South of Grand Marais, MN 61 connects with MN 1, a brief stretch of highway that moves inland from Lake Superior to Ely, a gateway city into the Boundary Waters. Ely is a tourist town, and one well prepared for the outdoors enthusiasts who flock through the area each year.
A car is pretty much a necessity, and if you’re planning on venturing into the Boundary Waters, it’s strongly recommended to purchase the Superior National Forest Visitor Map. Published by the USDA in conjunction with Superior National Forest, this is an incredibly detailed map of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). It wouldn’t hurt to buy a magnifying glass with which to read it. The BWCAW is full of trails that don’t appear on most state maps, and it’s easy to get lost unless you’re very familiar with the area. The map is available in a sturdy, waterproof plastic version for about $10. Many local gas stations and convenience stores sell it, or contact the Superior National Forest headquarters in Duluth (218-626-4300) for information on ordering one.
To See and Do
Dorothy Molter Museum (218-365-4451; rootbeerlady.com), 2002 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily May–Oct. Arrangements for winter tours can be made by calling the museum phone number. Adults $7; seniors $6.50; children 6–17 $4.50; children under 6, veterans and active military members, and museum members free. This is a loving tribute to the last living person in the Boundary Waters. Dorothy Molter lived a great deal of her adult life in a cabin in the BWCAW, and even when the US government evicted other tenants when declaring the area a wilderness, she was granted lifetime tenancy. During her many years in her rustic cabin, she brewed homemade root beer for boaters and anglers coming through her area, earning the nickname “the root beer lady.” After her death, her log cabin was painstakingly disassembled and reassembled on the east edge of Ely and turned into a museum. The cabin is crammed full of Dorothy’s things, and the adjacent gift shop sells books about her as well as cases of root beer (worth the purchase). The only downside is the noise of traffic from nearby MN 169, which can make visitors (this one, at least) wonder why they couldn’t have sited the museum just a bit farther down the road in an effort to recapture something more similar to the peace of nature enjoyed by Molter.
TED THE BEAR, AT THE NORTH AMERICAN BEAR CENTER
DOROTHY MOLTER’S CABIN
The International Wolf Center (218-365-4695; wolf.org), 1396 MN 169, Ely. Open daily mid-May–mid-Aug. and Fri.–Sun. from mid-Aug.–mid-May. Adults $14; senior citizens $12; children 4–12 $8; children under 4 and museum members free. Internationally renowned for wolf education and information, the center tries to address public fears and concerns about wolf behaviors through press relations and public visits. The center has hands-on exhibits and Wolf Cams allowing visitors to watch wolves from a great distance; they also coordinate learning vacations that bring visitors into the wilderness to meet “ambassador” wolves.
North American Bear Center (218-365-7879 or 877-365-7879; bear.org), 1926 MN 169, Ely. Open daily May–Oct. (year-round for pre-reserved groups). Adults and teens $13; senior citizens 60 and older and military members $12; children 3–12 $8; children under 3 and members free. One mile west of Ely is this center, similar in intent to the International Wolf Center. Visitors can learn more about bears through videos and exhibits, then watch the bears in their 2-acre habitat from a viewing deck.
Soudan Underground Mine (218-300-7000; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks), 1302 McKinley Park Road, Soudan. Open daily Memorial Day–Labor Day. Admission to the grounds is free; guided tours are $15 for adults; $10 for children 5–12; and free for children under 5. The Soudan Mine gives visitors insight into the daily life of miners in this once-operational mine. Adventurous tourists can take the tour, which carries them 27 stories beneath the ground. (Note that extensive walking is required, including through confined areas.) Those who don’t wish to go below can wander the grounds for free. The scenery from the hillside mine is breathtaking, particularly during fall foliage season.
Green Space and Outdoor Activities
BOUNDARY WATERS The Boundary Waters is an amazing natural preserve within Superior National Forest, encompassing more than a million acres of woods and at least 2,500 of Minnesota’s famed lakes, teeming with wildlife. It is largely meant to be explored as explorers of old traveled: by canoe, with backpack and tent. While a few areas have opened up to motorized vehicles, the beauty of this area is the peacefulness caused by the lack of motors, allowing visitors to hear the myriad bird calls, wolf howls, and the sound of water and wind.
It is possible to day trip in the Boundary Waters, or least along the edges, by starting from Ely or the Gunflint Trail (see page 139). More ambitious travelers may want to portage in with canoes and set up camp. Experienced canoers and campers can plot their routes, but if you’re fairly new to this type of adventure, you might consider working with an outfitter. There are several in the Ely area, including Piragis Northwoods Company (see Selective Shopping).
Be aware that visitors to the Boundary Waters, except for day-only visitors, need to reserve a permit ahead of time. Your outfitter can do this for you, or you can contact Reserve America (1-877-444-6777; recreation.gov). Permits for camping visitors are required in order to limit the number of entrances each day into the BWCAW, an effort made to keep the wilderness, well, wild.
BOAT AT BURNTSIDE LAKE
LAKE VERMILION STATE PARK
Lake Vermilion State Park (dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks), Soudan. This is Minnesota’s newest state park, and it was combined with the adjacent Soudan Underground Mine (see To See and Do). The 3,000-acre tract has 10 miles of shoreline along Lake Vermilion, along with areas of massive rocky areas that are billions of years old. Hiking trails to the highest point in the park will afford views for miles in every direction on a clear day.
DOGSLEDRIDING Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge (1-877-753-3386; dogsledding.com), 1101 Ring Rock Road, Ely. With more than 40 years of dogsled adventures under their belt, the proprietors of the Wintergreen Dogsled Lodge know a thing or two about taking visitors on a dogsled trip, whether it’s first-timers or seasoned sledders. Trips can be arranged with stays at the lodge itself, just east of Ely, as lodge-to-lodge treks or as camping excursions. Multiple-night or one-day-only trips available. Special opportunities include parent-daughter trips and photography workshops.
Lodging
Not surprisingly, the Boundary Waters area is surrounded by countless places to stay, everything from rustic mom-and-pop resorts to more elaborate, deluxe accommodations. What follows is a sample of recommended places, which also represents the diverse offerings available.
BED-AND-BREAKFASTS 
A Stay Inn Ely (218-365-6010; jaspercompany.com/locations/jasper-inn), 112 W. Sheridan Street, Ely. This charming three-story bed-and-breakfast has newly remodeled rooms, all with private bath, and a large common area with full kitchen. Kids (and adults!) who like hideaways will particularly enjoy staying in the Indigo Room, an attic room tucked under a slanted roof. Each room is paneled with a different kind of locally harvested wood. Rates start at $80.
Blue Heron Bed & Breakfast (218-365-3223; blueheronbnb.com), 827 Kawishiwi Trail, Ely. Five beautifully decorated rooms, some with exposed log walls, make up this charming bed-and-breakfast. Rooms come with private baths, lake views, full breakfast, use of canoes or snowshoes, and use of the sauna. Rates start at $148.
THE GATHERING ROOM AT A STAY IN ELY
CABINS Timber Trail Lodge (218-365-4879 or 1-800-777-7348; timbertrail.com), 629 Kawishiwi Trail, Ely. Timber Trail has 16 cabins ranging from one to six bedrooms as well as four motel units with kitchenettes. The resort can arrange boat rentals and guides, massage is offered on-site, and once-weekly float plane rides are offered to guests. Rates start at $95. Specials and packages are available.
Tall Pines and Croft Yurts (1-800-322-8327; poplarcreekbnb.com), 11 Poplar Creek Drive, Boundary Waters. For a true wilderness experience, the Tall Pines and Croft Yurts are open year-round for summer or winter adventures. Four people can sleep on bunk beds or a futon, although additional bedding can be provided for more guests. A fully equipped kitchen is included; an outhouse is steps away, as well as a complimentary canoe. Rates start at $95.
Silver Rapids Lodge (218-365-4877 or 1-800-950-9425; silverrapidslodge.com), 459 Kawishiwi Trail. This hundred-year-old resort is located on a private peninsula with water on three side. It offers lakeside cabins, motel suites, and campgrounds. Some cabins have fireplaces, whirlpools, saunas, decks, and private fire pits. There are private hiking and cross-country ski trails on the grounds. A restaurant is open during the summer, and the lounge is open year-round. Rates start at $59. Packages and specials are available.
Log Cabin Hideaways (218-365-6045; logcabinhideaways.com), 1321 N. County Route 21, Ely. For those truly wanting the wilderness experience, Log Cabin Hideaways provides hand-hewn log cabins on the edge of the BWCAW. Each cabin comes with a canoe, but no electricity or indoor plumbing. Propane is provided for cooking; all units have a Finnish sauna. Some of the cabins are accessible by water only. None of the cabins have “neighbors”; each cabin is on its own secluded site. Rates start at $155.
Timber Bay Lodge & Houseboats (218-827-3682; timberbay.com), 8347 Timber Bay Road, Babbitt. Located along Birch Lake, Timber Bay has log-sided cabins and houseboats for rental. Cabins are widely spaced for maximum privacy and include decks, fireplaces, and barbecue grills. Most cabins have two or three bedrooms, but there’s also a six-bedroom unit available. There are several houseboats available for rental, ranging from 30- to 52-feet in size and holding two to 12 people. The resort offers children’s and naturalist programs. Rates start at $305. Packages and specials are available.
Burntside Lodge (218-365-3894; burntside.com), 2755 Burntside Lodge Road, Ely. Open mid-May to late Sept. West of Ely, on Burntside Lake, Burntside Lodge has been offering gracious hospitality to guests for nearly a century, and it’s arguably one of Minnesota’s most famous accommodations. The resort offers several cabins in varying sizes, all tucked into the woods or near the lake; the peaceful ambience is assisted by the lack of TVs and telephones. The lodge itself is on the National Register of Historic Places, and its dining room (see Where to Eat) serves delicious food in a large, open room. The adjoining gift shop has several items of local interest. Rates start at $195.
River Point Resort (1-800-456-5580; riverpointresort.com), 12007 River Point Road. Open mid-May–early Oct. A peaceful resort on a private peninsula along Birch Lake and the South Kawishiwi River. The resort offers several cabins, villas, and chalets that offer private sundecks and private entrances along with lake, river, and forest views. A sauna is on-site for guests, and boat rental is offered, as well as guided day and overnight BWCAW trips. Rates startat $150. Specials and packages are available.
BURNTSIDE LODGE
HOTELS Grand Ely Lodge (218-365-6565 or 1-800-365-5070; grandelylodge.com), 400 N. Pioneer Road, Ely. Just outside of the city of Ely is this resort, the largest in Ely, with 61 rooms and suites (and ice-fishing houses for day occupancy in the winter). The resort is very family friendly, with kids under 10 staying and eating free with paid adults. There’s an indoor pool and sauna, and lake activities are provided at the marina on Shagawa Lake. The Evergreen Restaurant is open all day; there’s also a lounge. Mountain bikes are available to guests who want to use the Trezona Trail across the street, which connects to the International Wolf Center (see To See and Do). Rates start at $140. Specials and packages are available.
Adventure Inn (218-365-3140; adventureinn-ely.com), 1145 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Right in the heart of downtown Ely, the Adventure Inn is a small but charming motel with economy and standard/deluxe rooms, which are clean and comfortable; several of the rooms boast handmade quilts. The hotel is a member of Green America and the Green Hotels Association. Rates start at $105.
Fortune Bay Resort Casino (218-753-6400 or 1-800-555-1714; fortunebay.com), 1430 Bois Forte Road, Tower. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, this newer resort and casino is on Lake Vermilion and offers attractive rooms and suites, an indoor pool, dining room, 24-hour casino, RV park, and golf course. An on-site marina has fishing boats, pontoons, canoes, and paddleboats available for rent, or you can bring your own boat and dock it at the marina. Non-motorized rentals are free for hotel guests, including paddleboards, kayaks, hydro bikes, and mountain bikes. Rates start at $89. Specials and packages are available.
Where to Eat
DINING OUT The Ely Steak House (218-365-7412; elysteakhouse.com), 216 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Steakhouse and bar with fresh fish specials, prime rib on weekends, and steak whenever you like. Expensive.
Burntside Lodge (218-365-3894; burntside.com), 2755 Burntside Lodge Road, Ely. Open Wed.–Mon. for dinner, mid-Apr. to late Sept. One of the nicest restaurants in the Ely area is in this historic lodge (see Lodging), just west of Ely. The dining room serves ambitious fare focused on seasonal specialties, while the adjacent bar has a more casual atmosphere and menu. Reservations required. Expensive.
Evergreen Restaurant (218-365-6565; grandelylodge.com/restaurant-bar/evergreen-restaurant), 400 N. Pioneer Road, Ely. Open daily for all three meals. Located within the Grand Ely Lodge, Evergreen offers upscale supper club food in both hearty and smaller portions. You can’t go wrong with any of the steaks, or the Shore Lunch Bluegill Dinner. Moderate/expensive.
EATING OUT Insula Restaurant (218-365-4855; insularestaurant.com), 145 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open Tues.–Sat. for all three meals, Sun. for brunch. This eatery is heavily focused on local and sustainable, and its varied menu highlights Minnesota wild rice, berries, maple syrup, and locally grown meats and fish. The menu is creative and thoughtful, and while it’s fairly meat-heavy, vegetarians aren’t given short shrift: try the Forager Burger, made with smoked sweet potato, mushrooms, and a bean patty, or the Mock Duck Pot Pie. Moderate.
Rockwood Bar & Grill (218-365-7772; rockwoodely.com), 302 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily for lunch and dinner. A northwoods-themed restaurant with enormous sandwiches and salads, as well as steak and walleye (combined, they’re called Woods and Water). Moderate.
Gator’s Grilled Cheese Emporium (218-365-7348; gatorsinely.com), 955 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open Mon.–Sat. for breakfast and lunch. Grilled cheese takes on a wider meaning in this amiable eatery with a huge menu of grilled sandwiches that involve cheese as well as a hearty breakfast menu. If you’re up for a challenge, try The Mutt: pulled ham and chicken, smoked turkey, prime rib, bacon, mac and cheese, and a fried egg, all between two grilled cheese sandwiches. Besides winning a prize if you finish it by yourself, Gator’s donates money to local animal shelters for each Mutt consumed. Inexpensive (except for The Mutt, which is moderate).
Sir G’s (218-365-3688; sirgs.com), 520 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Italian food, including pasta made on-site. Inexpensive/moderate.
Front Porch Coffee and Tea (218-365-2326; elysfrontporch.com), 343 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. A cozy, inviting coffeehouse with a limited but tasty menu of soups, sandwiches, burritos, and pastries. Inexpensive/moderate.
Boathouse Brewpub and Restaurant (218-365-4301; boathousebrewpub.com), 47 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily for lunch and dinner. A cheerful pub with an in-house brewery and typical bar food—burgers and sandwiches—and walleye (walleye grilled cheese, anybody?), the Minnesota staple. Moderate.
Selective Shopping
Ely has several blocks of shops with a good variety of merchandise, from regular tourist things like shirts and mugs to specialty items and artwork.
Brandenburg Gallery (218-365-6563 or 1-877-493-8017; jimbrandenburg.com), 11 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily. The gallery showcases the award-winning nature photography of Jim Brandenburg, who has traveled the world for National Geographic and who has a special love for the Boundary Waters area (he makes it his home part of the year).
Wintergreen Designs (218-365-6602 or 1-844-359-6233; wintergreennorthernwear.com), 205 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily. Specialists in high-quality and attractive outdoor apparel, Wintergreen produces its work in Ely and sells it at this local retail store (another store is open in Duluth).
Piragis Northwoods Company (218-365-6745 or 1-800-223-6565; piragis.com), 105 N. Central Avenue, Ely. Open daily. This large outfitting shop sells and/or rents all manner of outdoor gear, including canoes and camping gear. Piragis also offers guided canoeing and camping trips in the BWCAW.
Steger Mukluks & Moccasins (218-365-6634; mukluks.com), 33 E. Sheridan Street, Ely. Open daily. Inspired by Native American designs, these mukluks and moccasins are made in Ely from moose hide and are highly regarded for their comfort and winter protection.
Legacy Toys (218-249-0263; legacytoys.com), 5 N. Central Avenue, Ely. Open Mon.–Sat. A cheerful toy store offering a wide variety of toys for all ages, as well as its own candy and a 400-gallon saltwater aquarium.
Mealey’s Gift & Sauna Shop (218-365-3639; mealeysinely.com), 124 N. Central Avenue, Ely. Open daily. Mealey’s is exactly what its name describes: a one-stop shop with saunas and sauna accessories, but also high-quality gift and home décor items.
Special Events
February: Ely Winter Festival (218-365-7669; elywinterfestival.com), Ely. It’s never too cold for a festival, as this annual midwinter event shows. Snow-sculpting lessons and contests, Nordic ski racing, the Mukluk Ball, snowshoe tours, snowmobile races, and musical concerts are all part of the fun during the 10-day event.
July: Blueberry Arts Festival (218-365-6123 or 1-800-777-7281; ely.org), Ely. Annual three-day arts fair held in late July.
September: Harvest Moon Festival (218-365-6123 or 1-800-777-7281; ely.org), Ely. This annual September festival includes three days of art and craft exhibits, children’s activities, live musical performances, and food.