Avignon & Around

Why Go?

Encircled by crenellated ramparts dating back 800 years, Avignon lords above the mighty Rhône. Its 14th-century hilltop palace – the former seat of popes – defines the skyline and begs for exploration, while the narrow streets and leafy squares fanning out beneath it invite wandering.

Rolling countryside unfurls outside Avignon, dotted with ancient villages and vineyards that produce some of France's best wines. Sample renowned vintages in Châteauneuf-du-Pape or in the saw-toothed Dentelles de Montmirail. Discover incredibly preserved Roman ruins in Orange, Nîmes and St-Rémy-de-Provence, and explore medieval streets in Vaison-la-Romaine and Les Baux-de-Provence.

The glass-green River Sorgue – ready-made for canoeing – connects picturesque towns like L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, celebrated for antiques shopping, and Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, the river's mysterious source. Hikers and bikers flock to windswept Mont Ventoux, Provence's highest peak, rising from purple lavender fields that perfume the summer breeze.

Driving Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

A L'Oustau de Baumanière

A Le Verger des Papes

A Le Moulin à Huile

A Le Vivier

A 83.Vernet

A Christian Etienne

Best Places to Stay

A Hôtel La Mirande

A Sous les Figuiers

A La Prévôté

A Mas de l'Amarine

Avignon & Around Highlights

1 Explore palaces, bridges and ancient streets in Avignon.

2 Sample France's great wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

3 Revive Rome at the Théâtre Antique in Orange.

4 Climb to hilltop, medieval Vaison-la-Romaine.

5 Paddle beneath the famous Pont du Gard.

6 Village-hop through the Dentelles de Montmirail.

7 Ascend Provence's mightiest peak, Mont Ventoux.

8 Antique-shop and explore canals in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.

9 Spot royalty, explore Roman ruins and make a pilgrimage to Van Gogh's last home in St-Rémy-de-Provence.

a Joust with gladiatorial ghosts at the spectacular arena in Nîmes.

Avignon

Pop 91,250

Graceful Avignon's turn as the seat of papal power bestowed on the city a treasury of magnificent art and architecture, none grander than the massive medieval fortress and papal palace, Palais des Papes. Ringed by incredibly preserved 800-year-old stone ramparts, Avignon is now a lively student city, its ancient cobbled streets lined with inviting boutiques and its leafy squares overflowing with cafe tables. In July thousands come for the renowned performing-arts festival.

History

Avignon first gained its ramparts – and reputation for arts and culture – during the 14th century, when Pope Clement V fled political turmoil in Rome. From 1309 to 1377, seven French-born popes invested huge sums in the papal palace and offered asylum to Jews and political dissidents. Pope Gregory XI left Avignon in 1376, but his death two years later led to the Great Schism (1378–1417), during which rival popes (up to three at one time) resided at Rome and Avignon, denouncing and excommunicating one another. Even after the matter was settled and an impartial pope, Martin V, established himself in Rome, Avignon remained under papal rule. Avignon and Comtat Venaissin (now the Vaucluse département) were ruled by papal legates until 1791.

Avignon

1Top Sights

1Collection LambertB5

2Musée CalvetB4

3Musée du Petit PalaisC1

4Palais des PapesC2

5Place du PalaisC2

6Pont St-BénezetC1

1Sights

7Basilique St-PierreD3

8Musée AngladonC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

9Le Carré du PalaisC2

10Les Grands Bateaux de ProvenceA3

4Sleeping

11Autour du Petit ParadisD4

12Camping & Auberge BagatelleA1

13Hôtel BoquierC5

14Hôtel de l'HorlogeC3

15Hôtel La MirandeC2

16Hôtel MignonB3

17Hôtel SplendidC5

18La BanasterieD2

19Le LimasB2

20LumaniF1

21Villa de MargotD1

5Eating

2283.VernetB5

23Christian EtienneC3

24Fou de FafaD4

25Ginette et MarcelD5

26La Cuisine du DimancheD3

27La TropézienneB3

Le MarmitonC2

28L'Epice and LoveD5

29L'ÉpicerieC3

30Les 5 SensB3

31Les HallesD4

32L'UbuE4

33MonoprixC4

34Numéro 75F5

35Restaurant L'EssentielB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

36BalthazarC5

37Cafe la ScèneB2

La ManutentionD2

38L'EsclaveB2

39Milk ShopC5

3Entertainment

40AJMID2

41Opéra Théâtre d'AvignonC3

7Shopping

42Oliviers & CoB3

1Sights & Activities

Ticket offices for sights close 30 to 60 minutes before overall closing time.

oPalais des PapesPALACE

(Papal Palace; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.palais-des-papes.com; place du Palais; adult/child €11/9, with Pont St-Bénezet €13.50/10.50; h9am-8pm Jul, to 8.30pm Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun)

Palais des Papes, a Unesco World Heritage Site, is the world’s largest Gothic palace. Built when Pope Clement V abandoned Rome in 1309, it was the papal seat for 70-odd years. The immense scale testifies to the papacy's wealth; the 3m-thick walls, portcullises and watchtowers show their insecurity.

It takes imagination to picture the former luxury of these bare, cavernous stone halls, but multimedia audioguides (€2) assist. Highlights include 14th-century chapel frescoes by Matteo Giovannetti, and the Chambre du Cerf with medieval hunting scenes.

Ask at the ticket desk about guided tours.

oPlace du PalaisSQUARE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

A golden statue of the Virgin Mary (weighing 4.5 tonnes) stands on the dome of Romanesque Cathédrale Notre Dame des Doms (built 1671–72), outstretched arms protecting the city. Next to the cathedral, the hilltop Rocher des Doms gardens provide knockout views of the Rhône, Mont Ventoux and Les Alpilles; there's also a playground. Opposite the palace, the much-photographed building dripping with carvings of fruit and heraldic beasts is the 17th-century former mint, Hôtel des Monnaies.

oPont St-BénezetBRIDGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; bd du Rhône; adult/child 24hr ticket €5/4, with Palais des Papes €13.50/10.50; h9am-8pm Jul, to 8.30pm Aug, shorter hours Sep-Jun)

Legend says Pastor Bénezet had three saintly visions urging him to build a bridge across the Rhône. Completed in 1185, the 900m-long bridge with 20 arches linked Avignon with Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. It was rebuilt several times before all but four of its spans were washed away in the 1600s.

If you don't want to pay to visit the bridge, admire it free from Rocher des Doms park or Pont Édouard Daladier or on Île de la Barthelasse's chemin des Berges.

Don't be surprised if you spot someone dancing: in France, the bridge is known as Pont d’Avignon after the nursery rhyme: 'Sur le pont d’Avignon/L’on y danse, l'on y danse…' (On Avignon Bridge, all are dancing…)

oMusée CalvetMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 33 84; www.musee-calvet.org; 65 rue Joseph Vernet; adult/child €6/3; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon)

Elegant Hôtel de Villeneuve-Martignan (built 1741–54) provides a fitting backdrop for Avignon's fine-arts museum, with 16th- to 20th-century oil paintings, compelling prehistoric pieces, 15th-century wrought iron, and the elongated landscapes of Avignonnais artist Joseph Vernet.

oMusée du Petit PalaisMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.petit-palais.org; place du Palais; adult/child €6/free; h10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed-Mon)

The archbishops' palace during the 14th and 15th centuries now houses outstanding collections of primitive, pre-Rennaissance, 13th- to 16th-century Italian religious paintings by artists including Botticelli, Carpaccio and Giovanni di Paolo – the most famous is Botticelli’s La Vierge et l’Enfant (1470).

oCollection LambertGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.collectionlambert.com; 5 rue Violette; adult/child €10/8; h11am-6pm Tue-Sun Sep-May, to 7pm daily Jul & Aug)

Reopened in summer 2015 after significant renovation and expansion, Avignon's contemporary-arts museum focuses on works from the 1960s to the present. Work spans from minimalist and conceptual to video and photography – in stark contrast to the classic 18th-century mansion housing it.

Musée AngladonMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.angladon.com; 5 rue Laboureur; adult/child €6.50/4.50; h1-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–Nov, closed Mon & Tue mid-Nov–mid-Mar; W)

Tiny Musée Angladon harbours impressionist treasures, including Railway Wagons, the only Van Gogh in Provence (look closely and notice the ‘earth’ isn’t paint but bare canvas). Also displayed is a handful of early Picasso sketches and artworks by Cézanne, Sisley, Manet and Degas; upstairs are antiques and 17th-century paintings.

Le Carré du PalaisWINE TASTING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 27 24 00; www.carredupalaisavignon.com; 1 place du Palais)

The historic Hôtel Calvet de la Palun building in central Avignon has been renovated into a wine centre promoting and serving Côtes du Rhône and Vallée du Rhône appellations. Stop in to get a taste of the local vintages.

TTours

The tourist office leads year-round themed, guided walks (from €15) in English and French, and has good self-guided-tour maps, also online.

Les Grands Bateaux de ProvenceBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 62 25; www.mireio.net; allées de l’Oulle; boat tours incl meal adult/child from €40/28)

Runs day-long boat tours to Arles, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Tarascon. Dinner cruises draw older crowds with dancing and live entertainment.

Avignon Wine TourTOUR

(%06 28 05 33 84; www.avignon-wine-tour.com; per person €80-100)

Visit the region’s vineyards with a knowledgeable guide, leaving you free to enjoy the wine.

zFestivals & Events

oFestival d'AvignonPERFORMING ARTS

(www.festival-avignon.com; hJul)

The three-week annual Festival d’Avignon is one of the world’s great performing-arts festivals. Over 40 international works of dance and drama play to 100,000-plus spectators at venues around town. Tickets don't go on sale until springtime, but hotels sell out by February.

Festival OffPERFORMING ARTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.avignonleoff.com; hJul)

The Festival d'Avignon is paralleled by a simultaneous fringe event, Festival Off, with eclectic (and cheaper) experimental programming. La Carte Off (€16) gives a 30% discount.

4Sleeping

oHôtel BoquierHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 34 43; www.hotel-boquier.com; 6 rue du Portail Boquier; s & d/tr/q from €65/86/99; aWc)

It sits on a rather shabby side street, but the owners' infectious enthusiasm and the colourful rooms at this small hotel compensate; try for themed rooms Morocco or Lavender. Excellent value. Breakfast €9.

Hôtel MignonHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 17 30; www.hotel-mignon.com; 12 rue Joseph Vernet; s €40-60, d €65-77, tr €80-99, q €105; aiWc)

Bathrooms might be tiny and the stairs steep and narrow, but Hôtel Mignon (literally 'Cute Hotel') remains excellent value. Its 16 rooms are clean and comfortable, and the hotel sits on Avignon's smartest shopping street. Breakfast €7.

Hôtel SplendidHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 14 46; www.avignon-splendid-hotel.com; 17 rue Agricol Perdiguier; s €54-76, d €76-100, tr €110; aW)S

Splendidly set on a side street off cafe-clad place des Corps Saints, Hôtel Splendid is one of several hotels on the same street and is a great budget base for exploring Avignon – by day and night. Breakfast €9.

La PénicheHOUSEBOAT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 25 40 61, mobile/cell 06 62 37 25 17; www.chambrepeniche.fr; chemin île Piot, Île de la Barthelasse; houseboats €80-95; aWs)

Rock to sleep aboard Avignon's most unique chambre d'hôte (B&B). Moored across the river, a 10-minute walk on Île de la Barthelasse, this four-room barge-houseboat gleams and has a small self-catering kitchen. Extras include a wading pool and free bikes.

Camping & Auberge BagatelleCAMPGROUND€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 30 39; www.campingbagatelle.com; Île de la Barthelasse; sites for tent, car & 2 people €25, dm incl breakfast from €21; hreception 8am-9pm; i)

Shaded and just 20 minutes' walk from the city centre on an adjacent small island in the Rhône. It also has basic two- to eight-bed dorms.

oLe LimasB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 14 67 19; www.le-limas-avignon.com; 51 rue du Limas; s/d/tr from €130/150/250; aiW)

This chic B&B in an 18th-century town house, like something out of Vogue Living, is everything designers strive for when mixing old and new: state-of-the-art kitchen and minimalist white decor complementing antique fireplaces and 18th-century spiral stairs. Breakfast on the sun-drenched terrace is divine, darling.

LumaniB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 94 11; www.avignon-lumani.com; 37 rue du Rempart St-Lazare; d/ste from €110/160; aW)

Art fills this fabulous maison d’hôte, a wealth of inspiration for painters. Rooms include two suites and there’s a fountained garden.

Hôtel de l'HorlogeHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 16 42 00; www.hotels-ocre-azur.com; place de l'Horloge; d €125-200; aW)

Most rooms at this super-central 19th-century stone-walled hotel (with elevator) are straightforward (comfortable, all mod cons), but five terrace rooms have the edge with knockout views – room 505 overlooks the Palais des Papes.

Villa de MargotB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 62 34; http://demargot.fr; 24 rue des Trois Colombes; d €110-190; aW)

A charming, quiet old-city address, this 19th-century private home, converted into an elegant guesthouse, has a walled garden and rooftop views. Rooms are styled like their names: 'Oriental', 'Royal', 'Art Deco' and 'Romantic'.

Autour du Petit ParadisAPARTMENT€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 81 00 42; www.autourdupetitparadis.com; 5 rue Noël Biret; apt nightly €120-200, weekly from €665; aiWc)

Live like a local in a 17th-century stone house converted into a small apartment-hotel. Scrupulously maintained, each has a kitchenette, ideal for travelers who like style but want to cook their own local cuisine.

La BanasterieB&B€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 87 72 96 36; www.labanasterie.com; 11 rue de la Banasterie; r €100-145; aiW)

Earthy tones warm up the cosy rooms in this town house turned B&B tucked behind the Palais des Papes. There's no elevator, but the husband-and-wife team who run the place offer heaps of local knowledge and a home away from home.

oHôtel La MirandeHOTEL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 14 20 20; www.la-mirande.fr; 4 place de la Mirande; d from €450; aiW)

Avignon’s top hotel occupies a converted 16th-century palace, with dramatic interiors decked in oriental rugs, gold-threaded tapestries, marble staircases and over-the-top Gallic style. Low-end rooms are small but still conjure the feeling of staying overnight in someone’s private château. Its restaurant, Le Marmiton ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4 place de la Mirande; mains from €35, chef's table €86), is a slow and glittering affair and also offers cooking classes (from €90).

Le Marmiton has a twice-weekly chef’s table (reservations essential); afternoon tea is served (albeit slowly) in the lobby or garden.

SLEEPING: AVIGNON AREA

For stays in July during the Festival d'Avignon, reserve by January (if not earlier); expect minimum-stay requirements and premium rates. Ask if there's parking. Orange and Carpentras, both 30 minutes away, are dull by comparison but make less expensive bases.

5Eating

Place de l’Horloge is crammed with touristy restaurants that don’t offer the best cuisine or value in town. Delve instead into the pedestrian old town where ample pretty squares tempt: place des Châtaignes and place de la Principle are two particularly beautiful restaurant-clad squares.

Restaurants open seven days during the summer festival season, when reservations become essential.

Local treat papaline d’Avignon is a pink chocolate ball filled with potent Mont Ventoux herbal liqueur.

L'Epice and LoveFRENCH€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 45 96; 30 rue des Lices; mains €11-12; h7-10pm Mon-Sat)

Tables are cheek by jowl at this tiny bohemian restaurant – our favorite for budget dining – with nothing fancy, just straightforward bistro fare, stews, roasts and other reliably good, home-style French dishes. Cash only.

Ginette et MarcelCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 58 70; 27 place des Corps Saints; tartines €4-7; h11am-11pm Wed-Mon; c)

Set on one of Avignon's most happening plane-tree-shaded squares, this vintage cafe styled like a 1950s grocery is a charming spot to hang out and people-watch over a tartine (open-face sandwich), tart, salad or other light dish – equally tasty for lunch or an early-evening apéro (predinner drink). Kids adore Ginette's cherry- and violet-flavoured cordials and Marcel's glass jars of old-fashioned sweets.

o83.VernetMODERN FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 99 04; www.83vernet.com; 83 rue Joseph Vernet; menus lunch €19.50, dinner €24-30; hnoon-3pm & 7pm-1am Mon-Sat)

Forget flowery French descriptions. The menu is straightforward and to the point at this strikingly contemporary address, magnificently at home in the 18th-century cloistered courtyard of a medieval college. Expect pan-seared scallops, squid à la plancha (grilled) and beef steak in pepper sauce, and watch for weekend events that transform the lounge-style restaurant into the town's hippest dance floor.

oRestaurant L'EssentielFRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 87 12; www.restaurantlessentiel.com; 2 rue Petite Fusterie; lunch menu €15, dinner menus €31-45; hnoon-2pm & 7-9.45pm Tue-Sat)

Snug in an elegant, caramel-stone hôtel particulier (private mansion). The Essential is one of the finest places to eat in town – inside or in the wonderful courtyard garden. Begin with zucchini flowers poached in a crayfish and truffle sauce, then continue with rabbit stuffed with candied eggplant, perhaps.

Numéro 75MODERN FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 27 16 00; www.numero75.com; 75 rue Guillaume Puy; 2-/3-course menus from €30/37; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-9.35pm Mon-Sat)

The chic dining room, in the former mansion of absinthe inventor Jules Pernod, is a fitting backdrop to the stylised Mediterranean cooking. Menus change nightly and include just a handful of mains, but brevity guarantees freshness. Starter/main-course-sized salades goumandes (€9/18), served only at lunchtime, are good value. On balmy nights, reserve a table in the elegant courtyard garden.

La Cuisine du DimanchePROVENçAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 99 10; www.lacuisinedudimanche.com; 31 rue de la Bonneterie; lunch menu €17, mains €18-25; hnoon-1.30pm & 8-9.45pm Jun-Sep, Wed-Sun Nov-Mar)

Spitfire chef Marie shops every morning at Les Halles to find the freshest ingredients for her earthy flavour-packed cooking. The menu changes daily, although staples include scallops and simple roast chicken with pan gravy. The narrow stone-walled dining room mixes contemporary resin chairs with antique crystal goblets to reflect the chef’s eclecticism. Evening dining is only à la carte.

L'ÉpicerieBISTRO€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 74 22; www.restaurantlepicerie.fr; 10 place St-Pierre; menus lunch/dinner from €16/23; hnoon-2.30pm & 8-10pm)

Racing-green tables, chairs and parasols flag this popular bistro on a gorgeous cobblestone square. The Grocery makes its own foie gras, served with a Muscat-fired onion chutney, and mains reflect the market. Excite apéro tastebuds with an assiette de l'épicerie (€19), a mixed platter of Provençal produce: tomato crème brûlée, melon wedges, stuffed veg, olive cake, tapenade and so on.

Fou de FafaBISTRO€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 32 76 35 13; 17 rue des Trois Faucons; 2-/3-course menu €25/31; h6.30-11pm Wed-Sun; c)

A typical French bistro, Fou de Fafa's strength lies in simplicity – fresh ingredients, bright flavours, convivial surroundings (and a notably early opening time handy for families with young children). Dining is between soft golden-stone walls and the chef gives a fresh spin to classics. Magret de canard (duck breast) in a strawberry and balsamic reduction, anyone?

oChristian EtiennePROVENçAL€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 16 50; www.christian-etienne.fr; 10 rue de Mons; lunch/dinner menus from €35/75; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

One of Avignon’s top tables, this much-vaunted restaurant occupies a 12th-century palace with a leafy outdoor terrace, adjacent to Palais des Papes. Interiors feel slightly dated, but the refined Provençal cuisine remains exceptional, and the restaurant has earned a Michelin star.

Les 5 SensGASTRONOMIC€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 26 51; www.restaurantles5sens.com; 18 rue Joseph Vernet; menus lunch €16-22, dinner €40-59; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.45-11.30pm Tue-Sat)

Chef Thierry Baucher, one of France's meilleurs ouvriers (top chefs), reveals his southwestern origins in specialities such as cassoulet (rich bean, pork and duck stew) and foie gras but skews contemporary-Mediterranean in gastronomic dishes such as butternut-squash ravioli with escargots. Surroundings are sleek; service is impeccable.

Self-Catering

Les HallesMARKET€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.avignon-leshalles.com; place Pie; h6am-1.30pm Tue-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun)

Over 40 food stalls showcase seasonal Provençal ingredients. Cooking demonstrations are held at 11am Saturday. Outside on place Pie, admire Patrick Blanc's marvellous vegetal wall.

La TropéziennePATISSERIE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 24 72; 22 rue St-Agricol; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)

St-Tropez’ famous cream-and-cake tarte Tropézienne, plus other treats.

MonoprixSUPERMARKET€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 24 rue de la République; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat)

Catch-all supermarket in the centre of Avignon.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Chic yet laid-back Avignon is awash with gorgeous, tree-shaded pedestrian squares buzzing with cafe life. Favourite options, loaded with pavement terraces and drinking opportunities, include place Crillon (full-frontal view of medieval Avignon's crenellated city walls), place Pie (green views of Les Halles' vegetal facade), place de l'Horloge (hard-core tourist zone with kids' carousel) and Place des Corps Saints (more laid-back).

oBalthazarBISTRO, BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 88 07 36 09; www.bistrotbalthazar.com; 74 place des Corps Saints; h8.30-1am Mon-Sat)

With its deep-red canopy and black seating, Balthazar makes a bold statement. It's hip for casual lunch and dinner dining, but it's at its most rocking for early-evening aperitifs and after-dark drinks. When the munchies hit, French classics like pot au feu (beef stew) and braised pork cheek are on offer alongside tasty homemade burgers and other funkier fare (menus from €24).

oLa ManutentionBAR, CAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 4 rue des Escaliers Ste-Anne; hnoon-midnight)

No address better reflects Avignon's artsy soul than this bistro-bar at cultural centre La Manutention. Its leafy terrace basks in the shade of Palais des Papes' stone walls and, inside, giant conservatory-style windows open onto the funky decor of pocket-size bar Utopia. Grilled tartines (€4.50) and light assiettes (mixed platters) make ideal companions to pre- or posttheatre drinks; there's a cinema too.

L’EsclaveGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 14 91; 12 rue du Limas; h11.30pm-7am Tue-Sun)

Avignon’s inner-city gay bar rocks well into the wee hours, pulling a clientele that is not always that quiet, based on dozens of neighbour-considerate 'be quiet' signs plastered outside.

Cafe la ScèneCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 14 70; 19 place Crillon; h9am-1am)

On pretty place Crillon, La Scène's outdoor tables are good for drinks and small bites; inside there's a dance floor and cabaret.

Milk ShopCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %09 82 54 16 82; www.milkshop.fr; 26 place des Corps Saints; bagels €5-7, shakes €4.50; h7.45am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-7pm Sat; W)

Keen to mingle with Avignon students? Make a beeline for this salon au lait ('milk bar') where super-thick ice-cream shakes are slurped through extra-wide straws. Bagels, cupcakes and other American snacks create a deliberate US vibe, while comfy armchairs and wi-fi encourage hanging out.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

EDGY EATING

Canal-side rue des Teinturiers (literally ‘street of dyers’) is a picturesque pedestrian street known for its alternative vibe in Avignon’s old dyer’s district. A hive of industrial activity until the 19th century, the street today is renowned for its bohemian bistros, cafes and gallery-workshops. Stone ‘benches’ in the shade of ancient plane trees make the perfect perch to ponder the irresistible trickle of the River Sorgue, safeguarded since the 16th century by Chapelle des Pénitents Gris. Those in the know dine at L’Ubu ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 80 01 01; 13 rue des Teinturiers; starters/mains €7.50/16.50; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm), with a tiny, daily-changing menu chalked on the blackboard.

3Entertainment

Avignon is one of the premier cities for theatre in France; tickets for concerts and events are sold at the tourist office billetterie (box office).

Opéra Théâtre d'AvignonPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 82 81 40; www.operagrandavignon.fr; place de l'Horloge; hbox office 11am-6pm Tue-Sat)

Built 1847, Avignon's main classical venue presents operas, plays, chamber music and ballet from October to June.

AJMIJAZZ, LIVE MUSIC

(Association pour le Jazz & la Musique Improvisée; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 08 61; www.jazzalajmi.com; 4 rue des Escaliers Ste-Anne, La Manutention)

Inside La Manutention arts centre, AJMI showcases improvisational jazz at its intimate 2nd-floor (no elevator) black-box theatre.

AVIGNON PASS

An excellent-value discount card, Avignon Passion yields cheaper admission to big-hitter museums and monuments in Avignon and Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. The first site visited is full price, but each subsequent site is discounted. The pass is free, is valid 15 days, covers a couple of tours too, and is available at the tourist office and at museums.

7Shopping

Find high-end antique shops along the rue du Limas, mainstream shopping on rue de la République, and boutiques on its side streets, such as rue St-Agricol.

Oliviers & CoBEAUTY, FOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 86 18 41; www.oliviers-co.com; 19 rue St-Agricol; h2-7pm Mon, 10am-7pm Tue-Sat)

Fine olive oil and olive-oil-based products such as soap, creams and biscuits.

8Information

Police StationPOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 32 40 55 55; 14 bd St-Roch)

Centre Hospitalier AvignonHOSPITAL

(%04 32 75 33 33; www.ch-avignon.fr; 305 rue Raoul Follereau)

Marked on maps as Hôpital Sud, 2.5km south of the central train station; take bus 2, 6 or 14.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 32 74 32 74; www.avignon-tourisme.com; 41 cours Jean Jaurès; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, 10am-noon Sun Apr-Oct, shorter hours rest of year)

Offers guided walking tours and information on other tours and activities, including boat trips on the Rhône and wine-tasting trips to nearby vineyards. Smartphone apps too.

Tourist Office AnnexeTOURIST INFORMATION

(Avignon TGV station; hJun-Aug)

During summer, Avignon has an information booth at the TGV station.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Aéroport Avignon-ProvenceAIRPORT

(AVN; GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 81 51 51; www.avignon.aeroport.fr; Caumont)

In Caumont, 8km southeast of Avignon. Direct flights to London, Birmingham and Southampton in the UK.

Bus

The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; bd St-Roch; hinformation window 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) is next to the central railway station. Tickets are sold on board. For schedules, see www.lepilote.com, www.info-ler.fr and www.vaucluse.fr. Long-haul companies Linebus ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 30 48; www.linebus.com) and Eurolines ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 85 27 60; www.eurolines.com) have offices at the far end of bus platforms and serve places like Barcelona.

AAix-en-Provence €45, 1¼ hours

AArles €6, 1½ hours

ACarpentras €2, 45 minutes

ANîmes €1.50, 1¼ hours

AOrange €2, 45 minutes

Car

Find car-hire agencies at both train stations (reserve ahead, especially in July). Narrow, one-way streets and impossible parking make driving within the ramparts difficult: park outside the walls. The city has 900 free spaces at Parking de L'Ile Piot ( GOOGLE MAP ), and 1150 at Parking des Italiens ( GOOGLE MAP ), both under surveillance and served by the free TCRA shuttle bus. On directional signs at intersections, 'P' in yellow means pay lots; 'P' in green, free lots. Pay Parking Gare Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 80 74 40; bd St-Roch; h24hr) is next to the central train station.

Train

Avignon has two train stations: Gare Avignon Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; 42 bd St-Roch), on the southern edge of the walled town, and Gare Avignon TGV ( GOOGLE MAP ; Courtine), 4km southwest in Courtine. Local shuttle trains link the two every 20 minutes (€1.60, five minutes, 6am to 11pm). Or, from the TGV station, get into Avignon on LER bus 18 or 22, or TCRA bus 10. LER bus 18 serves Arles, too. There is no luggage storage.

Some TGVs to/from Paris (€90 to €130, 3½ hours) stop at Gare Avignon Centre, but TGVs to/from Marseille (€26, 35 minutes) and Nice (€45 to €60, 3¼ hours) only use Gare Avignon TGV. Eurostar (www.eurostar.com) services operate one to five times weekly between Avignon TGV and London (from €180, 5¾ hours) en route to/from Marseille.

Gare Avignon Centre is served by regular-speed TER trains.

AArles €8, 20 minutes

AMarseille €24, 1¼ to two hours

AMarseille airport (Vitrolles station) €18, one to 1½ hours

ANîmes €11, 30 minutes

AOrange €6.50, 22 minutes

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

From the airport TCRA bus 30 (www.tcra.fr; €1.30, 25 minutes, Monday to Saturday) goes to the post office and LER bus 22 (www.info-ler.fr; €1.50) goes to the Avignon bus station and TGV station. Taxis cost about €35.

Bicycle & Motorcycle

VélopopBICYCLE

(%08 10 45 64 56; www.velopop.fr)

Shared-bicycle service, with 17 stations around town. The first half-hour is free; each additional half-hour is €1. Membership per day/week is €1/5.

Provence BikeBICYCLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 27 92 61; www.provence-bike.com; 7 av St-Ruf; bicycles per day/week from €12/65, scooters €25/150; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, plus 10am-1pm Sun Jul)

Rents city bikes, mountain bikes, scooters and motorcycles.

Boat

Shuttleboat to Île de la BarthelasseFERRY

(Navette Fluviale; GOOGLE MAP )F

The free shuttleboat from near the base of Pont Saint Bénezet to Île de la Barthelasse runs mid-February through December.

Bus

TCRABUS

(Transports en Commun de la Région d’Avignon; %04 32 74 18 32; www.tcra.fr)

Buses run from 7am till about 8pm. The main transfer points are Poste (main post office) and place Pie. For Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, take bus 5. Tickets (€1.30) are sold on board.

Taxi

Taxi-Radio AvignonTAXI

(%04 90 82 20 20)

DON'T MISS

BEST REGIONAL MARKETS

To appreciate Provence's seasonal bounty, visit its markets (www.marches-provence.com); most run from 8am to noon. In Nîmes, the covered food market operates daily; Avignon's Les Halles operates Tuesday to Sunday.

AMonday Bédoin, Fontvieille.

ATuesday Tarascon, Vaison-la-Romaine.

AWednesday Malaucène, Sault, St-Rémy-de-Provence, Valréas.

AThursday Beaucaire, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (small), Maillane, Maussane-les-Alpilles, Orange, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

AFriday Carpentras, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

ASaturday Pernes-les-Fontaines, Richerenches, St-Rémy-de-Provence, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.

ASunday L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue (large).

Around Avignon

Villeneuve-lès-Avignon

Pop 12,872

Across the Rhône from Avignon, compact Villeneuve-lès-Avignon has monuments to rival Avignon’s but none of the crowds. Meander the cloisters of a medieval monastery, take in hilltop views from Fort St-André and lose yourself in spectacular gardens at Abbaye St-André – reason enough to visit.

1Sights

The Avignon Passion discount pass is valid here.

oAbbaye et Jardins de l’AbbayeMONASTERY, GARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 25 55 95; www.abbayesaintandre.fr; rue Montée du Fort, Fort St-André; adult/child abbey €13/free, garden €6/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Tue-Sun Mar & Oct, to 6pm Apr)

The resplendent vaulted halls of this 10th-century abbey, within Fort St-André, can only be visited by guided tour. The stunning terrace gardens, however – built atop the abbey vaults and classed among France's top 100 gardens – can be roamed without a guide. Pathways meander among fragrant roses, iris-studded olive groves, wisteria-covered pergolas and the ruins of three ancient churches. The views of Avignon and the Rhône are spectacular.

Fort St-AndréFORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 25 45 35; rue Montée du Fort; adult/child €5.50/free; h10am-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Oct-May)

King Philip the Fair (aka Philippe le Bel) wasn’t messing around when he built defensive 14th-century Fort St-André on the then-border between France and the Holy Roman Empire: the walls are 2m thick! Today you can walk a small section of the ramparts and admire 360-degree views from the Tour des Masques (Wizards' Tower) and Tours Jumelles (Twin Towers).

Chartreuse du Val de BénédictionMONASTERY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 15 24 24; www.chartreuse.org; 58 rue de la République; adult/child €8/free; h9.30am-6.30pm May-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)

Shaded from summer's heat, the three cloisters, 24 cells, church, chapels and nook-and-cranny gardens of the Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction make up France's biggest Carthusian monastery, founded in 1352 by Pope Innocent VI, who was buried here 10 years later in an elaborate mausoleum.

Tour Philippe-le-BelLANDMARK

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 32 70 08 57; Montée de la Tour; adult/child €2.60/free; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 2-5pm Feb-Apr)

King Philip commissioned the Tour Philippe-le-Bel, 500m outside Villeneuve, to control traffic over Pont St-Bénézet to and from Avignon. The steep steps spiralling to the top reward climbers with stunning river views.

Musée Pierre de LuxembourgMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 27 49 66; 3 rue de la République; adult/child €3.60/free; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 2-5pm Nov-Apr)

Inside a 17th-century mansion, this museum's masterwork is Enguerrand Quarton’s The Crowning of the Virgin (1453), in which angels wrest souls from purgatory. Rounding out the collection are 16th- to 18th-century paintings.

4Sleeping & Eating

Find cafes and food shops around place Jean Jaurès, near Musée Pierre de Luxembourg. The tourist office has information on lodging, including several top-end inns.

YMCA-UCJGHOSTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 25 46 20; www.ymca-avignon.com; 7bis chemin de la Justice; dm €53, without bathroom €38; hreception 8.30am-6pm, closed Nov-Dec; Ws)

This spotless hostel just outside Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, and a 15-minute walk from Avignon, has some private rooms plus a swimming pool with panoramic views. Sheets are included, but towels cost €2. There is wheelchair access. Take TCRA bus 4 to the Monteau stop.

oCarré CardinalB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 22 00 00; 57 rue de la République; d/tr/ste from €85/110/120; aW)

Pretty rooms in this renovated historic building across from the Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction are kitted out with creamy linens, flat-screen TVs and modern bathrooms. Two let onto the internal courtyard; one is a two-storey suite.

Les Jardins de la LivréeB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 86 81 00 21; www.la-livree.fr; 4bis rue du Camp de Bataille; r incl breakfast €88-120; hclosed Jan–mid-Mar & late Oct–mid-Dec; aWs)

High-walled gardens and a lovely pool make this town-centre, four-room chambre d'hôte feel far removed. Free parking.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 25 61 33; www.tourisme-villeneuvelezavignon.fr; 1 place Charles David; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat, plus Sun Jul & Aug)

Guided English-language tours in July and August.

8Getting There & Away

TCRA bus 5 links Villeneuve-lès-Avignon with Avignon (it’s only 2km, but dull walking).

North of Avignon

The world-renowned vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape extend north of Avignon to Orange, a small city famous for excellently preserved Roman antiquities. Just east, Vaison-la-Romaine is also rich in ancient treasures, its narrow medieval streets an adventure to explore. Just beyond lie the compact, saw-toothed Dentelles de Montmirail mountains, with small villages known for great wines. Lording over all is windswept Mont Ventoux, Provence's mighty mountain, a magnet for bicyclists and recognised the world over as a feature of the Tour de France.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

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Carpets of vineyards unfurl around tiny, medieval Châteauneuf-du-Pape, epicentre of one of the world's great wine-growing regions. Only a small ruin remains of the château, once the summer residence of Avignon's popes, dismantled for stone after the Revolution, and ultimately bombed by Germany in WWII. Now it belongs to picnickers and day hikers, who ascend the hill for 360-degree panoramas of the Rhône Valley. It's an ideal half-day trip for wine tasting and lunch before continuing to Orange.

1Sights & Activities

The tourist office has material (also online) detailing which wineries allow visits, their tasting fees and whether they offer English-language tours. Some require appointments.

A car is easiest, but a tourist-office brochure illustrates a 16km walking circuit or you could hire a bicycle.

Château Mont-RedonWINERY

(%04 90 83 72 75; www.chateaumontredon.com; rte d'Orange, D88; h9am-7pm Apr-Sep, reduced hours rest of year ; a)

Three kilometres from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Mont-Redon is gorgeously placed amid sweeping vineyards. Large, and easy for drop-ins, it can attract weekend crowds for its respectable wines, including an excellent, mineral-y white. Tastings free.

Domaine de la SolitudeWINERY

(%04 90 83 71 45; www.domaine-solitude.com; rte de Bédarides, D192; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, by appointment Sat & Sun)

Two kilometres east of the village, appreciate Châteauneuf-du-Pape from this family-run estate, cultivated for 600 years by descendants of Pope Urbain VIII. Call ahead to receive a warm welcome, in English, as you discover elegant, rounded wines, with supple, never-harsh tannins. Tastings (free) include visits to the barrel cellar.

Caves du Verger des PapesWINERY

(%04 90 83 58 08; www.caveduverger.com; 4 montée du Château; h10am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun Jul & Aug, reduced hours rest of year)F

Beneath the town's namesake château, these small, magnificent wine caves date back 2000 years. The bar carries 80 of the town's 250 labels. English is spoken.

École de DégustationCOURSE

(Tasting School; %04 90 83 56 15; www.oenologie-mouriesse.com; 2 rue des Papes; 2hr class €40)

To appreciate the region's stellar wine, book a two-hour wine-tasting class.

CHâTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE WINES: A PRIMER

Thank geology for these luscious wines: when glaciers receded, they left a thick layer of galets scattered atop the red-clay soil; these large pebbles trap the Provençal sun, releasing heat after sunset, helping grapes ripen with steady warmth.

The Romans first planted vines here 2000 years ago, but wine-growing took off after Pope John XXII built a castle in 1317, planting vineyards to provide the court with wine. From this papally endorsed beginning, wine production flourished.

Most Châteauneuf-du-Pape is red; only 6% is white (rosé is forbidden). Strict regulations – which formed the basis for the Appellation D'origine Contrôlée (AOC) system – govern production. Reds come from 13 grape varieties – grenache is the biggie – and should age five years minimum. The full-bodied whites drink well young (except for all-roussanne varieties) and make an excellent, mineral-y aperitif that's hard to find elsewhere (but taste before buying; some may lack acidity).

4Sleeping & Eating

oLe Mas JulienB&B€€

(%04 90 34 99 49; www.mas-julien.com; 704 chemin de St Jean, Orange; d incl breakfast €105-135, studios from €135 ; aWs)

A 17th-century stone farmhouse surrounded by vineyards, Le Mas Julien's four rooms blend contemporary and Provençal style, and there's a studio apartment with kitchen that sleeps three. After a day exploring, nothing beats sprawling by the big pool, glass in hand. Between Orange and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it's ideal base for an extended stay.

oLe Verger des PapesTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 90 83 50 40; www.vergerdespapes.com; 4 rue du Château; lunch/dinner menus €20/31; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Wed-Sat, noon-2pm Sun & Tue)

Perched beneath the Châteauneuf-du-Pape château, The Popes' Orchard has drop-dead vistas of the Rhône from its stone terrace – ideal for a lingering lunch or romantic dinner (arrive before sunset). Specialities include rack of lamb for two, plus entrecôte of beef, served with macaroni-and-cheese spiked with cèpes (a type of mushroom). Park at the château and walk down. Reservations essential.

La Mère GermaineTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 90 22 78 34; www.lameregermaine.fr; place de la Fontaine; lunch/dinner menus from €24/39; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm mid-Mar–Oct, closed Wed Nov–mid-Mar; aW)

Open since 1922, La Mère Germaine is the classic village auberge (inn), with a fine restaurant, good for a date, featuring vineyard views. Solicitous service includes local wines by the glass, paired well with classic cooking, such as foie gras and duck breast. Some of the simple, elegant rooms (doubles including breakfast €95) with modern bathrooms also have views.

7Shopping

Chocolaterie Bernard CastelainFOOD

(%04 90 83 54 71; www.vin-chocolat-castelain.com; 1745 rte de Sorgues; h9am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Sat)

The specialities at this artisan chocolatier include picholines (dark-chocolate-covered roasted almonds that look like Provençal olives) and Palets des Papes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape liqueur-infused truffles).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 90 83 71 08; www.pays-provence.fr; place du Portail; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed lunch & Wed Oct-May)

8Getting There & Away

If you are driving from Avignon (18km, 30 minutes) take D907 north to D17. From Orange (10km, 15 minutes) take D68 south.

ATransVaucluse (www.vaucluse.fr) operates a limited bus service to/from Orange (€1.50, 30 minutes, two or three services Monday to Saturday) and Avignon (€2, one hour, one or two services Monday to Saturday), but same-day round trips are impossible. Buses stop at the intersection of av Louis Pasteur and rue de la Nouvelle Poste.

Orange

Pop 29,645

Considering the exceptional beauty of its Roman theatre and monumental archway – both Unesco World Heritage Sites – ultraconservative Orange is surprisingly untouristy, and eerily quiet in winter. Accommodation is good value for the region, but it's nearly impossible to find dinner Sunday or Monday nights.

History

The House of Orange, the princely dynasty that had ruled Orange since the 12th century, made its mark on the history of the Netherlands through a 16th-century marriage with the German House of Nassau, and then English history through William of Orange. Orange was ceded to France in 1713 by the Treaty of Utrecht. To this day, many members of the royal house of the Netherlands are known as the princes and princesses of Orange-Nassau.

Orange

1Top Sights

1Théâtre AntiqueC3

1Sights

2Musée d'Art et d'HistoireB2

4Sleeping

3Hôtel Arène KülmB2

4Hôtel Le GlacierA2

5Hôtel l'Herbier d'OrangeB2

6Hôtel Saint JeanC3

5Eating

7À la MaisonC2

8Au Petit PatioA3

9La Grotte d'AugusteB3

10Le ParvisC3

11Les ArtistesB2

1Sights

oThéâtre AntiqueROMAN SITES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theatre-antique.com; rue Madeleine Roch; adult/child €9.50/7.50; h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & Sep, 9.30am-5.30pm Mar & Oct, 9.30am-4.30pm rest of year; W)

Orange's Roman theatre is among France's most impressive Roman sites. Its size and age are awe-inspiring: designed for 10,000 spectators, it's believed to have been built during Augustus Caesar's rule (27 BC to AD 14). The 103m-wide, 37m-high stage wall is one of three in the world still standing in entirety (others are in Syria and Turkey) – minus a few mosaics, plus a new roof. Admission includes audioguide (and excellent free smartphone app) and access to Musée d’Art et d'Histoire.

Come for epic theatrical spectaculars, including the fabulous Chorégies d'Orange (www.choregies.asso.fr), an international opera festival in July and August – balmy nights in this millennia-old venue are magical.

Musée d’Art et d'HistoireMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theatre-antique.com; rue Madeleine Roch; adult/child €5.50/4.50; h9.15am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & Sep, shorter hours rest of year)

This small museum – there's free admission with a Théâtre Antique ticket – displays various unassuming treasures, including portions of the Roman survey registers (precursors to the tax department) and friezes that once formed part of the Roman theatre's scenery.

oColline St-EutropeGARDENS

( GOOGLE MAP )

For bird's-eye views of the theatre – and phenomenal vistas of Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail – follow montée Philbert de Chalons or montée Lambert up Colline St-Eutrope (St Eutrope Hill; elevation 97m), once the Romans' lookout point. En route, pass ruins of a 12th-century château, once the residence of the princes of Orange.

Arc de TriompheROMAN SITES

( GOOGLE MAP )

Orange’s 1st-century-AD monumental arch, the Arc de Triomphe – 19m high and wide, and 8m thick – stands on the Via Agrippa. Restored in 2009, its brilliant reliefs commemorate 49 BC Roman victories with carvings of chained, naked Gauls.

ROMAN PASS

Roman PassDISCOUNT CARD

(adult/child €18/13.50)

The Roman Pass is a joint ticket that allows access to Orange's Roman theatre and museum, plus the amphitheatre in Nîmes. It's valid for seven days, and you can buy it at any of the venues.

4Sleeping

Hôtel Saint JeanHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 51 15 16; www.hotelsaint-jean.com; 1 cours Pourtoules; s/d/tr/q €70/85/100/120; aW)

Simple, spiffy hotel, near the theatre, with comfortable proportions and colourful Provençal fabrics. Free bike storage, double-pane windows and flat-screen TVs add value. Parking €6.

Hôtel l’Herbier d’OrangeHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 34 09 23; www.lherbierdorange.com; 8 place aux Herbes; s/d/q from €59/64/88; aiWc)

Friendly, enthusiastic owners keep this small, basic hotel looking spick and span, with double-pane windows and gleaming bathrooms. Find it sitting prettily on a small square shaded by tall plane trees. Parking €4.50.

Camping ManonCAMPGROUND€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 32 81 94 96; www.camping-manon.com; 1321 rue Alexis Carrel, Quartier Le Jonquier; sites for cyclist/car €20/25.50; hApr-Sep; iWsc)

This good camping ground has been recently overhauled and has pool, hot tub, tennis, laundry and a minimart.

Hôtel Arène KülmHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 11 40 40; www.hotel-arene.fr; place de Langes; d/ste from €125/205; aiWsc)

It might be part of the generic Best Western chain, but the Arène is beautifully positioned in the old town and retains some individuality. Kids love the two heated pools (one indoors, one out); parents appreciate the family-size rooms.

Hôtel Le GlacierHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 34 02 01; www.le-glacier.com; 46 cours Aristide Briand; d €58-195; aiW)

All 28 rooms are individually decorated and impeccably maintained by the charming owners, who pay attention to details. There's easy parking in front of the hotel, and bike rental. Breakfast €10.

5Eating

It’s worth wandering away from the line-up of cafe terraces opposite the Théâtre Antique on place des Frères Mounet to delve into the pedestrian squares of Orange’s softly hued old town. Market stalls spill across streets in the town centre every Thursday.

À la MaisonBISTRO€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 60 98 83; 4 place des Cordeliers; 2-/3-course menu lunch €12.50/15, dinner €25/32; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat)

There's no lovelier spot on a warm night than the leafy courtyard, wrapped around an old stone fountain and a trio of plane trees, at this simple bistro across from the walls of the Théâtre Antique. Its name, 'At Home', is a perfect reflection of the reception you'll get.

Les ArtistesBISTRO, CAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place de la République; 1-/2-/3-course menu €11/13.50/15.50; h8-2am)

A hybrid drinking/dining address with a chic contemporary interior and a vast pavement terrace on a pedestrian old-town square, The Artists buzzes from dawn to dark. Happy hour (5pm to 8pm) is great value, as are its meal-sized salads and other brasserie fare.

Le ParvisPROVENçAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 34 82 00; www.restaurant-le-parvis-orange.com; 55 cours Pourtoules; 2-/3-course menu lunch €23/29, dinner €36/46; hnoon-1.45pm & 7.30-9.15pm Tue-Sat)

Nobody speaks above a whisper at Orange’s top table, where chef Jean-Michel Bérengier has cooked up superb Provençal food for the past 25 years.

La Grotte d'AugusteTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 60 22 54; www.restaurant-orange.fr; rue Madeleine Roch, Théâtre Antique; lunch/dinner menu from €16/21; hnoon-2pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sat)

Location is key at Auguste's Grotto, tucked beneath Orange's Roman theatre. Summer dining overlooks the ruins of a 2nd-century Hemicycle temple. Cuisine is traditional French, with lots of meat cuts and gourmet treats like foie gras and black truffles.

Au Petit PatioTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 29 69 27; 58 cours Aristide Briand; lunch/dinner menus from €18/26; hnoon-1.30pm Mon-Sat, 7-9.15pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat)

Au Petit Patio is a popular spot for a lingering lunch (menus include wine and coffee) or an indulgent dinner (foie gras is homemade) with excellent service and a charming outdoor terrace.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 34 70 88; www.otorange.fr; place des Frères Mounet; h9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 2-6.30pm Sun, closed Sun Oct-Mar)

Brochures and hotel bookings.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

Buses operated by TransVaucluse (www.vaucluse.fr) serve Avignon (€2, 45 minutes) and Vaison-la-Romaine (€2, 45 minutes) from the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 34 15 59; 201 cours Pourtoules).

Train

Orange’s train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; av Frédéric Mistral) is 1.5km east of the town centre.

AAvignon €6.50, 22 minutes

ALyon €35, 2¼ hours

AMarseille €25, 1¾ hours

AMarseille airport (Vitrolles station) €22, 1½ hours

Bicycle

Sport AventureBICYCLE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 34 75 08; 1 place de la République; half-day/day/week €12/18/69)

Central bike shop; delivers within 20km radius.

Vaison-la-Romaine

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Tucked between seven hills, in a dramatic setting, Vaison-la-Romaine has long been a traditional exchange centre, and it still has a thriving Tuesday market. The village's rich Roman legacy is obvious – 20th-century buildings rise alongside France's largest archaeological site. A Roman bridge crosses the River Ouvèze, dividing the contemporary town's pedestrianised centre and the spectacular walled, cobbled-street hilltop Cité Médiévale – one of Provence's most magical ancient villages – where the counts of Toulouse built their 12th-century castle. Vaison is a good base for jaunts into the Dentelles or Mont Ventoux, but tourists throng here in summer: reserve ahead.

1Sights & Activities

oGallo-Roman RuinsROMAN SITES

(%04 90 36 50 48; www.provenceromaine.com; adult/child incl all ancient sites, museum & cathedral €8/4; h9.30am-6.30pm Jun-Sep, 9.30am-6pm Apr & May, 10am-noon & 2-5.30pm Oct-Mar)

The ruined remains of Vasio Vocontiorum, the Roman city that flourished here between the 6th and 2nd centuries BC, fill two central Vaison sites. Two neighbourhoods of this once opulent city, Puymin and La Villasse, lie on either side of the tourist office and av du Général de Gaulle. Admission includes entry to the 12th-century Romanesque cloister at Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Nazareth (cloister only €1.50; h10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mar-Dec), a five-minute walk west of La Villasse and a soothing refuge from the summer heat.

In Puymin, see houses of the nobility, mosaics, workers' quarters, a temple, and the still-functioning, 6000-seat Théâtre Antique (c AD 20). To make sense of the remains (and collect your audioguide, €3), head for the Musée Archéologique Gallo-Roman, which revives Vaison’s Roman past with incredible swag – superb mosaics, carved masks and statues that include a 3rd-century silver bust and marble renderings of Hadrian and wife Sabina.

The Romans shopped at the colonnaded boutiques and bathed at La Villasse, where you'll find Maison au Dauphin, which has splendid marble-lined fish ponds.

oCité MédiévaleHISTORIC SITE

Cross the Pont Romain (Roman bridge) in the footsteps of frightened medieval peasants, who clambered to the walled city during valley conflicts. Steep cobblestone alleyways wend beneath stone ramparts and a 14th-century bell tower, past romantic fountains and mansions with incredibly carved doorways. Continue uphill to the 12th-century château and be rewarded with eagle's-eye vistas.

Cycling RoutesCYCLING

(www.escapado.fr)

Vaison's position is ideal for village-hopping. The tourist office stocks excellent brochures detailing multiple cycling circuits, rated by difficulty, from 26km to 91km.

zFestivals & Events

Festival de Vaison-la-RomaineDANCE

(www.vaison-danses.com; hJul)

Three-week-long festival held at the Roman Théâtre Antique. Book by April.

ChoraliesMUSIC

(www.choralies.fr; hAug)

Europe's largest choral festival is held every three years. Upcoming festivals will be held in 2016 and 2019.

Festival des Chœurs LauréatsMUSIC

(www.festivaldeschoeurslaureats.com; hlate Jul)

The best choirs in Europe.

4Sleeping

oHôtel BurrhusHOTEL€

(%04 90 36 00 11; www.burrhus.com; 1 place de Montfort; d €64-97, apt €140; aW)

On Vaison’s vibrant central square, this blue-shuttered hotel is quaint and old from the outside and brilliantly contemporary inside, with original artworks and sculptures strung in its enchanting maze of vintage corridors and staircases. Don't miss the giant Roman-inspired terracotta pot, 1.8m tall, suspended between rooftops above the sofa-clad interior patio. No lift. Breakfast €9.

L'École BuissonièreB&B€

(%04 90 28 95 19; www.buissonniere-provence.com; D75, Buisson; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast from €52/65/82/99; W)

Five minutes north of Vaison, in the countryside between Buisson and Villedieu, hosts Monique and John have transformed their stone farmhouse into a tastefully decorated three-bedroom B&B, big on comfort. Breakfast features homemade jam, and there's an outdoor summer kitchen.

Camping du Théâtre RomainCAMPGROUND€

(%04 90 28 78 66; www.camping-theatre.com; chemin de Brusquet; sites per 2 people with tent & car €25.40; hmid-Mar–mid-Nov; Ws)

Opposite the Théâtre Antique. Very sunny, and there's a pool.

L’ÉvêchéB&B€€

(%04 90 36 13 46; http://eveche.free.fr; rue de l’Évêché; s/d/tr from €85/95/120)

With groaning bookshelves, vaulted ceilings, higgledy-piggledy staircase, intimate salons and exquisite art, this five-room chambre d’hôte, in the medieval city, is fabulously atmospheric. Knowledgeable owners Jean-Loup and Aude also lend bikes.

Hostellerie Le BeffroiHISTORIC HOTEL€€

(%04 90 36 04 71; www.le-beffroi.com; rue de l’Évêché; d €100-160, tr €190; hApr-Jan; W)

Within the medieval city’s walls, this hostellerie (inn), dating from 1554, fills two buildings (the ‘newer’ one was built in 1690). A fairy-tale hideaway, its rough-hewn stone-and-wood-beamed rooms are small but romantic, and its restaurant opens onto a rose-and-herb garden with swings for the kids.

5Eating

oBistro du'OBISTRO€€

(%04 90 41 72 90; www.bistroduo.fr; rue du Château; lunch/dinner menus from €19/31; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

No address seduces more than this thoroughly modern gastro-bistro squirrelled away in a 13th-century vaulted cellar in the medieval city. Dynamic couple Gaëlle (front of house) and Philippe (chef) have been the creative duo behind the address since summer 2013, and local seasonal produce is their muse.

Fussy eaters, note that the choice of dishes is short – but superb: a perfect reflection of what's at the market that day.

Le BateleurPROVENçAL€€

(%04 90 36 28 04; www.le-bateleur.com; 1 place Théodore Aubanel; lunch/dinner menus from €24/32; hnoon-2pm Tue-Fri & Sat, 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sat)

The best seats at this simple Provençal dining room overlook the river, but you'll need no distractions from the artfully presented quality regional cooking.

oLe Moulin à HuileGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 90 36 20 67; www.moulin-huile.com; quai Maréchal Foch, rte de Malaucène; lunch/dinner menus from €39/59; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat, noon-2pm Sun mid-Apr–Nov)

Michelin-starred chef Robert Bardot showcases gastronomic prowess in a former olive-oil mill with baby-blue wooden shutters by the river. Lunch on a simple truffle omelette (€55). In summer dine outside in the peachy garden, steps from the river (go for the upper terrace rather than the lower one with plastic chairs).

You can also make a night of it in one of three handsome guest rooms (€140 to €160, open year-round).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 90 36 02 11; www.vaison-ventoux-tourisme.com; place du Chanoine Sautel; h9.30am-noon & 2-5.45pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 9.30am-noon Sun mid-Mar–mid-Oct)

Helps book rooms.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

TransVaucluse/Autocars Lieutaud (www.cars-lieutaud.fr) buses serve Orange (€2, 45 minutes) and Avignon (€4, via Orange, two hours). Cars Comtadins (%04 90 67 20 25; www.sudest-mobilites.fr) buses serve Carpentras (€2, 45 minutes) and Malaucène (€1, 30 minutes). For schedules, see www.vaucluse.fr. The bus stop is on av des Choralies, 400m east of the tourist office.

BLACK DIAMONDS

Provence’s cloak-and-dagger truffle trade is operated from the back of cars, with payment exclusively in cash. Little-known Richerenches, 23km northwest of Vaison-la-Romaine, a deceptively wealthy village with a medieval Templar fortress, hosts France’s largest wholesale truffle market. It's lovely to visit year round, but especially so on Saturday mornings during truffle season (mid-November to mid-March), when the main street fills with furtive rabassaïres (truffle hunters), selling to courtiers (brokers) representing dealers in Paris, Germany, Italy and beyond. So covert are the transactions you’ll likely never see a truffle change hands at this wholesale market. Head to av de la Rabasse for the retail stalls.

Black truffles (Tuber melanosporum) cost up to €1000 per kilogram wholesale, up to €4000 retail. Although trufficulteurs (truffle growers) try tricks like injecting spores into oak roots, humankind has so far been unable to increase crops of this quasi-mystical fungus. Only nature can dictate if it will be a good or bad year – weather is the major determinant of yield.

Richerenches villagers celebrate an annual Truffle Mass in the village church, when parishioners place truffles instead of cash into the collection plate. Then they're auctioned to support the church. The Mass falls on the Sunday nearest 17 January, feast day of St Antoine, patron saint of truffle harvesters. Contact Richerenches’ tourist office (%04 90 28 05 34; www.richerenches.fr; place Hugues de Bourbouton; h10am-1.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) for details.

If you want to unearth truffles yourself, Dominique and Eric Jaumard (%04 90 66 82 21; www.truffes-ventoux.com; La Quinsonne, 634 chemin du Traversier, Monteux; hOct–mid-Mar) arrange seasonal hunts and year-round walks on their truffle-rich land, 7km southwest of Carpentras, in Monteux. Or buy truffles fresh, in season, at weekly regional markets, including Vaison-la-Romaine (Tuesday) and Carpentras (Friday).

Dentelles de Montmirail

The Dentelles' 8km-long limestone ridge rises abruptly from peaceful vineyard-covered plains about 20km north of Carpentras. The rocky spires take their name from the dentelles (lace) they resemble. Forty kilometres of footpaths wind through the Mediterranean scrub – look for buzzards, eagles and fluorescent-green lizards. Climbers favour the southern face. Around the ridge, find wonderful, tiny villages famous for wine.

8Getting There & Away

ATransVaucluse (www.vaucluse.fr) line 4 connects Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine, via Séguret and Sablet. Line 11 connects Carpentras and Vaison, via Le Barroux. LaCoVe (%04 84 99 50 10, 08 00 88 15 23; www.transcove.com; tickets €2) buses operate Monday to Saturday on the Carpentras–Beaumes-de-Venise–Gigondas route, but you must phone the day before for pick-up.

Gigondas

Pop 548 / Elev 282m

Wine cellars and cafes surround the sun-dappled central square of Gigondas, famous for prestigious red wine. Wine-tasting here provides an excellent counterpoint to Châteauneuf-du-Pape: both use the same grapes, but the soil is different. In town, Caveau de Gigondas (%04 90 65 82 29; www.caveaudugigondas.com; place Gabrielle Andéol; h10am-noon & 2-6.30pm) represents 100 small producers and offers free tastings – most bottles cost just €12 to €17. The tourist office (%04 90 65 85 46; www.gigondas-dm.fr; rue du Portail, Gigondas; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun Jul & Aug, shorter hrs rest of yr) has a complete list of wineries.

Above the central square, along the Cheminement de Sculptures, enigmatic outdoor sculptures line narrow pathways, leading ever upward to castle ruins, campanile, church and cemetery with stunning vistas.

Séguret & Around

Pop 884 / Elev 250m

Medieval Séguret clings to a hillside above undulating vineyards. Narrow, cobbled streets, lined with flowering vines, wend past a 15th-century fountain, a 12th-century church, and uphill to castle ruins (park below the village and walk). Séguret makes a good base for cyclists and hikers, and lovers of quiet countryside.

4Sleeping & Eating

La Bastide BleueINN€

(%04 90 46 83 43; www.bastidebleue.com; rte de Sablet; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast €60/79/105/131; Wsc)

Good for families, with several quad rooms, this cozy 18th-century inn is simply decorated in classic Provençal style; some rooms have exposed wooden beams. Outside there's a vineyard-view pool. The rustic restaurant (menus €22 to €26) serves good regional cooking (reserve).

Domaine de CabasseINN€€

(%04 90 46 91 12; www.cabasse.fr; rte de Sablet; d €140-180; hApr-Oct; aWsc)

A wine-producing estate 800m south of Séguret, Domaine de Cabasse has 12 sunlit rooms, a pretty terrace restaurant, pool, tennis, and wines galore from its barrel-lined cellar. Meals include veggies from the garden: consider half-board (€47 per person, in addition to lodging costs).

Les GenêtsTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 90 46 84 33; D977, Sablet; menus lunch/dinner from €15/28; hnoon-2pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-9pm Tue-Sat)

Weekday classic-French lunch menus at this roadhouse restaurant 3km south of Séguret are great value – €14.50 with wine – and everything is fresh. Book a table on the vineyard-view terrace.

Suzette

Pop 127 / Elev 425m

Tiny Suzette sits high in the hills between Malaucène and Beaumes-de-Venise, with incredible views that provide perspective on the landscape and make the winding drive worthwhile. Get your bearings at the village-centre table d'orientation (orientation plaque).

4Sleeping & Eating

oFerme le DégoutaudB&B€

(%04 90 62 99 29; www.degoutaud.fr; rte de Malaucène; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast €65/75/85/95; cottages per week from €560; Ws)S

This 16th-century working farm, 2.5km northeast of Suzette, has simple, spotless rooms of stone and wood, and self-catering cottages surrounded by spectacular countryside. The farm produces olive oil, honey, jam and organic apricot and cherry juice – sample them at breakfast. Outside there's a summer kitchen and an infinity pool with knockout views. Tops for nature lovers.

Les CoquelicotsPROVENçAL€

(%04 90 65 06 94; www.restaurant-les-coquelicots.com; mains €14-20; hnoon-2pm & 7-8.30pm Thu-Tue Jun-Aug, reduced hours rest of year)

High on a hill, surrounded by vineyards, Les Coquelicots makes a perfect lunchtime destination when day-tripping the Dentelles, and showcases the flavours of Provence with dishes like lamb with anchovy butter and salt-cod aïoli. Book the terrace for incredible views.

Le Barroux

Pop 710 / Elevation 325m

Charming wee Le Barroux clings to a hillside beneath medieval Château du Barroux and makes for a good sightseeing stop and lunch break.

1Sights

Château du BarrouxCHâTEAU

(%04 90 62 35 21; www.chateau-du-barroux.com; adult/child €5/free; h10am-7pm Jul-Sep, 2-6pm Oct, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun Apr & May, 2.30-7pm Jun)

Built in the 12th century to protect Le Barroux from Saracen invaders, Château du Barroux is one of Provence's few castles. Its fortunes rose and fell, but its last indignity was in WWII, when retreating Germans set it ablaze – it burned for 10 days. Only ghosts remain, but it's great fun to explore, especially for kids unaccustomed to such architectural drama.

Abbaye Ste-MadeleineCHURCH

(%04 90 62 56 31; www.barroux.org)

Two kilometres north of Le Barroux along thread-narrow lanes, this abbey hears Gregorian chants sung by Benedictine monks at 9.30am daily (10am Sunday and holidays). The Romanesque-style monastery, built in the 1980s, is surrounded by lavender. Its shop carries delicious monk-made almond cake. Hats, miniskirts, bare shoulders and mobile phones are forbidden.

4Sleeping & Eating

Les GéraniumsTRADITIONAL FRENCH€€

(%04 90 62 41 08; www.hotel-lesgeraniums.com; place de la Croix; lunch/dinner menus from €18/30; h12.15-2pm & 7.15-9pm Jun-Oct)

For a lazy lunch (and a parking spot), book a terrace table at Les Géraniums, an old-fashioned country auberge with stunning valley views. Upstairs are simply furnished, good-value rooms (doubles €90 to €100).

Beaumes-de-Venise

Pop 2425 / Elev 126m

Snugly sheltered from mistral winds, Beaumes-de-Venise is famous for its or blanc (white gold) – sweet muscat wines, best drunk young and cold (perfect with Cavaillon melons). Attend tastings at local co-operative Balma Vénitia (%04 90 12 41 00; www.beaumes-de-venise.com; 228 rte de Carpentras; h9am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Apr-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Mar). The excellent tourist office (%04 90 62 94 39; www.ot-beaumesdevenise.fr; 122 place du Marché; h9.15am-12.15pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, also 10am-1pm Sun mid-Jul–mid-Aug) has English-language brochures of wineries.

Taste Beaumes’ olive oil at Moulin à Huile de la Balméenne (%04 90 62 93 77; www.labalmeenne.fr; 82 av Jules Ferry; h9am-noon & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat year-round, also 2-6.30pm Sun Easter-Aug), open since 1867. For gifts, consider organic soap and bath products from Savonnerie des Dentelles (%04 90 37 61 80; www.savonnerie-des-dentelles.com; rte de Sarrians, 42 ZA La Barcillonne; h9am-noon & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri), 1.6km southwest of Beaumes-de-Venise.

Sprawling 19th-century gardens, vineyards and olive groves surround Château Juvenal manor (%04 90 62 31 76; www.chateau-juvenal-provence.com; 120 chemin du Long-Serre, St-Hippolyte-le-Graveyron; d from €150; aWs), with four upmarket rooms, billiards, spa, hot tub and fabulous pool. On Tuesday and Friday evenings there's an excellent table d'hôte (set menu at a fixed price; €45 with wine; 48-hour advance reservations required). It's 5km west of Beaumes-de-Venise.

Mont Ventoux

Visible for miles around, Mont Ventoux (1912m), nicknamed le géant de Provence (Provence’s giant), stands like a sentinel over northern Provence. From its summit, accessible by road between May and October (the white glimmering stuff you see in summer is lauzes, broken white stones, not snow), vistas extend to the Alps and, on a clear day, the Camargue.

Because of the mountain’s dimensions, every European climate type is present on its slopes, from Mediterranean on its lower southern reaches to Arctic on its exposed northern ridge. As you ascend the relentless gradients (which regularly feature in the Tour de France), temperatures can plummet by 20°C, and there’s twice as much precipitation as on the plains below. The relentless mistral wind blows 130 days a year, sometimes at a speed of 250km/h. Bring warm clothes and rain gear, even in summer. You can ascend by road year-round, but you cannot traverse the summit from 15 November to 15 April.

This climatic patchwork is reflected in the mountain’s diverse fauna and flora, now actively protected by Unesco Biosphere Reserve status. Some species live nowhere else, including the snake eagle and several other birds as well as butterflies.

Three principal gateways – Bédoin, Malaucène and Sault – provide services in summer, but they're far apart. In addition to their tourist offices, find information at Destination Ventoux (www.destination-ventoux.com) and Provence Cycling (www.provence-cycling.com).

2Activities

Walking

The GR4 crosses the Dentelles de Montmirail before scaling Mont Ventoux's northern face, where it meets the GR9. Both traverse the ridge. The GR4 branches eastwards to Gorges du Verdon; the GR9 crosses the Vaucluse Mountains to the Luberon. The essential map for the area is 3140ET Mont Ventoux, by IGN (www.ign.fr). Bédoin's tourist office stocks maps and brochures detailing walks for all levels.

In July and August tourist offices in Bédoin and Malaucène facilitate night time expeditions up the mountain to see sunrise (participants must be over 15 years old).

Cycling

Tourist offices distribute Les Itinéraires Ventoux, a free map detailing 11 itineraries – graded easy to difficult – and highlighting artisanal farms en route. For more cycling trails, see www.lemontventoux.net. Most cycle-hire outfits also offer electric bikes.

Station Ventoux Sud Bike ParkCYCLING

(%04 90 61 84 55; www.facebook.com/VentouxBikePark; Chalet Reynard; half-/full day €10/14; h10am-5pm Sat & Sun, weekday hours variable)

Near the Mont Ventoux summit, at Chalet Reynard, mountain bikers ascend via rope tow (minimum age 10 years), then descend ramps and jumps down three trails (5km in total). In winter it's possible to mountain bike on snow. Bring bike, helmet and gloves or rent all gear at Chalet Reynard. Call to check opening times, which are highly weather dependent.

Bédoin LocationCYCLING

(%04 90 65 94 53; www.bedoin-location.fr; 20 rte de Malaucène, Bédoin; per half-day/day from €15/20; h9am-7pm Mar-Nov)

Opposite the tourist office in Bédoin, this sports shop rents and repairs mountain and road bikes and delivers to the summit of Mont Ventoux.

La Route du VentouxCYCLING

(%04 90 67 07 40; www.larouteduventoux.com; rte du Ventoux, Bédoin; road bikes/mountain bikes/tandems per day from €35/25/50; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat May-Aug, 9am-6pm Mar, Apr & Oct, plus 8am-12.30pm Sun Jul)

Rents bicycles of many types in Bédoin.

Ventoux BikesCYCLING

(%04 90 62 58 19; www.ventoux-bikes.fr; 1 av de Verdun, Malaucène; road bikes per day from €40; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat Apr-Nov)

Malaucène's hub for road-bike rental and sale, offering multiple calibres, plus gear.

Albion CyclesCYCLING

(%04 90 64 09 32; www.albioncycles.com; rte de St-Trinit, Sault; mountain-/road-bike rental per day €26/36; h9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm Tue-Sat Mar-Nov)

Sault's bicycle-rental and -sale outlet, including electric-assistance bikes.

Skiing

Access Chalet Reynard (www.chalet-reynard.fr) from Bédoin or Sault, not Malaucène, to sled or ski Mont Ventoux's south summit. Traverse the isolated back side, via the D974 from Malaucène, to reach tiny north-facing ski area Mont Serein. It's fun for a few turns, but nothing serious. Snow melts by April.

WORTH A TRIP

RIVER GORGES DU TOULOURENC

On hot days you can't beat this easy, family-friendly walk beneath Mont Ventoux's wild, northern face. Wear shorts and water shoes, and hike upstream, splashing in calf-deep water, and explore a spectacular, ever-narrowing limestone canyon. By bike, take the tiny road from Malaucène to the hamlet of Veaux (road signs say 'hameau de Veaux', maps say 'Veaux'); by car, the road via Entrechaux is less winding. Park at the blue bridge over the water. Two hours upstream, there's a Roman bridge – a good turnaround point. Carry food and water.

Bédoin

Pop 3279 / Elev 295m

On Mont Ventoux's southwestern flanks, peppy Bédoin is the most upbeat of the gateways, chock-a-block with cafes and shops. Its geographic position diminishes the mistral, which contributes to its popularity with cyclists. In July and August the tourist office (%04 90 65 63 95; www.bedoin.org; Espace Marie-Louis Gravier, 1 rte de Malaucène; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun mid-Jun–Aug, reduced hours rest of year), an excellent information source on all regional activities, guides walks into the forest. Market day is Monday.

Malaucène

Pop 2746 / Elev 377m

Despite deceptively lovely plane-tree-lined streets, Malaucène can feel a bit drab, except in summer, when hikers and bikers arrive. Its blessing is geographical: on the saddle between Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles, it's well positioned for mountain sorties. Pope Clement V had a second home here in the 14th century: his legacy remains in the Gothic-Romanesque Église St-Michel & St-Pierre, constructed in 1309 on the site of an ancient temple. The tourist office (%04 90 65 22 59; http://villagemalaucene.free.fr; place de la Mairie; h9.15am-12.15pm & 2.30-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) stocks information on Mont Ventoux but (surprisingly) not the Dentelles, and keeps erratic hours.

LAVENDER VERSUS LAVANDIN

When shopping for lavender, it's worth knowing that the most sought-after product is fine lavender (in French, lavande fine; in Latin, Lavandula angustifolia, L. vera, L. officinalis), not spike lavender (L. latifolia) or the hybrid lavandin (L. hybrida). The latter are high in camphor and are used in detergents and paint solvents, not perfume.

Sault

Pop 1285 / Elev 800m

At the eastern end of the Mont Ventoux massif, drowsily charming Sault has incredible summertime vistas over lavender fields. Visit André Boyer (%04 90 64 00 23; www.nougat-boyer.fr; place de l’Europe) for honey-and-almond nougat, family made since 1887. Sault’s tourist office (%04 90 64 01 21; www.saultenprovence.com; av de la Promenade; h9.30am-12.30pm & 1.30-6.30pm Mon-Sat Jun-Aug, reduced hours rest of year), a good resource for Mont Ventoux and Gorges de la Nesque, has lists of artisanal lavender producers such as GAEC Champelle (%04 90 64 01 50; www.gaec-champelle.fr; rte de Ventoux), a roadside farmstand northwest of town whose products include a great gift for cooks: herbes de Provence–infused fleur de sel (gourmet salt).

WORTH A TRIP

GORGES DE LA NESQUE

Abutting the Forêt de Venasque (and connected via walking trail GR91), the sheer-walled, 20km-long Gorges de la Nesque is protected as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. Other than driving or hiking, a novel means of exploring this spectacular limestone canyon (or nearby Mont Ventoux) is alongside a donkey from Les Ânes des Abeilles (%04 90 64 01 52; http://abeilles.ane-et-rando.com; rte de la Gabelle, Col des Abeilles; day/weekend from €50/95). Beasts carry up to 40kg (ie small children or bags).

Carpentras & Around

Pop 29,562

Try to visit Carpentras on a Friday morning, when the streets spill over with more than 350 stalls laden with bread, honey, cheese, olives, fruit and a rainbow of berlingots, Carpentras’ striped, pillow-shaped hard-boiled sweets. During winter the pungent truffle market murmurs with hushed-tone transactions. The truffle season is kicked off by Carpentras’ biggest fair, held during the Fête de St-Siffrein on 27 November, when more than 1000 stalls spread across town.

Markets aside, this slightly rundown agricultural town has but a handful of historic sights. A Greek trading centre and later a Gallo-Roman city, it became papal territory in 1229, and was also shaped by a strong Jewish presence, as Jews who had been expelled from French crown territory took refuge here.

Carpentras

1Top Sights

1Arc RomainB3

2Cathédrale St-SiffreinB3

3Synagogue de CarpentrasC2

4Sleeping

4Hôtel du FiacreC2

5Hotel le ComtadinB4

6Le MalagaC2

5Eating

7Chez SergeC3

8La GalushaB2

9La Maison JouvaudB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

10Angel'Art GalerieB2

1Sights

oSynagogue de CarpentrasSYNAGOGUE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 63 39 97; place Juiverie; h10am-noon & 3-4.30pm Mon-Thu, 10-11.30am & 3-3.30pm Fri)

Carpentras’ remarkable synagogue dates to 1367 and is the oldest still in use in France. Although Jews were initially welcomed into papal territory, by the 17th century they had to live in ghettos in Avignon, Carpentras, Cavaillon and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: the synagogue is deliberately inconspicuous. The wood-panelled prayer hall was rebuilt in 18th-century Baroque style; downstairs are bread-baking ovens, used until 1904. For access, ring the doorbell on the half-hour.

Alternatively, join the excellent 1½-hour guided tour (adult/child €5/3.50) organised by the tourist office every Tuesday at 10.30am from April to September.

oCathédrale St-SiffreinCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; place St-Siffrein; h8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat)

Carpentras’ cathedral was built between 1405 and 1519 in meridional Gothic style but is crowned by a distinctive contemporary bell tower. Its Trésor d’Art Sacré (Treasury of Religious Art) holds precious 14th- to 19th-century religious relics that you can only see during the Fête de St-Siffrein and on guided walks with the tourist office.

oArc RomainROMAN SITES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Hidden behind Cathédrale St-Siffrein, the Arc Romain was built under Augustus in the 1st century AD and is decorated with worn carvings of enslaved Gauls.

4Sleeping

Le MalagaHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 60 57 96, mobile/cell 06 16 59 85 59; www.hotel-malaga-carpentras.fr; 37 place Maurice-Charretier; s/d/q €40/45/67; Wc)

Given the price and city-centre location, the eight no-frills rooms are good value, if a bit threadbare, noisy and lacking in air-con. Downstairs there's a brasserie.

Hôtel du FiacreHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 63 03 15; www.hotel-du-fiacre.com; 153 rue Vigne; s €70-150, d €80-150; hreception 8am-9pm; W)

The faded grandeur of this 18th-century mansion with ochre facade is charming – from marble staircase to canopied beds. Outside there's a lovely sunny courtyard. Good service and value. Breakfast €10.

Hotel le ComtadinHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 67 75 00; www.le-comtadin.com; 65 bd Albin Durand; d €80-110; aW)

Formerly a private mansion, now a fresh-looking midrange hotel under the Best Western banner, Le Comtadin's best rooms face an interior courtyard; less expensive rooms face the street. Breakfast €13.

Château de MazanHOTEL€€€

(%04 90 69 62 61; www.chateaudemazan.com; place Napoléon, Mazan; d €160-300, ste €300-440; hMar-Dec; ais)

This magnificent 18th-century mansion, 7km east of Carpentras in the village of Mazan, belonged to the Marquis de Sade. Today it houses 30 regal rooms. Its refined haute-cuisine restaurant, l’Ingénue (mains lunch/dinner from €15/25), merits a special trip.

5Eating & Drinking

oLa Maison JouvaudPATISSERIE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 40 rue de l'Évêché; boxes of sweets from €10 ; h10am-7pm Mon, 8am-7pm Tue-Fri, 9am-7pm Sat & Sun)

No address is sweeter than Jouvard, a vintage-styled cake shop, tearoom and homeware boutique festooned at every turn with delectable cakes, chocolates, sugared almonds, candied fruits and the feistiest mountain of homemade meringues imaginable waiting to seduce on the bar. The drinks menu includes chocolat à l'ancienne (hot chocolate), milk with honey, and a beautiful selection of Mariage Frères teas.

Chez SergePROVENçAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 63 21 24; www.chez-serge.com; 90 rue Cottier; lunch/dinner menus from €17/27; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Jun-Sep, noon-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Oct-May; Wc)

Perhaps the hottest address in town, this savvy little courtyard restaurant plays at 'shabby chic' with its distressed wood and granite, Panton chairs and contemporary finishings. Serge's Place is the spot to sample Provence's black truffles, honoured with their own menu and simple plats (dishes) like truffle omelette, truffle-laced pasta and truffle risotto.

La GalushaPROVENçAL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 60 75 00, mobile/cell 06 62 79 25 42; www.galusha.fr; 30 place de l'Horloge; lunch/dinner menus from €14.50/24; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm Tue-Sun)

Venetian glass ceiling lamps and whimsical Arcimboldo paintings lend a warm glow to the romantic interior of this upmarket dining room, tucked on the ground floor of a 15th-century building with enchanting flower-filled patio out the back. In the kitchen Nîmes-born chef Stéphan Laurent cooks up modern Provençal cuisine, catering to lighter lunchtime appetites with giant salads (€14.50).

Angel'Art GalerieCOCKTAIL BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %06 10 13 41 94; www.facebook.com/AngelArtGalerie; 59 rue Raspail; h6pm-1am Mon, 9am-1am Tue-Sat)

This hybrid art gallery–cocktail lounge is one of the hippest spaces in town – alongside its equally trendy neighbours, with whom it shares brightly coloured sunshade sails, strung from one side of the tiny pedestrian street to the other.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 63 00 78; www.carpentras-ventoux.com; 97 place du 25 Août 1944; h9am-1pm & 2-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-1pm Sun, shorter hours rest of year)

Excellent website, guided tours in English (adult/child €5/3.50), helpful staff and an adjoining boutique of local culinary products like berlingots, honey and AOC Ventoux wine.

8Getting There & Around

Train

Local trains connect Carpentras’ train station ( GOOGLE MAP ; av de la Gare) to Avignon Centre station (30 minutes, hourly) and Avignon TGV station (38 minutes).

Bus

The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; place Terradou) is 150m southwest of the tourist office, which has schedules, as does TransVaucluse (www.vaucluse.fr). Services are operated by Transdev Comtadins ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 67 20 25; www.sudest-mobilites.fr; 192 av Georges Clémenceau) and Voyages Arnaud ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 63 01 82; www.voyages-arnaud-carpentras.com; 8 av Victor-Hugo).

Avignon €2, 40 minutes

Cavaillon €2, 45 minutes

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue €2, 35 minutes

Orange €2, 55 minutes

Vaison-la-Romaine €2, 45 minutes, via Malaucène €2, 35 minutes

Car

Free parking is northeast of the tourist office, along av Jean Jaurès.