West Timor

With amazing traditional villages, rugged countryside and empty beaches, West Timor is an undiscovered gem. Deep within its mountainous, lontar palm–studded interior, animist traditions persist alongside tribal dialects, and ikat-clad, betel-nut-chewing chiefs govern beehive-hut villages. Meanwhile Kupang, the coastal capital and East Nusa Tenggara’s top metropolis, buzzes to a frenetic Indonesian beat.

8Getting There & Around

A good way to explore East Nusa Tenggara (also known as Nusa Tenggara Timur, NTT) is to fly directly from Bali to Kupang and island-hop from there.

The good main highway is surfaced all the way from Kupang to East Timor. Away from the highway, roads are improving but can be impassable in the wet season.

Kupang

%0380 / Pop 350,000

Kupang, the capital of East Nusa Tenggara is noisy, energetic, scruffy, bustling with commerce and a fun place to hang around for a few days. (Captain Bligh did, after his mutiny problems in 1789.)

4Sleeping & Eating

Near the airport and the new commercial district are several large and bland chain hotels. Any of the properties on the waterfront will be much more pleasant, and will enjoy ocean breezes and views.

oLavalon Bar & HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-832256, 0812 377 0533; www.lavalontouristinfo.com; Jl Sumatera 44; dm 50,000Rp, r 150,000-250,000Rp; aW)

The best value in town with clean rooms and Western-style bathrooms. Excellent meals and cold beer are served in the open-air common area, which has fine views. It's run by the much-loved living NTT encyclopedia and former Indonesian film star Edwin Lerrick. Expansion plans will bring more private rooms to this prime waterfront location.

oHotel MalianaGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0380-821879; Jl Sumatera 35; r with fan/air-con 175,000/250,000Rp; aW)

These 14 basic yet comfy motel rooms are a popular budget choice. Rooms are clean and have ocean glimpses from the front porch, which dangles with vines. Breakfast is included.

oPasar MalamMARKET$

(Night Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Garuda; mains from 12,000Rp; h6-11pm)

Kupang was never considered a good eating town until this wonderful, lamp-lit market launched and turned a lane off Jl Garuda over to street-side grill and wok chefs, who expertly prepare inexpensive dishes. The seafood selection is vast, the grilling superb.

8Information

Kupang has scores of banks, ATMs and services, as befitting a regional capital.

LavalonTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 377 0533, 0380-832256; www.lavalontouristinfo.com; Jl Sumatera 44; h8am-late)

Edwin Lerrick, the proprietor, is a vital source for the latest transport information, as well as cultural attractions throughout NTT. His website is must-read for information.

8Getting There & Around

Air

Kupang’s El Tari airport (KOE) is 15km east of town. The most important hub in East Nusa Tenggara, it offers regular services to Bali and throughout the region. Taxi fare into town is fixed at 60,000Rp.

Boat

Bolok Harbour, where you get regular ferries to Kalabahi, Larantuka and Waingapu, is 11km west of the centre.

Local Transport

Long-distance buses depart from Oebobo terminal on the eastern side of town – catch bemo 10. Kupang is spread out, so use the bemo system (2000Rp).

It’s possible to rent a car with a driver from 400,000Rp to 750,000Rp per day, depending upon the destination. Motorcycles cost around 60,000Rp per day. You can arrange one at your hotel or through Lavalon ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 377 0533; www.lavalontouristinfo.com; Jl Sumatera 44; mains from 30,000Rp; h7am-late; W).

GETTING TO TIMOR-LESTE: KUPANG TO DILI

Besides pure tourism, many head to Timor-Leste from West Timor to renew their Indonesian visa. If you decide to go, be aware that Timor-Leste is considerably more expensive than Indonesia, and the return trip normally takes more than a week by the time you get to Dili, wait for your Indonesian visa and return to West Timor.

Getting to the border Direct minibuses (10 to 11 hours) to Dili from Kupang are operated by Timor Tour & Travel (%0380-881543; one-way 230,000Rp) and Paradise (%0380-830414, 0813 3944 7183; one-way 230,000Rp). Call for a hotel pickup. Departures can be as early as 5am, so brace yourself.

At the border Apply for your visa to Timor-Leste at the Timor-Leste Consulate ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813-3936 7558; Jl Eltari II; h8am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 2pm Fri) in Kupang with a valid passport, a photocopy and passport photos. It costs US$30 and takes one to three working days to process. There are no buses waiting on either side of the border if you arrive independently; you'll have a long wiat hoping for one to show up. The through minibus is by far the best option.

Moving on The through minibuses take you direct to Dili, where most people start their Timor-Leste visit. They do drop-offs at guesthouses and hotels.

Soe

About 110km east from Kupang, the cool, leafy market town of Soe (800m) makes a decent base from which to explore West Timor’s interior. Arrange tours of traditional villages here or in Kupang.

Air-con isn't needed here. Hotel Bahagia I (%0853 3830 3809; Jl Diponegoro; r 120,000-275,000Rp; a) and Timor Megah Hotel (%0388-22280; Jl Gajah Mada; r 250,000-400,000Rp; aW) are fine choices.

The Haumeni bus terminal is 4km west of town (3000Rp by bemo). Regular buses go to Kupang (30,000Rp, three hours).

None

None is Kefamananu’s last head-hunting village and one of the area’s best attractions. A trail runs for 900m from where the bemo drops you off on the main road. Stroll past corn and bean fields and hop over a meandering stream (often dry) and you’ll reach scattered ume bubu (traditional beehive huts), home to 56 families that have lived here for nine generations. At the cliff’s edge you’ll find a totem pole, where shamans once met with warriors before they left on head-hunting expeditions (the last was in 1945).

Villagers are warm and welcoming, and break out their looms at the village lopo (meeting place) for weaving demonstrations upon request. Be sure to leave an offering of at least 20,000Rp each.

8Getting There & Away

You can reach None, 18km east of Soe, on an ojek (30,000Rp). Or hop on a Soe–Niki Niki bemo for 5,000Rp.

Sumba

The island of Sumba is a dynamic mystery. With its rugged, undulating savannah and low limestone hills knitted together with more maize and cassava than rice, it physically looks nothing like Indonesia’s volcanic islands to the north. Sprinkled throughout the countryside are hilltop villages with thatched clan-houses clustered around megalithic tombs, where villagers claim to be Protestant but still pay homage to their indigenous marapu (gods) with bloody sacrificial rites.

Sumba is one of the poorest islands in Indonesia, but an influx of welcome government investment has brought recent improvements in infrastructure, best seen in Tambolaka, the island's newest city. And change has trickled down to traditional villages in the form of modest improvements in living standards – but locals still expect large donations from visitors. Sumba is definitely an adventurous, far-off-the-beaten path destination.

8Information

The website www.sumba-information.com is a vast compendium for all things Sumba. It's a must for any visitor.

8Getting There & Away

Sumba's links to greater Indonesia are improving. Airports in Tambolaka and Waingapu have daily flights to Bali and Kupang in West Timor. Ferries run to Flores and Kupang.

WORTH A TRIP

PASOLA – SUMBA AT WAR

The thrilling, often gruesome mock battles between spear-hurling horsemen during Sumba’s Pasola festival are a must for travellers passing through Nusa Tenggara in February or March. The high-energy pageant aims to placate the spirits and restore harmony through the spilling of blood. Happily, blunt spears have been used in recent decades to make the affair less lethal. The ritualistic war kicks off when a sea worm called nyale washes up on shore, a phenomenon that also starts the planting season.

In February, Pasola is celebrated in the Kodi area (centred on Kampung Tosi) and the Lemboya area (Kampung Sodan); in March it’s in the Wanokaka area (Kampung Waigalli) and the remote Gaura area, west of Lamboya (Kampung Ubu Olehka). Exact dates are known two weeks before Pasola. Check with the guides and hotels in Waikabubak and Tambolaka, as well as East NTT expert Edwin Lerrick at Lavalon in Kupang.

Waingapu

%0387 / Pop 55,000

Waingapu is a leafy, laid-back town that is plenty walkable and makes a decent base from which to explore the surrounding villages. It became an administrative centre after the Dutch military ‘pacified’ the island in 1906 and has long been Sumba’s main trading post for textiles, prized Sumbanese horses, dyewoods and lumber. The town has an appealing harbourfront dining scene and a few ikat shops and workshops. Traders with bundles of textiles and carvings hang around hotels or walk the streets touting for rupiah.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most hotels are in the new part of Waingapu, near the bus station. The best dinner option is the pasar malam (night market) at the old wharf.

oTanto HotelGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-61048, 0387-62500; Jl Prof Dr WZ Yohanes; r 200,000-450,000Rp; aW)

The newest hotel in town is also the best. Bright, fresh rooms and good service set the Tanto apart from most of its competition. The decor is primarily white, with natural wood and vivid-red accents. Many rooms have fridges; the breakfast is good.

8Getting There & Around

The airport (WGP) is 6km south on the Melolo road.

Pelni ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-61665; www.pelni.co.id; Jl Hasanuddin; h9am-4pm) ships leave from the newer Darmaga dock to the west of town, but the ticket office is at the old port. Ferry schedules are subject to change: check the ASDP (%0214-288 2233) hotline or see the schedules at the port.

The terminal for eastbound buses is in the southern part of town, close to the market. The West Sumba terminal (aka Terminal Kota) is about 5km west of town.

Around Waingapu

Several traditional villages in the southeast can be visited from Waingapu by bus and bemo. The stone tombs are impressive and the area produces some of Sumba’s best ikat. Donations are expected.

Praiyawang, the ceremonial centre of Rende, has a traditional Sumbanese compound and stone-slab tombs. The massive one belongs to a former raja. There are several daily buses to Rende from Waingapu (20,000Rp, 1½ hours).

There’s epic surf at Tarimbang, a palm-draped cove south of Lewa. There’s also some nearby snorkelling, and rustic accommodation at Marthen’s Homestay (%0852 8116 5137; r from 150,000Rp). Daily trucks to Tarimbang leave Waingapu in the morning (40,000Rp, five hours).

Waikabubak

%0387 / Pop 22,000

A conglomeration of thatched clan houses, ancient tombs, concrete office buildings and satellite dishes, Waikabubak is strange but appealing. Interesting traditional villages such as Kampung Tarung, up a path next to Tarung Wisata Hotel, are right within town.

Right beside the main road to Waingapu, 22km east of Waikabubak, Kampung Pasunga boasts one of Sumba’s most impressive tombs.

Gorgeous beaches abound. Typical are the idyllic white sands of Pantai Marosi, 32km south of Waikabubak.

4Sleeping & Eating

Warungs congregate opposite the mosque on the main strip.

Karanu HotelGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0387-21645; Jl Sudirman 43; r 150,000-250,000Rp)

A bright garden hotel east of the downtown swirl and within view of nearby rice fields. Rooms are clean if worn. They don’t have air-con, but they do have a fading Last Supper rug tacked to the lobby wall.

oD' Sumba AteINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0857 3775 6606; Jl Ahmad Yani 148; mains 20,000-70,000Rp; h10am-10pm)

A very welcome addition to the West Sumba food scene, this excellent restaurant cooks up wood-fired pizzas, pasta, burgers and the usual Indo suspects. There's a cool open-air bamboo vibe and a competent bar, plus Sumba's cleanest toilets!

8Getting There & Away

Tambolaka, 42km northwest of Waikabubak, has the closest airport.

Bemos, trucks and minibuses service most other towns and villages in West Sumba. Generally, it’s best to leave early in the day, when they tend to fill up and depart quickest. There are several daily buses to Waingapu (50,000Rp, five hours).

GUIDES

Sumba is such a mystery that the services of a guide can make all the difference in fully appreciating the island and its multitude of cultures and practices, such as the Pasola. Two to consider:

Sumba Adventure Tours & TravelTOURS

(%0813 3710 7845; sumbaadventure@yahoo.com; Desa Kalena Wanno, Tambolaka; guiding services per day 250,000Rp, per day with car & driver 850,000Rp)

With an office close to the airport, experienced guide Philip Renggi is one of the best in West Sumba. He and his team of guides lead trips into seldom-explored villages, including his native Manuakalada and Wawarungu, where there are several sacred marapu houses that only shaman can enter. He can arrange itineraries, set you up for Pasola, rent cars etc.

Yuliana LedataraGUIDE

(%0852 3918 1410; yuli.sumba@gmail.com; Kampung Tarung, Waikabubak; per day from 450,000Rp)

A wonderful local English- and French-speaking guide who lives in Tarung – Waikabubak's hilltop traditional village – Yuliana can organise tours of traditional villages throughout West Sumba, where she sniffs out funerals and sacrifices, takes horse tours through rice fields, and can arrange village homestays too. She's one of Indonesia's very few female guides, and she's a good one.

Around Waikabubak

Set in a lush valley 22km east of Waikabubak, Anakalang sports some of Sumba’s most captivating megalith tombs. Additional interesting villages are south of town past the market. Kabonduk has Sumba’s heaviest tomb; it took 2000 workers more than three years to carve it.

Located south of Waikabubak is Wanokaka district, which is a centre for the Pasola festival. Praigoli, a somewhat isolated village, is deeply traditional.

Our favourite place in West Sumba, Oro Beach Houses & Restaurant, is not far from Tambolaka along a mostly rutted dirt road. Think three wild beachfront acres featuring a simple, artful house. There are excellent seafood meals, local village tours and snorkelling just off shore.

Tambolaka

Located 42km northwest of Waikabubak, this once sleepy market town has become West Sumba's main transport hub – it's booming and it's got a whole new name, at least in tourism brochures and other government literature. (We've followed suit, even if many locals of a certain age still refer to it as Waitabula.) While still in the early stages of growth, Tambolaka is easily accessible from Bali, and is the gateway to the island's sensational western half.

This is a good base for West Sumba explorations. While not as nice as the southern beaches, the ones here have some nice hotels.

4Sleeping & Eating

Penginapan MelatiGUESTHOUSE$

(%0813 5396 6066, 0387-24055; Jl Waitabula; r with fan/air-con 150,000/250,000Rp; aW)

Shaded by a huge tree, the 15 rooms here are simple but immaculate with fresh paint and tile throughout. They even have rain shower heads in the mandi. There's a simple Padang-style restaurant right next door.

oOro Beach Houses & RestaurantBUNGALOW$$

(%0813 3911 0068, 0813 5378 9946; www.oro-beachbungalows.com; r US$45-60)

Think: three wild beachfront acres owned by a special family (she used to run an NGO, he’s an architect with a disaster relief background), where you can nest in a circular thatched bungalow blessed with a canopied driftwood bed and outdoor bath. They offer excellent meals, mountain biking and snorkelling just off their stunning 200m long beach.

oWarung Gula GaramINTERNATIONAL$

(%0387-252 4019; Bandara Udara; mains 12,000-100,000Rp; h10am-11pm; W)

'They have a wood-burning pizza oven!' exclaimed more than one expat as they enthused about this stylish new cafe in an open-air pavilion near the airport. Elsewhere a full coffee and juice bar, plus a menu of organic salads, pastas and burgers, would raise nary an eyebrow, but here its revolutionary.

8Getting There & Away

Tambolaka's airport (TMC) terminal is shiny and modern. There are daily flights to Bali and Kupang (West Timor) by Garuda Indonesia and Wings Air. Note that on some websites it is listed as 'Waikabubak'.

Waikelo, a small and predominantly Muslim town north of Tambolaka, has a small picturesque harbour that is the main port for West Sumba and offers ferry service to Sape (Sumbawa) twice a week (65,000Rp, eight hours).

Buses leave throughout the day for Waikabubak (10,000Rp to 15,000Rp, one hour), departing from the centre of town.

Sumatra

Few isles tempt the imagination with the lure of adventure quite like the fierce land of Sumatra. An island of extraordinary beauty, it bubbles with life and vibrates under the power of nature. Eruptions, earthquakes and tsunamis are Sumatran headline grabbers. Steaming volcanoes brew and bluster while standing guard over lakes that sleepily lap the edges of craters. Orangutan-filled jungles also host tigers, rhinos and elephants. And down at sea level, idyllic deserted beaches are bombarded by clear barrels of surf.

As varied as the land, the people of Sumatra are a spicy broth of mixed cultures, from the devout Muslims in Aceh to the hedonistic Batak Christians around Danau Toba and the matrilineal Minangkabau people of Padang. All are unified by a fear, respect and love of the wild and wondrous land of Sumatra.

8Getting There & Away

These days, most travellers reach Sumatra via budget airline flight or ferry from Java. The old sea routes are largely redundant.

When making travel plans, keep in mind that Sumatra is one hour behind Singapore and Malaysia.

The international airports at Medan, Padang, Banda Aceh and Pekanbaru are visa-free, as are the seaports of Sekupang (Pulau Batam), Dumai, Padang and Sibolga.

Air

Medan is Sumatra’s primary international airport, with frequent flights to mainland Southeast Asian cities such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Penang. In West Sumatra, Padang receives flights from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur.

You can also hop on a plane from Jakarta to every major Sumatran city aboard a range of airlines. Flights from Sumatra to other parts of Indonesia often connect through Jakarta.

Boat

Ferries run between Dumai (on Sumatra’s east coast) and Melaka and Klang (for Kuala Lumpur) in Malaysia; Singapore; and Pulau Batam, but Dumai is only useful if you have your heart set on an international boat journey or if you’re transporting a motorcycle between Sumatra and Malaysia.

From Singapore, ferries make the quick hop to Pulau Batam and Pulau Bintan, the primary islands in the Riau archipelago. From Batam, boats set sail for Dumai, Palembang and Pekanbaru, but few travellers use these routes.

Ferries cross the narrow Sunda Strait, which links the southeastern tip of Sumatra at Bakauheni to Java’s westernmost point of Merak. The sea crossing is a brief dip in a day-long voyage that requires several hours’ worth of bus transport from both ports to Jakarta and, on the Sumatra side, Bandarlampung.

GETTING TO SINGAPORE: THE RIAU ARCHIPELAGO TO SINGAPORE

Getting to the border Although backpackers seldom visit Sumatra's Riau Archipelago, some do transit through Pulau Batam on their way to Singapore. Ferry operators on this route include BatamFast (%HarbourFront terminal 65-6270 2228, Tanah Merah terminal 65-6542 6310; www.batamfast.com). You can get to Pulau Batam by boat and bus connections from Dumai, Palembang and Pekanbaru.

At the border Citizens of most countries will be granted a 30-day visa when they arrive in Singapore.

Moving on Ferry services from the Riau Islands serve several terminals in Singapore, where it's easy to get onward public transport connections.

8Getting Around

Most travellers bus around northern Sumatra and then hop on a plane to Java, largely avoiding Sumatra’s highway system. Most of the island is mountainous jungle and the poorly maintained roads form a twisted pile of spaghetti on the undulating landscape. Don’t count on getting anywhere very quickly on Sumatra.

Air

Short plane journeys can be an attractive alternative to spending an eternity on packed buses. Competition between domestic carriers means internal flights are inexpensive and largely reliable, with the exception of Susi Air and their small planes, which are particularly susceptible to bad weather. Dry-season smog affects planes along the east coast.

Boat

Most boat travel within Sumatra connects the main island with the many satellite islands lining the coast.

Bus & Minibus

If you stick to the Trans-Sumatran Hwy and other major roads, the big air-con buses can make travel fairly comfortable – which is fortunate since you’ll spend a lot of time on the road in Sumatra. The best ones have reclining seats, toilets and video but run at night to avoid the traffic, so you miss out on the scenery. The non-air-con buses are sweaty and cramped, but unforgettable. Numerous bus companies cover the main routes and prices vary greatly, depending on the comfort level. Buy tickets directly from the bus company. Agents usually charge 10% more.

Travel on the back roads is a different story. Progress can be grindingly slow and utterly exhausting.

For midrange and shorter journeys, many locals and travellers prefer to use minibus and shared car services, which can be more convenient than hustling out to the bus terminal as they run intercity and door-to-door. They are not necessarily faster, but more comfortable and convenient.

Train

The only three useful train services in Sumatra run from Medan’s new airport to the centre of Medan, and from Bandarlampung to Palembang and Lahat (for the Pasemah Highlands).

Padang

%0751 / Pop 877,000

Most backpackers fly into Padang only to catch the first bus to Bukittinggi. Big mistake. Sumatra’s largest west-coast city has a gorgeous waterfront setting, with Minangkabau roofs soaring from modern public buildings and a leafy old quarter dominated by a narrow, brackish river harbour crowded with colourful fishing boats, yachts and luxe Bugis schooners. The coastline south of town is also magnificent, and the city beach is edged by a popular promenade – where you’ll want to be when the sun drops.

Padang

1Sights

1Adityawarman MuseumB2

2Colonial QuarterC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Sumatran SurfariisC3

4Sleeping

4Brigitte's HouseB4

5Golden HomestayA4

6Yani's HomestayA3

5Eating

7Pagi SoreC3

8Pak Tri'sB3

9Pondok Indah JayaC3

10Sari RasoC2

11Simpang RayaB2

1Sights & Activities

Locals converge on the beach promenade at sunset for snacks, cool drinks and football games on the sand.

Colonial QuarterAREA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Although damaged in the 2009 earthquake, Padang’s colonial-era quarter around Jl Batang Arau is still worth a lazy stroll. Old Dutch and Chinese warehouses back onto a river brimming with fishing boats. The beach along Jl Samudera is the best place to watch the sunset.

Adityawarman MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro; admission 2500Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)

Adityawarman Museum, built in the Minangkabau tradition, has pleasant grounds and the exhibits are a thorough introduction to everyday Minangkabau life. A healthy imagination helps, since the exhibits are in Bahasa Indonesia. The entrance is on Jl Gereja.

oRegina AdventuresTOUR, SURFING

(%0751-781 0835, 0812 6774 5464; www.reginaadventures.com; 10-day surf packages per person from US$450)

Reliable local operator Elvis offers trekking on the Mentawai Islands, trips to Danau Maninjau and Bukittinggi, and ascents of Gunung Merapi and Gunung Kerinci. Check the website for good-value surf trips to Mentawai and Krui further south.

Nando Sumatra ToursCULTURAL

(%0812 6672 8800, 0852 6335 7645; www.nandosumatratour.com; Jl Tanjung Indah I blok E; 10-day Mentawai treks from per person US$700)

A young, up-and-coming company with friendly owner Nando at the helm. Arranges 10-day Mentawai cultural immersion tours, as well as tours of North and West Sumatra and trekking around Danau Maninjau.

4Sleeping

Brigitte’s HouseHOMESTAY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 7425 7162; http://brigittehouse.blogspot.com; Jl Kampung Sebalah 1/14; dm/s/d from 95,000/100,000/230,000Rp; aW)

Brigitte’s has a relaxed and homely ambience, with backpackers chilling in the common area or mingling on the porch. This residential neighbourhood is quiet and leafy, and Brigitte is a treasure trove of information on buses, ferries and Mentawai adventures (and can help you with bookings). A short walk away is the separate building with air-con rooms.

Yani’s HomestayHOMESTAY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0852 6380 1686; yuliuz.caesar@gmail.com; d 80,000Rp, r 120,000-175,000Rp, all incl breakfast; aW)

Run by friendly young owner Yuliuz, this central homestay provides bona fide backpacker digs in the form of an air-con dorm with lockers and rooms with colourful bedspreads. If you don’t want to share your bathroom, splurge on the standard double. Motorbikes are available for guest use (60,000Rp per day).

Golden HomestayHOMESTAY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-32616; Jl Nipah Berok 1B; r 200,000-375,000Rp; aW)

Spotless private rooms named after Sydney's classic surfing beaches. Grab a bed in the cheaper Bronte room, or splash out on the Bondi or Manly rooms with private bathrooms.

5Eating

Padang is the mother of the cuisine that migrated across Indonesia; you can pay homage to the native cooks with a visit to one of these famous franchises: Pagi Sore ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Pondok 143; dishes 9000Rp; hlunch & dinner), Sari Raso ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Karya 3; dishes 10,000Rp; hlunch & dinner) and Simpang Raya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Bundo Kandung; dishes 8000Rp; hlunch & dinner).

Jl Batang Arau is full of cheap warungs that spring to life at night, while discerning foodies head for Jl Pondok and Jl HOS Cokroaminoto. Juice wagons loiter near the end of Jl Hayam Wuruk. For cheap sate, grilled seafood and a few cold Bintangs, head to the beachfront shacks lining Jl Sumadera at sunset.

Pondok Indah JayaINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Niaga 138; meals around 40,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)

This warung is an excellent intro to Padang cuisine, your feast of dishes including spicy tofu, beef rendang, ayam sambal and tempeh. Cool the fire in your mouth with some sirsak (soursop), cucumber or mango juice.

oPak Tri’sSEAFOOD$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl HOS Cokroaminoto 91; meals from 50,000Rp; h5pm-late)

The fish and squid are flame-grilled to perfection with a sweet, spicy sambal sauce here. The fresh-every-afternoon marine selection includes shoals of different fish and squid, with a supporting cast of kangkung (water spinach) and aubergine dishes. Grab a spot at the shared tables and tuck in for a quintessential Padang experience, occasionally accompanied by the serenading of street minstrels.

8Information

Imigrasi OfficeIMMIGRATION OFFICE

(%0751-444511; Jl Khatib Sulaiman; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)

Thirty-day visa extensions can be made for US$35 at the Padang Imigrasi office. It’s about 5km out of town by ojek or taxi.

Rumah Sakit Yos SudarsoHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-33230; Jl Situjuh 1)

Privately owned hospital.

Tourism PadangTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-34186; Dinas Kebudayaan Dan Pariwisata, Jl Samudera 1; h7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)

Maps of town and a few English-language regional brochures.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Padang’s airport, Bandara Internasional Minangkabau (BIM; www.minangkabau-airport.co.id; Jl Adinegoro), is located 20km north of town.

Bus

Tranex (%0751-705 8577) buses depart for Bukittinggi (20,000Rp, three hours) from the city’s northern fringes, outside the Wisma Indah building. It’s half the price of a door-to-door minibus but it means you have to catch any white angkot (3000Rp) heading north on Jl Permuda (ask for ‘Tranex’ or ‘Wisma Indah’), and then find transport from Bukittinggi bus terminal, which is miles from the centre. In reality you save very little money.

The minibuses most relevant to travellers depart from Jl Jhoni Anwar. Putra Mandau (%0751-782 2218; Jl Jhoni Anwar) links Padang to Dumai if you’re travelling to/from Sumatra by sea from Malaysia or Singapore.

8Getting Around

Airport taxis charge around 150,000Rp from the airport, but 300,000Rp to the airport. If you’re travelling light, step outside the airport boundaries and hail an ojek to get to central Padang. White Damri ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-780 6335) buses (35,000Rp) are a cheaper alternative that loop through Padang, though there are no clearly designated stops and they run to an erratic schedule.

MENTAWAI ISLANDS

It was surfing that put the Mentawais on the tourism radar: nowhere else on earth has such a dense concentration of world-class surf spots in such a small area. Today, dozens of wave-hunting liveaboards run from Padang harbour year-round and a growing number of dedicated surf camps populate the banner spots. Surfing is big business here year-round, but the season peaks between April and October. Like many Indonesian surf areas, the Mentawais are not suitable for learners. The waves, which break over shallow reefs, tend to be fast, hollow, heavy and unforgiving.

The most consistent cluster of waves is in the Playground area, but things can get rather crowded during peak season. Bintang Surf Camp (%0812 6617 4454; Pulau Masokut; per person 400,000Rp) is the best of the local budget lot, with basic thatched huts and shared rooms.

It’s not just surfers who come out here; more and more ecotourists are also braving the rugged ocean crossing and muddy jungle of this remote archipelago to trek, glimpse traditional tribal culture and spot endemic primates.

The economic, and culturally responsible, choice for touring is to take a public boat to Siberut and seek out a Mentawai guide. You pay less and directly benefit the community you’ve come to experience.

As far as surfing tours go, the vast majority of surfers pre-arrange boat charters or surf camp accommodation with a surf travel company in their home country. These are ideal if all you want to do is get off a plane and surf your guts out. However, it’s a real bubble-like existence and the only Indonesians you’re actually likely to meet will be your boat crew. If you’ve got lots of time then it’s perfectly possible, and much closer to the true spirit of old-school surf travel, to take the public ferry out to the islands and once there arrange local boat transport and accommodation in one of the cheap and simple losmen that can be found close to many of the breaks.

GETTING THERE & AWAY

The Mentawai Islands have become considerably easier to reach with the introduction of a 200-seater speedboat, Mentawai Fast (%0751-893 489; mentawaifast@gmail.com; one way 295,000Rp, surfboard 230,000Rp). There are also ferries that make the overnight journey from the Sumatran mainland to the islands; they leave from the Teluk Kabang port at Bungus, around 20km south of Padang, and take around 10 to 12 hours, depending on sea conditions.

In Padang, ferry operators to the Mentawais include Ambu Ambu & Gambolo . Fares range from 50,000Rp to 180,000Rp, depending upon route and travel class. Tickets can be booked through most surfer-friendly homestays, as well as tour agencies (here) such as Sumatran Surfariis ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-34878; www.sumatransurfariis.com; Komplek Pondok Indah B 12, Parak Gadang).

Bukittinggi

%0752 / Pop 112,000

The market town of Bukittinggi sits high above the valley mists as three sentinels – fire-breathing Merapi, benign Singgalang and distant Sago – all look on impassively. Sun-ripened crops grow large in the rich volcanic soil, as frogs call in the paddies, bendis (two-person horse-drawn carts) haul goods to the pasa (market), and the muezzin’s call is heard through the town. Modern life seems far removed…until 9am. Then the traffic starts up, and soon there’s a mile-long jam around the bus terminal. The air turns the colour of diesel and the mosques counter the traffic by cranking their amps. Such is the incongruity of modern Bukittinggi – blessed by nature, choked by mortals. Lush. Fertile. Busy. And at 930m above sea level, deliciously temperate all year round.

The town (alternatively named Tri Arga, which refers to the triumvirate of peaks) has had a chequered history, playing host at various times to Islamic reformists, Dutch colonials, Japanese invaders and Sumatran separatists. It’s a good base for setting out to the Harau Valley and Danau Maninjau.

Bukittinggi

1Sights

1Gua JepangA5

2Taman PanoramaA5

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Roni's Tour & TravelB3

4Sleeping

3Hello GuesthouseB3

4Orchid HotelB3

5Rajawali HomestayC1

5Eating

6Ramadan MarketD3

7Simpang RayaC3

8Waroeng Jalal Spesifik SambalC1

3Entertainment

9Gedung Medan Nan BalinduangC4

1Sights

Taman PanoramaVIEWPOINT

(Panorama Park; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Panorama; admission 10,000Rp)

Taman Panorama, on the southern edge of town, overlooks the deep Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Canyon), where fruit bats swoop at sunset. Friendly guides will approach visitors to lead you through Gua Jepang (Japanese Caves; MAP GOOGLE MAP ), wartime defensive tunnels built by Japanese slave labour; settle on a price (around 30,000Rp) before continuing. Another path (and extra admission) gives you access to the Koto Gadang (Great Wall), a cheesy scaled-down Great Wall of China.

4Sleeping

Most hotels include a simple breakfast. On holidays, rooms fill quickly with Indonesian visitors. In Bukittinggi’s temperate climate, hot water is more desirable than air-con.

oHello GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-21542; helloguesthouse12@gmail.com; Jl Teuku Umar 6b; dm/s/d from 75,000/120,000/150,000Rp; W)

This excellent new guesthouse with bright and modern rooms is run by thoughtful owner Ling, who understands the needs of budget travellers. She is happy to provide maps of town, has displays on town attractions, and has thoughtfully kitted out her digs with super-comfy mattresses and earplugs to counter the guesthouse’s proximity to a mosque. Spacious deluxe rooms come with balconies.

oRajawali HomestayHOMESTAY$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-31905; ulrich.rudolph@web.de; Jl Ahmad Yani 152; r 80,000Rp)

The eight rooms at this friendly, central homestay are basic and come with Indonesian bathrooms. The irrepressible Ulrich is the best source of local (and regional) knowledge in town, with advice on detailed walks and motorcycle rides around Bukittinggi and excellent GPS maps. The roof terrace is perfect for sunset beers as you watch the twilight squadrons of bats flying past.

Orchid HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-32634; roni_orchid@hotmail.com; Jl Teuku Umar 11; r 120,000-150,000Rp; W)

This popular backpacker inn is ground zero for arranging tours and activities with Roni’s Tour & Travel, which is highly praised by travellers. The rooms here could do with sprucing up though.

OUT & ABOUT IN BUKITTINGGI

A vast array of local tours can be arranged in Bukittinggi. Generally these fall into two categories: culture and nature. They can range from a half-day meander through neighbouring villages, a scour of the nearby jungles for the worlds largest (and smelliest) flowers Rafflesia Arnoldii and Amorphophallus Titanium or, for something more demanding, a three-day jungle trek to Danau Maninjau, or an overnight assault on Gunung Merapi.

Guides hang out in all the cafes. Be clear about what you want and what is and isn’t included. If going solo, make sure somebody knows who’s guiding you. Full day tours start at around 250,000Rp. Roni’s Tour & Travel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0812 675 0688; www.ronistours.com; Orchid Hotel, Jl Teuku Umar) is a good operator.

5Eating & Drinking

Bukittinggi has long been the one place in Sumatra where weary road bums can give their poor chilli-nuked organs a chance to recover with lashings of lovingly bland Western food.

In the evenings, sate stalls spring up on the western side of the square, while the tents lining Jl Ahmad Yani cook up mie (noodles) and nasi goreng (fried rice), murtabak mesir (filled pancake) and roti cane (flat bread).

oWaroeng Jalal Spesifik SambalINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Kesehatan; mains 6000-20,000Rp; hlunch & dinner; Wv)

Fans of spicy dishes will love this shady garden warung specialising mostly in sambal dishes. Squid, prawns, chicken, tofu, tempeh and aubergine are all cooked in a rich, fiery chilli sauce, with kangkung (water spinach) providing a mild accompaniment. The beer may well be Bukittinggi’s coldest. Get here early lest they run out of the most popular dishes.

Simpang RayaINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Minangkabau; meals around 50,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)

The best place in town to sample the fabled Padang cuisine – spicy, flavourful dishes, with a particularly savoury rendang (beef coconut curry). Just ask for the assortment of what’s on offer.

Ramadan MarketMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Cinduo Mato; dishes from 10,000Rp; h8am-6pm)

During the month of Ramadan, this car park turns into a whirlwind of culinary activity as dozens of stalls press sugar-cane juice, cook up rendang, concoct elaborate desserts and deep-fry all sorts of artery-clogging goodies. Locals shop here during the day in preparation for the breaking of the fast and it’s a terrific place to try local dishes.

3Entertainment

Gedung Medan Nan BalinduangDANCE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Lenggogeni; tickets 50,000Rp; h8.30pm)

Medan Nan Balinduang presents Minangkabau dance performances. Check with your lodgings for the latest schedule.

8Information

Banks with ATMs, and money changers are clustered along Jl Ahmad Yani, home also to dozens of travel agents and many more services.

8Getting There & Away

The chaos of the main bus terminal, Aur Kuning, 3km south of town is easily reached by angkot (3000Rp); ask for ‘terminal.’ Heading to central Bukittinggi on arrival ask for ‘Kampung China.’

The main bus terminal is useful for some bus departures but not all. Minibuses to Sibolga depart from offices on Jl Veteran, as do minibuses to Parapat; scheduled door-to-door transfers to Padang are more convenient than waiting for a bus at the terminal. Most lodgings can point you in the right direction and assist with booking passage.

The best way to get to Dumai – for ferries to Melaka and Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia – is with BWE Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752 625 140, 0752 625 139; Jl Pemuda 81). Minibuses leave Bukittinggi nightly at 8pm, and departures are timed to link with the ferry from Dumai to Melaka. Prebooking is required.

BUSES FROM BUKITTINGGI

Destination	Cost (Rp)	Duration (hr)
Medan	160,000-200,000	20
Parapat	180,000-200,000	16
Sibolga	110,000-150,000	12

8Getting Around

Angkot around town cost 3000Rp. Bendi start from 20,000Rp; bargain hard. An ojek from the bus terminal to the hotels costs 15,000Rp; a taxi costs 30,000Rp. Transfers to Padang airport can be arranged from any travel agent for around 55,000Rp.

For motorcycle rental, visit Glory Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; Tilal Bookshop, Jl Ahmad Yani; per day 60,000Rp) or enquire at your lodgings.

Danau Maninjau

%0752

The first glimpse of this perfectly formed volcanic lake sucks your breath away as you lurch over the caldera lip and hurtle towards the first of the 44 hairpin bends (yep, they’re numbered) down to the lakeshore.

Ground zero is the intersection where the Bukittinggi highway meets the lake road in the middle of Maninjau village. Turn left or right and drive 60km and you’ll end up back here. The lake is 17km long, 8km wide and 460m above sea level. Most places of interest spread out north along the road to Bayur and beyond. If coming by bus, tell the conductor where you’re staying and you’ll be dropped off at the right spot.

2Activities

Swimming and canoeing in the lake (warmed by subterranean springs) are the main drawcards here but there are plenty of other options.

The caldera, covered in rainforest that hides waterfalls and traditional villages, is a hiker’s dream. Hike to the rim from Bayur, or cheat by catching the bus up the hill to Matur, then walking back down via the lookout at Puncak Lawang. Check out the map at Beach Guest House for more good trekking information.

Zipping around the lake on a motorcycle will take roughly three hours.

4Sleeping & Eating

The majority of Maninjau options front onto aquaculture. There's a sprinkling of hotels, cheap losmen and restaurants between Maninjau and Bayur. Outside Maninjau village, most losmen are reached by walking along rice-paddy paths, so look for the sign by the roadside.

oBeach Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-861799, 0813 6379 7005; www.beachguesthousemaninjau.com; Jl Raya Maninjau; dm 40,000, r 75,000-150,000; W)

Run by a friendly, energetic local couple, this is Danau Maninjau’s bona fide traveller central. Owners organise excursions, from round-the-lake bicycle or motorbike jaunts to hiking the caldera (seven hours). As for the digs, choose between bunking in the dorm or a range of rooms, the plushest lined up on the lakefront and boasting hot showers.

Muaro Beach BungalowsBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 3924 0042, 0752-61189; neni967@yahoo.com; Jl Muaro Pisang 53, Maninjau; r 80,000-120,000Rp; W)

Down a maze of footpaths (about 300m northwest of the main intersection), these beachfront bungalows are the best value in Maninjau. The beach is (almost) free of aquaculture and fish farming, and there’s a good restaurant that’s also open to nonguests. Local tours and activities are on offer.

Arlen Nova’s ParadiseBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0853 7475 9288; www.nova-maninjau.id.or.id; Sungai-Rangeh; r 175,000Rp)

Walk through rice paddies (5.5km north of Maninjau) to these five simple bungalows, draped in passionfruit vines on a private beach, with nary a fish pond in sight. The setting is gorgeous and a plethora of friendly cats hang out at the on-site restaurant, but the lodgings could use some TLC.

8Getting There & Around

Buses run hourly between Maninjau and Bukittinggi (20,000Rp, 1¾ hours). Taxis from Bukittinggi start at 160,000Rp.

Rent mountain bikes (per day 45,000Rp), motorcycles (per day 100,000Rp) and canoes (per day 40,000Rp) from PT Kesuma Tour & Travel ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0752-61422, 0812 669 9661; www.sumatratravelling.com; Jl Panurunan Air Hangat) or Waterfront Zalino ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0815 3541 1074; mains 30,000-85,000Rp; hlunch & dinner).

Minibuses (3000Rp) travel the lake road during daylight hours. An ojek from the intersection to Bayur will cost around 10,000Rp.

Danau Toba

%0625

There’s no denying the beauty of Danau Toba (Lake Toba), home of the fun-loving Christian Batak people. This 1707-sq-km, 450m-deep lake, set in the collapsed caldera of an extinct volcano, is surrounded by mountains ribboned with waterfalls and terraced with rice fields. Its pale-blue magnificence hits you on the bus ride into Parapat, when you’ll also spot, in the middle of the lake, Pulau Samosir – a Singapore-sized island of blissful greenery and chilled-out vibes. When there’s a touch of mist in the air and the horizon is obscured, the water seems to blend perfectly with the sky. Combine the climate, scenery, sights and friendly locals with some great food and an impressive array of cheap accommodation and you’ll see why Lake Toba is Sumatra’s backpacker hang-out par excellence.

Danau Toba

4Sleeping

1Bagus Bay HomestayC2

2Harriara GuesthouseD1

3Liberta HomestayC2

4Merlyn GuesthouseD1

Romlan GuesthouseD1

5Samosir CottagesC1

6Tabo CottagesC2

5Eating

7Jenny's RestaurantC1

8Juwita CafeD2

Today's CafeD2

6Drinking & Nightlife

9Brando's Blues BarC1

Parapat

The mainland departure point for Danau Toba, Parapat has everything a transiting tourist needs: transport, lodging and supplies. But unless you get here too late to catch a boat to Tuk Tuk, there’s no reason to overnight here.

The commercial sector of the town is clumped along the Trans-Sumatran Hwy (Jl SM Raja) and has banks, ATMs and plenty of eateries. Most buses pick up and drop off passengers at ticket agents along the highway or at the pier.

8Getting There & Away

PT Bagus Holiday (%0812 8083 8222, 0625-41747) is one of several operators next to the ferry pier that arranges tourist minibuses and car transfers to the most popular destinations. Tourist minibuses go to Berastagi (150,000Rp, four hours), Bukittinggi (180,000Rp, 16 hours), Bukit Lawang (230,000Rp, six hours), Medan (80,000Rp to 100,000Rp, four hours), Padang (285,000, 18 hours) and Sibolga (100,000Rp, six hours).

Pulau Samosir

Trek, swim, explore traditional Batak villages, soak in hot springs, party or just chill with cool local people on Pulau Samosir. Your bus-beaten body will begin to unwind on the slow, 8km ferry cruise over to this volcanic isle. (It’s actually connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, but why quibble?) Tuk Tuk, the island’s resort town, has low prices, high value and heaps of tranquillity.

1Sights

King Sidabutar GraveHISTORIC SITE

(Samosir Island; admission by donation; hdawn-dusk)

The Batak king who adopted Christianity is buried in Tomok village, 5km southeast of Tuk Tuk. The king’s image is carved on his tombstone, along with those of his bodyguard and Anteng Melila Senega, the woman the king is said to have loved for many years without fulfilment. The tomb is also decorated with carvings of singa (mythical creatures with grotesque three-horned heads and bulging eyes). To get here, look out for the small brown signpost shortly after you pass through Tomok.

Stone ChairsHISTORIC SITE

(Samosir Island; admission by donation, guide 20,000Rp; h8am-6pm)

Ambarita, 5km north of Tuk Tuk, features a group of 300-year-old stone chairs where important matters were discussed among village elders. Here wrongdoers were tried and led to a further group of stone furnishings where they were bound, blindfolded, sliced, rubbed with garlic and chilli, and then beheaded.

Rumours abound that the story is the product of an overactive imagination and that the chairs are just 60 years old. On the premises you can peek into a traditional Batak kitchen.

Museum Huta Bolon SimanindoMUSEUM

(Samosir Island; admission 50,000Rp; h10am-5pm)

At Samosir’s northern tip, in the village of Simanindo, 15km north of Tuk Tuk, there’s a beautifully restored traditional house that now functions as a museum. It was formerly the home of Rajah Simalungun, a Batak king, and his 14 wives. The roof was originally decorated with 10 buffalo horns, representing the 10 generations of the dynasty. The museum has a small, interesting collection of brass cooking utensils, weapons, Mula Jadi sculptures and Batak carvings.

Lacklustre displays of traditional Batak dancing are performed at 10.30am from Monday to Saturday if enough people show up; audience participation tends to be required.

4Sleeping

The best sleeping options are along the north and south coasts. Little guesthouses are surrounded by hallmarks of village life, such as laundry drying on rocks and news being spread by neighbours.

Liberta HomestayGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451035; liberta_homestay@yahoo.com.co.id; r without bathroom 50,000Rp, with bathroom 70,000-90,000Rp; W)

This backpacker fave may have only limited lake views, but a chill universe is created here by a lush garden and arty versions of traditional Batak houses. Crawling around the balconies and shortened doors of the rooms makes you feel like being a deckhand on a Chinese junk (or a Hobbit). The popular Mr Moon is a great source of travel information.

Merlyn GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451057, 0813 6116 9130; Rio@merlynguesthouse.com; r 80,000-90,000Rp; W)

Situated right on the lake shore, this German-Indonesian-run place has traditional, characterful wooden Batak houses with dwarf-sized doors and shared bathrooms, as well as modern rooms in sunny colours with hot-water bathrooms.

Harriara GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451183; http://hariara-guesthouse.webs.com; Tuk Tuk; r 150,000Rp; W)

This guesthouse has a top-notch lakeside setting, riotous tropical flower gardens and sparkling rooms with mozzie nets and porches overlooking the water. There’s good swimming from that spot, too. If there’s nobody at reception enquire at the nearby restaurants.

Romlan GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451386; www.romlantuktuk.com; Tuk Tuk; r 80,000-150,000; aW)

Run by a German-Indonesian family, this waterfront guesthouse is one of the original places to stay in Tuk Tuk and it’s still going strong. Choose between a Western-style room with hot shower and verandah, one of two traditional Batak houses, or save your pennies in the budget room.

SPLURGE

German-run, lakeside Tabo Cottages ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451318; www.tabocottages.com; r 350,000-390,000, cottage 500,000-950,000Rp; aiW) has beautiful, traditional-style Batak houses, which come with huge bathrooms and hammocks swinging lazily on the terrace. The house-made cakes are worthy of mention as well.

5Eating & Drinking

The guesthouses tend to mix eating and entertainment in the evening. Most restaurants serve the Batak speciality of barbecued carp (most from fish farms). Magic or ‘special’ omelettes are commonly seen on restaurant menus. We probably don’t need to warn you that the mushrooms contained in these are not the sort that you can buy at your local supermarket.

oJenny’s RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tuk Tuk; mains 26,000-55,000Rp; h5-10pm)

There are lots of different options on the menu at Jenny’s, but one dish really shines – lake fish grilled right in front of you and served with chips and salad. Follow it up with the generously portioned fruit pancake. We enjoyed few meals in Sumatra more than this one.

Juwita CafeINDONESIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains 25,000-46,000Rp; hlunch & dinner)

This cosy family restaurant does Batak and other Indonesian dishes extremely well. We’re particularly big fans of the aubergine sambal. Friendly matriarch Heddy also hosts cooking courses; a three-hour course includes a chicken, fish and vegetable dish, as well as dessert. Book a day in advance.

Today’s CafeINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Tuk Tuk; mains 30,000-50,000Rp; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner; v)

This little wooden shack has a laid-back vibe in keeping with Tuk Tuk life. It’s run by a couple of friendly ladies who whip up some fabulous and eclectic dishes such as sak sang (chopped pork with brown coconut sauce, cream and a wealth of spices), aubergine curry and chapatis with guacamole.

6Drinking & Entertainment

On most nights, music and spirits fill the night air with the kind of camaraderie that only grows in small villages. The Toba Bataks are extremely musical, and passionate choruses erupt from invisible corners. The parties are all local – celebrating a wedding, a new addition on a house or the return of a Toba expat. Invitations are gladly given and should be cordially accepted.

Bagus Bay Homestay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451287; www.bagusbay.com; Tuk Tuk; s/d without bathroom 30,000/40,000Rp, d 100,000-175,000Rp; iW) and Samosir Cottages ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451170; www.samosircottages.com; Tuk Tuk; r 100,000-425,000Rp; iWs) both have traditional Batak music and dance performances on Wednesday and Saturday evenings at 8.15pm.

Brando’s Blues BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0625-451084; Tuk Tuk; h6pm-late)

One of a handful of foreigner-oriented bars that gets particularly lively on weekends. Happy hour is a civilised 6pm to 10pm and you can take to the small dance floor during the reggae and house sets.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Ferries between Parapat and Tuk Tuk (15,000Rp, 11 daily) operate about every hour from 8.30am to 7pm. Ferries stop at Bagus Bay (35 minutes); other stops are by request. The first and last ferries from Tuk Tuk leave at 7am and 5.30pm respectively; check exact times with your lodgings. When leaving for Parapat, stand on your hotel jetty and wave a ferry down. Fourteen ferries a day shuttle motorcycles and people between Parapat and Tomok (10,000Rp), from 7am to 7pm.

Bus

To get to Berastagi from Samosir by public bus, catch a bus from Tomok to Pangururan (16,000Rp, 45 minutes), then take another bus to Berastagi (48,000Rp, three hours). This bus goes via Sidikalang. Most guesthouses and travel agencies can pre-book the pricier, direct shared minibus tickets from Parapat for you.

8Getting Around

Local buses serve the whole of Samosir except Tuk Tuk. The peaceful, generally well-maintained (yet narrow) island roads are good for travelling by motorcycle (80,000Rp to 100,000Rp per day) or bicycle (30,000Rp per day); both are easily rented in Tuk Tuk. Minibuses run between Tomok and Ambarita (5000Rp), continuing to Simanindo (10,000Rp) and Pangururan (15,000Rp); flag them down on the main road. Services dry up after 5pm.

SOUTHERN SUMATRA

Aside from Krakatau and the ferry crossing to Java, southern Sumatra is something of a blank on the backpacker map, but the region hides plenty of enticing little secrets. Chief among these are the wild forests and swamps of the Way Kambas National Park to the northeast of Bandarlampung. It's home to very endangered elephants, rhinos and tigers.

If sun, sand and surf is more your thing, the laid-back village of Krui has your name all over it. Five hours’ drive from Bandarlampung, Krui has recently gained a serious name for itself among travelling surfers thanks to a coastline littered with world-class spots (many of them not beginner-friendly).

The main city in these parts, and a place you're certain to transit, is Bandarlampung. There's nothing much to see here but if you need to stay try the Grand Citihub Hotel @Kartini ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0721-240420; www.citihubhotels.com; Jl Kartini 41; r from 275,000Rp; naW). You’ve got several bus options for getting from here to Java. The most convenient option is the Damri ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0751-780 6335) bus-boat-bus combination ticket to Jakarta (184,000Rp, eight to 10 hours). Buses leave from Bandarlampung’s train station at 9am, 10am, 8pm and 9pm. Damri’s office is in front of Bandarlampung’s train station. Heading north through Sumatra there are a number of buses to Padang, Medan or elsewhere, but needless to say this is one very long bus ride.

Berastagi

%0628 / Pop 43,000

Escaping from the infernal heat of sea-level Medan, the colonial Dutch traders climbed high into the lush, cool volcanic hills, took one look at the stunningly verdant, undulating landscape and decided to build a rural retreat where Berastagi (also called Brastagi) now stands.

Beyond the town are the green fields of the Karo Highlands, dominated by two volcanoes: Gunung Sinabung (2450m) to the west and the smoking Gunung Sibayak (2094m) to the north. Each is a day hike, making them two of Sumatra’s most accessible volcanoes and the primary reason why tourists get off the bus in the first place.

1Sights & Activities

oGunung SibayakVOLCANO

(guide along the road 400,000Rp, through the jungle 650,000Rp)

At 2094m, Gunung Sibayak is one of Indonesia’s most accessible volcanoes. There are three ways to tackle the climb, depending on your energy level; a guide is only essential if taking the route through the jungle, but if you’re trekking alone it’s a good idea. The hike can be done in five hours return, and you should set out as early as possible.

LinggaVILLAGE

(admission 4000Rp)

The best-known and most visited of the villages around Berastagi is Lingga, a few kilometres northwest of Kabanjahe. There are about half-a-dozen traditional houses here with characteristic soaring thatched roofs topped with cattle horns. To get here, take a yellow KT minibus from Berastagi (7000Rp, 45 minutes). Some only go as far as Kabanjahe, so check first if you’ll have to change.

4Sleeping & Eating

Jl Veteran sees heavy traffic and many rooms along the main road can be very noisy. With one notable exception, the quality of accommodation in Berastagi leaves much to be desired.

The rich volcanic soils of the surrounding countryside supply much of North Sumatra’s produce, which passes through Berastagi’s colourful produce markets ( GOOGLE MAP ). Passionfruit is a local speciality, as is marquisa Bandung (a large, sweet, yellow-skinned fruit). The marquisa asam manis (a purple-skinned fruit) makes delicious drinks.

Guesthouse TalithaHOMESTAY$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0813 7066 4252; Jl Kolam Renang 60B; r incl breakfast 100,000-150,000Rp; W)

A 15-minute walk north of the centre is this tranquil family-run guesthouse. The rooms could use a facelift, but there are hot-water showers in the pricier rooms and the friendly owners perk you up with good home-brewed coffee.

oNachelle HomestayHOMESTAY$$

(%0813 6242 9977, 0821 6275 7658; nachellehomestay@gmail.com; r without bathroom 225,000Rp, r with bathroom 275,000-400,000Rp; W)

The friendliest of Berastagi’s lodgings is run by Mery and Abdy, who speak excellent English and will issue you with a map of the area; Abdy guides guests up Gunung Sibayak. Rooms are new and plush; the loveliest have king-sized beds and volcano views. Nachelle is 1.5km south of the giant cabbage on Jl Veteran; email for directions.

WORTH A TRIP

PULAU NIAS

Sitting off the west coast of Sumatra, the lonely island of Nias is home to one of the world’s best surf spots – the legendary righthander of Lagundri Bay. For nonsurfers the island also has much to offer: the traditional hill villages, such as Tundrumbaho and Bawomataluo, will captivate even casual cultural tourists as well as ethno-architectural buffs.

The waves of Teluk Lagundri (or more correctly Pantai Sorake), on the southwest corner of the island, are best between April and October. On smaller days it’s a fairly accessible wave for all but total beginners, but as soon as the swell starts to pick up, it becomes an experts-only barrel machine.

The point here is lined by a string of basic and almost identical losmen. The going rate is about 100,000Rp per night, but you're expected to eat at your losmen, too. And that’ll cost you – a plate of chicken or fish can fetch 50,000Rp. The owner of Lagundri Beach House (%0813 9656 7202; ian@lagundri.net; r 150,000-250,000Rp; aW) can arrange local tours.

To get to Nias you have the option of flying from Medan several times a day. The more romantic way of reaching the island is by ferry from the seedy mainland port of Sibolga. Ferries run daily from Sibolga to Gunung Sitoli, the ‘capital’ of Nias (80,000Rp), or, three times weekly to Teluk Dalam (100,000Rp) in the south of Nias (which is much closer to the surf).

8Information

Sibayak Trans Tour & TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0628-91122; dicksonpelawi@yahoo.com; Jl Veteran 119; h8am-5pm)

A solid port of call for almost any onward travel advice as well as local tours.

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0628-91084; Jl Gundaling 1; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

Has maps and can arrange trekking guides, as well as private transport to Medan, Danau Toba and Kutacane. Opening hours are rather flexible.

8Getting There & Away

The bus terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Veteran) is conveniently located near the centre of town. Long-distance buses pass through Berastagi en route to Kabanjahe, the local hub. You can catch buses to Medan’s Padang Bulan (15,000Rp, three to four hours) anywhere along the main street between 6am and 8pm.

The cheapest way to reach Danau Toba is to catch an angkot to Kabanjahe (5000Rp, 20 minutes), change to a bus for Pematangsiantar (28,000Rp, three hours), then connect with a Parapat-bound bus (15,000Rp, 1½ hours). For Bukit Lawang, take a bus to Pinangbari (13,000Rp, two hours) and change for Bukit Lawang (25,000Rp, three hours).

A couple of private companies run a shared minibus or car services, connecting Berastagi to Bukit Lawang (170,000Rp, three to four hours), Danau Toba (to Parapat; 150,000Rp, 3½ to four hours), Medan’s Padang Bulan (100,000Rp, 2½ hours) and Medan airport (150,000Rp, three hours).

Medan

%061 / Pop 2.2 million

Sumatra’s major metropolis, and Indonesia’s third-largest city, Medan is seen as a necessary evil by many Sumatra-bound travellers. It’s almost inevitably a place to pass through en route to more exciting destinations and also, for some, a welcome return to the trappings of ‘civilisation’ (ie modern malls and restaurants). It’s a brash urban sprawl, chocked by streams of cars and becaks, but it's also filled with real Indonesian character. So get over the culture shock, give Medan some time and discover an amenity-filled, modern city with crumbling Dutch-colonial-era charm and a couple of worthwhile museums.

Medan

1Sights

1Tjong A Fie MansionC2

4Sleeping

2Pondok Wisata AngelD4

3Residence HotelD4

5Eating

4Merdeka WalkB1

5Mie Tiong Sim Selat PanjangC2

1Sights

oMuseum of North SumatraMUSEUM

(Museum Negeri Privinci Sumatera Utara; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl HM Joni 51; admission 10,000Rp; h8am-4pm Tue-Thu, to 3.30pm Fri-Sun)

Housed in a striking traditional building, this museum has a well-presented collection ranging from early North Sumatran civilisations to Hindu, Buddhist and Islamic periods to Dutch colonial-era and military history. There are also sections devoted to traditional occupations such as fishing and farming. Highlights include fine stone carvings and extravagantly carved wooden dragon coffins from Nias, Batak scrolls for fending off misfortune, fine textiles and a kris (ornamental dagger) collection. It’s a short way east of the centre.

Tjong A Fie MansionHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Ahmad Yani 105; admission incl guide 35,000Rp; h9am-5pm)

The former house of a famous Chinese merchant who died in 1921 – formerly the wealthiest resident of Medan – mixes Victorian and Chinese style. The original hand-painted ceilings, Tjong’s huge bedroom, imported dark-wood furniture inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl, interesting art pieces, an upstairs ballroom and Taoist temples help to make it one of the most impressive historic buildings in town.

4Sleeping

Pondok Wisata AngelGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-732 0702; a_zelsy_travel@yahoo.com; Jl SM Raja 70; s with fan 70,000Rp, d with fan/air-con 100,000/130,000Rp; aW)

The best backpacker option in town. Angel’s clean rooms are a swirl of vivid blues and yellows, a colour scheme that almost succeeds in offsetting the noisy traffic. It has a sociable street-front cafe.

Residence HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %061-732 1249; www.residencehotelmedan.com; Jl Tengah 1; r 70,000-150,000Rp; aW)

The lime-green Residence has enough rooms, at a range of different prices, to mean that there’s usually something to suit both your mood and your pockets. Warning: the cheaper rooms are top-floor, windowless cells with a Dickensian prison vibe and they get hot. The pricier rooms are pleasant.

K77 Guest HouseGUESTHOUSE$$

(%061-736 7087, 0813 9653 8897; http://k77guesthousemedan.blogspot.com; Jl Seto 6B; r/f 250,000/300,000Rp; aW)

This backpacker haven is not in the city centre. Instead, you get a typical residential neighbourhood experience, and the hosts, Johan and Lola, go out of their way to make it a good one. Rooms are clean, snug and cool, and Johan can organise pickup and all manner of tours.

Gandhi InnHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-733 2330; www.gandhiinn.com; Jl Gandhi 125 A-B; r 338,000-598,000Rp; aW)

Decked out in sedate creams and browns, rooms at this budget (for Medan!) hotel are compact, comfortable and just a short walk from Thamsin Plaza Mall and the Pasar Ramai market. The owner and his team do their best to assist guests and recommend local culinary secrets. A place to chill out in between Sumatra adventures, do laundry and sleep.

5Eating

Medan has the most varied selection of cuisines in Sumatra, from basic Malay-style rice and noodle joints to top-class hotel restaurants.

oMerdeka WalkSOUTHEAST ASIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lapangan Merdeka, Jl Balai Kota; dishes 10,000-35,000Rp; h5-11pm; W)

Inspired by Singapore’s alfresco dining, this collection of outdoor eateries in Lapangan Merdeka offers everything from doughnut stalls and breezy sit-down restaurants serving grilled seafood and Malaysian-style noodles. There is also what may possibly be the world’s glitziest Pizza Hut.

Mie Tiong Sim Selat PanjangNOODLES$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Selat Panjang 7; meals around 70,000Rp; h10am-10pm)

This stall, on a street of food stalls, is locally (and justifiably) famous for its mie tiong sim (soft, handmade noodles topped with sweet, flavourful char siu pork). The chicken noodle is almost equally as good, as are the wontons. It’s behind the Hotel Swiss-Belinn.

Pasar RamaiMARKET$

(Ramani Market; GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Thamrin)

The main fruit market is a profusion of colour and smells, and has an impressive selection of local and imported tropical fruit. It’s next to Thamrin Plaza.

8Information

Kantor Imigrasi Kelas 1 PoloniaIMMIGRATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-453 3117; 2nd fl, Jl Mangkubumi 2; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)

For visa extensions. Technically the process takes three days, costs 350,000Rp and cannot be done until a few days before your current visa expires. Bring photocopies of your passport and Indonesian visa, as well as your onward ticket. The office you need is on the 2nd floor.

Rumah Sakit Columbia AsiaHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %061-456 6730; www.columbiaasia.com; Jl Listrik 2A; h24hr)

The best hospital in the city, with a 24-hour walk-in clinic and pharmacy, as well as English-speaking doctors and specialists.

8Getting There & Away

Air

You can fly from Medan to other Sumatran cities and major cities across Indonesia, as well as to Malaysia and Singapore.

Kualanamu International AirportAIRPORT

(%061-8888 0300; www.kualanamu-airport.co.id)

Opened in 2014, the international airport is 39km from the city centre and handily connected to central Medan by frequent trains and buses.

Bus

There are two main bus stations. Buses south leave from the Amplas bus terminal (Jl SM Raja), 6.5km south of downtown. Almost any opelet heading south on Jl SM Raja will get you to Amplas. A bemo from Amplas to the centre costs 5000Rp.

Buses to the north leave from Pinang Baris bus terminal (Jl Gatot Subroto), 10km west of the city centre. Get there by taxi (around 40,000Rp) or by opelet down Jl Gatot Subroto.

BUSES FROM MEDAN

Destination	Cost (Rp)	Duration (hr)	Frequency
Banda Aceh	150,000-210,000	12-14	Several daily
Bukittinggi	200,000-320,000	22	Several daily
Bukit Lawang	30,000	4-5	Twice daily
Parapat	30,000	5-6	Several daily

8Getting Around

The fastest and most comfortable way to reach central Medan from the airport is by air-conditioned train (100,000Rp, 45 minutes, 5am to 11.30pm). A taxi journey to the city centre is likely to set you back at least 150,000Rp.

Paradep (%061-77123029; one-way 60,000Rp) and Damri (%061-7865466; one-way 50,000Rp) shuttles pass through the city centre en route from the airport.

Becak journeys across the city centre cost between 15,000Rp and 20,000Rp. Angkots cost 5000Rp.

Bukit Lawang

%061 / Pop 30,000

This sweet little town, 96km northwest of Medan next to dense Sumatran jungle, is built around the popularity of its orangutan viewing centre. But Bukit Lawang has much more to offer beyond our red-haired cousins. It’s very easy to while away a few days lounging in hammocks, splashing in the river and hiking in the jungle. The forests surrounding Bukit Lawang are part of the vast Gunung Leuser National Park, which is one of the richest tropical-forest ecosystems in the word – and home to eight species of primate, plus tigers, rhinos, elephants and leopards.

However, aside from orangutans, baboons, various macaque species and the elusive Thomas leaf monkey, you’d have to be very lucky to see any other large mammals here, as palm oil plantations extend right up to the edge of the village. At weekends, when foreign tourists are joined by masses of domestic visitors, Bukit Lawang can feel rather overrun, so try to arrive on a weekday.

1Sights

oOrangutan Feeding CentreWILDLIFE RESERVE

(feedings 8.30-9.30am & 3-4pm)

Bukit Lawang’s famous orangutan centre was set up in 1973 to help primates readjust to the wild after captivity or displacement through land clearing. The twice-daily feedings, provided to semidependent orangutans, take place at a feeding platform, a 10-minute scramble up steep steps beyond the park office. The office is reached by an inflatable boat crossing upriver from the village. These feedings provide a wonderful close-up view of these magnificent creatures; no guide necessary.

2Activities

Treks into the Gunung Leuser National Park require a guide and can last anywhere from three hours to several days. Most people opt for two days so they can spend the night in the jungle, which increases their likelihood of seeing orangutans and other wildlife. It’s best to hike in the smallest group possible and to set off early.

Take your time in choosing a guide. Talk to returning hikers and decide how much jungle time you really need. Hiking in the jungle is no stroll in the park. You’ll encounter steep, slippery ascents and precipitous drops amid intense humidity, so a good level of fitness is essential.

GUNUNG LEUSER TREKKING FEES

Guide rates are fixed by the Sumatra Guide Association. Prices are based on a three-person minimum; singles and couples will still have to pay this amount.

Trek duration	Per person
Half-day	395,000Rp
1 day	550,000Rp
2 days	945,000Rp
3 days	1,340,000Rp

4Sleeping & Eating

The further upriver you go, the more likely you are to spot the swinging monkeys and apes from your porch hammock. You won’t find hot water, but all serve food.

Green HillGUESTHOUSE$

(%0813 7034 9124; www.greenhillbukitlawang.com; r incl breakfast 100,000-300,000Rp; W)

Run by an English conservation scientist and her Sumatran husband, Green Hill has three lovely stilt-high rooms ideal for couples, with ensuite bamboo-shoot showers that afford stunning jungle views while you wash, as well as a few-frills budget room. The restaurant serves some of the tastiest sambal in the village (among other dishes) and the service is friendly and prompt.

Back to NatureGUESTHOUSE$

(%0813 7540 0921, 0821 7055 6999; www.backtonature.asia; r 150,000-200,000Rp; W)S

Preserving a giant patch of jungle otherwise destined to become a oil-palm plantation, the eco-minded owner has built this lodge on a gorgeous bend in the river. The comfortable wooden rooms, raised off the ground on stilts, are a half-hour walk upstream from the river crossing for the orangutan feeding centre. Jungle treks and pick ups from Bukit Lawang are offered.

Rainforest GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

(Nora’s; %0813 6207 0656; www.bukitlawang.com; d 50,000-150,000Rp)

This cluster of wooden rooms set close to the gurgling river equals backpacker bliss. Cheaper rooms have a mattress on the floor and shared bathrooms, but pricier rooms come with bathrooms and fans. There’s a friendly dining area (with Western meals like pasta, burgers and all the rest) and it’s a super place to hook up with other travellers.

Garden InnGUESTHOUSE$

(%0813 9600 0571; www.bukitlawang-garden-inn.com; r 100,000-250,000Rp; W)

A popular backpacker choice, the ever-growing Garden Inn empire spreads over several buildings, which house a variety of different rooms, from cosy, wooden jungle shacks to pristine, modern white rooms. There’s a sweet little cafe for swapping ape-spotting tales.

8Information

The nearby village of Gotong Royong, 2km southeast of Sungai Bohorok, is where most of the nontourist-related facilities can be found. If you arrive by public bus it’s about a 1km walk north to where the Bukit Lawang accommodation begins. There are no banks, but you’ll find moneychangers along the strip.

Bukit Lawang Visitors CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(h7am-3pm)

Park tickets are sold here. There’s also displays of the flora and fauna found in Gunung Leuser National Park, plus a book of medicinal plants and their uses. Past visitors often record reviews of guides in the sign-in book. It’s located down in the heart of the village.

8Getting There & Away

Direct public buses go to Medan’s Pinang Baris bus terminal (30,000Rp, four hours, half-hourly) between 5.30am and 5pm. There are also tourist minibuses (120,000Rp, three hours, daily at 8am).

For Berastagi, there’s a daily public bus (38,000Rp, six to seven hours) and tourist bus (170,000Rp, four to five hours, daily 8.30am) Tourist minibuses also go to Medan Airport (190,000Rp, around four hours, daily 8am) and Parapat (for Danau Toba; 180,000Rp, six hours, daily 8.30am).

Tangkahan

The word is out: tiny Tangkahan has become synonymous with elephants, and visitors trickle in from nearby Bukit Lawang and Medan to get up close and personal with the mighty pachyderms.

Tangkahan is not so much a village as a bus stop, a park entrance and a handful of basic riverside bungalows on the wild banks of the Kualsa Buluh River. A small community of amiable loggers-turned-guides lives on the edge of untamed jungle.

2Activities

Elephant InteractionELEPHANT INTERACTION

(elephant bathing 250,000Rp; helephant bathing 8.30am & 3.30pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun)

For many, the elephants are the main draw in Tangkahan. While elephant rides are available here, consider opting for the more sustainable (and pachyderm-friendly) option of giving them their daily bath. On Mondays, Thursdays and public holidays there are no elephant-based activities. Elephant activities are booked directly through the CTO visitor centre.

4Sleeping & Eating

Mega InnGUESTHOUSE$

(%0813 7021 1009; www.mega-inn-tangkahan.op-het-web.be; r 200,000Rp)

The first place you come to after the river crossing has pretty bungalows made of twisted wood. Some of the bathrooms contain such a mass of foliage they could almost be classed as jungles themselves. The restaurant is a good spot for gobbling down fried noodles.

Dreamland ResortBUNGALOW$

(%0812 6963 1400; bungalow 150,000-170,000Rp; a)

Run by two friendly, young brothers who speak good English, Dreamland has three appealing A-frame cottages with private bathroom sitting partially hidden amid lush greenery. The cafe gives you a bird’s-eye view of the river.

8Information

CTO Visitor CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

(%0852 7560 5865, 0813 6142 3245; www.tangkahanecotourism.com; h8am-4pm)

Across the river from the lodges and near the bus terminal, this visitor centre organises everything from elephant bathing to jungle treks and caving; pay your fees here.

8Getting There & Away

Two direct, daily buses go to Medan’s Pinang Baris terminal (20,000Rp, four hours) at 5.30am and 7.30am.

To get to Tangkahan from Bukit Lawang, you have two options. The slow, cheap, roundabout way: take one of the many buses to Binjai (12,000Rp to 15,000Rp, 2½ hours), then connect to one of the twice-daily buses directly to Tangkahan (30,000Rp, 2½ hours) if you time it well, or take a bus to Tittamangga (26,000Rp, two hours) and from there hop on the back of a motorcycle to Tangkahan (70,000Rp). The fast, pricier way: get a guide to take you directly from Bukit Lawang on a motorcycle (one way/return 200,000/300,000Rp, two hours) – but be warned that the road is unpaved. Alternatively, team up with other travellers to hire a 4WD (550,000Rp to 650,00Rp, 2½ hours).

GETTING TO MALAYSIA: DUMAI TO MELAKA

Getting to the border Dumai is a busy and charmless port on Sumatra's north coast. Bus services to Dumai include those from Bukittinggi (160,000Rp, 10 hours, 7pm daily) and Padang (150,000Rp, 12 hours, frequent). High-speed ferries make the trip from Dumai to Melaka daily (one-way about 350,000Rp, 1¾ hours).

At the border Nationals of most countries are given a 30- or 60-day visa on arrival, depending on the expected length of stay.

Moving on Melaka is a large and popular city with connections to the rest of Malaysia.

Banda Aceh

%0651 / Pop 223,000

Indonesian cities are rarely coupled with pleasant descriptions, but Banda Aceh breaks the mould. The laidback provincial capital is a pleasant enough spot to spend a couple of days. (Pedestrians will notice with delight that the city has actual pavements.) Given that Banda Aceh bore the brunt of the 2004 tsunami, with 61,000 killed here (of 170,000 across the province), and that much of the city had to be rebuilt, it’s little wonder that it looks well maintained and affluent.

Banda Aceh is a fiercely religious city and the ornate mosques are at the centre of daily life. Respectfully dressed visitors shouldn’t face any hassles and most travellers find the Acehnese to be friendly and extremely hospitable.

1Sights

oTsunami MuseumMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Iskandar Muda; h9am-4.15pm Sat-Thu, noon-2pm Fri)F

A visit to this hard-hitting museum commences with a walk through a dark, dripping tunnel that symbolises the tsunami waves, with plaintive, terrified voices and the sound of rushing water all around you. This is followed by a powerful set of images of the devastation projected from tombstone-like receptacles, and a circular chamber engraved with the names of the lost. Upstairs a very graphic short film is aired, along with photographs of rebuilding, loss, hopefulness, displacement and reunited families.

Mesjid Raya BaiturrahmanMOSQUE

( GOOGLE MAP ; admission by donation; h7-11am & 1.30-4pm)

With its brilliant-white walls, ebony-black domes and towering minaret, the 19th-century Mesjid Raya Baiturrahman is a dazzling sight. The best time to visit the mosque is during Friday afternoon prayers, when the entire building and yard are filled with people. A headscarf is required for women.

4Sleeping & Eating

There is very little in the way of budget accommodation here; the cheapies on Jl Khairil Anwar don’t seem to accept foreign guests. Shoestringers may find themselves racing straight through Banda Aceh and out to the mellower prices of Pulau Weh.

oHotel SeiHOTEL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-21866; www.seihotelaceh.com; Jl Tanoh Abe 71, Kampung Mulia; d 550,000Rp; paW)

This new lemon-yellow hotel down a quiet side street is one of Banda Aceh’s swankiest options. Expect compact rooms with reliable wi-fi, the Arctic chill of the air-con, a pleasant respite from the outdoors, as well as friendly but erratic service and a seemingly deserted but actually decent restaurant.

Linda’s HomestayHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0823 6436 4130, 0811 680 305; http://lindas-homestay.blogspot.com; Jl Mata Lorong Rahmat 3, Lambneu Barat; r 350,000-400,000Rp; aW)

Staying in the home of hospitable Linda, 4km out of town, is a good way of experiencing local life and many travellers rave about her. Linda cooks up a storm of Acehnese food and her sons are on hand to give you a tour of the city. However, some travellers report misunderstandings about prices and ensuing bad feelings.

Rumah Makan Spesifik AcehINDONESIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl T Hasan Dek; mains from 30,000Rp; h11am-10pm)

An excellent introduction to Acehnese cuisine, with such delights as asam keeng (hot and sour soup), mie aceh (spicy noodle dish), udang goreng kunyit (turmeric shrimp), and curried fish.

8Information

Note that women will need to fully cover up in Aceh. Also, religious police have arrested publicly affectionate gay couples (and sent them for 're-education').

Regional Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(Dinas Parawisata; GOOGLE MAP ; %0651-852020; www.bandaacehtourism.com; Jl Chik Kuta Karang 3)

The staff are exceptionally friendly and sometimes have free copies of an excellent guidebook to the province. On the 1st floor of a government building.

8Getting There & Away

There are several flights a day from Banda Aceh to Medan with Garuda, Sriwiyaya and Lion Air. Air Asia (www.airasia.com) flies daily to Kuala Lumpur, and Firefly (www.fireflyz.com.my) to Penang in Malaysia.

South of the city centre you’ll find the Terminal Bus Bathoh ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Mohammed Hasan), which has numerous buses to Medan. Ekonomi buses (175,000Rp, 14 hours) depart at 4pm, while eksekutif buses leave all day (230,000Rp, 12 hours).

Air

Banda Aceh’s Sultan Iskandar Muda International Airport (BTJ) is 16km southeast of the centre. Destinations include Jakarta, Kuala Lumpur, Medan and Penang.

Boat

Boats serving Pulau Weh depart from the port at Uleh-leh, 5km northwest of Banda Aceh’s city centre.

Bus

Terminal Bus Bathoh is located 2km south of the city centre. Large buses to Medan aside, most accommodation can arrange for the relevant minibus to pick you up.

Destination	Cost (Rp)	Duration (hr)	Frequency
Ketambe/Kutacane	220,000	15-18	daily
Medan	210,000	12	hourly until 10pm
Singkil	230,000	15	daily

8Getting Around

Taxis from the airport to the city centre charge around 100,000Rp. A taxi from the airport to the Uleh-leh port will cost around 130,000Rp.

Labi labi are the main form of transport around town and cost 2500Rp. The labi labi terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; Jl Diponegoro) is that special breed of Indonesian mayhem.

From the bus terminal, a becak into town will cost around 25,000Rp. A becak around town should cost between 10,000Rp and 20,000Rp, depending on your destination.