ST. PAUL

St. Paul serves as the capital for the state; it also at times suffers from being neglected in favor of its twin across the river. Take in a concert at the Xcel Energy Center and see what happens if the performer onstage makes the mistake of thanking the Minneapolis audience; it’s a frequent and unfortunate occurrence.

But St. Paul holds its own for sheer beauty in its neighborhoods and downtown area. The ornate buildings downtown and grand mansions along many of the city’s prominent streets (Summit Avenue being the most noticeable) reflect the city’s historical roots. Named by a French priest who felt that the city’s original name, Pig’s Eye Landing, was not grand enough, St. Paul became the state’s capital in 1849, an event that caused a population explosion of sorts, doubling in size in just three weeks. But the expansion didn’t come without criticism; in the late 1800s, a New York newspaper cast aspersion on the local climate, saying it wasn’t fit for human habitation. City officials disagreed, and thus was born one of the city’s most cherished annual events, the St. Paul Winter Carnival (see Special Events).

The 20th century brought highs and lows to the city on the river. The 1920s saw increased crime and the presence of gangsters, due to the tolerance of the local police department. But when the US government determined that the favored hiding spot of John Dillinger needed attention, police began to crack down on crime and make St. Paul a safer place to be.

Regardless of safety, St. Paul lagged behind Minneapolis in terms of cultural growth, at least until the 1990s. As St. Paul became more aggressive toward drawing visitors, development funds were given to projects like the Ordway Center for the Performing Arts, a popular and beautiful live performance venue (see Entertainment), and RiverCentre, a convention center that is also home to the Xcel Energy Center, the acoustically superior counterpart to Minneapolis’s Target Center. The Science Museum of Minnesota (see To See and Do) is one of the premier science museums in the country.

THE COVINGTON INN

Today St. Paul continues to grow, adding new entertainment and dining options to the city. One note for visitors: Former governor and pro-wrestler Jesse Ventura once commented, to the consternation of loyal St. Paulites, that the city’s streets had apparently been designed by a “drunken Irishman.” Whoever designed them, Ventura had a point; the winding one-ways and dead-ends can be confusing, especially during rush-hour. A good downtown city map is crucial for finding your way, and don’t hesitate to ask for help.

GUIDANCE St. Paul Convention and Visitors Authority (651-265-4900 or 1-800-627-6101; visitsaintpaul.com), 175 W. Kellogg Boulevard, Suite 502. Offers extensive lodging and activity information for St. Paul.

GETTING THERE By air: The primary airport is the Terminal 1–Lindbergh Terminal at the Minneapolis–St. Paul International Airport (612-726-5555; mspairport.com); next door is Terminal 2–Hubert (612-726-5555), a smaller secondary airport serving mostly no-frills and charter airlines. Both airports are in Bloomington, a western suburb. Taxis, limos, rental cars, ride-sharing services, and light rail service are available from the airports into the city.

By bus: Greyhound has a terminal (612-371-3325; greyhound.com) a few blocks from the capitol.

By car: I-94, I-35E, US 12, US 61, and US 10 all lead into downtown St. Paul.

By rail: AMTRAK (1-800-872-7245; amtrak.com) has a rail station in the restored Union Depot in Lowertown St. Paul (240 E. Kellogg Boulevard, #70).

GETTING AROUND For travel within the city, Metro Transit (612-373-3333; metrotransit.org) provides extensive service with both buses and light rail throughout St. Paul. Ride-sharing services such as Uber and Lyft have become ubiquitous as well, making it easy to get around without a car. But if you’re traveling outside the metro, or plan on taking many excursions that require transportation, a car rental can be helpful.

THE PATIO AT MOSCOW ON THE HILL

WHEN TO COME The summer months see an influx of tourists who come to enjoy the multitude of lakes and parks, but St. Paulites keep active in the winter, too, especially with the annual St. Paul Winter Carnival (see Special Events), which has myriad activities for visitors and residents alike.

MEDICAL EMERGENCY Call 911.

Regions Hospital (651-254-3456; healthpartners.com/hospitals/regions), 640 Jackson Street.

ICE SCULPTURES AT RICE PARK

Children’s Hospital St. Paul (651-220-6000; childrensmn.org), 345 Smith Avenue N.

United Hospital (651-241-8000; allinahealth.org/united-hospital), 333 Smith Avenue N.

Health East St. Joseph’s Hospital (651-232-3000; fairview.org/locations/healtheast-st-josephs-hospital), 45 W. 10th Street.

To See and Do

MUSEUMS AND HISTORIC SITES Minnesota History Center (651-259-3000; mnhs.org), 345 W. Kellogg Boulevard. Open Tues. 10–8, Wed.–Sat. 10–5, Sun. 12–5. Adults $12; senior citizens, veterans and active military members, and college students $10; children 5–17 $6; children 4 and under and Minnesota Historical Society members free. Despite its rather dull name, the history center takes a lively, hands-on approach to history that makes it interesting and fun, even (and especially) for kids. Serious history buffs can find specialized research help; kids can crawl through a grain silo and explore the world of Minnesota music in a recording booth. An ongoing exhibit about Minnesota’s weather extremes includes a tornado simulator that’s scarily realistic. The gift shops are fun, and even the cafeteria is far above average.

State Capitol (651-296-2881; mnhs.org/statecapitol), University Avenue between Dr. Rev. Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard and Cedar Street. Open Mon.–Fri. 8:30–5, Sat. 10–3, Sun. 1–4. General tours are free, although donations are recommended; special events may have varying admission fees. Groups of 10 or more should reserve tours two weeks in advance. Just down the street from the Minnesota History Center is another piece of Minnesota’s past and present. Guided and self-guided tours are available through the venerable white marble building, which has undergone an extensive renovation and is beautiful to visit. Weather permitting, group tours explore the rooftop to visit the golden horses sculpture.

Minnesota Museum of American Art (651-797-2571; mmaa.org), 350 N. Robert Street. Open Wed.–Sun. 11–5, Thurs. until 8. Admission is free. Located in the beautiful Pioneer Endicott building downtown, this museum focuses on American artists from the 19th century forward. Until late 2018, the museum struggled to find a permanent space, but now that it has one, it plans to have evolving exhibits of its thousands of collected artworks as well as special exhibits and events.

Capitol Mall (mnhs.org). Stretched out below the State Capitol is the Capitol Mall, which has been developed into a large-scale memorial and park. A walking tour will take visitors past memorials representing Minnesota politicians and veterans of wars. The artwork is diverse and thoughtful, and it’s well worth an afternoon’s exploration.

The Bell Museum of Natural History (612-626-9660; bellmuseum.umn.edu), 2088 W. Larpenteur Avenue. Open Tues.–Sun. 10–5, also select evenings; call or check the website for details. Adults $12; seniors 65 and older $10; non–University of Minnesota students, and children 3–16 $9; children under 3 free. Admission is free for museum members; University of Minnesota staff, faculty, and students. The Bell Museum recently moved and is now located at the University of Minnesota–St. Paul campus, an apt location as it’s both a working scientific facility and a center of nature in the heart of the city. The diorama halls introduce the natural world of Minnesota, while other galleries delve into nature and wildlife from around the world. The new planetarium is state of the art. The Touch & See Lab is ideal for kids, or anyone just curious as to what a live snake or the skull of a long-dead mammal looks and feels like. There are various programs and events, including a monthly Sensory-Friendly Saturday for people with sensory sensitivities.

The James J. Hill House (651-297-2555; mnhs.org/hillhouse), 240 Summit Avenue. Open Wed.–Sat. 10–4, Sun. 1–4. Adults $10; senior citizens 65 and older, veterans and active military members, and college students $8; children 5–17 $6; and children under 5 and Minnesota Historical Society members free. This was the residence of railroad impresario James J. Hill, and his prominence shows in the rich mansion. Inside, besides a piece of history, is a two-story art gallery with several pieces from Hill’s own collection, focused primarily on French landscapes. Under the Minnesota Historical Society’s innovative management, the Hill House has numerous events each year that are above and beyond the usual house tours, including Victorian Poetry Slams at Valentine’s and a Nooks and Crannies tour in the summer that takes visitors into parts of the property not usually explored during regular tours.

The Wabasha Street Caves (651-292-1220; wabashastreetcaves.com), 215 Wabasha Street S. Hours and admission fees vary depending on season and type of tour. The caves have a legendary history involving moonshiners and mobsters, and besides, they’re caves. Tours are offered year-round, both with the caves as the primary attraction and as part of other tours (Gangster Tours in the summer, Ghosts and Caves in October).

The Science Museum of Minnesota (651-221-9444; smm.org), 120 W. Kellogg Boulevard. Open Sun.–Wed. 9:30–5, Thurs.–Sat. 9:30–9. Hours are sometimes extended in the summer and during special events. Admission for exhibits only is $20 for adults; $15 for children ages 4–12 and senior citizens 65 and older; free for children 3 and under and museum members. Admission to the 3D Cinema, the Omnitheater, and special exhibitions costs extra. The Science Museum has utilized its executive and marketing staffs to become one of the premier science museums in the United States. A flexible management gives this staff the ability to make decisions more quickly than larger bureaucracies, enabling them to pounce on prime traveling exhibits. A large permanent collection covers all aspect of science, mostly from a hands-on perspective; visiting exhibits tend to be major events, with past visits including the Dead Sea Scrolls, the treasures of King Tut, technology behind video games, and the science involved in mental health. The Omnitheater has a giant surrounding movie screen with specially made movies (many by the Science Museum’s staff) on view. When the weather’s nice, stop by the mini-golf course behind the museum to learn some geology lessons while having fun with a golf club.

THE SCIENCE MUSEUM OF MINNESOTA

Minnesota Children’s Museum (651-225-6000; mcm.org), 10 W. 7th Street. Open Sun.–Thurs. 9–5, Fri. and Sat. 9–8, Sun. 9–5. Adults and children 1 year old and up $13; children under the age of 1 and museum members free. A rollicking three-story space for kids and adventurous parents. Displays are highly active and interactive; educational is an important part, but fun always rules.

Historic Fort Snelling (612-726-1171; mnhs.org/fortsnelling), 200 Tower Avenue, near the Minneapolis–St. Paul Airport. Open Tues.–Fri. 10–4 and Sat. and Sun. 10–5, Memorial Day–Labor Day; open Sat. 10–5, Sept.–Oct. Adults $12; senior citizens 65 and older and college students $10; children 5–17 $6; and children under 5, Native Americans, veterans, and Minnesota Historical Society members free. This fort, built in the early 1800s at the junction of the Minnesota and Mississippi rivers, was an army outpost to establish control of river traffic, but it quickly became a regional center for trade and social activities as well. The fort was used through World War II, when it was a processing and training camp, but it closed after the war’s end. Today it’s a living-history museum with costumed guides and hands-on activities during the summer, and home to several events each year, often focused on some aspect of fort life, whether it’s cooking, the blacksmith’s shop, or aspects of World War II military intelligence.

Green Space and Outdoor Activities

Rice Park, 109 W. 4th Street. It’s tiny, only one city block, but it has the Ordway Center on one side, the St. Paul Hotel across the way, and the St. Paul Public Library alongside, all of which are beautiful and, with the exception of the Ordway, decades-old buildings. The park itself has a walking path and a fountain; it’s a prominent gathering place for visitors to the Ordway, and many of the city’s festivals utilize the space for events and displays. Of special note is the annual St. Paul Winter Carnival (see Special Events), in which Rice Park is host to an ice sculpture competition that always has stunning pieces for visitors to see.

Como Park, Zoo, and Conservatory (651-487-8200; comozooconservatory.org), 1225 Estabrook Drive. Open daily 10–4 (until 6 p.m. in the summer). Admission is free, but a donation of $3 per adult and $2 per child is requested for the park’s maintenance. It’s like a city within a city: Como Park and Zoo comprise several acres with a lake, pool, mini golf, a vintage carousel, and golf course (the last three open summers only); walking trails; and even a mini amusement park. The Marjorie McNeely Conservatory has an extensive, lush indoor garden, a favorite for weddings and parties, as well as a great place to get a reprieve from the winter blahs.

Indian Mounds Park (651-266-6400), 10 Mounds Boulevard. Open daily. Across the river from downtown St. Paul is this park, which serves both as a public park and a historical site with six Native American burial mounds. Some of the mounds date back 2,000 years and hold remains of the Hopewell tradition and the Dakota tribe. The park offers beautiful views of downtown St. Paul as well.

HARRIET ISLAND

An island on the Mississippi across from downtown St. Paul, Harriet Island’s public park has gained prominence in recent years. Amenities include a bandshell, stage, public boat launch, playground, river walk, and jumping-on points for a number of trails. The wide, flat space at the river’s edge is ideal for setting up large-scale events, and the view of the St. Paul skyline makes a perfect backdrop.

But that’s not all. Harriet Island is also home to the Covington Inn Bed and Breakfast (see Lodging), the St. Paul Yacht Club, and the Paddleford Riverboats (see To See and Do), which offers public river cruises.

Harriet Island has also become a venue for concerts and a central location for many of St. Paul’s festivals, at least those of which can be held outdoors. Besides being easier logistically and in terms of security for the city, they’ve also made it pretty easy for visitors—many of the festivals offer patrons the option of parking in downtown St. Paul, then catching a free shuttle bus for the quick ride across the bridge to the island. There is some parking near the island, but it’s limited. See Special Events for information about the St. Paul Winter Carnival and the Irish Fair, just two of the regular events held on Harriet Island.

Crosby Farm Regional Park (651-632-5111), 2595 Crosby Farm Road. Open daily. A nature area with several miles of paved trails for hiking and biking, lakes for fishing, and a boat launch.

Fort Snelling State Park (612-725-2389; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/fort_snelling), 101 Snelling Lake Road. Open daily 8 a.m.–10 p.m. Admission is $7 per car; free with a Minnesota State Park permit. Not far from the international airport is this state park, where the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers converge. The park offers 18 miles of hiking trails and 10 miles of mountain bike trails, as well as cross-country ski and snowshoe trails. Pike Island, located where the rivers meet, has 3 miles of hiking trails, too. The Thomas C. Savage Visitor Center has exhibits explaining the history and geographical significance of the area.

Lodging

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

DOWNTOWN

Covington Inn Bed and Breakfast (651-292-1411; covingtoninn.com), 100 Harriet Island Road. Four suites are available aboard the permanently moored towboat the Covington, which spent its first 30 years as a river towboat, moving cargo ships into place. Now it’s a luxury guesthouse; all rooms have a private bath, fireplace, and air-conditioning. The décor reflects the glorious past days of river travel, and there are several salvaged fixtures and antiques. Rates begin at $145. Packages are available.

HOTELS

DOWNTOWN

The St. Paul Hotel (651-292-9292 or 1-800-292-9292; saintpaulhotel.com), 350 N. Market Street. This elegant old-world hotel, just over a century old, is situated on Rice Park, right across from the Ordway Center and just steps from Xcel Energy Center (see Entertainment), the Science Museum (see To See and Do), and several excellent restaurants (as well as having two top-notch restaurants in the hotel; see Where to Eat). Its 250-plus sumptuously appointed rooms are among the loveliest in the city, and if you’re feeling posh, the Penthouse Suite has a dining room that seats 12, a fireplace, surround sound in the living room, a full kitchen, and two bedrooms and baths. The St. Paul Hotel has been host to numerous high-profile guests, including actors, politicians, and gangsters. Rates start at $150. Packages and specials are available.

THE ST. PAUL HOTEL

Hotel 340 (651-280-4120; hotel340.com), 340 Cedar Street. An upscale boutique hotel with suites and rooms in a 1907 building in the heart of downtown St. Paul. Cherrywood floors, high-quality furnishings, and TVs. Rates start at $109. Packages and specials are available.

Celeste St. Paul (651-222-0848; celestestpaul.com), 26 E. Exchange Street. St. Paul’s newest hotel is adjacent to the Fitzgerald Theater and has a unique pedigree: It’s at the site of a former convent and renowned music conservatory. The renovated rooms and suites are beautifully appointed and come with full breakfast. Suites include an honor bar credit, robes, and lounge areas. Rates start at $149.

InterContinental St. Paul Riverfront (651-292-1900; intercontinentalstp.com), 11 E. Kellogg Boulevard. This popular conference hotel overlooks the river and is just blocks away from the Ordway Center and Xcel Energy Center. There are several room and suite configurations in this recently updated hotel. The hotel restaurant, Citizen Modern American Cuisine and Bar (see Where to Eat), offers better-than-expected hotel dining. Rates start at $165. Packages and specials are available.

Hyatt Place St. Paul/Downtown (651-647-5000; hyatt.com), 180 E. Kellogg Boulevard. Located in the arts-oriented Lowertown part of St. Paul (and not far from the St. Paul Saints’ home field), the Hyatt Place has 149 rooms and suites with sleekly minimalist décor. There’s a pool on-site as well as 24/7 food options and a “coffee to cocktail” bar that opens at 6 a.m. Rates start at $135. Packages and specials are available.

ST. PAUL BED AND BREAKFASTS

As befits a historic river city, there are beautiful homes that have been refurbished into luxurious bed-and-breakfasts.

Como Lake B&B (651-402-7930; comolakebnb.com), 1205 W. Como Boulevard. A beautiful Craftsman home in the Como Lake area, near the Como Zoo and Conservatory. The home has two bedrooms and two suites, all with private bath and full breakfast. One suite includes a heated sleeping porch, and the other occupies the entire third floor and includes a kitchenette and fireplace. Rates start at $95.

Corban Manor Inn (651-348-7239; corbanmanorinn.com), 96 Virginia Street. Located in Cathedral Hill, this recently renovated home has two rooms, a suite, and an apartment, all with private bath. All accommodations include refrigerators, tables and chairs, and off-street parking (one per reservation). The breakfast here is not on-site, but includes vouchers for a nearby breakfast café. Rates start at $160.

Historic District Bed and Breakfast (763-360-3717; hdbbsaintpaul.com), 483 Ashland Avenue. Built in 1896, this Cathedral Hill home was one of the first to be built with steel beam construction. It offers two rooms and a two-room suite, all with private bath and period-appropriate furnishings. Rates start at $150.

New Victorian Mansion Bed & Breakfast (651-321-8151; newvicbb.com), 325 Dayton Avenue. Built in 1881, this Cathedral Hill home has many restored Renaissance and Gothic architectural details. Four suites are offered, all with private bath. The Cathedral Suite has a turret overlooking the nearby Cathedral. Rates start at $175.

Holiday Inn (651-225-1515; histpaul.com), 175 W. 7th Street. Right across from Xcel Energy Center and an easy walk to the Ordway and Rice Park, the Holiday Inn offers the usual amenities and a reasonable price for a downtown location. The cheerful Irish pub The Liffey (see Where to Eat) is on-site. Rates start at $135. Packages and specials are available.

Drury Plaza Hotel (651-222-3337; druryhotels.com), 175 10th Street E. This hotel is within easy walking distance or very short drives to downtown St. Paul attractions, dining, and entertainment options. There’s an indoor pool, and daily cooked-to-order breakfast is included in the rates. Rates start at $150. Packages and specials are available.

DoubleTree by Hilton (651-291-8800; doubletree3.hilton.com), 411 Minnesota Street. This newer hotel has basic rooms and suites and offers convenient location to downtown sites and entertainment. Dining options include a daily breakfast spot and a bar and grill with pizza and snacks. The hotel also has a fitness center and indoor pool. Rates start at $134. Packages and specials are available.

Best Western Plus Capitol Ridge (651-227-8711; bestwestern.com), 161 St. Anthony Avenue. Located near the State Capitol, this Best Western offers less-expensive accommodations. The hotel has an indoor pool and restaurant. Rates start at $105. Packages and specials are available.

Where to Eat

DINING OUT

CATHEDRAL HILL

W. A. Frost (651-224-5715; wafrost.com), 374 Selby Avenue. Open daily for lunch and dinner. One of the most romantic restaurants in the area, W. A. Frost has excellent food, much of it identified as to its local sourcing. The interior, dark but not gloomy, with high copper ceilings, speaks to intimacy, while the outdoor patio garden is a gem, one of the best in the metro. Dinner entrées could include rabbit pate, duck cassoulet, or yellow curry vegetables. W. A. Frost is also known for its meticulous paired cheese plates. Expensive/very expensive.

Moscow on the Hill (651-291-1236; moscowonthehill.com), 371 Selby Avenue. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Hearty Russian food served the Russian way—don’t plan on eating in a hurry, but not in a bad way. Some pieces of the menu change with the seasons, and you can’t go wrong with the ever-evolving Zukuski Platter, a Russian cheese and meat plate. This upscale bistro also has an excellent array of vodka (available in tasting flights). Don’t miss the patio in the summer. Expensive.

DOWNTOWN/LOWERTOWN

Citizen (651-605-0190; citizensaintpaul.com), 11 E. Kellogg Boulevard. Open daily for all three meals. Adjacent to the InterContinental Hotel, Citizen has an upscale American menu, offering traditional items such as cedar-planked salmon, lamb chops, and chicken and dumplings as large plates. The more extensive small plates menu offers seared lemonfish and cacio e pepe. There are several gluten-free entrées, and cheese curds supplied by local Redhead Creamery. Expensive.

St. Paul Grill (651-224-7455; stpaulgrill.com), 350 Market Street. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Located in the St. Paul Hotel (see Lodging), the St. Paul Grill is right across Rice Park from the Ordway Theater. It’s definitely a special-occasion restaurant, with an upscale American menu including steaks, lobster, and lamb chops. The bar is a great stop for a before-dinner or after-theater visit, with extensive wine and Scotch lists. Expensive/very expensive.

Meritage (651-222-5670; meritage-stp.com), 410 St. Peter Street. Open Tues.–Sun. for lunch and dinner. Chef Russell Klein built his menu from traditional French foods, then played off that by drawing on seasonally available ingredients. The result is a highly regarded restaurant that also offers an oyster bar (and an annual oyster fest), patio (in season), and crêpe stand on special occasions. Tasting courses, varying from five to nine courses, are offered along with wine pairings. Available only with reservation (and they need to be made well in advance) is the showy, delicious Duck a la Presse experience. Expensive/very expensive.

Pazzaluna (651-223-7000; pazzaluna.com), 360 St. Peter Street. Open daily for dinner. Chef’s table available; reserve in advance. This informal but upscale Italian restaurant offers a menu that changes seasonally but is always tasteful. It’s a popular spot, especially pre-theater, but if you don’t have a reservation and there’s a long wait, consider eating in the bar, which is quick and attractive. Expensive.

Kincaid’s Fish, Chop, and Steak House (651-602-9000; kincaids.com), 380 St. Peter Street (with another location in Bloomington). Open Mon.–Fri. for lunch, daily for dinner. Kincaid’s offers all the usual steakhouse suspects, beautifully prepared, and with the occasional fun twist; try the American Wagyu Meatloaf Wellington. Expensive/very expensive.

Sakura Restaurant and Sushi Bar (651-224-0185; sakurastpaul.com), 350 St. Peter Street. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Sakura has come a long way from its humble, tiny beginnings. Now the restaurant is two stories, has a sushi bar, and has private tearooms. Best of all is the sushi, splendidly fresh and beautifully prepared. Expensive.

Market House Collaborative (651-202-3415; facebook.com/Market-House-Collaborative-1468359279885648), 289 5th Street E. Open daily; hours vary by purveyor. This unique food-based collaboration was the brainchild of local restaurant star Tim McKee, who created a kind of eatery–farm market hybrid. Venues include the OCTO fishbar, which offers mainstream and less frequently seen seafood items, as well as seafood towers named after iconic singers and songs; Birch’s Lowertown Tap Room & Barrel House, a brewpub with menu items sourced from the following vendors: Peterson Craftsman Meats and Almanac Fish, a butcher shop and fish shop. Prices vary.

THE LANDMARK CENTER ON RICE PARK

Herbie’s on the Park (651-726-1700; herbiesonthepark.com), 317 Washington Street. Open Tues.–Sun. for lunch and dinner, Mon. only on event and game days at Xcel Energy Center. Housed in the lovely former Minnesota Club, Herbie’s was founded by the Minnesota Wild hockey team owner, who named the eatery after legendary local hockey coach Herb Brooks. The menu is protein-heavy, with pork chops and shank, multiple steak cuts, and Minnesota walleye. Expensive/very expensive.

WEST 7TH STREET

Mancini’s Char House & Lounge (651-224-7345; mancinis.com), 531 7th Street W. Open daily for dinner. This venerable family-run steakhouse has been serving charbroiled steaks and lobster, along with generous martinis, for more than 70 years. Live music is offered in the lounge four nights a week. Expensive/very expensive.

Bennett’s Chop & Railhouse (651-228-1408; bennettschopandrailhouse.com), 1305 7th Street W. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Sat.–Sun. for breakfast. A family-friendly supper club restaurant with old standbys including Chicken Kiev, numerous steak cuts, and liver and onions. The restaurant offers a shuttle to Minnesota Wild, Vikings, United FC, and Gopher football home games, and the shuttle is free for parties of 20 or more that make reservations in advance. Expensive.

In Bloom (651-237-9630; inbloomstp.com), 928 7th Street W. Open daily for dinner, Sat.–Sun. for brunch. Located in the Keg and Case Market, In Bloom focuses on seasonal and local fine dining. The thoughtful menu offers both a la carte entrées along with plates with sides included, with options including a 2-pound porterhouse steak, an Asian pork belly, and venison ragu gnudi. Expensive/very expensive.

Downtowner Woodfire Grill (651-228-9500; downtownerwoodfire.com), 253 7th Street W. Open daily for all three meals. Formerly the Woodfire Café, this eatery transitioned its dinner service into more of a fine dining experience at lunch and dinner. It still relies on its open wood-fired grill to produce its delicious meat dishes. The restaurant also offers pizzas and pastas, with several vegan options. Expensive.

EATING OUT

CATHEDRAL HILL

Nina’s Coffee Cafe (651-292-9816; ninascoffeecafe.com), 165 Western Avenue N. Open daily for all three meals. With a limited but quality menu of pastries, sandwiches, and soups, Nina’s is a congenial neighborhood hangout in an attractive historic building. Free Wi-Fi is available to patrons. Inexpensive.

The Fitz (651-219-4013; thefitzstpaul.com), 173 Western Avenue N. Open daily for dinner. Sandwiches, salads, and creative wood-fired pizzas, the last of which are named after various international locales (the Paris pizza has Dijon cream, gruyere, ham and egg, while the Osaka has Spam, pineapple chutney, and Japanese mayo). Inexpensive/moderate.

DOWNTOWN/LOWERTOWN

Black Sheep Coal-Fired Pizza (651-227-4337; blacksheeppizza.com), 512 Robert Street N. (with two locations in Minneapolis). Open daily for lunch and dinner. Black Sheep’s delightful coal-fired pizzas come with creative topping choices, such as fennel sausage, hot salami, onion, and cracked green olive. Moderate.

M ST. Café (651-228-3855; saintpaulhotel.com/m-st-cafe), 350 Market Street. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Located in the lower level of the St. Paul Hotel (see Lodging), the M ST. Café offers breakfast classics and soups, salads, and sandwiches. Moderate.

Saint Dinette (651-800-1415; saintdinette.com), 261 5th Street E. Open Tues.–Sun. for dinner, Sat.–Sun. for brunch. A deceptively casual-looking neighborhood eatery that has sophisticated takes on traditional comfort foods. Bologna plates, Midwestern caviar, lobster and grits, and fried chicken with nuoc cham are just a few of the excellent choices. Vegetarians have several options as well. Moderate.

ASIAN FOOD

While Minneapolis has Eat Street and the Midtown Global Market, St. Paul has its own neighborhoods filled with immigrants and authentic and delicious home cooking. University Avenue is home to dozens of small, casual Asian restaurants that don’t always rely on Americanization to sell their foods. University Avenue also has a light rail line running down it, making it easier to use public transit.

Hoa Bien (651-647-1011; hoa-bien.com), 1105 University Avenue. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Excellent Vietnamese food, especially the seafood dishes. Inexpensive.

Ngon Vietnamese Bistro (651-222-3301; ngonbistro.com), 799 University Avenue. Open daily for lunch and dinner. An unexpectedly elegant entry into the city’s Asian restaurants, Ngon has extensive wine and beer lists and fusion food—and some of the best pho around. There’s also a sharp focus on French-Vietnamese food. Moderate.

Pho by Saigon Restaurant (651-225-8751; facebook.com/saigon-restaurant-saint-paul-129743374913), 704 University Avenue. Open Tues.–Sun.for lunch and dinner. Counter service eatery providing excellent cooking and low prices. Best bets are the banh mi and any version of the numerous soups. Inexpensive.

Cheng Heng (651-222-5577; chengheng448.com), 448 University Avenue. Open daily for lunch and dinner. An extensive menu of Cambodian food, varied and tasty. Inexpensive.

Little Szechuan (651-222-1333; littleszechuan.com), 422 University Avenue. (another location in Minneapolis). Open daily for lunch and dinner. With a casual but attractive interior, Little Szechuan differentiates itself by specializing in Szechuan hot pot, making for a fun and delicious way to enjoy a meal. Moderate.

The Nook (651-698-4347; crnook.com), 492 Hamline Avenue S. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Sure, it’s a dive bar—but a dive bar with some of the best burgers in the state. The Nook has taken the local specialty known as the Juicy Lucy (burger stuffed with cheese and sometimes other ingredients) to heart with multiple iterations. Inexpensive.

Cossetta Alimentari (651-222-3476; cossettas.com), 211 7th Street W. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Cossetta’s has been in St. Paul for almost a century, and there’s a reason for that. A recent expansion led to the addition of a dinner-only restaurant (Louis Ristorante & Bar), while this casual Italian eatery cooks up seriously delicious pastas and pizzas, and the adjacent Italian market and Pasticceria have fresh ingredients and baked goods to take home. Inexpensive (eatery); moderate (Louis).

Mickey’s Diner (651-222-5633; mickeysdiningcar.com), 36 7th Street W. Open daily, 24 hours. This is truly a St. Paul institution, listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A rehabbed dining car with a tasty breakfast and burger grill menu, Mickey’s is the classic quick-and-cheap eating spot. The waitresses are trained to deliver food, not make friends—and make sure you follow the posted rules regarding minimum dollars spent and maximum time allowed. Inexpensive.

Keys Café (651-646-5756; keyscafe.com), 767 Raymond Avenue (several locations across the metro). Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Breakfast is served all day at this location, and you really don’t need to look at the lunch menu (although it’s good, too). Enormous cinnamon rolls and giant omelets (including a Loon omelet with wild rice and mushroom sauce) will take care of your appetite. Inexpensive.

The Liffey (651-556-1420; theliffey.com), 175 7th Street W. Open daily for all three meals. An Irish pub with an American and Irish menu, so you can have corned beef and cabbage or a burger. Moderate.

Barrio Tequila Bar (651-222-3250; barriotequila.com), 235 6th Street E. (with locations in Minneapolis and Edina). Open daily for lunch and dinner. Upscale, authentic Mexican food at reasonable prices—and an extensive tequila list. Moderate.

The Bulldog Lowertown (651-221-0750; thebulldogmn.com), 237 6th Street E. (two locations in Minneapolis). Open daily for lunch and dinner. Bulldog has a robust menu of sandwiches, burgers, and hot dogs, with an emphasis on quality. Try the Black Forest Elk Burger or the Capicola Cheese Melt. Moderate.

Birch’s Lowertown (651-432-4677; birchslowertown.com), 289 5th Street E. Open daily for dinner, Sat. for early happy hour. A sizable taproom with an underground piano lounge. The food menu is limited, but worthy of a visit. Try the Brawt Burger with bacon jam or the smoked pork tacos. Moderate.

Holman’s Table (612-800-5298; holmanstable.com), 644 Bayfield Street. Open daily for all three meals. Located at the St. Paul Downtown Airport’s Holman Field, this restaurant not only serves far better-than-average “airport” food, it can also arrange helicopter rides. Dinner offerings include hearty sandwiches as well as steaks, scallops, pork chops, grilled sturgeon, and pasta. Moderate.

WEST 7TH STREET

Keg and Case (kegandcase.com), 928 7th Street W. Open daily for all three meals. This retail/restaurant/farm market concept opened in the iconic former Schmidt Brewery and offers local food retailers (Forest to Fork mushrooms, Green Bee Juicery, and Wandering Kitchen heat-and-eat meals) as well as a variety of eateries, including In Bloom (see Where to Eat), Pimento Jamaican Kitchen, Revival Smoked Meats, and Rose Street Patisserie. Something for every appetite and budget. Moderate to expensive.

Pajarito (651-340-9545; pajaritostp.com), 605 7th Street W. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Inventive Mexican foods, including soft shell crab tacos, octopus and lamb albondigas plates, and several grilled meat entrées. Moderate.

GRAND AVENUE

Parking on or near Grand Avenue can be difficult. There is a ramp at Grand and Victoria, but given that the retail and dining area stretches more than 30 blocks, the ramp may not be near where you’re going, and the restaurants often don’t have their own parking lots. When looking for side-street parking, pay close attention to road signs; many side streets are for residents with permits only, and violating that can lead to tickets and towing.

Saji-Ya (651-292-0444; sajiya.com), 695 Grand Avenue. Open Mon.–Sat. for lunch and dinner, Sun. for dinner. Japanese cuisine, including extensive sushi options and teppanyaki tables. Moderate.

Grand Ole Creamery and Pizzeria (651-293-1655; grandolecreamery.com/site), 750 Grand Avenue (another location in Minneapolis). Open daily for lunch and dinner. Homemade ice cream, and a creative line of pizzas. Need I say more? Inexpensive/moderate.

Red Rabbit (651-444-5995; wild-onion.net), 788 Grand Avenue (another location in Minneapolis). Open daily for lunch and dinner. An extensive menu of traditional Italian dishes updated with contemporary ingredients. Moderate.

Café Latte (651-224-5687; cafelatte.com), 850 Grand Avenue. Open daily for lunch and dinner. It may be a cafeteria, but forget tasteless casseroles and limp iceberg salads. Latte serves up fresh, lively food, often taking advantage of seasonal produce for a changing daily menu of soups and salads. Whatever you choose, leave room for dessert—Café Latte has one of the most decadent bakeries in the Twin Cities. Tucked away in the back is a pizza and wine bar. Inexpensive.

DISTRICT DEL SOL DINING

Across the Mississippi from St. Paul, the District del Sol (districtdelsol.com) is a large Hispanic settlement with tempting food options. If you’re in town for Cinco de Mayo, stop by for the festivities (see Special Events).

El Burrito Mercado (651-227-2192; elburritomercado.com), 175 Cesar Chavez Street (another restaurant location in Minneapolis). Open daily for all three meals. This longtime Mexican grocer has served the District del Sol for more than 25 years, offering Hispanic foods at low prices. Summer often finds a corn feed of sorts on the sidewalk outside, with ears of corn served with chile powder and sour cream. El Café Restaurant, in the back of the mercado, has both cafeteria and table service, but more importantly, excellent food at low prices. You can go for the Americanized versions or stick to the more authentic foods, such as steamed mussels or huarachote. Mexican beer, wine, and cocktails are offered. Inexpensive.

Don Panchos Bakery (651-225-8744; facebook.com/Don-Panchos-Bakery), 140 Cesar Chavez Street. Open daily. In an unassuming white house is this little bakery. It may not look like much outside or in, but the aroma of fresh bakery goods wafting out the door will make you not care what the ambience is. Look for the guava-cheese turnovers. Inexpensive.

Blue Cat Coffee & Tea (651-291-7676), 151 Cesar Chavez Street. Open Mon.–Sat. 7–4. Across from the El Burrito Mercado is this neighborhood caffeine provider, a cozy bistro. Inexpensive.

Boca Chica (651-222-8499; bocachicarestaurant.com), 11 Cesar Chavez Street. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Mexican foods madefrom scratch on-site, including authentic offerings along with Americanized versions. Live mariachi music offered the fourth Saturday of every month. Moderate.

EL BURRITO MERCADO

Brasa Rotisserie (651-224-1302; brasa.us), 777 Grand Avenue (with another location in Minneapolis). Open daily for lunch and dinner. Their lively menu features Southern- and Caribbean-flavored meats and sides. Moderate.

Bap and Chicken (651-333-0929; bapandchicken.com), 1328 Grand Avenue. Impeccable Korean-American street food, including Korean fried chicken, several iterations of bibimbap, and Korean bar snacks. Moderate.

Uptowner Café (651-224-0406), 1100 Grand Avenue. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. This small but delicious café serves impeccable breakfast foods, including house-made breads and buns for the breakfasts and lunch sandwiches. Inexpensive.

Everest on Grand (651-696-1666; everestongrand.com), 1278 Grand Avenue. Open Wed.–Mon. for lunch and dinner. Nepali food served in a friendly atmosphere. The momo are delicious, as are the many curries. Vegetarians have lots of choices. Inexpensive/moderate.

OTHER AREAS IN ST. PAUL

Luci Ancora (651-698-6889; ristoranteluci.com), 2060 Randolph Avenue. Open Tues.–Fri. for lunch, daily for dinner. Italian specialties incorporating local food sources, with four-course tasting menus offered nightly and a twice-weekly date night. Moderate.

Rusty Taco (651-699-1833; rustytacomn.com), 508 Lexington Parkway. Open daily for all three meals. Breakfast tacos, lunch tacos, and dinner tacos. Inexpensive.

Pho 79 (651-644-2327; pho79.net), 2233 Energy Park Drive (with another location in Minneapolis). Open Mon.–Sat. for lunch and dinner. If you need a heaping, hearty bowl of flavorful soup (Pho and Hu Tieu), look no further. Inexpensive.

Blue Door Pub (651-493-1865; thebdp.com), 1811 Selby Avenue (three additional locations in Minneapolis). Open daily for lunch and dinner. Blue Door gives The Nook (see page 97) a run for its money in the burger department. Its most famous burger is the Juicy Blucy (featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives), a half-pound of beef stuffed with blue cheese and garlic. Moderate.

Entertainment

LIVE PERFORMANCES The Fitzgerald Theater (651-370-2953; thefitzgeraldtheater.com), 10 E. Exchange Street. The Fitzgerald used to be the property of Minnesota Public Radio, but recently was purchased by First Avenue (see page 66), which at least initially seemed committed to continuing to provide the eclectic variety of performances MPR used to. The historic building in downtown St. Paul hosts a wide variety of programming, from classical music to indie rock darlings, book discussions, and comedy events.

Ordway Center for the Performing Arts (651-224-4222; ordway.org), 345 Washington Street. The Ordway is a spectacular theater set on the edge of downtown St. Paul, on Rice Park and within easy walking distance to several prime St. Paul restaurants (Pazzaluna, Sakura, Meritage, St. Paul Grill; see Where to Eat). Home of the renowned Minnesota Opera, the Ordway also hosts touring musicians, dancers, and Broadway musicals, as well as presents several locally developed theatrical shows each year. Place your bar order ahead of time to have it ready and waiting during intermission.

Landmark Center (651-292-3225; landmarkcenter.org), 75 W. 5th Street. Across the street from the Ordway is this impressive building, originally built in 1902 to serve as a federal courthouse and post office. Today it’s a cultural center, with a variety of events—music, dance, theater, walking tours—taking place throughout the year. The building also houses several art galleries.

Minnesota Opera (612-333-6669; mnopera.org), Ordway Center, 345 Washington Street. The Minnesota Opera formed in the 1970s, and in the mid-1980s it became one of the original tenants of the new Ordway Center. Today the company produces four or five full operas each year, using both local and international opera performers in innovative stagings. The primary focus is bel canto, and each season includes at least one bel canto masterpiece. The company has also premiered several new works and brought back Bernard Herrmann’s Wuthering Heights, a rarely performed piece. The opera is also developing programming aimed at young children, with special performances and opera camps.

Penumbra Theatre (651-224-3180; penumbratheatre.org), 270 N. Kent Street. Penumbra is one of a few African-American theaters in the country to produce a full season each year. Creative director Lou Bellamy has led the company to national prominence with quality productions and high-profile theatrical premiers, including several August Wilson works. Programming includes socially relevant productions along with educational events to spur discussion in the community. The company’s Black Nativity is one of the Twin Cities’ most popular holiday events each year.

St. Paul Chamber Orchestra (651-291-1144; thespco.org), 408 St. Peter Street, third floor. The SPCO is a full-time professional chamber orchestra, and they are a busy group; besides performing in their own music hall on St. Peter Street, they also headline the Ordway Center and offer suburban venues, including in Wayzata and Eden Prairie. The company gives more than 150 performances each year, including a set of children’s concerts and occasional international tours.

ORDWAY CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS

Xcel Energy Center (651-726-8200; xcelenergycenter.com), 199 W. Kellogg Boulevard. Part of the larger River Centre entertainment and convention complex, the Xcel Energy Center is home to the Minnesota Wild NHL team (see Sporting Events) and plays host to a wide variety of touring performers. Like its counterpart across the river, the Target Center, Xcel brings in top-level entertainers and bands; unlike Target Center, Xcel was built with concert acoustics in mind. Locals rejoice when their favorites play here, because the sound is much better.

History Theatre (651-292-4323; historytheatre.com), 30 10th Street E. A theater company devoted to original plays focused on the American experience, primarily Minnesotan, both historical and current. Recent productions have included plays about the infamous Glensheen murders and a world premier rock musical about the northern Minnesota Runestone controversy.

Circus Juventas (651-699-8229; circusjuventas.org), 1270 Montreal Avenue. Circus Juventas is a performing-arts circus school for people ages 3 to 21. Besides offering workshops and camps, the Juventas troupes put on two shows annually. Call or check the website for a schedule.

SPORTING EVENTS St. Paul Saints (651-644-6659; saintsbaseball.com), CHS Field, 360 Broadway Street. The Saints is the Twin Cities’ minor league baseball team, owned in part by actor Bill Murray. Their move to a new stadium in Lowertown St. Paul provided them with a fantastic new venue that includes far more amenities, including bars and food areas, than their previous Midway Stadium did. In addition, there’s a grassy hill area that visitors can get cheap tickets for and bring a blanket and a picnic. The Saints have also partnered with the Lowertown arts community to provide display space for many local artists. They may not have the name power of the Minnesota Twins, but the Saints do have goofy activities and displays between innings, including a live pig as mascot.

Minnesota Wild (651-602-6000; nhl.com/wild), 175 W. Kellogg Boulevard. Minnesota’s NHL hockey team plays its home games at the Xcel Energy Center.

Minnesota United (763-476-2237; mnufc.com), Allianz Field, 400 Snelling Avenue N. Professional soccer got its own stadium in Minnesota in 2019 with Allianz Field and the Minnesota United Football Club. The stadium comes complete with a beer garden–type restaurant offering 96 taps and local foods.

Minnesota RollerGirls (320-634-6674; mnrollergirls.com), Xcel Energy Center, 175 W. Kellogg Boulevard. The RollerGirls play their regular season at Xcel Energy Center’s Roy Wilkins Auditorium and are founding members of the Women’s Flat Track Derby Association. They were the first league in the United States to have a professional arena for practices and bouts, and the four home teams (Atomic Bombshells, Dagger Dolls, Garda Belts, and Rockits) play with spirit and athleticism.

Selective Shopping

Stores are open year-round unless otherwise noted.

BOOKS Next Chapter Booksellers (651-225-8989; nextchapterbooksellers.com), 38 S. Snelling Avenue. Open daily. This thoughtfully stocked bookstore, originally owned by Garrison Keillor, has a frequently updated set of offerings and a heavy roster of in-store events.

GRAND AVENUE SHOPPING

Just outside of downtown St. Paul is Grand Avenue, which runs parallel to Summit Avenue, home to many sumptuous St. Paul mansions (including the governor’s mansion). Grand Avenue itself is a walker’s paradise of restaurants and shops, many in rehabbed homes. The heart of the area is Victoria Crossings, the intersection of Grand Avenue and Victoria, where a public parking ramp and several restaurants are situated. An annual festival, Grand Old Day, showcases the neighborhood (see Special Events). Following is an overview of some of the shops to visit (see grandave.com for details).

GoodThings Bibelot (651-222-0321; shopgoodthings.com), 1082 Grand Avenue, with another location in Minneapolis. Open daily. GoodThings Bibelot stores carry all kinds of guilty pleasures, from locally made jewelry to unique women’s clothing to off-the-wall kitchen and bath items, greeting cards, and toys for kids.

Cooks of Crocus Hill (651-228-1333; cooksofcrocushill.com), 877 Grand Avenue (with locations in Minneapolis and Stillwater). Open daily. All the fine cooking supplies you ever thought, or never knew, you needed. Cooks also offers an extensive class list.

Northern Brewer (651-223-6114; northernbrewer.com), 1150 Grand Avenue. Open daily. Supplies for home-brew or winemaking beginners and aficionados, including many class offerings.

Treadle Yard Goods (651-698-9690; treadleyardgoods.com), 1338 Grand Avenue. Open daily. Fabric and supplies for those interested in sewing, including some unusual and high-end items.

Golden Fig (651-602-0144; goldenfig.com), 794 Grand Avenue. Open daily. This gem offers a large selection of (mostly local) gourmet foods, treats, spices, local artisanal cheese, and heavenly chocolates.

Red Balloon Bookshop (651-224-8320; redballoonbookshop.com), 891 Grand Avenue. Open daily. This bookstore in a refurbished house focuses solely on children’s books, and their expertise is considerable. The shop carries a wide range of books, and they host several events every month. The staff is knowledgeable and friendly.

Winding Trail Books (651-414-9431; windingtrailbooks.com), 2230 Carter Avenue. Open Tues.–Sat. Books and gifts in the uber-charming St. Anthony neighborhood.

YARN Possibly because of the climate in the winter, or just because arts and creativity are prized in this community, the Twin Cities metro area has an unusually large selection of yarn shops. The following shops are in St. Paul unless otherwise noted.

The Yarnery (651-222-5793; yarnery.com), 840 Grand Avenue. Open daily. A tiny cottage of a shop, but with a good selection and a small sales annex.

Three Kittens Needle Arts (651-457-4969; 3kittensneedlearts.com), 750 Main Street, Mendota Heights. Open Tues.–Sun. A sizable yarn shop with a wide variety of products.

Sheepy Yarn Shoppe (651-426-5463 or 1-800-480-5462; sheepyyarnmn.com), 2185 3rd Street, White Bear Lake. Open Mon.–Sat. A cozy shop, complete with fireplace, for yarn lovers to relax, shop, or pursue their favorite yarn activity.

Knitting From the Heart (651-702-0880; heartknit.com), 1785 Radio Drive, Woodbury. Open Mon.–Sat. Carries a wide and changing variety of yarns, including new and unusual brands.

THE MINNESOTA STATE FAIR

Minnesota State Fair (651-288-4400; mnstatefair.org), 1265 N. Snelling Avenue. Open for 10 days through Labor Day. Adults $11; senior citizens $9; children 5–12 $8; children under 5 free. Various discounts are offered; check the website for details. Billed as the “Great Minnesota Get-Together,” the fair is the classic rite of passage from summer to fall. Attended by more than 2 million people each year, the state fair is held on permanent fairgrounds in St. Paul. Parking can be tricky and expensive; most public transit companies around the Twin Cities offer state fair buses that bypass the parking issue. The fair has something for everyone: animals (farm and pets); farm machinery; rides small and large; live entertainment all day (some included in the admission, some incurring extra costs, especially the grandstand shows that tend to have the name performers); exhibits with crafts and fine arts; games; a Miracle of Birth Center, where animals are on display during their birth process; parades; haunted house; hands-on exhibits from vendors; and food. The fair is well-known for its food, much of which lacks a healthy quality but makes up for it in taste and, in recent years, has seen some sharp increases in quality and creativity. Go early, go often.

Special Events

Spring and fall: St. Paul Art Crawl (651-233-7233; saintpaulartcrawl.org), Downtown and Lowertown. Held in the spring and fall, and allows more than 200 local artists and galleries to open their studios to visitors and potential buyers.

Year-round: Minnesota Historical Society (mnhs.org/calendar). The historical society, which maintains sites all over the state, has numerous events, some annual, some one time only. Check their website for information on upcoming festivities at their St. Paul headquarters, as well as around St. Paul and the state, including Historic Fort Snelling (see To See and Do). Special events around various holidays, including haunted State Capitol tours for Halloween and multitudes of historical Christmas celebrations, are of special interest.

January: Saint Paul Winter Carnival (651-223-4700; wintercarnival.com), various sites. Legend has it that this festival began in response to comments about St. Paul made by a New York reporter who said winters were “unfit for human habitation.” Hence, a carnival to prove that not only is the winter not uninhabitable, but it can be quite hospitable and even fun. For 12 days starting in late Jan., St. Paul hosts a wide variety of events, including a coronation of winter royalty, a torchlight parade, snow sculpting and ice carving contests, a medallion treasure hunt, numerous kids’ activities, and a “Frozen” 5K and half marathon. Check the website for details of each year’s events; some years have included the building of an ice palace.

May: Festival of Nations (651-647-0191; festivalofnations.com), River Centre, 175 W. Kellogg Boulevard. For nearly 90 years this festival has been held annually in early May, celebrating the melting-pot diversity of America and, increasingly, Minnesota. Nearly 100 different cultures are represented, with shops, cafés, musical and dance performances, craft demonstrations, and displays of cultural traditions.

Cinco de Mayo (651-223-7400; cincodemayosaintpaul.com), District del Sol. St. Paul’s vibrant West Side, already the home to many Hispanic restaurants and shops (see Where to Eat), hosts this annual event. Two days of food, fun, live entertainment, a low-rider car show, parade, 5K and 1-mile races, salsa-tasting contests, and children’s activities are all part of the celebration. Proceeds are reinvested into the neighborhood.

June: Grand Old Day (651-699-0029, grandave.com), Grand Avenue. Held the first Sunday in June. It’s only one day, but what a day. Grand Old Day kicks off with races of varying lengths (8K, 5K, 0.5 mile, 0.25 mile), followed by food, parades, an art fair, kids’ activities, live music, and a teen battle of the bands.

August: Irish Fair (952-645-0221; irishfair.com), Harriet Island. Just as summer is starting to wind down, Harriet Island hosts three days of everything Irish: options can include music, food, dance, drink, rugby matches, sheepherding, Gaelic football games, kids’ activities, and a Best Legs in a Kilt contest.

September: St. Paul Bike Classic Bike Tour (952-882-3180; bikeclassic.org), University of St. Thomas. Not a race, but an actual tour; there are two routes, 15 and 30 miles, for bikers to choose from, which cycle along the Mississippi River and then on to either Summit Avenue or up to Indian Mounds Park and around Lake Phalen. Routes can change; check the website for details.

November: Hmong American New Year (651-207-8467; hmongamericaninc.org), Minnesota State Fairgrounds, 1265 N. Snelling Avenue. This annual holiday celebrates and educates visitors about the Hmong New Year with traditional foods, clothing, music, dance, and shopping. The Hmong population in the Twin Cities is one of the largest in the United States, and this celebration has taken place for more than 40 years.