Along the border between Minnesota and South Dakota, from the Iowa border north, is an area known as the Coteau des Prairie. It’s the remnant of many glacial movements and retreats. The highest part of the coteau in Minnesota is known as Buffalo Ridge, an area around Lake Benson and Pipestone with a bedrock of shale, sandstone, and clay that has settled over Sioux quartzite before being covered by layers of glacial drift. As opposed to other parts of Minnesota, which have dramatic hills and valleys covered with trees, the Coteau des Prairie has long, sloping hills that were once covered with tall grass prairie. Today most of that natural prairie growth has given way to agricultural endeavors, with long stretches of soybean and cornfields. However, in the farthest southwest corner, there are still some natural prairie areas remaining or are in the process of being cultivated again. It’s a unique kind of beauty. As Minnesota poet and essayist Bill Holm said in his essay “Horizontal Grandeur”: “A woods man looks at twenty miles of prairie and sees nothing but grass, but a prairie man looks at a square foot and sees a universe; ten or twenty flowers and grasses, heights, heads, colors, shades, configurations, bearded, rough, smooth, simple, elegant. When a cloud passes over the sun, colors shift, like a child’s kaleidoscope.” Taking the time to explore this part of the state, less traveled than other areas, is a richly rewarding experience full of natural beauty, wide-open skies, wildlife, rivers, Native American sites, and the slowly returning prairie.
There are also several worthwhile communities to visit. Luverne, a town of about 4,600 people, is the county seat for Rock County. From a tourist’s perspective, though, it’s representative of what most people dream of when they envision small-town America: a walkable downtown with historic buildings, quiet residential streets with charming Victorian homes and cottages, and a pride of place and history. Perhaps its biggest claim to fame is being one of the four towns profiled in Ken Burns’ landmark documentary, The War. The documentary interviewed several residents of Luverne, all World War II veterans, including fighter pilot Quentin Aanenson, for whom the local airport is named.
THE INGALLS’ FAMILY DUGOUT SITE AT PLUM CREEK
Pipestone, a town rich in Native American and quarrying history, is named after the red stone called pipestone, or catlinite, after the artist and writer George Catlin, who visited the area first in 1836, sketching it and recording the local legends. The community was further memorialized by poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s “Song of Hiawatha,” although Longfellow never actually traveled to Pipestone. The pipestone was, and still is, central to Native American ceremonial rites. They quarried it to create pipes and have been recorded doing so by Lewis and Clark in the early 1800s. (See “Pipestone National Monument” on page 302 for more details.)
THE SANBORN SOD HOUSE
A few miles north on US 75 is Lake Benton, located on the shores of Lake Benton and in the valley of the Buffalo Ridge. Around Lake Benton you’ll see a number of wind turbines. These turbines take advantage of the rolling prairie land, relatively unobstructed by forest, to collect wind power. There are more than 600 of these turbines in operation, generating enough power to provide electricity to hundreds, even thousands, of homes.
One of the biggest draws in southwestern Minnesota is the Laura Ingalls Wilder Historic Highway and the connection to Laura Ingalls Wilder and her pioneer family and friends. A trip along this road (which primarily remains on US 14 in Minnesota but occasionally traverses county routes) and through Walnut Grove, Tracy, and Sanborn will take you back in time to the days of the Ingalls and the life they made here in the 1870s.
THE LAKE BENTON HOUSE BED & BREAKFAST
To See and Do
MUSEUMS AND HISTORIC SITES 
Heritage Center and Wind Power Learning Center (507-368-9577), 108 S. Center Street, Lake Benton. Open Mon.–Fri. Admission free. The center offers changing exhibits that illustrate how the wind power is collected and how it’s used, along with displays examining the history of the Lake Benton area.
LAURA INGALLS WILDER HISTORIC HIGHWAY
Laura Ingalls Wilder Museum (507-528-7280 or 507-859-2358; walnutgrove.org), 330 8th Street, Walnut Grove. Open daily Apr.–Oct. Admission ages 13 and older $10; ages 5–12 $4; under 4 free. The museum covers two different eras: that of Wilder’s family’s stay in the region back in the 1800s, and that of the popular 1970s TV series based on her life. The displays are fun and informative for visitors who are either general history buffs or fans of the Little House books. There are some items (including photos and a quilt sewn by Laura and her daughter, Rose) that either belonged to Laura herself or to friends and family (although serious Wilder buffs will note that most of the displays are replicas or photos from the Missouri Wilder museum), several exhibits related to the time period itself, and artifacts from the TV series.
INSIDE THE LAURA INGALLS WILDER MUSEUM
Ingalls Dugout Site (507-528-7280 or 507-859-2358; walnutgrove.org), 13501 County Route 5, Walnut Grove. Open daylight hours May–Oct., weather permitting. Admission $5 per car or $30 per bus. Along the banks of Plum Creek is this dugout home, where the Ingalls family lived from 1874 to 1876 before selling it after several crop failures and moving to Iowa. The Ingalls’s ownership was discovered by the books’ illustrator, Garth Williams, who informed the owners of the historic nature of their property. There’s not necessarily a lot to see here; the original sod house disintegrated decades ago, leaving behind a depression in the ground, yet for Ingalls fans, it’s as worthy a stop as the museum. The site is scenic, picnic tables are available, and visitors can wade into Plum Creek and look for minnows, just like Laura and Mary did.
Sod House on the Prairie (507-723-5138; sodhouse.org), 12598 Magnolia Avenue, Sanborn. Open sunrise to sunset, spring–fall. Admission $4; ages 6 and under free. No credit or debit cards accepted, so bring cash. Laura Ingalls Wilder may not have lived here, but this is the perfect pairing with the dugout site. This replica home site includes a sod home, dugout, and log cabin; the “soddie” was built in the style of Laura’s day with 2-foot-thick walls and lumber roof and floor, as opposed to the dugout, which has a dirt floor and roof.
THE INTERIOR OF THE SANBORN SOD HOUSE
Wheels Across the Prairie Museum (507-626-1949; wheelsacrosstheprairie.org), 3297 US 14, Tracy. Open weekends mid-May–Jun., Oct., and Nov.; Wed.–Sun. from Jun.–Sept. Admission $6 for 13 and over; $2 for 12 and under. Essentially a pioneer museum, Wheels Across the Prairie includes several vintage buildings, such as a one-room schoolhouse, Episcopal church, log cabin, and train depot. Tracy is the small-town Laura Ingalls Wilder visited on her first train trip, so the railway exhibit is of particular interest.
LUVERNE
Rock County Courthhouse/Veterans Memorial (507-283-5020), 204 E. Brown Street. Open Mon.–Fri. The community’s respect for its veterans is evident in the Rock County Veterans Memorial, on the grounds of the beautiful Rock County Courthouse. The courthouse, built in 1888 of Sioux quartzite, is on the National Register of Historic Places.
Rock County History Center (507-283-2122; rockcountyhistorical.com), 312 Main Street. Open Tues.–Sat. No admission fee, but donations welcome. A fairly new museum built to showcase and maintain artifacts from the area’s pioneer days and more recent history.
Hinkly House (507-283-4061; rockcountyhistorical.com), 217 N. Freeman Avenue. Open Thurs. Jun.–Aug. No admission fee. Originally built by the town’s mayor, the Hinkly House is a lovely Sioux quartzite building from 1892 and is on the National Register of Historic Places.
Brandenburg Gallery (507-283-1884 or 1-888-283-4061; jimbrandenburg.com), 213 E. Luverne Street. Open Mon.–Sat. Internationally renowned nature photographer Jim Brandenburg, a Luverne native and National Geographer photographer, has a gallery of his works for viewing and for sale here, with a focus on the prairie lands around Luverne. He is also one of the founders of the Brandenburg Prairie Foundation and the Touch the Sky Prairie Project (see Green Space and Outdoor Activities).
PIPESTONE
Pipestone Commercial Historic District (507-825-3316; pipestoneminnesota.com). This stretch in the downtown area of Pipestone contains 30 buildings and is listed in its entirety on the National Register of Historic Places. An easy walk of about 12 blocks, mostly along Main Street and N. Hiawatha Avenue, will take you past the towering stone buildings, each with its year of construction at the top, and sometimes the name of the original owner. The buildings are striking not just for their days-gone-by architecture, but also because of the distinctive red stone used to build them. Most of the building took place in the 1890s after railroad service was established. Of particular note is the use of Sioux quartzite in 17 of the buildings.
THE HINKLY HOUSE
HISTORIC DOWNTOWN PIPESTONE
Pipestone County Museum (507-825-2563; pipestonecountymuseum.com), 113 S. Hiawatha Avenue. Open Mon.–Sat. Admission $3 for non-museum members. This lovely, elaborate building was once the imposing city hall and now houses the historical museum. Check with the museum for its special events.
Syndicate Block (507-825-3316; pipestoneminnesota.com), 201–205 W. Main Street. This block holds the oldest and largest of the Sioux quartzite buildings. Originally containing a post office and meat market, the block is now mostly filled with retail and offices.
Moore Block (507-825-3316; pipestoneminnesota.com), 102 E. Main Street. This smaller Sioux quartzite building is distinguished by the work of Leon Moore, an amateur sculptor who created the gargoyles and biblical scenes on the building’s exterior.
WORTHINGTON
Pioneer Village (507-376-4431; noblescountyhistory.org), 1600 Stower Drive. Open Tues.–Sun. Memorial Day–Labor Day. Admission $6 adults; $1 ages 6–15; free for under 6 and 90 and over. Located on the county fairgrounds, this village is one of the largest collections of pioneer buildings in the state and a fascinating place to visit. There are nearly 50 items of interest, including an early hospital, millinery shop, gas station, farmhouse, and sod house (the last constructed in the 1970s as a replica). Guided tours can be arranged, but brochures allow easy self-guiding. Picnic tables are available.
PIPESTONE NATIONAL MONUMENT
Pipestone National Monument is a significant historic and cultural site. The red pipestone, so called because its primary use is to be carved into ceremonial pipe bowls, has been quarried by Native Americans since at least the 17th century, and the quarry is viewed as a sacred site. The pipes from this quarry were highly acclaimed across the United States, and the land that produced it was, for the most part, neutral territory for different tribes because of the symbolic power of the site. Today the only quarrying allowed is by Native Americans, a right they retained when they sold the land to the US government in 1937. A comprehensive visitor center details the significance and history of the area, and there are locally made pipestone products in the gift shop. During the summer months, visitors can watch as quarrying takes place. Hiking the Circle Trail, a 0.75-mile walk from the visitor center, provides beautiful views of quartzite, as well as native prairie grasses. Other points of interest include Winnewissa Falls and the Oracle, a naturally occurring stone face that Native Americans believe to be a sentient being.
Pipestone National Monument (507-825-5464; nps.gov/pipe), US 75, Pipestone. Open daily. Admission free at the time of this writing; the National Parks Service had suspended admission fees while studying the fee structure. Check with the NPS to see if fees have been reinstated. 
PIPESTONE NATIONAL MONUMENT
Green Space and Outdoor Activities
Touch the Sky Prairie (507-283-4061; facebook.com/touchtheskyprairie), 171st Street, Luverne. Nature photographer Jim Brandenburg (see Brandenburg Gallery in To See and Do) started the Brandenburg Prairie Foundation in 1999 to purchase, along with the US Fish and Wildlife Service, more than 800 acres of land northwest of Luverne and developed a long-term plan to return the prairie lands to their original state. Visitors to the site will get a glimpse of what real prairies looked like when the pioneers arrived so many years ago and experience just how beautiful a native prairie can be.
BLUE MOUNDS STATE PARK
Blue Mounds State Park (507-283-6050; dnr.state.mn.us/state_parks/blue_mounds), 1410 161st Street, Luverne. Open daily. $7 day pass ($35 for annual state parks pass). This 1,800-acre park sits above surrounding farmland by virtue of a natural pedestal of Sioux quartzite. The Blue Mounds, named after its blue appearance to westward-moving settlers, is a 1,250-foot-long stretch of rock that runs in an east–west direction and is thought to have been placed by early Dakota. Interesting fact about the rock: Each year on the spring and autumn equinoxes, the sunrise happens right on the east end and the sunset on the west end. Deer, coyote, and numerous birds reside here and can be seen by visitors.
The park is an excellent place to immerse yourself in the loveliness of the prairie, especially midsummer, when the wildflowers are in full bloom. Thirteen miles of hiking trails wander deep into the prairie, and in some of the lower stretches hikers will find themselves threading a narrow path surrounded by wildflowers nearly 6 feet tall on either side. Bikers have access to 2 miles of paved trails as well. Rock climbing is available, as are swimming and camping. Don’t miss the bison viewing stand—the park is home to a herd of bison that peacefully roams a large, fenced space.
Lodging
BED-AND-BREAKFASTS
LAKE BENTON
Benton House Bed & Breakfast (507-368-9484), 211 W. Benton Street. If you’re looking for a cozy, romantic escape, this Italianate Victorian charmer on the edge of town has three rooms, each with private bath. A full breakfast is included. Rates start at $79.
Wooden Diamond Bed & Breakfast (507-368-4305; facebook.com/BandJVollmer), 1593 Shady Shore Drive. Just outside the city is the Wooden Diamond, which doesn’t have any Victorian charm—but its location on the shores of Lake Benton more than makes up for it. There’s just one suite, with private entrance. Full breakfast included. Rates start at $79.
WORTHINGTON
Historic Dayton House Bed & Breakfast (507-727-1311; daytonhouse.org), 1311 4th Avenue. This grand home in Worthington was owned by three prominent families in succession, including the Dayton family (eventually of department store fame, with the Dayton’s chain later sold to Marshall Fields, and then to Macy’s; the family also founded Target stores). A local historic group took over the restoration of the building with excellent results, and there are now two plush suites available. Both have private baths, sitting areas, antique furnishings, and flat-screen TVs. A better-than-average continental breakfast is served daily. Rates start at $145.
HOTELS
LAURA INGALLS WILDER HISTORIC HIGHWAY
Wilder Inn (507-629-3350), 1000 Craig Avenue, Tracy. Bare-bones motel that serves its basic purpose just fine. Rates start at $59.
INNS
PIPESTONE
Historic Calumet Inn (507-825-5871; calumetinn.com), 104 W. Main Street. Built in direct response to the needs of travelers arriving with the new railroad, the Calumet has suffered its share of tragedies (fire on more than one occasion) over the decades. At one point, the hotel was in such disrepair that it was closed, but in 1979 it was purchased and renovated. Today it offers 36 guest rooms furnished with period antiques, and some rooms have amenities like whirlpools. There’s also a lounge and pub (see Where to Eat). Rates start at $45.
Where to Eat
DINING OUT
LAKE BENTON
Knotty Pine Supper Club (507-548-3781; theknottypinesupperclub.com), 1014 County Route 10, Elkton, SD. Open Wed.–Sun. for dinner. Old-fashioned American supper club menu with rib eye, prime rib (on weekends), walleye, shrimp, chicken, and ribs. Moderate.
The Country House Supper Club (507-368-4223; facebook.com/Country-House-Supper-Club-591858510905189), 405 E. Benton Street. Open Thurs.–Sun. for dinner. Steaks, walleye, shrimp, broasted chicken, and combo platters. Inexpensive/moderate.
PIPESTONE
Stonehouse Supper Club (507-562-2580; stonehousepipestone.com), 123 W. Main Street. Open daily for lunch and dinner. A bit more upscale than the other local supper clubs, Stonehouse has a full range of steaks along with walleye and shrimp, but it also has a charcuterie board, flatbreads, sandwiches, and a local specialty known as chislic—barbecued beef bites. Inexpensive/moderate.
EATING OUT
LAURA INGALLS WILDER HISTORIC HIGHWAY
Nellie’s Café (507-859-2384; facebook.com/Nellies-Cafe), 550 US 14, Walnut Grove. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Hearty breakfasts, soups, and sandwiches. Inexpensive.
PIPESTONE
Calumet Inn (507-825-5871; calumetinn1888.com), 104 W. Main Street. Open Mon.–Sat. for all three meals, Sun. for breakfast and lunch. Located in the Historic Calumet Inn (see Lodging). This restaurant has a few steaks on the menu, but is more focused on sandwiches and salads. Inexpensive/moderate.
Lange’s Café (507-825-4488; facebook.com/Langes-Cafe -1485911208345597), 110 SE 8th Avenue. Open 24/7. Serves homecooked meals, including the usual sandwiches and soups, but also some supper club offerings, including steak and broasted chicken, as well as pasta. Be sure to save room for pie; it’s what Lange’s is famous for. Inexpensive/moderate.
JEFFERS PETROGLYPHS
The petroglyphs are southwest of the Laura Ingalls Wilder Historic Highway, but they’re well worth the slight detour. Thought to date from 3000 BC to possibly as recently as the mid-1700s, there are more than 2,000 Native American carvings found across the islands of rock that appear throughout the prairie grasses. Two separate trails visit the glyphs, both starting at the visitor center, one only 0.5 mile round-trip, the other slightly over a mile. Interpreters are available to explain the significance of the glyphs, which have a wide range of subject matter and meaning; humans, arrows, elk, buffalo, deer, and turtles are just some of the identifiable figures. The glyphs detail the history of the region and the people, identifying important events and sacred ceremonies. Native Americans still come today for religious visits. Note: For best viewing, visit early or late in the day—the midday sunlight can make it harder to see the glyphs.
It’s not the just historic or spiritual aspects that make this a worthy visit. The landscape is striking: pink quartzite, prairie grasses, prickly pear cactus, and dozens of wildflowers surround the site. In the northern reaches, areas of buffalo rubs can be seen where migrating bison would stop to rub their coats against the rocks, eventually leaving a glossy surface. Take some time after visiting the glyphs to admire the rest of the scenery.
Jeffers Petroglyphs (507-628-5991; mnhs.org/jefferspetroglyphs), 27160 County Route 60, Comfrey. Open Wed.–Mon. from Memorial Day–Labor Day; Sat. the rest of Sept.; groups by appointment through the end of Dec., weather permitting. Admission $8 adult; $6 seniors 65 and older; active military members and veterans, college students and children age 5–17; free for ages 4 and younger and historical society members.
THE JEFFERS PETROGLYPHS
Dari King (507-825-2755), 605 W. 7th Street. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Cute café with quick-service sandwiches and ice cream delights. Inexpensive.
Entertainment
CINEMA AND LIVE PERFORMANCES
LAKE BENTON
Lake Benton Opera House (507-368-4620; lakebentonoperahouse.org), 118 E. Benton Street. The Lake Benton Opera House was first opened in 1896 but fell into disuse and disrepair in the late 1950s. In 1970, a group of local residents launched a campaign to save and restore the building, a process that took nearly 30 years because of the efforts to restore rather than replace. Now it offers several Broadway shows and family-friendly performances each year.
LUVERNE
Historic Palace Theatre (507-283-4339; palacetheatre.us), 104 Main Street. Luverne’s downtown area along Main Street is dotted with century-old buildings, many constructed of Sioux quartzite. Of particular note is the Historic Palace Theatre, which has been showing movies since 1915. Along the way, it has modernized its operations, but still has its large pipe organ, and it’s the oldest working theater organ of its kind in the United States. The theater hosts both movies and live events, and it was also the site of the premiere of Ken Burns’ The War.
PIPESTONE
Pipestone Performing Arts Center (507-825-2020; pipestoneperformingartscenter.com), 104 E. Main Street. Housed in a Sioux quartzite building that dates back to 1897, the center offers live performances year-round, with a variety of family-friendly concerts and shows.
Special Events
June: Worthington Windsurfing Regatta & Music Festival (worthingtonwindsurfing.net), Worthington. Held in June. Windsurfing championships and an indie music festival make for a great combination of interests. Beachfront waveboarding, an art fair, and possibly even fire eaters round up the entertainment.
July: Laura Ingalls Wilder Pageant (1-888-528-7298; walnutgrove.org), Walnut Grove. Held the last three weekends in July. This annual homage to Laura Ingalls Wilder is held on the banks of Plum Creek and covers some of the significant points of the Little House books. Note: This is a very popular event, and tickets can sell out in advance. Local lodging options are limited, so book ahead (see Wilder Inn under Lodging).
August: Pipestone Civil War Days (pipestoneminnesota.com/cwd), Pipe stone. Held mid-August in even-numbered years. Civil War life is brought alive in various ways: battle reenactments, church services, children’s games, dancing and etiquette lessons, a grand ball, and camp tours.
September: King Turkey Day (507-372-2919; kingturkeyday.net), Worthington. Held mid-September. At this tongue-in-cheek festival, held annually since 1939, people have raced turkeys in an attempt to win the coveted title of King Turkey. Other highlights include pancake breakfasts, volleyball tournaments, and a parade. But the crowning event is the Great Gobbler Gallop, in which teams of wild turkeys take to the streets.