It makes me happy when the ideas that hatch in my head emerge as pretty things people can knit. The patterns in this book are just that: a collection of lovely, knittable, wearable socks. The socks range in difficulty from simple to complex, from a delicately feminine, twisted-stitch pattern to more straightforward designs to please even the most selective wearer. There are lots of amazing yarns here as well. You will find the captivating colors of hand-dyed and hand-painted yarn; the softness of fine merino, cotton, and silk; the durability of wool; and even a little shimmer in the form of a hint of sterling silver. Cables, lace, and knit-and-purl combinations — I hope there’s something here to intrigue just about everyone. There are patterns for adults and children, each presented in two sizes. Whether you choose the angular lines of The Keep or the intricate grace of Ballet, I hope that you enjoy knitting the patterns presented here for yourself, your family, and your friends.
I love knitting for kids! These are very simple socks in delightful colors hand dyed by Gail Callahan, the Kangaroo Dyer, exclusively for Valley Yarns’ Franklin sock yarn. They will knit up fast and be loved by their owners when finished. In the smaller size there’s more than enough yarn to knit a third sock, for the one that always ends up lost! You could knit up a whole wardrobe of socks with just a couple skeins of yarn. I’ve shown two versions of this sock. The smaller one is ribbed on the leg, and the larger is ribbed at the cuff with a stockinette stitch leg.
| Child’s Sizes | SMALL | LARGE |
| Finished Foot Circumference | 51⁄4" (13.5 cm) | 7" (18 cm) |
| Yarn | Valley Yarns Franklin, 75% superwash wool/25% nylon, 4 oz (113 g)/450 yds (411 m) [Yarn band gauge: 7–8 stitches = 1" (2.5 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 0–2 (2.0–2.75 mm) needles]; Jade (for Small)or Mountain Spring (for Large): 1 skein | |
| Guage | 9 stitches and 11 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) in stockinette stitch | |
| Needle | US 1 (2.25 mm) 40" (100 cm) circular, or size needed to obtain correct gauge | |
| Notions | 3 stitch markers (including 1 locking stitch marker), darning needle | |
Stockinette: Knit every round.
Ribbing: K2, P2.
Cast On. Follow the instructions for casting on stitches to cast on 12 stitches for sock B and 12 stitches for sock A.
Round 1. Follow the instructions for knitting Round 1 (in chapter 2) to knit the first round on both socks. You now have 6 stitches on side 1 (instep) for each sock and 6 stitches on side 2 (sole) for each sock.
Round 2 (increase)
NOTE: All make 1 (M1) increases should be worked with a backward loop increase.
Next Rounds
 3 more times |
 5 more times |
| 28 sts |
36 sts |
Next Round (even). Knit both sides of socks A and B with no increases.
Next Round (increase). Repeat Round 2.
Next Rounds
| 4 more times |
6 more times |
| 48 sts |
64 sts |
| 24 sts |
32 sts |
Round 1
Next Rounds. Repeat the previous round, continuing to work in stockinette stitch on sides 1 and 2 of both socks, until the socks measure the appropriate length (see Toe-to-Gusset Length, below). End your work having just finished side 2, sock A. You are back at your marker and ready to begin the gusset increases.
Use this handy formula. Note: For Z, measure on side 2 of sock.
For more information, see Toe-Up Math.
Round 1 (increase)
Round 2 (even)
Next Rounds
| 11 more times |
15 more times |
| 24 sts |
32 sts |
| 48 sts |
64 sts |
Set Up. This is a partial round, worked only on side 1 (instep) of both socks.
NOTE: While shaping the heel cup and working the heel flap, you temporarily switch to working the socks individually. You first work side 2 of sock B back and forth in short rows, then you work side 2 of sock A in a similar manner. When the heels are completed, you return to knitting the socks together in rounds (in the Knitting the Legs section). For information about short rows and wrapping stitches, see Tips for Shaping the Heel.
Side 2, Row 1 (right side)
| 12 sts |
16 sts |
| 23 sts |
31 sts |
Side 2, Row 2 (wrong side). Purl to 1 stitch before marker 1, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work to the right side.
Side 2, Row 3 (right side). Knit to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (wrong side). Purl to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all but the 4 center stitches have been wrapped. End having just completed Row 3.
NOTE: Continue to work back and forth in rows on side 2, sock B only. During the first two rows of the heel flap, you will be lifting and working the wraps that you created in the heel-cup shaping steps above. For information on lifting and working wraps on the right and wrong side, see Tips for Working Wrapped Stitches.
Side 2, Row 1 (wrong side). Purl, lifting the wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 1. Then, lift the wrap of the stitch before marker 1, slip both stitch and wrap to the right-hand needle as if to purl, remove marker, slip both stitch and wrap back to the left-hand needle, and purl together the wrap and its stitch along with the next stitch (P3tog). Turn.
Side 2, Row 2 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl. Then knit, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 2. Lift the wrap of the next stitch completely over and to the left of the stitch, slip the stitch as if to knit, slip the wrap as if to knit, remove marker, slip next stitch as if to knit, place the 2 slipped stitches and the wrap back on left-hand needle, and knit the 2 slipped stitches together with the wrap through the back loop. Turn.
Side 2, Row 3 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl, *K1, slip 1 as if to purl; repeat from * to 1 stitch before gap, ssk to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 5 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have decreased away all of the gusset stitches on side 2 of this sock. End having completed a right-side row.
| 24 sts |
32 sts |
To shape the heel cup and work the heel flap of sock A, repeat the instructions for sock B above.
In this section you return to working in the round on all stitches for both socks.
NOTE: Pick up an extra stitch at the point where the heel and instep meet to prevent holes from developing. (See Knitting the Legs.)
Next Rounds. Work in the round in K2, P2 rib on all stitches on both socks A and B until the measurement from the top of the heel flap is 3" (7.5 cm).
Go to Finishing.
Next Rounds. Work in stockinette stitch on all stitches for both socks until the measurement from the top of the heel flap is 2" (5 cm).
Next Rounds. Work in K2, P2 rib on all stitches on both socks A and B until the ribbing measures 2" (5 cm).
Go to Finishing.
Loosely bind off all stitches using your preferred method (see Bind Offs). Weave in loose tails. Block.
This is a great sock to wear in cooler weather, when toes beg for extra warmth. Living in New England, I can heartily appreciate good thick socks! Knitted in a heavier weight yarn, these socks will knit up quickly. The simple design will please just about everyone.
| Adult’s Sizes | SMALL | LARGE |
| Finished Foot Circumference | 61⁄2" (16.5 cm) | 83⁄4" (22 cm) |
| Yarn | Blue Moon Fiber Arts Socks that Rock Heavyweight, 100% superwash merino, 7 oz (198 g)/350 yds (320 m) [Yarn band gauge: 6 stitches = 1" (2.5 cm) on US 3–4 (3.25–3.5 mm) needles]; Lunasea: 1 skein | |
| Guage | 5 stitches and 7½ rows = 1" (2.5 cm) in stockinette stitch | |
| Needle | US 5 (3.75 mm) 40" (100 cm) circular, or size needed to obtain correct gauge | |
| Notions | 3 stitch markers (including 1 locking stitch marker), cable needle, darning needle | |
Stockinette: Knit every round.
Ribbing: *K1,P1; repeat from *.
Soft Waves (multiple of 6): See the Soft Waves Chart.
Round 1: *P1, K1, slip 1 to cable needle and hold in back, K1, K1 from cable needle, K1, P1; repeat from *.
Round 2: *P1, K1, slip 1 to cable needle and hold in front, K1, K1 from cable needle, K1, P1; repeat from *.
Cast On. Follow the instructions for casting on stitches to cast on 8 stitches for sock B and 8 stitches for sock A.
Round 1. Follow the instructions for knitting Round 1 (in chapter 2) to knit the first round on both socks. You now have 4 stitches on side 1 (instep) for each sock and 4 stitches on side 2 (sole) for each sock.
Round 2 (increase)
NOTE: All make 1 (M1) increases should be worked with a backward loop increase.
Next Rounds
| 2 more times |
4 more times |
| 20 sts |
28 sts |
Next Round (even). Knit both sides of socks A and B with no increases.
Next Round (increase). Repeat Round 2.
Next Rounds
| 3 more times |
4 more times |
| 36 sts |
48 sts |
| 18 sts |
24 sts |
Round 1
Next Rounds. Repeat the previous round, continuing to work the Soft Waves Chart on side 1 of each sock and keeping side 2 in stockinette, until the socks measure the appropriate length (see Toe-to-Gusset Length, below). End your work having just finished side 2, sock A. You are back at your marker and ready to begin the gusset increases.
Use this handy formula. Note: For Z, measure on side 2 of sock.
For more information, see Toe-Up Math.
Round 1 (increase)
Round 2 (even)
Next Rounds
| 8 more times |
11 more times |
| 18 sts |
24 sts |
| 36 sts |
48 sts |
Set Up. This is a partial round, worked only on side 1 (instep) of both socks.
NOTE: While shaping the heel cup and working the heel flap, you temporarily switch to working the socks individually. You first work side 2 of sock B back and forth in short rows, then you work side 2 of sock A in a similar manner. When the heels are completed, you return to knitting the socks together in rounds (in the Knitting the Legs section below). For information about short rows and wrapping stitches, see Tips for Shaping the Heel.
Side 2, Row 1 (right side)
| 9 sts |
12 sts |
| 17 sts |
23 sts |
Side 2, Row 2 (wrong side). Purl to 1 stitch before marker 1, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work to the right side.
Side 2, Row 3 (right side). Knit to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (wrong side). Purl to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all but the 4 center stitches have been wrapped. End having just completed:
| Row 4 |
Row 3 |
Next Row. Knit 3 stitches, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
NOTE: Continue to work back and forth in rows on side 2, sock B only. During the first two rows of the heel flap, you will be lifting and working the wraps that you created in the heel-cup shaping steps above. For information on lifting and working wraps on the right and wrong side, see Tips for Working Wrapped Stitches.
Side 2, Row 1 (wrong side). Purl, lifting the wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 1. Then, lift the wrap of the stitch before marker 1, slip both stitch and wrap to the right-hand needle as if to purl, remove marker, slip both stitch and wrap back to the left-hand needle, and purl together the wrap and its stitch along with the next stitch (P3tog). Turn.
Side 2, Row 2 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl. Then knit, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 2. Lift the wrap of the next stitch completely over and to the left of the stitch, slip the stitch as if to knit, slip the wrap as if to knit, remove marker, slip next stitch as if to knit, place the 2 slipped stitches and the wrap back on left-hand needle, and knit the 2 slipped stitches together with the wrap through the back loop. Turn.
Side 2, Row 3 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl, *K1, slip 1 as if to purl; repeat from * to 1 stitch before gap, ssk to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 5 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have decreased away all of the gusset stitches on side 2 of this sock. End having completed a right-side row.
| 18 sts |
24 sts |
To shape the heel cup and work the heel flap of sock A, repeat the instructions for sock B above.
In this section you return to working in the round on all stitches for both socks.
NOTE: Pick up an extra stitch at the point where the heel and instep meet to prevent holes from developing. (See Knitting the Legs.)
Next Round
Next Rounds. Continue working in the round, following the Soft Waves Chart for all stitches, until the leg measurement from the top of the heel flap is:
| 5½" (14 cm) |
6" (15 cm) |
Next Rounds. Work K1, P1 ribbing on all stitches for 1" (2.5 cm).
Loosely bind off all stitches using your preferred method (see Bind Offs). Weave in loose tails. Block.
This stitch pattern creates a dimpled surface that really brings out the depth and richness of hand-painted yarns. Although any color could be used, I particularly love the soft green, bright blue, and rich red and gold of Lorna’s Laces Tuscany. The foot is worked in plain stockinette stitch, and the pattern stitch is reserved just for the leg. Note that the pattern stitch creates a snug fit on the leg of this sock.
| Woman’s Sizes | SMALL | LARGE |
| Finished Foot Circumference | 71⁄2" (19 cm) | 9" (23 cm) |
| Yarn | Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock, 80% superwash wool/20% nylon, 2 oz (57 g)/215 yds (197 m) [Yarn band gauge: 7 stitches = 1" (2.5 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 1 (2.25 mm) needles]; Tuscany: 2 skeins | |
| Guage | 8 stitches and 11 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) in stockinette stitch | |
| Needle | US 1 (2.25 mm) 40" (100 cm) circular, or size needed to obtain correct gauge | |
| Notions | 3 stitch markers (including 1 locking stitch marker), darning needle | |
Stockinette: Knit every round.
Ribbing: *K1,P1; repeat from *.
Tuscany (multiple of 6): See the Tuscany Chart.
Rounds 1–4: *K3, slip 3 stitches as if to purl wyib; repeat from *.
Round 5: *K3, yo, slip next 2 stitches together as if to knit, K1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch, yo; repeat from *.
Round 6: Knit.
Rounds 7–10: *Slip 3 stitches as if to purl wyib, K3; repeat from *.
Round 11: *Yo, slip next 2 stitches together as if to knit, K1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch, yo, K3; repeat from *.
Round 12: Knit.
Cast On. Follow the instructions for casting on stitches to cast on 16 stitches for sock B and 16 stitches for sock A.
Round 1. Follow the instructions for knitting Round 1 (in chapter 2) to knit the first round on both socks. You now have 8 stitches on side 1 (instep) for each sock and 8 stitches on side 2 (sole) for each sock.
Round 2 (increase)
NOTE: All make 1 (M1) increases should be worked with a backward loop increase.
Next Rounds
| 5 more times |
6 more times |
| 40 sts |
44 sts |
Next Round (even). Knit both sides of socks A and B with no increases.
Next Round (increase). Repeat Round 2.
Next Rounds
| 4 more times |
6 more times |
| 60 sts |
72 sts |
| 30 sts |
36 sts |
Round 1
Next Rounds. Repeat the previous round, continuing to work in stockinette stitch on sides 1 and 2 of both sides until the socks measure the appropriate length (see Toe-to-Gusset Length, below). End your work having just finished side 2, sock A. You are back at your marker and ready to begin the gusset increases.
Use this handy formula. Note: For Z, measure on side 2 of sock.
For more information, see Toe-Up Math.
Round 1 (increase)
Round 2 (even)
Next Rounds
| 14 more times |
17 more times |
| 30 sts |
36 sts |
| 60 sts |
72 sts |
Set Up. This is a partial round, worked only on side 1 (instep) of both socks.
NOTE: While shaping the heel cup and working the heel flap, you temporarily switch to working the socks individually. You first work side 2 of sock B back and forth in short rows, then you work side 2 of sock A in a similar manner. When the heels are completed, you return to knitting the socks together in rounds (in the Knitting the Legs section below). For information about short rows and wrapping stitches, see Tips for Shaping the Heel.
Side 2, Row 1 (right side)
| 15 sts |
18 sts |
| 29 sts |
35 sts |
Side 2, Row 2 (wrong side). Purl to 1 stitch before marker 1, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work to the right side.
Side 2, Row 3 (right side). Knit to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (wrong side). Purl to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all but the 4 center stitches have been wrapped. End having just completed:
| Row 4 |
Row 3 |
Next Row. Knit 3 stitches, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
NOTE: Continue to work back and forth in rows on side 2, sock B only. During the first two rows of the heel flap, you will be lifting and working the wraps that you created in the heel-cup shaping steps above. For information on lifting and working wraps on the right and wrong side, see Tips for Working Wrapped Stitches.
Side 2, Row 1 (wrong side). Purl, lifting the wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 1. Then, lift the wrap of the stitch before marker 1, slip both stitch and wrap to the right-hand needle as if to purl, remove marker, slip both stitch and wrap back to the left-hand needle, and purl together the wrap and its stitch along with the next stitch (P3tog). Turn.
Side 2, Row 2 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl. Then knit, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 2. Lift the wrap of the next stitch completely over and to the left of the stitch, slip the stitch as if to knit, slip the wrap as if to knit, remove marker, slip next stitch as if to knit, place the 2 slipped stitches and the wrap back on left-hand needle, and knit the 2 slipped stitches together with the wrap through the back loop. Turn.
Side 2, Row 3 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl, *K1, slip 1 as if to purl; repeat from * to 1 stitch before gap, ssk to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 5 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have decreased away all of the gusset stitches on side 2 of this sock. End having completed a right-side row.
| 30 sts |
36 sts |
To shape the heel cup and work the heel flap of sock A, repeat the instructions for sock B above.
In this section you return to working in the round on all stitches for both socks.
NOTE: Pick up an extra stitch at the point where the heel and instep meet to prevent holes from developing. (See Knitting the Legs.)
Next Round
Next Rounds. Continue working in the round, following the Tuscany Chart on all stitches, until the leg measurement from the top of the heel flap is 5" (13 cm).
Next Rounds. Work K1, P1 rib on all stitches for 1½" (3.75 cm).
Loosely bind off all stitches using your preferred method (see Bind Offs). Weave in loose tails. Block.
These delightfully sparkly trouser socks just beg to be knitted. Wear them to work to dress up the day or take them out to dinner. If you would like to make these into knee socks (and you have another skein of yarn), keep knitting until your socks reach to about one inch below your knee. For a touch of playful femininity, weave a one-quarter-inch satin ribbon through the eyelets made by the yarn overs on the final round.
| Woman’s Sizes | SMALL | LARGE |
| Finished Foot Circumference | 71⁄2" (19 cm) | 91⁄4" (23.5 cm) |
| Yarn | Kraemer Sterling Silk & Silver, 63% superwash merino/20% silk/ 15% nylon/2% silver, 3.5 oz (100 g)/420 yds (384 m); Tuxedo: 1 skein | |
| Guage | 7 stitches and 10 rows = 1" (2.5 cm) in stockinette stitch | |
| Needle | US 2 (2.75 mm) 40" (100 cm) circular, or size needed to obtain correct gauge | |
| Notions | 3 stitch markers (including 1 locking stitch marker), darning needle | |
Stockinette: Knit every round.
Ribbing: *K1,P1; repeat from *.
On the Town (multiple of 6): See the On the Town Chart.
Round 1: *K3, yo, slip next 2 stitches together as if to knit, K1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch, yo; repeat from *.
Round 2: Knit.
Round 3: *Yo, slip next 2 stitches together as if to knit, K1, pass 2 slipped stitches over the knit stitch, yo, K3; repeat from *.
Round 4: Knit.
Cast On. Follow the instructions for casting on stitches to cast on 16 stitches for sock B and 16 stitches for sock A.
Round 1. Follow the instructions for knitting Round 1 (in Chapter 2) to knit the first round on both socks. You now have 8 stitches on side 1 (instep) for each sock and 8 stitches on side 2 (sole) for each sock.
Round 2 (increase)
NOTE: All make 1 (M1) increases should be worked with a backward loop increase.
Next Rounds
| 3 more times |
4 more times |
| 32 sts |
36 sts |
Next Round (even). Knit both sides of socks A and B with no increases.
Next Round (increase). Repeat Round 2.
Next Rounds
| 3 more times |
5 more times |
| 48 sts |
60 sts |
| 24 sts |
30 sts |
Round 1
Next Rounds. Repeat the previous round, continuing to work the On the Town pattern on side 1 of each sock and keeping side 2 in stockinette, until the socks measure the appropriate length (see Toe-to-Gusset Length, below). End your work having just finished side 2, sock A. You are back at your marker and ready to begin the gusset increases.
Use this handy formula. Note: For Z, measure on side 2 of sock.
For more information, see Toe-Up Math.
Round 1 (increase)
Round 2 (even)
Next Rounds
| 11 more times |
14 more times |
| 24 sts |
30 sts |
| 48 sts |
60 sts |
Set Up. This is a partial round, worked only on side 1 (instep) of both socks.
NOTE: While shaping the heel cup and working the heel flap, you temporarily switch to working the socks individually. You first work side 2 of sock B back and forth in short rows, then you work side 2 of sock A in a similar manner. When the heels are completed, you return to knitting the socks together in rounds (in the Knitting the Legs section below). For information about short rows and wrapping stitches, see Tips for Shaping the Heel.
Side 2, Row 1 (right side)
| 12 sts |
15 sts |
| 23 sts |
29 sts |
Side 2, Row 2 (wrong side). Purl to 1 stitch before marker 1, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work to the right side.
Side 2, Row 3 (right side). Knit to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (wrong side). Purl to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all but the 4 center stitches have been wrapped. End having just completed
| Row 4 |
Row 3 |
Next Row. Knit 3 stitches, slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn.
NOTE: Continue to work back and forth in rows on side 2, sock B only. During the first two rows of the heel flap, you will be lifting and working the wraps that you created in the heel-cup shaping steps above. For information on lifting and working wraps on the right and wrong side, see Tips for Working Wrapped Stitches.
Side 2, Row 1 (wrong side). Purl, lifting the wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 1. Then, lift the wrap of the stitch before marker 1, slip both stitch and wrap to the right-hand needle as if to purl, remove marker, slip both stitch and wrap back to the left-hand needle, and purl together the wrap and its stitch along with the next stitch (P3tog). Turn.
Side 2, Row 2 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl. Then knit, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 2. Lift the wrap of the next stitch completely over and to the left of the stitch, slip the stitch as if to knit, slip the wrap as if to knit, remove marker, slip next stitch as if to knit, place the 2 slipped stitches and the wrap back on left-hand needle, and knit the 2 slipped stitches together with the wrap through the back loop. Turn.
Side 2, Row 3 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 4 (right side). Slip 1 as if to purl, *K1, slip 1 as if to purl; repeat from * to 1 stitch before gap, ssk to close gap. Turn.
Side 2, Row 5 (wrong side). Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
Next Rows. Repeat Rows 4 and 5 until you have decreased away all of the gusset stitches on side 2 of this sock. End having completed a right-side row.
| 24 sts |
30 sts |
To shape the heel cup and work the heel flap of sock A, repeat the instructions for sock B above.
In this section you return to working in the round on all stitches for both socks.
NOTE: Pick up an extra stitch at the point where the heel and instep meet to prevent holes from developing. (See Knitting the Legs.)
Next Round
Next Rounds. Continue working in the round, following the On the Town Chart on all stitches, until the leg measurement from the top of the heel flap is
| 8" (20 cm) |
9" (23 cm) |
Next 8 Rounds. Work in K1, P1 rib on all stitches.
Next Round *K1, P1, yo, P2tog. Repeat from * to the end of the round.
Loosely bind off all stitches using your preferred method (see Bind Offs). Weave in loose tails. Block.
