Around Battambang

The countryside around Battambang is littered with old temples, bamboo trains and other worthwhile sights. Admission to Phnom Sampeau, Phnom Banan and Wat Ek Phnom costs US$3. If you purchase a ticket at one site, it’s valid all day long at the other two.

Phnom Sampeau

At the summit of this fabled limestone outcrop, 12km southwest of Battambang (towards Pailin), a complex of temples affords gorgeous views. Some of the macaques that live here, dining on bananas left as offerings, are pretty cantankerous.

Between the summit and the mobile-phone antenna, a deep canyon descends steeply through a natural arch to a ‘lost world’ of stalactites, creeping vines and bats.

About halfway up the hill, a turn-off leads 250m up to the Killing Caves of Phnom Sampeau. An enchanted staircase, flanked by greenery, leads into a cavern where a golden reclining Buddha lies peacefully next to a glass-walled memorial filled with the bones and skulls of some of the people bludgeoned to death by Khmer Rouge cadres, before being thrown through the overhead skylight.

Phnom Banan

Exactly 358 stone steps lead up a shaded slope to 11th-century Wat Banan, 28km south of Battambang, whose five towers are reminiscent of the layout of Angkor Wat. The views are well worth the climb. From the temple, a narrow stone staircase leads south down the hill to three caves, which can be visited with a local guide.

Wat Ek Phnom

This atmospheric, partly collapsed, 11th-century temple is 11km north of Battambang. A lintel showing the Churning of the Ocean of Milk can be seen above the east entrance to the central temple, whose upper flanks hold some fine bas-reliefs. This is a great place for a shady picnic.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

PRASAT PREAH VIHEAR

This 800m-long temple (ប្រាសាទ​ព្រះវិហារ admission US$10; h7.30am-4.30pm) is the most dramatically situated of all the Angkorian monuments. It sits high atop the Dangkrek escarpment on the Thai border, with stupendous views of Cambodia’s northern plains.

Prasat Preah Vihear consists of a series of four cruciform gopura (sanctuaries) decorated with exquisite carvings, including some striking lintels. Starting at the Monumental Stairway, a walk south takes you to the Gopura of the Third Level, with its early rendition of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, and finally, perched at the edge of the cliff, the Central Sanctuary. Stick to well-marked paths, as the Khmer Rouge laid huge numbers of landmines around Prasat Preah Vihear as late as 1998.

Prasat Preah Vihear and the lands surrounding it were ruled by Thailand in the 19th century, but were returned to Cambodia during the French protectorate. In 1959 the Thai military seized the temple from Cambodia, but the International Court of Justice (ICJ) in the Hague recognised Cambodian sovereignty in a 1962 ruling.

In July 2008 Prasat Preah Vihear was declared Cambodia’s second Unesco World Heritage site. Thai troops soon crossed into Cambodian territory, sparking an armed confrontation. In July 2011 the ICJ ruled that both sides should establish a demilitarised zone. Then in November 2013 the ICJ confirmed its 1962 ruling that the temple belongs to Cambodia. The border area remains tense, but is considered safe.

Driving in from Sra Em, stop at the information centre (Kor Muy; h7am-4.30pm) in the village of Kor Muy. This is where you pay your donation, secure an English-speaking guide (US$15), and arrange transport via moto (US$5 return) or 4WD (US$25 return, maximum six passengers) up the 6.5km temple access road, the final 1.5km of which is extremely steep.

Budget lodging is plentiful in the burgeoning town of Sra Em, 23km south of the information centre. Try Sok San Guesthouse (%097 715 3839; s/d with fan US$8/10, with air-con from US$13/15; aW), 1km west of Sra Em's central roundabout.

With a private car you can get to Prasat Preah Vihear (not to be confused with Preah Vihear City, 110km south) in about three hours from Siem Reap (about US$140 round-trip). It makes more sense to break up the long trip with a night in Sra Em, which is just 30km from the temple. Share taxis (US$10 per person, three hours) link Sra Em with Siem Reap. From Sra Em’s central roundabout, you can find a moto to the information centre in Kor Muy (US$10 return).

Kompong Thom

%062 / Pop 68,000

A bustling commercial centre, Kompong Thom is mainly a base from which to explore dazzling Sambor Prei Kuk.

4Sleeping & Eating

Arunras HotelHOTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %062-961294; NH6; s/d with fan US$5/8, d with air-con US$15; aW)

Dominating Kompong Thom's accommodation scene, this corner establishment has 58 good-value rooms with Chinese-style decoration and on-the-ball staff. The popular restaurant downstairs dishes up tasty Khmer fare. Operates the slightly cheaper, 53-room Arunras Guesthouse ( GOOGLE MAP ; %012 865935; NH6; s/d with fan US$6/8, with air-con US$10/13; aW) next door. Extra bonus for the lazy traveller: buses through town stop literally right outside the door.

Prum Bayon RestaurantCAMBODIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Prachea Thepatay St; mains incl rice 6000-10,000r; h5am-9pm)

Lacking English signs but with an English menu, this immensely popular feeding station is where locals come for flavourful Khmer cooking.

oKompong Thom RestaurantCAMBODIAN$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; NH6; mains US$3-8; h6.30am-9pm; Wv)

With delightful bow-tied waiters and a pocket-sized terrace overlooking the river, this restaurant is easily Kompong Thom's best. Unique concoctions featuring water buffalo and stir-fried eel feature on the menu of Khmer classics, which come in generous portions.

8Information

Canadia BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; NH6; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)

8Getting There & Around

Dozens of buses travelling between Phnom Penh (US$5, four hours) and Siem Reap (US$5, two hours) pass through Kompong Thom and can easily be flagged down outside the Arunras Hotel.

Heading north to Preah Vihear City, share taxis (US$5, two hours) depart in the morning only.

Im Sokhom Travel Agency ( GOOGLE MAP ; %012 691527; St 3) rents bicycles (US$1 a day) and motorbikes (US$5 a day).

Around Kompong Thom

Sambor Prei Kuk

Cambodia’s most impressive group of pre-Angkorian monuments, Sambor Prei Kuk (សំបូរ​ព្រៃ​គុក www.samborpreikuk.com; admission US$3) encompasses more than 100 brick temples scattered throughout the forest. Originally called Isanapura, it served as the capital of Chenla during the reign of the early-7th-century King Isanavarman.

Forested and shady, Sambor Prei Kuk has a serene atmosphere. The main temple area consists of three complexes: Prasat Sambor, dedicated to Gambhireshvara, one of Shiva’s many incarnations; Prasat Yeay Peau, which feels lost in the forest, its eastern gateway smothered by an ancient tree; and Prasat Tao (Lion Temple), the largest of the Sambor Prei Kuk complexes, boasting two large and elaborately coiffed stone lions.

Isanborei (%017 936112; www.samborpreikuk.com; dm/d US$4/6) runs a community-based homestay program, offers cooking courses, rents bicycles (US$2 per day) and organises ox-cart rides. It also operates a stable of remorks to whisk you safely to/from Kompong Thom (US$15 one way).

You'll find plenty of restaurants (mains US$2 to US$4) serving local fare around the large open-air handicrafts market near the temple entrance.

Sambor Prei Kuk is 30km northeast of Kompong Thom via smooth roads. A round-trip moto ride out here should cost US$10, a remork about US$20.

South Coast

Cambodia’s south coast is an alluring mix of clear blue water, castaway islands, pristine mangrove forests, time-worn colonial towns and jungle-clad mountains, where bears and elephants lurk. Adventurers will find this region of Cambodia just as rewarding as sunseekers do.

Koh Kong City

%035 / Pop 36,000

Once Cambodia’s Wild West, its frontier economy dominated by smuggling, prostitution and gambling, the city of Koh Kong, eponymous capital of the province, is striding towards respectability as ecotourists scare the sleaze away.

Koh Kong City

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Ritthy's Koh Kong Eco Adventure ToursA2

4Sleeping

2Koh Kong City HotelA2

5Eating

3Baan PeakmaiA2

4Café LaurentA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

5Fat Sam'sB2

Transport

Phnom Penh SoryaB2

1Sights & Activities

Koh Kong’s main draw is for those seeking adventure in and around the Cardamom Mountains and the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor.

Peam Krasaop Mangrove SanctuaryNATURE RESERVE

(ជម្រកសត្វព្រៃបឹងក្រយ៉ាក នៅពាមក្រសោប admission 5000r; h6.30am-6pm)

Anchored to alluvial islands – some no larger than a house – this 260-sq-km sanctuary’s magnificent mangroves protect the coast from erosion, serve as a vital breeding and feeding ground for fish, shrimp and shellfish, and are home to myriad birds.

To get a feel for the delicate mangrove ecosystem, explore the 600m-long concrete mangrove walk, which wends its way above the briny waters to a 15m observation tower. The entrance is 5.5km southeast of Koh Kong. A moto/remork costs US$5/10 return.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

KOH KONG ISLAND

The west coast of Cambodia's largest island shelters seven pristine beaches fringed with coconut palms and lush vegetation, just as you'd expect in a true tropical paradise. At the sixth beach from the north, a narrow channel leads to a Gilligan's Island–style lagoon.

Koh Kong Island Resort (%035-936371; www.kohkongisland.net; Koh Kong Island; bungalows d US$25-50, f US$70) offers daily transport on its boat for US$15 per person, departing Koh Kong City at 8.30am and returning at 3pm. Book in advance.

TTours

Boat tours are an excellent way to view Koh Kong’s many coastal attractions. English-speaking Teur (%016 278668) hangs around the boat dock and can help you hire six-passenger (40-horsepower) and three-passenger (15-horsepower) outboards (speedboats). Destinations include Koh Kong Island's western beaches (big/small boats US$80/50), around Koh Kong Island (US$120/90) and Peam Krasaop Mangrove Sanctuary (US$40/30).

Ritthy's Koh Kong Eco Adventure ToursADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 707719; www.kohkongecoadventure.com; St 1; h8am-9pm)

A one-stop shop for all your tour needs in Koh Kong, this is the longest-running ecotourism operator in town. Ritthy’s excursions include excellent Koh Kong Island boat tours, birdwatching, and jungle treks in the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor. The overnight jungle trekking and camping excursions (per person one night US$35, two nights US$70) get great reviews from travellers.

4Sleeping

Some places pay moto drivers a commission, leading to a whole lot of shenanigans.

oKoh Kong City HotelHOTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %035-936777; http://kkcthotel.netkhmer.com; St 1; r US$15-20; aiW)

Ludicrous value for what you get: squeaky-clean rooms include a huge bathroom, two double beds, 50 TV channels, full complement of toiletries, free water and – in the US$20 rooms – glorious river views. Friendly staff top off the experience.

Oasis Bungalow ResortBUNGALOW$$

(%092 228342; http://oasisresort.netkhmer.com; d/tr US$30/35; aWs)

Surrounded by lush forest 2km north of Koh Kong centre, Oasis really lives up to its name. Five large, airy bungalows set around a gorgeous infinity pool with views of the Cardamoms provide a tranquil base in which to chill out and reset your travel batteries. To get here, follow the blue signs from Acleda Bank.

5Eating & Drinking

Baan PeakmaiASIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 1; mains 7000-15,000r; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm; v)

Sure, you'd find more ambience in a paper bag but don't be put off by the plain-Jane decor. Baan Peakmai does a fine line in pan-Asian dishes with large portions and on-the-ball service. The menu romps through Thai, Chinese and Khmer favourites and there are plenty of vegetarian options.

oCafé LaurentINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 1; mains US$4-15; h10.30am-11pm Wed-Mon; W)

This chic waterfront cafe and restaurant offers atmospheric dining in over-water pavilions where you can sit back and watch the sunset while feasting on refined Western and Khmer cuisine. As well as French-accented steaks and a decent pasta menu, there's a huge range of fresh seafood and Asian classics, all served with fine-dining panache.

Fat Sam’sBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off St 3; h9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 4-10pm Sun; W)

This informal, Welsh-run bar-restaurant has a decent selection of beers, spirits and wines and an impressive food menu that runs the full gamut from fish-and-chips and chilli con carne to authentic Khmer and Thai favourites. Useful travel information is dished out for free, plus there are motorbikes available for rent.

8Information

Guesthouses, hotels and pubs are the best places to get the local low-down. You can also look for the free Koh Kong Visitors Guide (www.koh-kong.com), which is mostly advertisements.

Canadia BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; St 1; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)

Sen Sok ClinicMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %012 555060; kkpao@camintel.com; St 3; h24hr)

Has doctors who speak English and French.

8Getting There & Away

Most buses drop passengers at Koh Kong’s unpaved bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; St 12), on the northeast edge of town, where motos and remorks await, eager to overcharge tourists. Don’t pay more than US$1/2 for the three-minute moto/remork ride into the centre.

Rith Mony ( GOOGLE MAP ; %012 640344; St 3), Phnom Penh Sorya ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %077 563447; St 3), Olympic Transport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011 363678; St 3) and Virak Buntham ( GOOGLE MAP ; %089 998760; St 3) each runs two or three buses to Phnom Penh (US$7, six hours, last departure at 11.30am) and one or two trips to Sihanoukville (US$8 to US$10, five hours).

Virak Buntham and Rith Mony offer midday trips to Bangkok with a bus change at the border (US$20, eight hours). There are also trips to Koh Chang (US$14, including ferry) with a change of bus at the border, plus a local ferry to the island.

From the taxi lot next to the bus station, share taxis head to Phnom Penh (US$11, five hours) and occasionally to Sihanoukville (US$10, four hours).

8Getting Around

Ritthy's Koh Kong Eco Adventure Tours rents out bicycles for half-/full day US$1/2, as well as motorbikes.

Koh Kong Conservation Corridor របៀង​​អភិរក្ស​​ខេត្ត​​កោះកុង

Stretching along both sides of NH48 from Koh Kong to the Gulf of Kompong Som, the Koh Kong Conservation Corridor encompasses many of Cambodia’s most outstanding natural sites, including the most extensive mangrove forests on mainland Southeast Asia and the southern reaches of the fabled Cardamom Mountains, an area of breathtaking beauty and astonishing biodiversity.

The next few years will be critical in determining the future of the Cardamom Mountains. NGOs such as Conservation International (www.conservation.org), Fauna & Flora International (www.fauna-flora.org) and Wildlife Alliance (www.wildlifealliance.org) are working to help protect the region’s 16 distinct ecosystems from loggers and poachers. Ecotourism is playing a huge role in their plans – Wildlife Alliance is promoting several enticing projects in the Southern Cardamoms Protected Forest (1443 sq km).

Tatai Waterfall

About 18km east of Koh Kong on the NH48, the Phun Daung (Tatai) Bridge spans the Tatai River. Nestled in a lushly forested gorge upstream from the bridge is the Tatai Waterfall, a thundering set of rapids in the wet season, plunging over a 4m rock shelf. Water levels drop in the dry season but you can swim year-round in refreshing pools around the waterfall.

The turn-off to Tatai is about 15km southeast of Koh Kong, or 2.8km northwest of the Tatai Bridge. From the highway it’s about 2km to the falls along a rough access road. From Koh Kong, a half-day moto/remork excursion to Tatai Waterfall costs US$10/15 return.

CHI PHAT

Once notorious for its loggers and poachers, Chi Phat is now home to a pioneering community-based ecotourism project, established by WIldlife Alliance (www.wildlifealliance.org), which offers adventurous travellers a unique opportunity to explore the Cardamoms ecosystem while contributing to its protection. Visitors can take day treks through the jungle, go sunrise birdwatching by boat, mountain bike to several sets of rapids, and look for monkeys and hornbills with a former poacher as a guide. Also possible are one- to four-night mountain-bike safaris and jungle treks deep into the Cardamoms. In the village, visitors can relax by playing volleyball, badminton or pool with the locals.

Basic accommodation options in Chi Phat include 18 CBET-member guesthouses (US$5 to US$6) and 13 homestays (US$4). Reserve through the CBET Community Visitor Centre (%035-6756444, 092 720925; www.chi-phat.org; Chi Phat; h7am-7pm) in Chi Phat. Meals are available at the visitor centre, costing US$2.50 for breakfast or US$3.50 for lunch and dinner. On busy nights, the centre doubles as a bar of sorts.

Chi Phat is on the Preak Piphot River 17km upriver from Andoung Tuek, which is 98km east of Koh Kong on the NH48. Any Koh Kong–bound bus can drop you in Andoung Tuek. From Andoung Tuek to Chi Phat it’s a two-hour boat (US$10 per person, 1pm) or a 45-minute motorbike ride (US$7) on an unpaved but smooth road. Call the CBET office to arrange a boat or moto in advance.

Sihanoukville

%034 / Pop 91,000

Surrounded by white-sand beaches and relatively undeveloped tropical islands, Sihanoukville (aka Kompong Som) is Cambodia’s premier seaside resort. While backpackers flock to the party zone of Serendipity Beach, the gorgeous Otres Beach, south of town, has made an incredible comeback and is now equally popular for a more relaxed stay. It's also the jumping-off point for Cambodia's southern islands, where castaway-cool beckons.

1Sights & Activities

Coastal Ream National Park, 15km east of Sihanoukville, offers invigorating boat trips through coastal mangroves and long stretches of unspoilt beach, not to mention trekking in primary forest.

Beaches

Sihanoukville’s beaches all have wildly different characters, offering something for just about everyone. Most central is Occheuteal Beach, lined with ramshackle restaurants, whose northwestern end – a tiny, rocky strip – has emerged as a happy, easy-going travellers’ hang-out known as Serendipity Beach.

South of Occheuteal Beach, beyond a small headland, lies Otres Beach, lined by dozens of bungalow-style restaurants and resorts. Otres has cleaner water and is more relaxed than anything in Sihanoukville proper, and is lengthy enough that finding your own patch of private sand is not a challenge...just walk south. Otres Beach is about 5km south of the Serendipity area. It’s a US$2/5 moto/remork ride to get here (more at night).

One beach north of Serendipity lies Sihanoukville’s prettiest beach, 1.5km-long Sokha Beach. Its fine, silicon-like sand squeaks loudly underfoot. The tiny eastern end of Sokha Beach is open to the public and rarely crowded. The rest is part of the exclusive Sokha Beach Resort.

Moving north from Sokha Beach, you'll hit Independence Beach near the classic Independence Hotel, most of which has been taken over by a huge new development, and the original backpacker beach, Victory Beach, now under Russian management. The latter is clean, orderly and devoid of buzz.

Diving

The diving near Sihanoukville isn't Southeast Asia's finest. It gets better the further out you go, although you still shouldn’t expect anything on a par with the western Gulf of Thailand or the Andaman Sea. Most serious trips will hit Koh Rong Sanloem, while overnight trips target the distant islands of Koh Tang and Koh Prins. Overnight trips cost about US$100 per day including two daily dives, food, accommodation on an island and equipment. Two-tank dives out of Sihanoukville average US$80 including equipment. PADI open-water courses average about US$400 to US$450, pretty competitive by world standards.

Scuba NationDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 604680; www.divecambodia.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; 2-dive package US$85, PADI Open Water US$445; h8am-6.30pm)

The longest-running dive operator in Sihanoukville, Scuba Nation is a PADI five-star centre with a comfortable boat for day and liveaboard trips.

Dive ShopDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %034-933664; www.diveshopcambodia.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; PADI Discover Scuba US$95, 1-/2-dive package US$65/80; h9am-7pm)

PADI five-star dive centre offering full gamut of PADI courses, as well as fun-dives and liveaboards. Also has a dive shop on Koh Rong Sanloem.

Massage

NGO-trained blind and disabled masseurs deftly ease away the tension at Seeing Hands Massage 3 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 95 Ekareach St; per hr US$6; h8am-9pm) and Starfish Bakery & Café ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; off 7 Makara St; per hr US$6-10; h7am-6pm).

CCourses

Don Bosco Hotel Khmer Cooking CourseCOOKING

(%034-934478; www.donboscohotelschool.com/cooking; Don Bosco Hotel School, Ou Phram St; per person US$30)S

The cooking classes here provide a great opportunity to support the worthy Don Bosco Hotel School plus learn some Khmer culinary skills. They include a trip to the market and a slap-up three-course lunch (which you've helped create), as well as a tour of the hotel school. Classes usually run from 10am to 12.30pm on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

TTours

Popular day tours go to some of the closer islands and to Ream National Park. Booze cruises are popular.

Eco-Trek ToursADVENTURE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 987073; www.ecotourscambodia.com; h8am-10pm)

This travel agency runs highly recommended boat tours and trekking trips to Ream National Park as well as boat trips around the islands.

Party BoatBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thepartyboat.asia; Serendipity Beach Pier; per person US$25)

The daily cruise (9.30am to 5pm) to Koh Rong Sanloem includes snacks, lunch, snorkelling and a free drink. It also runs return transport to Koh Rong Island's full-moon parties leaving Sihanoukville at 5pm and returning around 8am.

Sihanoukville City Centre

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Seeing Hands Massage 3C3

Starfish Bakery & CaféC2

5Eating

2Holy CowC3

3Samudera SupermarketC2

4Starfish Bakery & CaféC2

4Sleeping

Most backpackers shoot for the Serendipity area if they want to party, Otres Beach if they want to chill. Other decent options exist in the town centre (for those who want to escape tourists) and on long-running Victory Hill, a former backpacker ghetto that is now one of Sihanoukville's sleazier strips. There are popular bungalow resorts popping up all over the islands off Sihanoukville.

Serendipity & Occheuteal

The road to Serendipity is the main backpacker hang-out, while down the hill tiny Serendipity Beach offers a string of mellow midrange resorts perched over the rocky shoreline.

Monkey RepublicHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 490290; http://monkeyrepublic.info; Serendipity Beach Rd; dm US$6, r with fan US$15-22, r with air-con/US$18-30; aiW)

Self-proclaimed 'backpacker central', Monkey Republic rose from the ashes in 2013 following a dramatic fire (no casualties). It offers decent dorms and plain, affordable rooms in a building fronted by a yellow French colonial facade. The bar-restaurant constantly heaves with young travellers.

Big EasyHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %081 943930; Serendipity Beach Rd; dm US$3, r US$6-10; W)

This classic backpacker joint is accommodation, comfort food and a lively rock bar all rolled into one. Rooms are basic but you'll most likely spend your time in the bar, which has a great vibe with occasional live music and live EPL games.

One Stop HostelHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %096 3390005; onestophostelshv@gmail.com; Golden Lions Roundabout; dm US$7; aWs)

Dorm beds just got a makeover. The eight-bed dorms here, decked out in lashings of white-on-white, boast beds with individual reading lamps and luggage lock-boxes. Rooms are centred around a wall-to-ceiling glassed courtyard with a small pool, proving slick styling doesn't have to cost the earth.

Chochi GardenGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %070 865640; www.chochigarden.com; Serendipity Beach Rd; r with fan/air-con US$15/25; naW)

Finally! Serendipity gets its first boutique backpacker pad. Italian-Japanese couple Francesca and Taka have created the nearest Serendipity gets to a tranquil oasis right in the heart of the action. Out front is a cool bar/restaurant while simple rooms, some with palm-thatch roofs and pretty painted window-grills, are in a plant-filled garden strewn with comfy seating areas.

SPLURGE

The pick of the pack when it comes to affordable atmosphere in the Serendipity area is Ropanha Boutique Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 556654; www.ropanha-boutiquehotel.com; 23 Tola St; r incl breakfast US$45-55; aWs). Set around a lush courtyard garden and pool, rooms include flat-screen TVs and accompanying DVD players, plus rain showers in the bathroom. Deluxe rooms have pool views but all have lashings of white and are exceptionally well cared for.

Otres Beach

Most guesthouses are in a cluster about 1km south of Queen Hill Resort, an area known as Otres 1. About 2.5km of empty beach separates this cluster from a smaller, more isolated colony of resorts at the far southern end of the beach, known as Otres 2.

oWish You Were HereHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %097 241 5884; http://wishotres.com; Otres 1; dm US$6, r US$14-16, bungalows US$18; nW)

This rickety wooden building is one of the hippest hang-outs in Otres. Rooms are simple but the balcony upstairs encourages serious sloth-time and the bar-restaurant downstairs has a great vibe thanks to chilled-out tunes and friendly staff.

SeaGardenBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %096 2538131; www.seagardenotres.com; Otres 1; dm US$5, r US$15-20; W)

Look no further for a cheap bungalow right on the sand. SeaGarden offers basic beach huts, and rooms in a stilted building, both on the beach. The new owner keeps everything neat as a pin and was building a spacious dorm when we last pulled into town.

HaciendaHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %070 814643; Otres Village; dm US$4, r US$8-15; W)

Hacienda is a laid-back backpacker zone on Otres' estuary with cheap dorm beds and basic bungalows. There's also a popular bar-restaurant that often breaks into a party.

Mushroom PointBUNGALOW$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %078 509079; www.mushroompoint.com; Otres 1; dm US$8, bungalow US$25-30; W)

The open-air dorm in the shape of a mushroom wins the award for most creative in Cambodia. Even those averse to communal living will be content in their mosquito-net–draped pods, good for two. Quirky 'shroom-shaped bungalows are beautifully conceived with hammocks outside for lounging. The beach annex has more bungalows and a bar.

Serendipity

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1Dive ShopB1

2Eco-Trek ToursB2

3Party BoatB3

4Scuba NationB2

4Sleeping

5Big EasyB1

6Chochi GardenB2

7Monkey RepublicB1

8One Stop HostelC1

9Ropanha Boutique HotelD3

5Eating

10Cafe MangoB2

11Dao of LifeB1

12NyamC2

13SandanB1

14SoB2

6Drinking & Nightlife

15JJ's PlaygroundC3

16Led ZephyrB2

17SessionsB3

7Shopping

18TapangB2

5Eating

Sihanoukville’s centre of culinary gravity is the Serendipity area.

Serendipity Area

For romance, nothing beats dining on the water, either at one of the resorts at Serendipity Beach or – more cheaply – in one of the shacks along adjacent Occheuteal Beach.

NyamCAMBODIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.nyamsihanoukville.com; 23 Tola St; mains US$2-4.25; h5-10pm; W)

Translating as 'Eat' in Khmer, this is a great spot for a contemporary Cambodian dinner experience. All the favourites are here such as amoc (baked fish dish), but there are also some healthy seafood offerings reflecting the coastal location.

Cafe MangoITALIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Serendipity St; mains US$3-6; h7am-10pm; W)

A cracking little Italian cafe turning out wood-fired pizzas, home-made pasta and delicate gnocchi. Dine at lunchtime or before 6.30pm for a main course accompanied by garlic bread or bruschetta and a drink for just US$5.

oSandanCAMBODIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Thnou St; mains US$4-10; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; Wc)S

Loosely modelled on the beloved Phnom Penh restaurant Romdeng, this superb restaurant is an extension of the vocational-training programs for at-risk Cambodians run by local NGO M’lop Tapang. The menu features creative Cambodian cuisine targeted at a slightly upscale clientele. There’s a kids’ play area and occasional cultural shows.

SoINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Serendipity Beach Rd; mains US$4-10; h8am-10pm; W)

So is renowned for serving up some of Serendipity's tastiest cuisine. Come for dinner when the candles come out, the menu changes and the top chef is in action. Specialities include wasabi prawns and baked scallops in wine sauce. Early diners benefit from two courses for US$5 between 5pm and 6.30pm.

Around the City

Starfish Bakery & CaféCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.starfishcambodia.org; off 7 Makara St; sandwiches US$2.50-4.50; h7am-6pm; Wv)S

This relaxing, NGO-run garden cafe specialises in filling Western breakfasts, baked cakes and tarts, and healthy, innovative sandwiches heavy on Mexican and Middle Eastern flavours. Sitting down for coffee here on the shady terrace is a peaceful reprieve from Sihanoukville's hustle. Income goes to sustainable development projects.

Dao of LifeVEGAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Serendipity Beach Rd; mains US$3.50-6; h8am-3pm & 6pm-10pm Tue-Sun ; Wv)S

This rooftop cafe, full of hammocks and recycled furniture, dishes up creative and tasty vegan meals. The veggie burger (made from sweet potato and black beans) is particularly good, or tuck into healthy options such as spiralized zucchini linguine. It has movie nights every Wednesday and regularly hosts social projects with local community involvement.

Samudera SupermarketSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 64 7 Makara St; h6am-10pm)

Good selection of fruit, veggies and imported food brands, including European cheeses and wine.

Holy CowINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 83 Ekareach St; mains US$2.50-7; h8.30am-11pm; Wv)

As well as solid comfort food such as pasta, burgers and shepherd's pie, this funky cafe-restaurant dishes up bagels with cream cheese, sandwiches on home-made bread and a good selection of veggie options. The menu includes two vegan desserts, both involving chocolate.

6Drinking & Nightlife

The party tends to start up on the road to Serendipity before heading downhill (literally and figuratively) to the all-night beach discos along Occheuteal Beach. A few long-standing regular bars remain amid the hostess bars of Victory Hill, but the overall impression is Sinville rather than the more relaxed beach vibe of Sihanoukville.

Some of the guesthouses have lively bars, including Monkey Republic (happy hour 6pm to 9pm), the Big Easy and Wish You Were Here.

SessionsBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Occheuteal Beach; h5pm-1am)

The music selection makes Sessions the top sundowner bar on Occheuteal Beach. The crowd of expats and backpackers assembled usually lingers well into the evening before the hard-core partiers move on to the late-night venues.

Led ZephyrBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Serendipity Beach Rd; h7am-midnight)

Sihanoukville's premier live-music venue, the house band (and friends from time to time) are rockin' here most nights. Covers include many of the big anthems from the '60s to '80s, with a bit of Chilli Peppers thrown in for good measure.

JJ’s PlaygroundBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Occheuteal Beach; h6pm-6am)

For a while now JJ’s has been the go-to spot for those seeking late-night debauchery. The scene here is pretty much summed up by their tag line 'let's get wasted'. Expect shots, loud techno, a fire show or two, and a lot of chaos. And don't say we didn't warn you about the toilets.

7Shopping

TapangARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mloptapang.org; Serendipity Beach Rd; h10am-8pm)S

Run by a local NGO that works with at-risk children, this shop sells good-quality bags, scarves and T-shirts made by street kids (and their families) so that they can attend school instead of peddling on the beach.

8Information

Internet cafes (per hour 4000r) are sprinkled along the road to Serendipity and, in the city centre, along Ekareach St near Sopheakmongkol St.

Theft is a problem, especially on Occheuteal Beach, so leave your valuables in your room. As in Phnom Penh, drive-by bag snatchings occasionally happen and are especially dangerous when you’re riding a moto. Hold your shoulder bags tightly in front of you. At night, both men and women should avoid walking alone along dark, isolated beaches and roads.

Ana TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %034-933929; Serendipity Beach Rd; h8am-10pm)

Handles Cambodia visa extensions and arranges Vietnam visas the same day.

ANZ Royal BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 215 Ekareach St; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)

Canadia BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 197 Ekareach St; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)

CT ClinicMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %081 886666, 034-936666; 47 Boray Kamakor St; hemergencies 24hr)

The best medical clinic in town. Can administer rabies shots, and antivenin in the event of a snake bite.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Cambodia Angkor Airlines (%023 6660330; www.cambodiaangkorair.com) has direct flights from Sihanoukville to Phnom Penh and Siem Reap daily. The airport is 15km east of town, just off the NH4. Figure on US$5/10 for a one-way moto/remork.

Bus

All of the major bus companies have frequent connections with Phnom Penh (US$5 to US$11, four to five hours) from early morning until at least 2pm, after which trips are sporadic.

Kampot Tours & Travel runs minibuses to Kampot (US$6, 1½ hours), which continue to Kep (US$8, 2½ hours). Travel agents can arrange hotel pick-ups.

Virak Buntham and Rith Mony have morning buses to Bangkok (US$28, change buses on the Thai side) via Koh Kong (US$8, four hours). GST and Virak Buntham have night buses to Siem Reap (US$13 to US$17).

Most bus departures originate at the company terminals on Ekareach St and stop at the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Mittapheap Kampuchea Soviet St) on the way out of town.

A Main Bus Companies:

Capitol TourBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %034-934042; 169 Ekareach St)

Giant IbisBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %089 999818; www.giantibis.com; Thnou St)

GSTBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %015 995950; Ekareach St)

Kampot Tours & TravelBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %in Kampot 092 125556; Ana Travel, Serendipity Beach Rd)

Phnom Penh SoryaBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %034-933888; 236 Ekareach St)

Rith MonyBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %093 465858; Ekareach St)

Virak BunthamBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %016 754358; Ekareach St)

Share Taxi

Cramped share taxis (US$6 per person, US$45 per car) to Phnom Penh depart from the new bus station until about 8pm. Share taxis to Kampot (US$5, 1½ hours) leave mornings only from an open lot on 7 Makara St, across from Psar Leu. This lot and the new bus station are good places to look for rides to Koh Kong or the Thai border (US$45 to US$60 to charter).

8Getting Around

Arriving in Sihanoukville, most buses terminate at the bus station and do not continue to their central terminals. Prices to the Serendipity Beach area from the bus station are fixed at a pricey US$2/6 for a moto/remork. You can do better by walking out to the street.

A moto/remork should cost about US$1/2 from the city centre to Serendipity, but overcharging is rife.

Motorbikes can be rented from many guesthouses for US$5 to US$7 a day. For fundraising purposes, the police sometimes ‘crack down’ on foreign drivers. Common violations: no driver’s licence, no helmet or driving with the lights on during the day.

Bicycles can be hired from many guesthouses for about US$2 a day, or try Eco-Trek Tours for mountain bikes.

Southern Islands

They may lack the cachet of Southern Thailand, but the two dozen or so islands that dot the Cambodian coast offer the chance to see what places like Koh Samui and Koh Pha-Ngan were like back in the early days of Southeast Asia overland travel. This is paradise the way you dreamt it: endless crescents of powdered sugary-soft sand, hammocks swaying in the breeze, photogenic fishing villages on stilts, technicolour sunsets and the patter of raindrops on thatch as you slumber. It seems too good to last and pockets of Koh Rong are already getting a tad rowdy. Enjoy it while you can.

8Getting There & Away

The logical jumping-off point for the most popular islands is Sihanoukville. Scheduled boat services link Sihanoukville with Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem. Other islands are reached by private boats, usually owned by the resort you’re visiting.

Koh Rong & Koh Rong Sanloem កោះរុង និងកោះ​រុងសន្លឹម

These deceptively large neighbouring islands are the rapidly emerging pearls of the South Coast. They boast isolated white-sand beaches and heavily forested interiors populated by an incredible variety of wildlife.

Plans to turn Koh Rong into a Cambodian version of Thailand’s Koh Samui, complete with ring road and airport, have stalled, allowing DIY developers to move in with rustic resorts targeting backpackers. The epicentre of the action is rapidly developing Koh Tuch Beach on Koh Rong's southeastern corner, which hosts a fabled full-moon party once a month.

If you want to hang out with fellow travellers, hit an all-night rave and crash out on the sand during the day, Koh Rong's the spot. Those looking for a more relaxed vibe would be wise to pick a bungalow-resort well away from Koh Tuch village (on lovely Long Beach or the even less imaginatively named 4km Beach) or head to Koh Rong Sanloem.

However, be aware that security can be an issue on Koh Rong, with incidents of theft and occasional attacks on female tourists in remote parts of the island, so do not go walking in the jungle interior alone.

Koh Rong Sanloem is also taking off. Several colonies of bungalows have sprung up on Saracen Bay on the east coast, and more isolated options exist elsewhere on the island. Those looking for an alternative island experience can head to the village of M'Pai Bay at the island's northern tip, which has an authentic local vibe that will suit the more intrepid.

2Activities

High Point Rope AdventureADVENTURE SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %016 839993; www.high-point.asia; Koh Tuch village; per person US$35; h9am-6pm)

A collection of ziplines, swing bridges and walking cables take thrill-seekers on an adrenalin-packed, 400m-long journey through the forest canopy, not far from Koh Tuch. Your ticket gets you unlimited access to the course for the entire day. From April to October, tickets are US$10 cheaper.

Koh Rong Dive CenterDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %034-934744; kohrong-divecenter.com; Koh Rong Pier)

Koh Rong's main dive centre organises trips in the waters around both Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem.

4Sleeping & Eating

Most island resorts run their generators from about 6pm to 10.30pm.

Koh Rong

Natural LoungeGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %069 541177; hengseksa@gmail.com; Koh Tuch; dm US$8, r with/without bathroom from US$30/20; W)

A family-run calm oasis amid the Koh Tuch hubbub with small, spotless, wood-floored rooms set around a leafy courtyard. Downstairs there's a couple of bijou ensuite rooms with two double beds that you could fit four people in if you don't mind a squeeze.

Green Ocean GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %096 9169267; mengly007@gmail.com; Koh Tuch; dm US$8-10, d US$25; W)

The recently renovated rooms with tiled floors here are some of the nicest, and most spacious, in Koh Tuch village. There's a great communal balcony out front and the 12-bed dorm has sea views.

VagabondsHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.vagabondskohrong.com; Koh Tuch; dm US$5, r with shared bathroom US$10)

Firstly, you don't come here for the facilities. Bare-bones rooms and four-bed dorms (with lockers) are made cheery by colourful murals. Vagabonds' following is instead due to friendly staff and the fun vibe of the cafe downstairs which dishes up huge portions of comfort food (US$3 to $5). Walk-ins only.

Loops BarINTERNATIONAL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Koh Tuch; mains US$2.50-5.50; h8am-11pm; W)

Downstairs from Dreamcatch Inn is this cafe-bar decorated with recycled water bottles, strung from the ceiling as pot plants. Breakfast options are stellar and include fruity French toast with a tropical twist and coconut muesli. Lunch and dinner feature decent Khmer options along with comfort food classics such as bangers and mash. Manager Te puts on a fire-poi show every Saturday night.

Koh Rong Sanloem

The Beach ResortRESORT$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %034-666 6106; www.thebeachresort.asia; Saracen Bay; dm US$7.50, bungalow with/without bathroom US$35/25, deluxe US$50-85; W)

This lively resort caters for the full gamut of budgets with an open-air dorm, bijou seafront bungalows and deluxe stone-walled options. It's also the stop-off point for Sihanoukville's Party Boat, whose day-trippers fill up the bar area most afternoons, which – depending on your outlook – will either be a major plus or minus to staying here.

Easy TigerGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %096 9153370; www.easytigerbungalows.com; M'Pai Bay; dm US$7.50, r/bungalow US$15/30)

This friendly guesthouse in M'Pai Bay village has plenty of home-spun appeal, thanks to its helpful owners. There are simple dorms and small private rooms in the main building. Out back are sturdy basic bungalows with large verandas for those seeking more privacy.

The DriftGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %015 865388; www.thedriftcambodia.com; M'Pai Bay; dm/r US$8/15)

A new player on the M'Pai Bay scene, The Drift has spic-and-span dorms and a couple of private rooms in a cute wooden house on the sand. There's a good social vibe with home-cooked meals (US$3) often eaten communally.

Fishing HookINTERNATIONAL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; M'Pai Bay; mains US$2.50-5.50; h6-10.30pm)

Some of the finest food on Koh Rong Sanloem is served up at this place perched on M'Pai Bay pier. The menu waltzes from Khmer-influenced seafood (such as grilled fish in tamarind sauce) to more global offerings, while the cushion-strewn dining terrace over the water is the epitome of beach-casual ambience.

8Getting There & Away

From Koh Tuch on Koh Rong, Speed Ferry Cambodia ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.speedferrycambodia.com; one way/return US$13/26) departs for Sihanoukville at 10am, noon and 4pm daily; and the TBC Speed Boat ( GOOGLE MAP ; %088 7811711; www.tbckohrongspeedboat.com; one way/return US$12.50/$20) to Sihanoukville leaves at 10.30am, 1.30am and 4pm. Both journeys take between 45 minutes and one hour.

Both companies also connect Saracen Bay on Koh Rong Sanloem with Sihanoukville. Speed Ferry Cambodia has departures from Saracen Bay Pier at 9.30am and 3.30pm, which then continue on to drop off/pick up passengers at M'Pai Bay (about 15 minutes later), and Koh Rong Island (US$5 to hop between the islands) before heading for Sihanoukville. TBC Speed Boat departs Saracen Bay Pier for Sihanoukville at 10.30am, 1.30pm and 4pm.

If you have a return ticket, go to the relevant ferry office the day before you want to travel to make sure of a seat. During high season extra ferry times are usually added. When sea conditions are bad (particularly from June to October) ferries are sometimes cancelled. Ticket prices drop from June to October.

Other Islands

Closer to Sihanoukville, Koh Ta Kiev and Koh Russei appear on most island-hopping itineraries out of Sihanoukville, with day trips running from US$12 to US$15 depending whether you launch from Otres Beach or Serendipity Beach. Both islands have accommodation, although both are slated for development.

Kampot

%033 / Pop 39,500

There is something about this little charmer that encourages visitors to linger. It might be the lovely riverside setting or the ageing French buildings, or it could be the great little guesthouses and burgeoning bar scene. Whatever the magic ingredient, this is the perfect base from which to explore nearby caves and tackle Bokor Hill Station.

Kampot

1Sights

1Kampot Traditional Music SchoolA2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

Captain Chim'sB2

2Seeing Hands Massage 5A3

3Sok Lim ToursB3

4Sleeping

4Captain Chim's GuesthouseB2

5Magic SpongeB3

5Eating

6Cafe EspressoA2

7Epic Arts CaféA2

8Rusty KeyholeA2

6Drinking & Nightlife

9KAMAA3

10Oh NeilsA2

1Sights & Activities

This is not a town where you come and do, but a place to come and be. Sit on the riverbank and watch the sun set beneath the mountains, or stroll among the town’s fine French shophouses (in the triangle delineated by 7 Makara St, the central roundabout and the post office).

Kampot Traditional Music SchoolCULTURAL CENTRE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kcdi-cambodia.com; St 724; h2-5pm Mon-Tue & 5-7pm Fri)SF

During visitor hours you are welcome to observe traditional music and dance training sessions and/or performances at this school that trains children who are orphaned or have disabilities. Donations are very welcome.

Seeing Hands Massage 5MASSAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; River Rd; per hr US$5; h7am-11pm)

Blind masseurs offer soothing bliss.

TTours

The big tour is Bokor Hill Station, which everybody and their grandmother offers. Excursions also hit the pepper farms and other sights in the countryside around Kampot and nearby Kep.

Some of the riverside places send boats out on evening firefly-watching tours. Many a sceptic has returned from these trips in awe.

Bart the BoatmanBOATING

(%092 174280; 2 people US$40)

Known simply as Bart the Boatman, this Belgian expat runs original private boat tours along the small tributaries of the Kampong Bay River. His backwater tour is highly recommended by travellers.

Captain Chim’sBOATING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 321043; Captain Chim's Guesthouse, St 724; sunset boat trip per person US$5)

Sunset cruises and firefly-watching trips on a traditional boat include a cold beer and are a real bargain. Also on offer are fishing trips for US$11 including lunch, and bicycle hire (US$2 per day).

ClimbodiaCLIMBING

(%095 581951; www.climbodia.com; Phnom Kbal Romeas, off NH33; half-day US$35-40, full day US$70)

Cambodia's first outdoor rock-climbing outfit offers highly recommended half-day and full-day programs of climbing, abseiling and caving amid the limestone formations of Phnom Kbal Romeas, 5km south of Kampot. Via ferratas (cabled routes) have been established across some of the cliffs and the variety of programs caters for both complete novices and the more experienced.

SUP AsiaWATER SPORTS

(%093 980550; www.supasia.org; Kompong Bay River east bank; 2½hr tour US$25; hdaily mid-Oct–Jul)

SUP (stand-up paddleboarding) has come to Kampot in a big way with this company offering an alternative form of touring the river. Daily tours depart at 8.30am and 3.30pm, taking in the riverbank sights of the local area (with a SUP lesson beforehand). There's also a two-day (18km) trip that traverses the Kampong Bay River to the sea.

Sok Lim ToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 796919; www.soklimtours.com; St 730; h8am-7pm)

Kampot’s longest-running outfit is well-regarded and organises all the usual day tours and river cruises. For private countryside tours they have good English-speaking remork driver-guides that understand the process and history behind Kampot pepper. If there's no one in the actual office, they'll be in the neighbouring Jack's Place restaurant.

4Sleeping

You can stay in the centre of the old town, or stay a little out of town in one of several places strung out along the riverbank.

Magic SpongeGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017 946428; www.magicspongekampot.com; St 730; dm US$4, r with air-con US$10-15, without air-con US$15-20; naW)

This popular backpacker place has a rooftop dorm with impressive through breezes, personalised fans and reading lights. Good-value private rooms are exceptionally well cared for and bright. Downstairs is a movie lounge and a lively bar-restaurant with happy hours from noon to 8pm and well-regarded Indian food.

Arcadia BackpackersHOSTEL$

(%077 219756; www.arcadiabackpackers.com; Tuk Chhou Rd; dm US$5-8, r with bathroom US$17-20, without bathroom US$10, bungalow US$25; W)

Kampot's biggest backpacker party scene, Arcadia is about sunbathing on the river pontoon during the day and later, joining in the revelry at the bar-restaurant that regularly cranks into the wee hours. Those after some semblance of sleep would be wise not to opt for the US$5 dorm.

Naga HouseBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %012 289916; www.facebook.com/nagahousekampot; Tuk Chhou Rd; bungalow US$7-12; W)

This classic backpacker hang-out offers basic ground-level and stilted thatched bungalows (all with shared bathroom) amid lush foliage. There's an extremely social bar-restaurant on the riverfront that often rocks into the night and regularly hosts live music and DJ sets.

Captain Chim's GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 321043; facebook.com/captainchimsguesthousekampot; St 724; dm US$3, r with/without air-con US$13/8; aW)

This family-run guesthouse offers simple, spic-and-span rooms and a spacious dorm with its own balcony. Bathrooms only have cold water. Guests get free laundry and free bicycle hire.

5Eating & Drinking

Cafe EspressoCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 731; mains US$4-6; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat & Sun; Wv)

A blink-and-you'll-miss-it cafe; we advise you don't blink. The Aussie owners are real foodies and offer a global menu that traipses from vegetarian quesadillas to Brazilian-style pork sandwiches with some especially tempting breakfast options. But it is caffeine-cravers who will be really buzzing, thanks to their regionally grown coffee blends, roasted daily in house.

Epic Arts CaféCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.epicarts.org.uk; St 724; mains US$2-4; h7am-4pm; W)S

A great place for breakfast, home-made cakes, infused tea and light lunches, this mellow eatery is staffed by young people who are deaf or have a disability. Profits fund arts workshops for Cambodians with a disability and it's possible to learn some sign language at 3pm every Friday.

Rusty KeyholeINTERNATIONAL$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; River Rd; small/large/extra-large ribs US$5/7.50/10; h8am-11pm Nov-May, 11am-11pm Jun-Oct; W)

This popular riverfront bar-restaurant turns out a global menu of comfort food and Khmer home cooking. Most people are here for the famous ribs; order in advance, but beware the enormous extra-large portions.

KAMABAR

(Kampot Arts and Music Association; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 726; h6pm-midnight Wed-Sun; W)

Owned by Julien Poulson, a founding member of the acclaimed band, Cambodian Space Project, KAMA is part boho bar, part art space. It spins tunes from an eclectic vinyl collection, plays movies nightly and regularly hosts creative events. Pop in for a beer, or the dish of the day, and check out what's happening while you're in town.

Oh NeilsBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; River Rd; h5pm-late; W)

The liveliest of the little bars that dot the riverfront in Kampot, Oh Neils has walls plastered with rock 'n' roll memorabilia and a who's who soundtrack of classic tunes from down the decades.

KAMPOT PEPPER

In the years before the Cambodian civil war took its toll, no self-respecting French restaurant in Paris would be without Kampot pepper on the table. Pepper plantations are once again a common sight in the Kampot region and come in a variety of colours, including white, black, green and red.

8Information

The free and often hilarious Kampot Survival Guide takes a tongue-in-cheek look at local expat life, and there’s also the free guide Coastal (www.coastal-cambodia.com).

Canadia BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Durian Roundabout; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)

Tourist Information CentreTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %033-655 5541; lonelyguide@gmail.com; River Rd; h7am-7pm)

Led by the knowledgeable Mr Pov, Kampot’s tourist office doles out free advice, sells tours and can arrange transport to area attractions such as caves, falls and Kompong Trach.

8Getting There & Away

Kampot is 105km from Sihanoukville and 148km from Phnom Penh.

Capitol Tours and Phnom Penh Sorya sell bus tickets from offices opposite the Total petrol station near the Four Nagas Roundabout. Both have daily trips to Phnom Penh (US$5 to US$6, 2½ hours) until lunchtime. Giant Ibis and Kampot Express run comfortable express vans to Phnom Penh (US$8 to US$9, two hours).

For Sihanoukville, ask your guesthouse to set you up with a minibus service (US$5).

A moto/remork to Kep should cost about US$6/12.

8Getting Around

Bicycles (US$2) and motorbikes (from US$5) can be rented from guesthouses in town.

Around Kampot

The limestone hills east towards Kep are honeycombed with fantastic caves, some of which can be explored with the help of local kids and a reliable torch (flashlight).

1Sights

Phnom ChhnorkCAVE

(ភ្នំឈ្ងោក admission US$1; h7am-6pm)

Phnom Chhnork is a short walk through a quilt of rice paddies from Wat Ang Sdok, where a monk collects the entry fee and a gaggle of friendly local kids offer their services as guides.

From the bottom, a 203-step staircase leads up the hillside and down into a cavern as graceful as a Gothic cathedral.

The view from up top, and the walk to and from the wat, is especially magical in the late afternoon.

Phnom SorsiaCAVE

(ភ្នំសសៀរ, Phnom Sia h7am-6pm)F

Phnom Sorsia is home to several natural caves. From the parking area, a stairway leads up the hillside to a gaudy modern temple. From there, steps lead left up to Rung Damrey Saa (White Elephant Cave). A slippery, sloping staircase where one false step will send you into the abyss leads down and then up and then out through a hole in the other side. Exit the cave and follow the right-hand path, which leads back to the temple.

Bokor Hill Station

This 1581-sq-km Bokor National Park (ឧទ្យានជាតិបូកគោ, Preah Monivong National Park admission motorbike/car 2000r/4000r) has impressive wildlife, lush primary forests and a refreshingly cool climate, but is most famous for its once-abandoned Bokor Hill Station (កស្ថានីយភ្នំបូកគោ ), established atop Phnom Bokor (1080m) in the 1920s.

Unfortunately it is now becoming more famous for the ugly casino that blights the summit, part of a massive development project that has sadly destroyed the atmosphere of bygone Bokor. Until recently the main attraction here was the old French hill station and its grand, four-storey hotel, the Bokor Palace, opened in 1925. The hill station was abandoned to the howling winds in the 1970s when Khmer Rouge forces infiltrated the area. The once-grand buildings became eerie, windowless shells.

To visit the park you can rent a motorbike or join an organised tour (US$10 to US$15 per person).

Kep

%036 / Pop 35,000

Kep was founded as a seaside retreat for the French elite in 1908 and was a favoured haunt of Cambodian high-rollers during the 1960s, today tourists are being drawn back to Kep (Krong Kep, also spelled Kaeb) thanks to its spectacular sunsets and splendid seafood. Some travellers find Kep a tad soulless because it lacks a centre. Others are oddly charmed by its torpid pace.

Most of Kep’s beaches are too shallow and rocky to make for good swimming. The best is centrally located Kep Beach, but it’s still somewhat pebbly and tends to fill up with locals on weekends. The best place for sunset viewing is the long wooden pier in front of Knai Bang Chat’s Sailing Club.

1Sights & Activities

Kep National ParkPARK

(ឧទ្យាន​ជាតិកែប GOOGLE MAP ; admission 4000r)

The interior of Kep peninsula is occupied by Kep National Park, where an 8km circuit, navigable by foot and mountain bike, winds through thick forest passing by wats and viewpoints. Quirky yellow signs point the way and show trailheads to off-shooting walking paths which lead into the park's interior. The 'Stairway to Heaven' trail is particularly worthwhile, leading up the hill to a pagoda, a nunnery and the Sunset Rock viewpoint.

The main park entrance ( GOOGLE MAP ) is behind Veranda Natural Resort.

Koh Tonsay (Rabbit Island)ISLAND

(កោះ​ទន្សាយ )

If you like the rustic beachcomber lifestyle, Koh Tonsay's 250m-long main beach is for you, but come now as the island is tagged for development. The beach is one of the nicest of any of the Kep-area islands but don’t expect sparkling white sand. This one has shorefront flotsam, chickens and wandering cows.

Restaurant-shacks and rudimentary bungalows (from US$7 per night) rim the sand.

Boats to Rabbit Island (30 minutes) leave from Rabbit Island pier ( GOOGLE MAP ) at 9am, returning to Kep at 4pm (US$10 return).

Wat Kiri SelaBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(វត្ត​គិរី​សិលា h7am-6pm)

This Buddhist temple sits at the foot of Phnom Kompong Trach, a dramatic karst formation riddled with more than 100 caverns and passageways. From the wat, an underground passage leads to a fishbowl-like formation, surrounded by vine-draped cliffs and open to the sky. Various stalactite-laden caves shelter reclining Buddhas and miniature Buddhist shrines.

The closest town is Kompong Trach. From here, take the dirt road opposite the Acleda Bank, on NH33 in the town centre, for 2km.

4Sleeping

oBotanica GuesthouseBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %097 8998614; www.kep-botanica.com; NH33A; r with fan US$19, with air-con US$29; aWs)

A little way from the action (if Kep can be said to have any action), Botanica offers exceptional value for money with attractive bungalows boasting contemporary bathrooms. There is a small swimming pool and guests can use free bicycles to hit the beach.

Tree Top BungalowsBUNGALOW$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %012 515191; www.keptreetop.com; bungalow with/without bathroom US$25/5, treehouse bungalow from US$10; iW)

Chilled out to the max, the bamboo ‘treehouse’ bungalows here are as quirky as it gets (each pair shares a bathroom). Back down on the ground are solid, roomy bungalows with private bathrooms, and Kep's cheapest rooms – shacks separated by flimsy partitions.

Kep Guest HouseHOSTEL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %097 3748080; www.kepguesthouse.com; NH33A; dm US$5-7, r US$9-17; aW)

This modest hostel is Kep's nicest backpacker pad with bright, airy and clean rooms, and a dorm with double beds. There's great sea views from the rooftop restaurant. The US$17 room has air-con.

5Eating

Eating fresh crab fried with Kampot pepper at the Crab Market – a row of wooden waterfront shacks next to a wet fish market – is a quintessential Kep experience. There are lots of great places to choose from. Kimly ( GOOGLE MAP ; %036-904077; Crab Market; mains US$2.50-8; h10am-10pm) has a good reputation with crab prepared 27 different ways. The crab shacks also serve prawns, squid, fish and terrestrial offerings.

Sailing ClubFUSION$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; mains US$7-12.50; h10am-10pm; W)

With a small beach, breezy wooden bar and a wooden jetty poking out into the sea, this is one of Cambodia’s top sundowner spots. The Asian fusion food is excellent and you can get your crab fix here too. Try the Kep Special Fish (served in a Kampot pepper and coconut sauce) for a local taste sensation.

8Getting There & Away

Kep is 25km from Kampot and 41km from the Prek Chak/Xa Xia border crossing to Vietnam.

Phnom Penh Sorya and Hua Lian buses link the town with Kampot (US$2, 45 minutes) and Phnom Penh (US$5, four hours). A private taxi to Phnom Penh (three hours) costs US$40 to US$45.

A moto/remork to Kampot costs about US$6/12. Guesthouses can arrange minibus/bus combos to Sihanoukville and Koh Kong.

Motorbike rental is US$5 to US$7 per day and can be organised through guesthouses.

GETTING TO VIETNAM: KEP TO HA TIEN

The Prek Chak/Xa Xia border crossing (open 6am to 5.30pm) has become a popular option for linking Kampot and Kep with Ha Tien and the popular Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc.

Getting to the border The easiest way to get to Prek Chak and on to Ha Tien, Vietnam, is on a bus or van from Sihanoukville (US$16, five hours), Kampot (US$8, 1½ hours) or Kep (US$5, one hour). Several companies ply the Sihanoukville–Kampot–Kep–Ha Tien route.

A more flexible alternative from Phnom Penh or Kampot is to take any bus to Kompong Trach, then a moto (about US$3) for 15km to the border. In Kep, tour agencies and guesthouses can arrange a direct remork (US$13, one hour) or taxi (US$20, 30 minutes). Rates are almost double from Kampot.

At the border Pick up motos on the Vietnamese side of the border to Ha Tien (7km). You’ll save money walking across no-man’s land and picking up a moto on the other side for about US$3.

Moving on Travellers bound for Phu Quoc should arrive in Ha Tien no later than 12.30pm to secure a ticket on the 1pm ferry (230,000d or about US$11, 1½ hours). Extreme early risers may be able to make it to Ha Tien in time to catch the 8am ferry. For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.

Eastern Cambodia

If it's a walk on the wild side that fires your imagination, then the northeast is calling. It’s home to forest elephants, freshwater dolphins and funky gibbons. Peppering the area are thundering waterfalls, crater lakes and meandering rivers. Trekking, biking, kayaking and ziplining are all beginning to take off. The rolling hills and lush forests provide a home to many ethnic minority groups. Do the maths: it all adds up to an amazing experience.

Kompong Cham

%042 / Pop 73,000

This quiet Mekong city, an important trading post during the French period, serves as the gateway to Cambodia’s northeast. Most of the action is on the riverfront.

1Sights & Activities

Koh PaenISLAND

(កោះប៉ែន )

For a supremely relaxing bicycle ride, it’s hard to beat Koh Paen, a rural island in the Mekong River, connected to the southern reaches of Kompong Cham town by an elaborate bamboo bridge (toll 500r to 1000r) in the dry season or a local ferry (with/without bicycle 1500/1000r) in the wet season. The bamboo bridge is an attraction in itself, built entirely by hand each year and looking from afar like it is made of matchsticks.

Wat Nokor BacheyBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(វត្តនគរបាជ័យ admission US$2)

The original fusion temple, Wat Nokor is a modern Theravada Buddhist pagoda squeezed into the walls of a 12th-century Mahayana Buddhist shrine of sandstone and laterite. It's a kitschy kind of place; many of the older building’s archways have been incorporated into the new building as shrines for worship. On weekdays there are only a few monks in the complex and it’s peaceful to wander among the alcoves and their hidden shrines.

4Sleeping & Eating

oMoon River GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %016 788973; moonrivermekong@gmail.com; Sihanouk St; r with fan US$7-11, with air-con US$13-19; aW)

One of the newer riverfront guesthouses, Moon River is a great all-rounder with smart, spacious rooms, including some triples. Downstairs is a popular restaurant-bar that serves hearty breakfasts and draws a crowd by night.

Mekong SunriseGUESTHOUSE$

( GOOGLE MAP ; %011 449720; bong_thol@yahoo.com; Sihanouk St; dm US$3, r with fan US$5-7, with air-con US$12; aW)

A backpacker crashpad over a popular riverfront bar-restaurant, Mekong Sunrise has spacious upper-floor rooms with access to a sprawling rooftop. Furnishings are sparse, but it’s cheap enough and there's a pool table.

oSmile RestaurantCAMBODIAN$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bdsa-cambodia.org; Sihanouk St; mains US$3-5; h6.30am-9pm; W)S

Run by the Buddhism and Society Development Association, this handsome nonprofit restaurant is a huge hit with the NGO crowd for its big breakfasts and authentic Khmer cuisine, such as char k'dau (stir-fry with lemongrass, hot basil and peanuts) and black-pepper squid. Western dishes are on the menu as well, and it sells BSDA-made kramas and trinkets.

Lazy Mekong DazeINTERNATIONAL$

( GOOGLE MAP ; Sihanouk St; mains US$3-5.50; h7.30am-last customer; W)

One of the go-to places to gather after dark thanks to a mellow atmosphere, a pool table and a big screen for sports and movies. The menu includes a range of Khmer, Thai and Western food, plus the best wood-fired pizzas in town, chilli con carne and tempting ice creams.

8Information

Lazy Mekong Daze hands out a decent map that highlights the major sights in and around Kompong Cham.

Canadia BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Preah Monivong Blvd; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat, ATM 24hr)

Free ATM withdrawals for some cards, plus free cash advances on credit cards.

8Getting There & Around

Phnom Penh is 120km southwest. If you are heading north to Kratie or beyond, secure transport via the sealed road to Chhlong rather than taking a huge detour east to Snuol on NH7.

APhnom Penh Sorya (Preah Monivong Blvd) is the most reliable bus company operating.

Share taxis (15,000r, 2½ hours) and overcrowded local minibuses (10,000r) also make the run to Phnom Penh, departing from the taxi park ( GOOGLE MAP ) near the New Market (Psar Thmei).

Morning share taxis and minibuses to Kratie (US$5, 1½ hours) depart when full from the Caltex station ( GOOGLE MAP ) at the main roundabout, and there are morning minibuses from the taxi park as well.

BUSES FROM KOMPONG CHAM

Destination	Fare	Duration (hr)	Frequency
Ban Lung	32,000r	7	10am
Kratie via Chhlong	20,000r	2	9.30am
Kratie via Snuol	21,000r	4	10.30am, 2pm
Pakse (Laos)	US$22	12	10am
Phnom Penh	20,000r	3	hourly to 3.45pm
Sen Monorom	28,000r	5	11.45am
Siem Reap	24,000r	5	7.30am, 9.30am, noon

Kratie

%072 / Pop 44,000

The most popular place in Cambodia to glimpse Southeast Asia's remaining freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins, Kratie (pronounced 'kra-cheh') is a lively riverside town with a rich legacy of French-era architecture and some of the best Mekong sunsets in Cambodia.

Lying just across the water from Kratie is the island of Koh Trong, an almighty sandbar in the middle of the river. Cross here by boat and enjoy a slice of rural island life. Catch the little ferry from the port or charter a local boat (around US$2) to get here. Bicycle rental is available on the island near the ferry landing for US$1, or do the loop around the island on a moto (US$2.50) steered by a female motodup (moto driver) – a rarity for Cambodia.

Kratie

2Activities, Courses & Tours

CRDToursA1

1Sorya Kayaking AdventuresA1

4Sleeping

2Le Tonlé Tourism Training CenterA1

3Silver Dolphin GuesthouseB4

4U-Hong II GuesthouseB3

5Eating

5Red Sun FallingA3

6Tokae RestaurantB3

TTours

CRDToursTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %099 834353; www.crdtours.org; St 3; h8am-noon & 2-5.30pm; W)S

Run by the Cambodian Rural Development Team, this company focuses on sustainable tours along the Mekong Discovery Trail. Homestays, volunteer opportunities and various excursions are available on the Mekong island of Koh Pdao, 20km north of Kampi. The typical price is US$38 to US$60 per day, including all meals and tours. Tours and homestays on Koh Preah (near Stung Treng) and Koh Trong are also possible. Mountain bike tours from Kratie to Koh Pdao are another option.

Sorya Kayaking AdventuresKAYAKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %090 241148; www.soryakayaking.com; Rue Preah Suramarit)

Sorya has a fleet of eight kayaks and runs half-day and multi-day trips (with homestay accommodation) on the Mekong north of Kratie, or on the Te River to the south. This is a great way to get close to the dolphins. Other highlights include a small flooded forest north of Kampi, Vietnamese floating villages, and a sunset trip around Koh Trong. There's a small cafe onsite and it sells handicrafts woven by disadvantaged widows.

DON'T MISS

DOLPHIN WATCHING AROUND KRATIE

The freshwater Irrawaddy dolphin (trey pisaut) is an endangered species throughout Asia, with shrinking numbers inhabiting stretches of the Mekong in Cambodia and Laos, and isolated pockets in Bangladesh and Myanmar. The dark blue to grey cetaceans grow to 2.75m long and are recognisable by their bulging foreheads and small dorsal fins. They can live in fresh or salt water, although they are seldom seen in the sea. For more on this rare creature, see www.worldwildlife.org/species/irrawaddy-dolphin.

Before the civil war, locals say, Cambodia was home to as many as 1000 dolphins. However, during the Pol Pot regime, many were hunted for their oils, and their numbers continue to plummet even as drastic protection measures have been put in place, including a ban on fishing and commercial motorised boat traffic on much of the Mekong between Kratie and Stung Treng. The dolphins continue to die off at an alarming rate, and experts now estimate that there are fewer than 85 Irrawaddy dolphins left in the Mekong between Kratie and the Lao border.

The best place to see them is at Kampi, about 15km north of Kratie, on the road to Sambor. A moto/remork should be around US$7/10 return depending on how long the driver has to wait. Motorboats shuttle visitors out to the middle of the river to view the dolphins at close quarters. It costs US$9 per person for one to two persons and US$7 per person for groups of three to four. Encourage the boat driver to use the engine as little as possible once near the dolphins, as the noise is sure to disturb them. It is also possible to see them near the Lao border in Stung Treng province.

4Sleeping

There are homestays available on the island of Koh Trong opposite Kratie town.

Silver Dolphin GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 999810; silver.dolphinbooking@yahoo.com; 48 Rue Preah Suramarit; dm US$4, r US$4-14; aiW)

This backpacker hostel is a great deal. The dorm is spacious, with a soaring ceiling, and even the cheapest doubles have a TV, bathroom and some furniture. There is a popular upstairs bar-restaurant with a riverfront balcony. Owner Pech speaks great English and French.

U-Hong II GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %085 885168; 119 St 10; r US$4-13; aiW)

A lively little shoes-off guesthouse between the market and the riverfront. There are eight rooms here, plus 11 more in a nearby annex, some with air-con. There is a buzzing bar-restaurant that boasts the most extensive cocktail list in town.

Le Tonlé Tourism Training CenterGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %072-210505; www.letonle.org; St 3; r US$10-20; aW)S

Following on from the success of its long-running Le Tonlé project in Stung Treng, CRDT has opened a slightly smarter operation in Kratie. The expanded property has nine rustic but attractive rooms in a beautiful wooden house and delicious food prepared by at-risk program trainees. Some rooms have bathrooms, some rooms share.

5Eating

Red Sun FallingINTERNATIONAL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Preah Suramarit; mains US$2-4; h7am-9pm; W)

One of the liveliest spots in town, the long-running Red Sun has a relaxed cafe ambience, a supreme riverfront location, used books for sale and a good selection of Asian and Western meals.

Tokae RestaurantCAMBODIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 10; mains US$2-4; h6am-11pm; W)

Look out for Cambodia's largest tokae (gecko) on the wall and you've found this excellent little eatery. The menu offers a good mix of cheap Cambodian food like curries and amoc (a baked fish dish), plus equally affordable Western breakfasts and comfort food.

8Information

All of the recommended guesthouses are pretty switched on to travellers’ needs. Silver Dolphin Guesthouse has public internet access (per hour 3000r).

Canadia BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Rue Preah Suramarit; h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr)

ATM offering cash withdrawals, plus currency exchange.

MEKONG DISCOVERY TRAIL

Mekong Discovery TrailTOURS

(www.mekongdiscoverytrail.com)

It’s well worth spending a couple of days exploring the various bike rides and activities on offer along the Mekong Discovery Trail, an initiative to open up stretches of the Mekong River around Stung Treng and Kratie to community-based tourism. Once managed by the government with foreign development assistance, the project is now being kept alive by private tour companies, such as Xplore-Asia ( GOOGLE MAP ; %011 433836, 074-973456; www.xplore-cambodia.com) in Stung Treng and CRDTours in Kratie.

8Getting There & Away

Kratie is 348km northeast of Phnom Penh (250km via Chhlong) and 141km south of Stung Treng.

Phnom Penh Sorya operates three buses per day to Phnom Penh (US$8, five to seven hours). Sorya buses to Siem Reap involve a change in Suong.

Going the other way, Sorya’s bus from Phnom Penh to Pakse, Laos (US$20, eight hours), hits Kratie around 11.30am. Sorya also has a 1pm bus to Ban Lung (US$8, five hours), and a 3pm bus to Stung Treng (US$5, three hours).

Express vans, which pick you up from your guesthouse, are a faster way to Phnom Penh (US$7, four hours, about six per day). There's also an express van to Siem Reap (US$13, six hours, 7.30am).

For Sen Monorom, take a local minibus from the taxi park (30,000r, four hours, two or three early morning departures). Local minibuses also serve Ban Lung, with most departures between 11am and 2pm.

Most guesthouses can arrange bicycle (from US$1) and motorbike hire (from US$5). An English-speaking motodup will set you back US$10 to US$15 per day, a remork about US$25.

GETTING TO VIETNAM: EASTERN BORDERS

KOMPONG CHAM TO TAY NINH

The Trapeang Plong/Xa Mat crossing (open 7am to 5pm) is convenient for those using private transport to travel between northeast Cambodia or Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City.

Getting to the border From Kompong Cham take anything heading east on NH7 toward Snuol, and get off at the roundabout in Krek (Kraek) on NH7. From there, it’s 13km south by moto (US$3) along NH72 to snoozy Trapeang Plong.

At the border This border is a breeze; just have your Vietnamese visa ready.

Moving on On the Vietnamese side, motorbikes and taxis go to Tay Ninh, 45km to the south.

SNUOL TO BINH LONG

The Trapeang Sre/Loc Ninh crossing (open 7am to 5pm) is useful for those trying to get straight to Vietnam from Kratie or points north.

Getting to the border First get to Snuol by bus, share taxi or minibus from Sen Monorom, Kratie or Kompong Cham. In Snuol catch a moto (US$5) for the 18km trip southeastward along smooth NH74.

At the border Some nationalities need a prearranged visa to enter Vietnam.

Moving on On the Vietnamese side, the nearest town is Binh Long, 40km to the south. Motorbikes wait at the border.

BAN LUNG TO PLEIKU

The O Yadaw/Le Thanh crossing (open 7am to 5pm) is 70km east of Ban Lung along smooth NH19.

Getting to the border From Ban Lung, guesthouses advertise a 6.30am van to Pleiku (US$12, 3½ hours) involving a change of vehicle at the border. This picks you up at your guesthouse.

At the border Formalities are straightforward and lines nonexistent; just make sure you have a Vietnamese visa if you need one.

Moving on On the Vietnamese side of the frontier, the road is nicely paved. Motos await to take you to Duc Co (20km), where there are buses to Pleiku, Quy Nhon and Hoi An. For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.