Pays d’Aix
Picturesque Pays d’Aix (Aix Country), within which oh-so-elegant Aix-en-Provence is ensconced, sits 25km or so north of Marseille.
Aix-en-Provence
Pop 145,273
A pocket of left-bank Parisian chic deep in Provence, Aix (pronounced like the letter X) is all class: its leafy boulevards and public squares are lined with 17th- and 18th-century mansions, punctuated by gurgling moss-covered fountains. Haughty stone lions guard its grandest avenue, cafe-laced cours Mirabeau, where fashionable Aixois pose on polished pavement terraces sipping espresso. While Aix is a student hub, its upscale appeal makes it pricier than other Provençal towns.
CéZANNE SIGHTS
The life of local lad Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) is treasured in Aix. To see where he ate, drank, studied and painted, follow the Circuit de Cézanne (Cézanne Trail), marked by bronze plaques embedded in the footpath. The essential English-language guide to the plaques and other artist-related sites, In the Steps of Cézanne, is free at the tourist office.
Atelier CézanneMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%04 42 21 06 53; www.atelier-cezanne.com; 9 av Paul Cézanne; adult/child €5.50/free; 
h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, reduced hours rest of year)
Cézanne’s last studio, 1.5km north of the tourist office on a hilltop, was painstakingly preserved (and recreated: not all the tools and still-life models strewn around the room were his) as it was at the time of this death. Though the studio is inspiring, none of his works hang there. Take bus 1 or 20 to the Atelier Cézanne stop or walk from town.
Terrain des PeintresGARDENS
F
The Terrain des Peintres is a wonderful terraced garden perfect for a picnic, from where Cézanne, among others, painted the Montagne Ste-Victoire. The view of the jagged mountain is inspirational. The gardens are opposite 62 av Paul Cézanne. You'll find it a 10-minute walk uphill from the Atelier Cézanne stop (bus 1 or 20).
Bastide du Jas de BouffanHISTORIC BUILDING
(%04 42 16 11 61; www.cezanne-en-provence.com; adult/child €6/free; hguided tours from 10.30am daily Jun-Sep, Tue, Thu & Sat May & Oct, Wed & Sat Nov-Mar; 
g6, stop Corsy)
In 1859 Cézanne’s father bought Le Jas de Bouffan, a country manor west of Aix' centre where Cézanne painted furiously in the decades that followed, producing 36 oils and 17 watercolours depicting the house, farm, chestnut alley, green park and so forth. Visits are by guided tour only and should be reserved in advance at the tourist office. Take bus 6 from La Rotonde (av Victor Hugo) to the Corsy stop or walk the 20 minutes from town.
Carrières de BibemusMINE
(Bibémus Quarries; %04 42 16 11 61; www.cezanne-en-provence.com; 3090 chemin de Bibémus; adult/child €6/free; htours from 9.45am daily Jun-Sep, from 10.30am Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun Apr-May & Oct, from 3pm Wed & Sat Nov-Mar)
In 1895 Cézanne rented a cabanon (cabin) at Les Carrières de Bibemus, on the edge of town, where he painted prolifically. Atmospheric one-hour tours of the ochre quarry take visitors on foot through the dramatic burnt-orange rocks Cézanne captured so vividly on canvas. Book tours in advance at the tourist office, wear sturdy shoes and avoid wearing white.
History
Aix marks the spot where Roman forces enslaved the inhabitants of the Ligurian Celtic stronghold of Entremont, 3km north. In 123 BC the military camp was named Aquae Sextiae (Waters of Sextius) for the thermal springs that still flow today. In the 12th century the counts of Provence proclaimed Aix their capital, which it remained until the Revolution, when it was supplanted by Marseille. The city became a centre of culture under arts patron King René (1409–80): painter Paul Cézanne and novelist Émile Zola are its most famous sons.
Aix-en-Provence
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights & Activities
Art, culture and architecture abound in Aix. Of special note are the town's many fountains. Some, like the 1860 Fontaine de la Rotonde ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; pl du Général de Gaulle), are quite grand. Others, such as the 1819 Fontaine du Roi René ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cours Mirabeau) and the 1734 Fontaine d’Eau Chaude ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cours Mirabeau) have simpler charms (the former features the king holding a bunch of grapes, while the latter has warm – 18°C – water from a spring).
oVieil AixHISTORIC QUARTER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
The mostly pedestrianised old city of Aix is a stroller's and window-shopper's paradise of narrow boutique-lined lanes and hidden squares filled with cafes or markets.
oCours MirabeauHISTORIC QUARTER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
No avenue better epitomises Provence’s most graceful city than this fountain-studded street, sprinkled with Renaissance hôtels particuliers and crowned with a summertime roof of leafy plane trees. Named after the revolutionary hero Comte de Mirabeau, it was laid out in the 1640s. Cézanne and Zola hung out at Les Deux Garçons, one of a clutch of busy pavement cafes.
Among the most impressive hôtels particuliers is Hôtel d’Espargnet (1647) at No 38, now home to the university’s economics department. Photography and contemporary art get an airing inside Hôtel de Castillon, now the Galerie d’Art du Conseil Général des Bouches du Rhône (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 13 31 50 70; www.culture-13.fr; 21bis cours Mirabeau; h10.30am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat).
oQuartier MazarinHISTORIC QUARTER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
South of cours Mirabeau, Quartier Mazarin was laid out in the 17th century, and is home to some of Aix' finest buildings. Place des Quatre Dauphins ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) is particularly enchanting and has a fountain (1667) with water-spouting dolphins.
oMusée GranetMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr; place St-Jean de Malte; adult/child €5/free; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in a 17th-century priory of the Knights of Malta, this exceptional museum is named after the Provençal painter François Marius Granet (1775–1849), who donated a large number of works. Its collection includes 16th- to 20th-century Italian, Flemish and French works. Modern art reads like a who's who: Picasso, Léger, Matisse, Monet, Klee, Van Gogh and Giacometti, among others, as well as the museum’s pride and joy: nine Cézanne works. Excellent temporary exhibitions.
Cathédrale St-SauveurCHURCH
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; rue de la Roque; h8am-noon & 2-6pm)
Built between 1285 and 1350 in a potpourri of styles, this cathedral includes a Romanesque 12th-century nave in its southern aisle, chapels from the 14th and 15th centuries, and a 5th-century sarcophagus in the apse. More recent additions include the 18th-century gilt baroque organ. Acoustics make Sunday-afternoon Gregorian chants unforgettable.
Caumont Centre d'ArtMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 20 70 01; www.caumont-centredart.com; 3 rue Joseph Cabassol; adult/child €11/8.50; h10am-7pm May-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Apr)
Built over a period of 30 years beginning in 1715, the elegant Hôtel de Caumont was one of the finest residences during the heyday of the Quartier Mazarin. Now you can get a taste of this classic elegance thanks to years of restorations that were finished in 2015. There are grand galleries with rotating exhibits of high-end art; admission includes a tour of the opulent interior.
Fondation Victor VasarelyGALLERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 20 01 09; www.fondationvasarely.fr; 1 av Marcel Pagnol; adult/child €9/4; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun; 
s; g4 or 6, stop Vasarely)
This gallery, 4km west of the city, was designed by Hungarian optical-art innovator Victor Vasarely (1906–97). A masterpiece, its 16 interconnecting six-walled galleries were purpose built to display and reflect the patterning of the artist's 44 acid-trip-ready, floor-to-ceiling geometric artworks.
Parc JourdanPARK
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
South of Aix' centre is the peaceful Parc Jourdan, home to the town's Boulodrome Municipal ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), where locals gather beneath plane trees to play pétanque.
Thermes SextiusSPA
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 23 81 82; www.thermes-sextius.com; 55 av des Thermes; day pass from €99)
These modern thermal spas are built on the site of Roman Aquae Sextiae’s springs, the excavated remains of which are displayed beneath glass in the lobby.
AIX DISCOUNTS
The Cézanne Passport (per person €12) covers the artist's three main sights: the Atelier Cézanne, Jas de Bouffan and Carrières de Bibemus. Buy it at the tourist office or the first two listed Cézanne sights. The Aix-Aix Region Pass (per person €2) includes discounts on local museums and tourist-office–run walking tours.
FRENCH CONCENTRATION CAMP
Camp des MillesHISTORIC SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 39 17 11; www.campdesmilles.org; 40 chemin de la Badesse, Les Milles; adult/child €9.50/7.50; h10am-7pm, ticket office closes 6pm)
Eight kilometres southwest of Aix, this tile factory in Les Milles manufactured 30,000 tonnes of bricks and tiles per year from 1882 until 31 August 1939, when it was turned into a WWII concentration camp. Unnervingly intact, the camp has been preserved as a memorial. Modern exhibits and historical documents illustrate how 10,000 prisoners from 38 countries were held here. Poignant paintings and prose inscribed on the walls by prisoners remain untouched, as does one of the wagons used to transport 2000 prisoners by rail from Les Milles to Auschwitz.
Among the artists and intellectuals interned at Camp des Milles was surrealist painter Max Ernst (1891–1976). Several exhibits are free.
TTours
Tourist Office ToursWALKING TOUR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 300 av Giuseppe Verdi; adult/child €9/5)
The tourist office runs a regular schedule of guided walking tours in English, covering Cézanne and the old town. Most start on particular days of the week at 10am.
Mini-TramTOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 01 09 98; www.cpts.fr; adult/child €7/3; h10am-4pm late-Mar–mid-Nov)
Departs from place du Général de Gaulle in front of the Apple Store and winds through the Quartier Mazarin, along cours Mirabeau and around Vieil Aix. Multilingual.
zFestivals & Events
oFestival d’Aix-en-ProvencePERFORMING ARTS
(%04 34 08 02 17; www.festival-aix.com; hJul)
World-renowned month-long festival of classical music, opera, ballet and buskers.
4Sleeping
Hôtel les Quatre DauphinsBOUTIQUE HOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 38 16 39; www.lesquatredauphins.fr; 54 rue Roux Alphéran; s €62-72, d €72-87; 
a
W)
This sweet 13-room hotel slumbers in a former private mansion in one of the loveliest parts of town. Rooms are fresh and clean, with excellent modern bathrooms. Those with sloping, beamed ceilings in the attic are quaint but not for those who cannot pack light – the terracotta-tiled staircase is not suitcase friendly.
Hôtel CardinalHOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 38 32 30; www.hotel-cardinal-aix.com; 24 rue Cardinale; s/d €68/78; W)
Slightly rumpled rooms are quaintly furnished with antiques and tasselled curtains. There are also six gigantic suites in the annexe up the street, each with a kitchenette and dining room – ideal for longer stays.
Hôtel PaulHOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 23 23 89; http://www.aix-en-provence.com/hotelpaul/; 10 av Pasteur; s/d/tr from €55/65/77; W)
On the edge of Vieil Aix, this bright, 24-room bargain has a quiet garden and a TV lounge. Fans in summer. Free motorcycle and bike parking. No credit cards.
oL'ÉpicerieB&B€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %06 08 85 38 68; www.unechambreenville.eu; 12 rue du Cancel; d €100-130; W
c)
This intimate B&B is the fabulous creation of born-and-bred Aixois lad Luc. His breakfast room recreates a 1950s grocery store, and the flowery garden out the back is perfect for excellent evening dining and weekend brunch (book ahead for both). Breakfast is a veritable feast. Two rooms accommodate families of four.
Hôtel des AugustinsHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 27 28 59; www.hotel-augustins.com; 3 rue de la Masse; d €109-249; aW)
A heartbeat from the hub of Aixois life, this 15th-century convent building with magnificent stone-vaulted lobby and sweeping staircase has volumes of history: Martin Luther stayed here after his excommunication from Rome. Filled with hand-painted furniture, the largest, most luxurious rooms have spa baths; two rooms have private terraces beneath the filigreed bell tower.
Hôtel Saint-ChristopheHOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 26 01 24; www.hotel-saintchristophe.com; 2 av Victor Hugo; r €108-178; aWc)
The Saint-Christophe is a proper hotel, with a big lobby and a central location. Rooms nod to art deco in their styling, and have the standard midbudget amenities, including good bathrooms; some have terraces, some can sleep four. Parking (€14) by reservation.
oVilla GalliciHISTORIC HOTEL€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 23 29 23; www.villagallici.com; 18 av de la Violette; r €235-700; aWs)
Your palatial estate just north of town, this 200-year-old villa has a beautiful pool and garden area. The buildings are decorated in a traditional and opulent manner; rooms brim with luxuries and yes, that lavender you smell grows naturally outside your window. It's a relaxed 500m walk to the centre.
Hôtel CézanneBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 91 11 11; www.hotelaix.com; 40 av Victor Hugo; r €150-280; a
iW)
Purple flags fly proud outside Aix’ swishest hotel, a contemporary study in clean lines, with sharp-edged built-in desks, top-end fabrics and design-driven decor. In any other city its location next to the train station would be deemed a flaw. Reserve ahead for free parking.
Hôtel AquabellaHOTEL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 99 15 00; www.aquabella.fr; 3 rue des Étuves; d/tr €210/230)
Should wallowing like a Roman in Aix-en-Provence's thermal waters tickle your fancy, check into this three-star hotel adjoining the Thermes Sextius spa. Rates include spa access and there is really nothing more delightful after a hard day boutique shopping than a lounge in the eucalypt-scented hammam (Turkish steambath)followed by a dip in the pool, with a view of Roman ruins.
SWEET TREAT
Aix's sweetest treat since King René's wedding banquet in 1473 is the marzipan-like local speciality, calisson d'Aix, a small, diamond-shaped, chewy delicacy made on a wafer base with ground almonds and fruit syrup, and glazed with icing sugar. Traditional calissonniers still make them, including Roy René (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.calisson.com; 13 rue Gaston de Saporta; h9.30am-1pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun), which has a tiny museum, and a factory on the edge of town that is open for tours (€5).
5Eating
Aix excels at Provençal cuisine, and restaurant terraces spill out across dozens of charm-heavy old-town squares, many pierced by an ancient stone fountain: place des Trois Ormeaux, place des Augustins, place Ramus and vast Forum des Cardeurs are particular favourites.
oMaison NoshCAFE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %06 52 86 22 39; www.maison-nosh.com; 42-44 cours Sextius; mains from €5; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Bright and welcoming, this bakery-cafe dishes up tasty casual fare with a dash of wit. Coffee drinks and juices are served throughout the day along with beautiful baked goods. From 11am, the kitchen serves hot and simple meals such as the best hot dog you'll ever have (it comes on a wooden platter), as well as sandwiches and salads.
oJacquou Le CroquantPROVENçAL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 27 37 19; www.jacquoulecroquant.com; 2 rue de l'Aumône Vielle; plat du jour €11, menus from €14; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)
This veteran address, around since 1985, stands out on dozens of counts: buzzy jovial atmosphere, flowery patio garden, funky interior, early-evening opening, family friendly, hearty homecooking, a menu covering all price ranges, and so forth. Cuisine from southwestern France is its speciality, meaning lots of duck, but the vast menu covers all bases.
oFarinoman FouBOULANGERIE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.farinomanfou.fr; 3 rue Mignet; h7am-7pm Tue-Sat)
Tucked just off place des Prêcheurs is this truly phenomenal bakery, with a constant queue outside its door. The crunchy, different-flavoured breads baked by artisan boulanger Benoît Fradette are reason enough to sell up and move to Aix. The bakery has no shop as such; customers jostle for space with bread ovens and dough-mixing tubs.
La Tarte TropéziennePATISSERIE, CAFE€
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; av des Belges; sandwich/salad menu €7/8, mains €12-14)
A handy stop en route to/from the bus and train stations, this modern patisserie-cafe is known for its sugar-encrusted tarte Tropézienne (cream-filled cake from St-Tropez), displayed in cabinets like jewels beneath glass. Grab a wedge (€2.90) to take out or eat in – on red director chairs on a decking terrace. Excellent-value gourmet sandwiches and salads.
CharlotteBISTRO€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 26 77 56; 32 rue des Bernardines; 2/3-course menus €16.50/20; h12.30-2pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat; c)
It’s all very cosy at Charlotte, where everyone knows everyone. French classics like veal escalope and beef steak are mainstays, and there is always a vegetarian dish and a couple of imaginative plats du jour. In summer everything moves into the garden.
oPetit Pierre ReboulBISTRO€€
(Petit II R;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 82 75 72 81; www.bistrotpetitpierre.com; 11 Petite Rue St-Jean; 2-course menus €19-34, 3-course menus €27-39; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm Mon-Sat)
This brightly coloured address, hidden down a back alley, is the bistro arm of Pierre Reboul's gastronomic restaurant next door. The vibe is contemporary design (think acid-bright fabrics and lampshades made from pencils), and the menu throws in the odd adventurous dish alongside stalwarts like burgers, Caesar salad, grilled meats, and mussels and fries.
oLe Petit VerdotFRENCH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 27 30 12; www.lepetitverdot.fr; 7 rue d'Entrecasteaux; mains €15-25; h7pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Delicious menus are designed around what's in season, and paired with excellent wines. Meats are often braised all day; vegetables are tender, stewed in delicious broths. Save room for an incandescent dessert. Lively dining occurs around tabletops made of wine crates (expect to talk to your neighbour), and the gregarious owner speaks multiple languages.
Le FormalMODERN FRENCH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 27 08 31; www.restaurant-leformal.com; 32 rue Espariat; lunch menu from €26, 3/7-course dinner menus €42/49; hnoon-2pm Tue-Fri, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)
Chef Jean-Luc Le Formal is well established in France's foodie circles with his first-class establishment. Impeccably mannered staff serve delicious and inventive meals in the vaulted-cellar dining rooms. Reserve ahead for the superb seven-course truffle menu (€79).
Jardin MazarinFRENCH€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 58 11 42; www.jardinmazarin.com; 15 rue du 4 Septembre; menu €34, mains €15-20; hnoon-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sat)
Something of a hidden address, this elegant restaurant serenades the ravishing hôtel particulier in which it languishes. Two salons sit beneath splendid beamed ceilings, but the real gem is outside: a luxuriant green garden with a fountain and a line-up of tables beneath a wicker shade. Peace, perfect peace, far from the madding crowd.
oRestaurant Pierre ReboulGASTRONOMIC€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 82 75 72 60; www.restaurant-pierre-reboul.com; 11 Petite Rue St-Jean; menus €54-151; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)
Aix’ newest culinary star invents playful, gorgeous creations. With a minimalist sensibility in the relaxed dining room and on the exquisitely presented plates, Reboul crafts new juxtapositions using fresh but timeless ingredients. Think perfectly seared duck with a savoury, unexpectedly Asian-influenced broth, sea foam and tender pasta. The lunch special includes mineral water, coffee and a glass of wine.
His bistro next door, Petit Pierre Reboul, is excellent too.
DON'T MISS
MARKETS
AAt the daily food market (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; place Richelme; h7am-noon), trestle tables groan each morning under the weight of marinated olives, goat's cheese, garlic, lavender, honey, peaches, melons, cherries and a bounty of other sun-kissed fruit, veg and seasonal food. Plane trees provide ample shade on the atmospheric T-shaped square, endowed with a couple of corner cafes where Aixois catch up on the gossip over un café (a coffee) once their shopping is done.
AFlower markets fill place des Prêcheurs (Sunday morning) and place de l’Hôtel de Ville (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings).
AThe flea market (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; place de Verdun; hTue, Thu & Sat mornings) has quirky vintage items.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The scene is fun but fickle. For nightlife, hit the drinking dens on rue de la Verrerie and place Richelme. Open-air cafes crowd the city’s squares, especially Forum des Cardeurs, place de Verdun and place de l’Hôtel de Ville (our favourite, for its more intimate scale and shady trees).
oBook in BarCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.bookinbar.com; 4 rue Cabassol; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat)
There is no more literary spot to partake in un café than this particularly fine English bookshop with cafe. Look out for occasional book readings, jazz evenings etc.
La MadoCAFE
(Chez Madeleine;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 38 28 02; www.lamado-aix.com; 4 place des Prêcheurs; h7am-2am)
This smart daytime cafe, with steel-grey parasols and box-hedged terrace on a busy square, is unbeatable for coffee and fashionable-people watching; its food, lunch or dinner (lunch/dinner menus €18/32), is equally excellent. The Mado has been around for years, so the old guard dine while the hipsters shine.
Les Deux GarçonsCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 53 cours Mirabeau; h7am-2am)
Cézanne and Zola once lingered in this classic brasserie-cafe. Food is classic French, but the spot is better as a drinks place. Ignore the slow service and gaze across the small lane to the former shop where Cézanne's father once sold hats.
Le MistralCLUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mistralclub.fr; 3 rue Frédéric Mistral; hmidnight-6am Tue & Sat, nightly during student holidays)
If anyone’s awake past midnight, chances are they’ll wind up at this happening basement club, with three bars and a dance floor. DJs spin house, R&B, techno and rap.
3Entertainment
The city has a clutch of good cinemas (www.lescinemasaixois.com).
Scat Club de JazzLIVE MUSIC
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 23 00 23; http://scatclub.free.fr/scatnet; 11 rue de la Verrerie; h11pm-late Tue-Sat)
For a late-night hang-out, descend into this literal hole for jazz, rock, blues or whatever band is booked.
Grand Théâtre de ProvencePERFORMING ARTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 91 69 70; www.legrandtheatre.net; 380 av Max Juvénal)
State-of-the-art theatre presenting music and opera.
7Shopping
Aix' most chic clothing shops fan out from pedestrian rue Marius Reynaud.
La Chambre aux ConfituresFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.lachambreauxconfitures.com; 16bis rue d'Italie; h10am-1pm & 3-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7.30pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
Do as locals do: ask to taste a jam, chutney or jelly in this outstanding boutique bursting with exotic, unexpected flavours. Best-seller jams include clementine and calisson or apricot and lavender.
Cave du FélibrigeWINE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 96 90 62; www.aix-en-provence.com/cave-felibrige; 8 rue des Cordeliers; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
A truly splendid array of wines.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 16 11 61; www.aixenprovencetourism.com; 300 av Giuseppe Verdi; h8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Sun, to 8pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep; W)
Touch screens add a high-tech air to the usual collection of brochures. Sells tickets for guided tours and cultural events. Helpful staff.
WORTH A TRIP
SALON DE PROVENCE
Delve into old-town Salon, fortified in the 12th century, from place Crousillat, the prettiest square. From 1547 until his death in 1566, the philosopher Nostradamus lived at Maison de Nostradamus (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 56 64 31; 11 rue Nostradamus; adult/child €5/3.15; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat & Sun). Scrolls of Nostradamus' prophecies line the walls, while often-macabre wax figures recreate key scenes from his life. His remains lie behind a plaque inside the Gothic 14th-century Collégiale St-Laurent (
GOOGLE MAP
; place St-Laurent).
From the turn of the 20th century until the 1950s, soap was a buoyant business thanks to Salon’s abundance of olive oil and the palm and copra oils arriving from the French colonies. Savonnerie Marius Fabre (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 53 82 75; www.marius-fabre.fr; 148 av Paul Borret; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat Apr-Sep, reduced hours rest of year, call for tour times), run by three generations dating from 1900, paints a vivid portrait of the industry with its small museum. Savonnerie Rampal-Latour (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 56 07 28; www.rampal-latour.com; 71 rue Félix Pyat; tours free; hshop 9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, call for tour times) sells soap at factory prices in its beautiful 1907 boutique. Both offer factory tours.
8Getting There & Away
Consult www.lepilote.com for all transport information, www.info-ler.fr for some regional buses and www.navetteaixmarseille.com for shuttle buses to/from Marseille.
Bus
Aix' bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 91 02 40 25, 04 42 91 26 80; place Marius Bastard) is a 10-minute walk southwest from La Rotonde. Sunday service is limited. Services:
AAéroport Marseille Provence €8.20 on bus 40, 40 minutes, every 30 minutes
AArles €10.50, 1½ hours, seven daily
AAvignon €17.40, 1¼ hours, six daily
AMarseille €5.70, 25 minutes, every 10 minutes
AToulon €13.90, one hour, seven daily
Train
The city-centre train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; av Victor Hugo), at the southern end of av Victor Hugo, serves Marseille (€8, 45 minutes).
Aix' TGV station , 15km from the centre and accessible from the bus station (bus 40, €4.10, 15 minutes, every 15 minutes), is a stop on the Paris–Marseille line. The Eurostar that connects London, Lyon, Avignon and Marseille does not stop at Aix' TGV station. To go to London you must change at Lille or Paris.
8Getting Around
AAix en Bus (www.aixenbus.fr; €1) runs local buses; La Rotonde is the main hub. The tourist office has schedules. Minibus 2 links the city-centre train station with La Rotonde.
Taxi MirabeauTAXI
(%04 42 21 61 61)
Around Aix-en-Provence
Mountains immortalised in oil and watercolour by Cézanne, wineries and some fabulous lunches are just a short drive from Aix.
1Sights & Activities
oMontagne Ste-VictoireMOUNTAIN
East of Aix towers Cézanne’s favourite haunt, the magnificent silvery ridge of Montagne Ste-Victoire, its dry slopes carpeted in garrigue (scented scrub), lush pine forests, burnt-orange soil and Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence vineyards. Many hike the mountain's north side, but the south side, though steeper, is quite beautiful.
If you take the D17 along the south side, pick up info on hiking and biking at the Maison de Ste-Victoire (%04 13 31 94 70; www.grandsitesaintevictoire.com; Chemin départemental 17; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10.15am-7pm Sat & Sun) in St-Antonin-sur-Bayon. The mountain is closed July and August due to the threat of forest fire (though roads remain open). Driving the loop around Ste-Victoire is gorgeous, or catch bus 110 (www.lepilote.com) from La Rotonde in Aix to Payloubier/St-Antonin-sur-Bayon.
oChâteau de VauvenarguesCHâTEAU
(%04 42 26 48 82; 4 rue René Nicol)
On the northern side of Montagne Ste-Victoire, the D10 passes Vauvenargues, home to 14th-century Château de Vauvenargues, where Picasso is buried. The red-brick castle, bought by the artist in 1958 and his home between 1959 and 1961, still belongs to the Picassos. It opened its doors to visitors in 2009 to raise money for its restoration. It is again closed to the public, but views of it from the evocative village, with Ste-Victoire in the background, are spectacular.
Aqueduc de RoquefavourHISTORIC SITE
Take the D64 13km west of Aix to stroll through the trees beneath the Aqueduc de Roquefavour, the world’s largest stone aqueduct, built in 1861 to transport water from the River Durance to Marseille. Afterwards lunch at Hôtel-Restaurant Arquier.
Domaine de la BrillaneWINERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 54 21 44; www.labrillane.com; 195 rte de Couteron; h10am-1pm Sat & by appointment)
S
Make an appointment at this organic estate to taste esteemed reds and rosés. Find the brilliant ochre-coloured château surrounded by vineyards 7km north of Aix-en-Provence, signposted 1km off the northbound D13 from Aix to St-Canadet.
WORTH A TRIP
MASSIF DE LA STE-BAUME
From Marseille head towards Gémenos, then take the eastbound D2 towards ‘Vallée St-Pons & La Ste-Baume’. The going gets verdantly dramatic, the road snaking uphill through the scrubby terrain of the Parc Départemental de St-Pons. After 8km, the sea pops onto the horizon, then the road climbs to Col de l’Espigoulier (728m), a mountain pass with coastline views. The winding descent is dominated by the mountain ridge Massif de la Ste-Baume.
At the D45A/D2 junction, continue on the D2 to La Ste-Baume (8km), from where a 40-minute forest trail leads to the Grotte de Ste-Madeleine (950m), a mountain cave where Mary Magdalene is said to have spent the last years of her life. Its entrance offers a breathtaking panorama of Montagne Ste-Victoire, Mont Ventoux and the Alps.
Finally, take the D80 northeast via Nans-les-Pins, then turn right on the N560 (about 20km all up) to reach the pastel-hued town of St-Maximin La Ste-Baume. Its fabulous Gothic Ste-Madeleine basilica was built in 1295 as the home of what are claimed to be the relics of Mary Magdalene, discovered in a crypt on the site around 1279. Afterwards lunch on Provençal specialities in the adjacent convent, now the sumptuous Hôtel Le Couvent Royal (
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 94 86 55 66; www.couvent-royal.fr; place Jean Salusse, St-Maximin La Ste-Baume; lunch/dinner menus from €17/39, d from €80).
4Sleeping & Eating
Hôtel-Restaurant ArquierTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€
(%04 42 24 20 45; www.arquier-restaurant-hotel.com; 2980 rte du Petit-Moulin; r €60-70, weekday/weekend menus from €15.50/25; hrestaurant noon-2pm; W)
This roadside inn with tables along the river gets packed with Aixois enjoying the enormous weekday lunch buffet. Terrace tables proffer a prime view of the Aqueduc de Roquefavour. Stay in simple, comfortable rooms overlooking restful greenery.
oLa Table de VentabrenMODERN FRENCH€€€
(%04 42 28 79 33; www.latabledeventabren.com; 1 rue Cézanne; lunch menu Wed-Sat €40, multi-course menus €65-92; hnoon-1.15pm Wed-Sun, 7.45-9.15pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year)
Reason enough to visit medieval Ventabren, a hilltop village 16km west of Aix-en-Provence, is this Michelin-starred restaurant with canvas-canopied terrace, magical on summer evenings. Inside find exposed stone and design-led details. Chef Dan Bessoudo creates inventive French dishes and out-of-this-world desserts. Afterwards, hike to the ruined Château de la Reine Jeanne for panoramic views.