Cambodia

%855 / Pop 16 million

Why Go?

Ascend to the realm of the gods at Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of spirituality, symbolism and symmetry. Descend into the darkness of Tuol Sleng to witness the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. This is Cambodia, a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, a captivating destination that casts a spell on all those who visit.

Fringed by beautiful beaches and tropical islands, sustained by the mother waters of the Mekong River and cloaked in some of the region’s few remaining emerald wildernesses, Cambodia is an adventure as much as a holiday. This is the warm heart of Southeast Asia, with everything the region has to offer packed into one bite-sized chunk.

Despite the headline attractions, Cambodia’s greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back, but thanks to an unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism they have prevailed with their smiles and spirits largely intact.

When to Go

ANov–Feb The best all-round time to visit with relatively cool climes.

AMar–Jun Khmer New Year falls in mid-April and the mercury regularly hits 40°C.

AJul–Oct Green season: rice paddies shimmer, clouds bring some relief and prices plummet.

Best Temples

A Angkor Wat

A Bayon

A Ta Prohm

A Banteay Srei

A Prasat Preah Vihear

Best Places for Cultural Connections

ATemples of Angkor

AKampot Province

AMondulkiri Province

ABattambang

A National Museum of Cambodia

Don’t Miss

Cambodia’s nightlife is the stuff of legend. While other cities in the region tuck themselves into bed for the night, thanks to curfews and closing times, Phnom Penh and Siem Reap rumble on from dusk till dawn. Phnom Penh has a vibrant bar and club culture. The riverfront area is a good hunting ground for bars, but as the night wears on it is time to try other haunts such as St 51, home to Pontoon and the Heart of Darkness.

Up in sublime Siem Reap, one street boasts so many bars it's earned itself the moniker ‘Pub St’. There is no easier place for a crawl in the region and draught beer is almost a giveaway at US$0.50 a glass. Try alternative backpacker bars Angkor What? or Charlie's, or something a little more refined such as Laundry Bar or Asana.

ITINERARIES

ONE WEEK

Soak up the sights, sounds and smells of Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s dynamic and fast-changing capital. Travel by road to Siem Reap, gateway to the majestic temples of Angkor, passing by the pre-Angkorian temples of Sambor Prei Kuk or taking a longer detour via the charming colonial-era city of Battambang. Explore Angkor in depth, as nowhere does temples quite like Cambodia.

TWO WEEKS

After exploring Phnom Penh and Siem Reap for a week, hit the provinces. Those heading to Thailand should head south to Cambodia’s up-and-coming coastline. Soak up the languid charms of Kampot and Kep, then head to Sihanoukville, where dreamy islands lurk offshore. Try some adrenaline adventures around Koh Kong before exiting the country. Laos- or Vietnam-bound travellers can easily spend a week in the wild east, trekking in Ratanakiri or Mondulkiri and tracking rare Irrawaddy dolphins on the Mekong River around Kratie or Stung Treng.

Essential Adventures

AChi Phat Mountain biking, trekking, kayaking, birdwatching – it's all here at this pioneering ecotourism project.

AMekong Discovery Trail Kayak with rare Irrawaddy dolphins then continue down the Mekong amid enchanting flooded forests.

AVeun Sai-Siem Pang Conservation Area Trek deep into the jungle to observe rare gibbons in their element in Ratanakiri.

AKoh Kong Island Beachcomb the deserted sands and shores of this tropical island near the city of the same name.

AMondulkiri Province Walk with elephants, quad-bike to jungle viewpoints, and zipline over the Bou Sraa Waterfall in this adventure centre.

At a Glance

ACurrency Riel (r)

ALanguage Khmer

AMoney ATMs common in major cities

AVisas Available on arrival for most nationalities

AMobile phones Prepaid SIM cards are cheap, but you need a passport to register

Fast Facts

AArea 181,035 sq km

ACapital Phnom Penh

AEmergency Police 117

Exchange Rates

Australia	A$1	3580r
Euro	€1	5440r
Thailand	10B	1220r
UK	£1	6595r
USA	US$1	3960r
Vietnam	10,000d	1880r

Daily Costs

ABudget guesthouse room US$4–10

ALocal restaurant meal US$1.50–5

ADraught beer in backpacker bar US$0.50–1.50

AMoto ride US$0.50–1

Entering the Country

Fly into Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. Land borders with Laos, Thailand and Vietnam.

Cambodia Highlights

1 Discovering the eighth wonder of the world, the Temples of Angkor.

2 Enjoying the ‘Pearl of Asia’, Phnom Penh, with its impressive museums, a sublime riverside setting and happening nightlife.

3 Island-hopping around the Southern Islands, Cambodia's next big thing.

4 Delving into the lush Battambang countryside, climbing hilltop temples, exploring caves and riding the 'Bamboo Train'.

5 Exploring wild Mondulkiri, a land of rolling hills, thundering waterfalls, indigenous minorities and adrenaline activities.

6 Slipping into the soporific pace of riverside Kampot, with French-era architecture, cave temples and pepper plantations.

7 Making a pilgrimage to the awe-inspiring mountain temple of Prasat Preah Vihear.

8 Exploring the bucolic Mekong islands and dolphin pools around Kratie by bicycle and boat.

Phnom Penh

%023 / Pop 2 million

Phnom Penh: the name can’t help but conjure up an image of the exotic. The glimmering spires of the Royal Palace, the fluttering saffron of the monks’ robes and the luscious location on the banks of the mighty Mekong – this is the Asia many dreamed of from afar.

Once the ‘Pearl of Asia’, Phnom Penh’s shine was tarnished by war and revolution. But that’s history and the city has risen from the ashes to take its place among the hip capitals of Asia, with an alluring cafe culture, bustling bars and a world-class food scene. Whatever your flavour, no matter your taste, it’s all here in Phnom Penh.

Phnom Penh

5Eating

1Café YejjC4

2Super DuperC4

3Entertainment

3Sovanna Phum Arts AssociationC4

7Shopping

RajanaC4

4RajanaC4

5Russian MarketC4

1Sights

Most sights are fairly central and lie within walking distance or a short remork-moto (tuk tuk) ride from the riverfront Sisowath Quay.

oNational Museum of CambodiaMUSEUM

(សារមន្ទីរជាតិ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cambodiamuseum.info; cnr St 13 & St 178; admission US$5; h8am-5pm)

Located just north of the Royal Palace, the National Museum of Cambodia is housed in a graceful terracotta structure of traditional design (built from 1917 to 1920), with an inviting courtyard garden. The museum is home to the world’s finest collection of Khmer sculpture – a millennium’s worth and more of masterful Khmer design. The museum comprises four pavilions, facing a pretty garden. Most visitors start left and continue in a clockwise, chronological direction.

Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocidal CrimesMUSEUM

(សារមន្ទីរប្រល័យពូជសាសន៍ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr St 113 & St 350; admission US$2, guide US$6; h7am-5.30pm)

In 1975, Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot’s security forces and turned into a prison known as Security Prison 21 (S-21); it soon became the largest centre of detention and torture in the country. Between 1975 and 1978 more than 17,000 people held at S-21 were taken to the killing fields of Choeung Ek. S-21 has been turned into the Tuol Sleng Museum, which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge.

Killing Fields of Choeung EkMUSEUM

(វាលពិឃាតជើងឯក admission incl audio tour US$6; h7.30am-5.30pm)

Between 1975 and 1978 about 17,000 men, women, children and infants who had been detained and tortured at S-21 were transported to the extermination camp of Choeung Ek. They were often bludgeoned to death to avoid wasting precious bullets.

Admission to the Killing Fields includes an excellent audio tour, available in several languages. The site is well signposted in English about 7.5km south of the city limits. Figure on about US$10 for a remork (drivers may ask for more).

Wat PhnomBUDDHIST TEMPLE

(វត្តភ្នំ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Norodom Blvd at St 94; temple admission US$1, museum admission US$2; h7am-6.30pm, museum 7am-6pm)

Set on top of a 27m-high tree-covered knoll, Wat Phnom is on the only ‘hill’ in town. According to legend, the first pagoda on this site was erected in 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposited here by the waters of the Mekong River and discovered by Penh. The main entrance to Wat Phnom is via the grand eastern staircase, which is guarded by lions and naga (mythical serpent) balustrades.

Independence MonumentMONUMENT

(វិមានឯករាជ្យ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Norodom & Sihanouk Blvds)

Modelled on the central tower of Angkor Wat, Independence Monument was built in 1958 to commemorate the country’s independence from France in 1953. It also serves as a memorial to Cambodia’s war dead. Wreaths are laid here on national holidays. In the park just east of here is an impressive statue ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sihanouk Blvd) of the legendary former king/prime minister/statesman King Father Norodom Sihanouk, who died a national hero in 2012.

Central North Phnom Penh

1Top Sights

1National Museum of CambodiaE5

2Royal PalaceF5

1Sights

3Wat PhnomC2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

4Cyclo CentreC5

DaughtersE5

5Nail BarE4

6Vicious CycleE3

4Sleeping

7Blue LimeE5

8Eighty8 BackpackersB1

9Sundance Inn & SaloonE4

10Velkommen BackpackersE3

11Velkommen GuesthouseE3

5Eating

12Anjali/Karma CafeF4

13Blue PumpkinE3

14BostonE5

15FriendsE5

16Happy Herb PizzaF4

17RomdengC5

18Sam Doo RestaurantB4

19Sorya Food CourtC4

20Sugar 'n Spice CafeE5

21Thai HuotB3

6Drinking & Nightlife

22Blue ChiliE5

23Dusk Till DawnC5

24FCCF5

25Heart of DarknessD5

26PontoonC5

3Entertainment

27Plae PakaaE5

7Shopping

DaughtersE5

28D's BooksF5

29Mekong BlueE3

30Night MarketE2

31Psar ThmeiC4

32Women for WomenF4

2Activities

Don't miss the quirky and colourful aerobics sessions that take place in parks around the city at dawn and again at dusk. The riverfront opposite Blue Pumpkin and Olympic Stadium are two good places to jump in and join the fun.

Most boutique hotels with pools will let you swim for about US$5, sometimes free with the purchase of food. The great pool at the Himawari Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-214555; 313 Sisowath Quay; admission weekday/weekend US$7/8) is another option.

Boat Cruises

Sunset boat trips on the Tonlé Sap and Mekong Rivers are highly recommended. A slew of boats is available for hire on the riverfront about 500m north of the tourist boat dock. Arrange one on the spot for around US$20 an hour, depending on negotiations and numbers. Bring your own drinks.

Public river cruises are another option. They leave every 30 minutes from 5pm to 7.30pm from the tourist boat dock ( GOOGLE MAP ; 93 Sisowath Quay) and last about 45 minutes (US$5 per head).

Cooking Classes

Cambodia Cooking ClassCOOKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 524801; booking office 67 St 240; half/full day US$15/23)

Learn the art of Khmer cuisine through Frizz Restaurant. Classes are held near the Russian embassy. Reserve ahead.

Cycling

Vicious CycleCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 430622; www.grasshopperadventures.com; 23 St 144; road/mountain bike per day US$4/8)

Plenty of excellent mountain and other bikes available here. Kiddie seats can be attached to your mountain bike for US$3. Vicious represents well-respected Grasshopper Adventures in Phnom Penh.

Massage

DaughtersSPA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %077 657678; www.daughtersofcambodia.org; 65 St 178; 1hr foot spa US$10; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Hand and foot massages are administered by participants in this NGO’s vocational training program for at-risk women. Shorter (15- to 30-minute) treatments also available.

Nail BarMASSAGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.mithsamlanh.org; Friends n’ Stuff store, 215 St 13; 30/60min massages US$4/7; h11am-9pm)

Cheap manicures, pedicures, foot massages, hand massages and nail painting, all to help Mith Samlanh train street children in a new vocation.

DON'T MISS

ROYAL PALACE

With its classic Khmer roofs and ornate gilding, the Royal Palace (ព្រះបរមរាជវាំង MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sothearos Blvd; admission incl camera 25,000r, guide per hr US$10; h7.30-11am & 2-5pm) dominates the diminutive skyline of Phnom Penh. It's a striking structure near the riverfront, bearing a remarkable likeness to its counterpart in Bangkok.

Being the official residence ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ) of King Sihamoni, parts of the massive palace compound are closed to the public. Visitors are allowed to visit only the throne hall and a clutch of buildings surrounding it. Adjacent to the palace, the Silver Pagoda complex is also open to the public.

From the palace compound you enter the Silver Pagoda complex through its north gate. The Silver Pagoda was so named in honour of the floor, which is covered with more than 5000 silver tiles weighing 1kg each, adding up to five tonnes of gleaming silver. You can sneak a peek at some near the entrance – most are covered for their protection. It is also known as Wat Preah Keo (Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha)

TTours

Cyclo CentreTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %097 700 9762; www.cyclo.org.kh; 95 St 158; per hour/day from US$3/12)

Dedicated to supporting cyclo (bicycle rickshaw) drivers in Phnom Penh, these tours are a great way to see the sights. Themed trips such as pub crawls or cultural tours are also available.

Central South Phnom Penh

1Sights

1Independence MonumentE2

2King's ResidenceE1

3Norodom Sihanouk StatueF2

4Tuol Sleng Museum of Genocidal CrimesC4

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Cambodia Cooking ClassE1

6Cambodian Living ArtsF3

7Himawari HotelG1

4Sleeping

8Blue Dog GuesthouseE3

9Mad MonkeyE3

Narin GuesthouseC2

10Number 9 GuesthouseF2

11One Up Banana HotelE3

12Tat GuesthouseC2

13Tattoo GuesthouseB2

14Top Banana GuesthouseE3

15White RabbitD3

5Eating

16Aeon Mall Food CourtF4

17ARTilleryF1

18Boat Noodle RestaurantF3

19Dosa CornerE3

20Red CowE3

21SovannaF3

22Thai HuotD4

23The VegetarianF2

24Yi SangG1

6Drinking & Nightlife

25Red BarE3

26ScoreD3

3Entertainment

27FlicksC4

28Meta HouseF3

7Shopping

29D's BooksE2

30Monument BooksE2

31TabithaE4

4Sleeping

Phnom Penh's traditional backpacker area around Boeng Kak ('The Lake') all but died when the lake was filled in with sand in 2011. Several mini Khao San Rd backpacker colonies have emerged in its wake, with additional options scattered around the centre. St 172 between St 19 and St 13 has emerged as the most popular area for budget accommodation. For walk-in guests, this is a great area to target. South of St 172 and closer to the river, St 258 has a clutch of budget guesthouses.

In the O Russei Market area west of busy Monivong Blvd there is a mix of discount high-rise hotels and backpacker-oriented guesthouses. The trendy Boeng Keng Kang (BKK) district south of Independence Monument is the flashpacker zone.

oEighty8 BackpackersHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-500 2440; www.88backpackers.com; 98 St 88; dm US$5.25-7.75, r US$18-26; aiWs)

A hostel with a swimming pool means party time – this place hosts a big one on the first Friday of every month. The pool and the extensive villa are home to a variety of dorms and private rooms. The courtyard has a central bar, with a pool table and plenty of spots to lounge around the pool.

The dorms come in air-con and fan varieties, plus a female dorm.

oMad MonkeyHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-987091; www.phnompenhhostels.com; 26 St 302; dm US$4-7, r from US$14-30; aiW)

This colourful and vibrant hostel is justifiably popular. The spacious dorms have air-con and sleep six to 20; the smaller ones have double-width bunk beds that can sleep two. The private rooms are swish for the price but lack TVs and, often, windows. The rooftop bar above quiet St 302 serves free beer on Mondays from 6pm to 8pm.

Top Banana GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 885572; www.topbanana.biz; 9 St 278; dm US$5, r US$8-18; aiW)

Fifteen years on, a facelift has greatly improved the rooms and there are some dorms available, including a four-bed female dorm. The main draw is the strategic location overlooking Wat Langka and Golden St, plus the open-air chill-out area. Book way ahead. One Up Banana Hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-211344; www.1uphotelcambodia.com; Z9-132 St 51; s/d from US$33/39; aiW) is its nearby flashpacker upgrade.

Narin GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %099 881133; www.naringuesthouse.com; 50 St 125; r with fan/air-con US$12/17; aiW)

One of the stalwarts of the Phnom Penh guesthouse scene (we first stayed here back in 1995). Rooms are smart, bathrooms smarter still and the price is right. There is a super-relaxed, open-air restaurant-terrace where you can take some time out.

Blue Dog GuesthouseHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 658075; bluedogguesthouse@gmail.com; 13 St 51; dm US$5-6, r US$9-22; iW)

The location and price are right, plus there’s a cosy common area and a popular bar downstairs, so you won't end up spending too much time in the clean but basic rooms. Mains at the bar-restaurant include a free drink.

White RabbitHOSTEL$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-223170; www.whiterabbitguesthouse.com; 40A St 294; dm with fan/air-con from US$3/5, r US$6-15; aW)

This convivial hostel is a hidden gem, with an attractive ground-level bar and hangout area with a thousand movies or Sony PS3 games on a big screen. The private rooms are good value, but most opt for the comfortable dorms with clean bathrooms and wide bunk beds.

Velkommen BackpackersGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %077 757701; www.velkommenbackpackers.com; 17 St 144; dm US$5, r US$8-30; aW)

The popular Velkommen has been looking after travellers for the better part of a decade now. Dorms are air-conditioned and rooms come in a pick 'n' mix of shapes and sizes. There is a bar-restaurant downstairs and lots of useful travel info. Directly across the road is the Velkommen Guesthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %077 757701; www.velkommenguesthouse.com; 18 St 144; r US$18-45; aW), with smarter rooms.

Tat GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 921211; tatcambodia@yahoo.com; 52 St 125; s without bathroom US$4, r US$7-15; aiW)

A super-friendly spot with a breezy rooftop hangout that's perfect for chilling. The rooms aren't going to wow you but they are functional. For US$12 you get air-con. They also own nearby Tattoo Guesthouse ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %011 801000; 62A St 125; r US$5-10; aW), which has a great name and smarter rooms.

Sundance Inn & SaloonGUESTHOUSE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016 802090; www.sundancecambodia.com; 61 St 172; r US$23-38; aiWs)

Sundance is a step above the guesthouse pack on St 172 with oversize beds, designer bathrooms, kitchenettes and computers that hook up to flat-screens in every room. With open-mic Mondays, frequent live music, all-day US$1 cocktails and a pool out back, it is quite the party pad. Free airport pick-up with 24hrs notice.

Number 9 GuesthouseFLASHPACKER$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-984999; www.number9hotel.com; 7C St 258; r from US$15; aWs)

The first of Phnom Penh's old-school backpacker pads to undergo a transformation into a flashpacker hotel, it is still going strong thanks to great rates, a rooftop pool and a lively bar-restaurant. Worth a splash for backpackers who have been exploring rural Cambodia.

SPLURGE

Blue Lime ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-222260; www.bluelime.asia; 42 St 19z; r incl breakfast US$50-85; aiWs) offers smart, minimalist rooms and a leafy pool area that invites relaxation. The pricier rooms have private plunge pools, four-poster beds and concrete love seats. The cheaper rooms upstairs in the main building are similarly appealing. No children.

5Eating

For foodies, Phnom Penh is a real delight, boasting a superb selection of restaurants that showcase the best in Khmer cooking, as well as the greatest hits from all over the globe.

North Central

Anjali/Karma CafeCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 273 Sisowath Quay; mains US$3-6; h7am-late)

Twin-sister restaurants practically under one roof. The prices are more than reasonable for this part of town. Anjali has some Indian offerings, but otherwise, they share an identical menu – pub grub and some Asian highlights.

Sorya Food CourtASIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 11 St 63; 5000-10,000r; h9am-9pm)

The top-floor food court is a more sanitised way to experience a variety of local fare, with stalls serving a wide range of affordable Cambodian, Chinese, Vietnamese, Malaysian and Korean dishes. It works on a coupon system.

oBostonCAMBODIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 54 St 172; mains US$3-10; h7.30am-11pm; W)

This is a sophisticated backpacker cafe, popular with expats and serving a range of Cambodian and international dishes. With enjoyable music, a wine list and some care given to presentation, it's a step above most dining options on the busy St 172 strip. Try the signature beef Wellington.

Happy Herb PizzaPIZZA$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 921915; 345 Sisowath Quay; medium pizzas US$6-8.50; h8am-11pm; W)

No, happy doesn’t mean it comes with free toppings, it means pizza à la ganja. The non-marijuana pizzas are also pretty good, but don’t involve the free trip. It's a good place to sip a cheap beer and watch the riverfront action unfold.

Sam Doo RestaurantCHINESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 56-58 Kampuchea Krom Blvd; mains US$2.50-15; h7am-2am)

Many Chinese Khmers swear that this upstairs eatery near Central Market has the best Middle Kingdom food in town. Choose from their signature Sam Doo fried rice, trey chamhoy (steamed fish with soy sauce and ginger), fresh seafood, hot pots and dim sum.

Self-catering

Thai HuotSUPERMARKET$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 103 Monivong Blvd; h7.30am-8.30pm)

This is the place for French travellers who are missing home, as it stocks many French products, including Bonne Maman jam and the city's best cheese selection. Additional location in BKK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr St 63 & St 352; h7.30am-8.30pm).

DINING FOR A CAUSE

These fantastic eateries act as training centres for young staff and help fund worthy causes in the capital.

oRomdengCAMBODIAN$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %092 219565; 74 St 174; mains US$5-8; h11am-9pm; W)S

Set in a gorgeous colonial villa with a small pool, Romdeng specialises in Cambodian country fare, including a famous baked-fish amoc, two-toned pomelo salad and tiger-prawn curry. Sample deep-fried tarantulas or stir-fried tree ants with beef and holy basil if you dare. Part of the Friends’ extended family, it is staffed by former street youth and their teachers.

FriendsFUSION$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 802072; www.friends-restaurant.org; 215 St 13; tapas US$4-7, mains from US$6-10; h11am-10.30pm; W)S

One of Phnom Penh’s best-loved restaurants, this place is a must, with tasty tapas bites, heavenly smoothies and creative cocktails. It offers former street children a head start in the hospitality industry.

Sugar ‘n Spice CafeCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.daughtersofcambodia.org; 65 St 178; sandwiches US$3.50-7; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; W)S

This fantastic cafe on the top floor of the Daughters visitors centre features soups, smoothies, original coffee drinks, cupcakes and fusion-y mains served by former victims of trafficking, who are being trained by Daughters to reintegrate into society.

South Central

oBoat Noodle RestaurantTHAI$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012 774287; 57 Sothearos Blvd; mains US$3-7; h7am-9pm; W)

Relocated to Sothearos Blvd, this long-running Thai-Khmer restaurant has some of the best-value regional dishes in town. Choose from the contemporary but traditionally decorated space at the front or a traditional wooden house behind. Delicious noodle soups and lots of local specialities.

Aeon Mall Food CourtASIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 132 Sothearos Blvd; US$1-6; h9am-10pm; W)

It may be surprising to venture into the country's swankiest mall to find cheap eats, but there are two food courts here covering the best of Asia and beyond. Downstairs is the more local option with noodle soups, fried rice and fresh sushi. Upstairs on Level 2 is the World Dining Food Court, with fancier furnishings and live music.

Dosa CornerINDIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5E St 51; mains US$1.50-5; h8.30am-2pm & 5-10pm)

Fans of Indian dosas will be pleased to discover this place does just what it says on the label – namely, a generous variety of savoury pancakes from the south. Vegetarian thalis (set meals) are US$4.

The VegetarianCAMBODIAN, VEGETARIAN$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 158 St 19; mains US$1.75-2.50; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; v)

This is one of the best-value spots in Phnom Penh. All dishes are US$2.50 or under – and it doesn’t skimp on portions either. Noodles and fried rice are the specialities. The leafy setting in a quiet nook off central Sihanouk Blvd is yet another plus.

oYi SangCHINESE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sisowath Quay; US$6-20; h6am-11pm; W)

The riverfront location is one of the only places in the city where you can dine right on the riverside, perfect for a relaxing sunset cocktail. The menu here includes a mix of well-presented Cambodian street flavours like nam ben choc (rice noodles with curry), plus plenty of dim sum and some international flavours.

ARTilleryCAFE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 240½; mains US$4-6; h7.30am-9pm Tue-Sun, to 5pm Mon; Wv)

Healthy salads, sandwiches, shakes and snacks like hummus and felafel are served in this creative space on an artsy alley off St 240. The menu is mostly vegetarian, and pizza is among the offerings on its small raw-food menu. The daily specials are worth a sample.

LOCAL FLAVOURS

KHMER BARBECUES

After dark, Khmer eateries scattered across town illuminate their Cambodia Beer signs, hailing locals in for grilled strips of meat or seafood and generous jugs of draught beer. Khmer barbecues are literally all over the place, so it won’t be hard to find one. Some recommended local eateries:

SovannaBARBECUE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2C St 21; mains US$2-8; h6-11am & 3-11pm)

Always jumping with locals and a smattering of expats who have made this their barbecue of choice thanks to the huge menu. It’s as good a place as any to sample the national breakfast, bei sait chrouk (pork and rice).

Red CowBARBECUE$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 126 Norodom Blvd; mains US$2.50-7; h4-11pm)

Grills up everything imaginable – eel, eggplant, frog, pig intestine, quail – along with curries and other traditional Khmer dishes.

MARKETS

Phnom Penh’s many markets all have large central eating areas where stalls serve up local faves like noodle soup and fried noodles during daylight hours. Most dishes cost a reasonable 4000r to 8000r. The best market for eating is Russian Market, with an interior food zone that’s easy to find and with a nice variety of Cambodian specialities. Psar Thmei is another great option with a large food court.

Russian Market Area

Café YejjCAFE$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafeyejj.com; 170 St 450; mains US$3.50-6; h8am-9pm; Wv)S

An air-con escape from Russian Market (walk upstairs), this bistro-style cafe uses organic ingredients to prepare pastas, salads and wraps, as well as a few more ambitious dishes like Moroccan lamb stew and chili con carne. Promotes fair trade and responsible employment.

Super DuperSUPERMARKET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.super-duper.biz; 21 St 488; h24hrs)

Phnom Penh's only 24hr supermarket, this could be very handy if the midnight munchies strike. It has one of the best product ranges in town, as the owners bring in their own containers from the US and Australia.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Phnom Penh has some great bars and clubs and it’s definitely worth planning at least one big night on the town. Many venues are clustered around the intersection of St 51 and St 172, where seemingly everybody ends up late at night. ‘Golden St’ (St 278) is popular and the riverfront also has its share of bars. Another up-and-coming area is St 308 and the adjacent Bassac Lane bar strip. Two-for-one happy hours are a big thing in Phnom Penh, so it pays to get started early.

For the low-down on club nights, check out Phnom Penh Underground (www.phnom-penh-underground.com), an online guide to the club scene.

oFCCBAR

(Foreign Correspondents’ Club; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 363 Sisowath Quay; h6am-midnight; W)

A Phnom Penh institution, the ‘F’ is housed in a colonial gem with great views and cool breezes. One of those must-see places in Cambodia, almost everyone swings by for a drink – happy hours are 5pm to 7pm and 10pm to midnight. If the main bar is too crowded, head up to the rooftop, which often sees live music at weekends.

oDusk Till DawnBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 46 St 172)

Also known as Reggae Bar because of the clientele and the music, the rooftop setting makes it a great spot for a sundowner, but the party lasts well into the night. The bar is split over two levels, so continue upstairs if the first level is quiet. Ride the lift to the top floor in the tall building opposite Pontoon Club.

ScoreBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-221357; www.scorekh.com; 5 St 282; h8am-late; W)

With its cinema-sized screen and television banks on every wall, this cavernous bar is the best place to watch a big game. It's not just the usual footy and rugby – almost all sports are catered for here. Several pool tables tempt those who would rather play than watch.

Red BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr St 308 & St 29; h5pm-1am; W)

A friendly little local bar in the popular 308 St. The drinks here are so cheap that drinkers find themselves lingering long into the night…or maybe that's just us?

Blue ChiliGAY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 36 St 178; h6pm-late; W)

The owner of this long-running, gay-friendly bar stages his own drag show every Friday and Saturday at 10.30pm.

Heart of DarknessCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.heartofdarknessclub.com.kh; 26 St 51; h8pm-late)

This Phnom Penh institution with an alluring Angkor theme has evolved more into a nightclub than a bar over the years. It goes off every night of the week, attracting all – and we mean all – sorts. Everybody should stop in at least once just to bask in the aura and atmosphere of the place.

PontoonCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.pontoonclub.com; 80 St 172; admission weekends US$3-5, weekdays free; h9.30pm-late)

After floating around from pier to pier for a few years (hence the name), the city’s premier nightclub has finally found a permanent home on terra firma. It draws top local DJs and occasional big foreign acts. Thursday is gay-friendly night, with a 1am lady-boy show. Adjacent Pontoon Pulse is more of a lounge-club, with electronica and ambient music.

HANGIN' AT THE HOSTEL BARS

There are some great hostel bars in Phnom Penh, so keep these in mind if you want to meet other travellers on a big night out. Top Banana has one of the liveliest rooftop bars. Check out the streetside bar of Blue Dog or the rooftop bar at Mad Monkey, in the same part of town. Eighty8 Backpackers has a 'first Friday of the month' party that sees the expat and backpacker worlds collide. Sundance Inn has two lively bars at its two locations on St 172 and the riverfront (79 Sisowath Quay).

3Entertainment

For news on what’s happening in town, AsiaLife is a free monthly with entertainment features and some listings. Online, try www.phnompenhweek.com or www.lengpleng.com.

oPlae PakaaPERFORMING ARTS

(Fruitful; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-986032; www.cambodianlivingarts.org; National Museum, St 178; adult/child US$15/6; h7pm Mon-Sat Oct-Mar, Fri & Sat May-Sep, closed Apr)

Plae Pakaa is a series of must-see performances put on by Cambodian Living Arts (CLA; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %017 998570; www.cambodianlivingarts.org; 128 Sothearos Blvd). There are three rotating shows, each lasting about an hour. Children of Bassac showcases traditional dance styles. Passage of Life depicts the various celebrations and rituals that Khmers go through in their lifetimes (weddings, funerals, etc). Mak Therng is a traditional yike opera.

oMeta HouseCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.meta-house.com; 37 Sothearos Blvd; h4pm-midnight Tue-Sun; W)

This German-run cinema screens art-house films, documentaries and shorts from Cambodia and around the world most evenings at 4pm (admission free) and 7pm (admission varies). Films are sometimes followed by Q&As with those involved. Order German sausages, pizza-like 'flamecakes' and beer to supplement your viewing experience.

FlicksCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.theflicks-cambodia.com; 39B St 95; tickets US$3.50; W)

Flicks shows at least two movies a day in an uber-comfortable air-conditioned screening room. You can watch both films on one ticket.

Sovanna Phum Arts AssociationPERFORMING ARTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-987564; www.shadow-puppets.org; 166 St 99, btwn St 484 & St 498; adult/child US$5/3)S

Regular traditional shadow-puppet performances and occasional classical dance and traditional drum shows are held here at 7.30pm every Friday and Saturday night. Audience members are invited to try their hand at the shadow puppets after the 50-minute performance. Classes are available here in the art of shadow puppetry, puppet making, classical and folk dance, and traditional Khmer musical instruments.

7Shopping

An affirmation of identity, the krama (chequered scarf) is worn around the necks, shoulders and waists of nearly every Khmer. The scarves make superb souvenirs, as do Cambodia’s sculptures and handicrafts.

Bargains galore can be found at Phnom Penh’s vibrant markets. Navigating the labyrinths of shoes, clothing, bric-a-brac and food is one of the most enjoyable ways to earn a foot massage.

Psar ThmeiMARKET

(វត្តថ្មី, Central Market MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 130; h6.30am-5.30pm)

A landmark building in the capital, the art-deco Psar Thmei is often called the Central Market, a reference to its location and size. The huge domed hall resembles a Babylonian ziggurat – some claim it ranks as one of the 10 largest domes in the world. The design allows for maximum ventilation, and even on a sweltering day the central hall is cool and airy. The market was recently renovated with French government assistance and is looking good.

Russian MarketMARKET

(Psar Tuol Tom Pong; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; St 155; h6am-5pm)

This sweltering bazaar is the one market all visitors should come to at least once during a trip to Phnom Penh. It is the place to shop for souvenirs and discounted name-brand clothing. We can’t vouch for the authenticity of everything, but along with plenty of knock-offs you'll find genuine articles stitched in local factories. You’ll pay as little as 20% of the price back home for brands like Banana Republic, Billabong, Calvin Klein, Columbia, Gap and Next.

Night MarketMARKET

(Psar Reatrey; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr St 108 & Sisowath Quay; h5-11pm Fri-Sun)

A cooler, alfresco version of Russian Market, this night market takes place every Friday, Saturday and Sunday evening if it's not raining. Bargain vigorously, as prices can be on the high side. Interestingly, it’s probably more popular with Khmers than foreigners.

Monument BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 111 Norodom Blvd; h7am-8.30pm)

The best-stocked bookshop in town, with almost every Cambodia-related book available, a superb maps and travel section – plus a wi-fi-enabled branch of Blue Pumpkin cafe.

D’s BooksBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7 St 178; h9am-9pm)

The largest chain of secondhand bookshops in the capital, with a good range of titles. There's a second branch ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 79 St 240; h9am-9pm) just east of Norodom Blvd.

TOP FIVE: GOOD-CAUSE SHOPPING

The stores here sell high-quality silk items and handicrafts to provide the disabled and disenfranchised with valuable training for future employment, plus a regular flow of income to improve lives.

DaughtersFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.daughtersofcambodia.org; 65 St 178; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat)S

Daughters is an NGO that runs a range of programs to train and assist former prostitutes and victims of sex trafficking. The fashionable clothes, bags and accessories here are made with eco-friendly cotton and natural dyes by program participants.

Mekong BlueFASHION & ACCESSORIES

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.bluesilk.org; 9 St 130; h8am-6pm)S

This is the Phnom Penh boutique for Stung Treng’s best-known silk cooperative to empower women. Produces beautiful scarves and shawls, as well as jewellery.

RajanaARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.rajanacrafts.org; 170 St 450; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-5pm Sun)

One of the best all-around handicraft stores, Rajana aims to promote fair wages and training. It has a beautiful selection of cards, some quirky metalware products, jewellery, bamboo crafts, lovely shirts, gorgeous wall hangings, candles – you name it. Also has a shop ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Russian Market; h10am-6pm) at the Russian Market.

TabithaARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 239 St 360; h7am-6pm Mon-Sat)S

A leading NGO shop with a good collection of silk bags, tableware, bedroom decorations and children’s toys. Proceeds go towards rural community development, such as well-drilling.

Women for WomenFASHION & ACCESSORIES

(WFW; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.womanforwoman.net; 9 St 178; h7am-10pm)S

Pillows, throws, bags, scarves, jewellery, silver and more, hand-fashioned by women with disabilities.

8Orientation

Phnom Penh’s sequentially numbered streets may be a paragon of logic, but when it comes to house numbering, utter chaos reigns. It’s not uncommon to find a row of adjacent buildings numbered, say, 13A, 34, 7, 26. Worse, several buildings on the same street, blocks apart, may have adopted the same house number! When you’re given an address, try to get a cross-street, such as ‘on St 240 near St 51’.

8Information

Emergency

AmbulanceEMERGENCY

(%119, in English 023-724891)

FireEMERGENCY

(%in Khmer 118)

PoliceEMERGENCY

(%in Khmer 117)

WARNING: BAG-SNATCHING

Bag- and phone-snatching has become a real problem in Phnom Penh. Hot spots include the riverfront and busy areas around popular markets, but there is no real pattern and the speeding motorbike thieves, usually operating in pairs, can strike any place, any time. Countless expats and tourists have been injured falling off their bikes in the process of being robbed. Keep your valuables close or concealed and be prepared to let go rather than be dragged into the road. Keep shoulder bags in front of you when riding on motos (motorbike taxis). These people are real pros and only need one chance.

Internet Access

Pretty much all hotels and most cafes, restaurants and bars offer free wi-fi. Internet cafes are less common than they used to be, but usually charge US$0.50 to US$1 per hour.

Medical Services

Calmette HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-426948; 3 Monivong Blvd; h24hr)

The best of the local hospitals, with the most comprehensive services and an intensive care unit.

Tropical & Travellers Medical ClinicMEDICAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-306802; www.travellersmedicalclinic.com; 88 St 108; h9.30-11.30am & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30-11.30am Sat)

Well-regarded clinic, run by a British general practitioner for over a decade.

U-Care PharmacyPHARMACY

( GOOGLE MAP ; 26 Sothearos Blvd; h8am-10pm)

International-style pharmacy with a convenient location near the river.

Money

Phnom Penh’s airport has a few ATMs. The city has plenty of banks and exchange services, including the following:

ANZ Royal BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; 265 Sisowath Quay; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)

ANZ has ATMs galore all over town, including at supermarkets and petrol stations, but there is a US$5 charge per transaction.

Canadia BankBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr St 110 & Monivong Blvd; h8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 11.30am Sat)

Has ATMs around town, with a US$4 charge. At their flagship branch you can also change travellers cheques of several currencies for a 2% commission, plus get free cash advances on MasterCard and Visa. Also represents MoneyGram.

Post

Central Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; St 13 at St 100; h8am-6pm)

A landmark – it’s in a French colonial classic just east of Wat Phnom.

Tourist Information

There is not much in the way of official tourist information in the Cambodian capital, but private travel agencies are everywhere and are usually happy to dispense advice. The Phnom Penh Visitors’ Guide (www.canbypublications.com) has good maps and is brimming with useful information on the capital. Pick up the free Drinking & Dining and Out & About produced by Pocket Guides (www.cambodiapocketguide.com).

Travel Agencies

Reliable travel agencies include the following:

Palm ToursTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-726291; www.palmtours.biz; 1B St 278; h8am-9pm)

Efficient Volak and her team are a great option for bus tickets (no commission) and the like.

PTM Travel & ToursTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-219268; www.ptmcambodia.com; 200 Monivong Blvd; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

Good place for outgoing air tickets.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Many international air services run to/from Phnom Penh. Domestically, Cambodia Angkor Air ( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-666 6786; www.cambodiaangkorair.com; 206A Norodom Blvd) flies four to six times daily to Siem Reap (from US$60 one way, 30 minutes), while newcomers Bassaka Air (%023-217613; www.bassakaair.com) and Cambodia Bayon Airlines (%023-231555; www.bayonairlines.com) have at least one flight a day, from US$40 one way.

Boat

Between August and March, speedboats depart daily to Siem Reap (US$35, five to six hours) at 7.30am from the tourist boat dock at the eastern end of St 104, but the tickets are overpriced compared with the bus; see the boxed text ‘Getting to Vietnam: Mekong Delta Borders’.

Following the river to Chau Doc in Vietnam is a gorgeous way to go.

Bus

All major towns in Cambodia, plus regional hubs Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City and Pakse, are accessible by air-conditioned bus from Phnom Penh. Most buses leave from company offices, which are generally clustered around Psar Thmei or located near the corner of St 106 and Sisowath Quay.

Not all buses are created equal. Buses run by Capitol Tour and Phnom Penh Sorya are usually among the cheapest; Giant Ibis runs upscale ‘VIP’ buses with plenty of legroom and dysfunctional wi-fi, but they are about double the average price. Virak Buntham is the night-bus specialist.

Express vans are an option to most cities. These shave hours off average trip times, but are cramped and often travel at scary speeds.

Main bus companies:

Capitol TourBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-724104; 14 St 182)

Offers trips all the way through to Chau Doc using a combination of bus and boat. Capitol Tour services depart at 8am; the trip is about six to seven hours.

Giant IbisBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-999333; www.giantibis.com; 3 St 106)

'VIP' bus and express-van specialist. Big bus to Siem Reap has plenty of legroom and dysfunctional wi-fi. A portion of profits go toward Giant Ibis conservation.

GSTBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-218114; 13 St 142)

Mekong ExpressBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-427518; http://catmekongexpress.com; 2020 NH5)

Has a riverside booking office ( GOOGLE MAP ; Sisowath Quay).

Olympic ExpressBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %092 868782; 70 Monireth Blvd)

Phnom Penh SoryaBUS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-210359; cnr St 217 & St 67, Psar Thmei area)

Virak BunthamBUS

(Kampuchea Angkor Express; GOOGLE MAP ; %016 786270; 1 St 106)

Night-bus specialist with services to Siem Reap, Sihanoukville and Koh Kong.

BUSES FROM PHNOM PENH

Destination	Company	Fare (US$)	Duration (hr)	Frequency
Bangkok	Mekong Express, PP Sorya, Virak Buntham	18-23	12	daily per company
Battambang (day bus)	GST, PP Sorya, Virak Buntham	5-10	6	several per company
Ho Chi Minh City	Capitol Tour, Giant Ibis, Mekong Express, PP Sorya	8-13	7	several daily per company
Kampot (direct)	Capitol Tour	6	3	2 daily
Kampot (via Kep)	PP Sorya	6	4	7.30am, 9.30am, 2.45pm
Koh Kong	Olympic Express, PP Sorya, Virak Buntham	7	6	several daily per company
Kratie	PP Sorya	8	6-8	6.45am, 7.15am, 7.30am, 9.30am, 10.30am
Pakse via Don Det (Laos)	PP Sorya	28	12-14	6.45am
Sen Monorom	PP Sorya	9	8	7.30am
Siem Reap (day bus)	most companies	6-15	6	frequent
Sihanoukville	Capitol Tour, GST, Mekong Express, PP Sorya, Virak Buntham	5-6	5	frequent
Stung Treng	PP Sorya	12.50	9	6.45am, 7.30am

Car & Motorcycle

Guesthouses and travel agencies can arrange a car and driver for US$25 to US$75 a day, depending on the destination.

Share Taxi & Minibus

Share taxis serve most destinations. They save time and offer flexible departure times. Local minibuses and pick-ups tend to be slow and packed, but they will save you a buck or two if you’re pinching pennies and offer a true 'local' experience (especially if somebody vomits on you).

Taxis to Kampot, Kep and Takeo leave from Psar Dang Kor ( GOOGLE MAP ; Mao Tse Toung Blvd), while local minibuses and share taxis for most other places leave from the northwest corner of Psar Thmei ( GOOGLE MAP ).

GETTING TO VIETNAM: MEKONG DELTA BORDERS

PHNOM PENH TO HO CHI MINH CITY

The original Bavet/Moc Bai land crossing between Vietnam and Cambodia has seen steady traffic for two decades.

Getting to the border The easiest way to get to Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC; Saigon) is to catch an international bus (US$8 to US$13, six hours) from Phnom Penh. Numerous companies make this trip.

At the border Long lines entering either country are not uncommon, but otherwise it’s a straightforward crossing.

Moving on If you are not on the international bus, it’s not hard to find onward transport to HCMC or elsewhere. For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.

PHNOM PENH TO CHAU DOC

The most scenic way to end your travels in Cambodia is to sail the Mekong to Kaam Samnor, about 100km south-southeast of Phnom Penh, cross the border to Vinh Xuong in Vietnam, and proceed to Chau Doc on the Tonlé Bassac River via a small channel. Chau Doc has onward land and river connections to points in the Mekong Delta and elsewhere in Vietnam.

Various companies do trips all the way through to Chau Doc using a single boat (US$25 to US$35, about four hours) or a cheaper bus/boat combo (US$19). Prices vary according to speed and level of service. Departures are from the tourist boat dock in Phnom Penh. For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.

TAKEO TO CHAU DOC

The remote and seldom-used Phnom Den/Tinh Bien border crossing (open 7am to 5pm) between Cambodia and Vietnam lies about 50km southeast of Takeo town in Cambodia and offers connections to Chau Doc.

Getting to the border Take a share taxi (10,000r), a chartered taxi (US$25) or a moto (US$10) from Takeo to the border (48km).

At the border Formalities are minimal here, as international traffic is light.

Moving on On the other side, travellers are at the mercy of Vietnamese xe om (moto) drivers and taxis for the 30km journey from the border to Chau Doc. Prepare for some tough negotiations. Expect to pay around US$10 by bike, more like US$20 for a taxi. For information on making this crossing in reverse, see here.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport & Bus Station

Phnom Penh International Airport is 7km west of central Phnom Penh. An official booth outside the airport arrivals area arranges taxis/remorks to anywhere in the city for a flat US$12/7. You can get a remork for US$5 and a moto for US$3 if you walk one minute out to the street. Heading to the airport from central Phnom Penh, a taxi/remork/moto will cost about US$10/5/3. The journey usually takes about 30 minutes to one hour, depending on traffic.

If you arrive by bus, chances are you’ll be dropped off near Psar Thmei (aka Central Market), a short ride from most hotels and guesthouses. Figure on US$0.50 to US$1 for a moto, and US$2 to US$3 for a remork. Prices are about the same from the tourist boat dock on Sisowath Quay, where arriving boats from Vietnam and Siem Reap incite moto-madness.

Bicycle

Simple bicycles can be hired from some guesthouses and hotels from US$1 a day, or contact Vicious Cycle for something more sophisticated.

Moto, Remork & Cyclo

Motos are everywhere and the drivers of those hanging out around tourist areas can generally speak good street English. Short rides around the city cost 2000r rising to US$1 for a longer ride of 2km. At night these prices double. To charter one for a day, expect to pay around US$10 in town. Remorks usually charge double the price of a moto, possibly more if you pile on the passengers. Cyclos can be tougher to find but cost about the same as motos.

Motorcycle

Exploring Phnom Penh and the surrounding areas on a motorbike is a very liberating experience if you are used to chaotic traffic conditions. You generally get what you pay for when choosing a steel steed.

Lucky! Lucky!MOTORCYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %023-212788; 413 Monivong Blvd)

Motorbikes are US$4 to US$7 per day, less for multiple days. Trail bikes from US$12.

Vannak Bikes RentalMOTORCYCLE RENTAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %012 220970; 46 St 130)

Has high-performance trail bikes up to 600cc for US$15 to US$30 per day, and smaller motorbikes for US$5 to US$7.

Taxi

Taxis are cheap at 3000r per kilometre but don’t expect to flag one down on the street. Call Global Meter Taxi (%011 311888) or Choice Taxi (%010 888010, 023-888023) for a pick-up.

Around Phnom Penh

There are several sites close to Phnom Penh that make for interesting excursions.

Tonlé Bati, Phnom Tamao and Phnom Chisor are all near each other on NH2 and make a great full-day excursion by car or motorbike.

Koh Dach

Known as ‘Silk Island’ by foreigners, this is actually a pair of islands lying in the Mekong River about 5km northeast of the Japanese Friendship Bridge. They make for an easy half-day DIY excursion for those who want to experience the ‘real Cambodia’. The hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh feels light years away here. The name derives from the preponderance of silk weavers who inhabit the islands, and you'll have plenty of chances to buy from them.

Remork drivers offer half-day tours to Koh Dach; US$12 should do it, but be ready to negotiate. Daily boat tours from the tourist boat dock, departing at 8.30am, 9.30am and 1pm, are another option (minimum four people).

Tonlé Bati

Locals love to come to this lake (admission US$3) for picnics, as along the way they can stop off at two 12th-century temples: Ta Prohm and Yeay Peau. Ta Prohm is the more interesting of the two and it has some fine carvings in good condition, depicting scenes of birth, dishonour and damnation.

The well-marked turn-off to Tonlé Bati is on the right 33km south of central Phnom Penh. The Takeo-bound Phnom Penh Sorya bus (8000r, four daily – shoot for the 7am or 10.30am one) can drop you here; find a moto to the temples (1.8km from the highway). Returning to Phnom Penh, buy a ticket in advance on Sorya's Takeo–Phnom Penh bus. Otherwise, hire a moto.