Easter Island (Rapa Nui)
Hanga Roa
Parque Nacional Rapa Nui
Understand Easter Island
Easter Island Today
History
Culture
Arts
Environment
Survival Guide
Easter Island (Rapa Nui)
Why Go?
Few areas in the world possess a more mystical pull than this tiny speck of land, one of the most isolated places on Earth. It’s hard to feel connected to Chile, over 3700km to the east, let alone the wider world. Endowed with the most logic-defying statues on the planet – the strikingly familiar moai – Easter Island (Rapa Nui to its native Polynesian inhabitants) emanates a magnetic, mysterious vibe.
But Easter Island is much more than an open-air museum. Diving, snorkeling and surfing are fabulous. On land, there’s no better ecofriendly way to experience the island’s savage beauty than on foot, from a bike saddle or on horseback. But if all you want to do is recharge the batteries, a couple of superb expanses of white sand beckon.
Although Easter Island is world famous and visitors are on the increase, everything remains small and personable – it’s all about ecotravel.
When to Go
- Jan–Mar Peak season. Highest prices and scarce hotels around February’s Tapati Rapa Nui festival.
- Jul–Sep Chilly weather, not ideal for beaches but a good time for hiking and horseback riding.
- Apr–Jun & Oct–Dec The shoulder season is not a bad time to visit; the climate is fairly temperate.
Best Places to Eat
A Te Moana
Best Places to Stay
Easter Island (Rapa Nui) Highlights
1 Rano Raraku Taking a lesson in archaeology at this ‘nursery’ of the moai.
2 Ahu Tongariki Watching the sun rise above a row of enigmatic statues.
3 Anakena Having a snooze under the swaying palms of this alluring beach.
4 Orongo Ceremonial Village Pondering the island’s mysterious past at this village perched on the edge of Rano Kau.
5 Northern Coast Hiking along the rugged trails of the island’s least-visited corner.
6 Motu Nui Ogling the limpid blue waters on a snorkeling or diving trip around this tiny islet.
7 Península Poike Dipping into caves and climbing to volcanic domes on the rambling trails of this windswept peninsula.
8 Maunga Terevaka Clip-clopping on the flanks of an extinct volcano.
Hanga Roa
%32 / POP 8300
Hanga Roa is the island’s sole town. Upbeat it ain’t, but with most sights almost on its doorstep and nearly all the island’s hotels, restaurants, shops and services lying within its boundaries, it’s the obvious place to anchor oneself. It features a picturesque fishing harbor, a couple of modest swimming holes and surf spots, and a few archaeological sites.
1Sights
Ahu TahaiARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Ahu Tahai is a highly photogenic site that contains three restored ahu (ceremonial platform). Ahu Tahai proper is the ahu in the middle, supporting a large, solitary moai (large anthropomorphic statue) with no topknot. On the north side of Ahu Tahai is Ahu Ko Te Riku, with a topknotted and eyeballed moai. On the other side is Ahu Vai Uri, which supports five moai of varying sizes and shapes. Along the hills are foundations of hare paenga (traditional houses resembling an upturned canoe, with a narrow doorway).
Museo Antropológico Sebastián EnglertMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1020; www.museorapanui.cl; Sector Tahai; 
h9:30am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, to 12:30pm Sat & Sun) 
F
This well-organized museum makes a perfect introduction to the island’s history and culture. It displays basalt fishhooks, obsidian spearheads and other weapons, circular beehive-shaped huts, petroglyphs, funerary cists and a rare female moai. It also features replica Rongo-Rongo tablets, covered in rows of tiny symbols resembling hieroglyphs.
Researchers have proposed various theories on the nature of the script, but it’s still an enigma to decipher.
Caleta Hanga PikoHARBOR
Easily overlooked by visitors, the little Caleta Hanga Piko is used by local fishers. Facing away from the caleta, the restored Ahu Riata supports a solitary moai.
Caleta Hanga RoaBAY
Your first encounter with the moai will probably take place at Ahu Tautira, which overlooks Caleta Hanga Roa, the fishing port in Hanga Roa at the foot of Av Te Pito o Te Henua. Many dive outfits operate out of here, and there are some ocean-kissed restaurants and cafes.
Ahu TautiraARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Policarpo Toro)
If you’ve just arrived and can’t wait for your first encounter with the moai (large anthropomorphic statues), head straight to Ahu Tautira. This site overlooks Caleta Hanga Roa, the fishing port in Hanga Roa at the foot of Av Te Pito o Te Henua. Here you’ll find a single ahu (ceremonial platform) with two superb moai.
Iglesia Hanga RoaCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Tu’u Koihu s/n)
The unmissable Iglesia Hanga Roa, the island’s Catholic church, is well worth a visit for its spectacular carvings, which integrate Christian doctrine with Rapa Nui tradition. It also makes a colorful scene on Sunday morning.
Centro de InterpretaciónPARK
(Sector Caleta Vaihu)
This new open-air interpretation center aims to help visitors better understand the rubble surrounding many of the island’s archaeological sites by bringing history to life. A replica village built of volcanic rocks here is replete with boat houses, earthen pits for cooking (umu pae), special stone chicken coups and mana vai (circular gardens surrounded by stone walls).
Ahu AkapuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
You’ll find this ahu with a solitary moai along the coastline, north of Hanga Roa.
Playa PeaBEACH
For a little dip, the tiny beach at Playa Pea, on the south side of Caleta Hanga Roa, fits the bill (though it’s more of a rocky cove than a sandy oasis).
2Activities
Diving & Snorkeling
Scuba diving is increasingly popular on Easter Island. The strong points are the gin-clear visibility (up to 50m), the lack of crowds, the dramatic seascape and the abundance of pristine coral formations. The weak point is marine life, which is noticeable only in its scarcity.
Easter Island is diveable year-round. Water temperatures vary from as low as 20°C in winter to 26°C in summer.
Most sites are scattered along the west coast. You don’t need to be a strong diver – there are sites for all levels. A few favorites include Motu Nui and the very scenic La Catedral and La Pyramide.
Mike Rapu Diving CenterDIVING, SNORKELING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1055; www.mikerapu.cl; Caleta Hanga Roa s/n; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Sat, extended hours Dec-Mar)
This well-established operator offers introductory dives (CH$40,000), single-dive trips (CH$35,000) and courses. Prices drop by about 15% for more than three dives. Also runs snorkeling trips (CH$25,000) to Motu Nui at least three days a week.
Orca Diving CenterDIVING, SNORKELING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-0877; www.orcadivingcenter.cl; Caleta Hanga Roa s/n; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat)
This state-of-the-art outfit offers the full slate of diving adventures, including introductory dives (CH$50,000 with underwater photos), single dives (CH$40,000), courses and packages, as well as snorkeling trips to Motu Nui (CH$28,000).
Surfing
Easter Island is hit with powerful swells from all points of the compass throughout the year, offering irresistible lefts and rights – mostly lava-reef breaks, with waves up to 5m. The most popular spots are scattered along the west coast. For beginners, there are a couple of good waves off Caleta Hanga Roa.
Hare OrcaSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-0877; Caleta Hanga Roa s/n; rental per half-day CH$10,000-15,000; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Attached to the Orca Diving Center, this shop rents bodyboards, surfboards, stand-up paddle boards and snorkeling gear.
Hiking
You can take some fantastic trails through the island. A memorable walk is the waymarked Ruta Patrimonial, which runs from Museo Antropológico Sebastián Englert up to Orongo Ceremonial Village via the well-signed Te Ara O Te Ao Trail (about four hours, 7km). Other recommended walks are the climb to Maunga Terevaka from near Ahu Akivi (about three hours) and the walk around Península Poike (one day). For the six- to seven-hour 13km walk between Ahu Tepeu and Anakena beach along the northern coastline, a guide is recommended because the path is not marked.
Cycling
Cycling is a superb way to see the island. Those hoping to loop Easter Island on a bike (by pedaling along the southern coast to Ahu Tongariki, up past Poike to Anakena and back to Hanga Roa along the center road) should be prepared for a 48km journey. While the coastal road is relatively flat, the road through the center of the island includes a few moderate hills. Split the trip camping at Camping Sustentable Ana Tekena by Anakena beach.
Makemake RentabikeCYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8733-5596; Av Atamu Tekena; per day CH$12,000; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)
This venture rents mountain bikes in tip-top condition. A helmet, map and emergency kit are provided, and it’s the only place in town where you don’t have to provide a credit-card guarantee for a bike. Discounts for multiday rentals.
Horseback Riding
Cabalgatas PantuHORSEBACK RIDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0577; www.pikerauri.com; Sector Tahai s/n; half-/full day CH$35,000/75,000; hdaily by reservation)
Offers guided trips that take in some of the sites near Hanga Roa or more remote places, such as Maunga Terevaka, Anakena and the north coast. Beginners are welcome. There’s an extra fee if you pay by credit card.
TTours
oKava Kava ToursCULTURAL
(%cell 9-4066-9236; www.kavakavatours.com; full-day tours per person from US$90)
Run by a young, knowledgeable Rapanui lad who offers private, customized tours as well as highly recommended hiking tours of Poike. Kava Kava’s website is also a handy tool for researching the island.
Haumaka ToursCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0274; cnr Avs Atamu Tekena & Hotu Matua; per day $250 (up to 3 people), per person $75 for larger groups)
Run out of Aloha Nui, these private English-language tours come highly recommended and can be customized to your needs.
Rapa Nui TravelCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0548; www.rapanuitravel.com; Av Tu’u Koihu; h8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-1pm Sat & Sun)
Run by a Rapa Nui–German couple with custom tours and wallet-friendly shared options (half/full day US$30/45) in English, Spanish and German.
Aku Aku TurismoCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0770; www.akuakuturismo.cl; Av Tu’u Koihu s/n; h8:30am-5pm)
A well-established company that employs competent guides.
zFestivals & Events
Easter Island’s premier festival, the Tapati Rapa Nui, lasts about two weeks in the first half of February and is so impressive that it’s almost worth timing your trip around it (contact the tourist office for exact dates). Expect a series of music, dance, cultural and sport contests between two clans that put up two candidates who stand for the title of Queen of the Festival. The most spectacular event is the Haka Pei: on the flanks of the Cerro Pui, a dozen male contestants run downhill on a makeshift sled at speeds that can reach 70km/h.
No less awesome is the Taua Rapa Nui. This triathlon unfolds in the magical setting of the Rano Raraku crater (weather permitting). The first stage consists of paddling across the lake on a reed boat. Then the contestants race around the lake carrying banana bunches on their shoulders. The last leg consists of swimming across the lake using a reed raft as a board. On the last day the parade throughout Hanga Roa is the culmination of the festival, with floats and costumed figures.
4Sleeping
Tipanie MoanaCAMPGROUND, HOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.campingtipaniemoana.cl; off Tu’u Koihu; campsite with/without tent CH$7000/6500, dm CH$14,500, d with/without bathroom CH$35,000/25,000; 
W)
If only all camping grounds in the world could be this clean, with spotless bathrooms, spacious shared kitchens and even racks to dry your clothes. There are also a few dorms and some great-value budget digs. The vibe here is quite lively, and while it’s great for meeting fellow travelers, it may not be ideal for early risers.
Camping MihinoaCAMPGROUND$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1593; www.camping-mihinoa.com; Av Pont s/n; campsites per person with/without tent & gear CH$8000/7000, dm CH$13,000, d CH$25,000-45,000; W)
You have options here: a clutch of well-scrubbed rooms (the dearer ones offer more privacy), several two- to five-bed dorms, some with their own bathroom, or a campsite on a grassy plot (no shade). The ablution block has hot showers. Perks include tent hire, wi-fi, well-equipped communal kitchens and laundry service. Location is ace; you’re just a pebble’s throw from the seashore.
oCabañas ChristopheBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0826; www.cabanaschristophe.com; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; d CH$60,000-90,000, f CH$150,000; W)
The best-value option in Hanga Roa, this charming venue seduces those seeking character and comfort, with four handsomely designed bungalows that blend hardwoods and volcanic stones. They’re spacious, well appointed – think king-size beds, kitchen facilities and a private terrace – and inundated with natural light. It’s at the start of the Orongo trail, about 1.5km from the center. Reserve well in advance.
At the time of research, two additional bungalows were under construction on a new plot 100m away with views of Orongo.
Hare SwissBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-2221; www.hareswiss.com; Sector Tahai; s/d/tr from US$90/130/160; W)
Run by a lovely Rapanui-Swiss couple, this venture is a great option, with three immaculate cottages perched on a slope overlooking the ocean. They come equipped with sparkling bathrooms, king-size beds, tiled floors, kitchen facilities and a terrace with sea views. It’s a bit of a schlep from the town center (you’ll need a bike).
Cabañas Mana Nui InnCABIN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0811; www.mananui.cl; Sector Tahai; s/d/f CH$40,000/60,000/120,000; W)
This well-run venture is great value with eight adjoining rooms in a quiet garden with spectacular views over the ocean. There are also two stand-alone cottages for self-caterers as well as a kitchen for guests’ use.
Cabañas NgahuCABIN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9090-2774; www.ngahu.cl; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; d US$98-190; W)
A great choice where we encountered helpful service, friendly owners and happy guests. It consists of five well-equipped cabins of varying sizes and shapes, most with sea views. The casual atmosphere and prime sunset watching make this the kind of place where you quickly lose track of the days.
Aukara LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0539; www.aukara.cl; Av Pont s/n; s/d CH$45,000/75,000; W)
A good pick, though the ‘Lodge’ bit is a gross misnomer. Where else could you find an establishment with an art gallery featuring various paintings and woodcarvings by Bene Tuki, the proprietor? The rooms themselves are nothing outstanding but spruce enough, and the shady garden is a great place to chill out. It’s easy walking distance from the action.
Bene’s wife, Ana Maria, is also an artist (and children’s book author), speaks excellent English and is very knowledgeable about the history of the island. The couple’s gallery is worth a visit even if you don’t sleep here.
Hostal TojikaGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9215-2167; www.tojika.com; Av Apina s/n; d/tr/q from CH$45,000/55,000/90,000; W)
A decent bet for budgeteers, Hostal Tojika has several rooms that are all different as well as a communal kitchen in a single building overlooking the sea. Some rooms lack privacy but get the job done. No breakfast is served but there’s a small eatery at the entrance of the property.
Aloha NuiGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0274; haumakatours@gmail.com; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; s/d from US$75/125; W)
This agreeable place features six well-organized rooms and a vast, shared living room that opens onto a flowery garden. But the real reason you’re staying here is to discuss Rapa Nui archaeology in flawless English with Josefina Nahoe Mulloy and her husband Ramon, who lead the reputable Haumaka Tours.
Cabañas TokerauBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210 0023; www.cabanastokerau.cl; Sector Tahai; d/f CH$80,000/170,000; W)
A good choice if you’re looking for a relaxed place in a chilled-out setting. It comprises two all-wood bungalows that come equipped with a handy kitchenette and a terrace with (partial) sea views. The larger unit can accommodate six people while the much smaller one is suitable for a couple.
Hostal Petero AtamuGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1823; www.hostalpeteroatamu.com; off Petero Atamu; with/without bathroom s CH$40,000/25,000, d CH$60,000/40,000; W)
Popular with Japanese backpackers, this guesthouse is a simple affair not too far from the town center. Shoestringers will opt for the bare but acceptable rooms with shared bathroom, while wealthier travelers will choose the rooms with a private bathroom and a terrace; rooms 1, 2 and 3 are the best. There’s a TV lounge, kitchen and lovely terrace.
Hostal RaiohaGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0851; off Av Te Pito o Te Henua; d CH$55,000)
Run by a friendly couple, this discreet number is a valid, safe and comfortable option that’s great value for the town’s center. The five rooms are no-frills, but they’re well maintained and open onto a verdant garden. No breakfast or wi-fi; however, there is a communal kitchen on-site, and an internet cafe just up the street.
Inaki UhiGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0231; www.inakiuhi.com; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; s/d/tr US$80/130/170; W)
Can’t speak a single word of Spanish? Here you’ll be glad to be welcomed in flawless English by Alvaro Jr, who spent 15 years in Australia. The 15 smallish rooms occupy two rows of low-slung buildings facing each other. No breakfast, but there are four shared kitchens. It’s right on the main drag, close to everything.
Alvaro Jr has plenty of experience in helping visitors with logistics and trip planning.
Hotel Taura’aHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0463; www.tauraahotel.cl; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; s/d CH$75,000/90,000; W)
The 15 rooms are spotless and flooded with natural light, and they come equipped with back-friendly beds and prim bathrooms. Alas, no sea views. The substantial breakfast is a plus, and Bill, the Aussie owner, is a treasure trove of local information.
Its peerless location, just off the main drag, makes this an excellent base for roaming about town.
VaiannyGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0650; www.residencialvaianny.com; Av Tuki Haka He Vari; s/d CH$35,000/45,000; W)
This aging central guesthouse is an OK choice if you’re counting pennies, with basic but well-scrubbed rooms that are cluttered in a tiny garden area. There’s a kitchen for self-caterers. The prime selling point here is the location, within hollering distance of some of the town’s best bars and restaurants.
oLemu Lodge VaihuTENTED CAMP$$$
(%cell 9-9299-6722; http://lemulodge.com; Sector Caleta Vaihu; d US$250-270) 
S
The clubhouse at this new ‘lodge’ in the remote Caleta Vaihu sector is a stunner with wood-carved columns, stone walls and tree trunks for tables. Comprising six ecofriendly tent-cabins (two of which boast panoramic sea views), this luxe property offers a chance to reconnect with nature without sacrificing any comfort. You’ll need a car as it’s about 20 minutes’ drive from Hanga Roa.
Massage and yoga are possible in an outdoor pavilion, and there’s a pit for campfires under the ink-black Rapa Nui sky.
oPikera UriBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-210-0577; www.rapanuipantu.com; Tahai s/n; d/tr US$208/260; W)
A spiffing location plus decorative touches make this venture one of Hanga Roa’s best retreats. Digs are in cute-as-can-be bungalows perched on a gentle slope overlooking the ocean; the Rito Mata and Uri offer the best sea views. They’re all commodious, luminous and beautifully attired, and open onto a small corral where the owner, Pantu, gathers his horses every morning.
oExplora Rapa NuiBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%in Santiago 2-2395-2800; www.explora.com; 3-night all-inclusive packages from s/d US$2980/4450; 
aW
s) S
Rapa Nui’s most luxurious establishment, this property blends into a forested patch of volcano-singed countryside. Rooms, all overlooking the Pacific and fiery sunsets, are abundant with indigenous materials (local Rauli wood, volcanic stone) that instill a sense of place. Prices include meals, drinks and top-quality excursions.
One proviso: it feels a bit cut off from the rest of the island at 6km east of Hanga Roa.
Mamma NuiTENTED CAMP$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-7395 5796; www.mammanui.cl; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; domes from CH$100,000; as)
Glamping at its finest, Mamma Nui has stilted domes that sleep up to four people and offer unforgettable sea views. There’s also a small pool, and rest areas under the domes with hammocks and chairs in a white-sand pit. Even if you don’t stay here, come to sample the ceviches, pastas and seafood pizzas of the on-site restaurant.
Hotel Hare BoutikBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%32-255-0134; Av Hotu Matua s/n; d US$350; Ws)
A top-drawer hotel, without the stiff upper lips. Digs are in wood and stone bungalows dotted on an alluring property not far from the airport. Rooms are spacious, light-filled and judiciously laid out, with elegant furnishings, solid amenities and a private terrace. It’s quite spread out so you can get a decent dose of privacy, and it features an excellent on-site restaurant.
It’s a bit far from the center, but bikes are available for free.
Hanga Roa Eco Village & SpaLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-3700; www.hangaroa.cl; Av Pont s/n; s/d from US$200/400; aWs) S
This sprawling establishment is one of the best hotels on the island, with an array of creatively designed rooms and suites facing the sea. All units are built of natural materials and their layout is inspired by Orongo Ceremonial Village, with curving lines and shapes. The on-site restaurants serve refined food and the spa is a stunner.
Best of all: it’s ecofriendly with a water- and electricity-saving system.
Cabañas MoreravaBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9499-1898, cell 9-9319-6547; www.morerava.com; Sector Tahai; tr/q/f US$181/187/225; W)
There’s not much in the way of a view here as this establishment is located inland, but there’s nothing to disturb your dreams on this bucolic property. The four cottages are stylishly built with natural materials – it helps that the owners are architects – and can sleep up to six people. It’s on the outskirts of town, but bikes are provided.
AltiplanicoHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-2190; www.altiplanico.cl; Sector Tahai; s/d CH$350,000/390,000; 
iWs)
The best thing about this well-run venture with a boutique feel is its excellent location on a gentle slope in Tahai. Try for bungalows 1, 2, 3, 10, 11 or 17, which have panoramic sea views. The 17 units are all sparkling clean and quirkily decorated, but they’re fairly packed together and we found the rack rates somewhat inflated.
The on-site restaurant is elegant but pricey (pizzas cost US$30).
5Eating
oAriki o Te Pana – Tia BertaCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; mains CH$3000-10,000; h10am-10pm Mon-Sat)
Surrender to some melt-in-your-mouth empanadas prepared mamma-style in this no-frills den.
Hai TongaCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8242-9835; Av Te Pito o Te Henua s/n; mains CH$5500-12,000; hnoon-11pm)
This open-air eatery on the edge of the fútbol (soccer) field has cheery turquoise furniture, a beautiful wood-carved bar and a big flat-screen TV playing surf videos to inspire the young and hip crowd. Come for good-value Chilean sandwiches, fajitas and craft beer on tap.
Moiko Ra’aCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-0149; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; snacks CH$3000-7000; h9am-11pm)
This delectable little cafeteria has a wide variety of cavity-inducing pastries, as well as excellent sandwiches, tarts and empanadas. Be sure to try the unctuous hot chocolate.
Casa EsquinaFAST FOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-0205; Av Te Pito o Te Henua; snacks CH$3000, mains CH$6000-10,000; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun)
A great-value option with a breezy terrace overlooking the church. Choose from empanadas, pizzas, sandwiches, salads and shawarma. Wash it all down with a jumbo-sized jugo natural (fruit juice).
MikaféCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Caleta Hanga Roa s/n; ice cream CH$2000-3500, sandwiches & cakes CH$3500-7000; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat)
Mmm, the helados artesanales (homemade ice creams)! Oh, the damn addictive banana po’e cake! Other treats include panini, sandwiches, muffins and brownies. Also serves full breakfasts (from CH$6000) and real espresso coffees.
Mara PikaCHILEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Apina s/n; mains CH$6000; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
You’ll find no cheaper place for a sit-down meal in Hanga Roa. It’s very much a canteen, but a good one, with friendly service and family-style Chilean cuisine, including rotating daily specials.
oTe Moai SunsetSEAFOOD, CHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-4241-8603; www.facebook.com/temoaisunset; Sector Tahai; mains CH$12,000-16,000; h12:30-11pm Mon-Sat; W)
Make this chic new restaurant your go-to spot in the late afternoon when the moai of Tahai are silhouetted against the setting sun just below your table. Dine alfresco on the hanging wicker chairs or next to one of the 2nd-floor windows for the best views. The chef puts a creative twist on Chilean staples; the ceviche is tangy perfection!
oLa KaletaSEAFOOD, CHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-2244; www.lakaletarestaurant.com; Caleta Hanga Roa; mains CH$9000-16,000; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat)
Santiago’s El Mercurio newspaper crowned La Kaleta the best regional restaurant in Chile in 2016 and the seafront tables have been packed with vacationing Chileans ever since. The menu changes with the season to reflect the freshest ingredients from the sea, but typically includes ceviche, grilled fish and seafood pastas. The wine list is equally memorable.
oHaka HonuCHILEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-2260; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; mains CH$11,000-16,000; h12:30-10:30pm Tue-Sun)
Fish dishes, steaks, homemade pasta, burgers and salads round out the menu at this well-regarded eatery blessed with unsurpassable ocean views. The grilled fish with papaya chutney is particularly flavorsome.
Tataku VaveSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1544; Caleta Hanga Piko s/n; mains CH$12,000-13,500; h11am-10:30pm Mon-Sat)
Tucked behind the Caleta Hanga Piko, Tataku Vave is that easy-to-miss ‘secret spot’ that locals like to recommend, with a delightfully breezy terrace that’s just meters from the seashore. Munch on superb fish dishes while the ocean crashes nearby. Call ahead for free transportation from your hotel.
Au Bout du MondeINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-2060; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; mains CH$11,000-18,000; h12:30-2:30pm & 6-10:30pm, closed Jun & Jul)
Stellar cuisine is the star of this somewhat bland-looking restaurant run by a Belgian woman. Every visitor ought to try the tuna in Tahitian vanilla sauce, the homemade pasta or the organic beef fillet. Leave room for dessert – the Belgian chocolate mousse is divine.
Kuki VaruaSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8192-1940; Av Te Pito o Te Henua s/n; mains CH$10,000-14,000; hnoon-4pm & 6-11pm Wed-Mon)
The Kuki Varua has a great selection of fish delivered daily from the harbor, including tuna and mero (grouper). The upstairs terrace is perfect for enjoying the cool, ocean breezes. Room should be kept for desserts – hmm, the crème brûlée flavored with passion fruit…
Motu Hava KafeSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-9620-1907; Caleta Hanga Roa s/n; empanadas CH$3000, mains CH$9500-15,000; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri)
Blink and you’ll miss the entrance of this simple little den overlooking the Caleta Hanga Roa. It whips up freshly prepared empanadas, ceviches and tuna steaks.
oTe MoanaCHILEAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1578; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; mains CH$10,000-21,000; h12:30-11pm Mon-Sat)
One of the most reliable options in Hanga Roa, this buzzy restaurant boasts a spiffing location, with an atmospheric veranda opening onto the ocean. Te Moana is renowned for its tasty meat and fish dishes. The Polynesian decor is another clincher, with woodcarvings and traditional artifacts adorning the walls.
KanahauSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1923; www.restaurantkanahau.com; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; mains CH$13,000-22,000; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat)
Whether you satisfy yourself with ultrafresh tuna or sample the lomo (beef with a homemade sauce), among a variety of hearty dishes, you’ll be pleased with the careful preparation, attentive service and atmospheric decor. The Varua Ora dance troupe performs here three times weekly.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oPolynesian Coffee & TeaCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/polynesiancoffee; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-3pm Sun)
Detox juices, fruit smoothies, infusion teas and hot (or iced) coffees make this beachy Hawaiian-themed cafe on the main drag a highly recommended morning hangout. Healthy breakfasts (including açaí bowls and yogurt with granola) round out the solid and well-priced menu.
Be sure to check out the attached store with Polynesian clothes and accessories actually made in the region.
Piroto HenuaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-8812-5794; www.facebook.com/pirotohenua; Av Hotu Matua s/n; h8pm-2:30am Mon-Sat)
Sometimes this green-lit dive by the airport is a full-on sports bar with fútbol on the big screen. Other times it’s a live concert venue or a boisterous karaoke bar. Whatever the night may be (check its Facebook page), it’s always a good place to rub shoulders with islanders.
Rapa Rock Resto BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-0411; Av Apina s/n; h10am-2am Wed-Mon)
This open-air waterfront bar blasts rock and pop when live bands aren’t playing on a stage in the sand.
KanahauBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1923; www.restaurantkanahau.com; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; h10am-midnight Mon-Sat)
Kick off the night with a strong pisco sour at this cheerful hangout decked in wood. Serves excellent picoteos (tapas), too.
CarameloCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-0132; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; h10am-9:30pm Mon-Sat)
Part baking goods shop, part actual bakery, Caramelo is your go-to spot for teas, coffees, juices and smoothies in flavors ranging from mango to guava and chirimoya (custard apple). It also features a tantalizing array of pastries and cakes.
3Entertainment
oKari KariTRADITIONAL DANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %cell 9-4280-5388; www.facebook.com/karikari.balletcultural; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; tickets CH$15,000, with dinner CH$40,000; hshow 9pm Tue, Thu & Sat)
This elaborately costumed and talented group performs island legends through song and dance at a venue off the main street. With 15 different programs, you can attend several times and never see the same show. As the oldest group on the island, its academy has trained many dancers you’ll find performing in other shows.
Kari Kari’s gift shop promotes Polynesian designers and sells some of the most authentic clothing and souvenirs in Hanga Roa.
Varua OraTRADITIONAL DANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-1923; www.restaurantkanahau.com; Atamu Tekena s/n; tickets CH$15,000; hshow at 9pm Mon, Wed & Fri)
Nancy Manutomatoma is the island’s first female choreographer and her recommended show at the Kanahau restaurant spans hoko warrior dances, kai kai string games, ancient Polynesian legends and more.
PikanoLIVE MUSIC
(%cell 9-9141-4254; www.facebook.com/pikanorapanui; cover from CH$3000; hhours vary by event)
Pikano is the island’s biggest event space, isolated on the road to Anakena about 3km from the airport. This multifaceted venue is very popular on weekends with an eclectic crowd gulping down glasses of beer while listening to live bands. Later in the night it morphs into a club. Check its Facebook page for the latest events.
Maori TupunaTRADITIONAL DANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %32-255-0556; www.maoritupuna.com; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; tickets CH$15,000; hshow 9pm Mon, Thu & Sat)
Features excellent dance shows with a great band and some modern musical twists. Come at 8:30pm to watch traditional takona body painting.
7Shopping
Mercado ArtesanalARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Avs Tu’u Koihu & Ara Roa Rakei; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat)
Across from the church. This place has a bit of everything, from shell necklaces to floral shirts and the ubiquitous moai replicas.
Feria ArtesanalARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Avs Atamu Tekena & Tu’u Maheke; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat)
Good prices. Look for small stone or carved wooden replicas of moai and fragments of obsidian.
8Information
Banco Santander (Av Policarpo Toro; h8am-1pm Mon-Fri) Currency exchange (until 11am), and has two ATMs that accept Visa and MasterCard. Credit-card holders can also get cash advances at the counter during opening hours (bring your passport).
BancoEstado (Av Tu’u Maheke s/n; h8am-1pm Mon-Fri) Changes US dollars and euros. There are also three 24-hour ATMs.
Farmacia Cruz Verde (Av Atamu Tekena; h8:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, 9:30am-9pm Sun) Large and well-stocked pharmacy.
Hospital Hanga Roa (%32-210-0215; Av Simón Paoa s/n) Recently modernized. Emergency room visits cost a flat CH$25,000 to CH$30,000 plus the cost of any necessary procedures.
Police (%133; Av Simón Paoa s/n)
Post Office (Correos Chile; Av Te Pito o Te Henua s/n; h8:30am-12:30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Puna Vai (Av Hotu Matua; h8:30am-1:30pm & 3-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) This gas station also doubles as a minimarket and exchange office (US dollars and euros only). Much more convenient than the banks (no queues, longer opening hours), plus there’s a great wine selection from the mainland.
8Getting Around
Most car-rental companies also rent bicycles and scooters. Find them on Av Atamu Tekena.
Insular Rent a Car (%32-210-0480; www.rentainsular.cl; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; bicycles/motorbikes/cars from CH$15,000/30,000/50,000; h9am-8pm)
Oceanic Rapa Nui Rent a Car (%32-210-0985; www.rentacaroceanic.com; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; bicycles/motorbikes/cars from CH$8000/30,000/50,000; h9am-8:30pm)
Parque Nacional Rapa Nui
Since 1935, most of Rapa Nui’s land and all of its archaeological sites have been protected as a national park (https://parquenacionalrapanui.cl; adult/child CH$54,000/27,000) that’s filled with caves, ahu (ceremonial platforms), fallen moai (large anthropomorphic statues), village structures and petroglyphs. You’re allowed one visit to Orongo and one visit to Rano Raraku, though other sites can be visited multiple times, if desired.
8Information
Tickets for Parque Nacional Rapa Nui can be bought on arrival at the airport – look for the small booth. The price has risen considerably in recent years, though the additional money has gone to good use with new compost toilets near many archaeological sites and forthcoming disabled access at key attractions. The current fee for adults is CH$54,000, while children pay CH$27,000. Tickets are valid for 10 days as of the first day of entrance. It’s also possible to buy tickets at the headquarters of Ma’u Henua (%32-210-0827; https://parquenacionalrapanui.cl; Sector Mataveri; tickets adult/child CH$54,000/27,000; h8:30am-4pm) or at the small ticket office on Av Atamu Tekena in Hanga Roa. Note that tickets are not sold anywhere else on the island.
8Getting There & Away
To visit the archaeological sites from Hanga Roa you’ll need a car, a motorbike or (for the physically fit) a bicycle. Alternatively, you can sign up for a guided tour or catch the hop-on-hop-off bus Ara Moai (%cell 9-9715-5811; www.maururutravel.com; Av Pont s/n; CH$15,000; hdaily Nov-Feb, 10-person minimum rest of year).
Northern Circuit
1Sights
Ahu AkiviARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Unusual for its inland location, Ahu Akivi, the first scientific restoration on the island (in 1960), sports seven restored moai. They are the only ones that face toward the sea, but, like all moai, they overlook the site of a village, traces of which can still be seen. The site has proved to have astronomical significance: at the equinoxes, the seven statues look directly at the setting sun.
Maunga TerevakaMOUNTAIN
Maunga Terevaka is the island’s highest point (507m) and the youngest of its three volcanoes. This barren hill is only accessible on foot or on horseback and is definitely worth the effort as it offers sensational panoramic views.
Ana Te PahuCAVE
Off the dirt road to Akivi, Ana Te Pahu comprises former cave dwellings with an overgrown garden of sweet potatoes, taro and bananas. The caves here are lava tubes, created when rock solidified around a flowing stream of molten lava.
Ahu TepeuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
This large ahu has several fallen moai and a village site with foundations of hare paenga (elliptical houses) and the walls of several round houses, consisting of loosely piled stones.
Ana KakengaCAVE
(Dos Ventanas)
About 2km north of Tahai is Ana Kakenga. This site comprises two caves opening onto the ocean (bring a torch).
Southwest Circuit
1Sights & Activities
oOrongo Ceremonial VillageAREA
(h9:30am-5:30pm)
Nearly covered in a bog of floating totora reeds, the crater lake of Rano Kau resembles a giant witch’s cauldron and is a wild greenhouse of endemic biodiversity. Perched 300m above, on the edge of the crater wall on one side and abutting a vertical drop plunging down to the cobalt-blue ocean on the other side, Orongo Ceremonial Village boasts one of the South Pacific’s most dramatic landscapes. It overlooks several small motu (offshore islands), including Motu Nui, Motu Iti and Motu Kao Kao.
Built into the side of the slope, the houses have walls of horizontally overlapping stone slabs, with an earth-covered arched roof of similar materials, making them appear partly subterranean. Orongo was the focus of an islandwide ‘birdman cult’ linked to the god Makemake in the 18th and 19th centuries. Birdman petroglyphs are visible on a cluster of boulders between the cliff top and the edge of the crater.
Orongo is either a steepish climb or a short scenic drive 4km from the center of town.
Ana Kai TangataCAVE
This vast cave carved into black cliffs sports beautiful rock paintings with birdman motifs. However, when we passed through it was closed due to falling rocks.
In the next cove over to the north you’ll find a natural swimming pool; strong waves often make it too dangerous to use.
Puna PauARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
The volcanic Puna Pau quarry was used to make the reddish, cylindrical pukao (topknots) that were placed on many moai. Some 60 of these were transported to sites around the island, and another 25 remain in or near the quarry.
Ahu VinapuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Beyond the eastern end of the airport runway, a road heads south past some large oil tanks to this ceremonial platform, with two major ahu. One of them features neatly hewn, mortarless blocks akin to those found in Inca ruins. Both once supported moai that are now broken and lying facedown.
Motu Kao KaoDIVING
Motu Kao Kao looks like a giant moai rising from the seabed at 55m. The typical dive plan consists of swimming around the structure, starting at about 25m. Shoals of sea chubs are common.
Northeast Circuit
1Sights
oAnakenaBEACH
Beach bums in search of a place to wallow will love this postcard-perfect, white-sand beach. It also forms a lovely backdrop for Ahu Nau Nau, which comprises seven moai, some with topknots. On a rise south of the beach stands Ahu Ature Huki and its lone moai, which was re-erected by Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl with the help of a dozen islanders in 1956.
Facilities include public toilets as well as food and souvenir stalls.
oRano RarakuARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
(h9:30am-5pm)
Known as ‘the nursery,’ the volcano of Rano Raraku, about 18km from Hanga Roa, is the quarry for the hard tuff from which the moai were cut. You’ll feel as though you’re stepping back into early Polynesian times, wandering among dozens of moai in all stages of progress studded on the southern slopes of the volcano. At the top, the 360-degree view is truly awesome. Within the crater are a small, glistening lake and about 20 standing moai.
On the southeastern slope of the mountain, look for the unique, kneeling Moai Tukuturi; it has a full body squatting on its heels, with its forearms and hands resting on its thighs.
oAhu TongarikiARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
The monumental Ahu Tongariki has plenty to set your camera’s flash popping. With 15 imposing statues, it is the largest ahu ever built. The statues gaze over a large, level village site, with ruined remnants scattered about and some petroglyphs nearby; some figures include a turtle with a human face, a tuna fish and a birdman motif.
The site was restored by a Japanese team between 1992 and 1996. A 1960 tsunami had flattened the statues and scattered several topknots far inland. Only one topknot has been returned to its place atop a moai.
Península PoikePENINSULA
At the eastern end of the island, this high plateau is crowned by the extinct volcano Maunga Pu A Katiki (400m) and bound in by steep cliffs. There are also three small volcanic domes, one of which sports a huge mask carved into the rock that looks like a giant gargoyle. Also worth looking for is a series of small moai that lie facedown, hidden amid the grass, as well as the Grotto of the Virgins (Ana O Keke).
Legend has it that this cave was used to confine virgins so that their skin would remain as pale as possible. It’s worth crawling inside if you don’t feel dizzy (there’s a little path that leads to it, on a ledge, with the unbroken sweep of the Pacific below) to admire a series of petroglyphs.
The best way to soak up the primordial rawness of Península Poike is to take a day hike with a guide because the sights are hard to find.
Ahu Te Pito KuraARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Beside Bahía La Pérouse, a nearly 10m-long moai lies facedown with its neck broken; it’s the largest moai moved from Rano Raraku and erected on an ahu. A topknot – oval rather than round as at Vinapu – lies nearby.
OvaheBEACH
Near Anakena, this beach offers seclusion for wannabe Robinson Crusoes but is considered dangerous because of falling rocks.
Papa Vaka PetroglyphsARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
About 100m off the coastal road (look for the sign), you’ll find a couple of massive basaltic slabs decorated with carvings featuring a tuna, a shark, an octopus and a large canoe.
4Sleeping
Camping Sustentable Ana TekenaCAMPGROUND$
(%cell 9-9690-6941; www.facebook.com/campingsustentable.anatekena; Playa Anakena; campsite with/without tent & gear CH$16,000/12,000) S
It may be the priciest camping ground on this pricey island, but you can’t beat the location right above Anakena Beach. This off-the-grid spot boasts solar-powered hot showers and a wood-fired stove. There’s also a hammock big enough to fit an entire fútbol team! One warning: it can get a bit buggy here at night.
Transportation to and from the airport costs CH$7000. The owners also run snorkeling, fishing and horseback tours of the area (in Spanish only).
Understand Easter Island
Easter Island Today
In 2007 Easter Island was granted a special status. It is now a territoria especial (special territory) within Chile, which means greater autonomy for the islanders. But independence is not the order of the day – ongoing economic reliance on mainland Chile renders this option unlikely in the foreseeable future.
The Rapa Nui are also concerned about the development and control of the tourism industry. Mass tourism it ain’t, but the rising number of visitors – from about 50,000 10 years ago to approximately 100,000 tourists in 2016 – has had an impact on the environment. The recent influx of mainland Chileans (mostly made up of tourism workers) has fostered tensions with some locals, who see them as ‘troublemakers.’ There are plans to establish tighter immigration controls for the island, similar to those in place in Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands.
In October 2015, the Chilean government unveiled an ambitious environmental plan for Easter Island, namely the creation of a vast marine park to protect the island’s fish stocks, which are under threat from illegal fishing by industrial vessels. This 720,000-sq-km marine sanctuary became one of the world’s largest when local residents gave their seal of approval in September 2017.
Since 2010 a land dispute has opposed one Rapa Nui clan to the owners of the Hanga Roa hotel. Indeed, the return of native lands has been a long-running point of contention for indigenous Rapa Nui, who control almost no land outside Hanga Roa. After years of asking for more autonomy they finally got their wish in November 2017 when President Michelle Bachelet officially gave control of the island’s archaeological sites back to a local entity called Ma’u Henua.
History
The first islanders arrived either from the Marquesas, the Mangarevas, the Cooks or Pitcairn Island between the 8th and 13th centuries.
The Rapa Nui developed a unique civilization, characterized by the construction of the ceremonial stone platforms called ahu and the famous Easter Island statues called moai. The population probably peaked at around 15,000 in the 17th century. Conflict over land and resources erupted in intertribal warfare by the late 17th century, only shortly before the arrival of Europeans, and the population started to decline. More recent dissension between different clans led to bloody wars and cannibalism, and many moai were toppled from their ahu. Natural disasters, such as earthquakes and tsunamis, may have also contributed to the destruction. The only moai that are left standing today were restored during the last century.
Contact with outsiders nearly annihilated the Rapa Nui people. A raid by Peruvian blackbirders (slavers) in 1862 took nearly 1500 islanders away to work the guano (manure) deposits of Peru’s Chincha islands. After intense pressure from the Catholic Church, some survivors were returned to Easter Island, but disease and hard labor had already killed about 90% of them. A brief period of French-led missionary activity saw most of the surviving islanders converted to Catholicism in the 1860s.
Chile officially annexed the island in 1888 during a period of expansion that included the acquisition of territory from Peru and Bolivia after the War of the Pacific (1879–84).
By 1897 Rapa Nui had fallen under the control of a single wool company, which became the island’s de facto government, continuing the wool trade until the middle of the 20th century.
In 1953 the Chilean government took charge of the island, continuing the imperial rule to which islanders had been subject for nearly a century. With restricted rights, including travel restrictions and ineligibility to vote, the islanders felt they were treated like second-class citizens. In 1967 the establishment of a regular commercial air link between Santiago and Tahiti, with Rapa Nui as a refuelling stop, opened up the island to the world and brought many benefits to Rapa Nui people.
HOW TO TELL YOUR AHU FROM YOUR MOAI
Ahu
Ahu were village burial sites and ceremonial centres and are thought to derive from altars in French Polynesia. Some 350 of these stone platforms are dotted around the coast. Ahu are paved on the upper surface with more or less flat stones, and they have a vertical wall on the seaward side and at each end.
Of several varieties of ahu, built at different times for different reasons, the most impressive are the ahu moai that support the massive statues.
Moai
Easter Island’s most pervasive image, the enigmatic moai are massive carved figures that probably represent clan ancestors. From 1m to 10m tall, these stony-faced statues stood with their backs to the Pacific Ocean. Some moai have been completely restored, while others have been re-erected but are eroded. Many more lie on the ground, toppled over. Of the 887 known maoi, just 288 made it to their ahu, while 92 got derailed in transit.
For several centuries, controversy has raged over the techniques employed to move and raise the moai, which weigh an average of 12.5 tonnes. For many decades most experts believed they were dragged on a kind of wooden sledge, or pushed on top of rollers, but in the early 2000s archaeologists came to the conclusion that the moai were not dragged horizontally but moved in a vertical position using ropes. This theory would tally with oral history, which says that the moai ‘walked’ to their ahu. As you’ll soon realize, it’s a never-ending debate, which adds to the sense of mystery and makes this island so fascinating.
Topknots
Archaeologists believe that the reddish cylindrical pukao (topknots) that crown many moai reflect a male hairstyle once common on Rapa Nui.
Quarried from the small crater at Puna Pau, the volcanic scoria from which the topknots are made is relatively soft and easily worked. Carved like the moai, the topknots may have been simple embellishments, which were rolled to their final destination and then, despite weighing about as much as two elephants, somehow placed on top of the moai.
Culture
Rapa Nui is a fairly conservative society, and family life, marriage and children still play a central role in everyday life, as does religion.
More than a third of the population is from mainland Chile or Europe. The most striking feature is the intriguing blend of Polynesian and Chilean customs. Although they will never admit it overtly, the people of Rapa Nui have one foot in South America and one foot in Polynesia.
Despite its unique language and history, contemporary Rapa Nui does not appear to be a ‘traditional’ society – its continuity was shattered by the near extinction of the population in the last century. However, although they have largely adapted to a Westernized lifestyle, Rapa Nui people are fiercely proud of their history and culture, and they strive to keep their traditions alive.
Arts
As in Tahiti, traditional dancing is not a mere tourist attraction but one of the most vibrant forms of expression of traditional Polynesian culture. A couple of talented dance groups perform regularly at various hotels and restaurants. Tattooing is another aspect of Polynesian culture, and it has enjoyed a revival among the young generation since the late 1980s. There are also strong carving traditions on Easter Island.
Environment
Easter Island is roughly triangular in shape, with an extinct volcanic cone in each corner – Maunga (Mt) Terevaka, in the northwest corner, is the highest point at 507m. The island’s maximum length is just 24km, and it is only 12km across at its widest point. Much of the interior of Easter Island is grassland, with cultivable soil interspersed with rugged lava fields. Wave erosion has created steep cliffs around much of the coast, and Anakena, on the north shore, is the only broad sandy beach.
Although some coral occurs in shallow waters, Rapa Nui does not have coral reefs. In the absence of reefs, the ocean has battered the huge cliffs, some of which rise to 300m.
Erosion, exacerbated by overgrazing and deforestation, is the island’s most serious problem. In the most dramatic cases, the ground has slumped, leaving eroded landslides of brownish soil (it’s particularly striking on Península Poike). To counteract the effects of erosion, a small-scale replanting program is under way on Península Poike.
Survival Guide
8Directory A–Z
ACCOMMODATIONS
If you come here from mainland Chile, be prepared for a shock. Despite a high number of establishments – about 160 when we visited – accommodations on Easter Island are pricey for what you get.
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom and breakfast.
$ less than CH$40,000
$$ CH$40,000–CH$80,000
$$$ more than CH$80,000
PRACTICALITIES
88.9 Radio Manukena Music, island news and more can be found on this beloved radio station.
Canal 13 Local TV news.
Electricity Supplied at 240V, 50Hz AC.
Weights & Measures The metric system is used.
FOOD
The following price ranges refer to a standard main course.
$ less than CH$8000
$$ CH$8000–CH$15,000
$$$ more than CH$15,000
INTERNET ACCESS
Hanga Roa has two remaining internet cafes, the most popular of which is Omotohi Cybercafé (Av Te Pito o Te Henua s/n; per hr CH$1000-1500; h8:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-10pm Sat & Sun; W). There are also four public wi-fi zones. Wi-fi is similarly available at most hotels and guesthouses, but connections can be extremely slow at times (or nonexistent after storms) even in the most luxurious of lodgings.
MONEY
Hanga Roa has five ATMs dispensing the local currency, the Chilean peso (CH$). Some businesses also accept US dollars or euros.
Many residenciales (budget accommodations), hotels, restaurants and tour agencies accept credit cards.
There are two banks and an exchange office in Hanga Roa. US dollars are the best foreign currency to carry, followed by euros. Note that exchange rates on Easter Island are higher than those offered in mainland Chile.
Tipping is not traditionally part of Polynesian culture.
TELEPHONE
Easter Island’s international telephone code is the same as Chile’s (56), and the area code (32) covers the whole island. You’ll find a few private call centers in town. Entel is the only company that offers 4G cell-phone service, and prepaid SIM cards are available for purchase at its office in front of BancoEstado. Ask your service provider about international roaming agreements and the charges involved.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Sernatur (%32-210-0255; www.chile.travel/en; Av Policarpo Toro s/n; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has various brochures, maps and lists of accommodations. Some staff speak good English.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
The only airline serving Easter Island is LATAM (%600-526-2000; www.latam.com; Av Atamu Tekena s/n; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, to 12:30pm Sat). It has daily flights to/from Santiago and one weekly flight to/from Pape’ete (Tahiti). A standard economy round-trip fare from Santiago can cost US$450 to US$900.
SEA
Around five or six cruise ships pass by each year, mostly in the summer months. A few yachts also stop here, typically in January, February and March. Anchorages are not well sheltered.
8Getting Around
Outside Hanga Roa, the entire east coast road and the road to Anakena are paved.
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Aeropuerto Mataveri (Hanga Roa) The airport is just on the outskirts of Hanga Roa. Accommodations proprietors wait at the airport and will shuttle you for free to your hotel or residencial.
BICYCLE
Mountain bikes can be rented in Hanga Roa for about CH$8000 to CH$12,000 per day.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Some hotels and agencies rent 4WDs for CH$50,000 to CH$70,000 for 24 hours, depending on the vehicle. A word of warning: insurance is not available, so you’re not covered should the vehicle receive any damage. Don’t leave valuables in your car.
Scooters and motorcycles are rented for about CH$30,000 to CH$35,000 a day.
TAXI
Taxis cost a flat CH$2000 for most trips around town and CH$3000 to the airport.