Environment

Environmental consciousness is low in Vietnam. Rapid industrialisation, deforestation and pollution are major problems facing the country.

Unsustainable logging and farming practices, as well as the extensive spraying of defoliants by the US during the war, have contributed to deforestation. This has resulted not only in significant loss of biological diversity, but also in a harder existence for many minority people.

The country’s rapid economic and population growth over the last decade – demonstrated by the dramatic increase in industrial production, motorbike numbers and helter-skelter construction – has put additional pressure on the already-stressed environment.

The Land

Vietnam stretches more than 1600km along the east coast of the Indochinese peninsula. The country’s land area is 329,566 sq km, making it slightly larger than Italy and a bit smaller than Japan.

As the Vietnamese are quick to point out, it resembles a don ganh, or the ubiquitous bamboo pole with a basket of rice slung from each end. The baskets represent the main rice-growing regions of the Red River Delta in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south.

Of several interesting geological features found in Vietnam, the most striking are its spectacular karst formations (limestone peaks with caves and underground streams). The northern half of Vietnam has a spectacular array of karst areas, particularly around Halong Bay and Phong Nha.

Wildlife

We’ll start with the good news. Despite some disastrous bouts of deforestation, Vietnam’s flora and fauna is still incredibly exotic and varied. The nation has an estimated 12,000 plant species, only 7000 of which have been identified; more than 275 species of mammal; 800 species of bird; 180 species of reptile; and 80 species of amphibian. The other side of the story is that despite this outstanding diversity, the threat to Vietnam’s remaining wildlife has never been greater due to poaching, hunting and habitat loss. Three of the nation’s iconic animals – the elephant, the saola and the tiger – are on the brink. It’s virtually certain that the last wild Vietnamese rhino was killed inside Cat Tien National Park in 2010. And for every trophy animal there are hundreds of other less ‘headline’ species that are being cleared from forests and reserves for the sake of profit (or hunger).

Many officials still turn a blind eye to the trade in wildlife for export and domestic consumption, though laws are in place to protect the animals. Poachers continue to profit from meeting the demand for exotic animals for pets and traditional medicines.

National Parks

There are 31 national parks and over 150 nature reserves; officially, 9% of the nation’s territory is protected. In the North the most interesting and accessible include Cat Ba, Bai Tu Long, Ba Be and Cuc Phuong. Heading south Phong Nha-Ke Bang, Bach Ma National Park, Yok Don National Park and Cat Tien National Park are well worth investigating.

POLLUTION WOES

Vietnam has a serious pollution problem. In Ho Chi Minh City the air quality is punishing, while Hanoi is the most contaminated city in Southeast Asia. Vehicles discharge such toxic substances as sulphur dioxide and nitrogen oxide. Motorbikes are the main culprits, all running on low-quality fuel that has choking levels of benzene, sulphur and microscopic dust (PM10). Particulate (dust, grime) matter in Hanoi is around 150 micrograms per cu metre, whereas the World Health Organization recommends a limit of 20.

Water pollution affects many regions, particularly the cities and coastal areas (where groundwater has become saline due to over-exploitation). Manufacturers have flooded into Vietnam to build clothing, footwear and food-processing plants, but most industrial parks have no waste-water treatment plants. The result is that discharge has caused biological death for rivers like the Thi Van. Nationwide only 14% of all city waste water is treated.

Toxic and industrial waste is illegally imported along with scrap for use as raw materials for production and for re-export. Enforcement is lax, though some violators have been fined.

Survival Guide

8Directory A–Z

Accommodation

In general, accommodation in Vietnam offers superb value for money and excellent facilities. In big cities and the main tourism centres you’ll find everything from hostel dorm beds to luxe hotels. Cleanliness is generally good and there are very few real dumps.

Most hotels in Vietnam quote prices in Vietnamese dong and/or US dollars.

Hostel dorm beds (around US$5 to US$10) are usually the cheapest options, but these only exist in the main backpacker centres. Guesthouses are the next level up, and rooms here often have private bathrooms and cost from around US$9 to US$20. A class above guesthouses, minihotels typically come with more amenities, such as satellite TV.

When it comes to midrange places, flash a bit more cash and three-star touches are available, such as chic decor or access to a swimming pool.

Be aware that some hotels apply a 10% sales tax.

Accommodation is at a premium during Tet (late January or early February), when the whole country is on the move and overseas Vietnamese flood back into the country. Prices can rise by 25% or more. Christmas and New Year represent another high season.

Price Ranges

The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom in high season.

A$ less than 560,000d (US$25)

A$$ 560,000d to 1,680,000d (US$25 to US$75)

A$$$ more than 1,680,000d (US$75)

HOMESTAYS

Homestays are popular in parts of Vietnam. These are usually well organised in specific villages, including several minority areas. Often the accommodation is in a longhouse or communal space with people sleeping on roll-up mattresses.

Areas that are well set up include Vinh Long in the Mekong Delta, the Cham islands, Mai Chau and Ba Be National Park.

Children

Children get to have a good time in Vietnam. There are some great beaches, but pay close attention to any playtime in the sea.

Kids generally enjoy local cuisine, which is rarely too spicy; the range of fruit is staggering. Comfort food from home (pizzas, pasta, burgers and ice cream) is available in most places too.

With babies and infants, the main worry is keeping an eye on what they're putting in their mouths: dysentery, typhoid and hepatitis are common.

Keep hydration levels up, and slap on the sunscreen.

Electricity

Voltage is 220V, 50 cycles. Sockets are two pin, round head.

Embassies & Consulates

Australian EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3774 0100; www.vietnam.embassy.gov.au; 8 Ð Dao Tan, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi)

Australian ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3521 8100; www.hcmc.vietnam.embassy.gov.au; 20th fl, Ð 47 Ly Tu Truong, Vincom Center, Ho Chi Minh City)

Cambodian EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; camemb.vnm@mfa.gov.kh; 71A P Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi)

Cambodian ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3829 2751; camcg.hcm@mfa.gov.kh; 41 Ð Phung Khac Khoan, HCMC)

Canadian EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/vietnam; 31 Ð Hung Vuong, Hanoi)

Canadian ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3827 9899; hochi@international.gc.ca; 10th fl, 235 Ð Dong Khoi, HCMC)

Chinese EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-8845 3736; http://vn.china-embassy.org/chn; 46 P Hoang Dieu, Hanoi)

Chinese ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3829 2457; http://hcmc.chineseconsulate.org; 175 Ð Hai Ba Trung, HCMC)

French EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3944 5700; www.ambafrance-vn.org; P Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi)

French ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.consulfrance-hcm.org; 27 Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, HCMC)

German EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3845 3836; www.hanoi.diplo.de; 29 Ð Tran Phu, Hanoi)

German ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3829 1967; www.ho-chi-minh-stadt.diplo.de; 126 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu, HCMC)

Japanese EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3846 3000; www.vn.emb-japan.go.jp; 27 P Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi)

Japanese ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3933 3510; www.hcmcgj.vn.emb-japan.go.jp; 261 Ð Dien Bien Phu, HCMC)

Laotian EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3942 4576; www.embalaohanoi.gov.la; 22 P Tran Binh Trong, Hanoi)

Laotian ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3829 7667; 93 Ð Pasteur, HCMC)

Netherlands EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3831-5650; www.hollandinvietnam.org; 7th fl, BIDV Tower, 194 Ð Tran Quang Khai, Hanoi)

Netherlands ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3823 5932; www.hollandinvietnam.org; Saigon Tower, 29 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC)

New Zealand EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3824 1481; www.nzembassy.com/viet-nam; Level 5, 63 P Ly Thai To, Hanoi)

New Zealand ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3822 6907; www.nzembassy.com; 8th fl, The Metropolitan, 235 Ð Dong Khoi, HCMC)

Thai EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3823 5092; www.thaiembassy.org; 3-65 P Hoang Dieu, Hanoi)

Thai ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3932 7637; www.thaiembassy.org/hochiminh; 77 Ð Tran Quoc Thao)

UK EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3936 0500; http://ukinvietnam.fco.gov.uk; 4th fl, Central Bldg, 31 P Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi)

UK ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3829 8433; consularenquiries.vietnam@fco.gov.uk; 25 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC)

US EmbassyEMBASSY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3850 5000; http://vietnam.usembassy.gov; 7 P Lang Ha, Ba Dinh District, Hanoi)

US ConsulateCONSULATE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %08-3822 9433; http://hochiminh.usconsulate.gov; 4 ÐL Le Duan, HCMC)

Food

The following price ranges are based on a typical meal, excluding drinks.

A$ less than 112,000d (US$5)

A$$ 112,000d to 337,000d (US$5 to US$15)

A$$$ more than 337,000d (US$15)

Insurance

Travel insurance is a must for Vietnam, as the cost of major medical treatment is prohibitive. A policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is the best bet.

If you’re driving a vehicle you'll need a Vietnamese insurance policy.

Worldwide travel insurance is available at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-insurance. You can buy, extend or claim anytime – even if you’re already on the road.

Internet Access

Internet and wi-fi is very widely available throughout Vietnam. Connection speeds in towns and cities are normally quite good.

Something like 98% of hotels and guesthouses have wi-fi; it's almost always free of charge. Cybercafes charge from 3000d per hour for internet access.

Legal Matters

Very few foreigners experience any hassle from police. If you lose something really valuable such as your passport or visa, you'll need to contact them. Note you may face imprisonment and/or large fines for drug offences, and drug trafficking can be punishable by death.

LGBT Travellers

Vietnam is pretty hassle-free for gay travellers. There’s not much in the way of harassment, nor are there official laws on same-sex relationships. VietPride (www.vietpride.com) marches have been held in Hanoi and HCMC since 2012. Gay weddings were officially authorised in 2015 (though their legal status has not yet been recognised). Checking into hotels as a same-sex couple is perfectly OK. But be discreet – public displays of affection are not socially acceptable whatever your sexual orientation.

Check out Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) for contacts and useful travel information.

Money

The Vietnamese currency is the dong (abbreviated to ‘d’). US dollars are also widely used.

For the last few years the dong has been fairly stable at around 22,000d to the dollar.

ATMs are widespread and present in virtually every town in the country.

Tipping is not expected, but is appreciated.

Credit & Debit Cards

Visa and MasterCard are accepted in many tourist centres, but don’t expect noodle bars to take plastic. Commission charges (around 3%) sometimes apply.

For cash advances, try branches of Vietcombank in cities or Sinh Tourist travel agencies. Expect at least a 3% commission for this service.

Opening Hours

Vietnamese people rise early and consider sleeping in to be a sure indication of illness. Lunch is taken very seriously and many government offices close between 11.30am and 2pm.

ABanks 8am to 3pm weekdays, to 11.30am Saturday

AOffices and museums 7am or 8am to 5pm or 6pm; museums generally close on Monday

ARestaurants 11.30am to 9pm

AShops 8am to 6pm

ATemples and pagodas 5am to 9pm

Public Holidays

If a Vietnamese public holiday falls on a weekend, it is observed on the following Monday.

ANew Year’s Day (Tet Duong Lich) 1 January

AVietnamese New Year (Tet) A three-day national holiday; late January or February

AFounding of the Vietnamese Communist Party (Thanh Lap Dang CSVN) 3 February

AHung Kings Commemorations (Hung Vuong) 10th day of the 3rd lunar month; late March or April

ALiberation Day (Saigon Giai Phong) 30 April

AInternational Workers’ Day (Quoc Te Lao Dong) 1 May

AHo Chi Minh’s Birthday (Sinh Nhat Bac Ho) 19 May

ABuddha’s Birthday (Phat Dan) Eighth day of the fourth lunar month (usually June)

ANational Day (Quoc Khanh) 2 September

Safe Travel

All in all, Vietnam is an extremely safe country to travel. Sure, there are scams and hassles in some cities, particularly in Hanoi and Nha Trang. But overall the police keep a pretty tight grip on social order and we very rarely receive reports about muggings, armed robberies and sexual assaults.

Watch out for petty theft. Drive-by bag snatchers on motorbikes are not uncommon, and thieves patrol buses, trains and boats. Don’t be flash with cameras and jewellery.

Since 1975 many thousands of Vietnamese have been maimed or killed by rockets, artillery shells, mortars, mines and other ordnance left over from the war. Stick to defined paths and never touch any suspicious war relic you might come across.

Time

Vietnam is seven hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time/Universal Time Coordinated (GMT/UTC). There’s no daylight-saving or summer time.

Toilets

Western-style sit-down toilets are the norm, but the odd squat bog still survives in some cheap hotels and bus stations.

Tourist Information

Tourist offices in Vietnam have a different philosophy from the majority of tourist offices worldwide. Most are really travel agencies whose primary interests are booking tours and turning a profit.

Travellers’ cafes, travel agencies and your fellow travellers are a much better source of information than most of the so-called tourist offices.

Travellers with Disabilities

Vietnam is not the easiest of places for travellers with disabilities. Tactical problems include the chaotic traffic, a lack of lifts in smaller hotels, and pavements (sidewalks) that are routinely blocked by parked motorbikes and food stalls.

That said, with some careful planning it is possible to enjoy your trip. Find a reliable company to make the travel arrangements. Many hotels in the midrange and above category have elevators, and disabled access is improving. Bus and train travel is tough, but rent a private vehicle with a driver and almost anywhere becomes instantly accessible.

The hazards for blind travellers in Vietnam are acute, with traffic coming at you from all directions, so you’ll definitely need a sighted companion.

The Travellers with Disabilities forum on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to seek advice.

You might also try contacting the following organisations:

Mobility International USA www.miusa.org

Royal Association for Disability Rights http://disabilityrightsuk.org

Society for AccessibleTravel & Hospitality www.sath.org

Useful Websites

AVietnam Coracle (http://vietnamcoracle.com) Excellent independent travel advice.

AThe Word (www.wordhcmc.com) Comprehensive Vietnam coverage and excellent features.

AThanh Nien News (www.thanhniennews.com) Government-approved news, but includes diverse and interesting content.

ALonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/vietnam) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

AVietnam Online (www.vietnamonline.com) Good all-rounder.

Visas

The (very complicated) visa situation is fluid – always check the latest regulations.

Firstly, if you are staying more than 15 days and are from a Western country you'll still need a visa (or approval letter from an agent). If your visit is under 15 days, some nationalities are now visa exempt.

Note that travellers using a visa exemption cannot extend their stay at the end of the visa exemption period and must leave Vietnam, and cannot return again using a visa exemption within 30 days.

If you are from a non-visa-exempted country (say the USA, Australia or New Zealand) or you wish to stay longer in Vietnam than your permitted period, or you wish to enter and leave Vietnam multiple times, you will need to apply for a visa in advance.

Tourist visas are valid for either 30 days or 90 days. A single-entry 30-day visa costs US$25, a three-month multiple entry visa is US$50.

There are two methods of applying for a visa: via online visa agents, or via a Vietnamese embassy or consulate.

VISA EXEMPTED NATIONALITIES

Citizens of the following countries do not need a Vietnamese visa if staying less than the permitted period (when arriving by either air or land). Always double-check visa requirements before you travel as policies change regularly.

Country	Days
Brunei, Myanmar	14
Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore and Thailand	30
Philippines	21
Belarus, Denmark, Finland , France, Germany, Italy, Japan, South Korea, Norway, Russia, Spain, Sweden and UK	15

Vietnam Visa Agents

This is now the preferred method for most travellers arriving by air, since it's cheaper, faster and you don't have to part with your passport by posting it to an embassy. It can only be used if you are flying into any of Vietnam's five international airports, not at land crossings. The process is straightforward: you fill out an online application form and pay the agency fee (around US$20). You'll then receive by email a Visa on Arrival approval letter signed by Vietnamese immigration which you print out and show on arrival (and then pay your visa fee). There are many visa agents, but we recommend you stick to well-established companies; these two are professional and efficient:

AVietnam Visa Choice (www.vietnamvisachoice.com) Online support from native English speakers and they guarantee your visa will be issued within the time specified.

AVietnam Visa Center (www.vietnamvisacenter.org) Competent all-rounder which offers a two-hour express service for last-minute trips.

Visas via an Embassy or Consulate

You can also obtain visas through Vietnamese embassies and consulates around the world but fees are normally higher than using a visa agent, and (depending on the country) the process can be slow. In Asia, Vietnamese visas tend to be issued in two to three working days in Cambodia; in Europe and North America, it takes around a week.

Multiple-Entry Visas

It’s possible to enter Cambodia or Laos from Vietnam and then re-enter without having to apply for another visa. However, you must hold a multiple-entry visa.

If you arrived in Vietnam on a single-entry visa, multiple-entry visas are easiest to arrange in Hanoi or HCMC, but you will have to ask a visa or travel agent to do the paperwork for you. Agents charge about US$50 and the procedure takes up to seven days.

Visa Extensions

Tourist visa extensions officially cost as little as US$10, and have to be organised via agents. The procedure can take seven days and you can only extend the visa for 30 or 90 days, depending on the visa you hold.

You can extend your visa in big cities, but if it's done in a different city from the one you arrived in it'll cost you around US$30. In practice, extensions work most smoothly in HCMC, Hanoi, Danang and Hue.

Volunteering

Opportunities for voluntary work are quite limited in Vietnam.

The NGO Resource Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3832 8570; www.ngocentre.org.vn; Room 201, Building E3, 6 Dang Van Ngu, Trung Tu Diplomatic Compound, Dong Da, Hanoi) keeps a database of all of the NGOs assisting Vietnam.

KOTO (www.koto.com.au) helps give street children career opportunities in its restaurants in Hanoi and HCMC; volunteers need a three-month minimum commitment.

Work

At least 90% of foreign travellers seeking work in Vietnam end up teaching English, though some dive centres and hostels need workers.

8Getting There & Away

Most travellers enter Vietnam by plane or bus, but there are also train links from China and boat connections from Cambodia via the Mekong River.

Entering Vietnam

Formalities at Vietnam’s international airports are generally smoother than at land borders. Crossing the border between Vietnam and Laos can be particularly slow.

Passport

Your passport must be valid for six months upon arrival in Vietnam. Many nationalities have to arrange a visa in advance.

Air

Airports

There are three main international airports in Vietnam. Phu Quoc also has flights to Cambodia and Singapore.

Tan Son Nhat International AirportAIRPORT

(%08-3848 5383; www.tsnairport.hochiminhcity.gov.vn/vn; Tan Binh District)

For Ho Chi Minh CIty.

Noi Bai AirportAIRPORT

(%04-3827 1513; www.hanoiairportonline.com)

Danang AirportAIRPORT

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0511-383 0339)

International flights to Nanning (China) with China Southern Airlines; to Hong Kong with Dragonair; to Siem Riep (Cambodia) and Singapore with Silk Air; and to Pakse, Savannakhet and Vientiane (all in Laos) with Lao Airlines.

Border Crossings

Vietnam shares land border crossings with Cambodia, China and Laos. For those nationalities that qualify, visa exemptions are now available at land borders. Officials at border crossings occasionally ask for an ‘immigration fee’ of a dollar or two.

Cambodia

Cambodia and Vietnam share a long frontier with seven border crossings. One-month Cambodian visas are issued on arrival at all border crossings for US$30, but overcharging is common at all borders except Bavet.

Cambodian border crossings are officially open daily between 8am and 8pm.

China

There are three borders where foreigners are permitted to cross between Vietnam and China: Huu Nghi Quan (the Friendship Pass), Lao Cai and Mong Cai. It is necessary to arrange a Chinese visa in advance.

China time is one hour ahead.

Laos

There are seven overland crossings between Vietnam and Laos. Thirty-day Lao visas are available at all borders.

The golden rule is to try to use direct city-to-city bus connections between the countries, as potential hassle will be greatly reduced. If you travel step-by-step using local buses expect hassle and transport scams (eg serious overcharging) on the Vietnamese side.

Transport links on both sides of the border can be hit and miss, so don’t use the more remote borders unless you have plenty of time, and patience, to spare.

8Getting Around

Air

Vietnam has good domestic flight connections, and very affordable prices (if you book early). Airlines accept bookings on international credit or debit cards. However, note that cancellations are not unknown.

Jetstar Airways Serves 16 airports in Vietnam.

Vasco (%038 422 790; www.vasco.com.vn) Connects HCMC with the Con Dao Islands and the Mekong Delta.

Vietjet Air Serves 15 domestic airports

Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com.vn) Comprehensive coverage of the entire nation.

Bicycle

Bikes are a great way to get around Vietnam, particularly when you get off the main highways.

The main hazard is the traffic, and it’s wise to avoid certain areas (notably Hwy 1). Some of the best cycling is along quiet coastal roads in Central Vietnam, in the Southwest Highlands and up in the northern mountains (although you’ll have to cope with some big hills here). The Mekong Delta is a rewarding option for those who like it flat.

Bicycles can be rented from guesthouses from US$1 per day while good-quality mountain bikes cost from US$10.

Boat

In the North, cruises on Halong Bay or Lan Ha Bay area are extremely popular and should not be missed. Hydrofoils also connect Haiphong with Cat Ba Island (near Halong Bay). Day trips by boat to islands off the coast of Nha Trang and to the Chams off Hoi An are also worthwhile.

The extensive network of canals in the Mekong Delta makes getting around by boat feasible. Travellers to Phu Quoc Island can catch ferries from Ha Tien or Rach Gia.

Bus

Vietnam has an extensive network of buses that reach the far-flung corners of the country. Modern buses, operated by myriad companies, run on all the main highways.

Many travellers (perhaps the majority) never actually visit a Vietnamese bus station at all, preferring to stick to the convenient, tourist-friendly open-tour bus network.

Whichever class of bus you’re on, bus travel in Vietnam is never speedy; reckon on just 50km/h on major routes including Hwy 1.

Bus Stations

Many cities have several bus stations – make sure you go to the right one! Bus stations all look chaotic, but many now have ticket offices with official prices and departure times displayed.

Reservations & Costs

Always buy a ticket from the office, as bus drivers are notorious for overcharging. Reservations aren’t usually required for most of the frequent, popular services between towns and cities.

On rural runs foreigners are typically charged anywhere from twice to 10 times the going rate. As a benchmark, a typical 100km ride should be between US$2 and US$3.

Bus Types

On most popular routes, modern air-conditioned buses offer comfortable reclining seats, while sleeper buses have flat beds for really long trips.

Deluxe buses are nonsmoking. On the flip side, most of them are equipped with blaring TVs and even karaoke.

Connecting backpacker haunts across the nation, open-tour buses are wildly popular in Vietnam. These air-con buses use convenient, centrally located departure points and allow you to hop on and hop off at any major city along the main north to south route. Prices are reasonable. An open-tour ticket from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi costs between US$30 and US$75; the more stops you add, the higher the price. Sinh Tourist (%08-3838 9597; www.thesinhtourist.com) has a good reputation, with computerised seat reservations and comfortable buses.

Local buses in the countryside are slow and stop frequently. Conductors tend to routinely overcharge foreigners on these local services.

Car & Motorcycle

Having your own set of wheels gives you maximum flexibility to visit remote regions and stop when and where you please. Car hire always includes a driver. Motorbike hire is good value and this can be self-drive or with a driver.

Driving Licence

Foreigners are now permitted to drive in Vietnam with an International Drivers' Permit (IDP). However, this must be combined with local insurance for it to be valid.

The reality on the ground has always been that foreigners are never asked for IDPs by police, and no rental places ever ask to see one. However, this may change with the new law.

Car & Minibus

Renting a vehicle with a driver is a realistic option (even for budget travellers) if you share the cost.

Costs per day:

AStandard model US$50 to US$100

A4WD/minibus US$100 to US$130

Motorbike

Motorbikes can be rented from virtually anywhere, including cafes, hotels and travel agencies. Some places will ask to keep your passport as security. Ask for a signed agreement stating what you are renting, how much it costs, the extent of compensation and so on.

It is compulsory to wear a helmet when riding a motorbike in Vietnam, even when travelling as a passenger.

Costs per day:

AMoped US$5 to US$10

ATrail and road bikes US$15 to US$30

Plenty of local drivers will be willing to act as a chauffeur and guide for about US$20 per day.

Insurance

If you're using a rental bike the owners should have insurance. If you're considering buying a vehicle, Baoviet (www.baoviet.com.vn) has a third-party fire and theft coverage policy which includes liability for 87,000d.

Many rental places will make you sign a contract agreeing to a valuation for the bike if it is stolen. Make sure you always leave it in guarded parking where available.

Road Conditions & Hazards

Road safety is definitely not one of Vietnam’s strong points. Vehicles drive on the right-hand side (in theory). Size matters and small vehicles get out of the way of big vehicles. Accidents are common.

In general, the major highways are hard surfaced and reasonably well maintained, but seasonal flooding can be a problem. Nonpaved roads are best tackled with a 4WD vehicle or motorbike. Mountain roads are particularly dangerous: landslides, falling rocks and runaway vehicles can add an unwelcome edge to your journey.

Local Transport

Cyclos

These are bicycle rickshaws. Drivers hang out in touristy areas and some speak broken English. Bargaining is imperative; settle on a fare before going anywhere. A short ride should be 10,000d to 20,000d.

Taxis

Metered taxis are found in all cities and are very, very cheap by international standards and a safe way to travel around at night. Average tariffs are about 12,000d to 15,000d per kilometre. Mai Linh (www.mailinh.vn) and Vinasun (www.vinasuntaxi.com) are two excellent nationwide firms.

Xe Om

Motorbike taxis are everywhere. Fares should be about half that of a taxi. Drivers hang around street corners, markets, hotels and bus stations.

Tours

These Vietnam-based travel agencies offer great tours:

Handspan Travel Indochina (%04-3926 2828; www.handspan.com) A wide range of innovative, interesting tours to seldom-visited regions.

Ocean Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-3926 0463; www.oceantours.com.vn; 22 P Hang Bac) Heads to Ba Be National Park and has a great Thousand Island tour of Halong Bay.

Buffalo Tours ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.buffalotours.com) Offers diverse and customised trips.

Train

The railway system, operated by Vietnam Railways (Duong Sat Viet Nam; %04-3747 0308; www.vr.com.vn), is an ageing, slow, but pretty dependable service, and offers a relaxing way to get around the nation. Travelling in an air-con sleeping berth sure beats a hairy overnight bus journey along Hwy 1. And there’s spectacular scenery to lap up too.

Routes

The main line connects HCMC with Hanoi. Three rail-spur lines link Hanoi with other parts of northern Vietnam: Haiphong, Lang Son and Lao Cai.

'Fast' trains between Hanoi and HCMC take between 32 and 36 hours.

Classes & Costs

Trains classified as SE are the smartest and fastest. There are four main ticket classes: hard seat, soft seat, hard sleeper and soft sleeper. These classes are further split according to whether or not they have air-conditioning. Presently, air-con is only available on the faster express trains. Hard-seat class is usually packed. It's tolerable for day travel, but expect plenty of cigarette smoke.

Ticket prices vary depending on the train; the fastest trains are the most expensive.

Reservations

You can buy tickets in advance from Vietnam Railways bookings site (http://dsvn.vn), but at the time of research only Vietnamese credit cards were accepted. However, you can book online using the travel agency Bao Lau (www.baolau.vn), which has an efficient website, details seat and sleeper berth availability and accepts international cards. E-tickets are emailed to you, there's a 40,000d commission per ticket.

You can reserve seats/berths on long trips 60 to 90 days in advance (less on shorter trips). Most of the time you can book train tickets a day or two ahead without a problem, except during peak holiday times. But for sleeping berths, it’s wise to book a week or more before the date of departure.

Many travel agencies, hotels and cafes will also buy you train tickets for a small commission.