Hill Towns of the Luberon

Why Go?

Named after the mountain range running east–west between Cavaillon and Manosque, the Luberon is a Provençal patchwork of hilltop villages, vineyards, ancient abbeys and kilometre after kilometre of fragrant lavender fields. It's a rural, traditional region that still makes time for the good things in life – particularly fine food and even finer wine. Nearly every village hosts its own weekly market, packed with stalls selling local specialities, especially olive oil, honey and lavender.

Covering some 600 sq km, the Luberon massif itself is divided into three areas: the craggy Petit Luberon in the west, the higher Grand Luberon mountains and the smaller hills of the Luberon Oriental in the east. They're all worth exploring, but whatever you do, don't rush – part of the fun of exploring here is getting lost on the back lanes, stopping for lunch at a quiet village cafe, and taking as much time as you possibly can to soak up the scenery.

Driving Distances (km)

distance-chart-hill-towns-luberon-pro7jpg

Best Places to Eat

A Le Sanglier Paresseux

A La Closerie

A La Table de Pablo

A Auberge La Fenière

A Le Mas Tourteron

Best Places to Stay

A Maison Valvert

A La Bastide du Bois Bréant

A La Bouquière

A Le Couvent

A Les Balcons de Luberon

Hill Towns of the Luberon Highlights

1 Smell the lavender around Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque.

2 Escape the heat in the peaceful Forêt des Cèdres.

3 Shop for ingredients at the Saturday-morning market in Apt.

4 Hike through the crimson moonscapes of the Colorado Provençal.

5 Admire the view from the hilltop church in Bonnieux.

6 Explore the abandoned streets of Oppède-le-Vieux.

7 Visit ancient dwellings at the Village des Bories.

8 Follow in Peter Mayle's footsteps in Ménerbes.

Vaucluse Mountains

Some of Provence’s quintessential sights – impossibly pretty villages, beehive-shaped bories (primitive dry-limestone dwellings), lavender fields and a stunning Cistercian abbey – lie just a few kilometres apart on the rugged northern side of the Luberon.

Make reservations as far ahead as possible for lunch and dinner, lest you go hungry. Every table fills in high season.

8Getting Around

The Luberon, an hour from Avignon, is just 60km in length. Having a car makes travel much easier, as bus services are limited, but parking in some small villages can be a nightmare in summer.

The D900 bisects the valley from east to west. Secondary roads are slow and winding; watch out for roadside gullies.

Bicycle

Don't be put off by the hills – the Luberon is a fantastic destination for cyclists. Several bike routes criss-cross the countryside, including Les Ocres à Vélo, a 51km route that takes in the ochre villages of Apt, Gargas, Rustrel, Roussillon and Villars, and the Véloroute du Calavon (www.af3v.org/-Fiche-VVV-.html?voie=107), a purpose-built bike path that follows the route of a disused railway line for 28km between Beaumettes in the west (near Coustellet), via Apt, to La Paraire in the west (near St-Martin-de-Castillon). Plans are underway to extend the trail all the way from Cavaillon to the foothills of the Alps, but it'll be a while before it's completed.

For longer trips, Le Luberon à Vélo (%04 90 76 48 05; www.leluberonavelo.com; 203 rue Oscar Roulet, Robion) is a 236km itinerary that takes in pretty much the whole Luberon. Tourist offices stock detailed route leaflets and can provide info on rental, luggage transport, accommodation and so on.

Several companies offer e-bikes, which incorporate an electric motor. They're not scooters – you still have to pedal – but the motor helps on the ascents.

Luberon BikingBICYCLE RENTAL

(%04 90 90 14 62; http://www.luberon-biking.fr; Velleron; per day from €22, per week €120)

Delivers bikes straight to your door throughout the Luberon area, and also runs guided bike tours.

Luberon CyclesBICYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 86 69 19 00; 86 quai Général-Leclerc; per half-day/day from €12/16; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat)

Bike hire and general cycling supplies and services in Apt.

Sun-e-BikeBICYCLE RENTAL

(%Bonnieux 04 90 74 09 96, St-Rémy-de-Provence 04 32 62 08 39; www.location-velo-provence.com; per day €36)

Rents electric bikes. The rental offices are in Bonnieux and St-Rémy-de-Provence, but you can recharge your battery at various other locations around the Luberon valley.

Bachelas CyclesBICYCLE RENTAL

(%04 92 75 12 47; www.bachelas-cycles.com; 5 blvd de la République; per day from €19, per week from €81; h9am-12.30pm & 2-7pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat)

Bike hire (standard and e-bike) in Forcalquier and Manosque (%04 92 72 15 84; www.bachelas-cycles.com; 24 bd de la Plaine; h8.30am-12.30pm & 2-8pm Mon-Sat).

Bus

Most villages in the Luberon have a limited bus service that revolves around school term times. The main hub is Apt, which has buses to local villages, and a regular bus link to Cavaillon and Avignon. The Trans Vaucluse (www.vaucluse.fr) website has downloadable timetables.

The fare to all destinations is calculated by how far you travel; local destinations cost €1.50, further destinations a flat-rate €2.

Train

The nearest train station is on the western side of the valley in Cavaillon, which is served by regular regional trains from Avignon. From Cavaillon, several buses a day run east to Apt.

Gordes & Around

Like a giant wedding cake rising over the Rivers Sorgue and Calavon, the tiered village of Gordes juts spectacularly out of the white-rock face of the Vaucluse plateau. Gordes is high on many tourists’ must-see lists (notably celebrity Parisians): summer brings a cavalcade of buses, and car parks (€3) are choked. Arrive early or late, or expect to be crammed onto narrow footpaths, dodging tourists and buses. Come sunset, the village glows gold – an eye-popping sight.

1Sights & Activities

oAbbaye Notre-Dame de SénanqueCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 72 05 72; www.abbayedesenanque.com; adult/child €7/3; h9.45-11am Mon-Sat, tours by reservation)

Situated 4km northwest of Gordes off the D177, this supremely peaceful spot provides one of the classic postcard images of this part of Provence: a graceful Cistercian abbey surrounded by swathes of purple lavender. The best displays are usually in July and August, but you certainly won't be on your own when you visit.

Founded in 1148, the abbey is still home to a small monastic community, so it's only possible to visit the cloistered interior by guided tour. Reservations are essential, as are conservative dress and reverential silence.

It's a 1½-hour walk from Gordes on the GR6 trail. The track up to the abbey gets rough and muddy during heavy rain.

Village des BoriesARCHITECTURE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 72 03 48; adult/child €6/4; h9am-8pm, shorter hours winter)

Beehive-shaped bories bespeckle Provence, and at the Village des Bories, 4km southwest of Gordes, an entire village of them can be explored. Constructed of slivered limestone, bories were built during the Bronze Age, inhabited by shepherds until 1839, then abandoned until their restoration in the 1970s. Visit early in the morning or just before sunset for the best light. Note that the lower car park is for buses; continue to the hilltop car park to avoid hiking uphill in the blazing heat.

Moulin des BouillonsMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 72 22 11; www.moulindesbouillons.com; rte de St-Pantaléon; adult/child €5/3.50; h10am-noon & 2-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct)

Heading 3.5km south from Gordes along rte de St-Pantaléon (D148), you hit this marvellous rural museum: an olive-oil mill with a 10m-long Gallo-Roman press weighing 7 tonnes – reputedly the world's oldest. The adjoining stained-glass museum showcases beautiful translucent mosaics; a joint ticket costs adult/child €7.50/5.50.

Musée de la LavandeMUSEUM

(%04 90 76 91 23; www.museedelalavande.com; D2, Coustellet; adult/child €6.80/free; h9am-7pm May-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Oct-Apr)

To get to grips with Provence's most prestigious crop, this excellent eco-museum makes an ideal first stop. An audioguide and video (in English) explain the lavender harvest, and giant copper stills reveal extraction methods. Afterwards you can take a guided tour of the fields at 1pm and 5pm daily May to September. The on-site boutique is an excellent (if pricey) one-stop shop for top-quality lavender products.

There's also a picnic area in the lavender-festooned garden.

4Sleeping

oLe Mas de la BeaumeB&B€€

(%04 90 72 02 96; www.labeaume.com; rte de Cavaillon, Gordes; d €130-180; Ws)

In a visually stunning hilltop locale at the village's edge, this impeccable five-room maison d’hôte is like a Provençal postcard come to life, with yellow-washed stone-wall rooms decorated with bunches of lavender hanging from wood-beamed ceilings. Beds are dressed in high-thread-count linens, and breakfast is delivered to your room.

Auberge de CarcarilleHOTEL€€

(%04 90 72 02 63; www.auberge-carcarille.com; rte d'Apt; d €81-128; aWsc)

Old outside, new interior: this country hotel marries the atmosphere of a traditional bastide familiale (family house) with spotless, modern rooms. There's a delightful garden to wander, and the restaurant serves superior Provençal food; half-board deals are great value. It's 3km from Gordes at the bottom of the valley.

Mas de la RégaladeB&B€€

(%04 90 76 90 79; www.masregalade-luberon.com; D2, Quartier de la Sénancole; d €130-160; hmid-Apr–mid-Nov; Ws)

A stone farmhouse on a grassy plain surrounded by oak woodlands, 3.5km south of Gordes, Mas de la Régalade's four rooms artfully blend mod cons with playful antiques. In the garden, a vintage blue Citroën peeks between scented hedgerows of lavender and rosemary, beyond the big pool. Discounts for longer stays.

Les Balcons du LuberonB&B€€

(%06 38 20 42 13; www.lesbalconsduluberon.fr; rte de Murs; d €135-165; Ws)

Uphill from Gordes' centre on the D15, this ravishing four-room B&B makes a wonderful bolthole. It's in an 18th-century stone farmhouse, but the decor is totally 21st century – all designer furniture, funky lights and minimal clutter. There's a gorgeous pool, and owner Étienne Marty (a trained chef) offers a lavish dinner by reservation.

5Eating

La Boulangerie de Mamie JaneBOULANGERIE€

(%04 90 72 09 34; lunch menus €6.50 or €7.90; h6.30am-1pm & 2-6pm Thu-Tue)

Those short of time or money in Gordes should follow the locals downhill along rue Baptistin Picca to this pocket-sized boulangerie, in the same family for three generations. Mamie Jane cooks up outstanding bread, pastries, cakes and biscuits – including purple, lavender-perfumed navettes (canoe-shaped biscuits) – and the baguettes (€4.50) and lunch menus are unbeatable value.

oLe Mas TourteronGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 90 72 00 16; www.mastourteron.com; chemin de St-Blaise les Imberts; menu lunch €48, dinner €57; hdinner 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Sat, lunch 12.30-2pm on Sun only, Apr-Oct)

The welcome is warm at this country house, surrounded by gardens clearly created with perfect lazy lunches alfresco in mind. The stone-walled dining room has a vaguely boho-chic feeling, befitting chef Elisabeth Bourgeois-Baique's stylised cooking. Husband Philippe selects from over 200 wines to pair with her seasonal, inventive menus. Desserts are legendary. It's 3.5km south of Gordes, off the D2.

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 90 72 02 75; www.gordes-village.com; place du Château; h9am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun)

Inside Gordes' medieval chateau, which was enlarged and given its defensive Renaissance towers in 1525.

Roussillon

Red by name, red by nature, that's Roussillon – once the centre of local ochre mining, and still unmistakably marked by its crimson colour (villagers are required to paint their houses according to a prescribed palette of some 40 tints). Today it's home to artists' and ceramicists' workshops, and its charms are no secret: arrive early or late.

The village was the hideout for the playwright Samuel Beckett during WWII, who helped the local Resistance by hiding explosives at his house and occasionally going on recce missions.

Parking (€3 March to November) is 300m outside the village.

1Sights & Activities

Conservatoire des Ocres et de la CouleurMUSEUM

(L’Usine d’Ocre Mathieu; %04 90 05 66 69; www.okhra.com; rte d’Apt; guided tours adult/student €6.50/5; h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, to 6pm Sep-Jun, closed Mon & Tue Jan & Feb; c)

This art centre is a great place to see ochre in action. Occupying a disused ochre factory on the D104 east of Roussillon, it explores the mineral's properties through hands-on workshops and guided tours of the factory. The shop upstairs stocks paint pigments and other artists' supplies.

The centre also rents bikes (adult/child €28/22).

oSentier des OcresWALKING

(Ochre Trail; adult/child €2.50/free; h9.30am-5.30pm; c)

In Roussillon village, groves of chestnut and pine surround sunset-coloured ochre formations, rising on a clifftop. Two circular trails, 30 or 50 minutes, twist through mini-desert landscapes – it's like stepping into a Georgia O'Keeffe painting. Information panels highlight 26 types of flora to spot, the history of local ochre production and so on. Wear walking shoes and avoid white!

4Sleeping

Les PassifloresB&B€

(%04 90 71 43 08; www.passiflores.fr; Les Huguets; d/q incl breakfast €73/120; Ws)

Quiet and friendly, this chambre d’hôte is hidden in the hamlet of Les Huguets, 4km south of Roussillon. Spotless rooms are decorated with pretty flourishes of country-Provençal prints. The four-person suite is excellent value. Outside, the 'pool' is a small filtered pond. Table d'hôte (set menu at a fixed price; €28) by reservation, includes wine and coffee.

Clos de la GlycineHOTEL€€

(%04 90 05 60 13; www.luberon-hotel.fr; d €135-190; aW)

You're paying a hefty premium for the view at this attractive hotel in the middle of Roussillon – but, boy, what a view! Rooms overlook your choice of ochre cliffs or the Luberon valley, and feel distinctively French, with artfully distressed paintwork and rococo furniture. The restaurant is good, too, but breakfast is steep at €14.

Domaine des FinetsCOTTAGE€€

(%04 90 74 11 92; www.domainedesfinets.fr; per week Jul & Aug €700-920, rest of year €420-650; Ws)

Four cute cottages, tinted orange like the rest of Roussillon, and surrounded by grassy lawns. They're rustic style, and all have self-contained kitchens, washing machines, log-burning stoves and barbecues. We particularly liked 'Les Ocres' with its mezzanine floor.

5Eating

Comptoir des ArtsBISTRO€€

(%04 90 74 11 92; place du Pasquier; menus €18-28; hlunch noon-2pm, dinner 7.30-10pm)

Arrive early (or book ahead) to bag yourself one of the prime outside tables at this village bistro, which serves local specialities such as aïoli de cabillaud (cod with garlic mayonnaise) and daube provençale (a rich stew flavoured with Provençal herbs).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 90 05 60 25; www.roussillon-provence.com; place de la Poste; h9am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

DON'T MISS

THE COLORADO PROVENçAL

Reds and oranges, scarlets and yellows, purples and crimsons – the fiery colours burned into the earth between Roussillon and Rustrel are astonishing. They're the result of the area's rich mineral deposits, especially hydrated iron oxide, otherwise known as ochre, which has been mined in this part of the Luberon since Roman times. Traditionally used to colour earthenware and paint buildings, around the late 18th century, the extraction process was industrialised, and large mines and quarries sprang up. In 1929, at the peak of the ochre industry, some 40,000 tonnes of ochre was mined around Apt.

There are several ochre-themed sites to visit around Roussillon, but for the full technicolour experience, head for the Colorado Provençal (%04 32 52 09 75; www.colorado-provencal.com; h9am-dusk), a quarry site where ochre was mined from the 1880s until 1956. With its weird rock formations and rainbow colours, it's like a little piece of the southwest USA plonked down amongst the hills of Provence.

Colour-coded trails lead from the car park, signposted south of Rustrel village, off the D22 to Banon. Parking costs €5 (free November to March), or you can walk down from the village. The site gets blazingly hot in summer: start early, carry water and wear hiking boots and a hat – and don't be surprised if you take some ochre home with you on your clothes (the best idea is to wait till it dries and brush it off).

St-Saturnin-lès-Apt & Around

About 9km north of Apt and 10km northeast of Roussillon, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt (population 2479) is refreshingly ungentrified and just beyond the tourist radar. Shops (not boutiques), cafes and bakeries line its cobbled streets. It has marvellous views of the surrounding Vaucluse plateau – climb to the ruins atop the village for knockout views. Or find the photogenic 17th-century windmill, Le Château les Moulins, 1km north, off the D943 towards Sault.

1Sights

Moulin à Huile JullienFARM

(%04 90 75 56 24; www.moulin-huile-jullien.com; rte d’Apt, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt; h10am-noon & 3-7pm Jul & Aug, 10am-noon & 2-5.30pm or 6pm rest of year, closed Sun year round)F

On the edge of the village, this working olive-oil mill allows you to follow the process from tree to bottle. They also make delicious honey. Tastings and mill tours are free.

Mines de BruouxHISTORIC SITE

(%04 90 06 22 59; www.minesdebruoux.fr; rte de Croagnes; adult/child €8.10/6.50; h10am-7pm Jul & Aug, to 6pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct)

In Gargas, 7km east of Roussillon, this former mine has more than 40km of underground galleries where ochre was once extracted. Around 650m are open to the public, some of which is as much as 15m high. Visits are only by guided tour; you need to reserve ahead.

The caverns sometimes provide a stunning setting for concerts; check the website for schedules.

4Sleeping

Le Saint HubertHOTEL€

(%04 90 75 42 02; www.hotel-saint-hubert-luberon.com; d €56-62, tr €72)

Charm personified, this quintessential village auberge (inn) has welcomed travellers since the 18th century and is a gorgeous spot to stay. Rooms are simple but elegant, and the sweeping view of the southern Luberon from valley-facing rooms is breathtaking. Breakfast €8.

Guests reluctant to stray too far can opt for half-board (€116 for two people) – dining on the panoramic terrace is no short straw.

Au Point de LumièreB&B€€

(%04 90 04 83 14; www.upointdelumiere.com; 771 chemin de Perréal; d €100-135; Ws)

What a find this stylish B&B is. The three rooms all have their own theme – choose from soothing Alizarine, cool Zen or exotic Sienne – and all come with luxurious spoils like Italian showers and private terraces overlooking the garden. There's a lovely pool shaded by trees, and owner Jean-Claude gets breakfast goodies straight from the market every day.

Le Mas PerréalB&B€€

(%04 90 75 46 31; www.masperreal.com; Quartier la Fortune; d €130-140, self-catering studios €100-150; Ws)

Surrounded by vineyards, lavender fields and cherry orchards, on a vast 7-hectare property outside St-Saturnin-lès-Apt, this farmhouse B&B offers a choice of cosy rooms or self-catering studios, both filled with country antiques and Provençal fabrics. Outside there's a heavenly pool and big garden with mountain views. Elisabeth, a long-time French teacher, offers cooking and French lessons.

Mas de CinkAPARTMENT€€

(%06 11 99 80 88; www.lemasdecink.com; Hameau des Blanchards; per 3 nights from €200, per week €450-1650; aWs)

Apartments evocatively blend northern contemporary cool with earthy Provençal comfort in this sprawling old farmhouse and barn. All have fully equipped kitchens, and a couple are suitable for larger groups. Private terraces and trellised outdoor dining areas overlook a wild garden, lavender fields and vineyards.

5Eating

L’EstradeBISTRO€€

(%04 90 71 15 75; 6 av Victor Hugo; lunch menu €14, mains €14-28; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm, closed Nov-Mar)

Tiny and friendly, this village restaurant is a popular local's tip for solid, fuss-free Provençal cooking. Everything's cooked fresh on the day, so it's worth arriving early to make sure you have the full menu choice.

oLa Table de PabloMODERN FRENCH€€€

(%04 90 75 45 18; www.latabledepablo.com; Les Petits Cléments, Villars; lunch menus €19 & €25, dinner menus €36 & €57, mains €17-26; h12.30-2pm & 7-10pm Mon, Tue, Fri & Sun, 7-10pm Thu & Sat)

The incongruous setting in a simple house near Villars is not momentous, but the cuisine and attitude of chef Thomas Gallardo are. From the basil grown on a Bonnieux farm to Forcalquier pigeon, cheese ripened by René Pellégrini, and Luberon wine, everything is locally sourced. Children are welcomed with fruity 'cocktails' and their own gastronomic 'petits bouts' menu (€15).

oLa CoquilladeFRENCH€€€

(%04 90 74 71 71; www.coquillade.fr; Le Perrotet, Gargas; menus lunch €38, dinner €72-115, d €325-390; hsittings 12.30-1.30pm & 7.30-9.30pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct)

Overnighting at this luxurious hilltop estate won't suit everyone's budget, but everyone should try to fork out for the great-value Bistrot lunch menu. Michelin-starred and run by renowned chef Christophe Renaud, it'll be one of the most memorable meals you'll have in the Luberon. It's 5km northwest of Apt, signposted off the D90.The hotel itself is a stunner, with luxurious rooms overlooking a sea of vines.

WORTH A TRIP

LAGARDE D'APT

Lagarde d’Apt, 20km northeast of St-Saturnin-lès-Apt, is home to an 80-hectare lavender farm, Château du Bois (%04 90 76 91 23; www.lechateaudubois.com), where a 2km lavender trail blazes from late June until mid-July, when the sweet-smelling flower is harvested.

Also in Lagarde d’Apt, beneath some of Europe's darkest night-time skies, the Observatoire Sirene (%04 90 75 04 17; www.obs-sirene.com; Lagarde d’Apt; adult day/night €10/16, child free; c) reveals astronomical wonders using high-powered telescopes. Reservations are essential for stargazing sessions.

Apt

Pop pop 11,500 / Elev elev 250m

The Luberon’s principal town, Apt is edged on three sides by sharply rising plateau surrounding a river that runs through town – the gateway to Haute-Provence. Its Saturday-morning market is full of local colour (and produce), but otherwise Apt is mainly a place you pass through to get somewhere else. Nonetheless, it makes a decent base, if only for a night or two.

Apt is known throughout France for its fruits confits (candied fruits, sometimes also known as glacé or crystallised fruit). Strictly speaking, they're not sweets: they're actually made with real fruit, in which the water is removed and replaced with a sugar syrup to preserve them. As a result, they still look (and more importantly taste) like pieces of the original fruit. There are several makers around town where you can try and buy straight from the source.

It's also a hub for the 1650-sq-km Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon (www.parcduluberon.fr), a regional nature park and an official Unesco Biosphere Reserve, criss-crossed by hiking trails.

1Sights

Musée de l’Aventure Industrielle du Pays d’AptMUSEUM

(Industrial History Museum; GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 74 95 30; 14 place du Postel; adult/child €4/free; h10am-noon & 2-6.30pm Mon-Sat, to 5.30pm Tue-Sat Oct-May)

Gain an appreciation for Apt’s artisanal and agricultural roots at this converted candied-fruit factory. The well-curated museum interprets the fruit and candying trade, as well as ochre mining and earthenware production from the 18th century.

Ancienne Cathédrale Ste-AnneCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; rue Ste-Anne; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 2.30-6pm Sun)

The 11th-century Ancienne Cathédrale Ste-Anne houses the relics of St Anne, and 11th- and 12th-century illuminated manuscripts.

Confiserie Kerry AptunionBUILDING

(%04 90 76 31 43; www.lesfleurons-apt.com; D900, Quartier Salignan; hshop 9am-12.15pm & 1.30-6pm Mon-Sat, no lunch break Jul & Aug)F

Allegedly the largest fruits confits maker in the world, this factory produces sweets under the prestigious Les Fleurons d’Apt brand. Free tastings are offered in the shop, and guided tours of the factory allow you to watch the process in action; they run at 2.30pm Monday to Friday in July and August, with an extra tour at 10.30am in August. The rest of the year there's just one weekly tour, usually on Wednesday at 2.30pm – but confirm ahead.

The factory is 2.5km outside Apt.

4Sleeping

Hôtel le PalaisHOTEL€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 04 89 32; www.hotel-le-palais.com; 24bis place Gabriel-Péri; s/d/tr/q €45/55/65/80; Wc)

Young, friendly owners lend a real air of dynamism to this veteran cheap-as-chips hotel, right in the heart of town. Rooms are on the poky side, but breakfast is a bargain at €5.

oLe CouventB&B€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 04 55 36; www.loucouvent.com; 36 rue Louis Rousset; d €98-130; iWs)

Hidden behind a wall in the old town, this enormous five-room maison d’hôte occupies a 17th-century former convent. Staying here is as much architectural experience as accommodation: soaring ceilings, stonework, grand staircase, plus five palatial rooms (one has a sink made from a baptismal font). There's a sweet garden, and breakfast is served in the old convent refectory.

Hôtel Sainte-AnneHOTEL€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 74 18 04; www.apt-hotel.fr; 62 place Faubourg-du-Ballet; d €92-123; aiW)

Lovely seven-room hotel in a 19th-century dwelling, completely renovated in 2010. Spotless, crisp-at-the-edges rooms mix modern and traditional furnishings, with exceptional beds and big bathtubs (though small toilets). Little extras include homemade jams and breads, made by the charming owner, served as part of the copious breakfast (€10).

5Eating

L'Auberge EspagnoleTAPAS€

( GOOGLE MAP ; http://laubergeespagnole-apt.com; 1 rue de la Juiverie; tapas €4.50-8, lunch menu €13.50)

Dominated by an ancient plane tree, the old-town square onto which this colourful tapas bar spills could not be more enchanting – or typically Provençal. Take your pick from 22 Spanish-inspired tapas chalked on the board, and soak up the atmosphere on the square.

Thym, Te VoilàBISTRO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 74 28 25; www.thymtevoila.com; 59 place St-Martin; menus lunch €17.50-21.90, dinner €21.90-25.90; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat; v)

'Cuisine du monde' is what's on offer at this charming little bistro – in other words, a little bit of everything, from a splash of Asian spice to a traditional Hungarian goulash. It's on a lovely square in the old town, with outside tables next to the tinkling fountain in summer.

Au PlataneMODERN FRENCH€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 04 74 36; 25 place Jules Ferry; menus €15-30, mains €20; hnoon-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat; v)

Hearty French food, with ever-changing menus that depend on what the chef's picked up at the market. Ask for a terrace table if the weather's warm.

7Shopping

Confiserie Marcel RichaudFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 74 43 50; confiserie-marcel-richaud@wanadoo.fr; 112 quai de la Liberté; h9am-noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sat)

A small sweet shop selling locally made fruits confits (candied fruits) and calissons d'Aix (marzipan-like sweets). It's been in business for three generations.

8Information

Maison du Parc du LuberonTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 04 42 00; www.parcduluberon.fr; 60 place Jean Jaurès; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat Apr-Sep, shorter hours rest of year)

A central information source for the Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon, with maps, walking guides and general info. There's also a small fossil museum.

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 90 74 03 18; www.luberon-apt.fr; 20 av Philippe de Girard; h9.30am-1pm & 2.30-7pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun)

Excellent source of information for activities, excursions, bike rides and walks.

8Getting There & Around

Bus

Trans Vaucluse buses go to the following towns, and charge a flat-rate €2 to most destinations:

AAix-en-Provence (Line 9.1, two hours, one daily) Via Bonnieux, Lourmarin and Lauris.

AAvignon (Line 15.1, 1½ hours, every two hours Monday to Saturday, two on Sunday) Travels via the Pont Julien near Bonnieux, Cavaillon and Avignon's TGV station.

ACavaillon (Line 15.2, 45 minutes, one daily) Via Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Oppède; extra buses run during school terms.

ABanon (Line 16.2, 1¾ hours, one daily Monday to Saturday) Via Caseneuve and Simiane-la-Rotonde; an extra bus runs on Wednesday and Sunday.

Bicycle

Rent bikes from Luberon Cycles.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

GORGES D'OPPEDETTE

The Gorges du Verdon aren't the only canyons to explore in this part of France. Lying 18km east of Rustrel, the Gorges d'Oppedette is a system of gorges gouged out from the limestone over the millennia by the Calavon River. Several marked trails wind though the gorges, lasting from around half an hour to three hours; the tourist office in Apt has route leaflets. It's a gorgeous and quiet area to explore, and the canyons' high walls ensure they remain mercifully cool even on a blazing August day. Pack a picnic and hiking boots.

The small car park is signed off the D201 as you travel north from Viens towards Simiane-la-Rotonde.

Le Grand Luberon

Divided from the hills of the Petit Luberon to the west by a deep river canyon, the Combe de Lourmarin, the scenic hills of the Grand Luberon are made for exploring. Take your time along the winding back roads: the scenery deserves to be savoured.

Buoux

Dominated by the hilltop ruins of Fort de Buoux, the tiny village of Buoux (the ‘x’ is pronounced) sits across the divide from Bonnieux, 8km south of Apt. The village itself is little more than a collection of a few tumbledown houses, but the fort is worth walking up to for the views – be careful, as the path is badly worn and crumbling in places. Signs show you the way, but ask anywhere in the village for directions.

4Sleeping & Eating

Auberge des SeguinsHOTEL€€

(%04 90 74 16 37; www.aubergedesseguins.com; incl half-board dm €45, s €74-82, d €114-134, f €143-247, menu €25; hdinner 7-9.30pm Mon-Fri, lunch 12.30-2.30pm Sat & Sun May-Sep, phone ahead at other times; sc)

At the bottom of the valley, this rural auberge feels like a Provençal summer camp, with two pools (one for kids), a fireside game room and a convivial dining room with long wooden tables. Four stone-walled buildings house simple rooms (no TVs) and a dorm. The restaurant serves fresh, local produce, and room rates include half-board. It's 2.5km below Buoux.

Auberge de la LoubePROVENçAL€€

(%04 90 74 19 58; lunch/dinner menu from €25/33; hby reservation noon-3pm & 7.30-9pm)

You won't get a more honest Provençal lunch than at Maurice Leporati's roadside inn, where the feast always starts with wicker trays filled with hors d'oeuvres such as tapenade and anchöiade (olive and anchovy dips), quail's eggs, braised artichokes, aïoli and hummus. The showpiece Sunday lunch is legendary.

Maurice himself is a horse nut – ask nicely and he might show you his collection of antique carriages.

Saignon & Around

Even in a land of heart-stoppingly pretty villages, little Saignon still manages to raise an admiring eyebrow. Perched high on a rocky flank, surrounded by lavender fields and overlooked by the crumbling remains of a medieval castle, its cobbled streets and central square (complete with cascading fountain) are the stuff of which Provençal dreams are made.

A short trail leads up to the castle ruins and the aptly titled Rocher de Bellevue, a fabulous viewpoint overlooking the entire Luberon range, stretching north to Mont Ventoux on a clear day.

Above the village, the D113 climbs to the Distillerie Les Agnels (%04 90 74 34 60; www.lesagnels.com; rte de Buoux, btwn Buoux & Apt; adult/child €6/free; h10am-7pm Apr-Sep, 10am-5.30pm Oct-Mar), which uses locally grown lavender, cypress and rosemary in its fragrant products. It also rents three gorgeous self-contained cottages (€1300 to €2000 per week) that share a glorious heated pool covered by a greenhouse roof.

4Sleeping

Chambre avec VueB&B€€

(%04 90 04 85 01; www.chambreavecvue.com; rue de la Bourgade, Saignon; r €90-110; hclosed Dec-Feb)

Half posh B&B, half art gallery, this lovingly renovated 16th-century townhouse on the edge of Saignon's cobbled centre is run by art enthusiasts Kamila Regent and Pierre Jaccaud. Practically all the artworks on display are for sale, and the three guest rooms have been renovated in surprisingly cosmopolitan style. The back garden is idyllic, and filled with sculptures.

La PyramideB&B€€

(%04 90 04 70 00; www.lapyramidesaignon.com; rue du Jas, Saignon; d €79-110, f €135-145)

A cute little country B&B, set around a delightful walled garden with its own natural spring. Rooms feel a touch old-fashioned, but they're cosy and clean. There's a €10 supplement in July and August. It's just south of town, on rue du Jas; look out for the turn-off as you drive up on the D48.

5Eating

Le Petit CaféPROVENçAL€€

(%04 90 76 64 92; place de l'Horloge, Saignon; 2-/3-course menus €25/29; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct & Dec)

This village cafe near the town clock is great for a bowl of chilled pea soup, crayfish mousse with mint, wraps, and other contemporary lunchtime creations by British chef Andrew Goldsby. Come dusk, backtrack downhill to La Petite Cave (open 7.30am to 9.30pm, Tuesday to Saturday, April to September), a romantic, stone-vaulted cellar restaurant by the same chef.

oLe Sanglier ParesseuxMODERN FRENCH€€

(%04 90 75 17 70; www.sanglierparesseux.com; Caseneuve; menus lunch €25, dinner €31-41; h7.30-10pm Mon, noon-2pm & 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat)

There's one reason to make a detour to the hilltop village of Caseneuve, 10km east of Saignon, and that's to eat at this stellar restaurant. Run by Brazilian chef Fabricio Delgaudio, it's fast become one of the Luberon's most talked-about tables. Cuisine is inventive, unfussy, seasonal and the perfect showcase for regional ingredients – reservations are a must.

The view from the sunset terrace is almost worth a visit in its own right.

Le Petit Luberon

The westernmost extent of the Luberon massif, the Petit Luberon's craggy hills are interspersed with wooded valleys, vineyards and rural farms.

It's separated from the Grand Luberon by the slash of the Combe de Lourmarin, which cuts north–south through the mountains and is tracked by the D943 between Bonnieux and Lourmarin.

LUBERON MARKETS

If there's one thing you really have to do in the Luberon, it's visit a local market. Luckily, there's at least one every day of the week, so there's no excuse not to shop. They generally run from 8am to 1pm from April to September; some villages also host summer evening markets. If you only have time to visit one, Apt's bustling Saturday-morning Grand Marché is hard to beat for atmosphere.

Monday Cadenet, Cavaillon, Lauris.
Tuesday Apt, Cucuron, Gordes, Lacoste, La Tour d’Aigues, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt.
Wednesday Gargas, Mérindol, Pertuis, Viens, Rustrel (evening market).
Thursday Roussillon, Ménerbes, Saignon, Goult, Céreste.
Friday Bonnieux, Lourmarin, Pertuis, St-Saturnin-lès-Apt (Friday-evening farmers market).
Saturday Apt, Cadenet, Manosque, Oppède, Pertuis, Vaugines.
Sunday Coustellet, Vaugines, Villars.

Bonnieux

Settled during the Roman era, Bonnieux is another bewitching hilltop town that still preserves its medieval character. It's intertwined with alleyways, cul-de-sacs and hidden staircases: from place de la Liberté, 86 steps lead to 12th-century Église Vieille du Haut. Look out for the alarming crack in one of the walls, caused by an earthquake.

The pleasure here is just to wander – especially if you time your visit for the lively Friday market, which takes over most of the old town's streets.

1Sights & Activities

Musée de la BoulangerieMUSEUM

(%04 90 75 88 34; 12 rue de la République; adult/student/child €3.50/1.50/free; h10am-12:30pm & 2.30-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct)

A museum all about the history of breadmaking might not sound like a Bonnieux must-see, but it's actually an intriguing visit. Located in a 17th-century building that was used as a bakery until 1920, it explores the baker's art both in Bonnieux and further afield, with antique millstones, tools, vintage posters and various other bread-related exhibits.

oFôret des CèdresFOREST

In the scrubby hills south of Bonnieux, a twisty back road slopes up to this wonderful cedar forest, the spreading boughs or which provide welcome relief from Provence's punishing summer heat. Various paths wind through the woods, including a new nature trail that's accessible for wheelchairs. The trip up to the forest is worth the drive by itself: the wraparound views of the Luberon valley and its villages perchés (hilltop towns) are out of this world.

The forest is about 6km south of Bonnieux; take the D36 towards Buoux and look out for the signs.

Pont JulienBRIDGE

( GOOGLE MAP )

Situated 6km north of Bonnieux, near the junction of the D36 and D900, is one of the Luberon's most impressive Roman landmarks. Dating from around 3 BC, the 85m-long Pont Julien was built to allow the region's main Roman road, the Via Domitia, to traverse the Calavon River. Amazingly, the bridge's three graceful tiers were still carrying cars as recently as 2005 – a testament to the ingenuity and skill of its engineers.

Thankfully, it's now off limits to all traffic except bikes and sightseers.

Cave de BonnieuxWINERY

(%04 90 75 80 03; www.cave-bonnieux.com; La Gare de Bonnieux; h2:30-6pm Mon, 9am-noon & 2.30-6pm Tue-Sat)

Sample local wines at this superior cellar, 5km from Bonnieux on the D36.

4Sleeping

La BouquièreB&B€€

(%04 90 75 87 17; www.labouquiere.com; chemin des Gardioles; d €80-90, apt €340)

On a side road off the D149, surrounded by orchards and vineyards, this rural hideaway has four country-charming rooms with a mishmash of rustic antiques. All open onto flower-filled gardens and share a kitchen. The three-room apartment is ideal for families. There's a three- or four-night minimum in summer. It's tricky to find; call for directions.

Le Clos du BuisHOTEL€€

(%04 90 75 88 48; www.leclosdubuis.fr; rue Victor Hugo, Bonnieux; d €135-153; hMar–mid-Nov; aWs)

This elegant stone townhouse in Bonnieux spills onto big terraced gardens, lovely for whiling away the afternoon. The dining room has panoramic views, and there's a self-catering kitchen.

oMaison ValvertB&B€€€

(%06 72 22 37 89; www.maisonvalvert.com; rte de Marseille; d €195-220, treehouses €280)

Wow – for our money, this could well be the most stylish B&B in the Luberon. On an 18th-century mas (farm), lovingly renovated by Belgian owner Cathy, it's straight out of a designer magazine: neutral-toned rooms, natural fabrics, solar-heated pool and fabulous buffet breakfast. For maximum spoils, go for the ultra-romantic treehouse.

5Eating

L'ArômeFRENCH€€€

(%04 90 75 88 62; 2 rue Lucien Blanc; menus €35-43; hnoon-2pm Fri-Tue, 7-9.30pm Thu-Tue)

Lodged in a charming vaulted cellar in Bonnieux, L'Arôme is a pricey but prestigious address, run by well-respected chef Jean-Michel Pagès. The menu revolves around gourmet ingredients with impeccable local provenance, dashed with spice and surprises – and the romantic stone-walled setting is a winner.

Le FournilMODERN FRENCH€€€

(%04 90 75 83 62; www.lefournil-bonnieux.com; 5 place Carnot; 2-/3-course lunch menus €24/30, dinner menus €40-52, lunch/dinner mains €17/26; h12.30-2pm & 7.30-9.30pm Wed-Sun)

In the middle of town next to the fountain, 'The Oven' is Bonnieux's top place to eat. There's a choice of settings: the swish interior (carved straight into the hillside) or the lovely terrace on the square. Either way, the menu's the same: rich, delicious Mediterranean dishes, making use of the chef's homemade jus concentrés (concentrated sauces).

They also run an ice-cream shop on the same square.

Silencio à la Maison de L'AiguebrunBISTRO€€€

(%restaurant 06 85 23 22 02; www.maisondelaiguebrun.com; h8am-11pm; aWs)

Lying 6km southeast of Bonnieux off the D943, this inn once belonged to French film director Agnès Varda and is now run by her daughter, Rosalie. The rooms are exclusively for members of the 'Silencio', a creative club based in Paris, but you can still visit to have lunch or dinner at the lovely restaurant, with views of the sylvan gardens.

8Information

Bonnieux Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 90 75 91 90; www.tourisme-en-luberon.com; 7 place Carnot; h9.30am-12.30pm & 2-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 2-6.30pm Sat May-Oct, shorter hours rest of year)

Covers the entire Petit Luberon.

Lacoste

Situated 6.5km west of Bonnieux, Lacoste has nothing to do with the designer brand – although it does have couturier connections. In 2001 designer Pierre Cardin purchased the 9th-century Château de Lacoste (%04 90 75 93 12; www.chateau-la-coste.com), and much of the village, where the Marquis de Sade (1740–1814) retreated in 1771, when his writings became too scandalous for Paris. The château was looted by revolutionaries in 1789, and the 45-room palace remained an eerie ruin until Cardin arrived. He created a 1000-seat theatre and opera stage adjacent, only open during July’s month-long Festival de Lacoste (www.festivaldelacoste.com).

Daytime visits to the castle are possible, but only by reservation.

LUBERON WINES

The Luberon is graced with three main wine appellations: the Côtes du Ventoux, the Côtes du Luberon and the Coteaux de Pierrevert. There is a huge number of winegrowers both large and small – if you're up for some tasting, the best idea is to stop by the nearest tourist office and request a map that shows all the local vineyards, co-ops and cellars. The website Les Vins Luberon (www.vins-luberon.fr) also has a comprehensive list of producers.

Ménerbes

Hilltop Ménerbes is another wonder for wandering, with a maze of cobbled alleyways that afford sudden glimpses over the surrounding plains. It's best known as the former home of British-expat author Peter Mayle, whose books A Year in Provence and Toujours Provence recount his tales of renovating a farmhouse outside the village in the late 1980s. Monsieur Mayle now lives in Lourmarin.

1Sights

Musée du Tire-BouchonMUSEUM

(%04 90 72 41 58; http://domaine-citadelle.com; adult/child €5/free; h9am-noon & 2-7pm Apr-Oct, 10am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Sat Nov-Mar)

A shrine to corkscrews, this quirky museum displays over 1000 of them at Domaine de la Citadelle, a winery on the D3 toward Cavaillon, where you can sample Côtes du Luberon.

Maison de la Truffe et du VinWINERY

(House of Truffle & Wine; %04 90 72 38 37; www.vin-truffe-luberon.com; place de l’Horloge; h10am-noon & 2.30-6pm Apr-Oct, Thu-Sat Nov-Mar)

Opposite the town's 12th-century church, this establishment is home to the Brotherhood of Truffles and Wine of the Luberon, and represents 60 local domaines (estates producing wines). From April to October, there are free wine-tasting sessions daily, and afterwards you can buy the goods at bargain-basement prices. Winter brings truffle workshops.

4Sleeping

La Bastide du Bois BréantHOTEL€€€

(%04 90 05 86 78; www.hotel-bastide-bois-breant.com; 501 chemin du Puits-de-Grandaou, Maubec; d incl breakfast €175-240, 2-/4-person treehouses €170/320; hmid-Mar–Oct; aiWs)

Shaded by 200-year-old oaks, this 2-hectare former truffle plantation midway between Gordes and Ménerbes sprawls seductively behind an iron gate. Inside the early-19th-century bastide (country manor) are 12 romantic rooms, decked out in an upmarket country-Provençal style. Outside, hidden between branches, are two treehouses and a wonderfully bucolic and old-fashioned roulotte (caravan). Dinner with reservation costs €30.

5Eating

Café du ProgrèsCAFE€

(%04 90 72 22 09; place Albert Roure; menus €13-16; h6am-midnight)

Ménerbes’ tobacconist-newsagent-bar is the hub for all the village gossip, and a good bet for lunchtime plats du jour.

oCafé VérandaMODERN FRENCH€€€

(%04 90 72 33 33; www.cafe-veranda.com; 104 av Marcellin Poncet; mains €21-46, menus €35-76; hnoon-3pm & 7-10pm Tue-Sun)

This high-class bistro is a surprise in little Ménerbes – the kind of place where you'll need to unbuckle your belt, and your wallet. Dishes are seasonal, ranging from a copious shellfish platter (€49) to a seven-hour slow-cooked lamb with black-olive pesto. There's a small patio, but the main dining room is the spot for valley views.

Oppède-le-Vieux

Jutting from a craggy hilltop 3km from the modern town of Oppède, Oppède-le-Vieux was abandoned in 1910, when villagers moved down the hill to the valley to cultivate the plains.

From the car parks (€3), a wooded path leads up to the village's snaking, atmospheric alleyways. At the very top of town, the village's ruined castle provides a formidable vantage point over the surrounding valley – although the ruins themselves are off limits while the village raises funds for the castle's restoration.

Several artists and ceramicists have set up their studios here, and sell their wares during the summer. Signs from the car parks also direct you to the Sentier Vigneron, a 1½-hour viticulture trail through olive groves, cherry orchards and vineyards.

For lunch, Le Petit Café (%04 90 76 74 01; www.petitcafe.fr; place de la Croix; menus €18-25; h8.30am-11.30pm) serves inventive Provençal dishes on the village square.

South of the Luberon Mountains

Lourmarin

As you emerge from the deep Combe de Lourmarin through the Luberon massif, the first village you'll strike is Lourmarin. Once a quiet farming town, it's now a chichi place, its streets lined with upmarket homewares shops and boutiques – something that's accelerated since the arrival of celebrated expat author Peter Mayle.

Apart from a walk around town, the main sight of note is the Renaissance Château de Lourmarin (%04 90 68 15 23; www.chateau-de-lourmarin.com; adult/child €6.50/3; h10am-6.30pm Jul & Aug, 10.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-5.30pm or 6.30pm Sep-Jun) – the first of its kind to be built in Provence. Constructed during the 16th century and later expanded, the castle has had a string of aristocratic owners, and is now owned by the Vibert family. Its rooms are filled with impressive antiques and objets d'art.

Literary pilgrims might also want to peep into the town cemetery, the last resting place of Albert Camus (1913–60), who was living nearby when he was killed in a car accident in 1960, and the French author Henri Bosco (1888–1976).

4Sleeping

La CordièreB&B€

(%04 90 68 03 32; www.cordiere.com; rue Albert Camus; d for 3 nights €170-225; W)

In Lourmarin's village centre, this character-rich house, built 1582, surrounds a tiny flower-bedecked courtyard, with adjoining summer kitchen for guests. Rooms are filled with atmospheric Provençal antiques and sport spacious bathrooms. Also rents three great-value studios with kitchens. Minimum three-night stay. Breakfast €7.50.

Le Mas de FoncaudetteB&B€€

(%04 90 08 42 51; www.foncaudette.com; d €98-125, tr €145, q €160; hApr-Oct; Wsc)

A friendly base on the edge of Lourmarin, in a colourful 16th-century farmhouse surrounding a fig-shaded central courtyard. Rooms are cosy and feminine: we liked split-level Marius (good for families) and Paneloux, with its Moroccan-inspired decor. Owner Aline Edme is full of local knowledge, and the pool's a beauty. It's signposted off the D27 between Lourmarin and Puyvert.

5Eating

oCafé GabyCAFE€

(%04 90 68 38 42; place de l'Ormeau; salads €10-12, omelettes €9-12; h7am-midnight)

One of a trio of delightful cafes on place de l'Orneau, Café Gaby – its royal blue and cream woven bistro chairs winking in the lunchtime sun – is unadulterated Provençal charm. Cuisine is French classic and homemade, climaxing each Friday with a giant aïoli maison (veg, boiled potatoes, a boiled egg and shellfish dunked in a pot of garlicky mayonnaise).

Auberge La FenièreGASTRONOMIC€€€

(%04 90 68 11 79; www.reinesammut.com; rte de Lourmarin, Cadenet; d from €180, menus €38 & €78; Ws)

It doesn't get more Provençal than this wonderful old stone farmhouse – the exquisite domain of Michelin-starred chef Reine Sammut, who cooks up outstanding multicourse meals using produce from her potager (kitchen garden). The wine list is sufficiently fine to justify an overnight stay in one of its 16 beautiful rooms and suites.

Cooking classes start at around €70 for two hours, or €165 with lunch.

8Information

Lourmarin Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%04 90 68 10 77; www.lourmarin.com; place Henri Barthélémy; h10am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat)

Leads 10am guided walks (adult/child €4/free) dedicated to Albert Camus (Tuesday), Henri Bosco (Wednesday) and exploring the village (Thursday).

Vaugines & Cucuron

From Lourmarin the D56 shadows the GR97 walking trail 5km east to Vaugines, where Claude Berri’s Pagnol films Manon des Sources and Jean de Florette (1986) were partly shot with the village’s horse-chestnut tree as a backdrop.

Cucuron, 2km further east, is the starting point for walks up Mourre Nègre (1125m), the highest hill in the Luberon range. Maps are available from the tourist office.

If you feel like you've earned a posthike dinner, you're in luck: Cucuron has its own Michelin-starred bistro, La Petite Maison de Cucuron (%04 90 68 21 99; www.lapetitemaisondecucuron.com; place de l’Etang; menus €50-70; hnoon-2pm & 8-10pm Wed-Sun), where chef Eric Sapet creates sumptuous things from produce sourced from local farms. It's quite upmarket (definitely high heels rather than hiking boots), and reservations are essential in season. The restaurant offers cooking classes on Saturday morning for €70.

Ansouis

Little changed in centuries, the part-fortified village of Ansouis has justifiably earned its place amongst France’s plus beaux villages (most beautiful villages). Ramparts, watchtowers and gateways ring the village's old centre and the medieval Château d'Ansouis (%04 90 09 82 70; adult/6-18yr €6/3; hcall for hours), which is now privately owned but can be visited on a guided tour.

The village is also home to an oddball museum, the Musée Extraordinaire (%04 90 09 82 64; adult/under 16yr €3.50/1.50; h2-6pm or 7pm; c), founded by Provençal painter and diver Georges Mazoyer, whose passion for the sea shows in the museum’s fossil exhibits and oceanic art.

5Eating

L'Art GlacierICE CREAM€

(%04 90 77 75 72; Les Hautes Terres; hvary)

Go off the beaten path to find ice cream that's an art. Michel and Sigrid Perrière handcraft mind-boggling varieties of the sweet stuff: from lavender to sesame to cassis. The ice creamery sits between Ansouis and La Tour d'Aigues on a hilltop off the D9 (look for the signs posted on roundabouts).

oLa CloserieFRENCH€€€

(%04 90 09 90 54; www.lacloserieansouis.com; bd des Platanes; menus €29-65; hnoon-2pm Fri-Tue, 7-10pm Mon, Tue, Fri & Sat)

A renowned fine-dining establishment in Ansouis, overseen by chef Olivier and his wife Delphine. The food here is sophisticated but full of flavour and flair – which explains why it's practically impossible to get a table in season, especially for the excellent-value lunch menu. It feels surprisingly relaxed for a Michelin-starred place too.

South of Lourmarin

Beyond the southern bank of the languid River Durance, the sunbaked countryside stretches south over vineyards and scrubby hills all the way to Aix-en-Provence.

1Sights

Jardin Conservatoire de Plantes TinctorialesGARDENS

(%04 90 08 40 48; www.couleur-garance.com; Lauris; adult/child €5/free; h9am-noon & 2-7pm May-Oct)

In the days before synthetic dyes, natural colours obtained from plants, fruit and seeds were the main way of creating tints for clothing, textiles and tapestries. This garden in the village of Lauris contains a collection of such plants, and hosts regular workshops demonstrating how they were used. Guided visits (€8) run on Tuesday and Saturday at 5pm.

Abbaye de SilvacaneCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; %04 42 50 41 69; www.abbaye-silvacane.com; adult/child €7.50/6; h10am-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Oct-Apr)

Lying 7km southwest of Cadenet, Abbaye de Silvacane is one of a trio of medieval abbeys built in Provence by Cistercian monks. Constructed between 1175 and 1230, it has all the hallmarks of the Romanesque style, from the unadorned chapel to the peaceful cloister. Today it hosts concerts and art exhibitions.

Observatoire Ornithologique de MérindolWILDLIFE RESERVE

(%04 90 71 32 01)

This bird reserve on the River Durance is home to some 243 species, including herons and great cormorants. Hides are strategically positioned along the 3km trail (1½ hours), marked with yellow blazes. The site is near the Mérindol-Mallemort dam (signposted 1.5km from the roundabout at the entrance to Mérindol on the D973).