Cannes & Around

Why Go?

There are few places in the world where you can go from showbiz glitz and opulent luxury to remote rural life within 45 minutes. This is one of them. Glamorous Cannes sets camera flashes popping at its film festival in May, when stars pose in tuxes and full-length gowns on the red carpet of La Croisette – you could fine dine alongside the famous and drink till dawn in the seaside town's designer bars. A 'take two' scenario could find you fleeing the congested city to walk along peaceful trails and wander farmers' flower-filled fields by day and dine decadently by night.

Equally compelling is the region’s art heritage: Matisse, Picasso and Renoir all stopped here for inspiration, and the works they left behind are superb. Then there's the Massif de l'Estérel, with its rugged, flaming, red-rock beauty and top-rated walks.

Driving Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

A L'Atelier Jean-Luc Pelé

A Bobo Bistro

A Le Sot l'y Laisse

A Auberge de Courmes

A Bistrot Gourmand Clovis

Best Modern Art

A Musée Picasso

A Musée Renoir

A Chapelle du Rosaire

A Fondation Maeght

A Bastion St-Jaume

Cannes & Around Highlights

1 Revel in exceptional 20th-century art at Fondation Maeght and play pétanque (similar to lawn bowls) in hilltop stunner St-Paul de Vence.

2 Trail Picasso at the Musée Picasso in Antibes and Vallauris' Musée National Picasso 'La Guerre et la Paix'.

3 Lap up sun-drenched views of the Med, the Alps and billionnaires' mansions along the Cap d'Antibes coastal path.

4 Retrace three millennia of perfume making and visit a flower farm in Grasse.

5 Flee the crowds with a hairpin-turn- and gourmet-lunch-laced road trip through the dramatic Gorges du Loup.

6 Lose yourself in the vibrant colour palette of the Corniche de l'Estérel, flaming scarlet at sunset.

7 Mingle with yachties in upmarket Antibes at the town's morning Marché Provençal, in its five-star farm-to-table eateries and – by night – at the dramatic foot of Nomade.

Cannes to Biot

Cannes

Pop 74,626

As you walk among the couture shops and palaces of La Croisette, the wealth and glamour of it all cannot fail to impress: admiring Ferraris and Porsches cruising by and celebrity spotting on the glitzy sunlounger-striped beaches and liner-sized yachts moored at the port are hot Cannes pastimes.

For those not seduced by Cannes’ hedonistic air, there’s enough natural beauty to make a trip worthwhile: the harbour, the bay, the clutch of islands off the coast and the old quarter, Le Suquet, all spring into life on a sunny day.

Cannes

1Top Sights

1La CroisetteG3

1Sights

2Le SuquetB3

3Marché ForvilleB2

4Palais des Festivals et des CongrèsD3

5Vieux PortC3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Les Apprentis GourmetsG1

7Plage du MidiA4

4Sleeping

8ColetteE1

9Hôtel 7e ArtD1

10Hôtel AlneaD1

Hôtel Le MistralE2

11Hôtel SplendidD2

5Eating

12Aux Bons EnfantsB2

13Bobo BistroG2

14Fromagerie CeneriC1

15JP PaciF1

16La Boulangerie par Jean-Luc PeléE1

17La Casa di NonnaF1

18L'AffableG2

19MantelB2

Marché ForvilleB2

New York, New YorkD2

20Petit ParisE2

21PhilCatC2

22Sea SensE2

6Drinking & Nightlife

23Armani CaffèG3

24JW GrillG3

25Les MarchesE3

26Sun 7 BarF2

3Entertainment

27Cinéma Les ArcadesC2

1Sights

oLa CroisetteARCHITECTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

The multistarred hotels and couture shops lining the iconic bd de la Croisette (aka La Croisette) may be the preserve of the rich and famous, but anyone can enjoy strolling the palm-shaded promenade – a favourite pastime among Cannois at night, when it twinkles with bright lights. Views of the Bay of Cannes and nearby Estérel mountains are beautiful, and seafront hotel palaces dazzle in all their stunning art deco glory.

Legendary addresses include the Martinez and the Carlton InterContinental, with twin cupolas modelled on the breasts of the courtesan La Belle Otéro, infamous for her string of lovers – Tsar Nicholas II and Britain’s King Edward VII among them.

Palais des Festivals et des CongrèsLANDMARK

(Festival & Congress Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 bd de la Croisette; guided tour adult/child €4/free)

Posing for a selfie on the 22 steps leading up to the main entrance to this concrete bunker – unlikely host to the world’s most glamorous film festival – at the western end of La Croisette is a Cannes essential. Afterwards, wander along the Allée des Étoiles du Cinéma, a footpath of 46 celebrity hand imprints in the pavement – pick up the start of it with the hands of Meryl Streep in front of the tourist office.

The only way to enter the festival building and walk into the auditorium, tread the stage and learn about cinema’s most glamorous event is with a Palais des Festivals guided tour organised by the Cannes tourist office. Tours can only be booked in person at the tourist office; check dates on its website.

Vieux Port & Le SuquetHISTORIC QUARTER

On the western side of the Palais des Festivals lies the real Cannes. The yachts that frame the Vieux Port (Old Port; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) don’t seem to impress the local men playing pétanque on Sq Lord Brougham. Follow rue St-Antoine and snake your way up Le Suquet ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Cannes’ oldest quartier, for great views of the bay.

2Activities

Cannes is blessed with sandy beaches, although much of the bd de la Croisette stretch is taken up by private beaches, leaving just a small strip of free sand near the Palais des Festivals for the bathing hoi polloi.

Plage du MidiSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bd Jean Hibert)F

West of Vieux Port.

Plage de la BoccaSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP )F

West of Vieux Port.

Plage VegalunaSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 43 67 05; www.vegaluna.com; La Croisette; sun-loungers €15-25; h9.30am-7pm; Wc)

Family-friendly private beach.

Z PlageSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 90 12 34; La Croisette; h9.30am-6pm May-Sep)

Expect to pay €36/32/42 for the blue loungers on the front row/other rows/pier of the super-stylish Z Plage, the beach of Hôtel Martinez. Booking ahead is advised.

TTours

Trans Côte d’AzurBOAT TOUR

(%04 92 98 71 30; www.trans-cote-azur.com; quai Max Laubeuf)

June to September, this boat company sails to St-Tropez (adult/child return €48/38) and Monaco (€52/38). Shorter, two-hour cruises (€27/17) take in the dramatic contrasts of the Estérel’s red cliffs, green forests and intense azure waters.

zFestivals & Events

Cannes lives for music in the summer, so come prepared to party hard.

Festival de CannesFILM

(www.festival-cannes.com; hMay)

You won’t get in, but it’s fun because you see all the celebs walking around.

Festival d’Art PyrotechniqueFIREWORKS

(www.festival-pyrotechnique-cannes.com)

Around 200,000 people cram onto La Croisette every summer to admire the outstanding fireworks display over the Bay of Cannes. Magical. Held on six nights from July to August.

Les Plages ÉlectroniquesMUSIC

(www.plages-electroniques.com; 1-day pass €16-21, 2-/3-day pass €31.10/41.10)

DJs spin on the sand at the Plage du Palais des Festivals during this relaxed festival. Held July to August, once a week for five or six weeks.

Festival PantieroMUSIC

(www.festivalpantiero.com; tickets €25-30; hearly Aug)

Electronic-music and indie-rock festival on the terrace of the Palais des Festivals; very cool.

4Sleeping

Cannes is a key conference centre and hotels fill up with every event, so try to plan ahead if you want to stay in the city. Search and book accommodation online through the tourist office with Cannes Hôtel Réservation (www.cannes-hotel-reservation.fr); for self-catering apartments, try Riviera Pebbles (www.rivierapebbles.com).

Hôtel AlneaHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 68 77 77; www.hotel-alnea.com; 20 rue Jean de Riouffe; s/d/tr €76/88/99; aW)

At this breath of fresh air in a town of stars, Noémi and Cédric have put their heart and soul into things, offering bright, colourful two-star rooms, original paintings and numerous little details such as the afternoon coffee break, the honesty bar and the loans of bike or boules (to play pétanque). Breakfast €8.50.

Hôtel de ProvenceHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 38 44 35; www.hotel-de-provence.com; 9 rue Molière; s €118-139, d €161-189; aW)

This traditional Provençal townhouse with buttermilk walls and lavender-blue shutters disguises a minimalist-chic interior. Almost every room sports a balcony, climaxing with a 7th-floor suite with stunning rooftop terrace. The Provence also has self-catering studios for three to six people in the neighbourhood. Breakfast €9.80.

Hôtel Le MistralBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 39 91 46; www.mistral-hotel.com; 13 rue des Belges; d €95-135; aW)

This 10-room hotel wins the palme d’or for best value in town: two-star rooms are small but decked out in flattering red and plum tones, bathrooms feature lovely designer fittings, there are sea views from the top floor, and the hotel is just 50m from La Croisette. Breakfast €9.

ColetteBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 39 01 17; www.hotelcolette.com; 5 place de la Gare; d €125-330; aiW)

With the much-awaited renovation of the now suitably swank train station complete, four-star boutique Colette opposite the station looks right at home. Bright, contemporary furnishings give the space a youthful air, and cheaper last-minute rates are good value (for Cannes). Breakfast €15.

Hôtel SplendidHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 97 06 22 22; www.splendid-hotel-cannes.com; 4-6 rue Félix Faure; d from €154; ai)

This sparkling white ship of an 1871 palace enchants with beautifully decorated rooms, vintage furniture, an old-world feel with creature comforts, a fabulous location and stunning views. A handful of rooms equipped with kitchenettes are ideal for longer stays and families.

Hôtel 7e ArtBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 68 66 66; www.7arthotel.com; 23 rue du Maréchal Joffre; s/d from €91/114; aW)

Hôtel 7e Art puts boutique style within reach of budgeters. The owners got the basics right: great beds, sparkling-clean baths, snappy design and excellent soundproofing (fortunate, given that the hotel sits on the corner of a very large, very busy, very noisy road). Perks like iPod docks in every room far exceed what you’d expect at this price. Breakfast €9.50.

Hôtel MontaigneBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 97 06 03 40; www.hotel-montaigne.eu; 4 rue Montaigne; d from €169; aiWsc)

The Montaigne is bright, vivacious and contemporary with fresh, minimalist decor and soothing beige and burgundy hues. It has a spa with jet pool, hammam (Turkish steambath) and plenty of tantalising self-pampering packages to pick from. Families are well catered for with communicating rooms and kitchenettes.

Villa GarboBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 46 66 00; www.villagarbo-cannes.com; 62 bd d'Alsace; d from €400; aiWc)

For outstanding style and service, check into Villa Garbo. Its spacious suites, all equipped with kitchenettes, are decked out in grey/fuchsia or chocolate/orange and finished to the highest standards (Egyptian-cotton sheets, iPod docking stations, king-size beds, open bar every night etc). The biggest downside of this excellent establishment is its location at a very busy junction.

Hôtel Le CanberraBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 97 06 95 00; www.hotel-cannes-canberra.com; 120 rue d’Antibes; d from €169; aiWs)

This boutique stunner, just a couple of blocks back from La Croisette, is the epitome of Cannes glamour: designer grey rooms with splashes of candy pink, sexy black-marble bathrooms with coloured lighting, heated pool (April to October) in a bamboo-filled garden, intimate atmosphere (there are just 35 rooms) and impeccable service. Rooms overlooking rue d’Antibes are cheapest.

5Eating

Most private beaches have restaurants, particularly delightful on warm sunny days, although you pay for the privilege of eating les pieds dans l'eau (by the sea). Expect to pay around €25 to €30 for a main of grilled fish or meat, or a gourmet salad.

oPhilCatSANDWICHES€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Promenade de la Pantiéro; sandwiches & salads €3.50-6; h7am-7pm; v)

Phillipe and Catherine’s prefab cabin on the waterfront is one of Cannes’ finest lunch dates. Join locals on its sea-view terrace for giant salads, panini and the best pan bagna (a gargantuan bun filled with tuna, onion, red pepper, lettuce and tomato, and dripping in olive oil; €5) on the Riviera. The 'super' version (€5.30) throws anchovies into the mix.

La Boulangerie par Jean-Luc PeléBOULANGERIE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.jeanlucpele.com; 3 rue du 24 août; lunch menus €6-9.50; h7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)

This swanky artisanal bakery by Cannois chocolatier and pâtissier Jean-Luc Pelé casts a whole new spin on eating cheap in Cannes. Creative salads, sandwiches, wraps and bagels – to eat in or out – burst with local flavours and provide the perfect prelude to the utterly sensational cakes and desserts Pelé is best known for.

Gourmets note: macarons, unusually, come in sweet and savoury flavours. Foie gras and fig, anyone?

oBobo BistroMEDITERRANEAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 99 97 33; 21 rue du Commandant André; pizza €12-16, mains €15-20; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, dinner Sun)

Predictably, it's a 'bobo' (bourgeois bohemian) crowd that gathers at this achingly cool bistro in Cannes' fashionable Carré d'Or (Golden Square). Decor is stylishly retro, with attention-grabbing objets d'art like a tableau of dozens of spindles of coloured yarn. Cuisine is local, seasonal and invariably organic: artichoke salad, tuna carpaccio with passionfruit, roasted cod with mash fait masion (homemade).

La Casa di NonnaITALIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 97 06 33 51; 41 rue Hoche; mains €10-15; h8.30am-7pm)

Flowers on the tables, fresh floral decor, Italian food just like an Italian nonna makes and delicious homemade cakes make this hybrid restaurant-tearoom a real hit in Cannes. Be it breakfast, midmorning coffee, lunch or early-evening drinks, Grandma's House is gourmet gold.

New York, New YorkBRASSERIE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 06 78 27; www.nynycannes.com; 1 allée de la Liberté; pizza €12-18, mains €15-32; h8am-2am; Wv)

This trendy grill house scores top billing for its vast, people-watching pavement terrace beneath the glittering white facade of Hôtel Splendid. Its huge burgers, tender steaks, wood-fired pizzas and industrial-chic decor are equally popular with Cannes’ hip crowd. Food is served throughout the day.

Aux Bons EnfantsFRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.aux-bons-enfants.com; 80 rue Meynadier; menus €29, mains €16; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)

A people’s-choice place since 1935, this informal restaurant cooks up regional dishes such as aïoli garni (garlic and saffron mayonnaise served with fish and vegetables), daube (a Provençal beef stew) and rascasse meunière (pan-fried rockfish), all in a convivial atmosphere. No credit cards or reservations.

Petit ParisBRASSERIE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.le-petitparis.fr; 13 rue des Belges; mains €22-36; h8am-midnight; vE)

Little Paris smacks of the French capital city with its quintessential Parisian-brasserie decor. Like any brasserie worth its French fries, it serves food all day as well as sterling breakfasts to suit all suits – pick from Parisian, English, American or Scandinavian – from 8am.

Sea SensFUSION€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 63 36 05 06; www.five-hotel-cannes.com; 1 rue Notre Dame; lunch menus €29 & €39, dinner menus €65-115, mains €23-68; h7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; W)

Perched on the 5th floor of the Five Seas Hotel, this single-Michelin-starred restaurant blends French gastronomy and Asian elegance with panoramic views of Le Suquet and Cannes’ rooftops. Pastry chef Jerôme De Oliveira’s champion desserts are the sweet highlight. Lunch here is excellent value.

MantelMODERN EUROPEAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 39 13 10; www.restaurantmantel.com; 22 rue St-Antoine; menus €35-60, mains €34-45; hnoon-2pm Fri-Mon, 7.30-10pm Thu-Tue)

Discover why Noël Mantel is the hotshot of the Cannois gastronomic scene at his refined old-town restaurant. Service is stellar and the seasonal cuisine divine: try the wonderfully tender glazed veal shank in balsamic vinegar or the original poached octopus bourride-style.

L’AffableMODERN FRENCH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 68 02 09; www.restaurant-laffable.fr; 5 rue Lafontaine; lunch/dinner menus €28/44, mains €26-43; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 7-10.30pm Sat)

Modern French cuisine is showcased at L’Affable. Everything from the ingredients and the cooking to the presentation is done to perfection, whether it be the roasted veal with its vegetable medley, the seared sea bream with white butter and asparagus or the house speciality, the Grand Marnier soufflé, which arrives practically ballooning at your table. Bookings essential.

STARRING AT CANNES

For 12 days in May, all eyes turn to Cannes, centre of the cinematic universe, where 33,000 producers, distributors, directors, publicists, stars and hangers-on descend to buy, sell or promote more than 2000 films. As the premier film event of the year, the Festival de Cannes attracts around 4000 journalists from all over the world.

At the centre of the whirlwind is the colossal, 60,000-sq-metre Palais des Festivals, where the official selections are screened. The palace opened in 1982, replacing the original Palais des Festival – since demolished. The inaugural festival was scheduled for 1 September 1939, as a response to Mussolini’s Fascist-propaganda film festival in Venice, but Hitler’s invasion of Poland brought the festival to an abrupt end. It restarted in 1946 – and the rest is history.

Over the years the festival split into ‘in competition’ and ‘out of competition’ sections. The goal of ‘in competition’ films is the prestigious Palme d’Or, awarded by the jury and its president to the film that best ‘serves the evolution of cinematic art’. Notable winners include Francis Ford Coppola’s Apocalypse Now (1979), Quentin Tarantino’s cult Pulp Fiction (1994) and American activist Michael Moore’s anti-Bush-administration polemic Fahrenheit 9/11 (2004). More recent winners include La Classe (2008), a film by Laurent Cantet about teaching in tough Parisian suburbs; Winter Sleep (2014) by Turkish director Nuri Bilge Ceylan; and Dheepan (2015) by French director Jacques Audiard, which tells the tale of how a former Tamil Tiger from Sri Lanka gains asylum in France.

The vast majority of films are ‘out of competition’. Behind the scenes the Marché du Film (www.marchedufilm.com) sees nearly $1 billion worth of business negotiated in distribution deals. And it’s this hard-core commerce, combined with all the televised Tinseltown glitz, that gives the film festival its special magic.

Tickets to the film festival are off limits to average Joes. What you can get are free tickets to selected individual films, usually after their first screening. Invitations must be picked up on the day at Espace Cannes Cinéphiles ( GOOGLE MAP ; La Malmaison, 47 La Croisette; h9am-5.30pm during festival) and are limited.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Bars around the Carré d'Or (Golden Square) – the area bordered by rue Commandant André, rue des Frères Pradignac, rue du Batéguier and rue du Dr Gérard Monod – tend to be young, trendy and nightlife busy. For a more sophisticated atmosphere, try the beach or top hotel bars. Pick up the free monthly Le Mois à Cannes at the tourist office for full event listings.

Going out in Cannes is taken very seriously: dress to impress if you'd like to get into the most sought-after clubs and events.

Armani CaffèCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 99 44 05; 42 bd de la Croisette; h8.30am-8pm)

The alfresco cafe of Italian fashion-design house Armani is predictably chic, stylish and full of panache. Sit beneath taupe parasols in a prettily manicured garden and enjoy the comings and goings of La Croisette over a chilled glass of prosecco (€10). Salads, pasta and panini too.

Sun 7 BarCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.sun7cannes.com; 5 rue du Dr Gérard Monod; h5pm-5am; W)

An unpretentious, happening place, Sun 7 attracts a pretty young crowd keen to knock back a few drinks and shake their stuff at the weekend. It’s more laid-back on week nights. Find the week's events chalked on the blackboard outside.

JW GrillLOUNGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 99 70 92; 50 bd de la Croisette; h11am-11pm)

This dazzling white lounge bar and grill with designer sofas facing out to sea is possibly the most beautiful on the Croisette. Come dusk, indulge in a €16 glass of Champagne and revel in the chic five-star location. There's food too (mains €28 to €46). Find the grill on the ground floor of the JW Marriott hotel.

Le BâoliCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 43 03 43; www.lebaoli.com; Port Pierre Canto, bd de la Croisette; h8pm-6am Thu-Sat)

This is Cannes’ coolest, trendiest and most selective night spot – so selective, in fact, that your entire posse might not get in unless you’re dressed to the nines. It's part club, part restaurant, so one way to ensure you’ll get in is to book a table and make a night of it. Located at the eastern end of La Croisette.

Les MarchesCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 39 77 21; www.lesmarches-club.com; Palais des Festivals, 1 bd de la Croisette; h8pm-6am May-Sep, 11.30pm-6am Fri & Sat Oct-Apr)

Few hobnobbing spots in Cannes are as sweet as the rooftop terrace of this chic club in Palais des Festivals.

Gotha ClubCLUB

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 45 11 11; place Franklin Roosvelt, Casino Palm Beach; cover €25-50; hmidnight-May & dawn Jul & Aug)

Only open in May during the film festival and again in July and August, this club is a hot ticket in DJ land. Bringing together some of most happening names in music with a spectacular setting at the seafaring end of La Croisette, Gotha is a glitzy VIP favourite. Door policy is tight: no guys without girls and only fabulous-looking people.

DON'T MISS

COOK YOUR OWN LUNCH

Part restaurant, part cooking school is probably the best way to describe Les Apprentis Gourmets ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 38 78 76; www.lesapprentisgourmets.fr; 6 rue Teisseire), a boutique kitchen in the heart of Cannes. Cooking classes (€32 to €74) last one to two hours and focus on themes, or meals to take away at the end of the class. Best up is the express lunch (€17, 30 minutes), during which you cook one plat (main course), to be gobbled up afterwards around a shared table with your fellow cooks on the mezzanine above the kitchen. The school also hosts cooking classes for children aged six to 12 years (€32).

3Entertainment

Cinéma Les ArcadesCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://arcadescannes.cine.allocine.fr; 77 rue Félix Faure; tickets €9.50)

Catch a movie in English.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

TASTEFUL SHOPPING

When it comes to shopping with taste, forget Chanel, Gucci and the gaggle of other designer fashion houses strutting their desirable stuff down Cannes' catwalk-like streets.

The insider scoop is Fromagerie Ceneri ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 39 63 68; www.fromagerie-ceneri.com; 22 rue Meynadier; h10am-6pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, 8.30am-12.30pm Sun) – the only place in Cannes to shop for cheese and dairy products. With cowbells strung from the wooden ceiling and a stunning array of cheeses, this master fromager-affineur (cheesemonger and ripener), in business since 1968, is a rare and precious breed on the Riviera. Its selection of chèvre (goat's cheese) from Provence is second to none, as is its cheeseboard from elsewhere in France.

For local folklore, hit Marché Forville ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; rue du Marché Forville; h7am-1pm Tue-Sun, 8am-6pm Mon), Cannes' busy food market, a couple of blocks back from the port. It dates to 1934 and remains one of the region's key markets. On Monday the fresh fruit, veg, fish and meat stalls are replaced by an all-day brocante (flea market).

Simultaneously indulge your inner fashionista and your inner foodie with a pair of chocolate stiletto heels from JP Paci ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.paci-chocolatier.com; 28 rue Hoche; h9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat ). Artisan chocolatier Jean-Patrice also crafts perfectly formed rounds of Camembert cheese, ravioli squares, red roses, tool boxes and flowerpots out of chocolate – all to sweet realist perfection.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 99 84 22; www.cannes-destination.fr; 1 bd de la Croisette; h9am-8pm Jun-Aug, 10am-7pm Sep-May)

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Transport Alpes-Maritimes (TAM) runs express services to Nice (bus 200, €1.50, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes), Nice-Côte d'Azur Airport (bus 210, €20, 50 minutes, half-hourly), Mougins (bus 600, €1.50, 20 minutes, every 20 minutes) and Grasse (bus 600, €1.50, 45 minutes). City bus Navette City Palm (www.palmbus.fr; €1.50) follows a loop that takes in the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; place Cornut Gentille), La Croisette, rue d’Antibes and the train station. It has no set stops; just flag it down as it passes.

Bicycle

Mistral LocationCAR RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 39 33 60; www.mistral-location.com; 4 rue Georges Clémenceau)

Rents out bicycles/scooters/cars from €18/30/74 per day.

Car

Find all the big car-hire companies at the train station.

Street parking is limited to two hours in the centre. Car parks such as Parking Croisette ( GOOGLE MAP ; Port Canto, 1 bd de la Croisette), Parking Forville-Suquet ( GOOGLE MAP ; 7 rue Pastour) or the train station's Parking Gare SNCF ( GOOGLE MAP ; 1 rue Jean Jaurès) have no restriction but charge a fee (first hour free, then €2.70 per hour).

Train

Cannes' gleaming white train station is well connected with other towns along the coast.

ANice €5.90, 40 minutes, every 15 minutes

AAntibes €3, 12 minutes, at least twice hourly

AMonaco €9.60, one hour, at least twice hourly

ASt-Raphaël €7.40, 30 minutes, every 20 minutes

AMarseille €31.30, two hours, half-hourly

Îles de Lérins

The two islands making up Lérins – Île Ste-Marguerite and Île St-Honorat – lie within a 20-minute boat ride of Cannes. Tiny and traffic free, they’re oases of peace and tranquillity, a world away from the hustle and bustle of the Riviera.

Camping is forbidden, and there are no hotels and only a couple of eating options, so bring a picnic and a good supply of drinking water.

Boats for the islands leave Cannes from quai des Îles, at the end of quai Laubeuf on the western side of the harbour. Riviera Lines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 98 71 31; www.riviera-lines.com; quai Laubeuf) runs ferries to Île Ste-Marguerite (adult/child €13.50/9 return), while Compagnie Planaria ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cannes-ilesdelerins.com; quai Laubeuf) operates boats to Île St-Honorat (adult/child €16.50/8 return).

In St-Raphaël, Les Bateaux de St-Raphaël also runs excursions to Île Ste-Marguerite (adult/child €22/12 return).

THE MAN IN THE IRON MASK

The Man in the Iron Mask was imprisoned by Louis XIV (r 1661–1715) in the fortress on Île Ste-Marguerite from around 1687 until 1698, when he was transferred to the Bastille in Paris. Only the king knew the identity of the man behind the mask, prompting a rich pageant of myth and legend to be woven around the ill-fated inmate.

More than 60 suggested identities have been showered on the masked prisoner, among them the Duke of Monmouth (actually beheaded under James II), the Comte de Vermandois (son of Louis XIV, said to have died from smallpox in 1683) and the king's brother (a twin or an illegitimate older brother). Some theorists claim the Man in the Iron Mask was actually a woman.

Île Ste-Marguerite

Covered in sweet-smelling eucalyptus and pine, Ste-Marguerite makes a wonderful day trip from Cannes. Its shores are a succession of castaway beaches ideal for picnics, and there are numerous walking trails.

The island served as a strategic defence post for centuries. Fort Royal (%04 93 38 55 26; Île Ste-Marguerite; adult/child €6/3; h10.30am-1.15pm & 2.15-5.45pm Tue-Sun), built in the 17th century by Richelieu and later fortified by Vauban, today houses the Musée de la Mer, with exhibits on the island’s Graeco-Roman history, artefacts from the numerous shipwrecks littering the shores and a small aquarium focusing on Mediterranean fauna and flora.

You can also visit the cells of the former state prison, where the most famous inmate was the Man in the Iron Mask, and walk around the compound, which boasts grand views of the coast.

Île St-Honorat

Forested St-Honorat was once the site of a powerful monastery founded in the 5th century. Now it’s home to 25 Cistercian monks who own the island but welcome visitors. At 1.5km by 400m, St-Honorat is the smallest (and most southerly) of the two Lérins islands.

The Monastère Fortifié, guarding the island’s southern shores, is all that remains of the original monastery. Built in 1073 to protect the monks from pirate attacks, its entrance stood 4m above ground level and was accessible only by ladder (later replaced by the stone staircase evident today). The elegant arches of the vaulted prayer cloister on the 1st floor date from the 15th century, and there’s a magnificent panorama of the coast from the donjon terrace.

In front of the donjon is the walled, 19th-century Abbaye Notre Dame de Lérins, built around a medieval cloister. In the souvenir shop you can buy the 50%-alcohol Lérina, a ruby-red, lemon-yellow or pea-green liqueur concocted from 44 different herbs. The monks also produce wine from their small vineyard.

Antibes-Juan-les-Pins

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With its boat-bedecked port, 16th-century ramparts and narrow cobblestone streets festooned with flowers, lovely Antibes is the quintessential Mediterranean town. Picasso, Max Ernst and Nicolas de Staël were captivated by Antibes, as was a restless Graham Greene (1904–91), who settled here with his lover, Yvonne Cloetta, from 1966 until the year before his death.

Greater Antibes embraces Cap d’Antibes, an exclusive green cape studded with luxurious mansions, and the modern beach resort of Juan-les-Pins. The latter is known for its 2km-long sandy beach and its nightlife, a legacy of the sizzling 1920s when Americans swung into town with their jazz music and oh-so-brief swimsuits.

Antibes

1Sights

1Cathédrale d'AntibesD3

2Musée Peynet et du Dessin HumoristiqueC3

3Musée PicassoD3

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Plage de la GravetteD2

4Sleeping

5Hôtel La PlaceB4

6Le Relais du PostillonB3

5Eating

7Big MoustacheB4

8Fromagerie L'EtableC3

9La BadianeB4

10La Ferme au Foie GrasD2

11L'Atelier Jean-Luc PeléC3

12Le Broc en BoucheD3

13NacionaleC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

14Balade en ProvenceD3

15Brasserie Le ClémenceauC3

16Drinkers ClubD3

7Shopping

17Marché ProvençalD3

1Sights & Activities

For a quick cool-down between sights, take a refreshing dash through the artsy fountains on place du Général de Gaulle.

Musée PicassoMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.antibes-juanlespins.com; Château Grimaldi, 4 rue des Cordiers; adult/concession €6/3; h10am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Wed & Fri Jul & Aug)

Picasso himself said: ‘If you want to see the Picassos from Antibes, you have to see them in Antibes'. The 14th-century Château Grimaldi was Picasso’s studio from July to December 1946 and now houses an excellent collection of his works and fascinating photos of him. The sheer variety – lithographs, paintings, drawings and ceramics – shows how versatile and curious an artist Picasso was. The museum also has a room dedicated to Nicolas de Staël, another painter who adopted Antibes as home.

oBastion St-JaumeMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; quai Henri Rambaud; h10am-11pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Sep-May)F

Stroll along the rampart walkway, Promenade des Arts, to the harbour, where luxury yachts jostle for the limelight with Nomade (2010), an 8m-tall sculpture of a man looking out to sea. The work of Catalan artist Jaume Plensa, the mirage-like piece is built from thousands of white letters and is lit at night – a magnificent sight. It squats on the terrace of the Bastion St-Jaume, the site of a Roman temple, a 17th-century fortified tower and, until 1985, a shipyard.

Vieil AntibesHISTORIC QUARTER

Old Antibes is a quaint mix of boutiques and restaurants planted charmingly on ancient squares and alleyways within sturdy city walls. The Cathédrale d'Antibes ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; rue de la Paroisse), built on the site of an ancient Greek temple, has an ochre neoclassical facade; its tall, square Romanesque bell tower dates from the 12th century. The Marché Provençal is the best place to be in the mornings, and views from the sea walls of urban Nice (spot the airport runway) and snowy alpine peaks beyond are superb.

Fort CarréMONUMENT

( GOOGLE MAP ; rte du Bord de Mer; guided tour only adult/child €3/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun Jul & Aug, to 4.30pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun)

The impregnable 16th-century Fort Carré, enlarged by Vauban in the 17th century, dominates the approach to Antibes from Nice. It served as a border defence post until 1860, when Nice, until then in Italian hands, became French. Tours depart half-hourly; some guides speak English.

Musée Peynet et du Dessin HumoristiqueMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place Nationale; adult/concession €3/1.50; h10am-noon & 2-6pm Tue-Sun)

More than 300 humorous pictures, cartoons and costumes by Antibes-born cartoonist Raymond Peynet, as well as brilliant temporary exhibitions.

Plage de la GravetteSWIMMING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; quai Henri Rambaud)

Right in the centre of Antibes, you’ll find Plage de la Gravette, a small patch of sand by the remparts (ramparts).

Plage de la SalisSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP )

This beach, with unbeatable views of old Antibes and the Alps, is 20 minutes from Antibes.

Pointe BaconSNORKELLING, SWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP )

The stretch of coast between Plage de la Salis and Cap d’Antibes, especially the section around Pointe Bacon, is fringed with rocky coves, where snorkellers frolic in clear waters.

Plage de la GaroupeSWIMMING

( GOOGLE MAP )

This stretch of Cap d'Antibes was first raked clear of seaweed in 1922 by Cole Porter and American artist Gerald Murphy to create a sandy beach. Its golden sand is shared today by a small public beach overlooked by the excellent-value terrace of Le Rocher (%04 93 67 51 36; 925 chemin de la Garoupe, Plage de la Garoupe; mains €17-22 ) and the private Plage Keller (with white-tablecloth dining, and sun loungers on a jetty).

DON'T MISS

CAP D'ANTIBES: A WALK AROUND BILLIONAIRES BAY

You feel like a shrunken Alice in Wonderland on this select peninsula: larger-than-life villas and parasol pine trees loom high above you at every turn, and the frenzied sound of cicadas provides an unearthly soundtrack in summer. A walk around 'Billionaires Bay' – naturally majestic and packed with millionaires' mansions – is a Riviera highlight.

The easiest way to access the lush green cape is aboard bus 2 from Antibes bus station to the 'Phare' bus stop. From here, cross the road and follow in pilgrims' footsteps along ave Malespine (bear left where the road forks) and route du Phare uphill to Chapelle de la Garoupe. The tiny chapel (closed for renovation at the time of writing), filled with poignant offerings from fishing families, crowns the highest point of Cap d'Antibes. Sweeping views of the coastline, from St-Tropez to Italy, mesmerise. The neighbouring Phare de la Garoupe, a square brick lighthouse with scarlet beacon, can't be visited.

Panorama celebrated, walk back downhill to bd du Cap and pick up chemin de la Garoupe. A 10-minute walk past high-walled properties and towering pines brings you down to the bright-turquoise, crystal-clear water of the pretty, relentlessly popular Plage de la Garoupe. At the far end of the sandy beach, pick up the signposted Sentier Littoral (coastal footpath) that ducks and dives along the shoreline to Eilenroc (1¼ hours, 3.2km) on the cape's southern tip. The path is partly paved, very rocky in places and riddled with steep steps and the occasional scary drop (wear decent shoes). It provides a superb lookout on the rugged coastline and is memorable for its many tiny sun decks and picnic spots, considerately crafted into the stone. Weave your way around the cape, past solitary fishers tucked into the rocks and knowing locals lunching with the five-star view, until you reach the start of chemin des Douaniers, an inland-bound footpath wedged between the high stone walls of Villa Eilenroc and neighbouring Château de la Croë. Famously home to the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson in the late 1930s, the pearly white Victorian-style chateau was originally built for an English aristocrat in 1927 and renovated most recently by its current owner, Russian billionaire Roman Abramovic.

Duck through the doorway at the foot of chemin des Douaniers and continue for another 800m along the signposted footpath to Villa Eilenroc (%04 93 67 74 33; av Mrs Beaumont, Cap d'Antibes; adult/child €2/free; h2-5.30pm Wed & 1st & 3rd Sat of month). The villa, designed in 1867 by Charles Garnier for a Dutchman who reversed the name of his wife, Cornélie, to come up with the villa's name, has clearly seen better days – its scantily furnished interior lacks its history's glamour. But a stroll around the 11-hectare park with rosery, olive grove and aromatic garden goes some way towards evoking the beauty of the villa's belle époque heyday. On the shore below the villa, Plage de Galets is a bijou pebble cove well worth a dip and/or sun-kissed siesta. From Eilenroc, it is a five-minute walk along av Mrs Beaumont to the 'Fontaine' bus stop on bd JF Kennedy.

The southwestern tip of Cap d'Antibes, also linked by bus 2 from Antibes, is graced with the legendary Hôtel du Cap Eden Roc. Dating from 1870, it hit the big time just after WWI when a literary salon held here one summer (previous guests had come for the winter season only) was attended by Hemingway, Picasso et al. The icing on the cake was the immortalisation of the hotel (as the thinly disguised Hôtel des Étrangers) by F Scott Fitzgerald in his novel Tender Is the Night (1934).

In the centre of Cap d'Antibes, the serene Jardin Botanique de la Villa Thuret (%04 97 21 25 00; www6.sophia.inra.fr/jardin_thuret; 90 chemin Raymond ; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep, 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri Oct-May) is a 3.5-hectare botanical garden created in 1856 and showcasing 2500 species. It provides the perfect opportunity to study the sun-rich cape's lush and invariably exotic flora up close.

zFestivals & Events

July is the party month in Antibes and Juan-les-Pins. The headline event is Juan’s jazz festival, but a number of fringe music festivals are also picking up.

Jazz à JuanMUSIC

(www.jazzajuan.com)

This major festival, celebrated in mid-July in Juan-les-Pins, has been running for more than 50 years. Every jazz great has performed here, and the festival continues to attract big music names.

4Sleeping

Relais International de la JeunesseHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 61 34 40; www.clajsud.fr; 272 bd de la Garoupe; dm €20; hApr-Oct; Wc)

With sea views the envy of neighbouring millionaires, this basic-but-friendly hostel is particularly popular with ‘yachties’ looking for their next job in Antibes’ port. Rates include sheets and breakfast. Daily lock-out 11am to 5pm.

oHôtel La PlaceHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 97 21 03 11; www.la-place-hotel.com; 1 av du 24 août; d €155-175; aiW)

It's rare to find contemporary chic next to a city bus station, but The Place does it awfully well. Its 14 rooms are spacious, stylish and dressed in soothing taupe and aubergine or aniseed green. Three have bijou balconies, and breakfast (€13) is served in the airy lounge. No lift.

Hôtel La JabotteB&B€€

(%04 93 61 45 89; www.jabotte.com; 13 av Max Maurey; d €120-170; aiW)

A hotel with a chambre d’hôte (B&B) feel, La Jabotte is 50m from the sea. Ten Provençal rooms look out onto an exquisite patio where breakfast is served on warm days. From Vieil Antibes it's a 1.5km walk (20 minutes) towards Plage de la Salis along coastal blvd James Wyllie.

Le Relais du PostillonHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 34 20 77; www.relaisdupostillon.com; 8 rue Championnet; d €83-149; hreception 7.30am-11pm; aW)

Housed in a 17th-century coach house, great-value Postillon is a charmer with its modern rooms, boutique decor and ground-floor cafe-bar with winter fireplace and summer terrace. Breakfast €9.

5Eating

Irish and Brit-style pubs and bars serving English breakfasts and American burgers line bd Aguillon. By the water on quai des Pêcheurs fishers sell their morning's catch from 9am to 12.30pm. For picnic goodies, hit Antibes' Fromagerie l'Etable ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 rue Sade; h8am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun ) for cheese and deli products, and dazzling morning market Marché Provençal (Market; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cours Masséna; h7am-1pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun, daily Jul & Aug) for everything else.

oL'Atelier Jean-Luc PeléSANDWICHES€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 92 95 78 21; 27 rue de la République; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun )

Normandy-born, Cannes-adopted pastry chef Jean-Luc Pelé knows how to please. His creatively filled bagels and wraps (€5), salads and quiches (€9.50 with drink and dessert) to take away form the perfect gourmet picnic. Equally delicious are Pelé's nut and olive breads, jumbo macarons, cakes and chocolate (did we mention the chocolate fountain on one wall?).

La Ferme au Foie GrasDELI€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.vente-foie-gras.net; 35 rue Aubernon; sandwiches €4-7; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun)

Now, this is our idea of what a good sandwich should be like: filled with smoked duck breast, onion chutney or fig jam, truffle cheese and fresh salad. And many people seem to think the same: a queue snakes down from the tiny counter of The Foie Gras Farm every lunchtime.

La BadianeFUSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 34 45 41; 3 traverse du 24 août; lunch menus €17-18.50, mains €13-15; hlunch Mon-Fri)

Salmon tartare (raw and marinated), fresh pesto lasagne and scrumptious quiches are among the seasonal dishes cooked up with passion and care at this trendy lunch address. Find it on a pedestrian street – one of the finest in Antibes for lunchtime dining – behind the bus station.

Big MoustacheBURGERS€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 34 31 20; 30 rue Fourmillière; burgers €15; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sat )

Artisanal bread, homemade sauces, veg 'fresh from the earth' and the pick of epicurean cheeses go into the gourmet burgers at Big Moustache. There are generally four or five meaty choices and two veggie burgers chalked on the ardoise (blackboard) each day, always with plenty of rocket, spinach leaves and other freshly picked seasonal goodies. Kids menu €6.

oNacionaleINTERNATIONAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 61 77 30; www.restaurant-nacional-antibes.com; 61 place Nationale; tapas €9-26, mains €19-29; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun)

'Beef & Wine' is the strapline of this contemporary wine-bar-styled space, popular for its gourmet burgers with foie gras, beefy steaks in pepper or port sauce and other grilled meats. The in-crowd adores it for aperitifs and tapas. Don't be put off by its location in busy place Nationale: it has a beautiful walled patio garden secreted away out back.

Le Broc en BoucheMODERN FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 34 75 60; 8 rue des Palmiers; mains €22-28; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Thu-Mon)

No two chairs, tables or lights are the same at this lovely bistro. Every item has been lovingly sourced from antique shops and car-boot sales, giving the place a sophisticated but cosy vintage feel. The charming Flo and Fred have put the same level of care and imagination into their cuisine, artfully preparing Provençal and modern French fare.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Pedestrian bd d’Aguillon heaves with merry Anglophones falling out of the busy ‘English’ and ‘Irish’ pubs.

oBalade en ProvenceABSINTHE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 25 cours Masséna; h6pm-2am)

Flirt with the green fairy at Balade en Provence, complete with original 1860 zinc bar, a few round tables and all the accessories (four-tapped water fountain, sugar cubes etc).

Drinkers ClubBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 12 rue Aubernon; h4.30pm-2.30am Mon-Fri, from 1pm Sat & Sun; W)

The in-crowd flops off the beach (or yacht they're crewing on) and onto the pavement terrace of this buzzing lounge bar for early-evening cocktails, wine and bruschetta (€10). This is also the hot spot to catch sports matches screened on TV, DJs and live music.

Brasserie Le ClémenceauCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 24 rue Georges Clémenceau; h7.30am-8pm)

For breakfast or un café (a coffee) in the morning sun, this local-loved cafe with pavement terrace arranged around an age-old stone fountain hits the spot every time. Fruit milkshakes, smoothies and a down-to-earth lunch menu (€13.50) keep it busy all day.

La Siesta ClubCLUB

(%04 93 33 31 31; 2000 rte du Bord de Mer; admission €20; h7pm-5am Thu-Sat mid-Jun–early Sep)

This legendary establishment is famous up and down the coast for its summer beachside nightclub and all-night dancing under the stars. Find La Siesta 6km north of Vieil Antibes on the D6098.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 22 10 60 10; www.antibesjuanlespins.com; 42 av Robert Soleau; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Sep-May)

By Antibes train station; excellent source of tourist information and guided walking tours of Old Antibes and 'Painters on the French Riviera' (adult/child €7/3.50).

Accueil Touristique du Vieil AntibesTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 93 34 65 65; 32 bd d’Aguillon; h10am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, to 5pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun)

Old-town info point, steps from the water.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

The Nice–Cannes service (www.envibus.fr; bus 200, €1.50) stops by the tourist office. Local bus services (€1) for Opio, Vence and St-Paul de Vence leave from the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 89 87 72 01; place Guynemer; hticket office 9am-12.30pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat).

Car

Vieil Antibes is mostly pedestrianised; park outside the centre and walk. There are several car parks along the port on av de Verdun.

Train

Antibes’ train station is on the main line between Nice (€3.70, 30 minutes, five hourly) and Cannes (€3, 10 minutes, five hourly).

WORTH A TRIP

VALLAURIS

Picasso (1881–1973) discovered ceramics in the small potters’ village of Vallauris in 1947. Attracted by its artistic vibe, he settled in the village between 1948 and 1955, during which time he produced some 4000 ceramics. He also completed his last great political composition, the Chapelle La Guerre et La Paix (War and Peace Chapel), a collection of dramatic murals painted on plywood panels and tacked to the walls of a disused 12th-century chapel, now the Musée National Picasso 'La Guerre et la Paix' (%04 93 64 71 83; www.musee-picasso-vallauris.fr; place de la Libération; adult/child €4/free; h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-12.15pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Sep-Jun).

Picasso left Vallauris another gift: a dour bronze figure clutching a sheep, L’Homme au Mouton, now on place Paul Isnard (adjoining place de la Libération). But his biggest legacy was the revival of the ceramics industry in Vallauris, an activity that might have died out had it not been for the ‘Picasso effect’.

Biot

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This 15th-century hilltop village was once an important pottery-manufacturing centre specialising in earthenware oil and wine containers. Metal containers brought an end to this, but Biot is still active in handicraft production, especially glassmaking. The dynamic tourist office (%04 93 65 78 00; www.biot.fr; 46 rue St-Sébastien; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun) has various itineraries to discover this arts heritage (downloadable as the Visit Biot app).

The village was also the one-time headquarters (1209–1387) of the Knights Templar, then the Knights of Malta: the picturesque place des Arcades, dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, is a reminder of this illustrious past.

At the foot of the village, the Verrerie de Biot (www.verreriebiot.com; chemin des Combes; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Sun) produces bubbled glass by rolling molten glass into baking soda; bubbles from the chemical reaction are then trapped by a second layer of glass. Watch skilled glass-blowers at work and browse the adjacent art galleries and shop.

The Musée National Fernand Léger (www.musee-fernandleger.fr; chemin du Val de Pome; adult/child €5.50/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Apr), 1.5km south, presents Fernand Léger’s work and life: his brush with cubism, his ongoing interest in architecture, society and cinema, and the influence of his stays in America. Bus 10 between Antibes and Biot stops near the museum (at stop Musée Fernand Léger).

The Arrière-Pays

The ‘coast’ in Côte d’Azur is what many people come to see, but the arrière-pays (hinterland) has a charm of its own. Less crowded and incredibly varied, it has something for everyone, from keen walkers to culture vultures and foodies.

WORTH A TRIP

A CULTURED TRIO

Sprawling seaside towns like Villeneuve-Loubet, Cagnes-sur-Mer and Le Cannet lack charm and can overwhelm, but a trio of cultural highlights justify the detour. Le Domaine des Collettes, today the evocative Musée Renoir (www.cagnes-tourisme.com; chemin des Colettes, Cagnes-sur-Mer; adult/child €6/free; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Oct-Mar, to 6pm Apr & May), was home and studio to an arthritis-crippled Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1841–1919), who lived here with his wife and three sons from 1907 until his death. Works of his on display include Les Grandes Baigneuses (The Women Bathers; 1892), a reworking of the 1887 original, and rooms are dotted with photographs and personal possessions. The magnificent olive and citrus groves are as much an attraction as the museum itself. Many visitors set up their own easel to paint.

Equally wonderful is Musée Escoffier de l’Art Culinaire (Escoffier Museum of Culinary Arts; fondation-escoffier.org; 3 rue Auguste Escoffier, Villeneuve-Loubet; adult/child €5/free; h10am-noon & 2-7pm Wed & Sat, 2-7pm Sun-Tue, Thu & Fri Jul & Aug, 2-6pm Sep, Oct & Dec-Jun), which retraces the history of modern gastronomy. Escoffier (1846–1935), inventor of the pêche Melba and dried potato among other things, was France’s first great chef and a celebrity amongst Europe’s well heeled.

The third in the cultured trio is Le Cannet's Musée Bonnard (%04 93 94 06 06; www.museebonnard.fr; 16 bd Sadi Carnot , Le Cannet; adult/concession €5/3.50; h10am-8pm Fri-Sun, Tue & Wed, to 9pm Thu Jul & Aug, to 6pm Tue-Sun Sep-Jun), at home in a restored belle époque villa with a striking contemporary extension. Instantly recognisable by their intense colour, the works of neo-impressionist painter Pierre Bonnard (1867–1947) form the backbone of the museum's permanent collection. Bonnard arrived in Le Cannet fresh from Paris in 1910 and lived in a seafront villa with his wife, Martha, until his death. It was in Le Cannet that Bonnard painted his best works, including several landscapes of St-Tropez, Antibes and other Riviera resorts.

St-Paul de Vence

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Once upon a time, St-Paul de Vence was a small medieval village atop a hill looking out to sea. Then came the likes of Chagall and Picasso in the postwar years, followed by showbiz stars such as Yves Montand and Roger Moore, and St-Paul shot to fame. The village is now home to dozens of art galleries as well as the exceptional Fondation Maeght.

The village’s tiny cobbled lanes get overwhelmingly crowded in high season – come early or late to beat the rush.

1Sights & Activities

The VillageHISTORIC QUARTER

Strolling the narrow streets is how most visitors pass time in St-Paul. The village has been beautifully preserved and the panoramas from the ramparts are stunning. The main artery, rue Grande, is lined with art galleries. The highest point in the village is occupied by the Église Collégiale; the adjoining Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs was redecorated by Belgian artist Folon.

Many more artists lived in or passed through St-Paul de Vence, among them Soutine, Léger, Cocteau, Matisse and Chagall. The latter is buried with his wife, Vava, in the cemetery at the village’s southern end (immediately to the right as you enter). The dynamic tourist office runs a series of informative, themed guided tours (1½ hours, adult/child €5/free).

Across from the entrance to the fortified village, the pétanque pitch, where many a star has had a spin, is the hub of village life. The tourist office rents out balls (€2) and organises one-hour pétanque lessons (€5 per person, reserve in advance).

Fondation MaeghtMUSEUM

(www.fondation-maeght.com; 623 chemin des Gardettes; adult/child €15/10; h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Jun)

Created in 1964 by Aimé and Marguerite Maeght, this fabulous museum has one of Europe's largest collections of 20th-century art. Works are exhibited on a rotating basis; along with the excellent temporary exhibitions, this means you rarely see the same piece twice. The museum is 500m downhill from the village, in a building designed by Josep Lluís Sert. Itself a masterpiece, it integrates a Giacometti courtyard, Miró sculptures across terraced gardens, coloured-glass windows by Braque and mosaics by Chagall and Tal-Coat.

4Sleeping & Eating

Les Vergers de Saint-PaulBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€

(%04 93 32 94 24; www.vergersdesaintpaul.com; 940 rte de la Colle; d/t €160/190; aWs)

This elegant hotel has something of a belle époque feel about it, with the art deco stripy fabrics, parquet floors, resplendent white facade and wrought-iron balconies. There is a splendid pool too, with assorted loungers. If you can, snag a room in the main building rather than those in the annexe. Breakfast €14.

oLes Cabanes d’OrionB&B€€€

(%06 75 45 18 64; www.orionbb.com; Impasse des Peupliers, 2436 chemin du Malvan; d from €260; Wsc)

Dragonflies flit above water lilies in the emerald-green swimming pool (filtered naturally), while guests slumber amid a chorus of frogs and cicadas in luxurious cedar-wood treehouses perched in the trees at this enchanting, ecofriendly B&B. Children are well catered for with mini-cabanes (cabins) in two of the treehouses. There is a minimum three-night stay from April to October.

In winter Orion offers special cocooning packages, with sauna sessions and gourmet baskets complete with organic hot meals and champagne for a cosy night in.

La Colombe d’OrHOTEL€€€

(%04 93 32 80 02; www.la-colombe-dor.com; place de Gaulle; d €250-430, mains €19-55; hrestaurant noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm late Dec-Oct; Ws)

This world-famous inn could double as the Fondation Maeght’s annexe: The Golden Dove was the party HQ of dozens of 20th-century artists (Chagall, Braque, Matisse, Picasso etc) who paid for their meals in kind, resulting in an extraordinary private art collection. Rooms are strung with unique pieces, as are the dining room and garden.

Hotel guests get access to the lovely pool, crowned by a Calder mobile.

oLe TilleulMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 93 32 80 36; www.restaurant-letilleul.com; place du Tilleul; lunch menus €25 & €29, mains €18-25; h8.30am-10.30pm; v)

Considering its location on the remparts, it could have easily plumbed the depths of a typical tourist trap; instead, divine and beautifully presented dishes grace your table at Le Tilleul and the all-French wine list includes a generous selection of options by the glass. Sit under the shade of a big lime-blossom tree. Breakfast and afternoon tea too.

8Getting There & Around

St-Paul is served by Lignes d’Azur (www.lignesdazur.com) bus 400 running between Nice (€1.50, one hour, at least hourly) and Vence (€1.50, 15 minutes). The town is closed to traffic, but there are several car parks (€2.70 per hour) surrounding the village.

Vence

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Despite its well-preserved medieval centre, visitors often skip Vieux Vence altogether to head straight to Matisse’s otherworldly Chapelle du Rosaire. Yet Vence deserves more than a flying visit. It’s worth spending a little time here, if only to appreciate its comparatively quiet medieval streets and enjoy some of its gastronomic talent. A fruit-and-veg market fills place du Jardin several mornings a week, with antiques on Wednesday.

1Sights

oChapelle du RosaireARCHITECTURE

(Rosary Chapel; %04 93 58 03 26; 466 av Henri Matisse; adult/child €6/3; h2-5.30pm Mon, Wed & Sat, 10-11.30am & 2-5.30pm Tue & Thu mid-Dec–mid-Nov )

An ailing Henri Matisse moved to Vence in 1943, to be cared for by his former nurse and model, Monique Bourgeois, who'd since become a Dominican nun. She persuaded him to design this extraordinary chapel for her community. The artist designed everything from the decor to the altar and the priest vestments. From the road, you can see the blue-and-white ceramic roof tiles, wrought-iron cross and bell tower. Inside, light floods through the glorious blue, green and yellow stained-glass windows.

The colours respectively symbolise water/the sky, plants/life, the sun/God’s presence; the back windows display Matisse’s famous seaweed motif, those on the side a stylised, geometric leaf-like shape.

A line image of the Virgin Mary and child is painted on white ceramic tiles on the northern interior wall. The western wall is dominated by the bolder Chemin de Croix (Stations of the Cross). St Dominic overlooks the altar. Matisse also designed the chapel’s stone altar, candlesticks and cross. The beautiful priests’ vestments are displayed in an adjoining hall.

Vieux VenceHISTORIC QUARTER

Much of the historical centre dates back to the 13th century. The Romanesque cathedral on the eastern side of the square was built in the 11th century on the site of an old Roman temple. It contains Chagall’s mosaic of Moses (1979), appropriately watching over the baptismal font.

The daring Fondation Émile Hugues (www.museedevence.com; 2 place du Frêne; adult/child €8/free; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun), with its wonderful 20th-century art exhibitions, inside imposing Château de Villeneuve, is a nice contrast to Vence’s historic quarter.

4Sleeping

oLe 2B&B€€

(%04 93 24 42 58; www.le2avence.fr; 2 rue des Portiques; d incl breakfast €105-165; aW)

This ‘bed & bistro’, as it’s tagged itself, is a welcome addition to staid Vence. Nicolas and his family have turned this medieval town house into a hip new establishment offering four very modern rooms and a pocket-sized cellar featuring local musicians one night a week. Value and atmosphere guaranteed.

oLa Maison du FrêneB&B€€€

(%04 93 24 37 83; www.lamaisondufrene.com; 1 place du Frêne; d €185; hFeb-Dec; aW)

This arty guesthouse is quite astonishing. Yes, that Niki de Saint Phalle is an original. And yes, the César too. It’s an essential sleepover for true art lovers, if only to enjoy the superb rooms with their classic or contemporary looks and original works. Owners and avid art collectors Thierry and Guy are a mine of information on the local art scene.

5Eating

L'en Champs ThéCAFE€

(%09 83 31 77 33; www.lenchampsthe.fr; 1 place du Peyra; mains €10-15; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun)

A play on the French word 'enchanté' (meaning 'delighted, pleased'), L'en Champs Thé is a sparky family-run tearoom and organic épicerie (grocery) with summer terrace on a car-free old-town square. Cuisine is seasonal, sun-inspired and fait maison (homemade) – as Richard, the apron-clad 'fée maison' (house fairy) will proudly tell you as he dashes between tables.

Le Michel AngeMEDITERRANEAN€

(%04 93 58 32 56; 1 place Godeau; 2-/3-course menus €17/22, mains €14; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun)

With tables beneath a leafy tree on a fountain-clad square behind the cathedral, this casual eatery gets top billing among locals. Kid-clad families swarm here at weekends for its car-free outdoor space and easy, excellent-value cuisine that embraces everything from pizza to stockfish. Reservations recommended. Check its Facebook page for weekly menus.

Restaurant La LitoteMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 93 24 27 82; http://lalitote.fr; 5 rue de l’Évêché; 2-/3-course menus €25/30, mains €18; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)

Chef Stéphane Furlan delights diners with a regularly changing menu featuring seasonal delights like garlicky escargots à la Niçoise (snails) with anchovies and local mesclun, or stuffed squid with vegetables in parsley sauce. Summer dining is alfresco on a tree-shaded square; winter is in the stone-walled dining room with open fire.

Les BacchanalesGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 93 24 19 19; www.lesbacchanales.com; 247 av de Provence; 2-/3-/5-course lunch menus €32/40/60, 4/5/7-course dinner menus €65/75/95; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Thu-Mon)

At home in a 1930s town house, chef Christophe Dufau combines his culinary art (creative and seasonal, with every dish paired with the perfect wine) with fine art (daring original works on the walls). Feast on fish with artichokes and liquorice followed by fresh Gorges de Loup goat's cheese.

Should your tastebuds be totally besotted, you can enrol in a cooking class.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 93 58 06 38; www.ville-vence.fr; 8 place du Grand Jardin; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Jul & Aug, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat Sep, Oct & Mar-Jun, 9am-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

The tourist office has several good leaflets on self-guided tours in and around Vence.

8Getting There & Around

ALignes d'Azur (www.lignesdazur.com) bus 400 to and from Nice (€1.50, 1¼ hours, at least hourly) stops on place du Grand Jardin. Medieval Vence is pedestrian; park on place du Grand Jardin or in the streets leading to the historical centre.

Around Vence

The Pays Vençois is an enticing mix of fertile land, rocky heights and quirky attractions. A car is essential to get around.

Les Gorges du Loup

A combination of perilously perched villages, sheer cliffs, waterfalls, densely wooded slopes and gushing rivers, the Gorges du Loup is a scenic, unspoiled part of the world, known for spectacular drives and walking trails.

The highlight of the western side of the gorges (the D3) is the fortified village of Gourdon (elevation 760m, population 421), teetering on a rock edge to peer down on a magnificent coastal panorama that sweeps 80km from Nice to Théoule-sur-Mer. Views from the elegant landscaped gardens of 12th- to 17th-century Château de Gourdon (%04 93 09 68 02; www.chateau-gourdon.com; Gourdon; adult/reduced €7/5; hgardens by appointment only Apr-Sep) or panoramic place Victoria at the top of the souvenir-shop-riddled village are second to none. Or ditch the seasonal tourist crowd for paragliding school Ascendance (%06 13 50 44 64, 06 61 42 08 64; www.ascendance06.com; Auberge de Gourdon, rte de Caussol , Gourdon) and its unforgettable 15-/30-minute maiden flights in tandem (€80/110), one-day discovery courses (€140) and piloting lessons.

On the eastern side, off the D2210, the isolated hamlet of Courmes is reached by a single, winding lane. Further south is the hamlet of Le Pont du Loup. Standing over the Loup River, under what’s left of the old railway bridge (bombed during WWII), this is where villagers from Gourdon came to cultivate flowers and fruit trees. They would arrive on foot, along the chemin du Paradis, a mule track very popular with walkers today. Count on 80 minutes from Gourdon to Le Pont du Loup, 90 minutes to Le Bar-sur-Loup.

Testament to this fertile past is sweet factory Confiserie Florian (%04 93 59 32 91; www.confiserieflorian.com; chemin de la Confiserie, Le Pont du Loup; h8am-noon & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat & Sun), where jams, candied fruits and crystallised violets, roses and verveine leaves have been cooked up in a 19th-century flour mill since 1921. Free 20-minute tours show you how clementines and other fruits are candied by being simmered in syrup for three minutes every second day over a 45-day period; visit weekdays to see the kitchens in action. Tours end in the boutique, where you can taste and buy. Or nip up the hill to Florian's neighbouring La Boutique du Chocolat (16 chemin de la Confiserie, Le Pont du Loup) for a refreshing cone of rose-petal, jasmine or violet ice cream or poppy sorbet (one/two scoops €2/3.50).

Further down from Le Pont du Loup, on the D2210, hilltop Le Bar-sur-Loup (population 2990) pops onto the horizon. Bitter-orange trees are cultivated in terraces around the beautifully intact medieval village.

4Sleeping & Eating

oLa CascadeB&B€

(%04 93 09 65 85; www.gitedelacascade.com; 635 chemin de la Cascade, Courmes; d/tr/q €75/100/140; aWsc)

'The Waterfall' is a rural idyll. An old sheepfold, it sits snug in 4 hectares of land, with forest, ponds, swimming pool, pétanque pitch and majestic views of the Gorges du Loup. In summer it feels like the edge of the world, while winter is about cosying up by the fire. Dinner (€25 for three courses, including drinks) is another highlight.

Château de GrasseHOTEL€

(%04 93 42 06 29; www.chateaudegrasse.com; 6 place Francis Paulet, Le Bar-sur-Loup; d/q €100/120; Wc)

Perched right at the top of the village, it's hard to imagine that Le Bar-sur-Loup’s majestic 13th-century castle once lay in ruins. It's now an appealing hotel with irresistible wooden-deck terrace out front and German owner Heinrich at the helm. Six huge rooms ooze 'country-chic' elegance, with soft-toned fabrics and sweeping valley views. Simple/buffet breakfast €6/12.

oAuberge de CourmesMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 93 77 64 70; www.aubergedecourmes.com; 3 rue des Platanes, Courmes; menu €24, Sun lunch €27; hnoon-2pm Wed-Mon Sep-Jun, noon-2pm Thu-Mon Jul & Aug, evening by reservation only, closed Jan & Feb; Wc)

In the hamlet of Courmes, at the foot of mountains 10km north of Le Pont du Loup, this flowery inn is gorgeous for a long, lazy lunch alfresco. Talented young chef Richard Auray cooks up two starters and two mains using seasonal produce from the Nice market. Sunday lunch is hot with locals, so book before making the windy trek here.

The auberge (country inn) has five small, simple rooms (doubles including breakfast/half board €65/110); there are no TVs in the rooms and wi-fi is hit-and-miss, but who needs either when deer roam the village at night and fireflies put on a show (in June)?

L'École des FillesMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 93 09 40 20; www.restaurantecoledesfilles.fr; 380 av Amiral de Grasse, Le Bar-sur-Loup; lunch formule €24, 2/3/4-course menus €35/39/45; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat, 7-9pm Thu, noon-2pm Sun)

As the name suggests, this is the village's former girls' school and what makes it so special is that it has retained the charm of an old village school: in winter, meals are served in the 'classrooms', with their stone walls and patchwork of colourful cushions and crockery; in summer, the old playground becomes a lively terrace. The creative menu changes weekly.

Tourrettes-sur-Loup

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Dubbed the ‘city of violets’ after its signature flower, Tourrettes is a postcard-perfect, 15th-century hilltop village. Walking around the town won’t take you more than half an hour or so; other attractions are in the surrounding area.

1Sights & Activities

There are some great walks to do around the town, many with panoramic views. The tourist office (%04 93 24 18 93; www.tourrettessurloup.com; 2 place de la Libération; h8.30am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat) on Tourrettes' central square has plenty of itinerary information.

La Ferme des CourmettesFARM

(%04 93 59 31 93; www.chevredescourmettes.com; rte des Courmettes; h9am-12.30pm & 4-6pm Mar-Dec)S

An organic goat's-cheese producer, this farm welcomes visitors. To see its 70 goats being milked, arrive sharp at 8am. Farm tours (one hour, €63 for up to 10 people, available in English) include tastings of the cheese – divine and incredibly diverse in taste. Find the farm 4.4km along the perilously steep and hairpin-laced rte des Courmettes, signposted off the D2210 to Tourrettes.

Bastide aux ViolettesFARM, MUSEUM

(%04 93 59 06 97; Quartier de la Ferrage; h10am-noon & 2-5.45pm Tue-Sat, 2-6pm Sun Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 2-5.45pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jun)F

To find out more about Tourrettes' famous violet, head to the Bastide aux Violettes, 10 minutes' walk from the centre of town. This modern space takes you through the history of the flower, its uses and cultivation (you can see fields).

Domaine des CourmettesWALKING

(%04 92 11 02 32; www.courmettes.com; rte des Courmettes; h8am-8pm Mar-Dec)SF

This nature reserve on the lofty Plateau des Courmettes protects millennia-old holly oaks and rare birds. There are three circular sentiers de randonée (walking trails) to follow, ranging from an easy 1.2km to a steep 5.5km hike uphill to the top of the Pïc des Courmettes (1280m). Grab a map and pick up trailheads at the visitor centre.

The visitor centre occupies a beautiful 19th-century farmhouse that offers accommodation (dorms €35, breakfast €7.50)

4Sleeping & Eating

oLe Mas des CigalesB&B€€

(%04 93 59 25 73; www.lemasdescigales.com; 1673 rte des Quenières; d €135; aWs)

With its pretty Provençal mas (farmhouse), tumbling garden, picture-perfect pool, sweeping views and feast of a breakfast, it's likely you’ll never want to leave this five-room chambre d’hôte, run with care and passion by Belgian couple Stefaan and Véronique. Active types will adore the tennis courts, pétanque pitch and bicycles. Dinner (€30 to €35) is cooked up twice a week.

oBistrot Gourmand ClovisMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 93 58 87 04; www.clovisgourmand.fr; 21 Grand Rue; 2/3/4-course menus €38/45/52; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun; v)

This achingly cool bistro in the cobbled heart of Tourrettes is a stunner – for its stylish contemporary decor and its creative cuisine, honoured with a Michelin star. Chef Julien Bousseau works with only the best seasonal produce from the region and the results are superb. The wine list stays very much in Provence and is equally appealing. Bookings essential.

Col de Vence

The northbound D2 from Vence leads to photogenic Coursegoules, a hilltop village with 11th-century castle ruins and fortifications, via Col de Vence (963m), a mountain pass offering good views of the baous (rocky promontories) typical of this region. The landscape across these lofty plateaux is very arid, a far cry from the orchards and lush valleys around the Loup River. Various walking trails criss-cross the area.