St-Tropez to Toulon

Why Go?

Sizzling St-Tropez lives up to its reputation as a mythical fishing port with magnificent sex appeal. While away the days strolling the village and people-watching in the place des Lices, or sipping a cappuccino alongside the yacht-lined quay. Then head out to explore the peninsula’s soul-stirring coastal paths, chichi beach clubs and vine-knitted capes. When you’re ready to move out of the limelight, you’ll be enveloped by nature in the Massif des Maures, where thick chestnut groves harbour small villages and surprising vistas. The main trio of islands in the Îles d'Hyères offers a splendid, quiet coastal escape. Inland, in the Haut-Var, meander stone villages, each with its own character and history, and meet the laid-back people who maintain an unpretentious but enviable way of life. Oh, and allow plenty of time to dine well.

Driving Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

A Chez Bruno

A Le Clos des Vignes

A La Pescalune

A Domaine de la Maurette

A La Vague d'Or

Best Places to Stay

A Le Mas du Langoustier

A Hôtel des Deux Rocs

A Hôtel Byblos

A Hôtel de la Tour

A Château de Valmer

St-Tropez to Toulon Highlights

1 Frolick with celebrities in St-Tropez during high season, and soak up the golden light in winter.

2 Find your way through the Massif des Maures to serene Monastère de la Verne.

3 Roam the tranquil back roads of the Haut-Var and its tiny hilltop villages.

4 Take a dramatic cape-to-cape walk around the St-Tropez peninsula.

5 Spend the day wandering (or snorkelling) at the lush Mediterranean garden of the Domaine du Rayol.

6 Enjoy the island paradise of Île de Porquerolles.

7 Go nuts on sweet chestnuts in Collobrières.

8 Promenade on the quay at Sanary-sur-Mer and taste Bandol wines.

Presqu’île de St-Tropez

Jutting out into the sea, between the Golfe de St-Tropez and the Baie de Cavalaire, is the St-Tropez peninsula. From swanky St-Tropez on the northern coast, fine-sand beaches of buttercream yellow and gold – easily the loveliest on the Côte d’Azur – ring the peninsula. Inland, the flower-dressed hilltop villages of Gassin and Ramatuelle charm the socks off millions.

St-Tropez

Pop 4903

Pouting sexpot Brigitte Bardot came to St-Tropez in the '50s to star in Et Dieu Créa la Femme (And God Created Woman; 1956) and overnight transformed the peaceful fishing village into a sizzling jet-set favourite. Tropeziens have thrived on their sexy image ever since: at the Vieux Port, yachts like spaceships jostle for millionaire moorings, and infinitely more tourists jostle to admire them.

Yet there is a serene side to this village trampled by 60,000 summertime inhabitants and visitors on any given day. Out of season the St-Tropez of mesmerising quaint beauty and ‘sardine scales glistening like pearls on the cobblestones’ that charmed Guy de Maupassant (1850–93) comes to life. Meander cobbled lanes in the old fishing quarter of La Ponche, sip pastis at a place des Lices cafe, watch old men play pétanque (a variant of the game of bowls) beneath plane trees, or walk in solitary splendour from beach to beach along the coastal path.

St-Tropez

1Top Sights

1Citadelle de St-TropezF2

2La PoncheD1

3Musée de l'AnnonciadeC2

4Place des LicesE3

5Vieux PortD2

1Sights

6Bailli de Suffren StatueD2

7Chapelle de la MiséricordeE2

8Cimitière MarinG1

9Église de St-TropezD1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

10Les Bateaux VertsD1

11Sentier du LittoralE1

4Sleeping

12B Lodge HôtelE2

13Hôtel ByblosF3

14Hôtel ErmitageF2

15Hôtel Le ColombierD3

16Hôtel Les PalmiersD3

17Hôtel Lou CagnardD4

18Pan Deï PalaisE3

19PastisA4

5Eating

20Au Caprice des DeuxE2

21Auberge des MauresC3

22Chez les GarçonsD1

23La RamadeE3

24La Table du MarchéD2

25La Tarte TropézienneD3

26Le Bistrot à la TruffeD1

27Le CaféE3

28Le G'E2

29Le GorilleD2

30Le SportingD3

31SalamaD3

6Drinking & Nightlife

Bar at l'ErmitageF2

Bar du PortD2

32Café de ParisD2

33Le Petit BarD1

34Le PigeonnierE1

Les Caves du RoyF3

35L'EsquinadeD1

36SénéquierD2

37VIP RoomC2

38White 1921E3

7Shopping

39Atelier RondiniD3

40Benoît Gourmet & CoD3

41De l'Une à l'AutreD3

42K JacquesC2

43K JacquesC2

44Le DépôtD3

45MarketE3

1Sights & Activities

For St-Tropez' fabled beach scene, head out to the Peninsula.

oVieux PortPORT

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Yachts line the harbour and visitors stroll the quays at the picturesque old port. In front of the sable-coloured town houses, the Bailli de Suffren statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; quai Suffren), cast from a 19th-century cannon, peers out to sea. The bailiff (1729–88) was a sailor who fought with a Tropezien crew against Britain and Prussia during the Seven Years' War. As much of an institution as the bailiff is portside cafe Sénéquier.

Duck beneath the archway, next to the tourist office, to uncover St-Tropez’ daily morning fish market, on place aux Herbes.

oPlace des LicesSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

St-Tropez’ legendary and very charming central square is studded with plane trees, cafes and pétanque players. Simply sitting on a cafe terrace watching the world go by or jostling with the crowds at its extravaganza of a twice-weekly market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place des Lices; h8am-1pm Tue & Sat), jam-packed with everything from fruit and veg to antique mirrors and sandals, is an integral part of the St-Tropez experience.

Artists and intellectuals have met for decades in St-Tropez’ famous Café des Arts, now simply called Le Café ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lecafe.fr; place des Lices; lunch/dinner menus €18/32; h8am-11pm), not to be confused with the newer, green-canopied Café des Arts on the corner of the square. Aspiring pétanque players can borrow a set of boules from the bar. Locals tend to hang on the other side of the square.

oMusée de l’AnnonciadeART MUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place Grammont; adult/child €6/free; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon)

In a gracefully converted 16th-century chapel, this small but famous museum showcases an impressive collection of modern art infused with that legendary Côte d’Azur light. Pointillist Paul Signac bought a house in St-Tropez in 1892 and introduced other artists to the area. The museum’s collection includes his St-Tropez, Le Quai (1899) and St-Tropez, Coucher de Soleil au Bois de Pins (1896).

Vuillard, Bonnard and Maurice Denis (the self-named 'Nabis' group) have a room to themselves. The Fauvist collection includes works by Derain and Matisse, who spent the summer of 1904 here. Cubists George Braque and Picasso are also represented.

oLa PoncheHISTORIC QUARTER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Shrug off the hustle of the port in St-Tropez’ historic fishing quarter, La Ponche, northeast of the Vieux Port. From the southern end of quai Frédéric Mistral, place Garrezio sprawls east from 10th-century Tour Suffren to place de l’Hôtel de Ville. From here, rue Guichard leads southeast to sweet-chiming Église de St-Tropez ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place de l’Ormeau), a St-Trop landmark built in 1785 in Italian Baroque style. Inside is a bust of St Torpes, honoured during Les Bravades in May.

Follow rue du Portail Neuf south to Chapelle de la Miséricorde ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; rue de la Miséricorde), built in 1645 with a pretty bell tower and colourful tiled dome.

oCitadelle de St-TropezMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 54 84 14; admission €3; h10am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, 10am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Oct-Mar)

Built in 1602 to defend the coast against Spain, the citadel dominates the hillside overlooking St-Tropez to the east. The views are fantastic. Its dungeons are home to the excellent Musée de l’Histoire Maritime, an all-interactive museum inaugurated in July 2013 retracing the history of humans at sea, from fishing, trading, exploration, travel and the navy.

Sentier du LittoralWALKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

A spectacular coastal path wends past rocky outcrops and hidden bays 35km south from St-Tropez, around the peninsula to the beach at Cavalaire-sur-Mer. In St-Tropez the yellow-flagged path starts at La Ponche, immediately east of Tour du Portalet, and curves around Port des Pêcheurs, past St-Tropez’ citadel. It then leads past the walled Cimitière Marin (Marine Cemetery; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), Plage des Graniers and beyond.

The tourist office has maps with distances and walking times (eg to Plage des Salins: 8.5km, 2½ hours).

ONLINE RESOURCES

Visit Var (www.visitvar.fr) Information on the Var region.
Vins de Provence (www.vinsdeprovence.com) Wine.
Maisons d'Hôtes du Var (www.mhvprovence.com) Stylish B&Bs.

TTours

Les Bateaux VertsBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 49 29 39; www.bateauxverts.com; quai Jean Jaurès)

Les Bateaux Verts offers trips around Baie des Cannebiers (dubbed ‘Bay of Stars’ after the celebrity villas dotting its coast) April to September (adult/child €10.50/6), as well as seasonal boats to Cannes (€37.80/24.40) and Porquerolles (€42.30/27.80), and shuttle boats to Marines de Cogolin, Port Grimaud, Ste-Maxime and Les Issambres.

zFestivals & Events

Les BravadesRELIGIOUS

Since 1558 Tropeziens have turned out in traditional costume to watch an ear-splitting army of 140 musket-firing bravadeurs parade with a bust of St Torpes. Les Bravades (Provençal for ‘bravery’) is held 16 to 18 May.

Les Bravades des EspagnolsCARNIVAL

Blazing guns and colourful processions on 15 June celebrate victory over the 21 Spanish galleons that attacked in 1637.

HEADLESS HERO

A grisly legend provided St-Tropez with its name in AD 68. After beheading a Roman officer named Torpes for becoming a Christian, the emperor Nero packed the decapitated body into a small boat, along with a dog and a rooster, who were to devour his remains. Miraculously, the body came ashore in St-Tropez un-nibbled, and the village adopted the headless Torpes as its saint.

4Sleeping

St-Tropez is no shoestring destination, but campgrounds sit southeast along Plage de Pampelonne. Most hotels close occasionally in winter; the tourist office lists what's open and has a list of B&Bs. If you're driving, double-check the parking arrangements.

oHôtel Lou CagnardHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 04 24; www.hotel-lou-cagnard.com; 18 av Paul Roussel; d €81-171; hMar-Oct; aW)

Book well ahead for this great-value courtyard charmer, shaded by lemon and fig trees, and owned by schooled hoteliers. The pretty Provençal house has a jasmine-scented garden strung with fairy lights. Bright, beautifully clean rooms are decorated with painted furniture. Five have ground-floor garden terraces. The cheapest rooms have private washbasin and stand-up bath-tub but share a toilet; most have air-con.

Hôtel Le ColombierHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 05 31; http://lecolombierhotel.free.fr; impasse des Conquettes; d/tr from €105/235; hmid-Apr–mid-Nov; aW)

An immaculately clean converted house, five minutes’ walk from place des Lices, the Colombier’s fresh, summery decor is feminine and uncluttered, with bedrooms in shades of white, and vintage furniture.

Hôtel Les PalmiersHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 01 61; www.hotel-les-palmiers.com; 26 bd Vasserot; d €140-275; aW)

In an old villa opposite place des Lices, Les Palmiers has simple, bright rooms around a stylish courtyard. Choose one in the main building rather than the annexe.

PastisDESIGN HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 98 12 56 50; www.pastis-st-tropez.com; 61 av du Général Leclerc; d from €375; aWs)

This stunning town house–turned-hotel is the brainchild of an English couple besotted with Provence and passionate about modern art. You’ll die for the pop-art-inspired interior, and long for a swim in the emerald-green pool. Every room is beautiful, although those overlooking av Leclerc are noisy.

Hôtel ErmitageBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 81 08 10; www.ermitagehotel.fr; av Paul Signac; r €180-850; aW)

Kate Moss and Lenny Kravitz favour St-Trop’s latest rocker crash pad, which draws inspiration from St-Tropez from the ’50s to the ’70s: disco meets midcentury modern. Rooms are decorated in bold, glossy colours – the smallest have the shower in the room itself. There are knockout views over town from the bar terrace.

B Lodge HôtelHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 58 72; www.hotel-b-lodge.com; 23 rue de l’Aïoli; d from €170; hDec-Oct; aW)

Behind the traditional building exterior hide some very modern rooms indeed, with minimalist decor, dark soft furnishings and feature stone walls. The cheapest rooms don’t have air-con, which, at this price, feels rather stingy. But those with balconies and Citadelle views are fabulous. Prices drop significantly in winter.

GLITZY LIVING

In addition to Pastis and Hôtel Ermitage, St-Tropez is home to other celebrity-studded hangs, with prices to match.

oHôtel ByblosHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 56 68 00; www.byblos.com; av Paul Signac; r/ste from €340/875; hmid-Apr–Sep; iWs)

Hôtel Byblos remains a perennial favourite among Hollywood A-listers, who come for the exclusive atmosphere, smack in the centre of St-Tropez. Renowned Alain Ducasse restaurant Rivea and Byblos' Les Caves du Roy club scene round out the fun.

Pan Deï PalaisHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 17 71 71; www.pandei.com; 52 rue Gambetta; d from €690)

This elegant town house with a lush central courtyard is decked out along luxe Indian themes. Swan about like a rajah.

La Bastide de Saint-TropezHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 55 82 55; www.bastidesaint-tropez.com; rte des Carles; r/apt from €550/1120; hFeb-Dec; aWs)

Staying at La Bastide de Saint-Tropez, on the edge of the town, is like living in your own sprawling country villa.

oLa Vague d'OrGASTRONOMIC€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 55 91 00; www.residencepinede.com; Résidence de la Pinède, Plage de la Bouillabaisse; menus from €275; h7.30-10pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct)

Wonder-chef Arnaud Donckele has established a gastronomic temple with three Michelin stars at the Résidence de la Pinède: expect Mediterranean ingredients and flavours, with a one-of-a-kind twist.

Le Bistrot à la TruffeGASTRONOMIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 43 95 18; www.bistrot-la-truffe.com; 2 rue de l'Eglise; menus from €69; h11.30am-10pm Apr-Sep)

Bruno Clément, arguably France's most famous truffle chef – who has an elaborate restaurant north in Lorgues – has opened Le Bistrot à la Truffe to dish up extravagant truffle-dosed creations.

5Eating

Prices are high: the glamour dust sprinkled on fish and chips doesn’t come cheap! Many restaurants close in winter. Reservations are essential in high season.

Don’t leave town without sampling tarte Tropézienne, an orange-blossom-flavoured double sponge cake filled with thick cream, created by a Polish baker and christened by Brigitte Bardot in the 1950s.

Quai Jean Jaurès is lined with mediocre restaurants with great portside views. Cheaper eats cluster near Quai de l'Épi and the new port.

oLa Tarte TropézienneCAFE, BOULANGERIE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.latartetropezienne.fr; place des Lices; mains €13-15; h6.30am-7.30pm, lunch noon-3pm)

This cafe-bakery is the creator of the eponymous cake, and therefore the best place to buy St-Tropez’ delicacy. But to start, choose from delicious daily specials, salads and sandwiches, which you can enjoy in the bistro inside or on the little terrace outside.

Several branches dot St-Tropez, and you'll see them around the Côte d'Azur – perfect for catering to your sweet tooth.

Le GorilleCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 03 93; www.legorille.com; 1 quai Suffren; sandwiches/mains €7/17; h7am-7pm Thu-Tue Apr-Oct)

This portside hang-out gets its name from its previous owner – the short, muscular and apparently very hairy Henri Guérin! Stop here for breakfast or a postclubbing croque-monsieur (grilled cheese and ham sandwich, sometimes topped with béchamel) and fries.

La RamadeBISTRO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 81 58 67; 3 rue du Temple; menus €16; hnoon-2pm & 7-10.30pm Feb–mid-Nov)

Simple, unpretentious and a bargain: a rarity in St-Tropez. Dine heartily by the hearth in winter or on the terrace in summer, just a block from place des Lices.

oLe SportingBRASSERIE€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place des Lices; mains €16-30; h8am-1am)

There’s a bit of everything on the menu at always-packed Le Sporting, but the speciality is the hamburger topped with foie gras and morel cream sauce. The Brittany-born owner also serves perfect buckwheat crêpes, honest lunch deals (€13), and a simple salad and croque-monsieur.

La Table du MarchéBISTRO€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 01 25; www.christophe-leroy.com; 11 rue des Commerçants; lunch/dinner menus €21/32; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Apr-Oct; v)

This comfortable bistro by St-Tropez’ savviest chef, Christophe Leroy, is a success story. The lobster gratin and truffle- and celery-stuffed ravioli are unforgettable, and vegetarians are properly catered for. On the ground floor of the renovated historic town house, a salon de thé (tearoom) offers tasty pastries and treats all day long.

Le G'BISTRO€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %07 86 31 11 22; 67 rue du Portail Neuf; lunch/dinner menus €16/35; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun)

Casual and tiny, Le G' is tucked into the old town of St-Tropez as the lanes climb toward the citadel. The busy chef works in a small open-plan kitchen, so come prepared to wait, but the generous portions, delicious daily menus and cheerful service make it a super deal. For sun-worshippers, a few tables spill onto the pavement.

Chez les GarçonsMODERN FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 49 42 67; www.chezlesgarcons.com; 11/13 rue du Cépoun; menus €32; h9-11pm Thu-Sun Mar, Apr & Oct, daily May-Sep)

Super-friendly staff serve delicate specialities like a perfectly poached egg with foie gras, all under the watchful eyes of Marilyn, Brigitte and Audrey (art on the wall). There's a lively gay bar next door.

Au Caprice des DeuxTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 76 78; www.aucapricedesdeux.com; 40 rue du Portail Neuf; mains €25-36; h7.30-10.30pm nightly Jul & Aug, Wed-Mon Apr-Jun & Sep, Thu-Sat Oct-Mar)

This traditional maison de village (old stone terraced house) with coffee-coloured wooden shutters is a fancy-night-out favourite with locals. Its intimate interior is as traditional as its French cuisine: think beef filet with truffles or duck.

SalamaMOROCCAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 59 62; http://formastec.free.fr/salama; 1 rue des Tisserands; mains €22-35; h7-11pm Apr-Oct)

Lounge on cushioned exotic furnishings, wash down heavenly scented couscous and tajines with fresh mint tea, and finish with a lime sherbet.

Auberge des MauresPROVENçAL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 01 50; www.aubergedesmaures.fr; 4 rue du Docteur Boutin; mains €35-45; h7.30-10pm Apr-Oct)

The town’s oldest restaurant remains the locals’ choice for always-good, copious portions of earthy Provençal cooking, like daube (braised beef stew) or tapenade-stuffed lamb shoulder. Book a table (essential) on the leafy courtyard.

ST-TROPEZ BEACH CLUBS

St-Tropez' seaside scene is defined by its restaurants and clubs (which blanket the sand), and they're all wildly different. Mattresses (€15 to €20) and parking (€5 to €6) are extra. Most open May to September (call ahead); all are marked on the tourist-office map. Book lunch (well ahead) at any of the following.

Aqua ClubBEACH RESTAURANT€€

(%04 94 79 84 35; www.aqua-club-plage.fr; rte de l'Épi, Plage de Pampelonne; mains €22-29; hFeb-Oct)

A friendly mixed gay and straight crowd, the most diverse by far on Pampelonne, settles in here for relaxed drinks or steaks. Has a longer opening season than most.

La Plage des JumeauxSEAFOOD€€€

(%04 94 58 21 80; www.plagedesjumeaux.com; rte de l’Épi, Plage de Pampelonne; mains €25-40; hnoon-3pm; vc)

The top pick of St-Tropez’ beach restaurants, Jumeaux serves beautiful seafood (including fabulous whole fish, ideal to share) and sun-busting salads on its dreamy white-and-turquoise-striped beach. Families are well catered for, with playground equipment, beach toys and a kids menu.

Moorea PlageBEACH RESTAURANT€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 18 17; www.mooreaplage.fr; rte des Plages, Plage de Tahiti; mains €23-44)

Ideal for conversation and backgammon, this relatively laid-back club and restaurant is tops for steak.

Pearl BeachBEACH RESTAURANT€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 98 12 70 70; www.thepearlbeach.com; quartier de la Bouillabaisse; mains €23-35; hmid-Feb–Dec)

Pearl Beach is on the way into town on rte de St-Tropez, and offers family-friendly beachside dining.

Club 55CLUB

(%04 94 55 55 55; www.leclub55.fr; 43 bd Patch, Plage de Pampelonne; h10am-late Apr-Sep)

The longest-running beach club dates to the 1950s and was originally the crew canteen during the filming of And God Created Woman. Now it caters to celebs who do not want to be seen. The food is – remarkably – nothing special.

Nikki BeachCLUB

(%04 94 79 82 04; www.nikkibeach.com/sttropez; rte de l'Épi, Plage de Pampelonne; h10am-midnight Apr-Sep)

Favoured by dance-on-the-bar celebs who want to be seen. The deafening scene ends at midnight.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Dress to kill. And bring more money than you think you'll need. Many places close in winter, but in summer it's party central seven days a week.

To tap into the local gay scene, hit Chez les Garçons or L'Esquinade.

oSénéquierCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.senequier.com; quai Jean Jaurès; h8am-1am year-round)

Sartre wrote parts of Les Chemins de la Liberté (Roads to Freedom) at this portside cafe – in business since 1887 – that's popular with boaties, bikers and tourists. Look for the terrace crammed with pillar-box-red tables and director’s chairs. Be warned, however, that a mere coffee costs €8…

oLes Caves du RoyCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.lescavesduroy.com; Hôtel Byblos, av Paul Signac; h7pm-5am Fri & Sat Apr-Oct, nightly Jul & Aug)

This star-studded bar at the infamous Hôtel Byblos remains the perennial champion of nightclubs in St-Tropez, if not the whole Riviera. Dress to impress if you hope to get in and mingle with starlets and race-car drivers.

Bar du PortCAFE, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.barduport.com; quai Suffren; h7am-3am year-round)

Young, happening harbour-side bar for beautiful people, with chichi decor in shades of white and silver.

Bar at l’ErmitageBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ermitagehotel.fr; Hôtel Ermitage, av Paul Signac; h5pm-midnight Apr-Oct)

Escape the crowds at the laid-back Ermitage, kitted out in distressed ’50s-modern furniture, with enchanting views of the rooftops of old St-Tropez and the sea.

L’EsquinadeCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 rue du Four; hmidnight-7am daily Jun-Sep, Thu-Sat only Oct-May)

Where the party winds up when you want to dance until dawn. Open year-round and the Tropéziens’ top choice, it's also distinctly gay-friendly.

White 1921BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.white1921.com; place des Lices; h8pm-late mid-May–Sep)

One of the newest entries on the St-Tropez scene, White 1921 is owned by Louis Vuitton. It's a chic alfresco champagne lounge in a renovated all-white town house on the place des Lices. Can't make it home? Stay over in one of the swanky rooms (from €345).

Café de ParisCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafedeparis.fr; 15 quai Suffren; h8am-2am year-round)

The terrace is the place to sport your new strappy sandals at afternoon aperitifs; service is the friendliest along the port.

Le Petit BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 rue Sibille; h7pm-late)

This tiny, bright and central lounge slings cocktails year-round.

VIP RoomCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 14 70; www.viproom.fr; av du 11 Novembre 1918; hApr-Aug)

New York loft–style club at the Nouveau Port; around for aeons and still lures in the occasional VIP.

Le PigeonnierCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 84 26; 13 rue de la Ponche; hMay-Aug)

The least flash, with a tenue intelligemment négligée (trendy casual) dress code.

7Shopping

St-Tropez is loaded with couture boutiques, gourmet food shops and art galleries.

Le DépôtCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.ledepot-saint-tropez.com; 6 bd Louis Blanc; h10am-noon & 2-6.30pm Tue-Sat)

A chic boutique of designer clothes and accessories, mostly secondhand and vintage.

De l’Une à l’AutreCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 6 rue Joseph Quaranta; h10am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

Preloved designer labels at affordable prices.

Atelier RondiniSHOES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rondini.fr; 16 rue Georges Clémenceau; h9.30am-6.30pm Tue-Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Sun)

Colette brought a pair of sandals from Greece to Atelier Rondini (open since 1927) to be replicated. It's still making the iconic sandals for about €135.

K JacquesSHOES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 41 50; www.kjacques.com; 39bis rue Allard; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm & 3.30-7pm Sun)

Handcrafting sandals (€145 to €220) since 1933 for such clients as Picasso and Brigitte Bardot. There's another branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 16 rue Seillon) nearby.

Benoît Gourmet & CoFOOD, WINE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 73 78; 6 rue des Charrons; h10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat)

Everything gourmet (caviar, Champagne and foie gras included).

8Information

The English-language brochure Out and About is available in local tourist offices, or check www.golfe-saint-tropez-information.com.

Pôle de SantéHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 98 12 53 08; www.ch-saint-tropez.fr; D559, Gassin)

Nearest hospital, 11km from St-Tropez.

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 12 70 00; rue François Sibilli)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %08 92 68 48 28; www.sainttropeztourisme.com; quai Jean Jaurès; h9.30am-1.30pm & 3-7.30pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, to 6pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

Occasional walking tours April to October. Has a kiosk in Parking du Port in July and August.

8Getting There & Around

Boat

Services are reduced or cut in winter; check online.

Les Bateaux Verts Runs shuttle boats connecting St-Tropez with Ste-Maxime (one way/return €7.50/13.50, 15 minutes), Les Issambres (€8.50/15, 25 minutes), Marines de Cogolin (€6.70/12, 15 minutes) and Port Grimaud (€6.70/12, 20 minutes).

Les Bateaux de St-Raphaël ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 95 17 46; www.bateauxsaintraphael.com) Connects St-Tropez (Nouveau Port) and St-Raphaël (adult/child €15/10, one hour) mid-April to October. The train station in St-Raphaël is 200m from the dock.

Sea taxi (%06 12 40 28 05; www.taxi-boat-saint-tropez.com) Boat taxis can be booked for anywhere around St-Tropez.

GETTING TO ST-TROPEZ

During high season, those in the know avoid horrendous four-hour traffic bottlenecks on the one road into St-Tropez (or €40 parking, which is hard to find) by parking in Port Grimaud or Ste-Maxime and taking a Les Bateaux Verts shuttle boat.

By train, the most convenient station is in St-Raphäel, which is served by Les Bateaux de St-Raphaël boats in high season, or a slower bus. Taxis from the train station cost €100 to €130.

Note that there is no luggage storage at the train station or any public place in the Var.

Bus

VarLibBUS

(%04 94 24 60 00; www.varlib.fr)

Tickets cost €3 from the St-Tropez bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 56 25 74; av du Général de Gaulle) for anywhere within the Var département, including Ramatuelle (35 minutes), St-Raphaël (1¼ hours to three hours, depending on traffic) via Grimaud and Port Grimaud, and Fréjus (one hour). Buses to Toulon (two hours, seven daily, fewer in summer) stop at Le Lavandou (one hour) and Hyères (1½ hours).

Buses serve Toulon-Hyères Airport (1½ to two hours), but some require a transfer.

Taxi

TaxiTAXI

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 05 27)

A taxi rank is at Vieux Port in front of the Musée de l’Annonciade.

Bicycle & Scooter

Rolling BikesBICYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 97 09 39; www.rolling-bikes.com; 14 av du Général Leclerc; per day bikes/scooters/motorcycles from €17/46/120, plus deposit)

Do as the locals do and opt for two wheels.

The Peninsula

South of St-Tropez unfurl manicured vineyards and quiet, narrow lanes dotted with châteaux, solitary stone bastides (country houses) and private villas. The Sentier du Littoral snakes along the entire coastline, including several dramatic capes. The golden sands of France's chicest beach, Plage de Pampelonne, line the peninsula's eastern side, where you'll find St-Tropez' storied beach-club scene.

The yield of regional vineyards – Côtes de Provence wine – can be tasted at châteaux along the D61 and the D93 and around the peninsula. Tourist offices have lists, or check www.routedesvinsdeprovence.com and Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu'île de St-Tropez ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 56 40 17; www.vignerons-saint-tropez.com; D98, La Foux; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat), where you can also shop. Mas de Pampelonne (%04 94 97 75 86; Chemin des Moulins; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Tue & Thu-Sat mid-Apr–Oct, reduced rest of year) is known for its crisp rosé.

Plage de Pampelonne & Around

1Sights & Activities

oPlage de PampelonneBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The 5km-long, celebrity-studded Plage de Pampelonne sports a line-up of exclusive beach restaurants and clubs in summer. Find public access (and parking for €5.50) near Moorea Plage; otherwise, join the crowds at one of the beach clubs. The northern edge of the beach begins 4km southeast of St-Tropez with Plage de Tahiti ( GOOGLE MAP ).

Plage des SalinsBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP ; rte des Salins)

Just east of St-Tropez, Plage des Salins is a long, wide sandy beach at the southern foot of Cap des Salins.

At the northern end of the beach, on a rock jutting out to sea, is the tomb of Émile Olivier (1825–1913), who served as first minister to Napoleon III until his exile in 1870. It looks out towards La Tête de Chien (Dog’s Head), named after the legendary dog who declined to eat St Torpes’ remains.

Sémaphore de CamaratLIGHTHOUSE

(hguided tour only Jun-Sep)F

Pampelonne stretches for 9km from Cap du Pinet to Cap Camarat, a rocky cape dominated by France’s second-tallest lighthouse (110m), operational since 1861, electrified in 1946 and automated from 1977. Scale it for giddy views of St-Tropez and the peninsula. Book tours at Ramatuelle's tourist office.

Pointe du CaponWALKING

( GOOGLE MAP )

This beautiful cape, 1km south of Plage des Salins, is criss-crossed with walking trails.

4Sleeping

La Vigneraie 1860CAMPGROUND€

(%04 94 97 17 03; www.la-vigneraie-1860.fr; chemin des Moulins; per site/adult €12.50/10; hreception 8am-noon & 5-8pm)

This simple caravan and camping ground just off of Plage de Pampelonne offers one of the few ways to live on the cheap and still get a chance to hang out in one of the most exclusive locales in the region. Surrounded by vineyards, it has basic showers and apartments (from €90). Cash only.

MARKET DAYS NEAR ST-TROPEZ

Monday Bormes-les-Mimosas, Port Grimaud.
Tuesday Bandol, Callas, Cotignac, Fayence, Hyères, Lorgues, St-Tropez.
Wednesday Bormes-les-Mimosas, La Garde Freinet, Salernes, Sanary-sur-Mer, Tourtour.
Thursday Aups (truffles November to March), Bargemon, Callas, Collobrières (July and August), Fayence, Grimaud, Hyères, Port Grimaud, Ramatuelle.
Friday Entrecasteaux, La Motte, Port Grimaud.
Saturday Carcès, Claviers, Cogolin, Draguignan, Fayence, Hyères, St-Tropez, Tourtour.
Sunday Ampus, Cavalière (all-day flea market), Collobrières, Gassin (April to October), La Garde Freinet, Port Grimaud, Ramatuelle, Salernes, Vidauban.

Ramatuelle

High on a hill, this labyrinthine walled village with a tree-studded central square got its name from ‘Rahmatu’llah’, meaning ‘Divine Gift’ – a legacy of the 10th-century Saracen occupation. Jazz and theatre fill the tourist-packed streets during August’s Festival de Ramatuelle (www.festivalderamatuelle.com) and Jazz Fest (www.jazzfestivalramatuelle.com), and it's a wonderfully scenic stroll.

If you follow the road (rte des Moulins de Paillas) up over the hilltop the 2.5km toward Gassin, you'll take in grand views and historic windmills.

4Sleeping

Ferme LadouceurB&B€€

(%04 94 79 24 95; www.fermeladouceur.com; D61, quartier Les Roullière; d incl breakfast €125-140; hApr-Sep)

Have breakfast beneath a fig tree at this lovely chambre d’hôte in a 19th-century bastide. The rustic restaurant (menu including wine €45) is open to anyone who fancies an evening taste of good old-fashioned farm cuisine. Find it north of Ramatuelle, signposted off the D61 to St-Tropez.

Auberge de l’OumèdeB&B€€€

(%04 94 44 11 11; www.aubergedeloumede.com; Chemin de l’Oumède; d from €200; hMay-Sep; aWs)

This isolated bastide down a single-lane track, 3.5km west of Ramatuelle, is indeed a rare treat. It has seven impeccable rooms and a pool – handy should you really not want to leave.

5Eating & Drinking

As in St-Tropez, reservations on the peninsula are essential.

Chez CamilleSEAFOOD€€€

(%04 98 12 68 98; www.chezcamille.fr; rte de Bonne Terrasse, Pampelonne-Ramatuelle; menus €44-79; h12.30-2pm & 8-9.30pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep)

Deep terracotta walls hide this blue-and-white-tiled fishing cottage dating from 1913. Now into its fourth generation, the beachside restaurant cooks up just one thing over a wood-fuelled grill: fish. From the D93 follow signs for Bonne Terrasse; it's 6km east of Ramatuelle, just south of Plage de Pampelonne.

Café de l’OrmeauCAFE

(%04 94 79 20 20; place de l’Ormeau; h7am-7pm Apr-Oct, reduced hours rest of year)

Lovely vine-covered cafe terrace for coffee or light meals (mains €15 to €18).

8Information

Ramatuelle Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 98 12 64 00; www.ramatuelle-tourisme.com; place de l’Ormeau; h9am-1.30pm & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of year)

Stocks local maps and vineyard info.

Gassin

In medieval Gassin, 11km southwest of St-Tropez atop a rocky promontory, narrow streets wend up to the village church (1558). The village’s most compelling feature is its 360-degree view of the peninsula, St-Tropez bay and the Maures forests.

4Sleeping & Eating

Hôtel BellovistoPENSION€

(%04 94 56 17 30; www.bellovisto.eu; place des Barrys; d/tr from €70/110; hApr-Sep; aW)

A large part of the charm of this hilltop hotel is the cafe-clad square with panoramic view on which it resides. The hotel itself is dead simple: local bar on the ground floor displaying pétanque club trophies, a fine restaurant (mains €28) and nine rooms up top.

Au Vieux GassinPROVENçAL€€

(%04 94 56 14 26; www.auvieuxgassin-restaurant.com; place des Barrys; menu €32; h11.30am-2pm & 6.30-9.30pm Mar-Oct)

This popular eatery gets packed with locals on weekends, digging into regional specialities, and tables spill onto the grand terrace in summer.

Gigaro & Cap Lardier

On the southeastern coast of the Presqu’île de St-Tropez, Cap Taillat is guarded by the Conservatoire du Littoral and shelters some of France's rarest plant species as well as a population of Hermann tortoises. Cap Lardier, the peninsula's southernmost cape, is protected by the Parc National de Port-Cros.

Seaside hamlet Gigaro harbours a sandy beach, some lovely eating and sleeping options, and a water-sports school. From the far end of the beach, a board maps the Sentier du Littoral that works its way around the coast to Cap Lardier (4.7km, 1½ hours) and past Cap Taillat to L’Escalet (9km, 2¾ hours). From Gigaro, the narrow but drop-dead-gorgeous D93 winds inland over the Col de Collebasse (129m) to Ramatuelle – a good ride for mountain bikers. L’Escalet, accessible by a 2.5km road signposted off the D93, is a pretty little rocky cove.

4Sleeping & Eating

Le RefugePENSION€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 79 67 38, 06 17 95 65 38; www.lerefuge-cotedazur.fr; plage de Gigaro, Gigaro; r/studios incl breakfast €80/110; hApr-Sep; W)

This rustic seaside house sits back off the sand. Ten humble rooms and five studios with kitchenette provide simple accommodation and open onto private little tabled terraces. Proprietors cook up tasty grills at the restaurant of the same name at the start of the coastal path. Wi-fi downstairs.

oChâteau de ValmerHOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 55 15 15; www.chateauvalmer.com; 81 blvd de Gigaro; d from €332, treehouses €505; hMay-Sep; aiWs)

This fabulous 19th-century wine-producer’s mansion is for nature bods with a penchant for luxury. Sleep above vines in a cabane perchée (treehouse), stroll scented vegetable and herb gardens and play hide-and-seek around century-old palm and olive trees. Located between La Croix-Valmer and Gigaro.

Les 3 ÎlesB&B€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 49 03 73; www.3iles.com; 1779 blvd du Littoral, Quartier du Vergeron; d/ste incl breakfast €245/315; hmid-Mar–mid-Oct; aWs)

The same seductive view of the sea and those golden Îles d’Hyères glistening on the horizon awaits you in each of the five carefully thought-out rooms and infinity pool. Tropézienne Catherine and husband Jean-Paul are the creative energy behind this faultless, oh-so-chic maison d’hôte. Located between La Croix-Valmer and Gigaro.

Couleurs JardinSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 79 59 12; www.restaurantcouleursjardin.com; Plage de Gigaro, Gigaro; mains €25-35; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Apr-Sep)

Eclectic and hip, this imaginative beachside space is the place to dine and/or drink. Loll on cushioned seating beneath the trees or pick a table on the terrace with nothing between you and the deep blue sea. Cuisine is fish and market fuelled.

Golfe de St-Tropez

Port Grimaud sits on the edge of the Golfe de St-Tropez. A mosquito-filled swamp in the 1960s, this modern pleasure port is now barricaded from the busy N98 by high walls. Its yacht-laden waterways comprise 12km of quays, but the town is best used as an access point for shuttle boats to St-Tropez or to catch Le Petit Train de Grimaud (%06 62 07 65 09; www.petit-train-de-grimaud.com; adult/child return €7/4; hApr-Sep), which makes a circuit from the port to the historic inland village, Grimaud (five to seven daily, 50 minutes).

Grimaud

This medieval postcard-perfect hilltop village sits 3km inland from the Golfe de St-Tropez. It's crowned with the dramatic shell of Château du Grimaud, built in the 11th century, fortified in the 15th century, destroyed during the Wars of Religion (1562–98), rebuilt in the 17th century, and wrecked again during the French Revolution. Magical evening concerts are held on the stage within the ruins during the music festival, Les Grimaldines, in July and August.

For a bite to eat, stop in to Fleur de Sel (%04 94 43 21 54; 4 place du Cros; lunch menu from €17, mains €20-40; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat Mar-Nov) for excellent local fare in the midst of the historic village.

Grimaud's tourist office (%04 94 55 43 83; www.grimaud-provence.com; 1 bd des Aliziers; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun, daily Jul & Aug), at the foot of the village on the D558, has information on walks, some with a guide.

South of Grimaud, along the St-Tropez-bound D61, visit Caves des Vignerons de Grimaud (%04 94 43 20 14; 36 av des Oliviers, D61, Grimaud; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sat), a cooperative where you can stock up on Vin de Pays du Var for little more than €2.50 a litre.

Haut-Var

The northern half of the Var département (north of the A8 autoroute), known as the Northern or Upper Var, is vastly different from its coastal counterpart. Peaceful hilltop villages drowse beneath the midday sun, and are within easy reach of the wild Gorges du Verdon. Skip Draguignan, the hard-nosed main town where the French army maintains its largest military base, and head for the hills: lush vineyards, earthy black truffles and a bounty of gastronomic delights. The best way to get around: your own wheels.

8Information

Most villages have their own websites and excellent tourist offices. Check www.visitvar.fr for details on the whole region. The Haut-Var is divided into sections served by their own tourist boards and governments. Going from Draguignan counterclockwise:

Dracénie (www.tourisme-dracenie.com)

Haut Var-Verdon (www.haut-var.com)

Provence Verte (www.provenceverte.fr)

Coeur du Var (www.coeurduvar.com)

For area winemakers, visit www.vinsdeprovence.com. Le Var Campsites booklets are available at tourist offices, while Gîtes de France (www.gites-de-france-var.fr) has country rentals.

Le Pass Sites Var is a free pass with discounts on admission to 28 abbeys, chapels, gardens and museums in the Var. Get the online coupon for the sights you are interested in at www.visitvar.fr.

`2`Driving Tour
Haut-Var Hilltop Villages

Start Domaine de Roucas

End Callas

Length 95km; one day

To find sleepy, unspoilt villages teetering on hilltops, from the D562, pick up the northbound D31 towards Entrecasteaux and Salernes. You'll wind past pretty vineyards with dry-stone walls, olive trees and vivid burnt-orange soil. After 1.5km pop into 1Domaine de Roucas for wine tasting. Continuing 4km, hilltop 2Entrecasteaux, its giant 17th-century château featuring formal gardens, perches dramatically along the river.

Bear right along the D31 towards Salernes and Aups, then drive another wiggly 6km to 3Salernes, where handmade terracotta tiles called terres cuites (literally 'baked earth') have been manufactured since the 18th century. The tourist office has a list of workshops to visit.

In Salernes pick up the westbound D2560 and subsequent D560 to 4Sillans-la-Cascade, on the banks of the River Bresque, a gem of a fortified village with a waterfall. Then it's 9km north along the D22 to 5Aups and another 10km southeast past olive groves and lavender gardens to the typical 'eagle nest' gold-stone village of 6Tourtour. Buy olive oil in the village and, in mid-December, watch olives being pressed in its 17th-century 7moulin à huile; the tourist office runs guided tours of the mill.

Six kilometres further east along the D51 you'll encounter Ampus, then continue east 9km to 8Châteaudouble, an astonishing village clinging to a cliff of the 9Gorges de Châteaudouble.

Just 7km east of here is aBargemon, a village with a maze of medieval streets and ramparts to stroll and an excellent bistro, La Pescalune, in which to dine.

bSeillans, a scenic 12km drive east, is an irresistibly pretty, typical Provençal village with cobbled lanes coiling to its crown, and a village inn, Hôtel des Deux Rocs, that only the stone-hearted will be able to resist.

If you have any gas left in your proverbial tank, you can circle back south (Fayence is best seen from a distance) to cClaviers and dCallas, yet more picturesque villages.

East of Draguignan

The hills and villages to the east and south of Draguignan fall into the terrain of the Dracénie region. As you depart the city sprawl nearest the autoroute, you'll emerge into a picturesque spread of vineyards and hilltop villages.

Les Arcs-sur-Argens & La Motte

The extended urban development around Les Arcs and La Motte is nothing special, but the nearby area (such as the stretch along the D25) is rich in vineyards and wine-tasting opportunities. There are some great restaurants, and the medieval quarter of Les Arcs is a fun stroll. St Roseline was born there in 1263 in the 12th-century château where she later performed the 'miracle of roses': turning bread into roses.

1Sights & Activities

oChapelle de Ste-RoselineCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 73 37 30; chemin de Ste-Roseline, D91, Les Arcs-sur-Argens; h2.30-6pm Tue-Sun Feb-Dec)F

A 1975 mosaic by Marc Chagall illuminates this 13th-century Romanesque chapel, 4.5km east of Les Arcs-sur-Argens on the road to La Motte. The church contains the corpse of St Roseline (1263–1329), who was born at the château in Les Arcs and became a Carthusian nun and the mother superior here. She experienced visions during her lifetime and was said to be able to curtail demons. Concerts are held in the chapel in July and August.

oMaison des Vins Côtes de ProvenceWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 99 50 20; www.caveaucp.fr; N7, Les Arcs-sur-Argens; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

This bacchanalian House of Wines, 2.5km southwest of Les Arcs-sur-Argens on the N7, is a one-stop shop to taste, learn about and buy (at producers’ prices) Côtes de Provence wines. Each week 16 of the 800 wines from 250 wine estates are selected for tasting. Knowledgeable multilingual staff advise you on the dream dish to eat with each wine.

Château Ste-RoselineWINERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 99 50 30; www.sainte-roseline.com; D91, Les Arcs-sur-Argens; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon & 2-6pm Sat & Sun)

Sample and buy a prestigious cru classé (top vintage) wine, produced here since the 14th century. The château adjoins the Chapelle de Ste-Roseline.

4Sleeping & Eating

Le Mas du PéréB&B€€

(%04 94 84 33 52; www.lemasdupere.com; 280 chemin du Péré, La Motte; d incl breakfast from €94, studios per week from €535; aisc)

Signposted from the centre of La Motte village, this is a convenient spot from which to go wine tasting in the region. Perfectly clean, well-appointed rooms in muted tones look out on the pool. Some have dappled terraces, and studios have kitchenettes.

oLogis du GuetteurTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 94 99 51 10; www.logisduguetteur.com; place du Château, Les Arcs-sur-Argens; menus from €35; hnoon-2pm & 7.15-9.30pm daily Feb-Dec; aW)

This super restaurant perches on the tippety top of Les Arcs in a 12th-century château. In winter dine in the renovated cave (wine cellar) beneath oil paintings of white peacocks and cornucopia, and in summer out on the terrace with views all around. Food is impeccable, service attentive and the ambience one of a kind. Stay over in simple rooms (€130 to €185).

oDomaine de la MauretteBISTRO€€

(%04 94 45 92 82; www.vins-maurette.fr; rte de Callas, D25, La Motte; lunch menus €13, 3-course menus from €26; hnoon-2pm daily, 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun)

For an authentic Provençal feast, head east out of La Motte along the D47 to this rustic wine estate on the intersection of the D47 and D25. Taste and buy wine, and eat on a vine-covered terrace in a roadside inn with attached winery, where the atmosphere of chattering people enjoying wholesome, homemade food is nothing short of electric.

Callas

From the central village square in Callas (population 1400) you get a stunning panorama of the red-rock Massif de l’Estérel. The village lanes wind up the hill in a warren of bends. At the southern foot of Callas is Moulin de Callas (%04 94 39 03 20; www.moulindecallas.com; Quartier les Ferrages, D25, Callas; h10am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep, reduced hours rest of year), where Nicole and Serge’s family have cultivated olives to make oil since 1928. Learn about olive oil (tours are by appointment) and buy it in the on-site shop, as well as a broad selection of other Provençal goods. Callas Tourist Office (%04 94 39 06 77; callastourisme@dracenie.com; place du 18 Juin 1940) has info on the region.

Bargemon

The medieval village of Bargemon (population 1100) juts onto a promontory, from which you have excellent views across the valley to Claviers. Market day is Thursday.

Don't miss La Pescalune (%06 29 94 66 64; www.la-pescalune.fr; 13 rue de la Résistance; mains €15-25; hnoon-2pm Thu & Sun, 7-9.30pm Tue-Sun), an intimate bistro alongside the church where popular chef Virginie Martinetti creates seasonal, market-fresh cuisine with a twist.

For those who fancy a day cycling, the tourist office (%04 94 47 81 73; www.ot-bargemon.fr; av Pasteur; h9.15am-12.15pm & 2.15-6pm Mon-Fri) rents bikes.

Seillans

Adjoining the Seillans tourist office is a gallery (www.seillans.fr; adult/child €3/free; h2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat) of work by Dorothea Tanning and Max Ernst, who lived here in the 1960s and '70s.

Hôtel des Deux Rocs (%04 94 76 87 32; www.hoteldeuxrocs.com; 1 place Font d’Amont; d €75-130; hnoon-2pm Wed-Sun, 7-9.30pm Tue-Sun Feb-Dec), a boutique hotel with fig-flower Fragonard soap in the bathrooms, a fine collection of B&W family photos and a gourmet restaurant (mains €17 to €20), wins the prize hands down for most atmospheric village inn. Scipion, knight of the Flotte d’Agout, lived here in the 17th century. Today, the soulful bastide is home to the Malzacs, who run this 13-room hotel with extraordinary panache. Summer dining is alfresco around a fountain.

West of Draguignan

The quaint villages and rolling hills west of Draguignan ascend north toward the Gorges du Verdon, a worthwhile visit in its own right. The region encompasses the area known as Provence Verte and some of the Coeur du Var, and is renowned for its wine and truffles, so expect excellent meals and markets.

Lorgues & Around

Bustling Lorgues (population 9340), 13km west of Draguignan, is fountain filled and crowned by a beautiful church. The tourist office has maps of walks, and a list of the numerous village hotels. The large weekly market fills the centre of town Tuesday mornings.

1Sights

oAbbaye de ThoronetHISTORIC SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 60 43 90; http://thoronet.monuments-nationaux.fr; Le Thoronet; adult/child €7.50/free; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon & 2-6.30pm Sun Apr-Sep, reduced hours Oct-May)

The simplest in a trio of great Cistercian abbeys (the other two are Silvacane and Notre-Dame de Sénanque), uninhabited Abbaye de Thoronet, 12km southwest of Lorgues, was built between 1160 and 1190. It’s remarkable for its ultra-austere architecture: pure proportions, perfectly dressed stone and the subtle fall of light and shadow are where its beauty lies.

Domaine de l'AbbayeWINERY

(%04 94 73 87 36; rte de Carcès, D84, Le Thoronet; h9am-noon & 1-6pm Mon-Sat, by appointment Sun)

Excellent wines are produced in vineyards originally cultivated by monks in the 12th century.

4Sleeping & Eating

oChez BrunoGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 94 85 93 93; www.restaurantbruno.com; rte des Arcs, D10; menus €73-160; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm daily mid-Jun–mid-Sep, closed Mon & dinner Sun mid-Sep–mid-Jun)

France’s most famous truffle restaurant can be found in a country house 2.5km southeast of Lorgues. In his Michelin-starred restaurant, chef Bruno Clément cooks almost exclusively with those knobbly, pungent delicacies, getting through an incredible 1000kg of the world’s most expensive foodstuff every year. Unable to move after your black-diamond feast? Stay in one of the lovely rooms (€160 to €320).

8Information

Lorgues Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 94 73 92 37; www.lorgues-tourisme.fr; 12 rue du 8 Mai; h9am-12.15pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat, plus 9am-12.15pm Sun Jul & Aug)

Near the southern entrance to town; has maps of walks and a list of hotels.

Tourtour

Tourtour (population 536) is a beautiful amber-stoned village with a churchyard stretching across a promontory offering panoramic views. It makes a handy place to break your journey, stroll the cobbled lanes filled with galleries and shops, or indulge your truffle fancy. Market days are Wednesday and Saturday mornings.

4Sleeping & Eating

Restaurants congregate on the shady place des Ormeaux on the upper edge of town.

Maison de la TreilleB&B€€

(%04 89 53 02 37; www.tourtour.fr; rue Grande 22; d incl breakfast €100; hMar-Nov; W)

The hefty brass knocker piercing the olive-green front door, the lush bush of lavender outside and the covered breakfast terrace on the top floor immediately catch the eye at this charming maison d’hôte in one of the Northern Var’s most beautiful hilltop villages.

L’AlechouBISTRO€

(%04 94 70 54 76; 16 rue Grande; mains €9-15; hlunch & dinner daily)

On the cuter-than-cute main street, overwhelmingly friendly L'Alechou is a perfect spot for lunch between flowerpots.

Les Chênes VertsGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 94 70 55 06; rte de Villecroze, D51; menus €60-160; hnoon-1.45pm & 7.30-9pm Thu-Mon Aug-May)

It might seem odd that this walled property shuts in June and July. But there is good reason. 'The Green Oaks' is famed for its luxurious truffle cuisine: winter food! The stiff waiters and eclectic decor are hardly wowing, but the cuisine is irreproachable, hence it's earned one Michelin star.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 94 70 59 47; www.tourisme-tourtour.com; montée de St-Dénis; h10am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Jun-Aug, reduced rest of year)

Stocked with accommodation and activity listings.

Aups

Amber-hued Aups (population 2170) is a gateway to the Gorges du Verdon to the north, but from November to late February those alien-looking nuggets of black fungus, Tuber melanosporum, take top billing. They can be viewed (and bought, if you have the coin) at the Thursday-morning truffle market on Aups' central plane tree–studded square. Truffle hunts and pig-snouting demonstrations lure a crowd on the fourth Sunday in January during Aups’ Journée de la Truffe (Day of the Truffle).

The tourist office (%04 94 84 00 69; www.aups-tourisme.com; place Frédéric Mistral; h9am-12.15pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat Sep-Jun, to 7pm Mon-Sat & 9am-12.30pm Sun Jul & Aug), on the central square, has information on other gastronomic festivities and a list of local truffle hunters.

Entrecasteaux

Entrecasteaux (population 1100), with its giant 17th-century château, old stone houses sun-baked every shade of gold, and fountain-clad square, perches dramatically over a river. Grab a coffee at the green-canopied Bar Central (%04 94 04 43 53; h8am-10pm) – you won't get more local than this – which overlooks the château's manicured gardens. The village is known for its honey. Pick some up at local producers like Les Ruchers d'Entrecasteaux ( GOOGLE MAP ; %06 87 43 88 94; Chemin des Plantades, St-Antonin du Var), just southeast of town. Surrounding wineries include the yellow-stone farmhouse at Domaine de Roucas ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 04 48 14; rte de Carcès, D31; h9am-6pm), which welcomes tasters.

Cotignac

Parts of the tiny stone village of Cotignac (population 2000) are dramatically built into tuffa cliff faces. The River Cassole carves its heart, and villagers stroll the tree-lined promenade of cours Gambetta. The Tuesday-morning market is lively, and the tourist office has maps of walks to the village's chapels and fountains. Les Vignerons de Cotignac (%04 94 04 60 04; http://vignerons.cotignac-info.com; 1 rue Arnoux Borghino; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug, reduced hours rest of year), on the upper edge of the village, is the spot to buy the local rosé.

4Sleeping

Hostellerie de CotignacHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 04 27 04; www.hostellerie-decotignac.fr; 2 cours Gambetta; d from €100; aW)

This well-run hotel is perfectly situated in the center of Cotignac and offers impeccably maintained modern rooms with luxe bathrooms, and an in-house restaurant. Step out your door onto the central square, which fills with the weekly market or coffee-sipping locals.

Mas de l'OlivetteB&B€€

(%04 94 80 28 73; www.masdelolivette.com; rte d'Entrecasteaux, D50; d €100, studios per week €800; aWsc)

The lovely Jean-Claude and Yannick welcome you so warmly to their tiny B&B that it feels like home. The two impeccable, beautifully appointed guest rooms can adjoin for families. The spotless free-standing studio has kitchen and terrace. Views stretch through the olive groves, and bathrooms are kitted out with L'Occitane products.

5Eating

oLe Clos des VignesTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 94 04 72 19; www.restaurant-le-clos-des-vignes.fr; rte de Monfort, D22; lunch/dinner menus from €18/24; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun)

Seek out this farmhouse for the home-cooked cuisine (by husband Jean-Luc) and the warm welcome (by wife Dany). Dining is on the terrace, which is enclosed in winter, and the rhythm is slow and easy: French country life at its finest. Look for the signed dedication by Brad and Angelina, who are patrons and neighbours.

La Table des CoquelicotsTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 94 69 46 07; 10 cours Gambetta; lunch/dinner menus €14/27; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm daily, closed Tue dinner & Wed Sep-May)

Choose between the elegant, muted-tone dining room or the terrace under the plane trees for people-watching. Open year-round, La Table offers classic food...and enormous profiteroles.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 94 04 61 87; http://ot-cotignac.provenceverte.fr; Pont de la Cassole, 475 rte de Carcès; h9am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun Jul & Aug, reduced hours rest of year)

Near the bridge at the southern end of the village.

Correns

In 1997 the mayor of Correns (population 889), on the banks of the River Argens, decided to make the village’s 200 hectares of AOC Côtes de Provence vineyards organic. Local farmers have also since turned organic to produce honey, chicken, eggs, olive oil and goat cheese.

The most prestigious vineyard, Château de Miraval (www.miraval-provence.com), was a monastery in the 13th century, then legendary Miraval recording studio, where Pink Floyd recorded part of The Wall in 1979. It shut its doors to passers-by when Brad Pitt, Angelina Jolie and kids moved into the dreamy gold-stone property on the vast 400-hectare estate in 2008, but it still makes wine. The couple wed at Miraval in 2014.

2Activities

oVallon SournOUTDOORS

( GOOGLE MAP ; D45, west of Correns)

The wonderfully cool Vallon Sourn, where the green waters of the Argens flow peacefully, is perfect for walking, cycling and even summertime bathing. A scenic drive/ride from Correns village will get you there: head north on the D45 towards Châteauvert.

Vignerons de CorrensWINERY

(%04 94 59 59 46; www.vigneronsdecorrens.fr; chemin de l’Église, Correns; h2.30-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Sat)

Taste and buy Château de Miraval and other big Correns wine names such as Domaine de la Grande Pallière at wine cooperative and shop Vignerons de Correns. Also has branches in Le Val and Aups.

Les Caves du CommandeurWINERY

(%04 94 59 54 46; 18 rue des Moulins, D22, Montfort-sur-Argens; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat)

This domaine of AOC Côtes de Provence and IGP Var wines has a giant, modern facility dedicated to tasting in Montfort-sur-Argens, 6km east of Correns.

4Sleeping & Eating

Auberge de CorrensTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 94 59 53 52; www.aubergedecorrens.fr; 34 place du Général de Gaulle; mains €11-18; hnoon-1.45pm & 7-8.45pm Thu-Mon, daily Jul & Aug)

Lunch well, and predominantly organically, at Auberge de Correns, where the cuisine is innovative and market driven, the wine list features local varieties and mains are as sizeable as the five elegant guest rooms (doubles €85).

8Information

Correns Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 94 37 21 31; www.correns.fr; 2 rue Cabassonne; h9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Thu Jul & Aug, Tue-Sat rest of year)

Has lists of estates for tasting and buying wine.

La Celle

Forge your way through the urban sprawl of Brignoles to reach the recently restored 12th-century Romanesque Ancienne Abbaye de la Celle (%04 94 59 19 05; hby tour only 11am, 2.30pm, 3.30pm & 4.30pm Tue-Sat). For a special treat, dine or stay at fabled Hostellerie de l'Abbaye de la Celle (%04 98 05 14 14; www.abbaye-celle.com; 19 place du Général de Gaulle; lunch/dinner menus from €38/70; hlunch & dinner daily, closed Tue & Wed winter). Superstar chef Alain Ducasse is the creative energy behind this refined four-star restaurant-hotel. Afterwards try one of the 88 local vintages at La Maison des Vins des Coteaux Varois en Provence (%04 94 69 33 18; Abbaye de La Celle; h10am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat).

Massif des Maures

Shrouded by a forest of pine, chestnut and cork oak trees, the Massif des Maures arcs inland between Hyères and Fréjus. Roamed by wild boars, its near-black vegetation gives rise to its name, derived from the Provençal word mauro (dark pine wood). Traditional industries (chestnut harvests, cork, pipe-making) are their lifeblood.

DON'T MISS

WONDERFUL ROADWAYS

The D14 runs through Collobrières, the largest town in the massif and chestnut capital of the universe, and is graced with superb panoramas. It's particularly popular with cyclists. Similarly dramatic, the D39 from Collobrières soars north to Notre Dame des Anges (780m) before plunging down to Gonfaron. Running parallel to the D14, the N98 skims through vineyards and cork oak plantations from St-Tropez to Bormes-les-Mimosas.

From La Môle – where you can find a delicious meal at Auberge de la Môle (%04 94 49 57 01; place de l’Église, La Môle; lunch/dinner menus €23/55; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun) – the breathtakingly narrow Col du Canadel (D27) dives dramatically to the coast, dishing up unbeatable views of the Massif des Maures, coastline and offshore islands.

La Garde Freinet

Conservatoire du Patrimoine du FreinetWALKING, COURSE

(%04 94 43 08 57; www.conservatoiredufreinet.org; Chapelle St-Jean, place de la Mairie; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Local traditions unfold in the village of La Garde Freinet (topped by the 13th-century ruins of Fort Freinet) at this environment-driven set-up that hosts exhibitions (flora, fauna, cork harvesting) and organises themed discovery walks (adult/child €9/4.50) and workshops (free to €90; for example, art in nature, drystone walls, honey making, forest photography).

Village des Tortues

Village des TortuesWILDLIFE RESERVE

(%04 94 78 26 41; www.villagetortues.com; Gonfaron; adult/child €12/8; h9am-7pm Mar-Nov, to 6pm Dec-Feb)

About 20km north of Collobrières, this sanctuary protects one of France’s most endangered species, the Hermann tortoise (Testudo hermanni). Once common along the Mediterranean coast, it is today found only in the Massif des Maures and on Corsica. In summer the best time to see the tortoises is in the morning and late afternoon. Watch them hatch from mid-May to the end of June. A great palaeontology trail has vicious-looking models of the tortoise’s ancestors lurking among the bushes.

The site has a well-documented trail from the clinic, where wounded tortoises are treated, to egg hatcheries and nurseries, where young tortoises (a delicacy for magpies, rats, foxes and wild boars) spend the first three of their 60 to 100 years.

Collobrières & Around

Hidden in the forest, the leafy village of Collobrières (population 1950) is the place to taste chestnuts. Across the 11th-century bridge, the tourist office can help you participate in the October chestnut harvest, celebrated with the Fête de la Châtaigne, or join a guided forest walk.

1Sights & Activities

oMonastère de la VerneMONASTERY

(%04 94 43 45 51; http://la.verne.free.fr; off D14; adult/child €6/3; h11am-6pm Wed-Mon Jun-Aug, to 5pm Wed-Mon Feb-May & Sep-Dec)

Majestic, 12th- to 13th-century Monastère de la Verne perches unbelievably on the hip of a mountain deep in the forest, but with a view to the sea. The Carthusian monastery was founded in 1170, possibly on the site of a temple to the goddess Laverna, protector of the bandits who hid in the Maures. The Huguenots destroyed most of the original charterhouse in 1577. Since 1982 the solitary complex has been home to 24 nuns of the Sisters of Bethlehem.

The monastery's restoration has been a labour of love. A 20-minute video details the work. Highlights include the austere Romanesque church, the prior’s cell, complete with a small formal garden and workshop, the bakery and the olive mill. The shop (closed Sunday) is full of excellent artisanal food, soaps, art and crafts made by the nuns. Walking trails lead from the monastery into its forested surroundings.

From Collobrières, follow rte de Grimaud (D14) east for 6km, then turn right (south) on to the D214 and drive another 6km to the monastery; park at the lot and walk the final section, which is unpaved.

Forest WalksWALKING

The Collobrières tourist office gives hiking directions to the Châtaignier de Madame, the biggest chestnut tree in Provence, with a mighty 10.4m circumference; and the two biggest menhirs (each over 3m) in the Var region, now heritage-listed monuments, which were raised between 3000 BC and 2000 BC. Three shorter walking trails are mapped on the noticeboard outside.

4Sleeping

The tourist office lists local gîtes (cottages) and B&Bs online.

Hôtel Les MauresHOTEL€

(%04 94 48 07 10; www.hoteldesmaures.fr; 19 blvd Lazare Carnot, Collobrières; d €40; aW)

This no-frills central hotel is basic but clean, and has a popular brasserie.

Hôtel Notre DameHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 48 07 13; www.hotel-notre-dame.eu; 15 av de la Libération, Collobrières; d from €98; aWs)

The town's most high-end option has rooms decorated around rich colour schemes.

5Eating

Les OlivadesBISTRO€

(place de la Libération, Collobrières; menus from €13.50; hnoon-2pm daily, plus 7-9pm Jun-Aug)

This refreshingly down-to-earth little bistro sits on the main square and dishes up simple, inexpensive local fare.

oLa Petite FontaineTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 94 48 00 12; place de la République, Collobrières; 3/5-course menus €27/33; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun Apr-Sep, noon-2.30pm Tue-Sat, 7-10pm Fri & Sat Oct-Mar)

Locals throng from miles around to sit at a tree-shaded table and feast on seasonal forest mushrooms and chestnuts at one of southern France’s most charming, relaxed village inns. The walls inside are exposed stone, and the fruit tarts for dessert…out of this world. Reservations essential. No credit cards.

We dare you to try the broussain: leftover cheeses mixed with Marc de Provence liqueur, olive oil and garlic – pungent!

Ferme de PeïgrosREGIONAL CUISINE€€

(%04 94 48 03 83; http://fermedepeigros.pagesperso-orange.fr; Col de Babaou; menus €22; hnoon-2pm daily, plus 7-9.30pm Jul & Aug)

Treat your taste buds to wild boar or farm-made chestnut ice cream and grand massif views at this goat farm 1.8km along a gravel track from the top of the Col de Babaou (8km from Collobrières). No credit cards.

7Shopping

Confiserie AzuréenneFOOD

(%04 94 48 07 20; www.confiserieazureenne.com; h9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-6.15pm)

This local producer of chestnut products has a well-stocked shop of marrons glacés (candied chestnuts), chestnut ice cream, crème de marrons (chestnut cream), chestnut liqueur etc, and a small free museum showing how chestnuts are processed.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 94 48 08 00; www.collobrieres-tourisme.com; bd Charles Caminat; h9am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm Tue-Sun, closed Sun & Mon Sep-Jun)

Has maps for local walks.

Corniche des Maures

The Corniche des Maures (D559) unwinds beautifully southwest from La Croix-Valmer to Le Lavandou along a shoreline trimmed with sandy beaches ideal for swimming, sunbathing and windsurfing.

The coastal D559 is served by VarLib buses (www.varlib.fr) running between St-Tropez and Toulon.

Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer to Le Lavandou

Tiny Plage du Rayol and Plage de l’Escale are particularly enchanting beaches: they’re backed by pine trees and have a restaurant on the sand. As the D559 hugs the coast going west, you'll reach Plage du Layet, the beautiful beach at Cavalière (not to be confused with Cavalaire-sur-Mer).

Once a fishing village, Le Lavandou is now an overbuilt family-oriented beach resort with a small but intact old town and 12km of golden sand. The faux castle on the seafront is the tourist office (%04 94 00 40 50; www.ot-lelavandou.fr; quai Gabriel Péri; h9am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Sat). Opposite, boats sail to the Îles des Hyères.

1Sights

oDomaine du RayolGARDENS

(%04 98 04 44 00; www.domainedurayol.org; av des Belges, Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer; adult/child €10.50/7.50; h9.30am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, to 6.30pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar)

This stunning, lush garden, with plants from all Mediterranean climates the world round, is wonderful for a stroll or a themed nature walk. The dense flora cascade down the hillside from a villa to the sea, and while the flowers are at their best in April and May, it’s always worth a visit. In summer, at the estate’s gem of a beach, you can snorkel around underwater flora and fauna with an experienced guide; bookings are essential.

Also reserve ahead for open-air musical concerts or in-depth workshops. The estate’s Café des Jardiniers serves light organic lunches and refreshing hibiscus-peach infusions.

4Sleeping & Eating

Le Relais des MauresINN€€

(%04 94 05 61 27; www.lerelaisdesmaures.fr; av Charles Koeklin, Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer; r €105)

This inn, tucked just off the southern side of the D559, has homey guest rooms, some with sea views, and an excellent restaurant (menus from €32) that is worth a stop in its own right for its seasonally changing menus of locally sourced produce.

Chez JoSEAFOOD€€

(%04 94 05 85 06; Plage du Layet, Cavalière; mains €20-30; hnoon-2pm May-Sep)

Buzzing with barefoot, overly bronzed, sarong-clad beach lovers with unexpected piercings and a fondness for nude bathing, this beach restaurant grills everything up straight from the sea. It's bare bones and without a sign in sight to tell you it’s here; dining is around a few tables on the sand or on a wooden deck above the water. No credit cards.

WORTH A TRIP

ROUTE DES CRêTES

For breathtaking views of the islands, follow Route des Crêtes as it winds its way through maquis-covered hills some 400m above the sea. From Bormes-les-Mimosas, follow the D41 uphill (direction Collobrières) past the Chapelle St-François and, 1.5km north of the village centre, turn immediately right after the sign for Col de Caguo-Ven (237m).

Relais du Vieux Sauvaire ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 94 05 84 22; rte des Crêtes; mains €17-32; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9.30pm Jun-Sep; s) is the hidden gem of these hills. With 180-degree views you could only dream of, this restaurant and pool (most people come for lunch and then stay all afternoon) is one of a kind. The food is as sunny as the views: pizzas, melon and Parma ham, or whole sea bass in salt crust.

Past the restaurant, Route des Crêtes joins the final leg of the panoramic Col du Canadel road. On the col (mountain pass), turn left to plunge into the heart of the forested Massif des Maures or right to the sea and the coastal Corniche des Maures (D559).

Bormes-les-Mimosas

Pop 7845 / Elev 180m

This 12th-century village is spectacularly flowered with mimosas in winter, deep-fuchsia bougainvilleas in summer. Its tourist office takes bookings for botanical walks (€9) and hikes (€7) with a forest warden in the nearby Forêt du Dom.

Old cobbled streets are lined with artists galleries and boutiques selling traditional Provençal products.

4Sleeping & Eating

oHôtel BellevueHOTEL€

(%04 94 71 15 15; www.bellevuebormes.com; place Gambetta; d/q from €65/90; hJan-Sep; aWc)

Utterly charming, this sweet hotel has sensational views, spotless, pretty rooms and friendly service. Two rooms are wheelchair accessible. There's a restaurant too.

Hostellerie du CigalouHOTEL€€€

(%04 94 41 51 27; www.hostellerieducigalou.com; place Gambetta; d €189-245; aWs)

A plush hotel with fantastic views and a dreamy pool.

5Eating

oLa RastègueGASTRONOMIC€€

(%04 94 15 19 41; www.larastegue.com; 48 bd du Levant; menus €35-49; h7-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-1.45pm Thu & Sun Apr-Nov)

Jérôme Masson rules over the kitchen, his wife, Patricia, over the dining room, and they sure do excel. They've earned a Michelin star with their ever-changing menu of superb Provençal fare, inviting dining room and sea-view terrace. The open kitchen allows you to see the chef at work.

oL'Atelier de Cuisine GourmandePROVENçAL€€

(%04 94 71 27 80; 4 place Gambetta; mains €18-20; hby reservation noon-2pm Sep-Jun)

Mireille Gedda offers the most authentic of local cuisine, with flavours from the terroir (land). Her husband serves. She also runs classes.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 94 01 38 38; www.bormeslesmimosas.com; 1 place Gambetta; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm daily Apr-Sep, Mon-Sat Oct-Mar; W)

Organises local walks.

St-Tropez to Toulon

St-Tropez to Toulon

Why Go?

Driving Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

Best Places to Stay

St-Tropez to Toulon Highlights

Presqu’île de St-Tropez

St-Tropez

ONLINE RESOURCES

HEADLESS HERO

GLITZY LIVING

ST-TROPEZ BEACH CLUBS

GETTING TO ST-TROPEZ

The Peninsula

Plage de Pampelonne & Around

MARKET DAYS NEAR ST-TROPEZ

Ramatuelle

Gassin

Gigaro & Cap Lardier

Golfe de St-Tropez

Grimaud

Haut-Var

2Driving TourHaut-Var Hilltop Villages

East of Draguignan

Les Arcs-sur-Argens & La Motte

Callas

Bargemon

Seillans

West of Draguignan

Lorgues & Around

Tourtour

Aups

Entrecasteaux

Cotignac

Correns

La Celle

Massif des Maures

DON'T MISS

WONDERFUL ROADWAYS

La Garde Freinet

Village des Tortues

Collobrières & Around

Corniche des Maures

Rayol-Canadel-sur-Mer to Le Lavandou

WORTH A TRIP

ROUTE DES CRêTES

Bormes-les-Mimosas

`2`Driving Tour
Haut-Var Hilltop Villages