Over the years I have found vintage stuff everywhere. I’ve made some mistakes (which I’ve always learned from) and I’ve also bought some absolute bargains, so here are a few tips for buying vintage or vintage-style.
The most important thing about buying vintage is to do your research before you buy anything big or expensive, but also to keep a lookout everywhere you go – whether it’s on a shopping trip, a day out or even on holiday.
Genuine vintage goods are, by their nature, often unique and so you will find that sometimes you see something and you have to buy it there and then or lose it for ever. That’s fine, as long as you accept that you might find yourself overpaying if you aren’t savvy. The joy of modern technology is that often you can google something to check a price before you commit to buying, but if it’s something cheap and cheerful, you may be happy to bypass that.
However, if you are looking to buy something more expensive, something that is perhaps more of a statement piece, it pays to do your research first. Take a look around to see what sort of prices are being paid for similar pieces before you agree a price with a seller. The internet is a wonderful tool for this, and in particular eBay, which allows you to get a good overview of what people are charging and for what condition.
There are loads of different places to buy from – ranging from the smart (and thus sometimes pricey) to the cheap and cheerful.
At the top end of the scale are antique dealers. If you are going for antiques from a smart shop, be aware that some outlets will charge a premium if they are in expensive areas, such as central London, so you won’t necessarily be getting a bargain. That said, you may find something unique, which makes it worth the overspend, and you might also be able to strike a deal – it’s always worth asking the dealer what is their best price, and they may even be open to negotiation (for tips on haggling!).
Antique auction houses and local antique dealers often are cheaper than those in cities, but be warned that this isn’t always the case and you can find prices get hiked up if there is a bidding war for something. They are worth a look, though, even if it is only to get an idea of what sort of prices pieces are going for. When you buy from any shop or auction house, always get a receipt for your goods, ensuring that it lists the age of the piece you are buying, the price you paid, and any damage you can see on it that might affect its value.
Antique shops often stock the crème de la crème of vintage gear, but I’ve found a lot of other sources for my original pieces over the years, which are a lot cheaper, and often the quality is just as good.
My favourite places to buy are at flea markets and vintage fairs. I can spend hours wandering round stalls and picking my way through all their lovely treasures. There are always lots of these sales going on regularly throughout the year, and your best bet is to google your local area to find out when the next one is on that is nearest to you. Have a really good rummage around at these events and you might find some hidden gems. As well as lots of wonderful vintage goodies, sellers also often have baskets of offcuts of lace or other textiles, doorknobs and sometimes damaged or mismatched china. Don’t ignore these – this is where the bargains are to be had, and if they aren’t quite perfect or don’t quite go with each other, don’t discard them; just think imaginatively about how you could use them. For example, it’s quite hard to find vintage tiles with the same pattern in sufficient quantities to cover a specific area, but you can mix and match them or space them out between plain-coloured tiles. If you are artistic, or the pattern is quite simple, you might even be able to copy it on a few tiles to complete the effect.
Charity shops and car boot sales can also be little treasure troves, and here you really do have the opportunity to get a great deal, because many sellers may just see the stuff they are selling as junk, and they may not know the real value of what they are selling. If you’re looking for pretty china, this is where you can fill your crockery cupboard inexpensively. Go armed with cash and get ready to haggle!
In recent years I’ve probably had most success on eBay, but there are many other online places you can buy from. You do run the risk here of receiving something that isn’t what you were expecting, so if you do have the opportunity to look at something before you part with your cash, then do so. It can be very expensive to return something once it has been delivered, or to have to get rid of it if it really isn’t what you want. If you can’t see it before you buy, make sure there is a returns policy in place that won’t cost you a fortune. If you buy something from abroad, remember to allow for any shipping and duty or tax costs that might be added by the seller or by UK customs, as this can significantly increase the cost of the item.
If you’re looking for garden ware or bathroom furniture and accessories, salvage yards can be a great resource. They are also brilliant for old bits of wood, tiles, doors, fireplaces, chairs and sometimes tables. Again, it’s a bit of luck as to what is there on the day, but if you are looking for something specific, it’s worth striking up a relationship with the owner and seeing if they can give you a call when the things you want come in.
If you know there is building work going on in your local area, keep an eye out for what goes into the skip. Many builders will be delighted to see bulky objects disappearing out of the skip and sparing them the disposal costs, but always ask first to make sure they aren’t intending to sell it themselves or use it elsewhere. Private homes being modernised can be great sources of period pieces, such as fireplaces and tiles, but keep an eye out too for any demolition or refitting of old churches and schools, which can yield wonderful old stones, chairs, pews and bits of wood and flooring.
Be brave – if you don’t ask you don’t get, so don’t feel embarrassed; the worst they can say is no. Recently we were having lunch at Babington House in Somerset and noticed they were removing the old decking boards from around the swimming pool. A few words were exchanged and now those boards have been spliced and hammered into our new steps from the kitchen into the garden!
Before you buy anything, always ask the seller if it needs any work doing to it – beyond any obvious damage you can see. If you are buying a piece that needs work, think about how much must be done before you buy. Ideally, you should get a quote for the work from a specialist (if it’s something you can’t do yourself) before you agree a price. You can find that you buy something inexpensively but then pay more than it cost just to get it how you want it. That’s OK if it is still under the market value, but it’s annoying if costs then spiral.
If you are buying anything electric, like lights, do make sure that they work with modern systems. There’s nothing worse than getting home with a gorgeous lamp or chandelier, only for an electrician to shake his head and tell you it won’t work. Be cautious, too, about taps and other fixtures and fittings – make sure they will work with the sink or bath you have in mind. Plumbing and electrical work can come up as some of the most expensive labour costs.
Know your stuff before you open the negotiations. Be confident that you know what you are buying, what it is worth and how much you are willing to pay for it.
Really study a piece before you buy it to make sure it is exactly as you would expect it to be. If you don’t mind a bit of damage, that’s fine, but if you do like things to look in good shape, inspect it carefully so you don’t find any flaws later. Pick it up, handle it and look it over. If there is any damage, you can use this to negotiate a lower price.
Begin by asking the seller for their best price on the item.
Try to cultivate a poker face! If you’ve fallen in love with something, don’t let it show. Try to look uncommitted and you will find the seller will be more inclined to lower the price. If they sense how much you want it, they will know you will go higher on the price than you’re letting on. Hesitating and looking unconvinced are your best weapons.
Don’t start with your best price. Start lower, at about half your maximum, as this gives you more room for negotiation.
Give as little as possible, but know when you are about to reach deadlock. If you can see the seller is not shifting any more and is starting to get irritated by the negotiations, it’s probably time to do the deal. Don’t be greedy unless you really don’t mind whether you get the piece or not. If you really think the final offer is too high, see if you can get the seller to throw something else into the deal.
In all negotiations, be polite – you might want to buy from the seller again and so it’s better to create a good relationship with them, which may lead to better deals later, than to push the dealer for a deal now and be blackballed by them.
Ultimately, the key thing to remember when buying vintage is to buy it because you love it, not because it is fashionable or might make you some money one day. If something makes you smile when you see it, it won’t disappoint you if you try to sell it and don’t make a profit. Personally, I don’t like having things in my house that I don’t really like – they just take up space where I could put something else that I really want.