weeknight dinners

Serves 4 to 6;Total Time 45 minutes

why this recipe works

Time was, if you didn’t smother your pasta with tomato sauce, it likely received a rich coating of butter, maybe cream. Even the classic pasta primavera, or “springtime pasta,” amounted to pasta with vegetables in a cream sauce. Nowadays we prefer a pasta primavera that actually highlights the vegetables rather than weighs them down. When properly cooked, some vegetables soften until they turn creamy, providing a lighter base for a pasta sauce. Here, we technically overcooked zucchini, a fairly watery vegetable, until it broke down, developing a silky texture that coated the asparagus, peas, and pasta, tying the dish together. (Don’t be alarmed when the zucchini slices turn soft and creamy and lose their shape.) Some olive oil and grated Pecorino brought just enough richness, while lemon juice and fresh mint amplified the vibrancy of this springtime dish. Finally, cherry tomatoes, briefly marinated in garlic and oil, made a bright, juicy topping.

6 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1 small garlic clove, minced, plus 4 cloves, sliced thin

Salt and pepper

1 pound spaghetti

1 zucchini, halved lengthwise and sliced ¼ inch thick

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound asparagus, trimmed and cut on bias into 1-inch lengths

1 cup frozen peas, thawed

¼ cup minced fresh chives

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for serving

2 tablespoons torn fresh mint leaves

1. Toss tomatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, minced garlic, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in bowl; set aside.

2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Drain pasta and return it to pot.

3. Meanwhile, heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add zucchini, pepper flakes, sliced garlic, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, covered, until zucchini softens and breaks down, 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add asparagus, peas, and ¾ cup water and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Cover and cook until asparagus is crisp-tender, about 2 minutes.

4. Add vegetable mixture, chives, lemon juice, and remaining 2 tablespoons oil to pasta and toss to combine. Transfer to serving bowl, sprinkle with Pecorino, and drizzle with extra oil. Spoon tomatoes and their juices over top and sprinkle with mint. Serve, passing extra Pecorino separately.

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MEASURING PASTA

Many of the pasta recipes in this book (including the one here) call for a full pound of pasta. That’s easy enough to measure out, as most packages are sold in this quantity. However, for some recipes you will need less than a pound, and measuring that can be tricky. Obviously, you can weigh out partial amounts of pasta using a scale, or you can judge by how full the box is, but we think it’s easiest to measure shaped pasta using a dry measuring cup, and strand pasta by determining the diameter.

Measuring Short Pasta

PASTA TYPE*	8 OUNCES	12 OUNCES
Elbow Macaroni and Small Shells	2 cups	3 cups
Orecchiette	2¼ cups	3⅓ cups
Penne, Ziti, and Campanelle	2½ cups	3¾ cups
Rigatoni, Fusilli, Medium Shells, and Wide Egg Noodles	3 cups	4½ cups
Farfalle	3¼ cups	4¾ cups

* These amounts do not apply to whole-wheat pasta.

Measuring Long Pasta

When 8 ounces of uncooked strand pasta are bunched together into a tight circle, the diameter measures about 1¼ inches. When 12 ounces of uncooked strand pasta are bunched together, the diameter measures about 1¾ inches.

8 ounces

12 ounces

Bucatini with Peas, Kale, and Pancetta

Serves 4 to 6; Total Time: 45 minutes

why this recipe works

In a typical pasta-and-sauce dish, you cook the pasta in one pot, the sauce in another, and may even use a third for vegetables or meat. That’s a lot of pots for a “simple” dinner. This method streamlines the process by cooking the pasta directly in the sauce. By starting with just the right amount of liquid (a flavorful mix of white wine, chicken broth, and water), we ensured the pasta cooked through just as the liquid had reduced to a sauce, which we thickened with grated Parmesan. To bolster the sauce’s flavor, we first crisped chopped pancetta, then used the rendered fat to bloom lemon zest and garlic. Sweet peas and baby kale complemented the meaty pancetta and hollow-stranded bucatini pasta absorbed plenty of sauce. For crunchy contrast, we topped off each serving with the crisped pancetta, along with a mixture of panko, Parmesan, and lemon zest.

½ cup panko bread crumbs

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1½ ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (¾ cup)

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

2 ounces pancetta, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup dry white wine

2½ cups water

2 cups chicken broth

1 pound bucatini or spaghetti

5 ounces (5 cups) baby kale

1 cup frozen peas

1. Combine panko with oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl and microwave, stirring often, until crumbs are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup Parmesan and 1 teaspoon lemon zest.

2. Cook pancetta in Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes; using slotted spoon, transfer to paper towel–lined plate.

3. Add garlic and remaining 2 teaspoons zest to fat left in pot and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 3 minutes. Stir in water and broth, scraping up any browned bits.

4. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Stir in pasta, reduce heat to medium, and simmer vigorously, stirring often, until pasta is nearly tender, 8 to 10 minutes.

5. Stir in kale and peas and continue to simmer until pasta and kale are tender, about 4 minutes. Add remaining ½ cup Parmesan and stir vigorously until pasta is creamy and well coated, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, sprinkling individual portions with crisp pancetta and panko mixture.

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FOR A SAVORY BOOST, ADD PANCETTA

Cooks love to talk about how bacon makes nearly any dish taste better. But you know what? It also makes the dish taste smokier. And while smokiness is often welcome, it can quickly steal the show and overpower or compete with other flavors. Fortunately, there’s pancetta, an ingredient that has all of bacon’s rich, meaty savor without the smoke. Pancetta, an Italian pork product made from the belly of the pig, is used to add flavor and meaty depth to many Italian pasta sauces, stews, and braises. Sometimes called Italian bacon, the fatty, succulent cut is also used to make American bacon. However, while American bacon is salted, (usually) sugared, and smoked, pancetta is treated with salt, black pepper, and spices and rolled into a cylinder. It is never smoked. This gives a less obtrusive element of meatiness that’s wonderful in everything from tomato sauce to lentil soup.

Pancetta is typically chopped and sautéed to crisp it and render the fat. You the remove the meat (to add back later) and add vegetables or other ingredients to cook in the savory fat. Try that before simmering your next tomato sauce or simply cooking a vegetable such as broccoli or spinach. You may decide you want to keep a chunk of pancetta in the fridge all the time.

Conversely, if you have bacon and the recipe calls for pancetta, you can blanch it to remove some (not all) of its smoky flavor: Put the bacon in boiling water for 2 minutes, then use as you would pancetta. Because blanched bacon has lost some of its fat, you may need to add extra oil to the recipe.

Skillet Lasagna

Serves 4 to 6; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Lasagna is not usually the friendliest dish to tackle on a weeknight. To get our lasagna fix without spending hours making each component and painstakingly arranging them for picture-perfect layers, we made the entire dish in a 12-inch skillet. We added broken-up lasagna noodles and sauce right to the pan of browned meat and aromatics (broken noodles are easier to fit into the skillet). Simmering the noodles in the sauce infused the whole dish with flavor. Meatloaf mix (a blend of ground beef, pork, and veal) contributed deep, complex meatiness. Dollops of ricotta made for a simple but rich and creamy topping. The result was less tightly constructed than traditional lasagna, but no less tasty. A 12-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid works best for this recipe. Part-skim ricotta cheese can be substituted if desired. Do not use no-boil lasagna noodles. If meatloaf mix is unavailable, use ground beef—or make the sausage variation.

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes

Water

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 onion, chopped fine

Salt and pepper

3 garlic cloves, minced

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 pound meatloaf mix

10 curly-edged lasagna noodles, broken into 2-inch lengths

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup), plus 2 tablespoons grated

8 ounces (1 cup) whole-milk ricotta cheese

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. Place tomatoes and their juice in 4-cup liquid measuring cup. Add water until mixture measures 4 cups.

2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until onion begins to brown, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add meat and cook, breaking it up into small pieces with wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 4 minutes.

3. Scatter noodles over meat but do not stir. Pour tomato mixture and tomato sauce over noodles, cover, and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until noodles are tender, about 20 minutes.

4. Off heat, stir in ½ cup Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Dollop heaping tablespoons of ricotta over top, cover, and let sit for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with basil and remaining 2 tablespoons Parmesan. Serve.

variation

Skillet Lasagna with Italian Sausage and Bell Pepper

Substitute 1 pound Italian sausage, casings removed, for meatloaf mix. Add 1 chopped red bell pepper to skillet with onion.

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MAGICAL MEATLOAF MIX

Meatloaf mix is a mixture of ground beef, pork, and veal. The combination of meats makes for a flavorful dish, but there’s more to meatloaf mix than just the taste. The beef contributes assertive beefiness, while pork adds dimension with its sweet flavor and fattiness. The veal adds delicacy but also offers up its gelatin, which helps to absorb excess moisture and gives additional body and viscosity when simmered in a sauce, as it is here. Gelatin is formed when collagen, a protein present in connective tissues, breaks down during cooking. The collagen in calves (the source of veal) is more loosely structured and therefore converts more easily and quickly than collagen in adult cows. (This is also why veal stock is used as the base for demiglace, a concentrated liquid that gives body to sauces in classic French cooking.) Many Italian recipes featuring ground meat call for the beef-pork-veal trio (see our Pasta with Classic Bolognese, for another example), which makes meatloaf mix quite handy.

Pasta alla Norma

Serves 4 to 6; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Pasta alla Norma is a Sicilian classic built on meaty eggplant and a robust tomato sauce. To ensure tender but not watery or greasy eggplant, we salted and microwaved eggplant pieces on a bed of coffee filters (which are safer in the microwave than paper towels), drawing out their moisture much faster than standard salting would. Microwaving also caused the eggplant to collapse, meaning it would soak up less oil during sautéing. A secret ingredient, anchovies, gave our tomato sauce a deep savoriness without any fishiness. Finally, shards of ricotta salata, a slightly aged ricotta, added a salty tang. To prevent the eggplant from breaking into small pieces, do not stir it frequently while sautéing. French feta, Pecorino Romano, or Cotija (a firm, crumbly Mexican cheese) can be substituted for the ricotta salata. We prefer kosher salt because it clings best to the eggplant. If using table salt, reduce all salt amounts by half. To give this dish a little extra kick, add extra red pepper flakes.

1½ pounds eggplant, cut into ½-inch pieces

Kosher salt and pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced

¼–½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

6 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1 pound ziti, rigatoni, or penne

3 ounces ricotta salata, shredded (1 cup)

1. Line large plate with double layer of coffee filters and lightly spray with vegetable oil spray. Toss eggplant with 1 teaspoon salt in bowl, then spread evenly over prepared plate. Microwave eggplant, uncovered, until dry to touch and slightly shriveled, about 10 minutes, tossing halfway through cooking. Let eggplant cool slightly, then return to bowl and toss gently with 1 tablespoon oil.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add eggplant and cook, stirring only every 1½ to 2 minutes, until well browned and fully tender, about 10 minutes; transfer to clean plate. Let skillet cool slightly, about 3 minutes.

3. Heat 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, anchovies, and pepper flakes in now-empty skillet over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until garlic turns golden but not brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, increase heat to medium-high, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce has thickened slightly, 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Stir in eggplant and cook until eggplant is heated through and flavors meld, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in basil and remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and season with salt to taste.

5. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until al dente. Reserve ½ cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot. Add sauce and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and add reserved cooking water as needed to adjust consistency. Serve immediately, sprinkled with ricotta salata.

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TIPS FOR DEALING WITH EGGPLANT

We love eggplant, but cooking the vegetable can be kind of a pain. It contains a lot of moisture, which means it can end up making your dish watery and bland. It’s also riddled with air pockets that can make it a magnet for oil. And eggplant can have a bitter taste because of the alkaloids in its seeds. But these issues are fixable! Try to avoid really big eggplants (longer than 12 inches); the bigger and older eggplants are more likely to be bitter. If you’re stuck with a large eggplant, slice or cube it, place the pieces in a colander, toss them with salt, and let them drain for 30 minutes. Quickly rinse and thoroughly dry the eggplant before cooking. The salt masks some of the bitterness. Salting is also the answer to watery eggplant; it draws out excess moisture, and you can speed up that step by using the microwave, as we do here. Microwaving first also helps minimize greasiness when sautéing. Another approach is to cook eggplant using dry heat, such as broiling, roasting, or grilling, as they all involve minimal oil (see Broiled Eggplant with Basil and Tahini Sauce).

When shopping for eggplant, look for one that is firm, with smooth skin and no soft or brown spots. It should feel heavy for its size. There are many varieties of eggplant. They can be anywhere from 2 inches to more than a foot long, round or oblong, and purple, white, and even green. Our favorite all-purpose choice is globe eggplant, with its mild flavor and tender texture. Eggplants are very perishable and will get bitter if they overripen, so aim to use them within a day or two. They can be stored in a cool, dry place for the short term, but for more than one or two days, refrigeration is best.

Classic Macaroni and Cheese

Serves 6 to 8; Total Time 1 hour 10 minutes

why this recipe works

Put down the boxed macaroni! We have a delicious, foolproof homemade version that’s fast enough for a weeknight. For a silky sauce with great cheese flavor, we use two cheeses: Monterey Jack for smooth meltability and sharp cheddar for potent flavor. We melt the cheeses into a béchamel sauce—milk that’s thickened with a flour-and-butter roux—and then add cooked pasta and let it heat through on the stovetop. Baking macaroni and cheese can lead to overcooked pasta, curdled cheese, and broken sauce, but since ours is already piping hot when it goes into the baking dish, it needs only a few minutes under the broiler to crisp up the buttery crumb topping. You get all the goodness of a classic macaroni casserole in a fraction of the time. Serve with hot sauce and/or celery salt.

3 slices hearty white sandwich bread, torn into quarters

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces and chilled, plus 5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound elbow macaroni

Salt

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons dry mustard

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

5 cups whole milk

8 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (2 cups)

8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (2 cups)

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat broiler. Pulse bread and 2 tablespoons chilled butter in food processor until coarsely ground, 7 to 10 pulses; set aside.

2. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven. Add macaroni and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring often, until tender. Drain macaroni and set aside in colander.

3. Melt remaining 5 tablespoons butter in now-empty pot over medium-high heat. Whisk in flour, mustard, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon salt and cook for 1 minute. Slowly add milk, whisking constantly until smooth. Bring mixture to boil, reduce heat to medium, and cook, whisking occasionally, until thickened to consistency of heavy cream, about 5 minutes. Off heat, whisk in cheeses until fully melted. Add macaroni and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until steaming and heated through, about 6 minutes.

4. Pour mixture into 13 by 9-inch broiler-safe baking dish. Top with bread-crumb mixture and broil until crumbs are deep golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes, rotating dish if necessary for even browning. Let rest for 5 minutes. Serve.

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SECRET SAUCE

Ask a classically trained chef about mother sauces and they aren’t going to tell you about their mom’s legendary Bolognese. “Mother sauces” are the foundational sauces from French cuisine, which include four roux-based sauces (to read about roux, see this page) that most home cooks have never heard of, plus hollandaise sauce, which you may have had on eggs Benedict. Learning to make the mother sauces has long been a central part of a culinary education, but in modern home cooking they no longer have the status they once did, which is why our sauces section on this page focuses on fresher, faster, more flavorful sauce options. However, it’s useful to know a little about these grandes dames, and we’re still very fond of one in particular: béchamel.

Béchamel is a simple white sauce made from a flour-and-butter roux plus milk. It is the base of a number of creamy dishes, including gratins, creamed spinach, lasagna, and macaroni and cheese, as in this recipe. The steps may seem finicky, but they are there for good reasons. For a proper béchamel, the flour must be adequately cooked to eliminate its raw taste (but not so long that it browns, which would lessen its thickening power) and the milk must be slowly, constantly whisked in to prevent lumps. When it’s correctly made, a béchamel is amazingly rich and glossy and adds depth and silky texture to your dish. When you add cheese to a béchamel, as we do here, it becomes a Mornay sauce.

Sesame Noodles with Shredded Chicken

Serves 4 to 6; Total Time 45 minutes

why this recipe works

Far better than takeout sesame noodles, these avoid the common pitfalls of gummy noodles and bland, pasty sauce. We built our authentic-tasting sauce using pantry staples to deliver the requisite sweet, nutty flavor. Ground together, chunky peanut butter and toasted sesame seeds made the perfect stand-in for hard-to-find Chinese sesame paste. We added fresh garlic and ginger as well as soy sauce, rice vinegar, hot sauce, and brown sugar to the sauce and then thinned it out with water to achieve the best texture. Simple broiled and shredded chicken made this dish a satisfying meal. We prefer the flavor and texture of conventional chunky peanut butter (not natural peanut butter) in the sauce.

SAUCE

¼ cup sesame seeds

5 tablespoons soy sauce

¼ cup chunky peanut butter

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon hot sauce

5 tablespoons hot water

CHICKEN AND NOODLES

1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed

1 pound fresh Chinese noodles or 12 ounces dried spaghetti

1 tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

4 scallions, sliced thin on bias

1 carrot, peeled and shredded

1. FOR THE SAUCE Toast sesame seeds in dry nonstick skillet over medium heat until seeds are gold and fragrant, about 4 minutes. Process soy sauce, 3 tablespoons sesame seeds, peanut butter, vinegar, sugar, ginger, garlic, and hot sauce in blender or food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds. With blender running, add hot water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until sauce has consistency of heavy cream.

2. FOR THE CHICKEN AND NOODLES Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with vegetable oil spray. Place chicken in baking sheet and broil until lightly browned, 4 to 8 minutes. Flip chicken and continue to broil until thermometer inserted in chicken registers 160 degrees, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer chicken to cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes. Using 2 forks, shred chicken into bite-size pieces and set aside.

3. Add noodles and salt to boiling water and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, 4 to 5 minutes for fresh or 10 minutes for dried. Drain noodles, then rinse under cold running water until cool. Drain again, transfer to large bowl, add oil, and toss to coat. Add scallions, carrot, sauce, and shredded chicken and toss to combine. Divide evenly among bowls, sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, and serve.

variation

Sesame Noodles with Sweet Peppers and Cucumbers

Omit chicken. Add 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and sliced into ¼-inch-wide strips, and 1 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut crosswise into ⅛-inch-thick slices, to noodles with sauce. Sprinkle servings with 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro along with sesame seeds.

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TURN UP THE HEAT WITH HOT SAUCE

Usually added in small doses, hot sauce can introduce just the touch of heat that a dish might need, whether used in cooking or as a condiment. But the options can be bewildering. While most hot sauces share the same core ingredients—chiles, vinegar, and salt—their heat levels can vary drastically. When you want to avoid a searingly hot bite, we recommend our favorite traditional hot sauce, Frank’s RedHot Original Cayenne Pepper Sauce, which has mellow heat and deep flavor. It was the base for the original Buffalo sauce recipe.

We also highly recommend Huy Fong Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce (with the iconic rooster label). Sriracha is thicker, sweeter, and more garlicky than Mexican- or Cajun-style hot sauces (such as Frank’s) but we found it works at least as well in just about any application. A related hot sauce, Asian chili-garlic sauce, is like Sriracha but is coarsely ground rather than a smooth paste. Sambal oelek, the Indonesian hot sauce, is made purely from ground chiles, vinegar, and salt, without garlic or other spices, thus adding a purer chile flavor. We don’t recommend Tabasco, the top-selling hot sauce. Its high vinegar content and skimpy amount of salt makes it taste out of balance. Once opened, hot sauces will keep for several months in the refrigerator. Note that some brands of hot sauce are nearly twice as hot as Frank’s, so be careful the first time you use one.

Shrimp Pad Thai

Serves 4; Total Time 40 minutes

why this recipe works

With its sweet-and-sour, salty-spicy sauce and plump sweet shrimp, pad thai is Thailand’s best-known rice noodle dish. But making it can be a chore, thanks to a lengthy ingredient list with hard-to-find items. We found we could achieve just the right balance of flavors in the sauce by using a mixture of fish sauce, lime juice, rice vinegar, and brown sugar. We quickly sautéed our shrimp until just spotty brown, then removed them to finish later. To get the texture of the noodles just right, we soaked them in hot water to soften, then stir-fried them until tender with the shrimp, sauce, scrambled egg, bean sprouts, scallions, and peanuts. No pad thai is complete without garnishes. We finished ours with cilantro and lime wedges. For some heat and brightness, pass around a simple chile vinegar made by combining ⅓ cup distilled white vinegar and 1 sliced serrano chile (let sit for at least 15 minutes). Or serve with Sriracha. Do not substitute other types of noodles for the rice noodles here.

8 ounces (¼-inch-wide) rice noodles

¼ cup lime juice (2 limes), plus lime wedges for serving

3 tablespoons fish sauce

3 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

¼ cup vegetable oil

12 ounces medium shrimp (41 to 50 per pound), peeled and deveined (see this page)

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

¼ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons unsalted dry-roasted peanuts, chopped

6 ounces (3 cups) bean sprouts

5 scallions, sliced thin on bias

Fresh cilantro leaves

1. Cover noodles with very hot tap water in large bowl and stir to separate. Let noodles soak until softened, pliable, and limp but not fully tender, about 20 minutes; drain. In separate bowl, whisk ⅓ cup water, lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, vinegar, and 2 tablespoons oil together.

2. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add shrimp in single layer and cook, without stirring, until beginning to brown, about 1 minute. Stir shrimp and continue to cook until spotty brown and just pink around edges, about 30 seconds; transfer to bowl.

3. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and garlic to skillet and cook over medium heat until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in eggs and salt and cook, stirring vigorously, until eggs are scrambled, about 20 seconds.

4. Add noodles and lime juice mixture. Increase heat to high and cook, tossing gently, until noodles are evenly coated. Add shrimp, ¼ cup peanuts, bean sprouts, and three-quarters of scallions. Cook, tossing constantly, until noodles are tender, about 2 minutes. (If necessary, add 2 tablespoons water to skillet and continue to cook until noodles are tender.) Transfer noodles to serving platter and sprinkle with remaining peanuts, remaining scallions, and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges.

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FAKE IT TILL YOU MAKE IT

There’s a time and place for strict authenticity, but we often strive to mimic authentic flavors and textures with more widely available ingredients and approachable techniques in order to enjoy the dishes we love, such as pad thai, more often. Truly authentic pad thai as made in Bangkok contains several ingredients that are probably not feasible for the average cook’s weeknight dinner, including dried shrimp, preserved daikon radish, palm sugar, and tamarind. How to simplify pad thai while retaining its integrity? Our focus was to re-create the essential flavor profile even if we lost some nuance along the way. The interplay of salty, sweet, and sour tastes is the primary characteristic of pad thai. These flavors typically come from pungent, saline fish sauce; caramel-like palm sugar; and sour, fruity tamarind. Fish sauce is now available in most supermarkets, so it needed no substitute. Brown sugar, with its toffee-like sweetness, stood in well for palm sugar. Tamarind is becoming more available, but for an everyday option we looked to fresh lime juice for fruity sourness. Garnishes play a big role in pad thai, too, bringing texture and layers of flavor. We skipped the preserved daikon and looked to mung bean sprouts and peanuts for crunch and cilantro for herbal freshness. And so, by mixing some authentic ingredients with creative swaps, we worked just the right kind of weeknight alchemy.

Almost Hands-Free Risotto with Parmesan and Herbs

Serves 6; Total Time 50 minutes

why this recipe works

Risotto is Italian comfort food made from a special type of rice called Arborio. Its short grains release a lot of starch as they cook, which combines with the liquid to produce a creamy sauce. Usually risotto recipes require near-constant stirring to release the starch and prevent the rice from burning, making for a very hands-on dish. To reduce stirring to a minimum, we flooded the rice with cooking liquid at the outset, rather than adding it in small increments, and covered the pot. This allowed the natural agitation of the simmering rice to take the place of stirring—save for a few minutes of vigorous stirring at the very end. You end up with perfect risotto. Top servings with shaved Parmesan or dressed greens for an elegant presentation. While this method is pretty hands-off, it does require precise timing, so we recommend using a timer.

5 cups chicken broth

1½ cups water

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion, chopped fine

Salt and pepper

1 garlic clove, minced

2 cups Arborio rice

1 cup dry white wine

2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1. Bring broth and water to boil in large saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain gentle simmer.

2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion and ¾ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring frequently, until onion is softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add garlic and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add rice and cook, stirring frequently, until grains are translucent around edges, about 3 minutes.

3. Add wine and cook, stirring constantly, until fully absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Measure out 5 cups hot broth mixture and stir into rice. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until almost all liquid has been absorbed and rice is just al dente, 16 to 19 minutes, stirring twice during cooking.

4. Add ¾ cup hot broth mixture and stir gently and constantly until risotto becomes creamy, about 3 minutes. Stir in Parmesan. Remove pot from heat, cover, and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons butter, lemon juice, parsley, and chives. To loosen texture of risotto, add remaining broth mixture as needed. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.

variations

Almost Hands-Free Risotto with Fennel and Saffron

Add 1 fennel bulb, cored and chopped fine, to pot with onion and cook until softened, about 12 minutes. Add ¼ teaspoon ground coriander and large pinch saffron threads to pot with garlic.

Almost Hands-Free Risotto with Porcini

Add ¼ ounce rinsed and minced dried porcini mushrooms to pot with garlic. Substitute soy sauce for lemon juice.

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“TO THE TOOTH”

You’ve probably seen the instruction to cook an ingredient until it is “al dente.” This Italian term, meaning “to the tooth,” indicates the pasta or rice or other grain is fully cooked but still firm when bitten. The texture is a hallmark of risotto. Arborio rice, traditionally used in risotto, actually has a natural defect that helps its grains retain this desirable bite even after simmering. During maturation, the starch structures at the grain’s core deform, making for a firm, toothy center when cooked.

What would happen if we attempted risotto with another rice, we wondered? We made a classic Parmesan risotto with four kinds of rice: standard long grain, converted parcooked long grain, regular medium grain, and sushi-style short-grain rice. The two long-grain varieties bombed, turning mushy and lacking creaminess. Medium- and short-grain rice fared much better, turning perfectly creamy, but not toothsome. So if you don’t have Arborio, you can substitute another medium- or short-grain rice in your risotto, but you won’t get the same characteristic al dente bite.

Pasta Frittata with Sausage and Hot Peppers

Serves 4 to 6; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Pasta frittatas were invented as a way to turn leftover pasta into a new meal. Since “leftover pasta” is not a concept we’re familiar with, we wanted to find a way to make this dish from uncooked dried pasta. After a few tests, it was clear that angel hair was best for the job: The delicate strands brought a satisfying web of pasta to every bite without marring the tender egg texture. In our easy one-skillet method, the angel hair cooks in minimal water and a bit of oil; when the water has evaporated, the pasta starts to fry in the oil, turning crispy. We then added our egg mixture and cooked it gently, ensuring that the exterior didn’t overcook while the interior came up to temperature. Sausage and cherry peppers provided richness and a bit of heat. You will need a 10-inch nonstick skillet with a tight-fitting lid. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a salad.

8 large eggs

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons coarsely chopped jarred hot cherry peppers

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Salt and pepper

8 ounces sweet Italian sausage, casings removed, crumbled

2 garlic cloves, sliced thin

3 cups water

6 ounces angel hair pasta, broken in half

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1. Whisk eggs, Parmesan, olive oil, peppers, parsley, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in large bowl until egg is evenly colored; set aside.

2. Cook sausage in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, breaking it up with wooden spoon, until fat renders and sausage is about half cooked, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Remove skillet from heat. Transfer sausage mixture (some sausage will still be raw) to bowl with egg mixture. Wipe out skillet with paper towels.

3. Bring water, pasta, vegetable oil, and ¾ teaspoon salt to boil in now-empty skillet over high heat, stirring occasionally. Cook, stirring occasionally, until pasta is tender, water has evaporated, and pasta starts to sizzle in oil, 8 to 12 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and continue to cook pasta, swirling pan and scraping under edge of pasta with rubber spatula frequently to prevent sticking (do not stir), until bottom turns golden and starts to crisp, 5 to 7 minutes longer (lift up edge of pasta to check progress).

4. Using spatula, push some pasta up sides of skillet so entire pan surface is covered with pasta. Pour egg mixture over pasta. Using tongs, lift up loose strands of pasta to allow egg to flow toward bottom of pan, being careful not to pull up crispy bottom crust. Cover skillet and continue to cook over medium heat until bottom crust turns golden brown and top of frittata is just set (egg below very top will still be raw), 5 to 8 minutes longer.

5. Slide frittata onto large plate. Invert frittata onto second large plate and slide it, browned side up, back into skillet. Tuck edges of frittata into skillet with rubber spatula. Continue to cook second side until light brown, 2 to 4 minutes longer.

6. Remove skillet from heat and let stand for 5 minutes. Using your hand or pan lid, invert frittata onto cutting board. Cut into wedges and serve.

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WASTE NOT, WANT NOT: PICKLE BRINE

If you pour the liquid in a jar of pickled or preserved vegetables down the sink in your pursuit of the ingredients themselves, we are here to tell you that you are letting liquid gold slip through your fingers. Not only has that brine been carefully seasoned, it has also developed all kinds of complex flavors during the pickling process. In certain recipes, such as Kimchi Beef and Tofu Soup or California-Style Fish Tacos, we call for the brine to deepen the dish’s flavors or even repurpose it to pickle other vegetables.

But even when we don’t, we still recommend saving the brine, as with the jarred hot cherry peppers used in this dish. You can use leftover brine to make a quick pickle by adding thinly sliced onion or radishes to the juice and letting them marinate for a few days in the refrigerator. Drain the vegetables to use as a topping for sandwiches, salads, or grain bowls. You can also add a splash of brine to mayonnaise to make a tangy spread. The oil that some sun-dried tomatoes or olives comes packed in is similarly flavorful; try brushing it on a pizza crust before adding toppings or incorporating it into a salad dressing.

The Burger Lover’s Burger

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour 10 minutes

why this recipe works

How come restaurant burgers are so much better than the ones you make at home? One big reason is that your favorite restaurants are probably grinding their own meat; and you can too. We started by partially freezing chunks of sirloin steak tips so that they’d grind up relatively coarse in the food processor. Adding melted butter to the meat improved the burgers’ flavor and juiciness and boosted browning. To give our burgers a great crust and juicy interior, we seared them in a hot skillet on the stovetop before transferring them to the gentler heat of the oven to cook through evenly. Take care not to overwork the meat or the burgers will be dense. Sirloin steak tips are also sold as flap meat. You can substitute 85 percent lean ground beef for the steak tips; omit butter, skip steps 1 and 2, and proceed with the recipe as directed. For the best flavor, season the burgers aggressively just before cooking. Serve with Pub-Style Burger Sauce and your favorite toppings.

1½ pounds sirloin steak tips, trimmed and cut into ½-inch chunks

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Salt and pepper

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

4 hamburger buns, toasted if desired

1. Arrange beef chunks on rimmed baking sheet in single layer. Freeze until meat is very firm and starting to harden around edges but still pliable, about 35 minutes.

2. Place one-quarter of meat in food processor and pulse until finely ground into rice-grain-size pieces (about ¹⁄₁₆ inch), about 20 pulses, stopping and redistributing meat as needed to ensure beef is evenly ground. Transfer meat to baking sheet. Repeat grinding with remaining meat in 3 batches. Spread meat over sheet and inspect carefully, discarding any long strands of gristle or large chunks of hard meat or fat.

3. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 300 degrees. Drizzle meat with melted butter, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon pepper, and gently toss with fork to combine. Divide meat into 4 balls. Toss each between your hands until uniformly but lightly packed. Gently flatten into patties ¾ inch thick and about 4½ inches in diameter. Refrigerate patties until ready to cook. (Patties can be refrigerated for up to 1 day.)

4. Season 1 side of patties liberally with salt and pepper. Using spatula, flip patties and season other side. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over high heat until just smoking. Using spatula, transfer burgers to skillet and cook without moving for 2 minutes. Using spatula, flip burgers and continue to cook for 2 minutes longer. Transfer burgers to clean rimmed baking sheet and bake until until thermometer inserted into center of burger from top edge registers 125 degrees for medium-rare or 130 degrees for medium, 3 to 6 minutes.

5. Transfer burgers to plate and let rest for 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to buns and serve.

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BE YOUR OWN BUTCHER

Buying ground meat at the supermarket is a crapshoot; unless your butcher grinds to order, there’s no way to know what you’re getting. The cut, fat content, and texture can vary widely. Store-bought ground beef is often processed to a pulp, so it cooks up heavy and dense, which is especially apparent in a burger. But when you grind meat yourself in a food processor, you control all the variables. The trick is to pick the right cut and to grind the meat fine enough to ensure tenderness but coarse enough that the patty will stay loose. (Underprocessed meat will be gristly and chunky; overprocessed meat will be pasty.) While chuck is often used for commercial ground beef, it contains connective tissue that must be removed before grinding. So we prefer to use sirloin steak tips for burgers, as they are well marbled and require little trimming. You can also use more than one cut, in order to engineer the right mix of flavor and fat for your burger; boneless short ribs can be a nice addition, and boneless country-style pork ribs and pork tenderloin also grind well.

When grinding meat, we recommend partially freezing it first. That way, the food processor cuts the pieces cleanly instead of pulverizing them. When grinding your own meat, process it in small batches, stopping to redistribute it around the bowl as necessary to ensure a precise, even grind. The exact size of the grind will depend of the type of meat you’re using and the type of dish. After grinding, spread the mixture on a rimmed baking sheet and discard any long strands of gristle or large chunks of hard meat or fat.

Pork and Broccoli Rabe Sandwiches

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Sandwiches for dinner doesn’t have to be a last resort. A hearty, well-made sandwich is a meal in itself and nothing to be ashamed of on your dinner plate. This rich, complex pork sandwich is a classic from Philadelphia that combines juicy pork, garlicky broccoli rabe, and melty provolone. For a streamlined home version, we roasted the meat and vegetables side by side on a sheet pan. We started with quick-cooking pork tenderloin seasoned heavily with rosemary and fennel seeds. Alongside the tenderloin, we roasted broccoli rabe, tossed with lots of garlic and some pepper flakes for added dimensions of flavor, and sweet red bell pepper, which complemented the bitter greens. While the meat rested, we toasted the rolls; slices of provolone melted over the buns gave us the extra richness we needed to make these sandwiches perfect.

1 (16-ounce) pork tenderloin, trimmed

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin

4 (6-inch) Italian sub rolls, split lengthwise

6 ounces sliced provolone cheese

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Rub tenderloin with 2 tablespoons oil, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with rosemary and fennel seeds. Place on 1 side of rimmed baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes.

2. Toss broccoli rabe with 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in bowl. In separate bowl, toss bell peppers with 1 tablespoon oil and season with salt and pepper. Remove sheet from oven and flip pork. Spread broccoli rabe and bell peppers on hot sheet next to pork. Continue to roast until thermometer inserted into pork registers 145 degrees and broccoli rabe and bell peppers are browned, about 20 minutes.

3. Remove sheet from oven. Transfer pork to cutting board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Transfer vegetables to bowl and cover with foil to keep warm. Wipe sheet clean with paper towels, lay split rolls open on sheet, and top with cheese. Bake rolls until bread is lightly toasted and cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.

4. Slice pork as thinly as possible, transfer to clean bowl, and toss with remaining 1 tablespoon oil and vinegar. Nestle pork, broccoli rabe, and bell peppers into warm rolls and serve.

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THE BROCCOLI FAMILY

Between the broccoli, broccolini, and broccoli rabe at the supermarket, it’s hard to keep them all straight. So what sets them apart? We’re all familiar with broccoli, the cruciferous vegetable that’s a relative of cabbage. Broccolini is a cross between broccoli and Chinese broccoli (which is itself a bittersweet, leafy relative of ordinary broccoli). It has an elongated stem with tender shoots and a sweet, slightly mineral taste. Broccoli rabe, also known as rapini, has long leafy stems with green buds similar to broccoli flowers, even though it is the same subspecies as a turnip. Raw broccoli rabe has a pungent, bitter flavor, which is tamed by cooking. Its bitterness brings plenty of character to a dish and often tastes best in the presence of something sweet (such as the red peppers in this sandwich) or rich (such as the pork and cheese). Broccoli rabe also perks up milder flavors, such as the white beans and farro in our Farro and Broccoli Rabe Gratin. And it is excellent in soups, blanched, broiled, or braised.

Grown-Up Grilled Cheese with Cheddar and Shallot

Serves 4; Total Time 30 minutes

why this recipe works

Grilled cheese has a kids’ menu reputation, but just a few tweaks make it a sophisticated dinner option. To create a sandwich with more robust flavor and personality without going overboard on toppings and additions, we focused on the cheese. Our recipe began by mixing flavorful aged cheddar with a small amount of Brie and some wine in a food processor. Those two ingredients helped the cheddar melt evenly without becoming greasy. A little bit of shallot increased the sandwiches’ complexity without detracting from the cheese, and a smear of mustard-butter on the bread added a sharp bite. Look for a cheddar aged for about one year (avoid cheddar aged for longer; it won’t melt well). To bring the cheddar to room temperature quickly, microwave the pieces until warm, about 30 seconds.

7 ounces aged cheddar cheese, cut into 24 equal pieces, room temperature

2 ounces Brie cheese, rind removed

2 tablespoons dry white wine or dry vermouth

4 teaspoons minced shallot

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

8 slices hearty white sandwich bread

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Process cheddar, Brie, and wine in food processor until smooth paste forms, 20 to 30 seconds. Add shallot and pulse to combine, 3 to 5 pulses; transfer to bowl. In separate bowl, combine butter and mustard.

2. Brush butter-mustard mixture evenly over 1 side of each slice of bread. Flip 4 slices over and spread cheese mixture evenly over second side. Top with remaining 4 slices bread, buttered side up, and press down gently.

3. Heat 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes. Place 2 sandwiches in skillet, reduce heat to medium-low, and cook until both sides are crisp and golden brown, 6 to 9 minutes per side.

4. Transfer sandwiches to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and keep warm in oven. Wipe out skillet with paper towels and cook remaining 2 sandwiches. Serve.

variations

Grown-Up Grilled Cheese with Comté and Cornichon

Substitute Comté for cheddar, minced cornichon for shallot, and rye sandwich bread for white sandwich bread.

Grown-Up Grilled Cheese with Gruyère and Chives

Substitute Gruyère for cheddar, chives for shallot, and rye sandwich bread for white sandwich bread.

Grown-Up Grilled Cheese with Asiago and Dates

Substitute Asiago for cheddar, finely chopped pitted dates for shallot, and oatmeal sandwich bread for white sandwich bread.

Grown-Up Grilled Cheese with Robiola and Chipotle

Substitute Robiola, rind removed, for cheddar; ¼ teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce for shallot; and oatmeal sandwich bread for white sandwich bread.

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HOW CHEESE MELTS

You may have noticed that not all cheese reacts the same way when heated. Some melt into a creamy, cohesive mass, while others just become greasy and grainy. Obviously this is a key subject to understand in order to make the best possible grilled cheese sandwich. First, it helps to know that cheese doesn’t melt in the true sense, like an ice cube. Instead, the protein casein, the solid component that gives cheese its structure, breaks down in the presence of heat. The protein molecules then separate and flow, which gives the appearance of melting. Relatively young cheeses, such as fontina and mozzarella, have a high moisture content and a weaker protein structure, allowing the protein to flow at lower temperatures. This higher moisture content means that these cheeses have less of a tendency to “break” and become greasy when they melt.

On the other hand, aged cheeses, such as Gruyère and cheddar, have less moisture and a stronger protein network, which means they melt at higher temperatures. They also contain a lot of fat, which can melt before the proteins begin to flow, leading to breaking and causing greasiness. Once melted, the more developed protein structures in these cheeses break down, leaving behind a gritty texture. (Older definitely isn’t better when it comes to cheddar cheeses used for melting; stick with moderately aged cheddars; save the older stuff for eating plain.) To combat this issue in our reengineered grilled cheese, we added a little soft, young Brie and wine to the flavorful aged cheddar that we knew we wanted at the heart of our sandwich and processed everything together. The addition of moisture and a younger, meltier cheese helped the filling melt smoothly and evenly, without any greasiness.

Black Bean Burgers

Serves 6; Total Time 40 minutes (plus 1 to 24 hours chilling)

why this recipe works

A veggie burger sounds good in theory. So why do so many taste like hockey pucks, fall apart in the pan, or require a hodgepodge of ingredients? Well, not this burger. Starting with black beans (dried on paper towels to eliminate moisture) gave us a substantial base. To avoid a crumbly burger we minimized starchy binders, finding help in ground tortilla chips, which worked as a binder (along with eggs and a tiny bit of flour) and added toasty corn flavor. Pulsing our beans only coarsely prevented the burgers from becoming gummy. To ensure they held together, we refrigerated the mixture for at least an hour, allowing the starches to absorb additional moisture. (Prepare the patties a day ahead for a faster meal.) To build a Southwestern flavor, we added scallions, cilantro, garlic, cumin, and coriander, plus hot sauce for zip. When forming the patties it is important to pack them firmly together. Serve with Chipotle Mayonnaise and your favorite toppings.

2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed

1 ounce tortilla chips, crushed coarse (½ cup)

4 scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves

2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon hot sauce

½ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

¼ cup vegetable oil

6 hamburger buns

1. Line rimmed baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels and spread black beans over towels. Let stand for 15 minutes.

2. Process tortilla chips in food processor until finely ground, about 30 seconds. Add scallions, cilantro, and garlic and pulse until finely chopped, about 15 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Add beans and pulse until beans are roughly broken down, about 5 pulses.

3. Whisk eggs, flour, cumin, hot sauce, coriander, salt, and pepper together in large bowl until well combined. Add bean mixture and mix until just combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Divide bean mixture into 6 equal portions. Firmly pack each portion into tight ball, then flatten to 3½-inch-wide burgers.

5. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Carefully place 3 burgers in skillet and cook until bottoms are well browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Flip burgers, add 1 tablespoon oil, and cook second side until well browned and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer burgers to prepared rack and keep warm in oven. Repeat with remaining 3 patties and remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Transfer burgers to buns and serve.

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TOPPINGS FOR ANY BURGER

Don’t let restaurants have all the fun; take your toppings beyond lettuce, tomato, and onion. Upgrades such as bacon (see this page) and fried eggs (see this page) are pretty ubiquitous on pub menus, but there’s a world of options. The Pub-Style Burger Sauce is classic, as is the Chipotle Mayonnaise used here, but many of the sauces on this page would also be great, whether on a bean burger or The Burger Lover’s Burger. Or try the ideas below.

Tex-Mex Burger

Guacamole, sour cream, salsa, and pickled jalapeños

Bistro Burger

Blue cheese, bacon, and caramelized onions (see this page)

Italian Burger

Either type of pesto (see this page), fresh mozzarella cheese, tomato, and roasted garlic on focaccia

California Burger

Chipotle Mayonnaise, sliced avocado, sprouts, and sliced cucumbers on a whole-wheat bun

Aïoli Burger

Garlic Aïoli, Roasted Red Peppers, and Bibb lettuce on a brioche roll

Mushroom Burger

Mustard, Gruyère, Sautéed Mushrooms with Shallot and Thyme, and baby arugula on a pretzel bun

Tofu Banh Mi

Serves 4; Total Time 45 minutes

why this recipe works

Banh mi sandwiches inspired by Vietnamese street food have become hugely popular in the United States. For a homemade take that is low fuss but high flavor, we started with a base of crispy tofu. We sliced the tofu into slabs and drained them on paper towels to make it easier to get a crust. Then we dredged the tofu slabs in cornstarch and seared them in a hot skillet until they were nicely browned. Crunchy pickled vegetables are a hallmark of banh mi, so we used a quick-pickling technique to infuse cucumber slices and shredded carrots with tons of flavor in just a little bit of time. Sriracha-spiked mayonnaise gave the sandwich a spicy kick, while a sprinkling of fresh cilantro added an authentic garnish. To make the sandwiches vegetarian, use Bragg Liquid Aminos instead of the fish sauce (see “Vegetarian Substitutes for Fishy Ingredients”). You can use firm or extra-firm tofu in this recipe.

14 ounces firm tofu

2 carrots, peeled and shredded

⅔ cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded (see this page), and sliced thin

1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

1 tablespoon fish sauce

¼ cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Sriracha sauce

Salt and pepper

⅓ cup cornstarch

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 (8-inch) Italian sub rolls, split lengthwise and toasted

⅓ cup fresh cilantro leaves

1. Slice tofu crosswise into eight ⅔-inch-thick slabs. Arrange tofu on paper towel–lined baking sheet and let sit for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, combine carrots, cucumber, lime juice, and fish sauce in bowl and let sit for 15 minutes. Whisk mayonnaise, Sriracha, and lime zest together in separate bowl.

2. Gently press tofu dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Spread cornstarch in shallow dish. Dredge tofu in cornstarch, pressing gently to adhere, and transfer to plate.

3. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add tofu and cook until both sides are crisp and browned, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towel–lined plate.

4. Spread mayonnaise mixture evenly over cut sides of each roll. Assemble 4 sandwiches by layering ingredients as follows in rolls: tofu, pickled vegetables (leaving liquid in bowl), and cilantro. Press gently on sandwiches to set. Serve.

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VEGETARIAN SUBSTITUTES FOR FISHY INGREDIENTS

To make our Tofu Banh Mi completely vegetarian and not just pescatarian-friendly, you will need to use a fish sauce substitute that doesn’t contain seafood products. Traditional fish sauce is a salty, amber-colored liquid made from fermented fish. It’s rich in glutamates, tastebud stimulators that give food the meaty, savory flavor known as umami. Another seafood-based condiment to be aware of is oyster sauce, which indeed contains oysters. Often used in Chinese stir-fries such as our Restaurant-Style Beef Stir-Fry, it’s a thick, salty brown sauce made from a rich, concentrated mixture of oysters, soy sauce, brine, and seasonings. Many recipes in Asian cuisines rely on both of these ingredients.

As a vegetarian substitute for fish sauce, we like Bragg Liquid Aminos. Made from 16 amino acids derived from soybeans (amino acids are the structural units that make up proteins), it is advertised as a healthy alternative to soy sauce, but our tasters found it to be surprisingly similar to fish sauce, offering a great saltiness with a bit of fermented flavor. When it comes to oyster sauce, you can find vegetarian options, made from mushrooms, in stores and online.

Spicy Tofu and Basil Lettuce Cups

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

This fresh, flavorful dish takes inspiration from Thai cuisine. A filling of mild tofu punched up with basil, garlic, and spicy Thai chiles is served in crisp, cool lettuce cups. Chewy rice vermicelli provides heft to this light meal, and quick pickled carrots make the perfect tangy foil to the spicy tofu. You can use either firm or extra-firm tofu in this dish. You can also use red or green Thai chiles. If fresh Thai chiles are unavailable, substitute two serranos or one jalapeño. For a milder version, remove the seeds and ribs from the chiles.

28 ounces extra-firm tofu, cut into 2-inch pieces

3 carrots, peeled and shredded

5 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons plus ¾ teaspoon sugar

4 ounces rice vermicelli

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegetable oil

4 cups fresh basil leaves

6 Thai chiles, stemmed

6 garlic cloves, peeled

¼ cup soy sauce

6 shallots, halved and sliced thin

½ cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped

2 heads Bibb lettuce (1 pound), leaves separated

1. Pulse tofu in food processor until coarsely chopped, about 5 pulses. Spread tofu over paper towel–lined baking sheet and let drain for 20 minutes. Gently press dry with paper towels and set aside.

2. Meanwhile, combine carrots, 3 tablespoons vinegar, and ¾ teaspoon sugar in bowl and toss to combine; set aside.

3. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in medium saucepan. Off heat, add vermicelli to hot water and let stand until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain vermicelli in colander and rinse under cold running water until water runs clear. Drain well then transfer to bowl; toss with 1 tablespoon vinegar and 1 teaspoon oil.

4. Place 2 cups basil, Thai chiles, and garlic in now-empty food processor and pulse until finely chopped, about 15 pulses, scraping down sides of bowl as needed. Transfer 2 tablespoons basil mixture to bowl and stir in soy sauce, remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar, and remaining 2 tablespoons sugar; set aside. Transfer remaining basil mixture to 12-inch nonstick skillet.

5. Stir drained tofu, shallots, and remaining 3 tablespoons oil into skillet with basil mixture. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture starts to brown and tofu appears crumbly, about 15 minutes.

6. Stir reserved basil-soy mixture into skillet and cook, stirring constantly, until well coated, about 1 minute. Add remaining 2 cups basil and cook, stirring constantly, until wilted, 30 to 60 seconds. Off heat, stir in peanuts; transfer mixture to platter. Fill lettuce leaves with noodles and top with tofu mixture and pickled carrots (leaving liquid in bowl). Serve.

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PICKLES IN A HURRY

Using a topping of picked vegetables is a great way to add texture and tang to a dish, but traditional pickles take hours, days, or even longer to brine. Of course all kinds of pickles are available at the supermarket but we’ve also come up with some tips for making faster pickled vegetables to use as high-impact toppings in a fraction of the time (and for much less money than premium premade options). In this recipe, we pickle carrots. See Vegetable Bibimbap and Tofu Banh Mi for other quick-pickle options, and keep these tricks in mind.

Shredding is Grate

If you shred or thinly slice the veggies you want to pickle, it’s easier for the pieces to absorb the brine quickly. We shred carrots here but thinly sliced radishes or cucumbers also work well. We pickle thinly sliced red onions in our California-Style Fish Tacos).

Let Time Work for You

Make your quick pickle when you start cooking so that it has time to sit and develop flavor while you do everything else. It’s the easiest kitchen multitasking you’ll ever do.

Cauliflower Steaks with Salsa Verde

Serves 4; Total Time 45 minutes

why this recipe works

With more and more people going meatless at least some of the time, it’s useful to rethink what we consider a main ingredient. Dinner doesn’t always have to be meat and two vegetables. Case in point: cauliflower steaks. When you cook thick planks of cauliflower, they develop a substantial, meaty texture and become nutty and sweet. First steaming the steaks on a baking sheet covered in foil, then finishing with uncovered high-heat roasting, produced four caramelized seared steaks with tender interiors. A bright green salsa verde elevated them to centerpiece status. Look for fresh, firm, bright white heads of cauliflower that feel heavy for their size and are free of blemishes or soft spots; florets are more likely to separate from older heads of cauliflower. Pair this with a simple grain, such as Quinoa Pilaf with Herbs and Lemon).

2 heads cauliflower (2 pounds each)

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 recipe Salsa Verde

Lemon wedges

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Working with 1 head cauliflower at a time, discard outer leaves of cauliflower and trim stem flush with bottom florets. Halve cauliflower lengthwise through core. Cut one 1½-inch-thick slab lengthwise from each half, trimming any florets not connected to core. Repeat with remaining cauliflower. (You should have 4 steaks; reserve remaining cauliflower for another use.)

2. Place steaks on rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt and ⅛ teaspoon pepper and rub to distribute. Flip steaks and repeat.

3. Cover baking sheet tightly with aluminum foil and roast for 5 minutes. Remove foil and roast until bottoms of steaks are well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Gently flip and continue to roast until tender and second sides are well browned, 6 to 8 more minutes.

4. Transfer steaks to platter and brush evenly with ¼ cup salsa verde. Serve with lemon wedges and remaining salsa verde.

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MEATY MEAL-MAKERS

Vegetables have often been relegated to side dishes and salads, but the ones that follow definitely deserve center-of-the-plate status. A variety of different preparation methods can expand their potential, giving them main dish status. Here are a few ingredients that we like for the hearty textures and deep flavors that make them particularly well suited for taking the place of meat in your meals.

Cauliflower Is Everything

A surprising workhorse that takes extremely well to being roasted like meat, cauliflower shines in dishes associated with cuts of meat, as in these cauliflower steaks, and also in hearty roasted vegetable salads such as our North African Cauliflower Salad with Chermoula. It also helps add heartiness and deep flavor to our vegetarian curry (this page). (Not to mention that it makes an astonishingly good grain-free substitute for rice—see this page.)

Exceptional Eggplant

Eggplant is a powerhouse vegetable. It has robust flavor, its texture can range from silky to meaty, and it’s filling. This makes it a versatile option, from everyday Pasta alla Norma, where it gives satisfying meat-like heft to tomato sauce, to a company-worthy Stuffed Eggplant with Bulgur.

Bean Burgers Can’t Be Beat

Black beans make a vegetarian burger that’s just as hearty as one made from ground meat. It’s also super-easy to add flavor to a bean burger without worries about the integrity of the patty; the texture is much more forgiving than meat. For our Black Bean Burgers, we opted for a Southwestern profile, using ground tortilla chips, scallions, cilantro, garlic, cumin, coriander, and just a dash of hot sauce. Black beans also made a stellar chili (see this page), boosted with plenty of umami-rich seasonings.

Farro and Broccoli Rabe Gratin

Serves 6; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Casseroles get a bad rap for being stodgy, heavy, and old-fashioned. We set out to create a new kind of vegetarian casserole that was both hearty and healthy. We chose Italian flavors, accenting nutty farro with creamy white beans, bitter broccoli rabe, and salty Parmesan. Toasting the farro gave it some extra nuttiness and jump-started the cooking process. Blanching broccoli rabe in salted water tamed its bitterness. We then sautéed it with garlic and pepper flakes for extra flavor. Sun-dried tomatoes contributed the extra pop of flavor we were after. All that was left was to combine all the ingredients in a baking dish, dust with Parmesan, and stick it under the broiler to brown the cheese. Do not substitute pearled (perlato), quick-cooking, or presteamed farro for the whole farro in this recipe; you may need to read the ingredient list on the package carefully to determine if the farro is presteamed.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, chopped fine

1½ cups whole farro, rinsed

2 cups vegetable broth

4 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (2 cups)

Salt and pepper

1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths

6 garlic cloves, minced

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (15-ounce) can small white beans or navy beans, rinsed

½ cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, chopped

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in farro and cook until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Stir in broth and 1½ cups water and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low and continue to simmer, stirring often, until farro is just tender and remaining liquid has thickened into creamy sauce, 20 to 25 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 cup Parmesan and season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven. Add broccoli rabe and 1 tablespoon salt and cook until just tender, about 2 minutes. Drain broccoli rabe and transfer to bowl.

3. Wipe now-empty pot dry, add remaining 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and pepper flakes, and cook over medium heat until fragrant and sizzling, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in drained broccoli rabe and cook until hot and well coated, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in farro mixture, beans, and sun-dried tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Adjust oven rack 6 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Pour bean-farro mixture into 13 by 9-inch broiler-safe baking dish and sprinkle with remaining 1 cup Parmesan. Broil until lightly browned and hot, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes before serving.

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PYREX VS. THE BROILER

For this gratin, you need a broiler-safe baking dish. Not all materials are safe to go under the high heat of the broiler, and that includes our favorite all-purpose casserole dish, the 13 by 9-inch Pyrex tempered glass baking dish. That workhorse has many pluses: It’s inexpensive, and the transparent glass makes it easy to track browning. It won’t react with acidic foods such as tomatoes (metal pans can) and is safe for use with metal utensils. However, Pyrex does not recommend that its tempered glassware go under the broiler; abrupt temperature changes can cause it to crack or shatter, a condition called thermal shock. Unlike tempered glass (and metal pans with nonstick coatings), many ceramic baking dishes are broiler-safe. (Enameled cast-iron dishes are, too, but we find them to be heavy and challenging to maneuver.) So when it comes to dishes that spend time under the broiler’s intense heat, we like to use the light-weight HIC Porcelain Lasagna Baking Dish. See our shopping guide on this page for more information.

Artichoke, Pepper, and Chickpea Tagine

Serves 4 to 6; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Tagines are complexly spiced North African stews. Many feature long-braised meats, but they can also highlight boldly flavored vegetables, as in this filling tagine that is packed with chunks of artichokes, peppers, and tender chickpeas and spiked with pungent garlic, lots of warm spices, briny olives, and tangy lemon. For the aromatic lemon flavor that distinguishes tagines, we used lemon zest two ways—first as strips that we cooked with the vegetables, then as grated zest, which we stirred in at the end for a fresh hit of lemon. To thaw the artichokes quickly, microwave them, covered, for 3 to 5 minutes. Plain whole-milk yogurt can be substituted for Greek, but the sauce will be thinner. A rasp-style grater makes quick work of turning the garlic into a paste. Serve with couscous.

18 ounces frozen artichokes, thawed

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

2 yellow or red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and sliced

1 onion, halved and sliced ¼ inch thick

4 (2-inch) strips lemon zest plus 1 teaspoon grated zest (2 lemons)

8 garlic cloves (6 minced, 2 minced to paste)

1 tablespoon paprika

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups vegetable broth

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed

½ cup pitted kalamata olives, halved

½ cup golden raisins

2 tablespoons honey

½ cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt

½ cup minced fresh cilantro

Salt and pepper

1. Part artichokes dry and cut into quarters if they aren’t already. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add artichokes and cook until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer to bowl.

2. Add 1 tablespoon oil to now-empty pot and heat over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in bell peppers, onion, and lemon zest strips and cook until vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in minced garlic, paprika, cumin, ginger, coriander, cinnamon, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute.

3. Gradually whisk in broth, scraping up any browned bits and smoothing out any lumps. Stir in browned artichokes, chickpeas, olives, raisins, and honey and bring to simmer. Cover, reduce to gentle simmer, and cook until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.

4. Off heat, discard lemon zest strips. Stir ¼ cup of hot liquid into yogurt to temper, then stir yogurt mixture into pot. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons oil, grated lemon zest, garlic paste, and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve, drizzling individual portions lightly with additional olive oil.

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THE BEST ZEST

Citrus zest is the outermost part of the citrus peel—the colorful part of the rind. This is where most of the volatile oils that give citrus its flavor reside, so it’s a valuable part of the fruit, especially when you want citrus presence without the acidity of the juice. But the term “zest” can be very confusing because there are various ways to extract zest and each yields a different-size piece. In most instances, we want finely grated zest that can easily incorporate into a recipe. Our favorite tool for this job is a rasp-style grater. When we want a larger strip of zest (like you might see in a cocktail), which can handle longer simmering, we use a vegetable peeler to cut off a swath of peel. You might think the gadget called a zester, which pushes strings of zest through narrow holes, would be preferred for its namesake task, but we actually turn to that tool the least. When zesting, try to avoid removing the bitter white pith under the peel by grating over the same area only once or twice. Use a paring knife to scrape any pith from larger strips of zest.

Chicken Piccata

Serves 4; Total Time 45 minutes

why this recipe works

Chicken piccata is one of those Italian dishes that tastes complex but is actually easy to prepare. Tender seared chicken cutlets are bathed in a rich lemon-butter pan sauce cut with the briny bite of capers. But this recipe carries lessons in flavoring the dish: Don’t muck it up with extra ingredients (as many versions do) and don’t use so little lemon and capers that you end up with boring, bland chicken. To give our piccata multidimensional flavor, we used plenty of fresh lemon juice and also simmered lemon slices in our sauce, imbuing it with fruity aroma from the zest and a subtle bitterness from the pith. A full 2 tablespoons of capers went in toward the end to retain their flavor and structural integrity. Simmering the browned cutlets briefly avoided any gumminess from residual uncooked flour; the flour simply sloughed off into the sauce, thickening it nicely. Serve with buttered noodles, rice, or crusty bread.

4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed

Kosher salt and pepper

2 large lemons

¾ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup plus 1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1 shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 cup chicken broth

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces

2 tablespoons capers, rinsed

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1. Cut each chicken breast in half crosswise, then cut each thick piece horizontally in half, creating 3 cutlets of similar thickness from each breast. Place cutlets between sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound to even ½-inch thickness. Place cutlets in bowl and toss with 2 teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Set aside for 15 minutes.

2. Halve 1 lemon lengthwise. Trim ends from 1 half, halve lengthwise again, then cut crosswise ¼-inch-thick slices; set aside. Juice remaining half and whole lemon and set aside 3 tablespoons juice.

3. Spread flour in shallow dish. Dredge 1 cutlet at a time in flour, shaking gently to remove excess, and place on wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Place 6 cutlets in skillet, reduce heat to medium, and cook until golden brown on 1 side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook until golden brown on second side, 2 to 3 minutes. Return cutlets to wire rack. Repeat with 2 tablespoons oil and remaining 6 cutlets.

4. Add remaining 1 teaspoon oil and shallot to skillet and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add broth, reserved lemon juice, and reserved lemon slices and bring to simmer, scraping up any browned bits.

5. Add cutlets to sauce and simmer for 4 minutes, flipping halfway through simmering. Transfer cutlets to platter. Sauce should be thickened to consistency of heavy cream; if not, simmer 1 minute longer. Off heat, whisk in butter. Stir in capers and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and serve.

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WHICH CUT IS A CUTLET?

A cutlet is simply a thin piece of meat, which in past decades was frequently veal, but nowadays is more often chicken. Unlike a boneless chicken breast, a cutlet has been flattened—through slicing and/or pounding—so it cooks quickly; a boon for weeknight dinners. But supermarket options can be ragged and uneven (which defeats the purpose), so we recommend preparing your own. You could pound a whole chicken breast flat but that tends to tear the sides. The classic method involves cutting a breast in half horizontally, but since breasts have a thicker and thinner end, you still have to carefully pound them. When an elongated cutlet shape doesn’t matter, a simpler method is to halve the breast crosswise, then split the thick side horizontally to create three similar-size pieces that require minimal pounding. A meat pounder is the ideal tool for that task, but the side of a rolling pin works in a pinch. The medallion-size cutlets cook like a breeze, and are ideal for a skillet chicken dinner prepared on the fly.

Rustic Braised Chicken with Mushrooms

Serves 4; Total Time 45 minutes

why this recipe works

Sometimes you want a cozy, comforting meal, but it’s a Tuesday night and you just need to get dinner on the table. This satisfying dish is the answer. It delivers deep flavor in the time it takes bone-in chicken breasts to cook through. To build a savory base, we crisped up some bacon, then browned skin-on chicken breasts in the fat to create a fond before removing the skin so it didn’t get soggy in the braise. Sautéing cremini mushrooms and aromatics in the bacon fat (with a savory lift from tomato paste) deepened their flavors. We also added a hefty amount of minced dried porcini mushrooms. This served two purposes: It added a punch of bold mushroom flavor and thickened the sauce so that it clung perfectly to the chicken even without a long simmer. Serve with potatoes, rice (see this page), or buttered noodles.

4 slices bacon, chopped coarse

4 (12-ounce) bone-in split chicken breasts, trimmed

Kosher salt and pepper

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced thin

1 onion, chopped

¼ cup tomato paste

¾ ounce dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed and minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried

1 cup water

¼ cup minced fresh parsley

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1. Cook bacon in Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate; set aside. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat from pot.

2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat fat left in pot over medium-high heat until just smoking. Brown chicken well, about 5 minutes per side; transfer to plate. Remove and discard chicken skin.

3. Add cremini mushrooms and onion to fat left in pot and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in tomato paste, porcini mushrooms, garlic, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in water, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to simmer.

4. Nestle chicken into pot along with any accumulated juices. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer gently until thermometer inserted into chicken registers 160 degrees, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer chicken to serving platter. Stir crisp bacon, parsley, and vinegar into sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over chicken and serve.

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FLAVOR BOOSTER: DRIED MUSHROOMS

Incorporating dried mushrooms into a dish is an easy way to add a concentrated dose of earthy umami. Porcini and shiitake mushrooms are both good options. As with fresh vegetables, quality can vary dramatically, so always inspect dried mushrooms closely before buying. Avoid packages filled with small, dusty pieces or pieces full of small holes (which can indicate worms) and those labeled “wild mushroom mix”—which are often older and of lesser quality. Dried mushrooms should have an earthy (not musty) aroma. Store dried mushrooms in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to one year.

Dried mushrooms should be rinsed thoroughly to remove any dirt and grit. If you aren’t cooking them in liquid (as in this recipe), you can simply mince them and add them. Otherwise, you typically want to rehydrate them before using. An easy way to do this is to microwave the mushrooms, covered, with at least twice the volume of water or broth for about 30 seconds, then let them stand for 5 minutes until they become pliable. (Alternatively, pour boiling water over them and soak for about 5 minutes.) Don’t throw out the soaking liquid; once strained, it adds even more flavor to soups, stews, and rice dishes. We use a fine-mesh strainer lined with a single paper towel or paper coffee filter.

An even more convenient way to add mushroomy flavor to a dish is to process dried porcini into a powder with a spice grinder (or mortar and pestle). This potent powder can be sprinkled anywhere you want a hit of flavor, or used as a dry rub for chicken and meat.

Chicken and Cauliflower Tikka Masala with Basmati Rice

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

With its fragrant, deeply spiced tomato sauce and tender meat, chicken tikka masala is one of the most popular takeout dishes in the world. But it’s also completely approachable for weeknight home cooking—with the right combination of ingredients and time-saving tricks. For our version, we saved time (and dishes) by poaching cubes of boneless chicken breast directly in the flavorful sauce. A combination of garlic, ginger, and garam masala brought depth of flavor to our sauce without the usual laundry list of spices. Adding cauliflower made this a heartier dinner option; we started it in the pot at the beginning of the cooking process to ensure it was tender by the time the chicken cooked through. Long-grain white, jasmine, or Texmati rice can be substituted for the basmati.

1½ cups basmati rice

2¼ cups water

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon garam masala

4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ head cauliflower (1 pound), cored and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 onion, chopped fine

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes

¼ cup heavy cream

¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves

1. Rinse rice in fine-mesh strainer until water runs clear. Bring rice, water, and ¼ teaspoon salt to simmer in large saucepan over medium heat. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed, 16 to 18 minutes. Remove pot from heat, lay clean folded dish towel underneath lid, and let sit for 10 minutes.

2. While rice cooks, combine garam masala, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in small bowl. In medium bowl, toss chicken with 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon spice mixture.

3. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add cauliflower and onion and cook until onion is softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in ginger, garlic, and remaining spice mixture and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

4. Add chicken and tomatoes to pot, bring to simmer, and cook until chicken is cooked through and cauliflower is tender, 10 to 12 minutes.

5. Off heat, stir in cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle with cilantro. Serve with rice.

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ALL ABOUT CANNED TOMATOES

Since canned tomatoes are processed at the height of freshness, they deliver more flavor than off-season fresh tomatoes. We tested a variety of canned tomato products to determine the best uses for each.

Whole Tomatoes

Whole peeled tomatoes are best when fresh tomato flavor is a must. Whole tomatoes are quite soft and break down quickly when cooked. Those packed in juice rather than puree have a livelier, fresher flavor.

Diced Tomatoes

Machine-diced tomatoes often contain calcium chloride, which helps the chunks maintain their shape. We use them in sauces and long-cooked stews and soups where distinct pieces of tomato are desired. We favor diced tomatoes packed in juice rather than in puree.

Crushed Tomatoes

Crushed tomatoes are whole tomatoes ground very finely, then enriched with tomato puree. Their thicker consistency makes them ideal when you want to make a sauce quickly, as we do here. You can make your own by crushing canned diced tomatoes in a food processor.

Tomato Puree and Tomato Sauce

These are both cooked and strained to remove the seeds. They’re much smoother and thicker than other products, but lack a fresh tomato flavor. This makes them more suited to long-cooked dishes (think braised meat sauces), where their thick, even texture is important and bright tomato flavor is not.

Lime -Ginger Chicken and Rice with Edamame and Shiitakes

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Chicken and rice for dinner; nothing more basic, right? Well, it doesn’t have to be that way. This version tastes like a cross between chicken with rice and chicken fried rice, with a bright flavor profile that’s anything but boring. We started with ginger, garlic, and lime zest, which we bloomed in the skillet to deepen their flavors. Cooking the chicken, rice, vegetables, and aromatics in a single pan infused the whole dish with tons of flavor. Be sure to use chicken breasts that are roughly the same size for even cooking. You will need a 12-inch skillet with a tight-fitting lid for this recipe. Once you add the browned chicken in step 2, the skillet will be fairly full, so you may want to use a straight-sided skillet or sauté pan if you have one. Serve with lime wedges and Sriracha.

4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped fine

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thin

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

4 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon grated lime zest plus 2 tablespoons juice

3½ cups chicken broth

1½ cups long-grain white rice

4 carrots, peeled and sliced on bias ½ inch thick

1 cup frozen shelled edamame

⅓ cup dry-roasted peanuts, chopped

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

2 scallions, sliced thin on bias

1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add chicken and cook until golden brown on 1 side, 4 to 6 minutes; transfer to plate.

2. Add remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil to now-empty skillet and heat over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, mushrooms, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until vegetables are softened and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Stir in ginger, garlic, and lime zest and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth, rice, and carrots, scraping up any browned bits. Nestle chicken, browned side up, into skillet along with any accumulated juices. Bring to simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer gently until thermometer inserted into chicken registers 160 degrees, about 10 minutes.

3. Transfer chicken to cutting board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest while finishing rice. Stir edamame into rice mixture in skillet, cover, and cook until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Off heat, stir peanuts, lime juice, soy sauce, and sesame oil into rice mixture, then season with salt and pepper to taste and gently fluff with fork. Slice chicken into ½-inch-thick slices and arrange on top of rice. Sprinkle with scallions and serve.

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MAKING THE MOST OF CHICKEN PARTS

Chicken parts are quick and easy to cook and take well to many preparations. However, it pays to know the differences among the cuts. All have their advantages.

Bone-In Parts

Perhaps the most versatile choice, bone-in breasts can be cooked by any method. The bones protect the meat from drying out during searing or roasting and help flavor soups and stews. And the skin, when prepared right, can be delightfully crisp. Just be sure to avoid overcooking, as breasts will turn tough and dry.

Bone-in thighs also take well to any cooking method. Richer and less mild than breasts, they lend great flavor when braised and leave a great fond when seared—the perfect base for a sauce. Unlike breasts, thighs are nearly impossible to overcook (see this page) and are even better when cooked to a higher temperature.

Boneless Parts

Boneless breasts are the hero of weeknight dinners for their convenience. But stick to fast preparations like stir-frying or searing, as they quickly turn from moist to dry and stringy. In the recipe here, the rice insulates the chicken, helping to prevent overcooking.

Boneless thighs do well in strongly flavored dishes and dishes with longer cooking times so the meat breaks down into tender pieces. This is a good cut to use whenever you’ll be shredding the chicken (think tacos, chili, or pulled chicken) as there are no skin and bones to work around.

Drumsticks

Because of their shape, drumsticks don’t sear well, but otherwise can be treated similar to bone-in thighs. Braised or stewed, they can become tender and silky. Roasted, the skin can turn out shatteringly crisp.

One-Pan Lemon-Braised Chicken Thighs with Chickpeas and Fennel

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour 10 minutes

why this recipe works

People think of braises as all-day affairs, but with bone-in chicken thighs, a hearty braise can be a relatively quick meal. When braising chicken, we often remove the skin as it can turn flabby, but there is a way to maintain crispiness. We first browned bone-in thighs and removed them to build a hefty sauce of chickpeas (mashing some to thicken the sauce), fennel, and olives. We then nestled the chicken back in the pan: Elevated just enough, the chicken’s skin remained crispy even as the meat braised away in the liquid below. “Overcooking” the chicken to a temperature of 185 degrees rendered fat and melted the tough connective tissues for a rich dish with ultratender meat. We prefer briny green olives such as Manzanilla, Picholine, or Cerignola in this recipe; look for them at your grocery store’s salad bar or in the pickle aisle.

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed

6 (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large fennel bulb, stalks discarded, bulb halved and cut into ½-inch-thick wedges through core

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest plus 1½ tablespoons juice

1 teaspoon ground coriander

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ cup dry white wine

1 cup pitted large brine-cured green olives, halved

¾ cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon honey

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Place ½ cup chickpeas in bowl and mash to coarse puree with potato masher; set aside. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper.

2. Heat oil in ovensafe 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook chicken, skin side down, until skin is crisped and well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer chicken to plate, skin side up.

3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat from skillet. Heat fat left in skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add fennel, cut side down; sprinkle with ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook, covered, until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Add garlic, lemon zest, coriander, and pepper flakes and cook, uncovered, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until almost evaporated, about 2 minutes.

4. Stir in olives, broth, lemon juice, honey, mashed chickpeas, and remaining whole chickpeas and bring to simmer. Nestle chicken into liquid, keeping skin above surface. Transfer skillet to oven and bake, uncovered, until fennel is tender and thermometer inserted into chicken registers 185 degrees, 35 to 40 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.

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OVERCOOK YOUR CHICKEN THIGHS: JUST TRUST US

Unlike white chicken meat, which dries out and toughens when overcooked, dark meat benefits from being cooked beyond the temperature at which it’s technically done (175 degrees). That’s because dark meat contains twice as much collagen as white meat. The longer the meat cooks, the more that collagen breaks down into gelatin, which coats the muscle fibers and makes the meat juicy and tender. (Dark meat also contains roughly twice as much fat, which coats the meat’s proteins, and has a higher pH, which helps it retain moisture more effectively.) But it’s important to cook thighs low and slow: The more time the meat spends between 140 degrees (the temperature at which collagen begins to break down) and its final temperature, the more collagen will be converted into gelatin and the more tender and juicy the meat will be. We proved the point by cooking two batches of chicken thighs to the high temperature of 195 degrees, one on the stovetop and one in a 300-degree oven. Whereas the stovetop-cooked thighs reached 195 degrees in about 25 minutes and were moderately tender, the oven-cooked thighs lingered for nearly twice as long and were much more tender and pleasant to eat. The final oven-braising step does the same for the chicken thighs in this one-pan dinner.

Italian Sausage with White Beans and Kale

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

This dish of sausage, beans, and greens is the ideal back-pocket dinner. Few combinations are as delicious, as hearty, or as simple. We browned sausages in a Dutch oven and then removed them and sautéed chopped onion and garlic in the rendered fat. Next, we added diced tomatoes and chopped kale to simmer until tender. Finally, we added back the sausage along with drained canned cannellini beans and simmered them just to cook the sausage through and allow the beans to absorb some of the sauce. Since the resulting sauce was a bit thin, we decided to puree a portion of the tomatoes and white beans with some chicken broth for additional flavor and stir this into the pot along with the tomatoes and kale. Serve with crusty bread.

2 (15-ounce) cans cannellini beans, rinsed

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained with juice reserved

1 cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound sweet or hot Italian sausage, pricked all over with fork

1 onion, chopped fine

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound kale, stemmed and chopped

Salt and pepper

1. Puree ½ cup beans, ½ cup tomatoes, reserved tomato juice, and chicken broth in food processor until smooth, about 30 seconds.

2. Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add sausages and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes; transfer to plate.

3. Add onion to fat left in pot and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in bean puree mixture, remaining drained tomatoes, kale, and ¼ teaspoon salt, scraping up any browned bits. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until kale is wilted and tender, about 15 minutes.

4. Stir in remaining whole beans, then nestle browned sausages and any accumulated juices into pot. Cover and simmer until thermometer inserted into sausages registers 160 degrees and sauce is thickened slightly, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

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SAUSAGE PRIMER

Sausages can be made from almost any type of meat (or combination of meats), although in the test kitchen we tend to favor highly seasoned pork sausages. They can add meaty, spicy depth to soups, stews, stuffings, casseroles, and pasta, or even take center stage for a simple dinner as in the recipe here. These are the four types we use most.

Andouille

Born in France, this very spicy smoked and cured sausage emigrated to Louisiana, finding wide acceptance in its new home. You can’t make a gumbo (see this page) or jambalaya without andouille. It is seasoned with garlic, dried hot pepper, and herbs. It doesn’t need to be cooked (although cooking augments its flavor).

Chorizo

The most common chorizo in American markets is sold fully cooked and is seasoned with garlic and chili powder. We use it to lend kick to casseroles, potatoes, eggs, and any dishes with Latin origins. Less common in this country are Spanish- and Mexican-style chorizos. The former is a hard, smoky cured sausage with the texture of pepperoni; it is often served as an appetizer with cheese. The latter is made from fresh pork seasoned with garlic, paprika, and chili powder and must be cooked.

Italian

Italian sausages are either hot or sweet. Both are made with coarsely ground fresh (not cured or smoked) pork flavored with garlic and fennel seeds. The hot variety is also seasoned with red pepper flakes. Both need to be cooked. Grill or sauté whole sausages or remove the casing and crumble the meat into pastas or stews.

Kielbasa

This smoked sausage hails from Poland. Although its main seasoning is garlic, it’s neither hot nor assertive. Kielbasa is sold fully cooked, but a good sear improves both flavor and texture. Some brands are much saltier than others, so always taste for seasoning when you cook with kielbasa.

Restaurant-Style Beef Stir-Fry

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

We covered our simple stir-fry rules earlier (on this page). This slightly more complex recipe is designed to re-create restaurant-style beef stir-fry, characterized by its velvety, tender beef. We adapted a Chinese restaurant technique called velveting, which uses a marinade of egg whites, cornstarch, water, and salt to tenderize the meat and give it a plush, silky coating. To simplify the multistep process, we applied an easier tenderizing trick by soaking sliced flank steak in a baking soda solution, then added it to a soy sauce–cornstarch marinade for perfectly tender beef. The Cantonese dish, black pepper beef (hei hu jiao niu liu), inspired the vegetables and salty-sweet-spicy pepper sauce that completed the stir-fry. Prepare the vegetables and aromatics while the beef is marinating. Serve with rice (see this page).

1 tablespoon plus ¼ cup water

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 pound flank steak, trimmed, cut lengthwise into 2- to 2½-inch strips, then cut crosswise against grain into ¼-inch-thick slices

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2½ teaspoons packed light brown sugar

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 teaspoons rice vinegar

1½ teaspoons toasted sesame oil

2 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper

3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon vegetable oil

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch strips

1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch strips

6 scallions, white parts sliced thin on bias, green parts cut into 2-inch pieces

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger

1. Combine 1 tablespoon water and baking soda in medium bowl. Add beef and toss to coat. Let sit at room temperature for 5 minutes.

2. Whisk 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon rice wine, 1½ teaspoons cornstarch, and ½ teaspoon sugar together in small bowl. Add mixture to beef, stir to coat, and let sit at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes.

3. Whisk remaining ¼ cup water, 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons rice wine, 1½ teaspoons cornstarch, 2 teaspoons sugar, oyster sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, and pepper in second bowl and set sauce aside.

4. Heat 2 teaspoons vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until just smoking. Add half of beef in single layer. Cook without stirring for 1 minute. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until spotty brown on both sides, about 1 minute longer. Transfer to bowl. Repeat with 2 teaspoons vegetable oil and remaining beef.

5. Return skillet to high heat, add 2 teaspoons vegetable oil, and heat until just smoking. Add bell peppers and scallion greens and cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are spotty brown and crisp-tender, about 4 minutes. Transfer vegetables to bowl with beef.

6. Return now-empty skillet to medium-high heat and add remaining 4 teaspoons vegetable oil, scallion whites, garlic, and ginger. Cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Return beef and vegetables to skillet and stir to combine. Whisk sauce to recombine. Add to skillet and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce has thickened, about 30 seconds. Serve immediately.

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GOING AGAINST THE GRAIN

To get small, tender pieces of beef in this stir-fry, you first cut flank steak along the grain of the meat into long strips, and then slice these against the grain into pieces. If that sounds confusing, let’s start with the fact that meat has a grain. The grain is determined by the direction in which the muscle fibers run. The grain of flank steak is pretty easy to see; all the fibers run parallel to one another. Those wide muscle fibers are also what makes flank steak chewier than some other cuts.

Cutting the meat perpendicular to its muscle striations, or against the grain, breaks them up, making the meat more tender. This applies to both cooked meat that you’re slicing to serve and raw meat that you’re cutting before cooking, as in this stir-fry. We’ve actually tested flank steak cut both with and against the grain using a texture analyzer, which tests how much force is needed to “bite” into the slices. We found that steak cut with the grain required four times more force to “chew” it to the same degree, so proper slicing can make a huge difference in the meat’s tenderness. If you’re ever unable to tell the direction of the grain in meat, make a test slice. If you see that you’ve cut parallel to the grain, turn the meat 90 degrees before cutting again.

Easy Steak Frites

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Steak frites (aka steak with French fries) is an absolute classic and a French bistro staple. To bring this restaurant regular home without the benefit of a commercial deep-fryer or a sous chef, we streamlined the usual frying process. An unusual frying technique—starting the potatoes in cold oil—resulted in crispy exteriors and creamy interiors for our fries without the usual fuss of monitoring the oil temperature and frying the potatoes twice, as is traditionally done. For the steaks, thick-cut boneless strip steaks gave us time to get a nice crust on the exteriors. A quick compound butter dolloped on top of the steaks while they rested made the world’s simplest sauce. For the best French fries, we recommend using large Yukon Gold potatoes (10 to 12 ounces each) that are similar in size. We prefer peanut oil for frying for its high smoke point and clean taste, but you can use vegetable oil, if desired. Use a Dutch oven that holds 6 quarts or more for this recipe.

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 shallot, minced

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

1 garlic clove, minced

Kosher salt and pepper

2½ pounds large Yukon Gold potatoes, unpeeled

6 cups plus 1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil

2 (1-pound) boneless strip steaks, 1¼ to 1½ inches thick, trimmed and halved crosswise

1. Mash butter, shallot, parsley, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper together in bowl; set compound butter aside.

2. Square off potatoes by cutting ¼-inch-thick slice from each of their 4 long sides; discard slices. Cut potatoes lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick planks. Stack 3 or 4 planks and cut into ¼-inch-thick fries. Repeat with remaining potatoes. (Do not place sliced potatoes in water.)

3. Line rimmed baking sheet with triple layer of paper towels. Combine potatoes and 6 cups oil in Dutch oven. Cook over high heat until oil is vigorously bubbling, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, without stirring, until potatoes are limp but exteriors are beginning to firm, about 15 minutes. Using tongs, stir potatoes, gently scraping up any that stick, and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until golden and crispy, 7 to 10 minutes longer.

4. Meanwhile, pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add steaks and cook, turning once, until well browned and thermometer inserted into center registers 120 to 125 degrees (for medium-rare), 4 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer steaks to platter, top each with compound butter, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes.

5. Using spider skimmer or slotted spoon, transfer fries to prepared sheet and season with salt. Serve fries with steaks.

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BUTTER IT UP

Compound butters—butters mixed with fresh herbs or other potent ingredients—are an easy way to add flavor to meat, fish, and vegetables, as well as baked goods like biscuits and muffins. They can be savory, as in the herb and garlic butter we put on our Easy Steak Frites, or sweet. Here are a few combinations we like—simply combine these ingredients with 4 tablespoons of softened unsalted butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. The compound butter can then either be shaped into a log and rechilled, or simply used as is.

Rosemary -Parmesan Butter

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan + 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary + 1 minced garlic clove + 1 pinch red pepper flakes

Tarragon -Lime Butter

1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon + 2 teaspoons lime juice + 2 tablespoons minced scallions

Sweet Orange Butter

½ teaspoon grated orange zest + 1 teaspoon sugar + dash vanilla extract (season with salt only; omit pepper)

Honey Butter

2 tablespoons honey (season with salt only; omit pepper)

Crunchy Pork Chops with Winter Squash and Cranberry Sauce

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

One-pan meals are a weeknight cook’s best friend. Here, a wire rack in a sheet pan is the setting for a full menu of fall flavors (with a little help from the microwave). We used a combination of panko bread crumbs—toasted in the microwave—and grated Parmesan to give our pork chops a supercrunchy crust. Elevating the chops on a wire rack ensured they stayed crunchy as they cooked. For a complementary side dish, we sliced acorn squash into rings and then softened them in the microwave before adding them to the sheet pan with the pork, so they would finish cooking at the same time as the meat. A sweet-tart cranberry sauce rounded out our menu. The microwave helped a third time here; it easily cooked the cranberries, producing the perfect sauce for our hearty roasted dinner.

¼ cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 cups panko bread crumbs

2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)

¼ cup minced fresh parsley

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless pork chops, ¾ to 1 inch thick, trimmed

1 large acorn squash (2 pounds), sliced into ½-inch-thick rings and seeded

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

12 ounces (3 cups) fresh or thawed frozen cranberries

¼ cup water

¼ teaspoon five-spice powder

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray wire rack with vegetable oil spray, then set in rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Spread flour in shallow dish. Whisk eggs and mustard together in second shallow dish. Toast panko in bowl in microwave, stirring often, until deep golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes; let cool briefly. Toss toasted panko, Parmesan, parsley, and 2 tablespoons oil together in third shallow dish and season with salt and pepper.

2. Pat pork dry with paper towels and cut 2 slits, about 2 inches apart, through fat on edges of each chop. Season with salt and pepper. Working with 1 chop at a time, dredge in flour, dip in egg mixture, then coat with toasted panko mixture, pressing gently to adhere. Lay breaded chops on 1 side of prepared wire rack, spaced at least ¼ inch apart.

3. Place squash on large plate, brush with remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and season with salt and pepper. Microwave squash until it begins to soften but still holds its shape, 8 to 10 minutes.

4. Place squash on prepared wire rack opposite pork, slightly overlapping if needed, and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar. Bake pork chops and squash until thermometer inserted in center of chops registers 145 degrees and squash is slightly tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove sheet from oven and let rest for 5 minutes.

5. While chops bake, combine remaining 1 cup sugar, cranberries, water, five-spice powder, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl and microwave, stirring occasionally, until cranberries are broken down and juicy, about 10 minutes. Coarsely mash cranberries with fork and serve with pork chops and squash.

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SHEET PAN + WIRE RACK = DINNER MAGIC

One of the busiest pans in the test kitchen is the rimmed baking sheet (aka the sheet pan). The pan has many uses beyond baking, but our favorite is this: If you stick a wire grid-style cooling rack inside one, you have a nifty way to elevate food for better air circulation and to catch drips, and this becomes your go-to setup for roasting and broiling meat and holding foods after frying. Cooked this way, our breaded pork chops crisp evenly above and below; we also use the setup to roast beef (see this page) and chicken parts (see this page), among other things. To do this properly, you need a pan that won’t warp under high heat and will accommodate a wire rack; one with straight, smooth sides best contains pan juices. An 18 by 13-inch pan does the job. Our winner is Nordic Ware Baker’s Half Sheet. Our winning wire rack, which can withstand a hot broiler, cleans up without warping, and fits snugly in a standard rimming baking sheet, is Libertyware Half Size Sheet Pan Cooling Rack. See this page for more information.

Maple -Glazed Pork Chops

Serves 4; Total Time 25 minutes

why this recipe works

Throwing a few boneless pork chops into a skillet sounds like a promising route to a weeknight meal. But the lean chops quickly dry out. A simple solution that also adds flavor is to give them a glaze. We started by cutting slits in the pork’s fat and silverskin to prevent the chops from contracting and curling up in the hot pan. We seared the chops on just one side to impart browning without overcooking and then flipped them, added our glaze, and lowered the heat to cook them gently. A glaze of maple syrup, mustard, and cider vinegar walked the line between sweet and savory. When the chops finished, we removed them to rest and reduced the glaze until thick and glossy, but not overly syrupy, adding in the juices from the rested meat. Be careful not to overreduce the glaze in step 4. If the glaze thickens to the correct consistency before the chops reach 145 degrees, add a few tablespoons of water to the pan. Serve with Pan-Roasted Potatoes.

GLAZE

½ cup maple syrup

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

¼ cup cider vinegar

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

CHOPS

4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless pork chops, ¾ to 1 inch thick, trimmed

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. FOR THE GLAZE Combine all ingredients in bowl.

2. FOR THE CHOPS Cut 2 slits, about 2 inches apart, through fat on edges of each pork chop. Pat chops dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add chops and cook until well browned on first side, about 5 minutes.

3. Turn chops and add glaze to pan. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until thermometer inserted into center of chops registers 145 degrees, 5 to 8 minutes.

4. Transfer chops to plate and tent with aluminum foil. Increase heat to medium and continue to simmer glaze until thick and glossy, 2 to 6 minutes, adding any accumulated pork juices to pan. Pour glaze over chops and serve.

variations

Orange -Chipotle-Glazed Pork Chops

Substitute following mixture for maple glaze: ⅔ cup orange juice (2 oranges), 1 teaspoon lime juice, 1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, and 1½ tablespoons sugar. Simmer glaze as directed, adding ½ teaspoon grated lime zest to glaze with accumulated pork juices.

Pineapple -Soy-Glazed Pork Chops

Substitute following mixture for maple glaze: ⅔ cup pineapple juice, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, ¼ cup rice vinegar, 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, and 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar. Simmer glaze as directed, adding ½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil with accumulated pork juices.

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GLAZING OVER

Unlike rubs and marinades, which are added before cooking, and unlike sauces, which are typically added after cooking, a glaze is applied during cooking, usually towards the end, so that it has time to build flavor and even caramelize in the pan but not enough time to burn (since most glazes are high in sugar, they tend to burn easily). Applying the glaze toward the end of cooking also gives the meat time to develop a sear or for the skin to crisp up if you’re cooking poultry. In this pork chop recipe, we use a two-step approach, first simmering the chops in a maple syrup mixture that then gets reduced down to a glaze, which is poured over the meat for a double dose of flavor. In longer-cooked recipes where the glaze isn’t the cooking medium, such as when we are grilling or baking, we sometimes brush on layers of glaze in stages, letting each coat dry so the next has something to cling to. This builds additional flavor without the danger of the outermost layer getting overcooked.

Thai-Style Pork Burgers with Sesame Green Beans

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

Meaty burgers don’t always have to be about the beef. Ground pork is just as convenient and quick, and it lends itself to a different profile of flavors. However, burgers made from ground pork are notoriously dry and crumbly, so we added a panade (a mixture of bread and milk) to keep the patties moist and cohesive. The panade also provided an opportunity to pack in the flavor; we added cilantro, lime zest, Sriracha, and a single teaspoon of salty, potent fish sauce to the bread and milk to give the mild pork a Thai-style flavor boost. A simple green bean salad with complementary flavors paired perfectly with the burgers. Shocking the cooked beans in ice water—a classic technique used when blanching vegetables—halted their cooking abruptly, ensuring they maintained their vibrant color and crisp bite.

1 pound green beans, trimmed

Salt and pepper

¼ cup mayonnaise

4 teaspoons Sriracha sauce

1½ teaspoons grated lime zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

3 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon fish sauce

3 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro plus ½ cup leaves

1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces

1½ pounds ground pork

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 hamburger buns

1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large saucepan. Fill large bowl halfway with ice and water. Add green beans and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, about 6 minutes. Drain green beans and place in ice bath to cool. Drain again, transfer to salad spinner, and spin dry.

2. Meanwhile, whisk mayonnaise, 2 teaspoons Sriracha, and ½ teaspoon lime zest together in small bowl. Season with salt to taste; set aside. Transfer drained beans to serving bowl and toss with lime juice, sesame oil, and sesame seeds. Season with salt and pepper to taste; set aside.

3. Combine remaining 2 teaspoons Sriracha, remaining 1 teaspoon lime zest, milk, fish sauce, minced cilantro, bread, and 1 teaspoon pepper in large bowl. Mash to paste with fork. Using your hands, add pork and mix until well combined.

4. Divide pork mixture into 4 equal balls, then flatten each into ¾-inch-thick patties, about 4 inches wide.

5. Heat vegetable oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add patties and cook until well browned on first side, 6 to 8 minutes. Flip burgers and continue to cook until second side is well browned and thermometer inserted into center of burger from top edge registers 150 degrees, 7 to 9 minutes, flipping as needed to ensure even browning. Transfer burgers to wire rack set in rimmed baking sheet and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.

6. To serve, spread Sriracha mayo onto bun bottoms. Top with burgers, cilantro leaves, and bun tops. Serve with green beans.

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AN ICE COLD BATH

Though it’s often overlooked for the sake of convience, giving vegetables a dunk in boiling salted water before plunging them into ice water (aka blanching and shocking) is a trick with many uses. A veggie platter is more pleasant when tougher items like broccoli, green beans, and asparagus have been brought to a gentle crunch, and the salt water enhances their flavor. Tomatoes and peaches can be easily peeled after a 30- to 60-second blanch before shocking (skip the salt; score an X into the base of each with a paring knife before blanching).

The method is also ideal when you want a side dish that you don’t have to fuss with at the last minute. When a vegetable is cooked until crisp-tender, it can be simply dressed and served as a salad at room temperature, as it is here. Vegetables can also be blanched (and even refrigerated) in advance, then warmed through in a little butter or olive oil in just a few minutes. Add salt and pepper, maybe a chopped herb, and you’re done.

Lemon-Herb Cod Fillets with Crispy Garlic Potatoes

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour 15 minutes

why this recipe works

This simple but elegant recipe streamlines the classic pairing of cod and roasted potatoes into one dish while bringing some needed character to the rather mild fish and starchy root vegetable. After tossing potato slices with butter, garlic, and thyme for plenty of flavor, we assembled them into four individual beds and roasted them until just tender and slightly browned. Placing the cod fillets on top (along with more butter, thyme, and fresh lemon slices) not only insulated the fish from the direct heat of the pan, helping to keep it moist, but also permitted the cod’s juices to baste the potatoes as it cooked, tying together the whole dish. Serving it was as easy as transferring each portion to a plate. Halibut and haddock are good substitutes for the cod.

1½ pounds russet potatoes, unpeeled, sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus 3 tablespoons cut into ¼-inch pieces

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme, plus 4 sprigs

Salt and pepper

4 (6- to 8-ounce) skinless cod fillets, 1 to 1½ inches thick

1 lemon, thinly sliced

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss potatoes with melted butter, garlic, minced thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Shingle potatoes into four 6 by 4-inch rectangular piles on rimmed baking sheet.

2. Roast potatoes until spotty brown and just tender, 30 to 35 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through roasting.

3. Pat cod dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Lay 1 cod fillet, skinned side down, on top of each potato pile and top with butter pieces, thyme sprigs, and lemon slices. Bake until cod flakes apart when gently prodded with paring knife and thermometer inserted into flesh registers 140 degrees, about 15 minutes.

4. Remove sheet from oven. Slide spatula underneath potatoes and cod and gently transfer to individual plates. Serve.

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BUYING AND STORING FISH

With so many varieties available and freshness of paramount importance, the fish counter can be intimidating. But that’s not a reason to avoid fish! Follow these tips.

What to Look For

Always buy fish from a trusted source (preferably one with high volume to help ensure freshness). The store, and the fish in it, should smell like the sea, not fishy or sour. And all the fish should be on ice or properly refrigerated. Fillets and steaks should look bright, shiny, and firm, not dull or mushy. Whole fish should have moist, taut skin, clear eyes, and bright red gills.

What to Ask For

It is always better to have your fishmonger slice steaks and fillets to order rather than buying precut pieces that may have been sitting around. Don’t be afraid to be picky at the seafood counter; a ragged piece of cod or a tail end of salmon will be difficult to cook properly. It is important to keep your fish cold, so if you have a long ride home, ask for a bag of ice.

How to Store It

Because fish is so perishable, it’s best to buy it the day it will be cooked. If that’s not possible, it’s important to store it properly. When you get home, unwrap the fish, pat it dry, put it in a zipper-lock bag, press out the air, and seal the bag. Then set the fish on a bed of ice in a bowl or other container (that can hold the water once the ice melts), and place it in the back of the fridge, where it is coldest. If the ice melts before you use the fish, replenish it. The fish should keep for one day.

Salmon Cakes with Asparagus and Lemon-Herb Sauce

Serves 4; Total Time 45 minutes

why this recipe works

Salmon cakes are a fresh and simple way to have fish for dinner. The most important rule is to avoid too many flavor-muting binders or you’ll end up with bread patties instead of clean fish flavor. We used a food processor to coarsely chop the salmon so our cakes had a meaty texture. A single slice of bread and 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise provided enough binding. Broiling the patties made them easy to flip and kept them from overcooking. We arranged them on one end of a baking sheet, leaving plenty of room for a broiler-friendly vegetable—asparagus—to cook simultaneously. A quick lemon and parsley sauce rounded out the meal. Don’t overprocess the salmon in step 2, or the cakes will have a pasty texture. Lay the salmon cakes on one side of the baking sheet so that the asparagus has space for browning.

LEMON-HERB SAUCE

¼ cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 scallion, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley

Salt and pepper

SALMON CAKES AND ASPARAGUS

1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces

1 pound skinless salmon, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons capers, rinsed and minced

1 shallot, minced

Salt and pepper

1 pound asparagus, trimmed

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1. FOR THE SAUCE Combine all ingredients in bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until serving.

2. FOR THE SALMON CAKES AND ASPARAGUS Adjust oven rack 3 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Pulse bread in food processor to coarse crumbs, about 8 pulses, then transfer to large bowl; you should have about ¾ cup crumbs. Working in 2 batches, pulse salmon in food processor until coarsely ground, about 4 pulses; transfer to bowl with bread crumbs and toss to combine.

3. Whisk mayonnaise, parsley, mustard, capers, shallot, ½ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in small bowl, then gently fold into salmon mixture until well combined. Divide salmon mixture into 4 equal portions and gently pack into 1-inch-thick patties.

4. Place salmon cakes on 1 side of rimmed baking sheet. Toss asparagus with oil, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and spread in single layer on empty side of sheet. Broil until cakes are lightly browned on both sides, barely translucent at center, and thermometer inserted into center from top edge registers 125 degrees (for medium-rare) and asparagus is lightly browned and tender, 8 to 12 minutes. Halfway through broiling, flip cakes and turn asparagus.

5. Remove sheet from oven, transfer salmon and asparagus to platter, and let rest for 5 minutes. Serve with lemon-herb sauce.

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PANADE TO THE RESCUE

A panade is a mixture of a starch and liquid. It can be simple, such as bread mixed with milk, or it can be complex, incorporating panko or saltines plus buttermilk or yogurt or even gelatin. But a panade always has the same goals: to help a ground protein dish hold its shape and to keep it moist and tender. Panades are frequently used in meatballs, meatloaf, and burgers. But how exactly does mashed up bread and milk help? Here’s what’s happening: Starches from the bread or crackers absorb moisture from the milk or other liquid to form a gel that coats and lubricates the protein molecules in the meat, much in the same way as fat does, keeping them moist and preventing them from linking together and shrinking into a tough matrix. This keeps the food from becoming dense and dried out. We’re always careful to keep the panade-to-meat ratio just right in our recipes to make sure the flavor of the dish doesn’t get washed out by the addition of the panade.

Oven-Steamed Mussels

Serves 2 to 4; Total Time 40 minutes

why this recipe works

Don’t be intimidated by mussels. These tender bivalves are inexpensive and quick to prepare. And they create their own briny-sweet broth when steamed in a pan of liquid—the flavor of which can be easily varied with just a few tweaks to the additions. However, mussels come in all different sizes, so they cook at different rates, especially when piled up in a pot. To help them cook evenly, we took the unconventional approach of cooking the mussels in a wide roasting pan in the oven so the heat surrounded the mussels on all sides, leading to more even (and gentle) cooking than was possible on the stove. With wine, thyme, and bay leaves as a base, the mussels’ liquid made a tasty broth. Discard any mussel with an unpleasant odor or with a cracked shell or a shell that won’t close. Serve with crusty bread.

4 pounds mussels, scrubbed

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

Pinch red pepper flakes

1 cup dry white wine

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

¼ teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Debeard mussels, if necessary: Holding 1 mussel at a time in your hand, remove weedy piece protruding from between shells, tugging and using flat surface of paring knife as leverage (see this page).

2. Heat oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in large roasting pan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in wine, thyme sprigs, and bay leaves and boil until wine is slightly reduced, about 1 minute.

3. Stir in mussels and salt. Cover pan tightly with aluminum foil and transfer to oven. Cook until most mussels have opened (a few may remain closed), 15 to 18 minutes.

4. Remove pan from oven. Push mussels to sides of pan. Add butter to center and whisk until melted. Discard thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Stir in parsley and serve.

variations

Oven-Steamed Mussels with Hard Cider and Bacon

Substitute 4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces, for garlic and pepper flakes; cook until bacon has rendered and is starting to crisp, about 5 minutes. Substitute dry hard cider for wine and ¼ cup heavy cream for butter.

Oven-Steamed Mussels with Tomatoes and Chorizo

Omit red pepper flakes and increase oil to 3 tablespoons. Heat oil and 12 ounces Spanish-style chorizo sausage, cut into ½-inch pieces, in roasting pan until chorizo starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Proceed with recipe as directed, adding 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes to roasting pan before adding mussels and increasing butter to 3 tablespoons.

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SIX GOOD THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT MUSSELS

1. They’re Safe to Eat

Mussels are routinely tested by state and local agencies for the presence of algae-derived toxins. The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program calls them a “Best Choice” for environmental sustainability.

2. They Need Almost No Cleaning

Most mussels are cultivated on long ropes suspended from rafts, which leaves them free of sand and grit—and for the most part, beards. In general, all they need is a quick scrub under the tap.

3. It’s Easy to Tell When They’re Fresh

A live mussel will smell pleasantly briny. If open, its shell should close up when lightly tapped (but give it a moment; some mussels take longer than others to clam up).

4. It’s Equally Easy to Tell When They’re Not

A dead mussel deteriorates rapidly and will smell almost immediately. Also discard any mussel with a cracked or broken shell or a shell that won’t close.

5. You Can Store Mussels for up to Three Days

As soon as you bring them home, place them in a bowl, cover it with a wet paper towel, and store it in the fridge.

6. Unopened Cooked Mussels Needn’t Be Discarded

A mussel that’s closed after cooking isn’t unfit to eat. It’s a sign that the mussel needs more cooking. To open a reluctant mussel, microwave it briefly (30 seconds or so).

Tequila-Lime Shrimp Quesadillas

Serves 4; Total Time 1 hour

why this recipe works

We love a simple cheese quesadilla, but add a filling of succulent shrimp spiked with tequila and lime zest and you turn Mexico’s griddled cheese sandwich into a party. To make them substantial enough for a meal, we started with 10-inch flour tortillas. To make four at once, we turned to the oven. By placing the quesadillas on an oiled baking sheet and then brushing their tops with oil, we were able to brown and crisp them on both sides without having to cook each individually. To keep the quesadillas from getting soggy while ensuring juicy shrimp, we parcooked the shrimp slightly on the stovetop with aromatics and tequila; this gave them a head start while evaporating most of the liquid. It was essential to cut the shrimp in half so that they released most of their moisture into the pan. Cilantro, scallion greens, and lime zest provided welcome freshness, and Monterey Jack cheese offered melty richness.

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

12 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (3 cups)

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

2 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin

1½ pounds medium-large shrimp (31 to 40 per pound), peeled, deveined (see this page), tails removed, and halved lengthwise

Salt and pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce

⅓ cup tequila

1 teaspoon grated lime zest

4 (10-inch) flour tortillas

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and brush with 1 tablespoon oil. Toss Monterey Jack with cilantro and scallion greens.

2. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add scallion whites, garlic, chipotle, and ¼ teaspoon salt and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add tequila and simmer until tequila has evaporated and pan is dry, about 5 minutes.

3. Add shrimp and cook, stirring often, until cooked through and opaque throughout, about 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl, stir in zest, and let cool for 5 minutes; drain well.

4. Lay tortillas on counter. Sprinkle half of cheese mixture over half of each tortilla, leaving ½-inch border around edge. Arrange shrimp on top in single layer, then sprinkle with remaining cheese mixture. Fold other half of each tortilla over top and press firmly to compact.

5. Arrange quesadillas in single layer on prepared sheet with rounded edges facing center of sheet. Brush with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Bake until quesadillas begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Flip quesadillas over and press gently with spatula to compact. Continue to bake until crisp and golden brown on second side, about 5 minutes. Let quesadillas cool on wire rack for 5 minutes, then slice each into 4 wedges and serve.

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DIY TORTILLA CHIPS

Tortillas may be the ideal wrapper for all manner of handheld meals. But when they’re sliced into wedges and fried, tortillas (typically corn) become the ideal munchable snack. If you’ve ever had a basket of fresh-made tortilla chips at a restaurant, you know that even the best store-bought chips can’t compare with the fresh corn flavor and ultracrispy texture of homemade. Whether you choose to buy corn tortillas or make them yourself (see this page), frying your own tortilla chips is a great way to level up your Mexican cuisine game. A frying temperature of 350 degrees browns the chips quickly without burning them, and frying in two batches ensures that the oil’s temperature doesn’t drop too much when adding the tortilla wedges. As soon as they come out of the oil, sprinkle them with kosher salt, which is easier to distribute evenly than table salt. We prefer peanut oil for deep frying because of its high smoke point, but vegetable or corn oil will also work. Cooled chips can be stored in a zipper-lock bag at room temperature for up to 4 days. (For more about deep frying, see “Fearless Frying”.)

Homemade Tortilla Chips

Serves 4

Cut eight 6-inch corn tortillas into 6 wedges each. Line 2 baking sheets with several layers of paper towels. Heat 5 cups peanut oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat to 350 degrees. Add half of tortilla wedges and fry until golden and crispy around edges, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer chips to prepared sheets, sprinkle lightly with salt, and let cool. Repeat with remaining tortillas. Serve.

Skillet Pizza

Makes two 11-inch pizzas; Serves 4; Total Time 2¾ hours (1¼ hours with premade dough)

why this recipe works

Making pizza can be a big project requiring a baking stone, or it can be as approachable as this version, which is especially convenient if you make the dough ahead (see “Freezing Pizza Dough”). Baking the pizza in a skillet eliminated the nerve-racking step of sliding a topped pie onto a baking stone in the oven. Yet, when preheated on the stovetop and transferred to a 500-degree oven, the skillet functioned like a pizza stone, crisping the crust in minutes. The dough came together easily in the food processor. If you’d like more substantial toppings, sprinkle them on before baking; but keep the additions light enough for the thin crust. The sauce will yield more than is needed; extra sauce can be refrigerated for up to one week or frozen for up to one month. If you don’t have time to make dough, you can also use 1 pound of store-bought pizza dough. For more on how to knead, see this page.

DOUGH

2 cups (11 ounces) plus 2 tablespoons bread flour

1⅛ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast

¾ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

¾ cup ice water

SAUCE AND TOPPINGS

1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained with juice reserved

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon pepper

8 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced ¼ inch thick and patted dry with paper towels

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

1. FOR THE DOUGH Pulse flour, yeast, and salt in food processor until combined, about 5 pulses. With processor running, add oil, then ice water, and process until rough ball forms, 30 to 40 seconds. Let dough rest for 2 minutes, then process for 30 seconds longer.

2. Sprinkle counter lightly with flour, then transfer dough to counter. Knead by hand to form smooth ball, 30 seconds. Place dough seam side down in lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let rise until doubled in size, 1½ to 2 hours. (Unrisen dough can be refrigerated for at least 8 hours or up to 16 hours; let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before shaping in step 5.)

3. FOR THE SAUCE AND TOPPINGS Clean and dry food processor. Process tomatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, vinegar, oregano, salt, and pepper until smooth, about 30 seconds. Transfer mixture to 2-cup liquid measuring cup and add reserved tomato juice until sauce measures 2 cups. Reserve 1 cup sauce; set aside remaining sauce for another use.

4. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position. Heat oven to 500 degrees.

5. Place dough on lightly floured counter; divide in half. Cover 1 piece loosely with greased plastic. Using your fingertips, gently press other piece into 8-inch disk, then use rolling pin to roll into 11-inch round.

6. Grease 12-inch ovensafe skillet with 2 tablespoons oil. Transfer dough to skillet and reshape as needed. Spread ½ cup sauce over dough, leaving ½-inch border around edge. Top with half of mozzarella.

7. Set skillet over high heat and cook until outside edge of dough is set, pizza is lightly puffed, and bottom of crust looks spotty brown when gently lifted with spatula, about 3 minutes.

8. Transfer skillet to oven and bake pizza until edges are brown and cheese is melted and spotty brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Using potholders, remove skillet from oven and slide pizza onto wire rack; let cool slightly. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon basil, cut into wedges, and serve. Being careful of hot skillet, repeat with remaining oil, dough, ½ cup sauce, remaining mozzarella, and basil.

think like a cook

FREEZING PIZZA DOUGH

To make from-scratch pizza more convenient for weeknight dinners, keep a stash of homemade pizza dough in your freezer. Once the dough has fully risen and doubled in size, shape it into a ball, wrap it in plastic wrap coated in vegetable oil spray, place it in a zipper-lock bag, and freeze it for up to 2 weeks. The best way to defrost dough is to let it sit on the counter for a couple of hours or overnight in the refrigerator. (Thawing pizza dough in a microwave or low oven isn’t recommended as it will dry the dough out.)

Cheesy Stuffed Poblanos

Serves 4 to 6; Total Time 1 hour 15 minutes

why this recipe works

Stuffed peppers are a great way to make a hearty, simple vegetarian dinner. Poblanos are perfect for stuffing; their relatively large size makes them easy to fill, and their grassy, vegetal flavor pairs well with bold ingredients. We set out to create a simple recipe for poblanos stuffed with a cheesy filling. To make the peppers pliable enough to fill, we microwaved them briefly. To improve our filling’s flavor and to anchor the cheese in the peppers, we added a couple of cans of pinto beans (half of which we mashed for a more cohesive filling), corn, garlic, onion, and spices to a combination of Monterey Jack and cheddar cheeses. Roasting the stuffed peppers tenderized them and deepened their flavor. Fresh cherry tomato salsa nicely balanced the rich, cheesy peppers.

2 (15-ounce) cans pinto beans, rinsed

1 cup water

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 onion, chopped fine

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1 tablespoon minced fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon grated lime zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

Salt and pepper

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 cups frozen corn

4 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded (1 cup)

4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (1 cup)

¼ cup minced fresh cilantro

8 poblano chiles

1 recipe Cherry Tomato Salsa

1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 425 degrees. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with aluminum foil and set wire rack in each. Using potato masher, mash half of beans and water together in bowl until mostly smooth.

2. Heat oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, cumin, oregano, chili powder, lime zest, ½ teaspoon salt, and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in mashed bean mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until nearly all liquid has evaporated, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in remaining beans and corn and cook until warmed through, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in Monterey Jack, cheddar, cilantro, and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

3. Leaving stem intact, cut slit lengthwise down 1 side of each poblano. Microwave poblanos in covered bowl until just pliable, about 2½ minutes. Gently pry open poblanos, remove seeds, and stuff evenly with bean-cheese mixture. Lay poblanos, stuffed side up, on prepared sheets. Bake until tender, 30 to 40 minutes, switching and rotating sheets halfway through baking. Serve with salsa.

think like a cook

A FIELD GUIDE TO FRESH CHILES

Chiles are the backbone of Mexican cuisine. Some chiles are used for their heat, while others are used to provide flavor to sauces, stews, and more. Fresh chiles often have vegetal or grassy flavors, with clean, punchy heat, while dried chiles tend to have deeper, fruitier flavors, with nutty or even smoky undertones (see more about dried chiles on this page). We’ve rated the ones below on a scale of 1 to 4, with 1 being barely any heat and 4 being very hot, but keep in mind that even among chiles of the same variety, heat levels can vary. When shopping for fresh chiles, look for those with bright color and tight, unblemished skin. Be aware that the same chiles can go by different names in different parts of the country and can even vary in color.

Poblano

Large, triangular, green to red-brown; crisp, vegetal; substitutions: bell pepper, Anaheim

Heat: 1.0

Anaheim

Large, long, skinny, yellow-green to red; mildly tangy, vegetal; substitution: poblano

Heat: 2.0

Jalapeño

Small, smooth, shiny, green or red; bright, grassy; substitution: serrano

Heat: 2.5

Serrano

Small, dark green; bright, citrusy; substitution: jalapeño

Heat: 3.0

Thai

Narrow and petite; bright red or green, flavor similar to black peppercorns; substitution: half-dose habanero

Heat: 3.5

Habanero

Bulbous, bright orange to red; deeply floral, fruity; substitution: double-dose Thai

Heat: 4.0