GRAND MARAIS/GRAND PORTAGE/GUNFLINT TRAIL

The farthest northeast corner of the state, running along the Canadian border through the Boundary Waters, is a nature lover’s paradise. The opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, fishing, hunting, bird-watching, hiking, biking, and observing wildlife are countless. Which is not to say there are no other things to do in the area—but they act as accompaniments to the natural centerpiece.

A car is pretty much a necessity, and if you’re planning on venturing into the Boundary Waters, it’s strongly recommended to purchase the Superior National Forest Visitor Map. Published by the USDA in conjunction with Superior National Forest, this is an incredibly detailed map of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). It wouldn’t hurt to buy a magnifying glass with which to read it. The BWCAW is full of trails that don’t appear on most state maps, and it’s easy to get lost unless you’re very familiar with the area. The map is available in a sturdy, waterproof plastic version for about $10. Many local gas stations and convenience stores sell it, or contact the Superior National Forest headquarters in Duluth (218-626-4300) for information onordering one. Also be sure to check out Green Space and Outdoor Activities for some suggested outfitters.

To See and Do

ARTS AND CRAFTS North House Folk School (218-387-9762 or 1-888-387-9762; northhouse.org), 500 W. MN 61, Grand Marais. North House is a nonprofit organization committed to rekindling interest in and developing abilities of old-style crafts and survival techniques. More than 200 courses are offered each year, some as short as a day, some taking several days. Courses include not only how to cook and bake in an outdoor brick oven, but how to build the oven; constructing kayaks and canoes; building yurts and a facsimile of Thoreau’s cabin; knitting, papermaking, and jewelry making; and ancient Native American techniques for basket weaving.

Grand Marais Art Colony (218-387-2737; grandmaraisartcolony.org), 120 W. 3rd Avenue, Grand Marais. The city itself is known as an art colony, a quiet seaside-like community with diverse seasons that attracts resident and visiting artists. It’s no wonder then that the official Grand Marais Art Colony is a popular and active organization. The colony sponsors year-round artclasses, art events and competitions, and an annual arts festival (see Special Events).

GAMING Grand Portage Casino (1-800-543-1384; grandportage.com), 70 Casino Drive, Grand Portage. Open 24/7. This casino takes the north woods theme and runs with it, including a northern lights display in the carefully designed ceiling. The casino has a hotel (see Lodging) and offers a shuttle to Thunder Bay, Ontario (US citizens will need passports to cross the border).

MUSEUMS Chik-Wauk Museum and Nature Center (218-388-9915; chikwauk.com), 28 Moose Pond Drive, Grand Marais. Open daily 10–5, May–mid-Oct. Admission is $5 for adults, ages 5–18 $2; or free for children under 5 and Gunflint Trail Historical Society members. The Chik-Wauk is a new addition to the Gunflint Trail, located on the farthest end from Grand Marais, and well worth a visit. A small but packed nature center details the history and geography of the Trail, while five hiking trails crisscross through the site’s 50 acres with varying levels of difficulty, including one ADA trail.

Green Space and Outdoor Activities

BOUNDARY WATERS CANOE AREA WILDERNESS ADVENTURES Be aware that visitors to the BWCAW, except for day-only visitors, need to reserve a permit ahead of time. Your outfitter can do this for you, or you can contact Reserve America (1-877-444-6777; recreation.gov).

Boundary Country Trekking (218-388-4487 or 1-800-322-8327; boundarycountry.com), 11 Poplar Creek Drive, Gunflint Trail. Ted and Barbara Young, proprietors of the Poplar Creek Guest House (see Lodging), offer a variety of adventure arrangements in the Gunflint Trail/Boundary Waters area. They can organize lodge-to-lodge hiking and biking trips, canoe/biking trips, mountain biking trips, and canoeing trips.

Clearwater BWCA Outfitters (218-260-2253; clearwateroutfitters.com), 772 Clearwater Road, Grand Marais. Residing along Clearwater Lake in the Boundary Waters area, Clearwater offers both a lodge (see Lodging) and an outfitting company, the latter of which has operated for more than 100 years. The proprietors can assist you with canoeing, hiking, fishing, birding, and even wildlife photograph trips.

GRAND MARAIS HARBOR

GRAND PORTAGE NATIONAL MONUMENT

Grand Portage National Monument and Heritage Center (218-475-0123; nps.gov/grpo), 170 Mile Creek Road, Grand Portage. The historic site itself is open daily, late May–mid-Oct., while the heritage center is open year-round. Admission is free. This monument is really a don’t-miss for visitors to the area. An extensive re-creation of the life of traders and Native Americans before there was a United States and Canada, the national monument has a traditional Ojibwe village, a reconstruction of the Northwest Company’s stockade (including a great hall and kitchen), a fur trade canoe under construction, and historic gardens that represent what the original trading villages grew. Kids’ programs are offered in the summer, and costumed historical guides are available to answer questions. Trails outside the stockade take visitors deep into the northern wilderness, and there are snowshoe trails available during the winter. The national monument also serves as the departure point for the ferry to Isle Royale, which is the largest island in Lake Superior (and technically is part of Michigan). After visiting the monument, if you feel ambitious, cross the street and hike the Mount Rose Trail, a 0.5-mile, very steep trail that will reward you with panoramic views of the monument, Lake Superior, and the Sawtooth Mountains.

GRAND PORTAGE NATIONAL MONUMENT, SEEN FROM THE MOUNT ROSE TRAIL

Sawbill Canoe Outfitters (218-663-7150; sawbill.com), 4620 Sawbill Trail, Tofte. Sawbill has been arranging BWCAW trips for more than 50 years, and they’ve got keen insight into navigating the wilderness. Sawbill offers full and partial outfitting, canoe touring, and even food-only arrangements.

DEVIL’S KETTLE WATERFALL AT JUDGE C.R. MAGNEY STATE PARK

PARKS AND PARKWAYS From Grand Marais north is an abundance of state parks and wildlife areas. Be sure to check local conditions before visiting—nearly annual droughts have brought severe fire restrictions in parks and campsites in recent years, and some park access is limited during wildfires. Check with individual parks for up-to-the-minute information.

Judge C.R. Magney State Park (218-387-6300; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks), 4051 E. MN 61, Grand Marais. Open daily summer (call for winter hours). This park, located between Grand Marais and Grand Portage, is home to the Brule River. The Brule leads to Devil’s Kettle, a unique 50-foot waterfall that is rumored to have a bottomless cauldron. Nine miles of hiking trails, including an ascent to Devil’s Kettle, are open during the season, as well as several fishing sites. Campsites are available; advance reservations are recommended.

Grand Portage State Park (218-475-2360; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks), 9393 E. MN 61, Grand Portage. Open daily. This park, the only Minnesota state park operated jointly with an Indian tribe, has naturalists on hand during the summer months who are tribe members that can speak about local Ojibwe history. The park also boasts Minnesota’s highest waterfall, the 120-foot-tall High Falls. Camping is not available, but the falls are easily accessible for day visitors via a 0.5-mile trail and boardwalk.

Gunflint Trail (1-800-338-6932; visitcookcounty.com/community/gunflint-trail). A 57-mile paved road leading from Grand Marais to Saganaga Lake near the Canadian border, the Gunflint Trail is hands down one of the most beautiful drives in the region. Acres of forest uninterrupted by more than the occasional café or shop, the trail also has an extensive collection of lodging options (see Lodging) nestled within the trees, as well as a new historical center and hiking spot at Chik-Wauk Museum (see To See and Do). Watch your speed as you drive; it’s not unusual to have a deer, wolf, or even a moose appear on the road, and all of these animals can do as much harm to you and your vehicle as you can do to them. The area has enjoyed a growth in year-round tourism, thanks to the increased popularity of winter sports joining the ranks of other favored pastimes, such as birding, mountain biking, fall foliage viewing, canoeing and kayaking, camping, fishing, and even mushroom and berry picking. In extreme weather the road may be closed, but since there are year-round residents, it is plowed whenever feasible.

Lodging

GLAMPING

GRAND MARAIS

Wunderbar Eatery & Glampground (218-877-7655; wunderbarmn.com), 1615 MN 61. Five vintage campers and two lotus belle tents, available year-round. The glampground’s bar and grill will deliver food to the camper or tent. Interior décor varies, with options including lava lamps, hammocks, gnomes, and twinkle lights. Rates start at $50.

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

GRAND MARAIS

Art House B&B (218-370-1625; arthousebb.com), 8 7th Avenue W. This 100-year-old home offers four rooms with private bath. Guests are welcome to use the kitchen, the barbecue grill, and the backyard fire pit. Children 8 and older and well-behaved dogs are welcome. Rates start at $95, with discounts offered for whole-house rentals.

Bally House Bed and Breakfast (218-387-5099; ballyhousebnb.com), 121 E. 3rd Street. Built in 1913, this bed-and-breakfast is full of antiques and furnishings previously belonging to the Bally family, which owned the house for nearly 100 years. There are four rooms, each with private bath. Children 12 and over are welcome. Rates start at $125, with a two-night minimum stay.

Ella’s Inn (218-387-3131), 118 3rd W. Avenue. Four guest rooms with three baths, and guests have access to the kitchen, living room, and dining room as well. The inn is a short walk to the lake, just across the street from the Grand Marais Art Colony and a short walk to the North House Folk School. Students at either of those schools are eligible for a discount. Rates start at $79.

MacArthur House B&B (218-260-6390; macarthurhouse.net), 520 W. 2nd Street. Four rooms and two suites, all with private bath. Some rooms have views of Lake Superior. Children ages 12 and older are welcome, and discounts are available for students at the North House Folk School and the Grand Marais Art Colony. Rates start at $84.

GUNFLINT TRAIL

Poplar Creek Guesthouse B&B (218-388-4487 or 1-800-322-8327; poplarcreekbnb.com), 11 Poplar Creek Drive. Tucked into a peaceful wooded area off the Gunflint Trail, the Poplar Creek Guest House has two guest rooms, each with private bath, and a suite. The rooms are graciously appointed, and they share a common room with kitchenette, fireplace, and private deck. The suite has a private kitchen area as well as deck. Hosts Barbara and Ted have run a bed-and-breakfast in the north woods for many years, and they know exactly how to do it right, especially when it comes to the full breakfast served in the cheerful, welcoming breakfast room. Poplar Creek can also arrange a variety of lodge-to-lodge arrangements (see Green Space and Outdoor Activities). Also available is a year-round yurt (see Tall Pines and Croft Yurts on page 150). Rates start at $135. Packages are available.

Pincushion Trails Inn Bed & Breakfast (218-387-2009; pincushiontrailsinn.com), 968 Gunflint Trail. Pincushion Trails is on 43 acres just 3 miles from Grand Marais and, sitting on the Sawtooth Mountain ridgeline, has impressive views and on-site access to hiking trails. This peaceful inn has four rooms, all with private bath, and a common living area with fireplace. Full breakfast served daily. Children 12 and older are welcome. Rates start at $125.

CABINS, VILLAS, AND TOWNHOUSES

GRAND MARAIS

Cobblestone Cove Villas (218-387-2633 or 1-800-247-6020; cobblestonecove.com), 17 S. Broadway. Located on the harbor, Cobblestone Cove Villas is a newer townhouse property with upscale accommodations within easy walking distance to shops and restaurants. Rates start at $109.

BEARSKIN LODGE

Opel’s Lakeside Cabins (218-663-7971 or 1-800-950-4361; opelslakesidecabins.com), 1593 Croftville Road. Open mid-May–mid-Oct. Opel’s has five cabins available, all directly on the Lake Superior shoreline. The cabins are charming and were recently remodeled, and the viewsand location are hard to beat. Rates start at $110.

GUNFLINT TRAIL

Cross River Lodge (218-388-2233 or 1-866-203-8991; crossriverlodge.com), 196 N. Gunflint Lake Road. Open May–Oct. Cross River Lodge is situated on Gunflint Lake. The property offers two lovely bed-and-breakfast rooms and a suite, each with private bath, and five cabins near or on the lake, with fireplaces, complete kitchens, and decks with barbecues. Rates start at $100.

Bearskin Lodge (218-388-2292 or 1-800-338-4170; bearskin.com), 124 E. Bearskin Road. Located almost 30 miles from Grand Marais on the Gunflint Trail, Bearskin Lodge is a model of peace and retreat. The resort has 11 cabins and four lodges with townhouse accommodations. There’s a hot tub and sauna on-site, and massage can be arranged. During the summer, boats, canoes, and pontoons are available, as well as bikes; children’s naturalist programs can be arranged. Rates start at $156. Specials and packages are available.

Clearwater BWCA Outfitters (218-260-2253; clearwateroutfitters.com), 772 Clearwater Road, Grand Marais. Open May–Oct. This lodge, which has an outfitter on-site (see Green Space and Outdoor Activities) has 12 rustic cabins, plus a suite and three bed-and-breakfast rooms and two suites in the lodge (breakfast served daily for lodge guests only) and five bunkhouses that sleep between six to 10 people. Rates start at $66.

Gunflint Lodge (218-388-2294 or 1-800-328-3325; gunflint.com), 143 S. Gunflint Lake. Gunflint Lodge has 23 cabins of varying amenities, from the more rustic Canoers Cabins (bunk beds, shared bath in a nearby building) to the Romantic Cottages (lakeview cabins with fireplace, hot tub, and full kitchen) to the Gunflint Lake Home (with two to four bedrooms, fireplace, hot tub, and sauna). Three dining rooms on-site offer an alternative to cooking in the cabin (see Where to Eat), and an extensive list of year-round activities includes winter and summer sports, outfitting, canopy tours, horse riding, and massage. Rates start at $150.

HOTELS

GRAND MARAIS

Best Western Plus Superior Inn (218-387-2240 or 1-800-780-7234; bestwestern.com), 104 1st Avenue E. A solid choice for mid-price travelers, the Best Western offers microwaves and refrigerators, and upgraded rooms have fireplaces. Full breakfast is provided each day. There are winter vehicle plug-ins, plus parking for trailers and snowmobiles. Rates start at $125.

THE PATIO AT GUNFLINT LODGE

East Bay Suites (218-387-2800 or 1-800-414-2807; eastbaysuites.com), 21 Wisconsin Street. Located right on Lake Superior, close to restaurants and shops, Easy Bay Suites all have decks or patios overlooking the lake, as well as full kitchens, fireplaces, washers and dryers, and complimentary full breakfast, and complimentary full breakfast. Accommodations vary in size from studio to three-bedroom, with some suites offering bunk beds. Telescopes are available for guests, as well as passes for the YMCA pool and fitness center. Rates start at $107.

GRAND PORTAGE

Naniboujou Lodge (218-387-2688; naniboujou.com), 20 Naniboujou Trail. Open daily from mid-May to late Oct. and specific weekends from Christmas–Mar. Call for specific dates. Naniboujou is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and its colorful history matches its bright interior. Built in the 1920s as a private club for founding members that included Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey, it never reached its potential as the country reached the Depression years. Eventually reborn as a hotel and lodge, Naniboujou has a beautifully decorated great hall, painted in designs reflective of the Cree Indians, that serves as the dining room (see Where to Eat). The rooms are tastefully and comfortably set up, and there are no TVs, telephones, or Wi-Fi in order to preserve the sense of getting away from it all. Rates start at $99.

Grand Portage Lodge & Casino (1-800-543-1384; grandportage.com), 70 Casino Drive. Located just south of the Canadian border, the Grand Portage Lodge has spacious rooms, cabins, a new lodge and a friendly staff ready to help with anything you need. The hotel offers an indoor pool and sauna, a full-service restaurant overlooking Lake Superior, and a seasonal (mid-May–mid-Oct.) RV Park. Rates start at $79. Specials and packages available.

Where To Eat

DINING OUT

GRAND MARAIS

The Crooked Spoon (218-387-2779; crookedspoon cafe.com), 17 W. Wisconsin Street. Open Wed.–Sat. for lunch and dinner. Contemporary American cuisine, presented as dress-up food in a casual atmosphere. Moderate/expensive.

Naniboujou Lodge (218-387-2688; naniboujou.com), 20 Naniboujou Trail. Open daily for all three meals, early May to late Oct. Miniconjou’s major claim to fame—and it alone is worth the visit—is the resplendent public dining room, with its 20-foot domed ceiling, massive stone fireplace, and the vividly painted Cree-themed walls and ceilings. The menu is contemporary American cuisine, with plenty of local ingredients, along with wine and beer. Expensive.

GUNFLINT TRAIL

Justine’s at Gunflint Lodge (218-388-2294; gunflint.com), 143 S. Gunflint Lake. Open daily year-round for all three meals except for a week in Nov. and Apr. The Gunflint Lodge has a beautiful restaurant and bar open to the public, with a stone terrace overlooking the beach outdoors and a massive stone fireplace inside. The food is contemporary American cuisine, often with locally sourced, native ingredients. Expensive.

EATING OUT

GRAND MARAIS

My Sister’s Place (218-387-1915; mysistersplacerestaurant.com), 401 E. MN 61. Open daily for lunch and dinner. More charming on the inside than on the outside, My Sister’s Place has friendly service and solid soups and sandwiches that will satisfy any taste and hunger (including some vegetarian options, such as The Fungi mushroom sandwich and the wild rice burger). Moderate.

THE DINING ROOM AT NANIBOUJOU LODGE

South of the Border Cafe (218-387-1505; facebook.com/South-of-the-Border-Cafe-196159180440215), 4 W. MN 61. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Don’t be confused by the name—the “border” referred to is the Canadian border, not the US–Mexico border. Instead of Mexican food, you’ll find hearty home cooking. Inexpensive.

Dockside Fish Market & Deli (218-387-2906; moreysmarket.com), 418 W. MN 61. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Apr.–Dec. This retail market also has a deli with a limited but delicious menu, including several varieties of fish caught locally. Moderate.

World’s Best Donuts (218-387-1345; worldsbestdonutsmn.com), 10 Wisconsin Street. Open daily at 7 a.m. (the walk-up window opens at 4:30 a.m.), mid-May–mid-Oct. No matter that the name doesn’t seem modest; the doughnuts are truly wonderful. Inexpensive.

Sven & Ole’s (218-387-1713; svenandoles.com), 9 W. Wisconsin Street. Open daily for lunch and dinner. You can’t have a northern Minnesota experience without the quintessential Sven and Ole’s. Contrary to the name, this is no bland Scandinavian fare, but a local pizza haunt with hearty, flavorful pizzas. The menu does include an option for a lutefisk pizza, but unless you have the $1 million in cash that the pizza is priced at, it’s better to order one of the other offerings. Inexpensive.

Angry Trout Cafe (218-387-1265; angrytroutcafe.com), 408 W. MN 61. Open daily for lunch and dinner, late Apr.–mid-Oct. The Angry Trout has indoor or outdoor dining, with a strong focus on local ingredients and sustainability. And be sure to check out the artsy bathrooms. Moderate/expensive.

Gunflint Tavern (218-387-1563; gunflinttavern.com), 111 W. Wisconsin Street. Open daily for lunch and dinner. This cheerful tavern serves up tasty food in enormous portions, a more-than-decent menu of microbrews on tap, including those brewed in the on-site brewery. Live music offered regularly. Many menu items are made with organic and/or local ingredients. Moderate.

GUNFLINT TRAIL

Trail’s End Café (218-388-2212), 12582 Gunflint Trail. Open daily for all three meals, mid-May–mid-Oct. Trail’s End serves basic but hearty meals, including burgers, sandwiches, and pizzas. The knotty pine interior fits well with the wooded wonderland outside. Inexpensive.

Entertainment

Grand Marais Playhouse (218-387-1284; grandmaraisplayhouse.com), 51 5th Street. The playhouse runs local theatrical productions periodically during the year, primarily in the summer and during the pre-Christmas season.

Selective Shopping

Drury Lane Books (218-387-3370; drurylanebooks.indielite.org), 12 E. Wisconsin Street, Grand Marais. Open Mon.–Sat. This shop is small, but it has an excellent selection of books for all your North Shore needs, whether escapist fiction or local information. Authors frequently make appearances, and writing workshops are occasionally offered.

Beth’s Fudge & Gifts (218-387-2081; facebook.com/BethsFudge), 11 S. Broadway, Grand Marais. Open daily. If the doughnuts and pie in Grand Marais haven’t satisfied your sweets craving, Beth’s Fudge will. Creamy, smooth, and very much a treat.

Lake Superior Trading Post (218-387-2020; lakesuperiortradingpost.com), 10 1st Avenue W., Grand Marais. Open daily. Part souvenir shop, part outfitter for rural experiences, the trading post is staffed with friendly people who know their stock. The log cabin construction gives it a northwoods feel, and Lake Superior is right outside the door.

Gunflint Mercantile (218-387-9228; gunflintmercantile.com), 12 1st Avenue W. Open daily. A food store for backpackers and general visitors alike. Come in for the free fudge sample, view the extensive supply of lightweight foods for the trail, and then stay for the coffee and soup.

Sivertson Gallery (218-387-2491; sivertson.com), 14 W. Wisconsin Street. Open daily. A popular art gallery focused on regional artists, including Canadian First Nation and Native American art.

Yellow Bird Fine Art (218-370-0476; yellowbirdfineart.com), 101 W. MN 61. Open daily in summer, Fri.–Sat. winters. Contemporary art in the forms of paintings, sculptures, and jewelry.

Special Events

July: Grand Marais Arts Festival (218-387-2737; grandmaraisartcolony.org), Grand Marais. A juried art show held annually in mid-July.

North Shore Dragon Boat Festival, Grand Marais. This newer festival is a great excuse to hang out along Grand Marais’s harbor and enjoy the sight of vividly painted dragon boats being rowed by ambitious oarsmen (and women) in a series of races.

September–October: Art Along the Lake Fall Studio Tour (facebook.com/artalongthelake). A tour of artist studios along Lake Superior’s northern end, including stops in Lutsen, Grand Marais, Grand Portage, and Thunder Bay, Ontario. (Note: If you venture into Canada, you’ll need to present your passport for reentry into the United States.)

October: Moose Madness (218-387-2524; visitcookcounty.com/event/moose-madness), Grand Marais. Always held the third weekend in Oct., the same weekend when schools are closed for the annual statewide teachers’ convention, this festival has contests, moose tours, a treasure hunt, and moose essay- and poetry-writing contests.