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chapter 2

Step-by-Step 2-at-a-Time

In spite of repeated efforts to stop knitting socks, I find myself unable to do so. Socks, for now, are my life. I design and knit other things too, but socks pretty much rule me.

That’s a great reason to knit any sock, but there are more reasons to go toe-up. As in my first book, 2-at-a-Time Socks, both socks are started and completed at the same time, which means they’re basically identical. I can cast on and bind off both at one time. By beginning socks at the toe, you can also try them on as you knit them. This ensures that they fit you, or their intended wearer, very well. We can all go to the store and buy socks that fit, or most of us can. I have a pretty small foot for a woman, and commercially made women’s socks are a little big for me. Kids’ socks are made for kids. (Nothing against kids, but I really don’t like their socks.) If I knit my own, my socks always fit. Most significantly, toe-up socks mean that I can begin my socks with a questionable amount of yarn and just stop when I run out. That could mean leftovers from a previous project to make socks for a child, or ankle socks for me. I can knit with partial skeins until I’ve got a few yards left, and then bind off my identical socks.

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A MATTER OF PERCENTAGE

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As with top-down socks, you can think of toe-up socks in terms of percentages. After toe increases, the total number of stitches around the foot for each sock equals 100 percent. Instep stitches are generally 50 percent. Soles and heels are usually worked on the other 50 percent. When gussets are added, the total percentage increases to 150 percent. As the heels are created, the number of stitches decreases. The goal is to return to 100 percent as the heel is completed. Using this information, you can adapt any sock pattern to your particular style.

Toe-Up Sock Anatomy

Toe-up socks “my way” differ from top-down socks only in the direction of the knitting. Beginning with a small number of cast-on stitches, increases form the toe. The foot is then knitted for a bit, until it’s time to increase for the gussets (the triangular areas on either side of the heel). Determining how long to knit the foot requires a little bit of math (explained below), but it’s well worth it. Once the gusset has been created, it’s time to make a cup for the heel to sit in. Short rows give the heel a rounded shape. Next, more short rows effectively eat up the added gusset stitches while a heel flap is built. Then it’s back to working in the round on the leg.

Toe-Up Math

The key to the proper fit of a toe-up sock is knowing when to start the gusset increases on the foot. Here’s what you need to know:

  1. 1. The desired length of finished sock. This can be obtained from a shoe-size conversion chart or by measuring the foot of the intended wearer (see Adapting Toe-Up 2-at-a-Time Socks).
  2. 2. The number of rows it will take to build the gussets and the heel cup. This number varies depending on the particular pattern and size of sock that you are knitting. To make it easy for you, I have already calculated this number and provided it in each of the patterns in this book.
  3. 3. Your row gauge. Rows per inch varies depending on the pattern, knitter, yarn, and needle, so I can’t just give you this number. However, you can easily determine it by counting the number of rows in 1 inch. Measure along one column of stockinette stitch on the sole side after you’ve completed a couple of inches of the foot.

Plug the above three pieces of information into the easy mathematical formula (and with individual patterns) to calculate the length of foot before you begin the gusset increases — “toe-to-gusset length.”

WHY CAN’T I JUST GIVE YOU NUMBERS?

Row gauge can vary between knitters even when stitch gauge is the same. Some people disagree with me. If you don’t agree, try this simple experiment. Set five or six knitters down with the same yarn and a few different sizes of needle. Knit until everyone is getting a given stitch gauge, asking them to change needles as needed to meet gauge. After they’ve knitted a few inches at proper stitch gauge, stop and measure everyone’s row gauge. My guess is the row gauges will vary.

Now, do this in reverse. Knit until everyone is getting a stated row gauge. After a few inches, check everyone’s stitch gauge. I bet they are not all getting the same number of stitches per inch. This explains why I can’t give you the numbers. You’ve got to get them yourself!

Let’s take the pattern for Ballet as an example.

  1. 1. The desired length of finished sock. For me this is a blissfully short 8¼ inches.
  2. 2. The number of rows it will take to build the gusset and the heel cup; for the small size of Ballet, this is 53.
  3. 3. My row gauge. Measured vertically along the stockinette portion of the sole of my sock, this is 11 rows per inch.

When I apply the formula (see box below), I find that I should knit the feet until the socks measure approximately 3.45 inches from the tips of the toes to the needle. Although you can round this measurement a little, it’s best to round down. Socks stretch, and so shorter is generally better than longer. (Metric users can just substitute centimeters for inches.)

TOE-TO-GUSSET FORMULA

X = your desired total sock length

Y = number of rows in gusset and heel cup

Z = your rows per inch, measured on the sole of sock

TGL = toe-to-gusset length

X – (Y ÷ Z) = TGL

Here is my completed formula for figuring the measurement from toe to the beginning of the gusset increases for Ballet in size Small (see here).

X (my desired total sock length) = 8.25"

Y (number of rows in gusset and heel cup) = 53

Z (my rows per inch, measured on the sole of sock) = 11

TGL (toe-to-gusset length) = 3.43"


8.25" − (53 ÷ 11) = 3.43"

X − ( Y ÷ Z ) = TGL

Sample Toe-Up Socks

I’ll demonstrate the 2-at-a-time toe-up technique using a worsted-weight yarn in two colors to make it easier to follow along. If you knit these sample socks at a gauge that’s comfortable for you, they should fit a child about two to four years old.

Needles. To get started with your toe-up 2-at-a-time socks, you need a 40" (100 cm) circular needle. I used a US size 5 (3.75 mm), but I knit loosely and you may find it easier to work with a larger needle. Because these are sample socks, getting gauge is not as important as the learning!

Markers. You will need several stitch markers to knit these socks. I recommend a locking stitch marker, because you can easily attach it to the work. A scrap of contrasting-color yarn tied to the work also serves the purpose.

Yarn. You also need about 60 yards each of two different colors of a worsted-weight yarn. The yarn I used for the sample socks is Valley Yarns Valley Superwash, but any worsted-weight yarn will work. The gauge for the actual sample socks is around 6 stitches per inch, although as I said above gauge is not critical here. (This may be the only time you ever hear me say those words! Gauge is always critical in garment construction.)

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SAMPLING SAVVY

If you don’t know what to do with your sample socks when they are completed, I’ve got a few ideas for you.

Knitting the Sample Socks

Let’s get started! Knitting two socks at one time from the toes up is simple once you understand the techniques involved. By following along with the step-by-step instructions below, you’ll be knocking out socks in perfect pairs in no time!

In this section, I give the pattern instructions for the sample socks first along with a photo, often followed by an explanation of exactly how to carry out those instructions. As you knit other patterns in the book, you can easily refer back to this section for explanations and visuals whenever you get “stuck.”

JUDY’S MAGIC CAST ON FOR 2-AT-A-TIME SOCKS

The cast-on technique shown here is an adaptation of Judy’s Magic Cast On (© Judy Becker 2006). It shows how to cast two sets of stitches (one for each sock) onto one long circular needle: Half the total number of stitches for each sock are cast on to each half of the circular needle. These stitches become the very tips of the toes of your socks. Next, you knit one round to properly seat those stitches on your needle.

QUICK-START MATERIALS LIST

To build your own pair of sample socks, all you need are a 40" circular needle, yarn, and some stitch markers. Here’s what we used to create the sample you’ll be knitting:

Needle US 6 (4.0 mm) 40" (100 cm) circular needle or whatever needle size is comfortable with your yarn
Yarn 60 yards (55 m) each of two colors of worsted-weight yarn. (For the sample socks, I recommend using a different color yarn for sock B and sock A, so you can distinguish them more easily. I used Valley Yarns Valley Superwash in Teal for sock B and Misty Lilac for sock A.)
Notions One split-ring or locking stitch marker and two regular stitch markers
Abbreviations K   Knit
P   Purl
M1R   Make 1 right (see Backward Loop Increases)
M1L   Make 1 left (see Backward Loop Increases)

Casting On Stitches for Sock B

  1. 1. Set Up. Using the yarn for sock B, make a slip knot, leaving a tail of about 14"(35.5 cm). Place the loop around one of the needles. This anchor loop counts as the first stitch.
    image

    Anchor loop on top needle.

    image  Once you master this cast on, you may want to try starting with just a loop of yarn on the top needle in place of the slip knot. Just be sure the tail end hangs down the side of the needle that is away from you. This results in a smoother toe, without the little bump that the slip knot leaves.

  2. 2. Hold both needles together in your right hand with their tips pointing to the left. The needle holding the anchor loop should be on top and the empty needle should be on the bottom. Make sure both strands of yarn hanging down from the anchor loop are positioned on the side of the bottom needle that is away from you. Hold the yarn in your left hand so that the tail goes over your index finger and the working yarn (the yarn that leads to the ball) goes over your thumb.
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    Yarn tail over index finger and working yarn over thumb.

    image  I’ve found that it can be tricky not to default to the long-tail cast on when learning this method. Remember that the yarn tail goes over your finger, not over your thumb.

  3. 3.Bottom Needle. Make a loop on the bottom needle by moving the yarn tail on your finger below the bottom needle (A), up around the bottom needle, and then down between the two needles (B). Pull the loop snug around the needle.
    image

    (A) Yarn tail below the bottom needle.

    image

    (B) Making the loop.

  4. 4. Top Needle. Make a loop on the top needle by moving the working yarn on your thumb away from you, up around the top needle, and down between both needles. Pull the loop snug around the needle.
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    Two stitches on top needle: the cast-on stitch and the anchor loop.

    image  Note that the top yarn strand always wraps around the bottom needle, and the bottom yarn strand always wraps around the top needle. Just remember: “Top around bottom, bottom around top.”

  5. 5. Continue to alternately cast a stitch on to the bottom needle and then the top needle, as shown above in steps 3 and 4, until you have cast on the desired number of stitches for sock B. The sample sock has 16 stitches cast on: 8 stitches on the top needle and 8 stitches on the bottom needle.
    image

    Casting on the final stitch for sock B.

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    Purl bumps on the opposite side of your work.

    image  Check that your last stitch was cast on to the bottom needle using the yarn tail. If not, you may have made two consecutive loops on the same needle, or you may have used the same yarn strand to make loops on both needles. Carefully check your cast on stitches for irregularities. When checking that you have cast on the correct number of stitches for your sock, be sure to count the stitches on both halves of the circular needle. Also, remember that the anchor loop counts as the first stitch.

    image  On the side of your work facing you, the stitches should look like two rows of offset loops. On the opposite side (which will become the inside of the toe), you’ll see a row of twists that look like purl bumps.

Casting On Stitches for Sock A

  1. 6. Drop the yarn for sock B and push the cast-on stitches farther onto the needles. Using the yarn for sock A, repeat the Casting On Stitches for Sock B section (steps 1–5 above) to cast on the stitches for the next sock onto the same circular needle.
    image

    Casting on the first stitches for sock A.

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    All stitches cast on for sock A (lilac) and sock B (teal).

    image  The sample socks have 16 stitches cast on for each sock: 8 stitches on the top needle and 8 stitches on the bottom needle.

  2. 7. Rotate your work clockwise so that both needle tips are pointed to the right and the side of your work without the bumps is still facing you. Next, trim your yarn tails to about 6" (15 cm) so that you don’t accidentally knit with them. Take care not to cut your working yarn.
    image

    All stitches cast on and work rotated.

    image  The stitches currently on the top of your work are referred to as “side 1” because they are worked first at the start of each round; they will become the insteps (tops of the feet) of your socks. The stitches on the bottom needle are called “side 2”; they will become the soles of your socks.

Knitting Round 1

  1. 8. Side 1, Sock A. With the needle tips pointed to the right and the smooth side of the work facing you, pull the bottom needle to the right until the stitches lie on the cable (A).
    image

    (A) Pull the bottom needle to the right.

    image  When you empty the bottom needle to prepare to knit side 1, all the side 2 stitches lie on the cable.

  2. 9. Position the yarn tail and the working yarnfor sock A so they hang straight down from your work and are not crossed. Then, move the yarn tail straight back away from you and to the left so it goes behind the working yarn. It should pass between the working yarn and the top needle (B).
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    (B) Yarn tail in place under working strand.

    image  Be certain to “lock” your yarn tail in place behind the working yarn. This is important, because it ensures that your final cast-on stitch is held closed.

  3. 10. Knit the first stitch of side 1, sock A onto the empty needle.

    image  The first stitch will probably loosen as you knit it. Pull gently on the tail to snug it back up.

  4. 11. Attach a locking or splitring stitch marker into this first knit stitch to indicate the beginning of your rounds. (You might find it easier to do this on the first stitch of Round 2.)
    image

    Knitting the first stitch.

    image  It is important to position this marker so it goes into the stitch, not around the needle. It remains in place in that stitch until your socks are complete.

  5. 12. Knit to the end of side 1, sock A. You are now in position to move to side 1, sock B.
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    Side 1, sock A stitches complete.

    image  Look at the stitches that you have just worked for sock A. They should appear as stockinette stitches.

  6. 13. Side 1, Sock B. Drop yarn A and pick up yarn B. Repeat steps 9–12 above to knit side 1, sock B, remembering to lock in the tail as described above.
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    Side 1, of sock B (Teal) and sock A (lilac) complete.

    image  With side 1 of both socks complete, you are ready to rotate your work.

  7. 14. Side 2, Sock B. Rotate your work clockwise so that the working yarn for sock B is on the right and the stitches on the cable are on the top. Push the top needle to the left so that the stitches on the top half of the cable move onto that needle and are ready to be knit. Pull the bottom needle to the right so that the stitches you just knit lie along the bottom half of the cable.

    Knit through the back loops of the stitches on side 2, sock B. (See here if you need a refresher on how to knit through the back loop.)

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    Knitting through the back loops on side 2.

    image  It is important that you knit through the back loops here, because this particular cast on twists the stitches that you cast on for side 2. To untwist them, you knit them through the back loops on the first round only.

    image  Look at the stitches you just worked and check that they appear as stockinette stitches. If you see a row of purl bumps here, you may have been working on the inside of side 1, rather than continuing in the round to work the outside of side 2.

  8. 15. Side 2, Sock A. Drop yarn B and pick up yarn A. As on sock B, knit through the back loops of the stitches on side 2, sock A.

    When this first round is complete, you now have what appears to be two rows of stockinette stitches for each sock. These stitches will become the very tip of the toes of your socks.

  9. 16. Rotate your work so that the tips of the needles point to the right and the stockinette side of the work is facing you. Push the top needle to the left so that the side 1 stitches for both socks are ready to be knit from it. Pull the bottom needle to the right so that the stitches for side 2 of both socks lie along the cable. You should be back at your marker, indicating that you have reached the end of the round.

    image  Note: If you didn’t place a marker into the first stitch on Round 1, then do so now.

Congratulations! You’ve just successfully cast on and worked the first round of your socks. You are now ready to begin Round 2. If you are making the sample socks, continue to Shaping the Toes and step 17 on the page. If you are knitting one of the project socks, return to your sock pattern to proceed.

Shaping the Toes

For increasing on the toes of these socks, I prefer a backward loop increase. I think it’s easier to knit into on the next round than other types of increases. By looping the yarn in different directions you can create either a right-leaning or left-leaning version of this increase (referred to as M1R and M1L). Using these different versions of the increase on opposite sides of a sock gives a more uniform appearance to the two sides. (For instructions on how to make an M1R and M1L increase, see here.)

  1. 17. Round 2 (increase).

    SIDE 1, sock A: K1, M1R, knit to one stitch before the end of side 1 of sock A, M1L, K1.

    SIDE 1, sock B: Drop yarn A; pick up yarn B. K1, M1R, knit to 1 stitch before the end of side 1 of sock B, M1L, K1.

    image

    Increases completed on side 1 of both socks.

  2. 18. Rotate. Rotate your work and arrange your stitches on the needles (as you did previously) so that you are ready to work the sole stitches on side 2 of the socks.

    SIDE 2 (SOLE), sock B: K1, M1R, knit to 1 stitch before the end of side 2 of sock B, M1L, K1.

    SIDE 2 (SOLE), sock A: Drop yarn B; pick up yarn A. K1, M1R, knit to 1 stitch before the end of side 2 of sock A, M1L, K1.

    image

    Increases completed on both sides of both socks.

    image  You’ve just completed the first increase round of socks A and B. Each sock now has 20 stitches (10 stitches on each side of each sock).

  3. 19. Rotate. Rotate work and arrange stitches so that you are ready to begin Round 3.
  4. 20. Round 3 (even). Knit every stitch on each side of each sock without any increases, remembering to change yarn when switching from sock to sock. Note: One complete round includes working the following sections: side 1 of sock A, side 1 of sock B, side 2 of sock B, side 2 of sock A (in that order). When you end each round, you’ll be back at the marker.
  5. 21. Next Rounds. Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 three more times, increasing in one round (steps 17–19 above), then knitting the next round even (without increases, step 20) until each sock has 32 stitches (16 stitches on each side of each sock).
    image

    Toe increases completed.

    image  Phew! Your toes are done. Now you can move on to the feet of your sample socks.

Knitting the Feet

To knit the feet, you work in the round on both socks, without any more increases, until your socks are a certain length. For the sample socks, I specify this length. However, as you’ll see, each pattern in this book includes an easy formula for calculating this measurement for custom-fitting socks.

  1. 22. All Rounds. Knit all rounds (stockinette stitch) until socks measure 2" (5 cm) from beginning of toes. End your work having just finished side 2 of sock A. You are now back at your marker at the beginning of side 1 of sock A, ready to begin the gusset increases.
    image

    Feet of both socks complete.

Increasing for the Gussets

Gussets widen the foot of the sock to accommodate your heel; they are the part of the sock where the foot transitions into the leg. When the foot is long enough, you create the gussets by working increases on both sides of the sole stitches only. You increase on alternate rounds until you reach the specified number of gusset stitches for your socks.

  1. 23. Round 1 (increase).

    SIDE 1 (INSTEP), socks A and B: Work in stockinette stitch as established.

    SIDE 2 (SOLE), socks B and A: K1, M1R, knit to last stitch of each sock, M1L, K1.

    image

    First round of gusset increases completed.

    image  These increases are made only on the sole (side 2) of the socks.

  2. 24. Round 2 (even). Knit every stitch on each side of each sock without any increases.
  3. 25. Next Rounds. Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 (steps 23 and 24 above) seven more times. End having just worked Round 2.

    SIDE 1 (INSTEP) of each sock still has 16 stitches.

    SIDE 2 (SOLE) of each sock now has 32 stitches.

    image

    Gusset increases complete.

TIPS FOR SHAPING THE HEEL

A heel cup is the rounded shape at the bottom of the heel of a sock. In the patterns in this book, the heel cups are shaped by working “short rows.” The short-row technique is used to add length to a certain section of knitting. On these rows, you work only part way across, and then turn and work back across the same stitches. To shape the heel cup, you work back and forth on the center stitches, working 2 fewer stitches on each row until you are left with a given number of stitches in the center of the heel. To avoid holes at the turns, you wrap a stitch at each turn and then knit (or purl) the wraps together with their stitches on the first two rows after you’ve completed the heel cup.

To avoid potential confusion, I use the terms “right side” and “wrong side” (rather than “front” and “back”) to indicate how to move your yarn as you create the wrap. The “right side” is the side that will eventually be displayed to the public (usually the knit side). The “wrong side” is the side that will be against your skin (usually the purl side). Front and back may be relative, but most of us know right from wrong!

NOTE: Because you use short rows on both the heel cup and heel flap, these sections are worked separately: You first work side 2 of sock B back and forth in rows to the completion of the heel cup and heel flap, then you work side 2 of sock A in a similar manner. At the completion of the heels, you return to knitting the socks together in rounds.

Shaping the Heel Cups

  1. 26. Set Up. This is a partial round, worked only on side 1 (instep) of both socks (see Tips for Shaping the Heel, at left).

    SIDE 1 (INSTEP), socks A and B: Knit to the end. Rotate work and arrange stitches so that you are ready to begin working the heel on side 2 of sock B.

  2. 27. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 1 (right side) K8, place marker 1 (A), K15, slip 1 as if to purl (B), bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, place marker 2 on left-hand needle (C), slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work to the wrong side.
    image image image

    First right-side row is complete.

    image  The stitches between the markers become your heel cup. The stitches on the outside of the markers are gusset stitches, which will be worked later. From this point on, the heel cup is worked back and forth in rows on side 2 (sole) of sock B.

  3. 28. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 2 (wrong side) Bring yarn to wrong side of work, putting it into position to purl (A). Purl to 2 stitches before marker 1, slip 1 as if to purl (B), bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work to right side (C).
    image image image

    First wrong-side short row is complete.

  4. 29. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 3 (right side) Bring yarn to wrong side of work (in position to knit) (A). Knit to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch (B), slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work.
    image image

    Knit across the right side to two stitches before previously wrapped stitch.

  5. 30. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 4 (wrong side) Bring yarn to wrong side of work (in position to purl). Purl to 2 stitches before previously wrapped stitch (it’s helpful to look on the right side to identify the wrapped stitch). Slip 1 as if to purl, bring yarn to right side to wrap stitch, slip stitch back to left-hand needle. Turn work.
    image

    Purl across the wrong side to two stitches before previously wrapped stitch.

  6. 31. Next Rows. Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all but the 3 center stitches have been wrapped. End having just completed a right-side row. Turn work.
    image

    Heel cup for one sock completed and work turned.

    image  Now that the heel cup of sock B is complete, you will move on to building the heel flap of this sock. You will work the heel cup and flap of sock A after you have completed the heel of sock B. You are now ready to work the heel flap. Note: The other sock patterns in this book have different numbers of stitches left unwrapped at the center of the heel.

TIPS FOR WORKING WRAPPED STITCHES

A heel flap is the part of the sock that wraps around the back of your heel. In the patterns in this book, you create heel flaps by working back and forth in short rows on the center heel cup stitches while “eating up” the gusset stitches on either side. Each short row creates a gap between the edge of the heel flap and the gusset stitches. This gap is closed by working the stitches at the edge of the heel flap together with a stitch from the gusset. This gradually decreases the number of stitches down to the number needed for knitting the leg.

In this section you will lift the wraps you just created and knit (or purl) them together with their respective stitches. You can distinguish the wrapped stitches from regular stitches because they’re wearing a little “noose” around their necks. When you work each stitch together with its wrap, you move the noose and hide it behind the stitch it was wrapped around. The completed wrap should not be visible on the right side of the fabric. You may be able to lift the wraps and knit into the stitch in one step, but most knitters like to use the tip of the right-hand needle to lift the wrap up onto the left-hand needle, and then knit or purl the two together in a way that hides the wrap. (For more information, see Working Wrapped Stitches.)

Working the Heel Flap

In this section you will work back and forth in rows on side 2 (sole) of sock B.

  1. 32. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 1 (wrong side) Purl, lifting wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 1 (see Tips for Working Wrapped Stitches). Slip 1 as if to purl, remove marker, slip stitch back to left-hand needle, and purl the next 2 stitches together (P2tog). Turn.
    image

    Purling 2 stitches together to begin heel flap.

  2. 33. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 2 (right side) Slip 1 as if to purl. Then knit, lifting the wraps and knitting them together with their respective stitches as you come to them, to 1 stitch before marker 2. Lift the wrap of the next stitch completely over and to the left of the stitch (A); slip the stitch as if to knit, slip the wrap as if to knit, remove marker(B), slip next stitch as if to knit, place the 2 slipped stitches and the wrap back on left-hand needle, and knit the 2 slipped stitches together with the wrap through the back loop (C). Turn.
    image

    Knitting the 2 slipped stitches together with the wrap through the back loop.

  3. 34. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 3 (wrong side) Slip 1 as if to purl, purl to 1 stitch before gap, P2tog to close gap. Turn.
    image

    Gap between heel flap and gusset on wrong side.

    image  Note the gap that is present between the first or last stitch of your heel flap and the next stitch of the gusset.

  4. 35. SIDE 2, sock B, Row 4 (right side) Slip 1 as if to purl, *K1, slip 1 as if to purl; repeat from * to 1 stitch before gap, ssk to close gap. Turn.
    image

    Gap between heel flap and gusset on right side.

  5. 36. Next Rows Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have worked all of the stitches on side 2 of sock B. End having completed a right-side row. You now have 16 stitches on side 2 of sock B. You are now ready to work the heel cup and heel flap of sock A.
    image

    Sock B heel completed.

  6. 37. Sock A Heel Cup and Heel Flap. Repeat all rows in the Sock B heel cup and heel flap sections (steps 27–36 above) for side 2 of sock A.
    image

    Heels completed on both socks.

Knitting the Legs

Now that the heels are complete, you are ready to begin working the leg and cuff of the socks. You will return to working in the round for both socks. A hole can form at the point where the heel and instep meet. The set-up round below addresses this problem.

  1. 38. Set Up. SIDE 1, socks A and B: Pick up a stitch where the heel stitches of sock A meet the instep stitches of sock A. Slip the picked-up stitch back to the left needle and knit it together with the first instep stitch. Knit to 1 stitch before the end of side 1 of sock A. Slip the next stitch as to knit to the right needle. Pick up another stitch where the instep stitches of sock A meet the heel stitches of sock A. Slip the picked-up stitch and the next stitch back to the left-hand needle and knit them together through the back loop. Repeat for sock B.

    SIDE 2, socks B and A: Knit across all stitches of both socks.

    image

    Picking up a stitch where the heel and instep meet.

  2. 39. Leg. Knit every stitch (stockinette stitch) on both sides of both socks A and B until the leg measures 3" (7.5 cm) from the top of the heel flap.
    image

    Legs measuring 3 inches.

  3. 40. Ribbing. Work K1, P1 rib for 1½" (3.75 cm).
image

Finishing

  1. 41. Bind off all stitches loosely (see Bind Offs). Weave in tails.

    You’ll find a number of suggested bind offs in the glossary. I recommend that you experiment with different bind offs and find the one that’s best suited to your knitting style. It’s important that your bind off be flexible and not too tight. Socks work best when you can get your feet into them!

Now that you’ve completed your sample socks, it’s time to try your hand at a pattern on the pages that follow. Enjoy!