Around Dalat

1Sights

Truc Lam Pagoda & Cable CarBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(Ho Tuyen Lam; cable car one way/return adult 50,000/70,000d, child 30,000/40,000d; icon-hoursgifhcable car 7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm)

The Truc Lam Pagoda enjoys a hilltop setting and has splendid gardens. It's an active monastery, though the grounds frequently teem with tour groups. Be sure to arrive by cable car (the terminus is 3km south of the centre), which soars over majestic pine forests.

The pagoda can be reached by road via turn-offs from Hwy 20.

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

icon-phonegif%08 / Pop pop 7.4 million

Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is Vietnam at its most dizzying: a high-octane city of commerce and culture. A chaotic whirl, the city breathes life and vitality into all who settle here – visitors cannot help but be hauled along for the ride.

Wander through alleys to ancient pagodas or teeming markets, past ramshackle wooden shops selling silk and spices, before fast-forwarding into the future beneath skyscrapers and mammoth malls. The ghosts of the past live on in the churches, temples, former GI hotels and government buildings that one generation ago witnessed a city in turmoil.

Put simply, there’s nowhere else quite like it. Saigon has it all.

23-hcmc-sea18

1Sights

Dong Khoi Area

This well-heeled area, immediately west of the Saigon River, is a swish enclave of designer stores and fashionable restaurants, concrete towers and tree-lined boulevards.

icon-top-choiceoNotre Dame CathedralCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ð Han Thuyen; icon-hoursgifhMass 9.30am Sun)

Built between 1877 and 1883, Notre Dame Cathedral enlivens the heart of Ho Chi Minh City's government quarter, facing Ð Dong Khoi. A brick, neo-Romanesque church with 40m-high square towers tipped with iron spires, the Catholic cathedral is named after the Virgin Mary. Interior walls are inlaid with devotional tablets and some stained glass survives. English-speaking staff dispense tourist information from 9am to 11am Monday to Saturday. If the front gates are locked, try the door on the side facing the Reunification Palace.

HCMC MuseumMUSEUM

(Bao Tang Thanh Pho Ho Chi Minh; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn; 65 Ð Ly Tu Trong; admission 15,000d; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm)

A grand, neoclassical structure built in 1885 and once known as Gia Long Palace (and later the Revolutionary Museum), HCMC’s city museum is a singularly beautiful and impressive building, telling the story of the city through archaeological artefacts, ceramics, old city maps and displays on the marriage traditions of its various ethnicities. The struggle for independence is extensively covered, with most of the upper floor devoted to it.

Central Post OfficeHISTORIC BUILDING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Cong Xa Paris)

Right across the way from Notre Dame Cathedral, Ho Chi Minh City's striking French post office is a period classic, designed by Gustave Eiffel and built between 1886 and 1891. Painted on the walls of its grand concourse are fascinating historic maps of South Vietnam, Saigon and Cholon, while a mosaic of Ho Chi Minh takes pride of place at the end of its barrel-vaulted hall. Note the magnificent tiled floor of the interior and the copious green-painted wrought iron.

Da Kao & Around

icon-top-choiceoJade Emperor PagodaTAOIST TEMPLE

(Phuoc Hai Tu, Chua Ngoc Hoang; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 73 Ð Mai Thi Luu; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm, on 1st & 15th of lunar month 5am-7pm)icon-freeF

Built in 1909 in honour of the supreme Taoist god (the Jade Emperor or King of Heaven, Ngoc Hoang), this is one of the most spectacularly atmospheric temples in Ho Chi Minh City, stuffed with statues of phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes. The pungent smoke of huong (incense) fills the air, obscuring the exquisite woodcarvings. Its roof encrusted with elaborate tile work, the temple's statues, depicting characters from both Buddhist and Taoist lore, are made from reinforced papier mâché.

icon-top-choiceoHistory MuseumMUSEUM

(Bao Tang Lich Su; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem; admission 15,000d; icon-hoursgifh8-11.30am & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun)

Built in 1929 by the Société des Études Indochinoises, this notable Sino-French museum houses a rewarding collection of artefacts illustrating the evolution of the cultures of Vietnam, from the Bronze Age Dong Son civilisation (which emerged in 2000 BC) and the Funan civilisation (1st to 6th centuries AD), to the Cham, Khmer and Vietnamese. The museum is just inside the main gate to the city’s botanic gardens and zoo.

Botanic GardensGARDENS

(Thao Cam Vien; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem; 50,000d incl entry to zoo; icon-hoursgifh7am-7pm)

One of the first projects undertaken by the French after establishing Cochinchina as a colony was founding these fantastic, lush gardens. Once one of the finest such gardens in Asia, they’re very agreeable for strolling beneath giant tropical trees, including towering Tung and So Khi trees. Also equipped with a miserable zoo, the gardens are next to the History Museum.

23-hcmc-reunification-sea18

Hcmc Reunification Test

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Sleeping

Reunification Palace & Around

icon-top-choiceoWar Remnants MuseumMUSEUM

(Bao Tang Chung Tich Chien Tranh; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3930 5587; www.baotangchungtichchientranh.vn; 28 Ð Vo Van Tan, cnr Ð Le Quy Don; admission 15,000d; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm)

Formerly the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, the War Remnants Museum is consistently popular with Western tourists. Few museums anywhere convey the brutality of war and its civilian victims. Many of the atrocities documented here were well-publicised but rarely do Westerners hear the victims of US military action tell their own stories. While some displays are one-sided, many of the most disturbing photographs illustrating US atrocities are from US sources, including those of the infamous My Lai Massacre.

icon-top-choiceoReunification PalaceHISTORIC BUILDING

(Dinh Thong Nhat; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3829 4117; www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn; Ð Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; adult/child 30,000/5000d; icon-hoursgifh7.30-11am & 1-4pm)

Surrounded by royal palm trees, the dissonant 1960s architecture of this government building and the eerie mood that accompanies a walk through its deserted halls make it an intriguing spectacle. The first Communist tanks to arrive in Saigon rumbled here on 30 April 1975 and it’s as if time has stood still since then. The building is deeply associated with the fall of the city in 1975, yet it's the kitsch detailing and period motifs that steal the show.

Mariamman Hindu TempleHINDU TEMPLE

(Chua Ba Mariamman; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 45 Ð Truong Dinh; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-7.30pm)

Only a small number of Hindus live in HCMC, but this colourful slice of southern India is also considered sacred by many ethnic Vietnamese and Chinese. Reputed to have miraculous powers, the temple was built at the end of the 19th century and dedicated to the Hindu goddess Mariamman. Remove your shoes before stepping onto the slightly raised platform and ignore any demands to buy joss sticks and jasmine. The temple is three blocks west of Ben Thanh Market.

Cholon

Cholon, 5km southwest of the centre, forms the city’s Chinatown. The district has a wealth of wonderful Chinese temples including Thien Hau Pagoda (Ba Mieu, Pho Mieu, Chua Ba Thien Hau; GOOGLE MAP ; 710 Ð Nguyen Trai), dedicated to Thien Hau (Tianhou), the Chinese goddess of the sea, and the fabulously ornamental Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda ( GOOGLE MAP ; 184 Ð Hong Bang), built in 1902 by the Fujian Chinese congregation. Quan Am Pagoda (Chua Quan Am; GOOGLE MAP ; 12 Ð Lao Tu) has a roof decorated with fantastic scenes, rendered in ceramic, from traditional Chinese plays and stories.

CCourses

Saigon Cooking ClassCOOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3825 8485; www.saigoncookingclass.com; 74/7 ÐL Hai Ba Trung; per adult/child under 12yr US$39/25; icon-hoursgifh10am & 2pm Tue-Sun)

Watch and learn from the chefs at Hoa Tuc as they prepare three mains (including pho bo – beef noodle soup – and some of their signature dishes) and one dessert. A market visit is optional (per adult/child under 12 years US$45/28, including a three-hour class).

Cyclo RestoCOOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0975 513 011; www.cycloresto.com.vn; 6/28 Ð Cach Mang Thang Tam; per person US$29)

Fun and informative three-hour cooking class, including a cyclo trip to the Thai Binh Market near Pham Ngu Lao.

TTours

HCMC has some excellent quirky tours, with themes as diverse as street food and the city's art scene.

XO ToursCULTURAL

(icon-phonegif%0933 083 727; www.xotours.vn; from US$45)

Wearing ao-dai (traditional dress), these girls run scooter/motorbike foodie, sights and Saigon by night tours: super hospitable and fantastic fun.

Saigon UnseenTOUR

(www.saigonunseen.com; from US$25)

Motorbike tours around local markets and off-the-beaten path parts of HCMC and around.

4Sleeping

Virtually all budget travellers head straight to the Pham Ngu Lao area. Saigon’s backpacker precinct has more than 100 places to stay, most with rooms between US$10 and US$35, and even the odd dorm. Some hotels with Ð Pham Ngu Lao or Ð Bui Vien addresses are located in alleys off those main streets.

icon-top-choiceoLily's HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0948 213 181; lilyhostel.hcm@gmail.com; 35/5 Ð Bui Vien; dm/d US$8/26; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

One of the new breed of modern hostels popping up in Pham Ngu Lao, Lily's has a warm and welcoming ambience courtesy of the elegant and soothing decor. Located in a quiet lane just off bustling Ð Bui Vien, Lily's easily bridges the gap between hostel and boutique guesthouse. Some private rooms have flat-screen TV and a minibar.

icon-top-choiceoMadame Cuc 127GUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3836 8761; www.madamcuchotels.com; 127 Ð Cong Quynh; US$20-30; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

The original and by far the best of the three hotels run by the welcoming Madame Cuc and her friendly and fantastic staff. Rooms are clean and spacious.

The Hideout HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3838 9147; www.vietnamhideouthostels.com; 281 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; dm US$8; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

A new PNL hostel, this time with an emphasis on good times and meeting other travellers. Dorms are spick and span with bright colours, two free beers per day are on offer at the Hideout Bar next door, and the hostel also runs pub crawls three times a week that are free for guests (US$2 for nonguests).

Diep AnhGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3836 7920; dieptheanh@hcm.vnn.vn; 241/31 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r US$20-25; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

A step above most PNL guesthouses, figuratively and literally (think thousand-yard stairs), Diep Anh’s tall and narrow shape makes for light and airy upper rooms. The gracious staff ensure they’re kept in good nick.

Giang SonGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3837 7547; www.guesthouse.com.vn; 283/14 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r US$20-30; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Tall and thin, with three rooms on each floor, a roof terrace and charming service, Giang Son’s sole downer is that there’s no lift. Consider upgrading to a room with window.

Town House 50GUESTHOUSE, HOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3925 0210; www.townhousesaigon.com; 50e Ð Bui Thi Xuan; dm US$11, s/d/tr US$20/35/45; icon-non-smokinggifnicon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Part guesthouse and part boutique hotel, Town House 50 offers stylish accommodation down a quiet laneway on a street with good restaurants and cafes. All dorms and rooms are nonsmoking, and the decor is clean and modern. Rates include a cooked breakfast, and the team at reception have loads of local information on offer.

Hong Han HotelGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3836 1927; www.honghanhotel.com.vn; 238 Ð Bui Vien; r US$18-30; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

A corker guesthouse (seven floors, no lift), Hong Han has front rooms with ace views and smaller, quieter and cheaper rear rooms, plus free breakfast served on the 1st-floor terrace.

PP BackpackersHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0939 815 799; www.ppbackpackers.com.vn; Ɖ 283/41 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; dm US$7, d US$16-18; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Very helpful, friendly and efficient staff at this cheap and welcoming hostel where you can nab a dorm bed or fork out a bit more for an affordable double room.

Liberty Hotel Saigon GreenviewHOTEL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3836 9522; www.odysseahotels.com/saigongreenview; 187 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r from US$47; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Recently refurbished in a cool and classy mix of soothing neutral colours and natural wood, Liberty's Saigon Greenview is one of Pham Ngu Lao's flasher accommodation options. Rooms at the front have views of the 23/9 park on the northern edge of Saigon's backpacker district.

5Eating

HCMC is the reigning culinary king of Vietnam. Restaurants here range from dirt-cheap sidewalk stalls to atmospheric villas. Besides brilliant Vietnamese fare, Saigon offers world cuisine, with Indian, Japanese, Thai, French, Spanish and Korean all on offer.

The Dong Khoi area has many top-quality restaurants. Pham Ngu Lao’s eateries are generally less memorable, though there are exceptions.

To really discover more of the city’s great street food, a tour is an excellent option.

Dong Khoi Area

Secret GardenVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 8th fl, 158 Ð Pasteur; meals 55,000-80,000d; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm; icon-veggifv)

Negotiate the stairs in this faded Saigon apartment building to arrive at Secret Garden's wonderful rooftop restaurant. Rogue chickens peck away in the herb garden, Buddhist statues add Asian ambience, and delicious homestyle dishes are served up with city views. Service can sometimes be a little too casual, but it's worth persevering for the great flavours.

5Ku StationBARBECUE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 29 Ɖ Le Thanh Thon; meals around 100,000d; icon-hoursgifh4pm-late)

Hopping with evening diners, this chain of makeshift-looking alfresco barbecue restaurants is fun, boisterous, outgoing and tasty. Grab yourself a wooden box seat, a cold beer and chow down on BBQ and hotpot alongside a mix of locals, travellers and expats.

Huong LaiVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3822 6814; www.huonglai2001saigon.com; 38 Ð Ly Tu Trong; meals 55,000-160,000d; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)

A must for finely presented, traditional Vietnamese food, the airy and high-ceilinged loft of an old French-era shophouse is the setting for dining with a difference. Staff are from disadvantaged families or are former street children and receive on-the-job training, education and a place to stay.

PropagandaVIETNAMESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3822 9048; www.propagandasaigon.com; Ð 21 Han Thuyen; meals 95,000-185,000d; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-10.30pm)

Colourful murals and retro Socialist posters brighten up this popular bistro with park views. The menu focuses on street food classics from around Vietnam, all enjoyed with a bustling and energetic ambience. Salads are particularly good – try the wild pepper and green mango salad with BBQ chicken – and retreat to the 1st floor if downstairs is too crowded.

SPLURGE

The Racha Room ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0908 791 412; www.facebook.com/theracharoom; 12-14 Ð Mac Thi Buoi; shared plates 195,000-320,000d; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-midnight) is one of the city's most hip eateries. Thai street food underpins the diverse menu of bar snacks (40,000d to 150,000d) and shared plates, but effortlessly stretches to include neighbouring countries as well. Asian-inspired cocktails ensure the Racha Room is also one of the city's best bars. Pop in for happy hour from 5pm to 7.30pm.

Da Kao & Around

Pho HoaVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 260c Ð Pasteur; meals 60,000-75,000d; icon-hoursgifh6am-midnight)

This long-running establishment is more upmarket than most but is definitely the real deal – as evidenced by its popularity with regular local patrons. Tables come laden with herbs, chilli and lime, as well as gio chao quay (fried Chinese bread), banh xu xe (glutinous coconut cakes with mung-bean paste) and cha lua (pork-paste sausages wrapped in banana leaves).

Banh Xeo 46AVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3824 1110; 46a Ð Dinh Cong Trang; regular/extra large 70,000/110,000d; icon-hoursgifh10am-9pm; icon-veggifv)

Locals will always hit the restaurants that specialise in a single dish and this renowned spot serves some of the best banh xeo in town. These Vietnamese rice-flour pancakes stuffed with bean sprouts, prawns and pork (vegetarian versions available) are legendary. Other dishes available include excellent goi cuon (fresh summer rolls with pork and prawn) .

23-hcmc-pham-ngu-lao-sea18

Pham Ngu Lao Area

6Drinking & Nightlife

13Le PubA2

7Shopping

15OrangeB4

8Information

Transport

17SapacoA5

Pham Ngu Lao Area

Five OystersVIETNAMESE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fiveoysters.com; 234 Ð Bui Vien; meals from 35,000d; icon-hoursgifh9am-11pm)

With a strong seafood slant and friendly service, light and bright Five Oysters in backpackerland is frequently packed with travellers feasting on oysters (30,000d), grilled octopus, seafood soup, snail pie, pho, fried noodles, grilled mackerel with chilli oil and more. Bargain-priced beer also makes it a popular spot along the PNL strip.

An Lac ChayVEGETARIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Upstairs, 175/1 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; meals 35,000-100,000d; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm; icon-veggifv)

Head upstairs at the rear of the Margherita restaurant to An Lac Chay, a purely vegetarian restaurant offering an eclectic range of tasty choices, from Vietnamese sour soup through to four-cheese pizzas and Mexican dishes.

CorianderTHAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Ð Bui Vien; meals 50,000-180,000d; icon-hoursgifh11am-2pm & 5-11pm)

The blonde-wood furniture and cheap bamboo wallpaper do Coriander few favours, but the menu is stuffed with authentic Siamese delights. The lovely fried doufu (tofu) is almost a meal in itself, the green curry is zesty, and the claypot seafood fried rice is excellent.

Dinh YVEGETARIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 171b Ð Cong Quynh; meals from 30,000d; icon-hoursgifh6am-9pm; icon-veggifv)

Run by a friendly Cao Dai family, this humble eatery is in a very ‘local’ part of PNL near Thai Binh Market. The food is delicious and cheap.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Action is concentrated around the Dong Khoi area, with everything from dives to designer bars. However, places in this zone generally close around 1am while Pham Ngu Lao rumbles on into the wee hours.

HCMC’s hippest club nights include the semi-regular Everyone’s a DJ (www.facebook.com/everyonesadj) loft party and Beats Saigon (www.facebook.com/pages/The-Beats-Saigon/207148399324751).

Dong Khoi Area

icon-top-choiceoPasteur Street Brewing CompanyCRAFT BEER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pasteurstreet.com; 144 Ð Pasteur; small/large beer from 45,000/95,000d; icon-hoursgifh11am-10pm; icon-wifigifW)

Proving there's hoppy life beyond 333 lager, Pasteur Street Brewing turns out a fine selection of excellent craft beer. Brews utilise local ingredients, including lemongrass, rambutan and jasmine, and up to six different beers are always available. Great bar snacks – try the spicy Nashville fried chicken – are also served in Pasteur Street's hip upstairs tasting room.

The WorkshopCOFFEE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/the.workshop.coffee; 10 Ð Ngo Duc Ke; coffee from 45,000d; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm; icon-wifigifW)

Coffee-geek culture comes to HCMC at this spacious upstairs warehouse space that's also perfect if you need to do some writing or other work. Single-origin fair-trade roasts from Dalat feature, and there's a great display of B&W photos of old Saigon to peruse while you're waiting for your Chemex or cold brew.

VesperBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/vespersaigon; Ground fl, Landmark Bldg, 5b Ɖ Ton Duc Thang; icon-hoursgifh11am-late Mon-Sat)

From the sinuous curve of the hardwood bar to the smoothly arranged bottles on the shelves, soft chill-out rhythms, funky caramel leather furniture and fine tapas menu, Vesper is a cool spot by the river. There's a roadside terrace, but traffic noise is epic.

Apocalypse NowCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3824 1463; www.facebook.com/apocalypsenowsaigon; 2C Ð Thi Sach; icon-hoursgifh7pm-2am)

‘Apo’ has been around since 1991 and remains one of the must-visit clubs. A sprawling place with a big dance floor and an outdoor courtyard, the bar's eclectic cast combines travellers, expats, Vietnamese movers and shakers, plus the odd working girl. The music is thumping and it’s apocalyptically rowdy. The 150,000d weekend charge gets you a free drink.

Broma: Not a BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/bromabar; 41 Ð Nguyen Hue; icon-hoursgifh5pm-2am)

Compact and bohemian rooftop bar overlooking the busy pedestrian mall of Ð Nguyen Hue. Look forward to a good selection of international beers, live gigs, and DJs with a funk, hip-hop and electronica edge.

Pham Ngu Lao Area

The ViewBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theviewrooftopbar.com; 8th fl, Duc Vuong Hotel, 195 Ð Bui Vien; icon-hoursgifh10am-midnight Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat & Sun)

Not as elevated as other rooftop bars around town, but less pretentious, and a whole lot easier on the wallet. It's still a good escape to look down on the heaving backpacker bustle of Pham Ngu Lao, and the food menu is also good value.

Le PubPUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3837 7679; www.lepub.org; 175/22 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; icon-hoursgifh9am-2am; icon-wifigifW)

The name says it all – British pub meets French cafe-bar – and the pomegranate-coloured result, ranging over three floors, is a hit. An extensive beer list, nightly promotions, cocktail jugs and pub grub draw in the crowds. The surrounding lane is becoming popular with a local after-dark crowd.

3Entertainment

Pick up the Word HCMC, Asialife HCMC or the Guide to find out what’s on during your stay in Saigon, or log onto www.anyarena.com or www.thewordhcmc.com.

icon-top-choiceoAcousticLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3930 2239; www.facebook.com/acousticbarpage; 6e1 Ð Ngo Thoi Nhiem; icon-hoursgifh7pm-midnight; icon-wifigifW)

Don’t be misled by the name: most of the musicians are fully plugged and dangerous when they take to the intimate stage of the city’s leading live-music venue. And judging by the numbers that pack in, the crowd just can’t get enough. It's at the end of the alley by the up-ended VW Beetle, and the cocktails are deceptively strong.

icon-top-choiceoCargoLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/cargosaigon; Ɖ 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh; icon-hoursgifh3pm-midnight Wed-Sun)

Hugely popular spacious warehouse venue for up-and-coming local acts, regional bands and DJ events backed up by a great sound system; it's across the river in District 4.

Saigon RangerLIVE MUSIC

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/saigonranger; 5/7 Ð Nguyen Sieu; icon-hoursgifh3pm-late Tue-Sun)

Centrally located just a short stroll from Lam Son Park, Saigon Ranger is a raffish live music and performance venue with different acts from Tuesday to Sunday. Look forward to an eclectic roster of performers – including rock, blues and Latin sounds – with most gigs kicking off around 9pm.

Golden Dragon Water Puppet TheatreWATER PUPPETS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3930 2196; 55b Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai; ticket US$7.50)

Saigon's main water-puppet venue, with shows starting at 5pm, 6.30pm and 7.45pm and lasting about 50 minutes.

7Shopping

Among the tempting wares to be found in Saigon are embroidered silk shoes, miniature cyclos and fake Zippos engraved with GI philosophy. Boutiques along Ð Le Thanh Ton and Ð Pasteur sell handmade ready-to-wear fashion. In Pham Ngu Lao, shops sell ethnic-minority fabrics, handicrafts, T-shirts and various appealing accessories.

Ben Thanh Market (Cho Ben Thanh; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ÐL Le Loi, ÐL Ham Nghi, ÐL Tran Hung Dao & Ð Le Lai) has both everyday items and a lucrative tourist trade.

Mekong QuiltsARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-2210 3110; www.mekong-quilts.org; 1st fl, 68 ƉL Le Loi; icon-hoursgifh9am-7pm)icon-sustainableS

For beautiful handmade silk quilts, sewn by the rural poor in support of a sustainable income.

Giant Step Urban Art GalleryART

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0126 415 4338; 3a Ð Ton Duc Thang; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm Mon-Sat)

Excellent gallery and retail outlet focusing on street art. Find it on Facebook to see what exhibitions are scheduled. The surrounding laneways are also packed with street art.

Saigon KitschGIFTS & SOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 33 Ð Ton That Thiep; icon-hoursgifh9am-10pm)

This colourful store specialises in reproduction propaganda posters, emblazoning its revolutionary motifs on coffee mugs, coasters, jigsaws and T-shirts. Also cool laptop and tablet covers fashioned from recycled Vietnamese packaging.

OrangeFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 180 Ð Bui Vien; icon-hoursgifh9am-10pm)

Funky T-shirts and bags.

Mai HandicraftsARTS & CRAFTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3844 0988; www.facebook.com/maivietnamesehandicrafts; 298 Ð Nguyen Trong Tuyen, Tan Binh District; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat)icon-sustainableS

A fair-trade shop dealing in ceramics, ethnic fabrics and other gift items that, in turn, support disadvantaged families and street children. To get here, head northwest on ÐL Hai Ba Trung, which becomes Ð Phan Dinh Phung and turn left on Ð Nguyen Trong Tuyen.

8Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Be careful in the Dong Khoi area and along the Saigon riverfront, where motorbike ‘cowboys’ operate and specialise in bag, phone, tablet and camera snatching.

Internet Access

Most hotels, cafes, restaurants and bars have free wi-fi. Internet cafes are everywhere.

Medical Services

International SOSHOSPITAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3829 8520; www.internationalsos.com; 167a Ð Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; icon-hoursgifh24hr)

Has an international team of doctors who speak English, French, Japanese and Vietnamese.

Money

CitibankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 115 ÐL Nguyen Hue)

Citibank in the foyer of the Sun Wah Tower dispenses 8,000,000d, but only for Citibank cards (2,000,000d for other cards).

Post

Central Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Cong Xa Paris; icon-hoursgifh7am-9.30pm)

Right across from Notre Dame Cathedral is the city's magnificent central post office.

Travel Agencies

Dozens of travel agents offer tours of the Mekong Delta and other jaunts beyond HCMC. Some of the better ones include the following:

Handspan Adventure TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3925 7605; www.handspan.com; 10th fl, Central Park Bldg, 208 Nguyen Trai)

Excellent, high-quality tours from this HCMC branch of the Hanoi-based travel agency.

Sinh TouristTRAVEL AGENCY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3838 9593; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 246 Ð De Tham; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-10.30pm)

Budget travel agency.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Jetstar Pacific AirlinesAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%1900 1550; www.jetstar.com/vn/en/home)

Flies to/from Hanoi, Hai Phong, Vinh, Hue, Phu Quoc, Nha Trang, Buon Ma Thuot, Dong Hoi and Danang.

Vietjet AirAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%1900 1886; www.vietjetair.com)

Flies to/from Hanoi, Haiphong, Vinh, Dong Hoi, Hue, Danang, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang, Dalat, Buon Ma Thuot and Phu Quoc Island.

Vietnam Air Service CompanyAIRLINE

(VASCO; icon-phonegif%08-3845 8017; www.vasco.com.vn)

Flies to/from Rach Gia, Con Dao Islands and Ca Mau.

Vietnam AirlinesAIRLINE

(icon-phonegif%08-3832 0320; www.vietnamairlines.com)

Flies to/from Hanoi, Hai Phong, Vinh, Dong Hoi, Hue, Danang, Quy Nhon, Nha Trang, Dalat, Buon Ma Thuot, Pleiku, Rach Gia and Phu Quoc Island.

Bus

Intercity buses operate from two main bus stations around HCMC. Local buses (from 4000d) travelling to the intercity bus stations leave from the local bus station opposite Ben Thanh Market.

Open-tour buses conveniently depart and arrive in the Pham Ngu Lao area and are used by most backpackers. Many travellers buy a ticket to Hanoi (from US$45 to US$70) but you can also do short hops to destinations including Mui Ne, Nha Trang and Dalat. Sinh Tourist is a good company.

Plenty of international bus services connect HCMC and Cambodia, most with departures from the Pham Ngu Lao area. Sapaco ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3920 3623; www.sapacotourist.vn; 325 Ð Pham Ngu Lao) has nine direct daily services to Phnom Penh (230,000d, six hours, departing between 6am and 3pm), as well as one to Siem Reap (450,000d, 12 hours, 6am).

Mien Dong Bus StationBUS

(Ben Xe Mien Dong; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%08-3829 4056)

Buses to locations north of HCMC leave from the immensely huge and busy Mien Dong bus station, in Binh Thanh district, about 5km from central HCMC on Hwy 13 (Quoc Lo 13; the continuation of Ð Xo Viet Nghe Tinh). The station is just under 2km north of the intersection of Ð Xo Viet Nghe Tinh and Ð Dien Bien Phu. Note that express buses depart from the eastern side, and local buses connect with the western side of the complex.

Mien Tay Bus StationBUS

(Ben Xe Mien Tay; icon-phonegif%08-3825 5955; Ð Kinh Duong Vuong)

This bus station serves all areas south of HCMC, which basically means the Mekong Delta. This huge station is about 10km west of HCMC in An Lac, a part of Binh Chanh district (Huyen Binh Chanh). Buses and minibuses from Mien Tay serve most towns in the Mekong Delta, using air-conditioned express buses and premium minibuses.

Car

Hotels and travellers’ cafes can arrange car rentals (from US$50 per day).

Train

Trains from Saigon Train Station (Ga Sai Gon; icon-phonegif%08-3823 0105; 1 Ð Nguyen Thong, District 3; icon-hoursgifhticket office 7.15-11am & 1-3pm) head north to many destinations. Purchase tickets from travel agents for a small booking fee at the train station.

TRANSPORT FROM HCMC

Destination Air Bus Train
Dalat 50min, from US$41 7hr, US$11-15
Nha Trang 55min, from US$22 12hr, US$10-20 6½hr, US$14-32
Hue 80min, from US$48 29hr, US$26-37 18hr, US$17-44
Hanoi 2hr, from US$62 41hr, US$39-49 30hr, US$47-69

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Tan Son Nhat Airport is 7km northwest of central HCMC. Metered taxis cost around 180,000d to/from the centre. Stick to either Mai Linh or Vinasun taxis.

Air-conditioned buses (route 152; 6000d, every 15 minutes 6am to 6pm) also run to and from the international airport terminal. These make regular stops along Ð De Tham (Pham Ngu Lao area) and at international hotels along Ð Dong Khoi.

Cyclo

Cyclos are an interesting way to get around, but overcharging tourists is the norm. Short hops are 30,000d to 40,000d.

Motorbike Taxi

Short hops are 30,000d.

Taxi

Metered taxis are very affordable; a 2km ride is about 25,000d. Mai Linh Taxi (icon-phonegif%08-3838 3838) and Vinasun Taxi (icon-phonegif%08-3827 2727) are reliable.

Around Ho Chi Minh City

GETTING TO CAMBODIA: HCMC TO PHNOM PENH

Getting to the border The busy Moc Bai/Bavet border crossing is the fastest land route between HCMC and Phnom Penh. Reliable bus companies to the Cambodian capital include Mekong Express (www.catmekongexpress.com) and Sapaco (www.sapacotourist.vn). Allow six hours for the trip.

At the border Cambodian visas (US$30) are issued at the border (you’ll need a passport-sized photo).

Moving on Most travellers have a through ticket. For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

Cu Chi

If the tenacious spirit of the Vietnamese could be symbolised by a single place, then Cu Chi might be it. Its fame is such that it’s become a place of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese, and a must-see for travellers.

1Sights

Cu Chi TunnelsHISTORIC SITE

(adult/child 110,000/30,000d)

Two sections of this remarkable tunnel network (which are enlarged and upgraded versions of the real thing) are open to the public. One is near the village of Ben Dinh and the other is 15km beyond at Ben Duoc. Most tourists visiting the tunnels end up at Ben Dinh, as it’s easier for tour buses to reach. Even if you stay above ground, it’s still an interesting experience learning about the region's ingenious and brave resistance activities.

Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue StationWILDLIFE

(www.wildlifeatrisk.org; adult/child US$5/free; icon-hoursgifh7.30-11.30am & 1-4.30pm)

Just a few kilometres from the Ben Dinh tunnels, this centre is dedicated to the protection of wildlife that has been confiscated from owners or illegal traders. Animals include bears, otters and gibbons. There is an informative display on the rather depressing state of wildlife in Vietnam, including the ‘room of death’ featuring traps and baits. It’s tough to navigate these back roads solo, so talk to a travel agent about incorporating it into a Cu Chi Tunnels trip.

Tay Ninh

icon-phonegif%066 / Pop 127,000

Tay Ninh town serves as the headquarters of Cao Dai, one of Vietnam’s most interesting indigenous religions. The Cao Dai Great Temple was built between 1933 and 1955. Victor Hugo is among the Westerners especially revered by the Cao Dai; look for his likeness at the Great Temple.

Tay Ninh is 96km northwest of HCMC. The Cao Dai Holy See complex is 4km east of Tay Ninh. One-day tours from Saigon, including Tay Ninh and the Cu Chi Tunnels, cost from US$7.

Mekong Delta

The ‘rice bowl’ of Vietnam, the Mekong Delta is a landscape carpeted in a dizzying variety of greens. It’s also a water world where boats, houses, restaurants and even markets float upon the innumerable rivers, canals and streams that flow through like arteries.

Visitors can experience southern charm in riverside homestays, while Phu Quoc is a tropical island lined with white-sand beaches.

Delta tours are very convenient (book through travel agencies in Ho Chi Minh City) but independent travel is perfectly feasible, if sometimes time-consuming.

23-mekong-delta-sea18jpg

Vinh Long

icon-phonegif%070 / Pop 151,000

Vinh Long is a noisy, chaotic transit hub, but the riverfront has plenty of cafes and restaurants. Close by are several worthwhile sites including the Cai Be floating market, beautiful islands, abundant orchards and atmospheric homestays.

Cuu Long Tourist ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%070-382 3616; www.cuulongtourist.com; 2 Ɖ Phan B Chau; icon-hoursgifh7am-5pm) offers boat tours ranging from three hours (from US$15 per person) to three days.

Bustling Cai Be Floating Market (icon-hoursgifh5am-noon) is worth including on a boat tour from Vinh Long. Arrive early in the morning to see huge boats packed with tropical fruit and vegetables.

We suggest you don’t stay in town; instead opt for a homestay.

Frequent buses go to HCMC (105,000d, three hours) and Can Tho (50,000d) from a bus station 2.5km south of town.

Can Tho

icon-phonegif%071 / Pop 1.25 million

Can Tho is the political, economic, cultural and transportation epicentre of the Mekong Delta. It’s a buzzing city with a waterfront lined with sculpted gardens and an appealing blend of narrow backstreets and wide boulevards.

English-speaking Hieu ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%093 966 6156; www.hieutour.com; 27A Ɖ Le Thanh Ton) offers excellent trips to floating markets (from US$23), cycling excursions and food tours.

Cai Rang is the biggest floating market in the Mekong Delta, 6km from Can Tho; it’s a morning affair. You can hire boats (about 120,000d per hour) on the river near the Can Tho market. Cai Rang is one hour away by boat, or you can drive to Cau Dau Sau boat landing, where you can get a rowing boat (per hour around 100,000d) to the market, 10 minutes away.

Less crowded and less motorised is the Phong Dien Market, 20km from Can Tho by road, which has more stand-up rowboats. It’s best between 6am and 8am. You can hire a boat on arrival.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoXoai HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0907 652 927; http://hotelxoai.com; 93 Ɖ Mau Than; s/d 235,000/293,000d; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Fantastic value at this friendly, efficient hotel with bright, mango-coloured (the hotel name means 'Mango Hotel'), airy rooms. Helpful staff speak excellent English and there's a roof terrace with hammocks.

Thanh HaGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0918 183 522; mshaguesthouse@gmail.com; 118/14 Ɖ Phan Dinh Phung; r US$12; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

You'll find this guesthouse with a clutch of large, sparkling white rooms down a narrow alleyway that bustles quietly with local life. Ms Ha – the proprietress – is a character, and she can help arrange tours and rent you a bicycle or motorbike.

icon-top-choiceoNem Nuong Thanh VanVIETNAMESE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Nam Ky Khoi Nghia & 30 Thang 4; meals 45,000d; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm)

The only dish this locally acclaimed little spot does is the best nem nuong in town. Roll your own rice rolls using the ingredients provided: pork sausage, rice paper, green banana, starfruit, cucumber and a riot of fresh herbs, then dip into the peanut-and-something-else sauce, its secret jealously guarded. Simple and fantastic!

8Getting There & Around

Air

Can Tho's airport, 10km northwest of the centre, is served by Vietnam Airlines, Vietjet Air and Vasco with daily flights to Phu Quoc, Danang, HCMC and Hanoi and also Dalat (two weekly) and Con Dao (four weekly).

Boat

Boat services include hydrofoils to Ca Mau (300,000d, three to four hours), passing through Phung Hiep.

Bus

All buses depart from a new bus station in the southwest of town. Destinations include HCMC Mien Tay terminal (110,000d, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes) and Chau Doc (from 105,000d, 3¼ hours, hourly).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

MORE OF THE MEKONG DELTA

Most tourists are on hit-and-run day trips from HCMC or passing through on their way to or from Cambodia, but it’s not hard to get off the beaten track in the Mekong Delta. Here are some lesser-known regional gems:

ACheck out some Khmer culture in Tra Vinh, home to a significant population of Cambodians and their beautiful temples.

AThe Khmer kingdom of Funan once held sway over much of the lower Mekong; its principal port was at Oc-Eo, located near Long Xuyen. Archaeologists have found ancient Persian and Roman artefacts here.

ABirdwatching enthusiasts will want to make a diversion to Tram Chin National Park (icon-hoursgifh7am-4pm) near Cao Lanh, a habitat for the rare eastern sarus crane. These huge birds are depicted on the bas-reliefs at Angkor and are only found here and in northwest Cambodia.

AThe small and secluded beach resort of Hon Chong has the most scenic stretch of coastline on the Mekong Delta mainland. The big attractions here are Chua Hang Grotto, Duong Beach and Nghe Island.

Chau Doc

icon-phonegif%076 / Pop 112,000

Perched on the banks of the Bassac River, Chau Doc is a charming town near the Cambodian border, with sizeable Chinese, Khmer and Cham communities. Its cultural diversity – apparent in the mosques, temples, churches and nearby pilgrimage sites – makes it a fascinating place to explore.

The popular nearby river crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia means many travellers pass through. Nearby Sam Mountain is a local beauty spot with terrific views over Cambodia.

War remnants near Chau Doc include Ba Chuc, the site of a Khmer Rouge massacre with a bone pagoda, and Tuc Dup Hill, where an expensive American bombing campaign in 1963 earned it the nickname Two Million Dollar Hill.

It’s also possible to visit fish farms set up underneath floating houses on the river.

Mekong Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%076-386 7817; www.mekongvietnam.com; 14 Ð Nguyen Huu Canh; icon-hoursgifh8am-8pm) is a reliable travel agent offering boat or bus transport to Phnom Penh, car rentals and boat trips on the Mekong.

Good budget places to stay include Trung Nguyen Hotel ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%076-356 1561; www.trungnguyenhotel.com.vn; 86 Ð Bach Dang; s/d US$15/17; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW) and Hai Chau ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%076-626 0066; www.haichauhotel.com; 63 Ð Suong Nguyet Anh; s/d US$15/18-28; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW), while Bay Bong ( GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Ð Thuong Dang Le; meals 50,000-100,000d; icon-hoursgifh9am-8pm) has excellent hotpots and soups.

There are very regular buses to both Can Tho (245,000d, 3½ hours) and HCMC (150,000d to 350,000d, 3½ hours) from the main bus station.

GETTING TO CAMBODIA: SOUTHERN BORDERS

CHAU DOC TO PHNOM PENH

Getting to the border The Vinh Xuong/Kaam Samnor border crossing is located northwest of Chau Doc along the Mekong River. Several companies in Chau Doc sell boat journeys to Phnom Penh via the Vinh Xuong border. Hang Chau ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%Chau Doc 076-356 2771, Phnom Penh 855-12-883 542; www.hangchautourist.com.vn; per person US$25) boats depart Chau Doc at 7.30am from a pier at 18 Ð Tran Hung Dao, arriving at 12.30pm. For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here.

At the border Cambodian visas are available, but minor overcharging is common.

HA TIEN TO KEP

Getting to the border The Xa Xia/Prek Chak border crossing connects Ha Tien with Kep and Kampot on Cambodia’s south coast. Several minibus companies leave Ha Tien for Cambodia at around 1pm, heading to Kep (US$9, one hour), Kampot (US$12, 1½ hours), Sihanoukville (US$15, four hours) and Phnom Penh (US$15, four hours). Book via Ha Tien Tourism.

At the border Cambodian visas are available at the border.

Moving on Most travellers opt for a through minibus ticket. For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here

CHAU DOC TO TAKEO

Getting to the border The Tinh Bien/Phnom Den border crossing is rarely used by travellers. A bus to Phnom Penh (US$25, five to six hours) passes through Chau Doc at around 7.30am; book through Mekong Tours in Chau Doc.

At the border Cambodian visas can be obtained here, although it’s not uncommon to be charged US$35, several dollars more than the official rate.

Moving on Most travellers opt for a through bus ticket from Chau Doc. For information on doing this crossing in the opposite direction, see here

Ha Tien

Ha Tien's location on the Gulf of Thailand makes it feels a world away from the rice fields and rivers that typify the region. Dramatic limestone formations define the area, pepper tree plantations dot the hillsides and the town itself has a sleepy tropical charm. It's a transport hub for road links to the Cambodia border at Xa Xia/Prek Chak and boats to Phu Quoc.

As for hotels, family-run Hai Yen ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-385 1580; www.kshaiyen.com; 15 Ð To Chau; d/tr/q 300,000/370,000/450,000d; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW) is a good value while for a real cheapie Hai Van ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-385 2872; www.khachsanhaivan.com; 55 Ɖ Lam Son; s/d from 200,000/250,000d; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW) fits the bill. For cheap grub the night market ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ɖ Lam Son; meals from 20,000d; icon-hoursgifh5-9pm) can't be beat, while Oasis ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-370 1553; www.oasisbarhatien.com; Ɖ Tran Hau; meals 60,000-150,000; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm; icon-wifigifW) is a popular expat-run bar-restaurant; the owner provides good travel advice.

8Getting There & Away

Buses connect HCMC (200,000d, 10 hours) and Ha Tien; they also run to destinations including Chau Doc (130,000d to 200,000d), Rach Gia (60,000d) and Can Tho (from 180,000d). At the time of writing, the bus station was due to relocate to a large, purpose-built facility 1.5km south of the bridge by early 2016.

Phu Quoc Island

icon-phonegif%077 / Pop 108,000

Fringed with idyllic beaches and with large tracts still covered in dense, tropical jungle, Phu Quoc has morphed from a sleepy backwater into a favoured escape. Beyond the resorts lining Long Beach there’s still ample room for exploration and escaping. Dive the reefs, kayak the bays, eat up back-road miles on a motorbike, dine on fresh seafood or just lounge on the beach.

Despite increasing development (including a new international airport), close to 70% of the island is protected as Phu Quoc National Park.

Phu Quoc’s rainy season is from late May to October; the peak season for tourism is between December and March.

1Sights

Deserted white-sand beaches ring Phu Quoc.

Duong DongTOWN

The island’s main town and chief fishing port on the central west coast is a tangle of budget hotels catering to domestic tourists, streetside stalls, bars and shops. The old bridge in town is a great vantage point to photograph the island’s scruffy fishing fleet crammed into the narrow channel, and the filthy, bustling produce market makes for an interesting stroll.

Long BeachBEACH

(Bai Truong; GOOGLE MAP )

Long Beach is draped invitingly along the west coast from Duong Dong almost to An Thoi port. Development concentrates in the north near Duong Dong, where the recliners and rattan umbrellas of the various resorts rule; these are the only stretches that are kept garbage-free. With its west-facing aspect, sunsets can be stupendous.

A motorbike or bicycle is necessary to reach some of the remote stretches flung out towards the southern end of the island.

An Thoi IslandsISLAND

(Quan Dao An Thoi)

Just off the southern tip of Phu Quoc, these 15 islands and islets can be visited by chartered boat. It’s a fine area for sightseeing, fishing, swimming and snorkelling. Hon Thom (Pineapple Island) is about 3km in length and is the largest island in the group.

Most boats depart from An Thoi on Phu Quoc, but you can make arrangements through hotels on Long Beach, as well as dive operators. Boat trips generally do not run during the rainy season.

Sao BeachBEACH

(Bai Sao; GOOGLE MAP )

With picture-perfect white sand, the delightful curve of beautiful Sao Beach bends out alongside a sea of mineral-water clarity just a few kilometres from An Thoi, the main shipping port at the southern tip of the island. There are a couple of beachfront restaurants, where you can settle into a deckchair or partake in watersports. If heading down to Sao Beach by motorbike, fill up with petrol before the trip.

Phu Quoc National ParkNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 90% of Phu Quoc is forested and the trees and adjoining marine environment enjoy official protection. This is the last large stand of forest in the south, and in 2010 the park was declared a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. The forest is densest in northern Phu Quoc, in the Khu Rung Nguyen Sinh forest reserve; you’ll need a motorbike or mountain bike to tackle the bumpy dirt roads that cut through it. There are no real hiking trails.

A NIGHT ON THE MEKONG

For many travellers, the chance to experience river life and to share a home-cooked meal with a local family is a highlight of a Mekong visit. Vinh Long offers many homestay options.

Ngoc SangHOMESTAY$

(icon-phonegif%070-385 8694; 95/8 Binh Luong, An Binh; per person 250,000d; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Most travellers love this friendly, canal-facing rustic homestay. The grandmother cooks up some wonderful local dishes, free bikes are available, the owner runs decent early-morning boat tours and there's a languid atmosphere about the place. The family seems shy when it comes to hanging out with the guests, though.

Phuong Thao HomestayHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%070-3836 854; en.phuongthaohomestay.com; An Binh; dm/d US$10/32; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Tucked away by the river, around 1.5km from the An Binh boat landing, this rustic guesthouse is run by the friendly Mr Phu, who speaks very good English and who can lend you bicycles and motorbikes to explore the island. Stay in the large, thatch-walled dorms with mozzie nets or the two concrete doubles; good ratio of guests per bathroom.

Ba Linh HomestayHOMESTAY$$

(icon-phonegif%070-385 8683, 0939 138 142; balinhhomestay@gmail.com; 95 An Thanh, An Binh; r 500,000d)

Run by friendly Mr Truong, this traditional-looking and popular place has six simple, high-roofed, partitioned rooms in a line, all with fan. Breakfast and dinner is included in the price and you may get to try such local specialities as rice-field rat.

2Activities

Jerry’s Jungle Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0938 226 021; www.jerrystours.wix.com; 112 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; day trips from US$30) and John's Tours ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0918 939 111; www.johnsislandtours.com; 4 Ð Tran Hung Dao; tours per person US$15-35) offer boat trips, snorkelling, fishing, motorbike tours, bouldering, birdwatching, hiking and cultural tours around Phu Quoc.

There’s good scuba diving around Phu Quoc, but only during the dry months (from November to May). Two fun dives cost from US$70 to US$80; four-day PADI Open Water certification starts at US$340 and snorkelling trips cost around US$30. Flipper Diving Club ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-3994 924; www.flipperdiving.com; 60 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm) and Rainbow Divers ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0913 400 964; www.divevietnam.com; 11 Ð Tran Hung Dao; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm) are two good dive schools in the Duong Dong area.

There are several places to rent kayaks (around 80,000d per hour) on Sao Beach.

4Sleeping

Most beachside accommodation options are at Long Beach. Expect to pay more here than elsewhere in Vietnam; accommodation prices also yo-yo depending on the season.

Long Beach

icon-top-choiceoLangchia HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0939 132 613; www.langchia-village.com; 84 Đ Tran Hung Dao; dm/d US$6/15; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

A favourite with solo travellers, this hostel gets plenty of praise for the friendliness and helpfulness of its staff, the lively bar with pool table and the swimming pool to cool down in. Dorm beds come with mozzie nets and individual fans and it's worth paying extra for the decent breakfast.

Mush'rooms Backpacker HostelHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%0937 942 017; www.mushroomsphuquoc.com; 170 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; dm US$7, d US$12-15; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Pros? This colourful hostel is a great place to meet fellow backpackers. Cons? The grungy charm wears off when staff forget to clean the rooms and bathrooms and veer between being uncooperative and surly, the plug-in fans struggle to cool the rooms and there's not mush'room to move in the dorms.

Beach ClubRESORT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-398 0998; Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To; r US$25-45; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifW)

Run by an English-Vietnamese couple, this is a great escape from the main-drag bustle, with tightly grouped and well-kept rooms and bungalows on a small plot, plus a breezy beachside restaurant.

Lan Anh Garden ResortRESORT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-398 5985; www.lananhphuquoc.com.vn; KP7 Tran Hung Dao; d US$58-75, f US$115; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Enticing little resort hotel with friendly, professional staff, a clutch of rooms arranged around a small pool and motorbikes for rent. Nab an upstairs room if you can for the breezy verandahs.

Around the Island

Mango GardenB&B$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-629 1339; mangogarden.inn@gmail.com; r US$38-55; icon-hoursgifhOct-Mar; icon-acongifaicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

Best suited to those with their own (two) wheels, this isolated B&B is reached by a bumpy dirt road (turn left just before Sao Beach and look for the signs) away from the beach. Run by a Vietnamese-Canadian couple, the Western-style, generator-powered B&B is surrounded by gorgeous flower and mango gardens, with solar showers and fishing and snorkelling trips. Book ahead.

FreedomlandHOMESTAY$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%077-399 4891; www.freedomlandphuquoc.com; 2 Ap Ong Lang, Xa Cua Duong; bungalow US$30-60; icon-hoursgifhOct-Jun; icon-wifigifW)

With an emphasis on switching off (no TV) and socialising – fun, communal dinners are a mainstay – Freedomland has 11 basic bungalows (mosquito nets, fans, solar-heated showers) scattered around a shady plot. The beach is a five-minute walk away, or you can slump in the hammocks strung between the trees. Popular with solo budget travellers; call ahead. Shut in the rainy season.

5Eating & Drinking

Most hotels have on-site cafes or restaurants.

The seafood restaurants in the fishing village of Ham Ninh also offer an authentic local experience.

Duong Dong

Dinh Cau Night Market ( GOOGLE MAP ; Ð Vo Thi Sau; meals from 70,000d; icon-hoursgifh5pm-midnight) is one of the most atmospheric (and affordable) places to dine with a delicious range of Vietnamese seafood, grills and vegetarian options.

Buddy Ice CreamINTERNATIONAL$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.visitphuquoc.info; 6 Ð Bach Dang; meals 80,000-180,000d; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm; icon-wifigifW)

With the coolest music in town, this cafe is excellent for sides of tourist info with its New Zealand ice-cream combos, toasted sandwiches, fish 'n' chips, thirst-busting fruit juices, shakes, smoothies, all-day breakfasts, comfy sofas and book exchange.

Long Beach

Rory's Beach Bar ( GOOGLE MAP ; 118/10 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; icon-hoursgifh9am-late) is the liveliest bar on the island, with bonfires on the beach and great happy hour specials.

Winston's Burgers & BeerBURGERS$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 121 Ɖ Tran Hung Dao; burgers from 70,000d; icon-hoursgifh1-9pm)

The name says it all: this bar is all about (really good) burgers, beer and a large selection of cocktails, mixed by the eponymous Winston. Linger for a chat or challenge your drinking companions to a game of Connect 4.

Alanis DeliCAFE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; 98 Ð Tran Hung Dao; pancakes from 80,000d; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm; icon-wifigifW)

Fab caramel pancakes, American breakfast combos, plus good (if pricey) coffees and wonderfully friendly service.

icon-top-choiceoSpice House at Cassia CottageVIETNAMESE$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cassiacottage.com; 100C Ð Tran Hung Dao; meals 180,000-300,000d; icon-hoursgifh7-10am & 11am-10pm)

Nab a beachside high-table, order a papaya salad, grilled garlic prawns, a cinnamon-infused okra, a delectable fish curry, or grilled beef skewers wrapped in betel leaves and time dinner to catch the sunset at this excellent restaurant.

8Information

There are ATMs in Duong Dong and in many resorts on Long Beach. Buddy Ice Cream offers free internet and wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

Air

There are international flights to Singapore and Siem Reap. Vietnam Airlines, VietJet Air and Jetstar between them offer daily flights to Can Tho, Hanoi, HCMC and Rach Gia.

Demand can be high in peak season, so book ahead

Boat

Fast boats connect Phu Quoc to both Ha Tien (1½ hours) and Rach Gia (2½ hours). Five virtually identical operators, including Duong Dong Express (icon-phonegif%Phu Quoc 077-399 0747, Rach Gia 077-387 9765) and Superdong (icon-phonegif%077-387 7742; per passenger 250,000d), run several daily fast boats from Rach Gia to Bai Vong (250,000d).

Three daily fast ferries (230,000d) from Ha Tien arrive at the Ham Ninh port, just north of Bai Vong. There are also car ferries to/from Ha Tien and Phu Quoc’s Da Chong port.

8Getting Around

The island’s airport is 10km from Duong Dong; a taxi costs around 100,000d to Long Beach.

Bicycles/motorbikes are available through most hotels from 70,000/120,000d per day.

There is a skeletal bus service (every hour or two) between An Thoi and Duong Dong. A bus (20,000d) waits for the ferry at Bai Vong to take passengers to Duong Dong.

Motorbike taxis are everywhere. Short hops cost 20,000d; figure on around 50,000d for about 5km.

Call Mai Linh (icon-phonegif%077-397 9797) for a reliable taxi.

Understand Vietnam

Vietnam Today

Two decades of rising, sustained growth has transformed Vietnam. Change is most apparent in the big cities, where steel-and-glass highrises define skylines and a burgeoning middle class now has the spending power to enjoy air-conditioned living and overseas travel. Yet in rural areas the nation’s new-found prosperity is less evident, and up in the highlands, life remains a day-to-day struggle for millions of minority people.

The Big Picture

In the 40 years since the end of the American War, Vietnam has made giant strides. A victorious, though bankrupt, nation has worked around the clock, grafting its way forward, overcoming a series of formidable hurdles (including a 19-year US trade embargo). Per capita income has grown from US$98 in 1993 to over US$2000 by 2015, and today Vietnam is one of the 10 fastest-growing economies in the world, boosted by strong manufacturing. Startup business numbers are booming. And yet this rapid development is disjointed. The state sector remains huge, controlling around two-fifths of the economy – 100 of the 200 biggest Vietnamese companies are state-owned (including oil production, shipbuilding, cement and coal). Many of these operations haemorrhage money.

The spectre of corruption casts a shadow over development every step of the way. Transparency International ranked Vietnam the lowest of all the Asia-Pacific countries it measured in 2014. Corruption scandals emerge on a daily basis, such as the nine Vinashin shipbuilding execs jailed following the company’s near-collapse under US$4.5 billion of debt. For most Vietnamese people corruption is simply a part of day-to-day life, as they have to pay backhanders for everything from securing a civil service job to an internet connection.

THE WAY IT IS

Vietnam’s political system could not be simpler: the Communist Party is the sole source of power. Officially, according to the Vietnamese constitution, the National Assembly (or parliament) is the country’s supreme authority, but in practice it’s a tool of the party and carefully controlled elections ensure 90% of delegates are Communist Party members.

North & South

The Vietnamese economy has been buoyant for 20 years, but some areas are more buoyant than others. In 2015 Ho Chi Minh City's economy was growing at 8.6%, well above that in the North. It’s the South that’s benefited most from inward investment as Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnamese, the vast majority of whom are southerners) have returned and invested in the region.

The government is aware of these divisions and tries to balance the offices of state, so if the prime minister is from the South, the head of the Communist Party is from the North.

When it comes to the older generation, the South has never forgiven the North for bulldozing their war cemeteries, imposing communism and blackballing whole families. The North has never forgiven the South for siding with the Americans against their own people. Luckily for Vietnam, the new generation seems to have less interest in the country’s harrowing history.

Uneasy Neighbours

On the surface Vietnam and its northern neighbour China have much in common, with a shared heritage, common frontier and all-powerful ruling Communist parties. But for the Vietnamese, China represents something of an overbearing big brother (and 1000 years of subordination). The nations fought a recent on-off border war which rumbled on for years, only ending in 1990. In a 2014 survey over 80% of Vietnamese were concerned that another conflict could erupt over offshore islands in the South China Sea (always the 'East Sea' in Vietnam). China claims virtually the whole area, and is busy constructing port facilities and airstrips. In May 2014 anti-Chinese riots erupted in several provinces, resulting in at least 21 deaths, in response to China deploying an oil rig in the Paracel Islands. Thousands of Chinese nationals fled the country. By November 2015 tensions remained but the situation had calmed enough for President Xi Jinping to visit Hanoi as the countries sought to repair ties.

The two nations have plenty of common ground. Trade has continued to boom (though it is more one way than the Vietnamese would like), reaching US$58 billion in 2014, and Chinese is the second most popular foreign language studied in Vietnam. Ultimately, Presidents Trong and Xi signed various cooperation agreements concerning investment and infrastructure but little progress was evident over territorial disputes.

History

Early Vietnam

The Vietnamese trace their roots back to the Red River Delta where farmers first cultivated rice. Millennia of struggle against the Chinese then followed. Vietnam only became a united state in the 19th century, but quickly faced the ignominy of French colonialism and then the devastation of the American intervention. The Vietnamese nation has survived tempestuous, troubled times, but its strength of character has served it well. Today, the signs are it’s continuing to grow with some promise.

The sophisticated Indianised kingdom of Funan flourished from the 1st to 6th centuries AD in the Mekong Delta area. Archaeological evidence reveals that Funan’s busy trading port of Oc-Eo had contact with China, India, Persia and even the Mediterranean. Between the mid-6th century and the 9th century, the Funan empire was absorbed by the pre-Angkorian kingdom of Chenla.

Meanwhile, around present-day Danang, the Hindu kingdom of Champa emerged in the late 2nd century AD. Like Funan, it adopted Sanskrit as a sacred language and borrowed heavily from Indian art and culture. By the 8th century Champa had expanded to include what is now Nha Trang and Phan Rang. The Cham warred constantly with the Vietnamese to the north and the Khmers to the south and ultimately found themselves squeezed between these two great powers.

Chinese Occupation

The Chinese conquered the Red River Delta in the 2nd century BC and over the following centuries attempted to impress a centralised state system on the Vietnamese. There were numerous small-scale rebellions against Chinese rule – which was characterised by tyranny, forced labour and insatiable demands for tribute – between the 3rd and 6th centuries, but all were defeated.

However, the early Viets learned much from the Chinese, including advanced irrigation for rice cultivation and medical knowledge as well as Confucianism, Taoism and Mahayana Buddhism. Much of the 1000-year period of Chinese occupation was typified by both Vietnamese resistance and the adoption of many Chinese cultural traits.

In AD 938 Ngo Quyen destroyed Chinese forces on the Bach Dang River, winning independence and signalling the start of a dynastic tradition. During subsequent centuries the Vietnamese successfully repulsed foreign invaders, including the Mongols, and absorbed the kingdom of Champa in 1471 as they expanded south.

Contact with the West

In 1858 a joint military force from France and the Spanish colony of the Philippines stormed Danang after several missionaries were killed. Early the next year, Saigon was seized. By 1883 the French had imposed a Treaty of Protectorate on Vietnam. French rule often proved cruel and arbitrary. Ultimately, the most successful resistance came from the communists, first organised by Ho Chi Minh in 1925.

During WWII the only group that significantly resisted the Japanese occupation was the communist-dominated Viet Minh. When WWII ended, Ho Chi Minh – whose Viet Minh forces already controlled large parts of the country – declared Vietnam independent. French efforts to reassert control soon led to violent confrontations and full-scale war. In May 1954 Viet Minh forces overran the French garrison at Dien Bien Phu.

The Geneva Accords of mid-1954 provided for a temporary division of Vietnam at the Ben Hai River. When Ngo Dinh Diem, the anti-communist, Catholic leader of the southern zone, refused to hold the 1956 elections, the Ben Hai line became the border between North and South Vietnam.

The War in Vietnam

Around 1960 the Hanoi government changed its policy of opposition to the Diem regime from one of ‘political struggle’ to one of ‘armed struggle’. The National Liberation Front (NLF), a communist guerrilla group better known as the Viet Cong (VC), was founded to fight against Diem.

An unpopular ruler, Diem was assassinated in 1963 by his own troops. When the Hanoi government ordered North Vietnamese Army (NVA) units to infiltrate the South in 1964, the situation for the Saigon regime became desperate. In 1965 the USA committed its first combat troops, soon joined by soldiers from South Korea, Australia, Thailand and New Zealand in an effort to bring global legitimacy to the conflict.

As Vietnam celebrated the Lunar New Year in 1968, the VC launched a surprise attack, known as the Tet Offensive, marking a crucial turning point in the war. Many Americans, who had for years believed their government’s insistence that the USA was winning, started demanding a negotiated end to the war. The Paris Agreements, signed in 1973, provided for a ceasefire, the total withdrawal of US combat forces and the release of American prisoners of war.

UNCLE OF THE PEOPLE

Father of the nation, Ho Chi Minh (Bringer of Light) was the son of a fiercely nationalistic scholar-official. Born Nguyen Tat Thanh near Vinh in 1890, he was educated in Hue and adopted many pseudonyms during his momentous life. Many Vietnamese affectionately refer to him as Bac Ho (Uncle Ho) today.

In 1911 he signed up as a cook’s apprentice on a French ship, sailing the seas to North America, Africa and Europe. While odd-jobbing in England and France as a gardener, snow sweeper, waiter, photo-retoucher and stoker, his political consciousness developed.

Ho Chi Minh moved to Paris, where he mastered languages including English, French, German and Mandarin and began to promote the issue of Indochinese independence. He was a founding member of the French Communist Party in 1920.

In 1941 Ho Chi Minh returned to Vietnam for the first time in 30 years, and established the Viet Minh (whose goal was independence from France). As Japan prepared to surrender in August 1945, Ho Chi Minh led the August Revolution, and his forces then established control throughout much of Vietnam.

The return of the French compelled the Viet Minh to conduct a guerrilla war, which ultimately led to victory against the colonists at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. Ho then led North Vietnam until his death in September 1969 – he never lived to see the North’s victory over the South.

Since then the party has worked hard to preserve the image and reputation of Bac Ho. His image dominates contemporary Vietnam. This cult of personality is in stark contrast to the simplicity with which Ho lived his life. For more Ho, check out Ho Chi Minh, the excellent biography by William J Duiker.

Reunification

Saigon surrendered to the NVA on 30 April 1975. Vietnam’s reunification by the communists meant liberation from more than a century of colonial oppression, but was soon followed by large-scale internal repression. Hundreds of thousands of southerners fled Vietnam, creating a flood of refugees for the next 15 years.

Vietnam’s campaign of repression against the ethnic Chinese, plus its invasion of Cambodia at the end of 1978, prompted China to attack Vietnam in 1979. The war lasted only 17 days, but Chinese-Vietnamese mistrust lasted for well over a decade.

Post-Cold War

After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, Vietnam and Western nations sought rapprochement. The 1990s brought foreign investment and Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) membership. The US established diplomatic relations with Vietnam in 1995, and Bill Clinton and George W Bush visited Hanoi. Vietnam was welcomed into the World Trade Organization (WTO) in 2007.

In recent years friction has grown between Vietnam and China over territorial claims in the South China Sea, and there were anti-Chinese riots in 2014. Conversely, relations between the USA and Vietnam have become much warmer, with booming bilateral trade.

People & Culture

The Vietnamese are battle-hardened, proud and nationalist, as they have earned their stripes in successive skirmishes with the world’s mightiest powers. But that’s the older generation, who remember every inch of the territory for which they fought. For the new generation, Vietnam is a place to succeed, a place to ignore the staid structures set in stone by the communists, and a place to go out and have some fun.

As in other parts of Asia, life revolves around the family; there are often several generations living under one roof. Poverty, and the transition from a largely agricultural society to that of a more industrialised nation, sends many people seeking their fortune to the bigger cities, and is changing the structure of the modern family unit. Women make up 52% of the nation’s workforce but are not well represented in positions of power.

Vietnam’s population is 84% ethnic Vietnamese (Kinh) and 2% ethnic Chinese; the rest is made up of Khmers, Chams and members of more than 50 minority peoples, who mainly live in highland areas.

Religion

Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have fused with popular Chinese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism to form what’s collectively known as the Triple Religion (Tam Giao). Most Vietnamese people identify with this belief system, but if asked, they’ll usually say they’re Buddhist. Vietnam also has a significant percentage of Catholics (8% to 10% of the total population).

Cao Daism is a unique and colourful Vietnamese sect that was founded in the 1920s. It combines secular and religious philosophies of the East and West, and is based on seance messages revealed to the group’s founder, Ngo Minh Chieu.

There are also small numbers of Muslims (around 65,000) and Hindus (50,000).

Arts

Contemporary Art & Music

It is possible to catch modern dance, classical ballet and stage plays in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

The work of contemporary painters and photographers covers a wide swathe of styles and gives a glimpse into the modern Vietnamese psyche; there are good galleries in Hanoi, HCMC and Hoi An.

Youth culture is most vibrant in HCMC and Hanoi, where there’s more freedom for musicians and artists. There's a small but growing hip-hop scene, with HCMC-born Suboi acknowledged as Vietnam's leading female artist; she raps to eclectic beats including dubstep rhythms. Hot bands include rock band Microwave, metal merchants Black Infinity, punk band Giao Chi and alt-roots band 6789.

BEST BOOKS

The Quiet American (Graham Greene) Classic novel set in the 1950s as the French empire is collapsing.

The Sorrow of War (Bao Ninh) The North Vietnamese perspective, retold in novel form via flashbacks.

Vietnam: Rising Dragon (Bill Hayton) A candid assessment of the nation that's one of the most up-to-date sources available.

Catfish & Mandala (Andrew X Pham) Beautifully written and thought-provoking biographical tale of a Vietnamese-American.

Architecture

The Vietnamese were not great builders like their neighbours the Khmer. Early Vietnamese structures were made of wood and other materials that proved highly vulnerable in the tropical climate. The grand exceptions are the stunning towers built by Vietnam’s ancient Cham culture. These are most numerous in central Vietnam. The Cham ruins at My Son are a major draw.

Sculpture

Vietnamese sculpture has traditionally centred on religious themes and has functioned as an adjunct to architecture, especially that of pagodas, temples and tombs.

The Cham civilisation produced exquisite carved sandstone figures for its Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries. The largest single collection of Cham sculpture is at the Museum of Cham Sculpture in Danang.

Water Puppetry

Vietnam’s ancient art of roi nuoc (water puppetry) originated in northern Vietnam at least 1000 years ago. Developed by rice farmers, the wooden puppets were manipulated by puppeteers using water-flooded rice paddies as their stage. Hanoi is the best place to see water-puppetry performances, which are accompanied by music played on traditional instruments.

BEST FILMS

Apocalypse Now (1979) The American War depicted as an epic 'heart of darkness' adventure.

The Deer Hunter (1978) Examines the psychological breakdown suffered by small-town servicemen.

Platoon (1986) Based on the first-hand experiences of the director, it follows idealistic volunteer Charlie Sheen to 'Nam.

Cyclo (1995) Visually stunning masterpiece that cuts to the core of HCMC's underworld.

The Quiet American (2002) Atmospherically set in Saigon during the French colonial period, with rebellion in the air.

Food & Drink

Food

Vietnamese food is one of the world’s greatest cuisines; there are said to be nearly 500 traditional dishes. It varies a lot between North, centre and South. Soy sauce, Chinese influence and hearty soups like pho typify northern cuisine. Central Vietnamese food is known for its prodigious use of fresh herbs and intricate flavours; Hue imperial cuisine and Hoi An specialities are key to this area. Southern food is sweet, spicy and tropical – its curries will be familiar to lovers of Thai and Cambodian food. Everywhere you’ll find that Vietnamese meals are superbly prepared and excellent value.

Most restaurants trade seven days a week, opening around 7am or 8am and closing around 9pm, often later in the big cities.

Fruit

Aside from the usual delightful Southeast Asian fruits, Vietnam has its own unique trai thanh long (green dragon fruit), a bright fuchsia-coloured fruit with green scales. Grown mainly in the coastal region near Nha Trang, it has white flesh flecked with edible black seeds, and tastes something like a mild kiwifruit.

Meals

Pho is the noodle soup that built a nation and is eaten at all hours of the day, but especially for breakfast. Com are rice dishes. You’ll see signs saying pho and com everywhere. Other noodle soups to try are bun bo Hue and hu tieu.

Spring rolls (nem in the North, cha gio in the South) are a speciality. These are normally dipped in nuoc mam (fish sauce), though many foreigners prefer soy sauce (xi dau in the North, nuoc tuong in the South).

Because Buddhist monks of the Mahayana tradition are strict vegetarians, an chay (vegetarian cooking) is an integral part of Vietnamese cuisine.

THERE’S SOMETHING FISHY AROUND HERE…

Nuoc mam (fish sauce) is the one ingredient that is quintessentially Vietnamese, and it lends a distinctive character to Vietnamese cooking. The sauce is made by fermenting highly salted fish in large ceramic vats for four to 12 months. Connoisseurs insist high-grade sauce has a much milder aroma than the cheaper variety. Dissenters insist it is a chemical weapon. It’s very often used as a dipping sauce, and takes the place occupied by salt on a Western table.

Snacks

Street stalls or roaming vendors are everywhere, selling steamed sweet potatoes, rice porridge and ice-cream bars even in the wee hours.

There are also many other Vietnamese nibbles to try, including the following:

Bap xao Made from stir-fried fresh corn, chillies and tiny shrimp.

Bo bia Nearly microscopic shrimp, fresh lettuce and thin slices of Vietnamese sausage rolled up in rice paper and dipped in a spicy-sweet peanut sauce.

Sinh to Shakes made with milk and sugar or yoghurt, and fresh tropical fruit.

Sweets

Many sticky confections are made from sticky rice, like banh it nhan dau, which also contains sugar and bean paste and is sold wrapped in banana leaf.

Most foreigners prefer kem (ice cream) or yaourt (yoghurt), which is generally of good quality.

Try che, a cold, refreshing sweet soup made with sweetened black bean, green bean or corn. It’s served in a glass with ice and sweet coconut cream on top.

Drink

Alcoholic Drinks

Memorise the words bia hoi, which mean ‘draught beer’. Probably the cheapest beer in the world, bia hoi starts at around 5000d a glass, so anyone can afford a round. Places that serve bia hoi usually also serve cheap food.

Several foreign labels brewed in Vietnam under licence include Tiger, Carlsberg and Heineken.

National and regional brands include Halida and Hanoi in the North, Huda and Larue in the centre, and BGI and 333 (ba ba ba) in the South.

Wine and spirits are available but at higher prices. Local brews are cheaper but not always drinkable.

Nonalcoholic Drinks

Whatever you drink, make sure that it’s been boiled or bottled. Ice is generally safe on the tourist trail, but may not be elsewhere.

Vietnamese cà phê (coffee) is fine stuff and there is no shortage of cafes in which to sample it.

Foreign soft drinks are widely available in Vietnam. An excellent local treat is soda chanh (carbonated mineral water with lemon and sugar) or nuoc chanh nong (hot, sweetened lemon juice).