157) buses head daily to Río Grande and Río Gallegos via Tolhuin, and to Punta Arenas three times weekly. Taqsa (%02901-435453; www.taqsa.com.ar; Juana Fadul 126) also has 7am buses to Río Grande and Rio Gallegos via Tolhuin; buses to Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales three times weekly; and buses to Río Gallegos, El Calafate and Bariloche daily.
Lider (%02901-442264, 02901-436421; http://lidertdf.com.ar; Gobernador Paz 921) runs door-to-door minivans to Tolhuin and Río Grande six to eight times daily, with fewer departures on Sunday. Montiel (Transporte Montiel; %02901-421366; Gobernador Paz 605) has similar services.
| DESTINATION | COST (AR$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| El Calafate | 1190 | 18 |
| Punta Arenas, Chile | 920 | 12 |
| Río Gallegos | 785 | 13 |
| Río Grande | 410 | 3½ |
| Tolhuin | 260 | 1½ |
8Getting Around
Taxis to/from the modern airport, 4km southwest of downtown, cost AR$120. Taxis can be chartered for around AR$1300 for three hours. There’s a local bus service along Av Maipú.
Rental rates for compact cars, including insurance, start at around AR$800 per day; try Localiza (%02901-430739; www.localiza.com; Av Maipú 768). Some agencies may not charge for drop-off in other parts of Argentine Tierra del Fuego.
Hourly ski shuttles (AR$250 round-trip) leave from the corner of Juana Fadul and Av Maipú to resorts along RN 3 from 9am to 2pm daily. Each resort also provides its own transportation from downtown Ushuaia.
DON’T MISS
ESTANCIA HARBERTON
Tierra del Fuego’s first estancia, Harberton (%Skype estanciaharberton.turismo; www.estanciaharberton.com; entrance adult/child AR$240/free, dm US$50, s/d incl full board & activities US$325/580; h10am-7pm Oct 15-Apr 15), was founded in 1886 by missionary Thomas Bridges and his family. The location earned fame from a stirring memoir written by Bridges’ son Lucas, titled Uttermost Part of the Earth, about his coming of age among the now-extinct Selk’nam and Yaghan people. Available in English, the book is an excellent introduction to the history of the region and the ways of the indigenous peoples.
In a splendid location, the estancia is owned and run by Thomas Bridges’ descendants. There’s lodging available and day visitors can take guided tours (featuring the island’s oldest house and a replica Yaghan dwelling), dine at the restaurant and visit the Reserva Yecapasela penguin colony. It’s also a popular destination for birdwatchers.
The impressive Museo Acatushún (www.estanciaharberton.com/museoacatushunenglish.html; entrance with estancia visit adult/child AR$240/free) was created by Natalie Prosser Goodall, a North American biologist who married into the extended Bridges family. Emphasizing the region’s marine mammals, the museum has inventoried thousands of mammal and bird specimens; among the rarest is a Hector’s beaked whale. Much of this vast collection was found at Bahía San Sebastián, north of Río Grande, where an 11km difference between high and low tides leaves creatures stranded. Confirm the museum’s opening hours with Estancia Harberton.
Harberton is 85km east of Ushuaia via RN 3 and rough RC-j, a 1½- to two-hour drive. In Ushuaia, shuttles leave from the base of 25 de Mayo at Av Maipú at 9am, returning around 3pm. Day-long catamaran tours are organized by local agencies.
Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego
Banked against the Beagle Channel, the hushed, fragrant southern forests of Tierra del Fuego are a stunning setting to explore. West of Ushuaia some 12km along RN 3, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego (www.parquesnacionales.gob.ar; AR$350, collected 8am-8pm) was Argentina’s first coastal national park, extending 630 sq km from the Beagle Channel in the south to beyond Lago Fagnano in the north.
There’s access to the southern edge of the park with scenic hikes along bays and rivers, or through dense native forests. For spectacular color, come in autumn, when hillsides of ñire glow red.
Birdlife is prolific, especially along the coastal zone. Keep an eye out for condors, albatross, cormorants, gulls, terns, oystercatchers, grebes, kelp geese and the comical, flightless, orange-billed steamer ducks. Common invasive species include the European rabbit and the North American beaver, both wreaking ecological havoc despite their cuteness. Gray and red foxes, enjoying the abundance of rabbits, may also be seen.
2Activities
After running 3242km from Buenos Aires, RN 3 reaches its terminus at the shores of Bahía Lapataia. From here, trails Mirador Lapataia (500m), with excellent views, and Senda Del Turbal (400m) lead through winding lenga forest further into the bay. Other short walks include the self-guided nature trail Senda Laguna Negra (950m), through peat bogs, and the Senda Castorera (400m), showcasing massive abandoned beaver dams on a few ponds.
At the end of the road to Lago Roca, a flat trail (a 10km four-hour round-trip) leads around Lago Roca’s forested northeast shore to Hito XXIV – veinticuatro in Spanish – the boundary post that marks the Argentina–Chile frontier. It is illegal to cross the frontier, which is patrolled regularly.
From the same trailhead you can reach Cerro Guanaco (973m) via the steep and difficult 8km trail of the same name; it’s a long, uphill haul, but the views are excellent.
4Sleeping
There is plenty of availability for camping at wild sites. Camping Ensenada is 16km from the park entrance and nearest the Senda Costera trail; Camping Río Pipo is 6km from the entrance and easily accessed by either the road to Cañadon del Toro or the Senda Pampa Alta trail. Camping Laguna Verde and Camping Los Cauquenes are on the islands in Río Lapataia. There are no amenities at any of the sites; contact the park visitor center, Centro de Visitantes Alakush (h9am-7pm, shorter hours Mar-Nov), for more information.
The park has closed the fee-based campground at Lago Roca but is planning a new campground with showers in a yet-to-be-determined location.
8Getting There & Away
Taxi fares here shared between groups can be the same price as bus tickets. Private tour buses also make the trip.
The most touristy and, beyond jogging, the slowest way to the park, El Tren del Fin del Mundo (%02901-431600; www.trendelfindelmundo.com.ar; adult/child plus park entrance fee AR$790/150) originally carted prisoners to work camps. It departs (without the convicts) from the Estación del Fin del Mundo, 8km west of Ushuaia, three or four times daily in summer and once or twice daily in winter.
The one-hour, scenic narrow-gauge train ride has historical explanations in English and Spanish. Reservations are needed in January and February, when cruise-ship tours take over. You can take it one way and return via minibus, though the train fare is the same one way or round-trip.
Hitchhiking to the park is feasible, but many cars may already be full.
Tolhuin & Lago Fagnano
%02901
Named for the Selk’nam word meaning ‘like a heart,’ Tolhuin (population 2000) is a lake town nestled in the center of Tierra del Fuego, 132km south of Río Grande and 104km northeast of Ushuaia via smooth asphalt roads. Muddy streets and clear-cut forests mark this fast-growing frontier town that fronts the eastern shore of Lago Fagnano, also known as Lago Kami. Shared with Chile, the glacial-formed Lago Fagnano has some low-key horseback riding, mountain biking, boating and fishing.
1Sights
Museo Histórico KamiMUSEUM
(tdf@gmail.com; Lago Fagnano s/n; h3-7pm Tue-Sun) 
F
If you make one stop in Tolhuin, check out this museum, which is especially worthwhile for Spanish speakers. A former 1920s police post, the little house is now dedicated to regional history, starting with the Selk’nam people. One exhibit documents community members’ stories of the still-recent pioneer times. It’s next to Camping Hain, on Lago Fagnano. Don’t be too shy to ask for a tour.
Parque HainAMUSEMENT PARK
(Parque de Diversiones Reciclado; Lago Fagnano s/n; adult/child AR$50/20; h9am-5pm; c)
The product of a creative mind that never sleeps, this offbeat playground is styled entirely from recycled materials, namely 5000 wooden pallets, tires fashioned into playforms and bottles forming decorative motifs. Created by Roberto Barbel, who also owns the campground across the street with similar whimsy on display, it’s a kick to take in.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hostería Ruta Al SurHOTEL$$
(%02901-492278; RN 3, Km2954; d incl breakfast US$125; hmid-Oct–Apr; iWs)
On the main road, this lovely lodge set among old beech trees is a bit of a surprise. So is the uneven service. There are sparkling rooms, a sprawling living room and a restaurant serving basic breakfasts. Confirm rates in advance since foreigners may be charged more (to be fair, it has rates for Tierra del Fuego residents and nonresidents too).
Panadería La UniónBAKERY$
(%02901-492202; www.panaderialaunion.com.ar; Jeujepen 450; snacks AR$100; h24hr)
First-rate facturas (pastries) and second-rate instant cappuccinos keep this roadside attraction hopping. You may or may not recognize the Argentine celebrities gracing the walls (hint: the men are aging rock stars). Buses stop here to pick up passengers and hot water for mate (a bitter ritual tea).
8Information
Banco de Tierra del Fuego (%02901-492030; Minkiol s/n; h10am-3pm Tue-Fri) Has an ATM.
Tourist Office (%02901-492125; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar; Av de los Shelknam 80; h8am-10pm Mon-Fri) Provides information on hiking, horseback-riding tours and gear rentals. It’s located behind the gas station. Those coming from Ushuaia might get more complete info from Ushuaia’s tourist office.
8Getting There & Away
Throughout the day, buses and minivans passing along RN 3 (often already full in high season) stop at the Panadería La Unión bakery en route to Ushuaia or Río Grande (AR$280).
Río Grande
%02964 / POP 66,500
A monster trout sculpture at the entrance to town announces the de facto fly-fishing capital of Tierra del Fuego, with world-class blue-ribbon angling for colossal sea-run trout. But nonfishers will likely blow through windswept Río Grande and hop a bus to Ushuaia, 230km southwest.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel VillaHOTEL$
(%02964-424998; www.hotelvilla-riogrande.com; Av San Martín 281; d/tr US$57/77; piW)
Opposite Casino Status, this refurbished place has a dozen spacious and stylish rooms outfitted with down duvets, breakfast with medialunas (croissants) and a popular restaurant.
Posada de los SaucesHOTEL$$
(%02964-432895; http://posadadelossauces.com; Elcano 839; d US$97; iW)
Catering mostly to high-end anglers, this warm and professional hotel fosters a lodge atmosphere, with fresh scents and woodsy accents. Deluxe rooms have Jacuzzis. The upstairs bar-restaurant, decked out in dark wood and forest green, is just waiting for stogies and tall tales to fill the air.
Don PepponeITALIAN$$
(%02964-432066; Perito Moreno 247; mains AR$180-250; hnoon-midnight Tue-Sun)
On weekends there’s a dose of madness in this busy pizzeria, with gooey brick-oven creations as well as a huge variety of pastas and meat dishes. Credit cards are accepted.
Tante SaraCAFE$$
(%02964-421114; Av San Martín 192; mains AR$120-280; h8am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat)
An upscale chain in Tierra del Fuego, this nonetheless cozy spot hosts both ladies having tea and cake, and boys at the varnished bar downing beer and burgers. Salads (including romaine, egg, blue cheese and bacon) are surprisingly good, although service can be quite sluggish.
8Information
Instituto Fueguino de Turismo (Infuetur; %02964-426805; www.tierradelfuego.org.ar; Av Belgrano 319; h9am-9pm) Supplies tourist information for all of Argentine Tierra del Fuego.
Municipal Tourist Kiosk (%02964-431324; turismo@riogrande.gob.ar; Rosales 350; h9am-8pm) Helpful kiosk on Plaza Almirante Brown, with maps, estancia brochures and fishing details.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The airport (%02964-420699) is a short taxi ride from town, off RN 3. Aerolíneas Argentinas (%02964-424467; Av San Martín 607; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) flies daily to Buenos Aires. LADE (%02964-422968; Lasserre 429; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri) flies a couple of times weekly to Río Gallegos, El Calafate and Buenos Aires. New low-cost airlines plan to offer flights to Buenos Aires, Ushuaia and El Calafate. Aviación Civil Argentina (ANAC; www.anac.gob.ar) has a map with new routes and airlines.
BUS
The following bus companies depart from Terminal Fuegina (Finocchio 1194):
Bus Sur (%02964-420997; www.bus-sur.cl; 25 de Mayo 712) Buses to Ushuaia, Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales three times weekly at 5:30am, connecting with Montiel. (Note that the separate ticket office is on 25 de Mayo.)
Buses Pacheco (%02964-421554) Buses to Punta Arenas three times weekly at 10am.
Taqsa/Marga (%02964-434316) Buses to Ushuaia via Tolhuin.
Tecni-Austral (%02964-430610) Buses to Ushuaia via Tolhuin three times weekly at 8:30am; also to Río Gallegos and Punta Arenas three times weekly.
Other buses:
Lider (%02964-420003; www.lidertdf.com.ar; Av Belgrano 1122) The best option for Ushuaia and Tolhuin is this door-to-door minivan service, with several daily departures. Call to reserve.
Montiel (%02964-420997; 25 de Mayo 712) Buses to Ushuaia and Tolhuin.
| DESTINATION | COST (AR$) | HOURS |
|---|---|---|
| Punta Arenas, Chile | 900 | 9 |
| Río Gallegos | 750 | 8 |
| Tolhuin | 280 | 2 |
| Ushuaia | 370 | 4 |