Monaco

Pop 37,800 / %377

Squeezed into just 200 hectares (2.8 sq km), this confetti principality might be the world’s second-smallest country (the Vatican is smaller), but what it lacks in size it makes up for in attitude. Glitzy, glam and screaming hedonism, Monaco is truly beguiling.

Although a sovereign state (Monaco has its own flag and national anthem), the principality's status is unusual. It is not a member of the European Union, yet it participates in the EU customs territory (meaning no border formalities crossing from France into Monaco) and uses the euro as its currency. Citizens of Monaco (Monégasques) don’t pay taxes. The traditional Monégasque dialect is, broadly speaking, a mixture of French and Italian

History

Since the 13th century, Monaco’s history has been that of the Grimaldi family, whose rule began in 1297. Charles VIII, king of France, recognised Monégasque independence in 1489. But during the French Revolution, France snatched Monaco back and imprisoned its royal family. Upon release, they had to sell the few possessions they still owned and the palace became a warehouse.

The Grimaldis were restored to the throne under the 1814 Treaty of Paris. But in 1848 they lost Menton and Roquebrune to France, and Monaco swiftly became Europe’s poorest country. In 1860 Monégasque independence was recognised for a second time by France and a monetary agreement in 1865 sealed the deal on future cooperation between the two countries.

Rainier III (r 1949–2005), nicknamed le prince bâtisseur (the builder prince), expanded the size of his principality by 20% in the late 1960s by reclaiming land from the sea to create the industrial quarter of Fontvieille. In 2004 he doubled the size of the harbour with a giant floating dyke, placing Port de Monaco (Port Hercules) among the world’s leading cruise-ship harbours. Upon Rainier’s death, son Albert II became monarch.

DYNASTY

Monaco’s longest-ruling monarch, reigning for 56 years, Rainier III (1923–2005) won the heart of the nation with his fairy-tale marriage to Grace Kelly in 1956. The legendary Philadelphia-born actress made 11 films in the 1950s, including Alfred Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief (1955). The movie took Kelly to Cannes and Monaco for a photo shoot, where she met Rainier. Tragically, she died in a car crash in 1982.

The soap-opera lives on with the couple’s children: Prince Albert (b 1958 and monarch since 19 November 2005), Caroline and Stéphanie. Prince Albert is as well known for his sporting achievements (he’s a black belt in judo and played in the national soccer team) as he is for his two illegitimate children, neither of whom are in line for the throne. Much to the joy of the nation, however, Prince Albert wed South African swimmer Charlene Wittstock – 20 years his junior – in 2011 and in December 2014 presented Monaco with a twin set of heirs, Princess Gabriella and Prince Jacques (a few seconds younger than his sister but first in line to the throne).

1Sights & Activities

To explore Monaco thematically pick up 'Princess Grace' or 'Heritage Trees of Monaco' walking-tour brochures at the tourist office.

Monaco

1Top Sights

1Casino de Monte CarloE3

2Le RocherC6

3Musée Océanographique de MonacoD6

1Sights

4Cathédrale de MonacoD6

5Jardin ExotiqueA5

6Palais Princier de MonacoC6

7Villa PalomaB5

8Villa SauberF1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

9Digue de MonacoE4

10Stade Nautique Rainier IIIC5

4Sleeping

11ColumbusC7

12Hôtel MiramarD4

5Eating

13BouchonF2

Café LlorcaF2

14CasinoC4

15CosmopolitanE2

16La MaréeD4

17La MontgolfièreD6

18Marché de la CondamineC5

19Pierre GeronoliF1

20Ristorante MozzaE2

21SpaC5

22Stars 'n' BarsD5

23Tip TopE3

6Drinking & Nightlife

24Brasserie de MonacoC5

25Café de ParisE3

26JosephC5

27Le TeashopE1

28Sass CaféE2

29SnowflakeC5

Zelo'sF2

3Entertainment

30Auditorium Rainier IIIE4

31Billetterie d'Automobile Club de MonacoC4

32Grimaldi ForumF2

33Monaco Open-Air CinemaE6

34Opéra de Monte CarloE3

7Shopping

35Le MétropoleE3

36Les Pavillons de Monte CarloD3

oCasino de Monte CarloCASINO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.montecarlocasinos.com; place du Casino; admission 9am-noon €10, admission from 2pm Salons Ordinaires/Salons Privées €10/20; hvisits 9am-noon, gaming 2pm-2am or 4am or when last game ends)

Peeping inside Monte Carlo’s legendary marble-and-gold casino is a Monaco essential. The building, open to visitors every morning, is Europe's most lavish example of belle époque architecture. Prince Charles III came up with the idea of the casino and in 1866, three years after its inauguration, the name 'Monte Carlo' – Ligurian for 'Mount Charles' in honour of the prince – was coined. To gamble or watch the poker-faced play, visit after 2pm (when a strict over-18s-only admission rule kicks in).

Slot machines, blackjack, English and European roulette, and 30/40 entertain in the main gaming room, Salle Europe, and other Salons Ordinaires. The Salons Privés, where the James Bond–esque pros play, offer European roulette, blackjack and chemin de fer. Trainers (sneakers) are strictly forbidden and, while not obligatory, a jacket and tie (or equivalent smart dress) is recommended in the gaming rooms for men in the evening.

oMusée Océanographique de MonacoAQUARIUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oceano.mc; av St-Martin; adult/child €14/7; h9.30am-8pm Jul & Aug, 10am-7pm Apr, May, Jun & Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar)

Stuck dramatically to the edge of a cliff since 1910, the world-renowned Musée Océanographique de Monaco, founded by Prince Albert I (1848–1922), is a stunner. Its centrepiece is its aquarium with a 6m-deep lagoon where sharks and marine predators are separated from colourful tropical fish by a coral reef. Upstairs, two huge colonnaded rooms retrace the history of oceanography and marine biology (and Prince Albert’s contribution to the field) through photographs, old equipment, numerous specimens and interactive displays.

In all, there are around 90 tanks in the aquarium containing a dazzling 450 Mediterranean and tropical species, sustained by 250,000L of freshly pumped seawater per day. School holidays usher in free hourly light shows in the Salle de la Bileine (Skeleton Room) and feel-the-fish sessions in the kid-friendly tactile basin (45 minutes, €5); tickets for the latter are sold at the entrance.

Don't miss the sweeping views of Monaco and the Med and the cafe-clad rooftop terrace.

oLe RocherHISTORIC QUARTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Monaco Ville, also called Le Rocher, is the only part of Monaco to have retained small, windy medieval lanes. The old town thrusts skywards on a pistol-shaped rock, its strategic location overlooking the sea, becoming the stronghold of the Grimaldi dynasty. To access Le Rocher, from place aux Armes in the Condamine area, visitors can walk up the 16th-century red-brick Rampe Major, past the statue by Dutch artist Kees Verkade of the late Prince Rainier looking down on his beloved Monaco.

Palais Princier de MonacoPALACE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palais.mc; place du Palais; adult/child €8/4; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 7pm Jul & Aug)

Built as a fortress atop Le Rocher in the 13th century, this palace is the private residence of the Grimaldis (official residence of Prince Albert and Princess Charlene today). It is protected by the blue-helmeted, white-socked Carabiniers du Prince; changing of the guard takes place daily at 11.55am.

For a glimpse into royal life, tour the state apartments with lavish furnishings and expensive 18th- and 19th-century art typical of any aristocratic abode. Buy tickets in advance online to cut queueing time.

Cathédrale de MonacoCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4 rue Colonel Bellando de Castro; h8.30am-6.45pm, closed 1st Thu of month Sep-May)F

An adoring crowd continually shuffles past Prince Rainier’s and Princess Grace’s flower-adorned graves, located inside the cathedral choir of Monaco's 1875 Romanesque-Byzantine cathedral. The Monaco boys’ choir, Les Petits Chanteurs de Monaco, sings Sunday Mass at 10.30am between September and June.

Jardin ExotiqueGARDEN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jardin-exotique.mc; 62 bd du Jardin Exotique; adult/child €7.20/3.80; h9am-7pm May-Sep, to 6pm Feb-Apr & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Jan)

Home to the world’s largest succulent and cactus collection, from small echinocereus to 10m-tall African candelabras, the gardens tumble down the slopes of Moneghetti through a maze of paths, stairs and bridges. Views of the principality are spectacular. Admission includes the Musée d'Anthropologie, which displays prehistoric remains unearthed in Monaco, and a 35-minute guided tour of the Grotte de l’Observatoire. The prehistoric, stalactite- and stalagmite-laced cave is bizarre: it's the only cave in Europe where the temperature rises as you descend. Bus 2 links Jardin Exotique with the town centre.

Nouveau Musée National de MonacoART MUSEUM

(www.nmnm.mc)

Monaco's national museum is split between two sumptuous villas. Seasonal contemporary-art exhibitions focus on a theme: performing arts (Serge Diaghilev, stage designs etc) at beautiful belle époque Villa Sauber ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %98 98 91 26; 17 av Princesse Grace; adult/child €6/free, free admission Sun; h11am-7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-May), where a lush garden is shaded by several magnificent palms and ficus trees; and the environment (oceans, apocalypse etc) at the pearly-white Villa Paloma ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %98 98 48 60; 56 bd du Jardin Exotique; adult/child €6/free, free admission Sun; h11am-7pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm Oct-May ), built for an American in 1913.

Stade Nautique Rainier IIISWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %93 30 64 83; quai Albert 1er; morning/afternoon/evening/full day €3.20/3.80/2.30/5.60; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Sep–mid-Oct & May )

Olympic-sized outdoor seawater pool with diving boards and a curly water slide. In winter it becomes an ice rink.

DRESS CODE

By law it’s forbidden to inline skate or walk around town bare-chested, barefoot or bikini-clad. In the evening many restaurants, bars and entertainment venues will require smart outfits (jacket and tie for men).

zFestivals & Events

Festival International du CirquePERFORMING ARTS

(www.montecarlofestival.mc; hlate Jan)

Hold your breath during world-class acrobatics, or laugh out loud at the clowns.

Tennis Masters SeriesSPORTS

(www.montecarlotennismasters.com; hApr)

Fast becoming a key fixture on the professional circuit; if arriving by train alight at Monaco Country Club.

Formula One Grand PrixSPORTS

(www.formula1monaco.com; hlate May)

One of Formula One’s most iconic races. Enthusiasts can walk the 3.2km circuit through town; the tourist office has maps.

International Fireworks FestivalEVENT

(www.monaco-feuxdartifice.mc/en; hJul & Aug)F

A showdown of pyrotechnic expertise in the port area. The winner gets to organise the fireworks on 18 November, eve of Monaco's national holiday.

THE FORMULA ONE GRAND PRIX

If there’s one trophy a Formula One driver would like to have on the mantelpiece, it would have to be from the most glamorous race of the season, the Monaco Grand Prix. This race has everything. Its spectators are the most sensational: the merely wealthy survey the spectacle from Hôtel Hermitage, the really rich watch from their luxury yachts moored in the harbour, while the Grimaldis see the start and finish from the royal box at the port. Then there’s the setting: the cars scream around the very centre of the city, racing uphill from the start/finish line to place du Casino, then downhill around a tight hairpin and two sharp rights to hurtle through a tunnel and run along the harbourside to a chicane and more tight corners before the start/finish.

But despite its reputation, the Monaco Grand Prix is not really one of the great races. The track is too tight and winding for modern Formula One cars, and overtaking is virtually impossible. The Brazilian triple world champion Nelson Piquet famously described racing at Monaco as like ‘riding a bicycle around your living room’. Piquet clearly rides a much faster bicycle than most of us; Monaco may be the slowest race on the calendar, but the lap record is still over 160km/h, and at the fastest point on the circuit, cars reach 280km/h. Even the corner in the gloom of the tunnel is taken at 250km/h.

The 78-lap race happens on a Sunday afternoon in late May, the conclusion of several days of practice, qualifying and supporting races. Tickets (€40 to €480) are available from the Automobile Club de Monaco (www.acm.mc) online or in Monaco at its billetterie (Box Office; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %93 15 26 24; www.formula1monaco.com; 44 rue Grimaldi; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri).

by Tony Wheeler

4Sleeping

Accommodation in Monaco is expensive and reaches prohibitive levels during the Formula One Grand Prix when every hotel in Monaco and within a 50km radius of the principality gets booked up months in advance.

Include Monaco's country code +377 when calling hotels in Monaco from outside the principality.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

A SECRET BEACH

A peaceful, panoramic alternative to the sweaty busy hike with the crowds up Rampe Majeur to Le Rocher is via the Digue de Monaco (Monaco Dike; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) – the world's largest floating dike, 28m wide and 352m long. Scale the steps at the end of quai Antoine 1er and detour left along the dike's smooth concrete walkway to the viewpoint next to the cruiseship terminal. The Monte Carlo panorama from here is the best there is. Backtrack to Esplanade Stefano Casiraghi and recharge batteries on the vast, designer sundeck here – ladders allow you to dip into the water. Then weave your way along the coastal path and up through the shady Jardins St-Martin to Le Rocher. En route, watch for old stone steps careering steeply down to the water and a secret shingle beach only locals know about.

Monaco

Hôtel MiramarHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %93 30 86 48; www.miramar.monaco-hotel.com; 1 av du Président JF Kennedy; d €225; aW)

This modern hotel with rooftop-terrace restaurant – think a 1950s building with 21st-century makeover – is a great option right by the port. Seven of the 11 rooms have perfect yacht-oggling balconies. Breakfast €12.

ColumbusBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %92 05 90 00; www.columbushotels.com; 22 av des Papalins; d from €230; aiWs)

Hi-tech urban chic best describes this large boutique hotel in Fontvieille. Rooms are beautifully decorated in designer greys, elegant striped fabrics and ‘back to nature’ bathrooms with bamboo towel racks and elegant wooden furniture. All rooms have little balconies and good views (the higher the better). The outdoor pool is only heated from May to October.

CENT SAVER

Save a few cents by buying a combined ticket (adult/child €19/9) covering same-day admission to both the Palais Princier de Monaco and the Musée Océanographique de Monaco; both sights sell it.

Cap d'Ail

Budget accommodation in Monaco is nonexistent, but a couple of options lie within a short walk of the principality on Cap d'Ail in neighbouring France.

Relais International de la Jeunesse ThalassaHOSTEL€

(%04 93 78 18 58; www.clajsud.fr; 2 av Gramaglia, Cap d’Ail; dm €20; hApr-Oct)

This hostel has an outstanding location right by the beach and close to the train station. Dorms are simple but well kept. The downside is a daily lock out from 10am to 5pm. Rates include sheets and breakfast, and dinner/picnics (€12/9) are available.

Hôtel NormandyHOTEL€

(%04 93 78 77 77; www.hotelnormandy.no; 6 allée des Orangers, Cap d’Ail; d €89-179; hmid-Mar–Oct; W)

Original modern pieces adorn the walls at this sweet hotel run by a multilingual family of artists. Rooms have charm, with simple, old-school furniture and a sea view from some. Bathrooms are dated but with the bus 100 stop (for Nice, Menton and Monaco) just 50m away and the gorgeous beach of La Mala, a 20-minute walk, who can complain?

5Eating

oMarché de la CondamineFOOD COURT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/marche.condamine; 15 place d'Armes; h7am-3pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun)

For tasty, excellent-value fare around shared tables, hit Monaco's fabulous market food court, tucked beneath the arches behind the open-air market stalls on place d'Armes. Fresh pasta (€5.50 to €9) from Maison des Pâtes, truffle cuisine from Truffle Gourmet and traditional Niçois socca (€2.80 per slice) from Chez Roger steal the show. Check its Facebook page for what's cooking.

SpaSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7 place d'Armes; sandwiches €3-5, lunch menu €8; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun)

Ingenious. Stock up on fruit, breads, sandwiches, pasta pots to go and other light lunch goodies at this small but thoughtfully stocked supermarket, then plop yourself down at one of its tables on the car-free market square outside and eat.

CasinoSUPERMARKET€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 17 bd Albert 1er; pizza slices & sandwiches from €3.20; h8.30am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; v)

It’s not so much the supermarket that’s worth knowing about as its excellent street-side bakery and pizzeria, which churns out freshly prepared goodies. A saviour for those keen to watch the pennies.

Tip TopINTERNATIONAL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %93 50 69 13; www.facebook.com/TipTopMonaco; 11 av des Spélugues; pizza €12.50-19, pasta €14.50-16, mains €14.50-21; h9am-5am; W)

Closed for just four hours a day, this atmospheric bistro with a line-up of tables-for-two on the narrow pavement outside is where Monégasques gather all night long for good-value fodder and a gossip. The vibe is vintage and cuisine is hearty bistro. Check its Facebook page for the day's plat du jour chalked on the board.

BouchonFRENCH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %97 77 08 80; www.bouchon.mc; 11 av Princesse Grace; lunch menu €18 & €20; h7.30am-10.30pm)

For a timeless taste of Paris in Monaco head to this traditional French bistro, complete with vintage zinc bar, padded leather banquet seating and ceramic tiles on the wall. The menu is equally bistro-perfect: think snails, onion soup and steak-frîtes (steak and fries), not to mention breakfast from 7.30am, oysters at 6pm and cocktails after dark.

Stars ’n’ BarsAMERICAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.starsnbars.com; 6 quai Antoine 1er; burgers €15.50-24, mains €19.50-22 ; h7.30am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9.30am-midnight Sat & Sun ; c)

This American sports bar with TV screens and video games inside and striking terrace by the water outside is a Monaco icon. The winning Formula One racing car driven to victory by Mika Häkkinen in 1998 and 1999 hangs on one wall, and another wall displays snaps of the many stars who've hung out here. Racing memorabilia is everywhere, and burgers, ribs, sushi, steaks and salads are served all day.

Café LlorcaMODERN FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %99 99 29 29; www.cafellorca.mc; 10 av Princesse Grace, Grimaldi Forum; 2-course menu €22, mains €16-19; h11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri)

This chic bistro on the 1st floor of the Grimadi Forum conference centre is Michelin-starred chef Alain Llorca’s gift to lunch-goers: fabulous modern French cuisine with a fusion twist at affordable prices. The two-course lunch menu including a glass of wine is a steal. In spring/summer, make a beeline for the tables (book ahead) on the terrace overlooking the sea.

Ristorante MozzaITALIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %97 77 03 04; www.mozza.mc; 11 rue du Portier; lunch menus €18 & €20, mains €19-38; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun; v)

Mozza’s speciality is mozzarella – 10 varieties star in the tasty mozzarella bar here. Otherwise, it's fine traditional Italian fare, alongside unmissable culinary bastions of Italian culture such as after-work aperitivi (aperitifs with mouthwatering salamis, cold meats and other tasty nibbles).

CosmopolitanINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cosmopolitan.mc; 7 rue du Portier; lunch menu €16, €19 & €22, mains €25-30; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm; W)

The menu at this hip restaurant features timeless classics from all corners of the world, such as fish and chips, Thai green curry, three-cheese gnocchi and veal cutlets in Béarnaise sauce, all revisited by Cosmo’s talented chefs. Wash it down with one of the many wines on offer.

oLa MontgolfièreFUSION€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %97 98 61 59; www.lamontgolfiere.mc; 16 rue Basse; 3-/4-course menu €45/52; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat)

This pocket-sized restaurant is a local favourite amid the touristy jumble of Monaco’s historic quarter. The Hot Air Balloon is the culinary creation of Henri and Fabienne Geraci, a couple whose time in Malaysia was clearly well spent based on Henri’s outstanding fusion cuisine. In winter, he boils up bourride (a salted-cod stew typical of Monaco and Nice) every day.

Advance reservations essential.

La MaréeSEAFOOD€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %377 97 97 80 00; www.lamaree.mc; 7 av JF Kennedy; lunch menu Mon-Fri €35, brunch with/without wine €109/69 ; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun)

This stunning rooftop restaurant, with chic tables gazing brazenly down on the port, is a temple to seafood. The choice of fish and shellfish is exceptional and Sunday brunch is a hot weekend date.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

EVERY CHEF'S DARLING

When you start to feel the heat follow locals away from the tourist crowd to the kitchen boutique of Corsican maître glacier Pierre Geronoli ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 38 bd d'Italie; 1/2/3 scoops €3.8/7/10.10). The master ice-cream maker, the darling of every gastronomic chef around, crafts extraordinary flavours: beetroot and raspberry, pistachio and almond, chestnut cream and honey, tomato and basil, and champagne. Buy his creations straight in a cone or tub, or as a gourmet cocktail in a super-stylish verrine (glass jar).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Much of Monaco’s superchic drinking goes on in its designer restaurants and the bars of luxury hotels. Stars 'n' Bars is also hot.

oLe TeashopTEAROOM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place des Moulins; pot tea €4.70-7.60; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat)

This contemporary tea bar and boutique run by daughter Sharon and father Patrick woos tea lovers with 120 single-estate teas from small, family-run tea estates in China, Japan and India. Pick your leaves, milk (soya, almond, coco) and style – in a pot, as a hot frothy latte or cool with 'bubbles' Taiwan-style (pearls of tapioca or syrup, sucked through a straw).

Organic and/or gluten-free pâtisseries maison (homemade cakes) provide the perfect accompaniment.

SnowflakeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %377 977 724 67; www.facebook.com/SnowflakeMonaco; 3 av du Port; h10am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Sat )

This serene and stylish English bookshop, work space and cafe provides a peaceful respite from the portside tourist pandemonium. Decor is Scandinavian design, with armchairs to flop in as well as laptop-friendly desks. Check its Facebook page for creative workshops, readings and cultural happenings.

Café de ParisCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.montecarloresort.com; place du Casino; h7am-2am)

Monaco’s best-known cafe next to the casino has been in the biz since 1882 and is the place to people-watch. Service is brisk and occasionally snobbish, but it’s the price you pay for a front-row view of Monte Carlo's razzmatazz.

Brasserie de MonacoMICROBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.brasseriedemonaco.com; 36 rte de la Piscine; h4pm-1am Mon-Fri, noon-3am Sat, noon-1am Sun)

Tourists and locals rub shoulders at Monaco’s only microbrewery, which crafts rich organic ales and lager, and serves tasty lunch and snacking grub too. Watch out for live music and sports-event TV screenings. Happy hour 6pm to 8pm.

Zelo'sLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %99 99 25 50; www.zelosworld.com; 10 av Princesse Grace, Grimaldi Forum; h7.30pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat)

Glitzy, glam and utterly fabulous with its enormous chandeliers, intensely blue walls and ceiling fitted with hundreds of star-like lights, Zelo's is what Monaco nightlife is all about. At weekends DJs spins tunes from 11.30pm until the wee hours, while Monagèsque hipsters sip cocktails. The lounge bar has a restaurant too, with a magical summertime terrace staring out to sea.

JosephLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %97 98 49 70; www.josephmonaco.mc; 6 rte de la Piscine; h11am-2pm)

For a generous dose of Monagesque chic, hit this designer lounge bar at the port. Tropical white sand carpets the floor of the stark aquarium-inspired interior, and stylish driftwood sculptures adorn the port-facing terrace. At lunchtime Joseph is more restaurant, but come dusk the piano bar, cocktails and live music kick in. Dress up to blend in.

Sass CaféBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %93 25 52 00; www.sasscafe.com; 11 av Princesse Grace; h7pm-3am)

This popular piano bar is reminiscent of old-school cabarets with its shiny bar counter, lacquered grand piano (live jazz every night) and padded red walls.

3Entertainment

Monaco Open-Air CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cinema2monaco.com; chemin des Pêcheurs; adult/child €11/8; hmid-Jun–Sep)

Watch crowd-pleasing blockbusters, mostly in English, beneath the stars at this open-air cinema. Films start at 10pm nightly in June and July, and at 9pm in August and September. No advance reservations, so arrive when the doors open at 8.45pm (8pm August and September).

Opéra de Monte CarloOPERA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %92 16 22 99; www.opera.mc; place du Casino)

Also known as the Salle Garnier, this 1892 confection of neoclassical splendour adjoining Monte Carlo Casino was designed by Charles Garnier (who also designed the Paris opera).

Monte Carlo Philharmonic OrchestraCLASSICAL MUSIC

(www.opmc.mc)

Going strong since 1856, the orchestra maintains the tradition of summer concerts in the Cour d’Honneur (Courtyard of Honour) at the Palais Princier, although tickets are like gold dust. Year-round the orchestra performs at the Grimaldi Forum ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %99 99 30 00; www.grimaldiforum.mc; 10 av Princesse Grace) and Auditorium Rainier III ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %93 10 85 00; blvd Louis II); buy tickets online or at the Atrium du Casino ( GOOGLE MAP ; %98 06 28 28; Casino de Monte Carlo, place du Casino; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sat) inside Monte Carlo Casino.

Les Ballets de Monte CarloDANCE

(www.balletsdemontecarlo.com)

The Monte Carlo Ballet is a word-class act. The company regularly tours internationally and performances in Monaco sell out months in advance. Buy tickets through Monaco Spectacle (www.monaco-spectacle.com).

7Shopping

Monaco’s streets drip with couture and designer shops; many congregate in Monte Carlo on av des Beaux Arts and av de Monte Carlo. For vaguely more mainstream (read less expensive) fashion boutiques, try Le Métropole. ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.metropoleshoppingcenter.com; 17 av des Spélugues; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat) Mid-July to mid-August, boutiques open Sunday.

Les Pavillons de Monte CarloMALL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; allées des Boulingrins, place du Casino )

No, the Tellytubbies have not moved into Monte Carlo. The five giant snow-white 'pebbles' that sprung up on the lawns of Jardins des Boulingrins in 2014 are temporary home (until 2018) to the luxury boutiques previously housed in the now-demolished Sporting d'Hiver, which is currently being rebuilt. Follow the footpath that slaloms around the striking aluminum edifices to shop at Chanel, McQueen, Sonia Rykiel, Dior et al.

8Information

Centre Hospitalier Princesse GraceHOSPITAL

(Hospital; GOOGLE MAP ; %97 98 99 00; www.chpg.mc; 1 av Pasteur)

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %112; 3 rue Louis Notari)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitmonaco.com; 2a bd des Moulins; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 11am-1pm Sun)

For tourist information by the port, head to the seasonal kiosk run by the tourist office near the cruise-ship terminal on Esplanade des Pêcheurs.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Héli-Air Monaco ( GOOGLE MAP ; %92 05 00 50; www.heliairmonaco.com) runs helicopter flights between Nice and Monaco's Héliport ( GOOGLE MAP ; av des Ligures) several times a day (€138, seven minutes).

Bus

Bus 100 (€1.50, every 15 minutes from 6am to 9pm) goes to Nice (45 minutes) and Menton (40 minutes) along the Corniche Inférieure. Bus 110 (single/return €20/30, hourly) goes to Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport (40 minutes). Both services stop at place d’Armes ( GOOGLE MAP ) and the bus stop ( GOOGLE MAP ) on bd des Moulins opposite Jardins des Boulingrins. Night services run Thursday to Saturday.

Car

Only Monaco and Alpes-Maritimes (06) registered cars can access Monaco Ville. If you decide to drive, park in one of the numerous underground car parks (first hour free, €2.40 next 20 minutes, then €1 per 20 minutes).

Train

Services run about every 20 minutes east to Menton (€2.20, 15 minutes) and west to Nice (€3.30, 25 minutes). Access to the station ( GOOGLE MAP ) is through pedestrian tunnels and escalators from 6 av Prince Pierre de Monaco, pont Ste-Dévote, place Ste-Dévote and bd de la Belgique. The last trains leave around 11pm.

8Getting Around

Bus

Monaco’s urban bus system, operated by Compagnie des Autobus de Monaco (www.cam.mc), has six lines. Line 2 links Monaco Ville to Monte Carlo and then loops back to the Jardin Exotique. Line 4 links the train station with the tourist office, the casino and Plage du Larvotto. After 9.20pm the Bus de Nuit (9.20pm to 12.30am) follows one big loop around town; service is extended to 4am on Friday and Saturday. Tickets cost €1.50 (day ticket €5.50).

Boat

From the dike end of quai Antoine 1er, the solar-powered Bateau Bus sails back and forth across the harbour between quai Rainier III (Monaco Ville) and quai des États-Unis (Monte Carlo). Boats sail every 20 minutes from 8am to 7.50pm; buy tickets (€2) on board.

Lifts

A system of escalators and public lifts links the steep streets. They operate either 24 hours or 6am to midnight or 1am.

Taxi

Taxi Monaco PrestigeTAXI

(%08 20 20 98 98; www.taximonacoprestige.com)

WALKING FROM CAP D'AIL TO MENTON

With the exception of in Monaco, you can walk the 13km between Cap d’Ail and Menton without passing a car. The Sentier du Littoral follows the rugged coastline from the hedonistic Plage Mala (a tiny gravel cove where a couple of restaurants double as private beach and cocktail bars) in Cap d’Ail to Plage Marquet in the Fontvieille neighbourhood of Monaco. The path then picks up at the other end of Monaco, in Larvotto, from where you can walk to Menton along the beaches and wooded shores of Cap Martin, including the beautiful Plage Buse.

The walk is easy going, but visitors should note that the stretch of coast between Monaco and Cap d’Ail is inaccessible in bad weather. The path is well signposted and you can easily walk small sections or make a day trip out of it, including beach stops and lunch in Monaco. If you don’t fancy walking through Monaco you can catch bus 6 from Larvotto to Fontvieille.

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin

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Beautiful Cap Martin nestles its languid shores into the sea of crystalline water between Monaco and Menton. The village of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is actually centred on the medieval village of Roquebrune, which towers over the cape (the village and cape are linked by innumerable very steep steps). The amazing thing about this place is that despite Monaco's proximity, it feels a world away from the urban glitz of the principality: the coastline around Cap Martin remains relatively unspoiled and it's as if Roquebrune had left its clock on medieval time.

1Sights

oCabanon Le CorbusierARCHITECTURE

(%06 48 72 90 53; www.capmoderne.com; Promenade Le Corbusier; guided tours adult/child €15/10; hguided tours only 10am & 3pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, 10am & 2pm Tue-Sun May, Jun & Sep–mid-Oct)

The only building French architect Le Corbusier (1887–1965) ever built for himself is this rather simple – but very clever – beach hut on Cap Martin. The cabanon, a small beach hut that he completed in 1952, became his main holiday home until his death. The hut can be visited on excellent 2½-hour guided tours run by the Association Cap Moderne; tours depart on foot from Roquebrune-Cap-Martin train station and must be reserved in advance by phone or email.

Le Corbusier first came to Cap Martin in the 1930s to visit friend Eileen Gray, an Irish designer who had built a house here. Le Corbusier loved the area and visited often. During one of his stays, however, Le Corbusier decided to paint the interior of Gray's villa without her permission. Gray was understandably furious: Le Corbusier’s paintings had ruined the perspectives of her design, and she was offended by the subject matter (kissing women; Gray was a lesbian).

No longer welcome as a guest, Le Corbusier did come back to Gray's villa in 1949, but as a tenant. It was during that stay that he met Robert Rebutato, owner of L’Étoile de Mer, the next-door cafe where he ate his meals. Friendship blossomed between the two men, and in 1951 they agreed on the construction of a beach house next door to L’Étoile de Mer so that Le Corbusier could have his own space.

The cabanon was designed using the Modulor, a mathematical benchmark based on the height of a man with his arms up.

RoquebruneHISTORIC SITE

The medieval chunk of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, Roquebrune sits 300m high on a pudding-shaped lump crowned by 10th-century Château de Roquebrune (www.roquebrune-cap-martin.com; place William Ingram, Roquebrune; adult/child €5/3; h10am-1pm & 2.30-7pm Jun-Sep, shorter hrs rest yr) – an atmospheric place with simple but evocative props of life in medieval times. Of all the steep and tortuous streets leading up to the chateau, rue Moncollet, with its arcaded passages and rock-carved stairways, is the most impressive. Architect Le Corbusier is buried in the village cemetery (section J – he designed his own tombstone). Sensational sea views unfold from place des Deux Frères.

4Sleeping & Eating

Fraise et ChocolatCAFE€

(place des Deux Frères; sandwiches/paninis €4/5; h8am-6pm; v)

Strawberry and Chocolate is a delightful cafe with an old-fashioned-deli feel on Roquebrune's main square. Stop for a drink, an ice cream or a quick bite (sandwiches and quiches) on the back terrace and swoon over the sweeping sea view.

Les Deux FrèresMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 93 28 99 00; www.lesdeuxfreres.com; place des Deux Frères; lunch/dinner menu €28/48; hnoon-2.30pm Wed-Sun, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; W)

This gourmet hotel-restaurant with panoramic terrace is super stylish. Eight chic boutique rooms (doubles €75 to €100) – two with sweeping sea views – slumber up top, while waiters in black serve magnificent dishes (huge pieces of meat or whole fish for two, delicate fish fillets in hollandaise sauce or spinach and basil olive oil) hidden beneath silver domed platters.

oHôtel VictoriaDESIGN HOTEL€€€

(%04 93 35 65 90; www.hotel-victoria.fr; 7 promenade du Cap Martin; d from €196; aiW)

Fans of Eileen Gray and Le Corbusier should make a beeline for this sensational hotel on the shores of Cap Martin. Everything from the frescoes in the stunning white-and-blue rooms to the lithographies and custom-made furniture draws from the designers' influences. All rooms are on the 1st floor and those facing the sea have balconies. Cheaper online rates.

The hotel is next to the bus 100 stop (going to Menton, Monaco and Nice) and 500m from Carnolès train station (on the Nice–Ventimille route).

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Bus 100 (€1.50) goes to Monaco (20 minutes), Nice (1¼ hours) and Menton (30 minutes); it stops on av de la Côte d'Azur, which lies below Roquebrune and above Cap Martin (you'll see steps near the bus stop).

Train

The Cap-Martin-Roquebrune train station is at the Cap Martin end of town; destinations include Monaco (€1.60, four minutes), Nice (€4, 30 minutes), Menton (€1.40, six minutes) and Ventimiglia (€3.70, 20 minutes); trains runs half-hourly.

Walking

It takes 30 to 45 minutes to walk from Cap Martin to Roquebrune, depending on your fitness level (a lot less the other way around since it's downhill). You'll find several staircases linking the two parts of town.

Menton & Around

A string of mountain villages peer down on Menton from the surrounding hills. The remote Parc National du Mercantour (www.mercantour.eu), a prime walking area, is just 20km away. But start your explorations on Menton's doorstep in Ste-Agnès and Gorbio.

Menton

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Menton used to be famous for two things: its lemons and its exceptionally sunny climate. Its belle époque glitz as the place everyone wanted to be subsequently wore off, but with the opening of the architecturally striking Musée Jean Cocteau Collection Séverin Wunderman, not to mention a sensational Michelin-starred restaurant and other fine wines and dines, Menton is enjoying something of a renaissance.

Menton

1Top Sights

1Musée Jean Cocteau Collection Séverin WundermanC3

1Sights

2Basilique St-Michel ArchangeD2

3Cimetière du Vieux ChâteauC2

4Musée du BastionD3

5Salle des MariagesC2

4Sleeping

6Hôtel LemonA3

7Hôtel NapoléonD1

5Eating

8Au Baiser du MitronC2

9Eric KayserB3

10Halles MunicipalesC2

11Le Bistrot des JardinsB2

12Le CirkeC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

13Time'sC2

1Sights

The town’s epicentre is the bustling, pedestrianised rue St-Michel and its ice-cream parlours and souvenir shops.

oMusée Jean Cocteau Collection Séverin WundermanGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 89 81 52 50; www.museecocteaumenton.fr; 2 quai de Monléon; adult/child €8/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)

Art collector Séverin Wunderman donated some 1500 Cocteau works to Menton in 2005 on the condition that the town build a dedicated Cocteau museum. And what a museum Menton built: this futuristic, low-rise building is a wonderful space to make sense of Cocteau’s eclectic work. Its collection includes drawings, ceramics, paintings and cinematographic work. Admission includes the Cocteau-designed Musée du Bastion.

Musée du BastionART MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; quai Napoléon III; combined admission with Musée Jean Cocteau adult/child €8/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)

Cocteau loved Menton. It was following a stroll along the seaside that he got the idea of turning a disused 1636 bastion on the seafront into a monument to his work. He restored the building himself, decorating the alcoves, outer walls, reception hall and floors with pebble mosaics. The works on display change regularly.

Salle des MariagesARCHITECTURE

(Registry Office; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 10 50 00; place Ardoïno; adult/child €2/free; h8.30am-noon & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

In 1957 Jean Cocteau decorated Menton's registry office, inside the town hall. It's a distinctive space, with swirly drawings, leopard-print carpet and no windows. An audio commentary (French only) runs you through the symbolism of Cocteau's designs.

Vieille VilleHISTORIC QUARTER

Menton’s old town is a cascade of pastel-coloured buildings. Meander the historic quarter all the way to the Cimetière du Vieux Château ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; montée du Souvenir; h7am-8pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr) for great views. From place du Cap a ramp leads to southern France’s grandest baroque church, Italianate Basilique St-Michel Archange ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place de l’Église St-Michel; h10am-noon & 4-6pm Mon-Fri Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-Jun), whose creamy facade is flanked by a 35m-tall clock tower and 53m-tall steeple (1701–03).

Jardin de la Serre de la MadoneGARDEN

(%04 93 57 73 90; www.serredelamadone.com; 74 rte de Gorbio; adult/child €8/4; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm Dec-Mar)

Beautiful if slightly unkempt, this garden was designed by American botanist Lawrence Johnston. He planted dozens of rare plants picked up from his travels around the world. Abandoned for decades, it has been mostly restored to its former glory. Guided tours (1½ hours) take place daily at 3pm. Take bus 7 to the ‘Serre de la Madone’ stop.

Jardin Botanique Exotique du Val RahmehGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 35 86 72; http://jardinvalrahmeh.free.fr/; av St-Jacques; adult/child €6/5.50; h10am-12.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Wed-Mon May-Aug, 10am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Sep-Apr )

Laid out in 1905 for Lord Radcliffe, governor of Malta, the terraces of the Val Rahmeh overflow with exotic fruit-tree collections, including the only European specimen of the Easter Island tree Sophora toromiro, now extinct on the island.

zFestivals & Events

Fête du CitronCARNIVAL

(Lemon Festival; www.feteducitron.com; hFeb)

Menton’s quirky two-week Fête du Citron sees sculptures and decorative floats made from tonnes of lemons weave along the seafront. Afterwards, the monumental lemon creations are dismantled and the fruit sold off at bargain prices in front of Palais de l’Europe. Each year the festival follows a different theme.

4Sleeping

Accommodation gets booked up months in advance for the Fête du Citron in February (prices also soar), so plan ahead.

oHôtel LemonHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 28 63 63; www.hotel-lemon.com; 10 rue Albert 1er; s/d/tr/q €59/69/85/125; W)

Hôtel Lemon sits in an attractive 19th-century villa with pretty garden, opposite a school. Its spacious minimalist rooms are decked out in shades of white with bright red or lemon-yellow bathrooms. Breakfast €6.50.

oHôtel NapoléonBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 35 89 50; www.napoleon-menton.com; 29 porte de France; d €95-260; aiWs)

Standing tall on the seafront, the Napoléon is Menton’s most stylish option. Everything from the pool, the restaurant-bar and the back garden (a heaven of freshness in summer) has been beautifully designed. Rooms are decked out in white and blue, with Cocteau drawings on headboards. Sea-facing rooms have balconies but are a little noisier because of the traffic.

The two top-floor suites with sea views are sensational, with floor-to-ceiling windows, larger balconies and great views from the bath-tub!

5Eating & Drinking

In the old town pedestrian rue du Vieux Collège is worth a meander for its tasty line-up of eateries. Rue St-Michel is littered with touristy shops selling lemon-based products, including limoncello, lemonade, lemon-infused olive oil and lemon preserve.

oTime'sWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 89 14 44 15; 32 rue de la République; h10am-2.30pm & 4pm-midnight)

With the opening of this funky wine bar-hangout, nightlife has arrived in Menton. Be it a morning coffee, a dusk cocktail with 'snacking', something for lunch from the ardoise (blackboard) or late-night tapas, Time's has every base covered. DJs spin deep house on Thursdays, and weekends usher in hipster-cool themed soirées and happenings.

Eric KayserBOULANGERIE, CAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 28 25 81; www.maison-kayser.com; 1 rue Partouneaux; h7am-7pm)

Fortunately for the rest of France, this Parisian baker has spread his wings to the Mediterranean, where deeply satisfying breads and pastries titillate local tastebuds. Half-baguettes filled with different sandwich fillings, generously topped focaccia slices and pain citron (lemon bread) ensure the perfect picnic. Eat in or take away. Find a smaller branch in Menton's indoor Halles Municipales ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; quai de Monléon; h7.15am-1pm), a food market by the seafront.

Le Bistrot des JardinsPROVENçAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 28 28 09; www.lebistrotdesjardins.com; 14 av Boyer; 2-/3-course menu €22/30, mains €19-38; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun )

Advance reservations are inevitably required at this delightful patio garden restaurant with lilac tableclothed tables languishing alfresco between flowering magnolias and aromatic pots of thyme, sage and other Provençal herbs. The traditional, market-inspired cuisine is equally attractive – the springtime green asparagus served with preserved purple artichoke and parmesan is worth a trip in itself.

Le CirkeSEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 89 74 20 54; www.restaurantlecirke.com; 1 square Victoria; lunch menus €26 & €29, dinner menus €30 & €45, mains €18-35; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.15-9.30pm Wed-Mon)

From paella to bouillabaisse (fish stew), grilled fish to fried calamari, this smart Italian-run restaurant is the place to turn to for delicious seafood. The wine list is a mix of Italian and French wines, and the service is as sunny as Menton itself.

oLe MirazurGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 92 41 86 86; www.mirazur.fr; 30 av Aristide Briand; lunch menu €47, dinner menus €85 & €140; h12.15-2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun Mar-Dec)

Design, cuisine and sea view (the full sweep of the Med above Menton town below) are all spectacular at this 1930s villa with a twinset of Michelin stars. This is the culinary kingdom of daring Argentian chef Mauro Colagreco, who flavours dishes not with heavy sauces, but with herbs and flowers from Le Mirazur's dazzling flower garden, herb and citrus orchard and vegetable patch.

Find it 3km northeast of Menton off the coastal D6007 to Italy. Cooking classes too.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE BAKER'S KISS

A Kiss from the Baker, or Au Baiser du Mitron ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aubaiserdumitron.com; 8 rue Piéta; h8am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 2pm Sun) as it is otherwise known, is no ordinary boulangerie (bakery). Its shelves are a veritable showcase of breads from the Côte d'Azur, inland Provence and places elsewhere in the world that innovative baker Kevin Le Meur has travelled to. Loaves of ink-black bread made with vegetal charcoal, quinoa and chickpea flour sit neatly on wooden shelves next to plump rounds of bacon-topped fougasses (a flat bread stuffed with olives, pancetta or anchovies), Niçois grisses, lavender-flavoured buns and fruit breads laced with nuts, figs, apricots and cranberries. Les Montagnards (mountain breads) – shaped in boules (big balls), couronnes (crowns) and baguettines (mini bageuttes) – come from an old family recipe and are made to last. Whatever the loaf – Russian borodinsky, Swedish limpa or Italian ciabatta – everything is baked in Kevin Le Meur's traditional four à bois (wood bread oven) from 1906 using 100% natural ingredients and no preservatives. Then, of course, there is his signature tarte au citron de Menton (Menton lemon tart)...

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 41 76 76; www.tourisme-menton.fr; 8 av Boyer; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Bus 100 (€1.50, every 15 minutes) goes to Nice (1½ hours) via Monaco (40 minutes) and the Corniche Inférieure. Bus 110 links Menton with Nice-Côte d’Azur Airport (single/return €20/30, one hour, hourly).

There are regular train services (half-hourly) to Ventimiglia in Italy (€2.60, nine minutes), Monaco (€2.20, 11 minutes) and Nice (€4.60, 35 minutes).

WORTH A TRIP

MARKET DASH TO ITALY

Menton literally sits on the border with Italy and there is no finer reason to dash across for a dose of la dolce vita (the sweet life) than the all-day Friday market in Ventimiglia (Vintimille in French), the border town on the Italian side. The market sprawls over 1km along the seafront and is popular among French shoppers for its cheap fruit and veg, tasty deli counters (mozzarella-stuffed peppers, sun-dried tomatoes etc), bargain leather goods and cheap fashion. Watch out for counterfeits here; French customs take it very seriously and you risk a fine and confiscation of your goods.

Ventimiglia is at the end of the French SNCF network; there are half-hourly trains to/from Menton (€2.60, nine minutes), Monaco (€3.70, 20 minutes), Nice (€7.20, 45 minutes) and Cannes (€12.80, 1½ hours).

Ste-Agnès & Gorbio

Ste-Agnès’ claim to fame – Europe’s highest seaside village – is not for nothing: sitting snug on a rocky outcrop at 780m, the village (population 1223) looks spectacular and commands dramatic views of the area. For the most breathtaking panorama, climb the 200 or so steps to the rubbly 12th-century château ruins with their intriguing flower beds, based on allegorical gardens found in medieval French poetry.

The drawbridged entrance to huge subterranean Fort Ste-Agnès (www.sainteagnes.fr; Ste-Agnès; adult/child €5/2; h10.30am-noon & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 2.30-5.30pm Sat & Sun Oct-May) sits at the top of the village. This 2500-sq-metre defence was built between 1932 and 1938 as part of the 240km-long Maginot line, a series of fortifications intended to give France time to mobilise its army if attacked. The fort is in good condition: it was maintained throughout the Cold War as a nuclear-fallout shelter and the army only moved out in 1990. Interestingly, it is thanks to this active military history that the village of Ste-Agnès is so picturesque today: all new developments were prohibited in the village during the army's presence, a measure that the village has since maintained.

A well-signposted path leads to neighbouring Gorbio, another drop-dead-gorgeous Provençal hilltop village. Just 2km as the crow flies from Ste-Agnès, it is much more convoluted to get there by car, so walking is a good option. Allow one hour on the way down, and 1¼ hours back up, particularly if you’ve had lunch at the exquisite Le Beauséjour (%04 93 41 46 15; 14 place de la République, Gorbio; lunch/dinner menu €29/44, mains €17-25; hnoon-2.30pm Thu-Tue Apr-Oct, 7.15-9.30pm Jul-Sep). The stuff of Provençal lunch dreams, 'Beautiful Stay' serves up local fare in a buttermilk house overlooking the village square. Inside, the dining room, which looks like it's straight out of a glossy design magazine, proffers panoramic views of the tumbling vale. No credit cards.