Arles & the Camargue
Arles & the Camargue
Why Go?
Forget all about time in this hauntingly beautiful part of Provence roamed by black bulls, white horses and pink flamingos. This is slow-go Provence, a timeless wetland chequered with silver salt pans, waterlogged rice paddies and movie-style cowboys. Birds provide the most action on this 780-sq-km delta wedged between the Petit Rhône and Grand Rhône. Grab your binoculars, squat in a shack between bulrushes and know, as another flamingo flits across the setting sun, that these magnificent waters, steeped in legend and lore, have a soul of their own.
The main town of the region, diminutive Arles, is a show-stopper. Wander the narrow golden-hued streets that inspired Van Gogh and find the town's lovely restored Roman amphitheatre, top-notch art and history museums, and world-class restaurants. It'll be hard to tear yourself away.
Driving Distances (km)
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
Arles & the Camargue Highlights
1 Discover Roman Arles, trail Van Gogh and enjoy some of Provence's finest restaurants.
2 Watch rose-pink flamingos at the wondrous Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau.
3 Spot local flora and fauna from the trails around La Capelière and Salin de Badon.
4 Pick a fine restaurant to try near Le Sambuc.
5 Gallop like the wind on a horse trek at Domaine de la Palissade.
6 Bike along the edge of the world to a 19th-century lighthouse on the Digue à la Mer.
7 Birdwatch on the Étang de Vaccarès then dine with lighthouse keepers at legendary Le Mazet du Vaccarès.
8 Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer and its hallowed church.
Arles
Pop pop 53,575
Roman treasures, sultry stone squares and a festive atmosphere that crescendos during bullfights makes Arles a seductive stepping stone into the Camargue. And if its colourful sun-baked houses evoke a sense of déjà vu, it’s because you’ve seen them already on a Van Gogh canvas.
Long before the Dutch artist captured starry nights over the Rhône, the Romans had been won over by the charms of the Greek colony Arelate. In 49 BC Arles' prosperity and political standing rose meteorically when it backed a winner in Julius Caesar. After Caesar plundered Marseille, which had supported his rival Pompey the Great, Arles eclipsed Marseille as the region's major port. Soon its citizens were living the high life with gladiator fights and chariot races in magnificent open-air theatres. Still impressively intact, the 12,000-seat theatre and 20,000-seat amphitheatre now stage events including Arles' famous férias, with their controversial lethal bullfights, less bloody courses Camarguaises and three-day street parties.
Arles' Saturday market is one of the best in Europe.
Arles
1Top Sights
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights & Activities
Arles' Roman sights are fantastic, not to be missed. Though Van Gogh lived here and painted 200-odd canvases in Arles, there are no Van Gogh pieces here today; and Van Gogh’s little ‘yellow house’ on place Lamartine, which he painted in 1888, was destroyed during WWII. Nevertheless, there are several ways to pay homage to the master, and the Fondation Vincent van Gogh brings in a work each season.
By 2018, Arles is slated to be graced with a cultural centre designed by world-renowned architect Frank Gehry.
Unless otherwise noted, the last entry to sights is 30 minutes prior to closing. Winter hours are shorter than those listed below; places that close at 7pm in summer usually close at 5pm in winter. Museums are free the first Sunday of the month.
Buy a pass for multiple sights at the tourist office or any Roman site: Passeport Avantage (€16) covers the museums, both theatres, the baths, crypt, Les Alyscamps and the Cloître St-Trophime; the Passeport Liberté (€12) gives you the choice of six sights total, including two museums.
The Museon Arlaten ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.museonarlaten.fr) is closed for renovations until 2018.
oLes ArènesROMAN SITE
(Amphithéâtre;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; adult/child incl Théâtre Antique €5.50/free; 
h9am-8pm Jul & Aug, to 7pm May-Jun & Sep, shorter hrs rest of yr )
Slaves, criminals and wild animals (including giraffes) met their dramatic demise before jubilant 20,000-strong crowds during Roman gladiatorial displays at Les Arènes, built around the early 2nd century AD. During the early medieval Arab invasions the arch-laced circular structure – 136m long, 107m wide and 21m tall – was topped with four defensive towers. By the 1820s, when the amphitheatre was returned to its original use, 212 houses and two churches had to be razed on the site.
Buy tickets for bullfights, courses Camarguaises, theatre and concerts at the ticket office next to the entrance.
oThéâtre AntiqueROMAN SITE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%04 90 96 93 30; bd des Lices; adult/child €5.50/free, adult/child €9/free joint ticket with Les Arènes; h9am-7pm May-Sep, shorter hrs rest of yr)
Still used for summertime concerts and plays, this outdoor theatre dates to the end of the 1st century BC. For hundreds of years it was a source of construction materials, with workers chipping away at the 102m-diameter structure (the column on the right-hand side near the entrance indicates the height of the original arcade). Enter on rue de la Calade.
oÉglise & Cloître St-TrophimeCHURCH, CLOISTER
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; place de la République; church free, cloister adult/child €5.50/free; h9am-7pm May-Sep, shorter hrs rest of yr)
Arles was an archbishopric from the 4th century until 1790, and this Romanesque-style church was once a cathedral. Built in the late 11th and 12th centuries, it’s named after St Trophime, an Arles bishop from the 2nd or 3rd century AD. On the western portal, the intricately sculpted tympanum depicts St Trophime holding a spiral staff. Inside, the treasury contains bone fragments of Arles’ bishops. Occasional exhibitions are hosted in neighbouring cloister, Cloître St-Trophime.
oFondation Vincent Van GoghART MUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 49 94 04; www.fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org; 35ter rue du Docteur Fanton; adult/child €9/4; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr–mid-Sep, to 6pm mid-Sep–Mar)
This Van Gogh–themed gallery is a must-see, as much for its contemporary architecture and design, as for the art it showcases. It has no permanent collection; rather, it hosts one or two excellent exhibitions a year, always with a Van Gogh theme and always including at least one Van Gogh masterpiece. Architectural highlights include the rooftop terrace and the coloured-glass bookshop ceiling.
oMusée RéattuART MUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 49 37 58; www.museereattu.arles.fr; 10 rue du Grand Prieuré; adult/child €9/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm Dec-Feb)
This splendid modern-art museum is housed in the exquisitely renovated 15th-century Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta. Among its collections are works by 18th- and 19th-century Provençal artists and two paintings and 57 sketches by Picasso. It hosts wonderfully curated cutting-edge exhibitions.
Place du ForumROMAN SITE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; adult/child €4.50/free; hcryptoportiques 9am-7pm Jul & Aug, shorter hrs rest of yr)
Just as social, political and religious life revolved around the forum in Roman Arles, so this busy plane-tree-shaded square buzzes with cafe life today. Underneath it lie the underground galleries of Cryptoportiques – the forum's subterranean foundations and buried arcades (89m long and 59m wide). These were carved out – the plaza was lower in Roman times – in the 1st century BC. Access is from the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place de la République).
Thermes de ConstantinROMAN SITE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; rue du Grand Prieuré; adult/child €4/free; h9am-7pm Jul & Aug, shorter hours rest of yr)
Partly preserved Roman baths that were built for Emperor Constantin's private use in the 4th century.
Espace Van GoghGALLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 49 39 39; place Félix Rey)
The former hospital where Van Gogh had his ear stitched and was later locked up – not to be confused with the asylum Monastère St-Paul de Mausole – hosts the occasional exhibition. Other times, its small courtyard garden is worth a peek.
Musée Départemental Arles AntiqueMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 13 31 51 03; www.arles-antique.cg13.fr; av de la Première Division Française Libre; adult/child €8/5; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon)
This striking, state-of-the-art cobalt-blue museum perches on the edge of what used to be the Roman chariot-racing track (circus), 1.5km southwest of the tourist office. The rich collection of pagan and Christian art includes stunning mosaics and an entire wing dedicated to archaeological treasures highlighting Arles' commercial and maritime past.
Les AlyscampsCEMETERY
(
GOOGLE MAP
; av des Alyscamps; adult/child €4/free; h9am-7pm May-Sep, shorter hrs rest of yr)
Van Gogh and Gauguin both painted this necropolis, founded by the Romans 1km southwest of the centre.
Walking ToursWALKING TOUR
Mapped out in a tourist-office brochure (€1 or download it free online at www. arlestourisme.com, or with an app), evocative walking circuits of the city take in scenes painted by Van Gogh, and Roman or medieval sights.
zFestivals & Events
Féria d'ArlesBULLFIGHTING
(Féria de Pâques; www.feriaarles.com; hEaster)
Festival heralding the start of bullfighting season, with bullfighting in Les Arènes most Sundays in May and June.
Fête des GardiansCULTURAL FESTIVAL
(h1 May)
Mounted Camargue cowboys parade and hold games during this festival.
Fêtes d'ArlesPERFORMING ARTS
(www.festivarles.com; h2 weeks starting around late Jun)
Dance, theatre, music and poetry.
L’Abrivado des BernaclesBULL PARADE, EVENT
(www.feriaarles.com; h1st Mon in Jul)
Camargue gardians (cowboys) shepherd bulls for 15km from paddock to Les Arènes for the season’s most prestigious course Camarguaise, the Cocarde d’Or. Hundreds of aficionados on bike, scooter, foot and horseback follow the gardians.
Féria du RizBULLFIGHTING
(www.feriaarles.com; hSep)
Bullfights during this week-long festival mark the start of the rice harvest.
4Sleeping
Arles has reasonably priced, excellent year-round accommodation, which only really fills up during férias. Hotels' private parking tends to be pricey.
oHôtel de l'AmphithéâtreHISTORIC HOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 96 10 30; www.hotelamphitheatre.fr; 5-7 rue Diderot; s/d/tr/q €61/79/129/139; 
a
i
W
c)
Crimson, chocolate, terracotta and other rich, earthy colours dress the exquisite 17th-century stone structure of this stylish hotel, with narrow staircases, a roaring fire and alfresco courtyard breakfasts. The romantic suite has a dreamy lilac-walled terrace overlooking rooftops. Breakfast €8.50.
Le Belvédère HôtelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 91 45 94; www.hotellebelvedere-arles.com; 5 place Voltaire; s €65, d €70-95; aW)
This sleek 17-room hotel is one of the best Arlésian pads. Red-glass chandeliers (and friendly staff) adorn the lobby breakfast area and the super-clean rooms and bathrooms are fitted out in stylish red, chocolate brown and grey. Breakfast €7.50.
Hôtel du MuséeBOUTIQUE HOTEL€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 93 88 88; www.hoteldumusee.com; 11 rue du Grand Prieuré; s/d/q from €65/75/120; hmid-Mar–Oct; aW)
In a fine 17th- to 18th-century building, this impeccable hotel has comfortable rooms, a checkerboard-tiled breakfast room and a sugar-sweet patio garden brimming with pretty blossoms. Breakfast €8.50, parking €10.
Auberge de JeunesseHOSTEL€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 96 18 25; www.fuaj.org; 20 av Maréchal Foch; dm incl breakfast & sheets €21; hmid-Feb–mid-Dec, reception closed 10am-5pm)
This sunlit place, made up of eight-bed dorms, is 10 minutes’ walk from the centre. Its bar closes at 11pm, just like its gates (except during férias).
Camping CityCAMPGROUND€
(%04 90 93 08 86; www.camping-city.com; 67 rte de Crau; sites €20; hApr-Sep)
Southeast 1.5km on the road to Marseille, Camping City is the closest campground to Arles. Bike hire and laundry facilities are available and there are supermarkets nearby. To get here, take bus 2 to the Hermite stop.
oLe CloîtreDESIGN HOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 88 09 10 00; www.hotel-cloitre.com; 18 rue du Cloître; s/d €100/117-165; iW)
Unbeatable value, the Cloister – 12th-century neighbour to the Cloître Ste-Trophime – is the perfect fusion of historic charm and contemporary design. Its 19 rooms across two floors offer high ceilings, bold colours and a funky mix of patterns and textures. Breakfast (€13), served in the wonderfully airy and 1950s-styled breakfast room, is a particularly stylish affair. No elevator. Free bikes.
There is no lovelier way to end the day than with an apéro (aperitif) on the chic rooftop terrace, privy to wonderful views of the sculpted stone facade of the Ste-Trophime cloister.
Hôtel ArlatanHISTORIC HOTEL€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 93 56 66; www.hotel-arlatan.fr; 26 rue du Sauvage; s/d from €75/95; hmid-Mar–mid-Nov; aiW
s)
The heated swimming pool, pretty garden and plush rooms decorated with antique furniture are just some of the things going for this hotel. Add to that a setting steeped in history, with Roman foundations visible through a glass floor in the lobby and 15th-century paintings on the ceiling of one lounge.
oL’Hôtel ParticulierBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 52 51 40; www.hotel-particulier.com; 4 rue de la Monnaie; d/ste from €309/429; hEaster-Oct)
This exclusive boutique hotel with restaurant, spa and hammam (Turkish steambath) oozes chic charm. From the big black door with heavy knocker to the crisp white linens and minimalist decor, everything about this 18th-century private mansion enchants.
5Eating
Arles and its environs are foodie heaven. Reserve ahead; hours are reduced in winter.
L'EntrevueMOROCCAN€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 93 37 28; www.lentrevue-restaurant.com; place Nina Berberova; mains €15-19; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm; c)
Excellent, heaping terracotta tians (bowls) of organic tajines and couscous are briskly served quayside at this colourful address, just around the corner from the Fondation Vincent van Gogh.
Au Jardin du CalendalCAFE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 96 11 89; www.lecalendal.com; 5 rue Porte de Laure; mains €14-18; h8am-8.30pm; W)
The leafy courtyard garden at Le Calendal hotel, right by Les Arènes, is perfect for grabbing breakfast, lunching on gourmet salads, or sampling evening snacks.
Comptoir du SudCAFE€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 96 22 17; 2 rue Jean Jaurès; sandwiches €4.50-6; h9am-5pm Tue-Fri)
Gourmet sandwiches, wraps and bagels (tasty chutneys, succulent meats, foie gras) and little salads are served at this épicerie fine (gourmet grocery). Take away or eat in on bar stools and end with a sweet wedge of homemade clafoutis (cherry pie) for dessert.
oLe GibolinBISTRO€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 88 65 43 14; 13 rue des Porcelets; menus €27-32, glass wine €4.50-5.50; h12.15-2pm & 8-10pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul)
Sup on peerless home cooking (think cod with fennel confit and crushed potatoes, and pot au feu – beef stew), while the friendly patroness bustles between dark wood tables sharing her knowledge and passion for natural wines at Arles' most beloved natural-wine bar. Pairings are naturally magnifique. No credit cards.
Au Brin de ThymBISTRO€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 97 85 18; brindethym@gmail.com; 22 rue du Docteur Fanton; menus from €25; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm daily Apr-Sep, Thu-Mon Oct-Mar)
This effortless bistro in a renovated townhouse offers Arles' best relaxed fine dining. The menu is short, with creative dishes based on seasonal ingredients, without being fussy and the atmosphere is inviting with lively music and happy diners.
oL'AtelierGASTRONOMIC€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 91 07 69; www.rabanel.com; 7 rue des Carmes; lunch/dinner menus from €65/125; hsittings begin noon-1pm & 8-9pm Wed-Sun)
Consider this not a meal, but an artistic experience (with two shiny Michelin stars no less). Every one of the seven or 13 edible works of art is a wondrous composition of flavours, colours and textures courtesy of charismatic chef Jean-Luc Rabanel. Many products are sourced from the chef's organic veggie patch and wine pairings are an adventure in themselves. Half-day cooking classes with/without lunch are €200/145.
Next door, Rabanel's À Côté (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 47 61 13; www.bistro-acote.com; 21 rue des Carmes; menus €29; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30-9pm daily) offers delicious bistro fare.
6Drinking & Entertainment
The place du Forum makes for great cafe sitting. Café van Gogh ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 11 place du Forum), otherwise called Café de la Nuit, was depicted in Van Gogh’s Café Terrace at Night (1888). Painted starry-yellow to re-create the painting's feel, it’s always packed with tourists.
Roma bands such as Los Reyes and the Gypsy Kings (from Arles no less, discovered while busking in St-Tropez) have performed on the city's streets. Catch Roma bands performing during Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer pilgrimages. Otherwise watch a sangria-fuelled dinner show at La Guinguette du Patio de Camargue (%06 59 62 18 73; www.la-guinguette-patio-camargue.com; 49 Chemin de Barriol; hmeals nightly, occasional performances).
The tourist office has lists of what's on.
ADVANCE PLANNING
AMosquitoes Bring insect repellent. Mosquitoes are savage here.
ADriving the Camargue Carry water and binoculars. Gas up before leaving town.
AArles féria (bullfighting festival) tickets They’re snapped up fast.
AGîte at Salin de Badon Bare-bones but nature rich, this prime real estate fills quickly.
AHigh-end restaurants Reserve in advance.
ABicycle rental Companies in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer deliver bikes to your door for free; book ahead.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 18 41 20; www.arlestourisme.com; esplanade Charles de Gaulle, Blvd des Lices; h9am-6.45pm Apr-Sep, to 4.45pm Mon-Fri & 12.45pm Sun Oct-Mar; W)
Sell maps, cycling itineraries and sightseeing passes; several smartphone apps.
VINCENT
It's easy to forget that Vincent van Gogh was only 37 when he died, as he appears much older in some of his self-portraits. Born in 1853, the Dutch painter arrived in Arles in 1888 after living in Paris with his younger brother Theo, an art dealer who financially supported Vincent from his own modest income. In Paris he had become acquainted with seminal artists Edgar Degas, Camille Pissarro, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec and Paul Gauguin.
Revelling in Arles' intense light and bright colours, Van Gogh painted with a burning fervour, unfazed by howling mistrals. During a mistral he would kneel on his canvases and paint horizontally, or lash his easel to iron stakes driven deep into the ground. He sent paintings to Theo for him to try to sell, and dreamed of founding an artists' colony here, but only Gauguin followed up his invitation. Their differing artistic approaches (Gauguin believed in painting from imagination, Van Gogh in painting what he saw) and their artistic temperaments came to a head with the argument in December 1888 that led to Van Gogh lopping off part of his own ear.
In May 1889 Van Gogh voluntarily entered an asylum, Monastère St-Paul de Mausole in St-Rémy de Provence. During his one year, one week, and one day's confinement he painted 150-odd canvases, including masterpieces like Starry Night (not to be confused with Starry Night over the Rhône, painted in Arles).
In February 1890 his 1888 Arles-painted work The Red Vines was bought by Anne Boch, sister of his friend Eugene Boch, for 400 francs (around €50 today) – the only painting he sold in his lifetime. It now hangs in the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts.
On 16 May 1890 Van Gogh moved to Auvers-sur-Oise, just outside Paris, to be closer to Theo. But on 27 July that year he shot himself and died two days later with Theo at his side. Theo subsequently had a breakdown, was committed and died, aged 33, just six months after Vincent. Less than a decade later, Van Gogh's talent started to achieve recognition, with major museums acquiring his work.
8Getting There & Around
Bus
There are services to Aix-en-Provence (€10, 1¾ hours), Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer (€2.50, one hour; www.tout-envia.com) and Nîmes (€1.50, one hour; www.edgard-transport.fr) from the central bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 10 00 08 16; www.lepilote.com; 24 bd Georges Clemenceau).
EnviaBUS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %08 10 00 08 18; www.tout-envia.com; 24 bd Georges Clemenceau; tickets €0.80; h7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-noon & 2-5.30pm Sat)
Local buses run 6.30am to 7.30pm Monday to Saturday, and 9.30am to 5.30pm Sunday. Free minibuses circle most of the old city every 25 minutes from 7.10am to 7.15pm Monday to Saturday.
DON'T MISS
ARLES' SATURDAY MARKET
Plan to be in Arles for the whopping Saturday morning market (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; bd Georges Clemenceau & bd des Lices; hSat). Camargue salt, goats’ cheese and saucisson d’Arles (bull-meat sausage) scent the air. Stalls line both sides of the street and visitors and locals alike browse, sample and buy everything from lavender honey and the region's freshest seasonal produce to baby chicks. The scene shifts to bd Émile Combes on Wednesday morning. Stock up for a picnic, or reserve ahead for a late lunch at one of the outstanding local restaurants.
Bicycle
Europbike (%06 38 14 49 50; www.europbike-provence.net; per day adult €10-18, child €8, electric e-bike €35; h8am-6pm) Rents bikes and runs tours.
A BULLISH AFFAIR
The course Camarguaise is a local Camargue variation of the bullfight, but one in which the bulls aren't harmed. It sees amateur razeteurs (from the word 'shave'), wearing skin-tight white shirts and trousers, get as close as they dare to the taureau (bull) to try to snatch rosettes and ribbons tied to the bull's horns, using a crochet (a razor-sharp comb) held between their fingers. Their leaps over the arena's barrier as the bull charges make spectators' hearts lurch.
Bulls are bred on a manade (bull farm) by manadiers, who are helped in their daily chores by gardians (Camargue cattle-herding cowboys). These mounted herdsmen parade through Arles during the Fête des Gardians in May.
Many manades also breed the creamy white cheval de Camargue (Camargue horse) and some welcome visitors; ask at tourist offices in Arles and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
A calendar of courses Camarguaises is online at the Fédération Française de la Course Camarguaise (French Federation of Camargue Bullfights; %04 66 26 05 35; www.ffcc.info), with many occurring at the arena in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer. Recortadores (a type of bull-baiting with lots of bull-jumping) also happens during the bullfighting season (Easter to September).
Taxi
Call Arles Taxi Radio (04 90 96 90 03).
Train
The train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; av Paulin Talabot) has services to Nîmes (€9 to €16, 30 to 60 minutes), Marseille (€16, one hour) and Avignon (€8, 20 minutes). The closest TGV stations are in Avignon and Nîmes.
Camargue Countryside
Just south of Arles, Provence's rolling landscapes yield to the flat, marshy wilds of the Camargue, famous for teeming birdlife – roughly 500 species. Allow ample time to birdwatch: grey herons, little egrets, shelducks, avocets, oystercatchers and yellow-legged gulls are among the species to spot. King of all is the pink flamingo, which enjoys the mild winters of these expansive wetlands.
Equally famous are the Camargue's small white horses; their mellow disposition makes horseback riding the ideal way to explore the region's patchwork of salt pans and rice fields, and meadows dotted with grazing bulls. Bring binoculars and mosquito repellent.
Enclosed by the Petit Rhône and Grand Rhône rivers, most of the Camargue wetlands fall within the 850-sq-km Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.parc-camargue.fr), established in 1970 to preserve the area's fragile ecosystems while sustaining local agriculture. Get information at the Musée de la Camargue.
On the periphery, the 600-sq-km lagoon Étang de Vaccarès and nearby peninsulas and islands form the Réserve Nationale de Camargue (www.reserve-camargue.org), a nature reserve founded in 1927, with an information centre at La Capelière.
The Camargue's two largest towns are the seaside pilgrim's outpost Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer and, to the northwest, the walled town of Aigues-Mortes.
BEST TREKS & SAFARIS
PINK FLAMINGOS
Each year in the Camargue some 10,000 pink or greater flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) couples nest on the Étang du Fangassier. This 4000-sq-m artificial island, constructed in 1970 as a flamingo-breeding colony, is one of the rare spots in Europe that guarantees the flamingo protection from predators.
This well-dressed bird stands between 1.5m and 2m tall and has an average wing span of 1.9m. When the flamingo feels threatened, its loud hiss is similar to the warning sound made by a goose. Flamingo courtship starts in January, with mating taking place from March to May. Come the end of August or early September, thousands take flight to Spain, Tunisia and Senegal, where they winter in warmer climes before returning to the Camargue in February. Some 6000 to 7000 flamingos, however, remain in the Rhône delta year-round.
1Sights
Musée de la CamargueMUSEUM
(Musée Camarguais;
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 97 10 82; www.parc-camargue.fr; D570, Mas du Pont de Rousty; adult/child €5/free, free 1st Sun of month; h9am-12.30pm & 1-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, 10am-12.30pm & 1-5pm Nov-Mar)
Inside a 19th-century sheep shed 10km southwest of Arles, this museum evokes traditional local life: exhibitions cover history, ecosystems, farming techniques, flora and fauna. L'Oeuvre Horizons by Japanese artist Tadashi Kawamata – aka a wooden observatory shaped like a boat – provides a bird's-eye view of the agricultural estate, crossed by a 3.5km walking trail. The headquarters of the Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue are also based here.
oParc Ornithologique du Pont de GauNATURE PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 97 82 62; www.parcornithologique.com; D570, Pont du Gau; adult/child €7.50/5; h9am-sunset Apr-Sep, from 10am Oct-Mar)
Pink flamingos pirouette overhead and stalk the watery landscape at this bird park, home to every bird species known to set foot in the Camargue. Watch them from the 7km of beautiful trails that meander through the site. Find the park on the D570 in Pont du Gau, 4km north of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
oDigue à la MerDIKE, CYCLING
(
GOOGLE MAP
)
F
This 2.5m-high dike was built in the 19th century to cut the delta off from the sea. A 20km-long walking and cycling track runs along its length linking Stes-Maries with the solar-powered Phare de la Gacholle (1882), a lighthouse automated in the 1960s. Footpaths cut down to lovely sandy beaches, and views of pink flamingos strutting across the marshy planes are second to none. Walking on the fragile sand dunes is forbidden.
oLa CapelièreNATURE PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 97 00 97; www.reserve-camargue.org; La Capelière; permits adult/child €3/1.50; h9am-1pm & 2-6pm daily Apr-Sep, 9am-1pm & 2-5pm Wed-Mon Oct-Mar; c)
S
This information centre for the Réserve Nationale de Camargue sells permits for the observatories and 4.5km of nature trails at wild Salin de Badon, former royal salt pans 7km south. True birders must not miss a night in its gîte (dorms €12), a cottage with 20 beds over seven rooms, kitchen, toilet and solar electricity. BYO food, drinking water, bedding and mosquito spray. At La Capelière's 1.5km-long Sentier des Rainettes (Tree-Frog Trail) discover flora and fauna native to freshwater marshes.
oDomaine de la PalissadeNATURE PARK
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 42 86 81 28; www.palissade.fr; rte de la Mer; adult/child €3/free; h9am-6pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–mid-Nov & Mar–mid-Jun, 9am-5pm Wed-Sun mid-Nov–Feb)
This remote nature centre, 12km south of Salin de Giraud, organises fantastic forays through marshland, scrubby glasswort, flowering sea lavender (August) and lagoons, on foot and horseback; call ahead to book horse treks (€18 per hour). Before hitting the scrub, rent binoculars (€2) and grab a free map of the estate’s three marked walking trails (1km to 8km) from the office.
Château d'AvignonCASTLE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 13 31 94 54; www.chateaudavignon.fr; rte d'Arles, D570; adult/child €4/free; h9.45am-12.30pm & 1.30-5.30pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct, Thu & Fri by appt only Nov-Mar)
The park surrounding this 18th-century château is free to wander. The castle itself was owned by Louis Prat-Noilly, a Marseillais merchant, who used it as a hunting lodge.
2Activities
Horse Riding
La Maison du GuideOUTDOORS
(%04 66 73 52 30; www.maisonduguide.camargue.fr)
Discovery weekends by naturalist Jean-Marie Espuche embrace birdwatching, cycling, horse riding and sunrise nature walks.
Cabanes de CacharelHORSE RIDING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %06 11 57 74 75, 04 90 97 84 10; www.cabanesdecacharel.com; rte de Cacharel, D85A; 1/2/3hr horse trek €20/30/40)
Farms along rte d’Arles (D570) offer promenades à cheval (horseback riding) astride white Camargue horses, but a more authentic experience can be had at these stables, just north of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer along the parallel rte de Cacharel (D85A). Horse-and-carriage rides too (one hour, €15).
Camargue DécouverteADVENTURE TOUR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %06 85 35 10 04; www.camargue-decouverte.com; 24 rue Porte de Laure)
Delve into the delta by 4WD jeep on safari-style half-day trips, which can be combined with horseback rambles.
Boating & Water Sports
Tiki IIIBOATING
(%04 90 97 81 68; www.tiki3.fr; hmid-Mar–mid-Nov)
Le Tiki III is a paddleboat moored at the mouth of the Petit Rhône, 1.5km west of Stes-Maries de-la-Mer next to Camping Le Clos du Rhône.
Absolut KiteboardingWATER SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %06 88 15 10 93; www.absolutkiteboarding.fr; 36 rte d'Arles, Salin de Giraud; group/private lesson €130/300)
Ride the waves and the wind with this recommended kitesurfing school, headed by Patrick. March to November you're on the water, December to February on dry ground. The school runs a shop and rents gear (€70). Find it at the northern entrance to Salin de Giraud, on the D36.
Kayak Vert CamargueCANOEING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 66 73 57 17; www.kayakvert-camargue.fr; Mas de Sylvéréal; kayak 1hr/day €10/32; h7am-7pm Mar-Oct)
For canoeing and kayaking on the Petit Rhône, contact Kayak Vert Camargue, 14km north of Stes-Maries de-la-Mer off the D38.
CCourses
Manade SalierèneCOWBOY COURSE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 66 86 45 57; www.manadesalierene.com; D37, Mas de Capellane)
Get a taste of cowboy life with a one-week stage de monte gardiane (Camargue cowboy course). Initiation/perfection courses (adult/child €750/665) include accommodation and meals with the manadier’s (bull breeder's) family.
WORTH A TRIP
AIGUES-MORTES
Actually located over the border from Provence in the Gard département, the picturesque town of Aigues-Mortes sits 28km northwest of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer at the western extremity of the Camargue. Set in flat marshland and encircled by high stone walls, the town was established in the mid-13th century by Louis IX to give the French crown a Mediterranean port under its direct control. Cobbled streets inside the walls are lined with restaurants, cafes and bars, giving it a festive atmosphere and making it a charming spot from which to explore the Camargue.
Scaling the ramparts rewards you with sweeping views. Head to the top of the tower, Tour de Constance (www.tourdeconstance.com; adult/child €7.50/free; h10am-7pm May-Aug, 10am-5.30pm Sep-Apr); the 1.6km wall-top walk takes about one hour.
Inside the walled town, L'Hermitage de St-Antoine (%06 03 04 34 05; www.hermitagesa.com; 9 bd Intérieur Nord; r incl breakfast €88; a) has four artfully appointed rooms, one with a small private terrace. Hôtel L'Escale (%04 66 53 71 14; http://hotel.escale.free.fr; 3 av Tour de Constance; d €40-68, q €75-85; Wc) caters fantastically to budget travellers.
The tourist office (%04 66 53 73 00; www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr; place St-Louis; h9am-6pm) is inside the walled city.
4Sleeping
Ranch-style motel accommodation lines the D570 heading into Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The tourist offices list self-catering cabanes de gardian (traditional whitewashed cowboy cottages) and farmstays.
oMas de CalabrunHOTEL€€
(%04 90 97 82 21; www.mas-de-calabrun.fr; rte de Cacherel, D85A; d/roulotte €129/169; hmid-Feb–mid-Nov; iWsc)
From the striking equestrian sculpture in its front courtyard to the swish pool, stylish restaurant terrace and fabulous views of open Camargue countryside, this hotel thoroughly deserves its three stars. The icing on the cake, however, is its trio of chic roulottes (old-fashioned 'gypsy' wagons), which promise the perfect romantic getaway. Breakfast buffet €15.
oCacharel HotelHOTEL€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 97 95 44; www.hotel-cacharel.com; rte de Cacharel, D85A; s/d/tr/q €132/144/156/178, horse-riding per hr €32; hyear-round; iWsc)
This isolated farmstead, 400m down an unpaved track off the D85A just north of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, perfectly balances modern-day comforts with rural authenticity. Photographic portraits of the bull herder who created the hotel in 1947 (son Florian runs the three-star hotel with much love today) give the vintage dining room soul. Rooms sit snug in whitewashed cottages, some overlooking the water.
Swings in the paddock, horse riding with a gardian, boules to play pétanque and bags of open space make it a perfect family choice.
oLe Mas de PeintBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %04 90 97 20 62; www.masdepeint.com; Le Sambuc; d from €270, lunch/dinner menus from €41/59; hmid-Mar–mid-Nov; aWs)
So chic and gentrified it almost feels out of place in the Camargue, this upmarket mas (farmhouse) – part of the luxurious Châteaux & Hôtels Collection – is right out of design mag Côte Sud. The good news: nonguests are welcome in its gourmet restaurant and swish, poolside canteen.
The operators also run flamenco, bull-herding and birdwatching weekends.
2Driving Tour
The Wild Southeast
Start Arles
End Villeneuve
Length 85km; one day
For a jaunt to the edge of the world, drive south from 1Arles along the D570 (direction Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer). After 2.8km, turn left onto the D36 (direction Le Sambuc and Salin de Giraud) and within seconds you’re in the Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue. Four kilometres on, turn right onto the D36B (direction Gageron) and at the crossroads continue straight.
Soon after, the D36B dramatically skims the eastern shores of the 2Étang de Vaccarès. The wetland is at its most savage here and much of the area is off limits, making the nature trails and wildlife observatories at 3La Capelière particularly precious. Play voyeur as little egrets and grey herons frolic in the marshes, and buy a permit for the nature trails at 4Salin de Badon (7km south).
Cut back to 5Le Sambuc for lunch at La Chassagnette, Estrambord or Le Mas de Peint, which also offers horse-riding and jeep tours by appointment.
South along the D36C skip through Salin de Giraud, an unexceptional village that grew up around Europe’s largest salins (salt pans), producing 800,000 tonnes per year. Take in the windswept panorama of the pans, salt mountains and diggers 2km south of the village at the 6point de vue (viewpoint) along the D36D.
The unforgettable final 12km leg of this southbound journey passes pink flamingos wading through water on your way to 7Domaine de la Palissade, a nature centre with walks and horse treks.
The road terminates at 8Plage de Piémanson 3.7km south, where campervans park overnight on the sand.
On the return to Arles along the D36, you can swing into the tiny 9Musée du Riz du Petit Manusclat and aDomaine de Beaujeu, to learn about and buy local produce. Then dine well at bRestaurant La Telline in Villeneuve.
5Eating
The Camargue countryside, especially around Le Sambuc and Villeneuve, harbours top eateries, from simple roadside dining or family inns to Michelin-starred gastrotemples.
EstrambordCAMARGUAIS€
(%04 90 97 20 10; www.lestrambord.fr; Le Sambuc; 3-course menu €16-20; hnoon-2pm Sun-Fri)
A roadside diner, Camargue-style. Feast on local specialities from seafood to bull.
oLa TellineCAMARGUAIS€€
(%04 90 97 01 75; www.restaurantlatelline.fr; rte de Gageron, Villeneuve; mains €24-35; hnoon-1.15pm & 7.30-9pm Fri-Mon)
A true local favourite, this isolated cottage restaurant with sage-green wooden shutters could not be simpler or more authentic. Summer dining is in a small and peaceful flower-filled garden, and the no-frills menu features a straightforward choice of tellines (edible molluscs), salad or terrine as starter followed by grilled fish or meat, or a beef or bull steak. No credit cards.
oLe Mazet du VaccarèsCAMARGUAIS, SEAFOOD€€
(Chez Hélène et Néné; %04 90 97 10 79; www.mazet-du-vaccares.fr; south of Méjanes; 3-course menu €35; h10am-11pm Fri-Sun, closed mid-Aug–mid-Sep & mid-Dec–mid-Jan)
Gorging on fish in this legendary lakeside cabin is a feast for the eyes and belly. Memorabilia from Hélène and Néné’s days as lighthouse keepers in Beauduc fill the restaurant with soul. The jovial couple cook up one fixed menu built from the catch of local fishers. From Domaine Paul Ricard, it is a signposted 2.5km drive south along potholed gravel.
Chez BobCARMARGUAIS€€
(%04 90 97 00 29; http://restaurantbob.fr; Mas Petite Antonelle, rte du Sambuc, Villeneuve; menu €45; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9pm Wed-Sun)
This house restaurant is an iconic address adored by Arlésians. Feast on grilled bull chops, duck breasts and lamb beneath trees or inside between walls plastered in photos, posters and other memorabilia collected over the years by Jean-Guy, alias 'Bob'. Find his pad 20km south of Arles in Villeneuve, 800m after the crossroads on the D37 towards Salin. Reserve online.
La ChassagnetteGASTRONOMIC€€€
(%04 90 97 26 96; www.chassagnette.fr; rte du Sambuc; mains €37-39; hnoon-1.30pm & 7-9.30pm Thu-Mon Mar-Jun, Sep & Oct; daily Jul & Aug; reduced Nov-Mar)
Inhaling the scent of sun-ripened tomatoes is one of many pleasures at this 19th-century sheepfold – the ultimate top-euro Camargue dine. Alain Ducasse prodigy Armand Arnal cooks up a 100% organic menu, grows much of it himself and woos guests with a mosquito-protected outside terrace. Look for the fork and trowel sign, 12km southeast of Arles on the southbound D36, just north of Le Sambuc.
Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Pop pop 2400
This remote seaside outpost has a rough-and-tumble holidaymaker feel, with whitewashed buildings crowding dusty streets. During its Roma pilgrimages, street-cooked pans of paella fuel chaotic crowds of carnivalesque guitarists, dancers and mounted cowboys. Tickets for bullfights and courses Camarguaises are sold at the seafront village arena.
THE STORY OF THE MARYS & GITAN PILGRIMAGES
Catholicism first reached European shores in what's now tiny Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The stories say that Stes Marie-Salomé and Marie-Jacobé (and some say Mary Magdalene) fled the Holy Land in a little boat and were caught in a storm, drifting at sea until washing ashore here.
Provençal and Catholic lore diverge at this point: Catholicism relates that Sara, patron saint of the gitans (Roma Gitano people, also known as gypsies), travelled with the two Marys on the boat. Provençal legend says Sara was already here and was the first person to recognise their holiness. In 1448 skeletal remains said to belong to Sara and the two Marys were found in a crypt in Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
Gitans continue to make pilgrimages, Pèlerinage des Gitans, here on 24 and 25 May (often staying for up to three weeks), dancing and playing music in the streets, and parading a statue of Sara through town. The Sunday in October closest to the 22nd sees a second pilgrimage dedicated to the two Stes Maries; courses Camarguaises are also held at this time.
1Sights & Activities
Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer is fringed by 30km of fine-sand beaches, easily reached by bicycle. Nudist beaches surround the Gacholle lighthouse off the Digue à la Mer.
Bicycles are ideal on the Camargue's flat terrain. East of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, seafront paths like Digue à la Mer are reserved for walkers and cyclists. The following both deliver bikes for free to hotels.
Le Vélo Saintois (%04 90 97 74 56; www.levelosaintois.camargue.fr; 19 rue de la République, Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer; per day adult/child €15/13.50, tandem €30; h9am-7pm Mar-Nov), with an English-language list of cycling routes, rents bikes of all sizes.
Le Vélociste (%04 90 97 83 26; www.levelociste.fr; place Mireille, Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer; per day adult/child €15/13.50; h9am-7pm Mar-Nov) rents and organises cycling-horseback (€36) or cycling-canoeing (€30) packages.
oÉglise des Stes-MariesCHURCH
(www.sanctuaire-des-saintesmaries.fr; place Jean XXIII; hrooftop 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat, 2-5pm Sun)
This 12th- to 15th-century church, with its dark, hushed, candle-wax-scented atmosphere, draws legions of pilgrim Roma to venerate the statue of Sara, their revered patron saint, during the Pèlerinage des Gitans. The relics of Sara and those of Marie-Salomé and Marie-Jacobé, all found in the crypt by King René in 1448, are enshrined in a wooden chest, stashed in the stone wall above the choir. Don't miss the panorama from the rooftop terrace (€2.50).
Les Quatre MariesBOATING
(%04 90 97 70 10; www.bateaux-4maries.camargue.fr; 36 av Théodore Aubanel, Stes-Maries de la Mer; 1½hr adult/child €12/6 ; hmid-Mar–Oct)
Powerboat company offering trips through the marshy Camargue.
Le CamargueBOATING
(%06 17 95 81 96; http://bateau-camargue.com; 5 rue des Launes, Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer; 1½hr adult/child €12/6 ; hmid-Mar–Oct)
Explore the Camargue marshlands via this powerboat company, with a kiosk on Av Théodore Aubanel.
4Sleeping
Hôtel MéditerranéeHOTEL€
(%04 90 97 82 09; www.hotel-mediterranee.camargue.fr; 4 av Frédéric Mistral; d/tr/q from €48/75/85; hmid-Mar–mid-Nov; a)
This whitewashed cottage hotel, festooned with an abundance of flowerpots steps from the sea, is truly a steal. Its 14 rooms – three with their own little terrace garden – are spotlessly clean, and breakfast (€7) is served in summer on a pretty vine-covered patio garden – equally festooned with strawberry plants, geraniums and other potted flowers. Bike rental €15 per day.
Camping Le Clos du RhôneCAMPGROUND€
(%04 90 97 85 99; www.camping-leclos.fr; rte d'Aigues Mortes; tent, car & 2 adults €26.50; hApr-Oct; iWsc)
Right by the beach, this large and well-equipped campground sports the whole range of accomodation options: tent pitches, wooden chalets, self-catering cottages. The pool with two-lane water slide and a beachside spa with jacuzzi and hammam make it a real family favourite.
oLodge Sainte HélèneBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€
(%04 90 97 83 29; www.lodge-saintehelene.com; chemin Bas des Launes; d €150-190; aiWs)
These designer-chic, pearly-white terraced cottages strung along a lake edge are prime real estate for birdwatchers and romance seekers. The mood is exclusive, remote and so quiet you can practically hear flamingo wings flapping overhead. Each room comes with a birdwatchers' guide and binoculars, and dynamic owner Benoît Noel is a font of local knowledge. Breakfast €15.
5Eating
oLa Cabane aux CoquillagesSEAFOOD€
(%06 10 30 33 49; www.degustationcoquillages-lessaintesmariesdelamer.com; 16 av Van Gogh; shellfish €6.50-12.50; hnoon-3pm & 5-11pm Apr-Nov)
The shellfish-and-apéro branch of neighbouring Ô Pica Pica, this bright blue 'shack' with crates of crustaceans piled high inside and a gaggle of sea-blue chairs outside is pure gold. Wash down half a dozen oysters (€6.50), locally harvested tellines (€8.50) or your choice of fritures (deep-fried and battered baby prawns, baby squid or anchovies, €12.50) with a glass of chilled white, and enter nirvana.
oÔ Pica PicaSEAFOOD€€
(%06 10 30 33 49; www.degustationcoquillages-lessaintesmariesdelamer.com; 16 av Van Gogh; mains €17-22; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Mar-Nov)
Fish and shellfish do not come fresher than this. Watch them get gutted, filleted and grilled in the 'open' glass-walled kitchen, then devour your meal on the sea-facing pavement terrace or out back in the typically Mediterranean white-walled garden. Simplicity is king here: plastic glasses, fish and shellfish platters; no coffee and no credit cards.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
DINING SUR LA PLAGE
Lunch sur la plage (on the beach) never fails to seduce and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer lives up to the promise with two hip and dandy beach restaurants, both open May to September.
Heading east towards the Digue à la Mer on sandy Plage Est is La Playa (%06 29 48 82 01; www.laplaya-en-camargue.fr; Plage Est; mains €17-20; h8am-midnight May-Sep; W), a chic choice, with a particularly vibrant apéro (predinner drink) and after-dark scene, shoals of fresh fish cooked up à la plancha (grilled), and a great daytime buzz revolving around tasty lunches, free wi-fi and super-comfy sunloungers on the sand.
In the opposite direction, on equally sandy Plage Ouest, is Calypso – Lou Santen (%07 71 03 43 46; av Riquette Aubanel, Plage Ouest; fish & shellfish platters €12-16, mains €19.50-23; h10am-7pm May-Sep, to 11pm Sat Jul & Aug), shaded by a typical reed pergola with a picture-postcard view of the sea. Feast on good-value, finger-licking bowls of moules (mussels) at tables on an elevated wooden-decking terrace, then rent a sunlounger (€12) for a sand-side siesta.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(%04 90 97 82 55; www.saintesmaries.com; 5 av Van Gogh; h9am-7pm)
Guided walking tours (€7) depart 2pm Tuesday and Friday.
8Getting There & Around
Le Vélo Saintois and Le Vélociste hire bicycles. Seasonal buses to/from Arles (www.lepilote.com; €2.90, one hour, eight daily) use the bus shelter at the northern entrance to town on av d’Arles (the continuation of rte d’Arles and the D570).