These sights cluster around Karlsplatz, just southeast of the Ringstrasse (U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz). From the U-Bahn station’s passageway, it’s a 30-minute walk around the sights on Karlsplatz: the Karlskirche, Secession, and Naschmarkt.
This picnic-friendly square, with its Henry Moore sculpture in the pond, is ringed with sights. The massive, domed Karlskirche and its twin spiral columns dominates the square. The small green, white, and gold pavilions that line the street across the square from the church are from the late 19th-century municipal train system (Stadtbahn). One of Europe’s first subway systems, this precursor to today’s U-Bahn was built with a military purpose in mind: to move troops quickly in time of civil unrest—specifically, out to Schönbrunn Palace. With curvy iron frames, decorative marble slabs, and painted gold trim, these are pioneering works in the Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) style, designed by Otto Wagner, who influenced Klimt and the Secessionists. One of the pavilions has a sweet little exhibit on Otto Wagner which illustrates the Art Nouveau lifestyle around 1900. It also shows models for his never-built dreams and the grand expansion of Vienna (€4, described in English, April-Oct Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon and Nov-March, near the Ringstrasse, tel. 01/5058-7478-5177, wienmuseum.at).
Charles Borromeo, a 16th-century bishop from Milan, inspired his parishioners during plague times. This “votive church” was dedicated to him in 1713, when an epidemic spared Vienna. The church offers the best Baroque in the city, with a unique combination of columns (showing scenes from the life of Charles Borromeo, à la Trajan’s Column in Rome), a classic pediment, and an elliptical dome.
Cost and Hours: €6, ticket covers church interior, elevator ride, and skippable one-room museum; audioguide-€2; Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, Sun 13:00-18:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing; elevator runs until 17:30, last ascent at 17:00. The entry fee may seem steep, but remember that it helps to fund ongoing restoration.
Visiting the Church: The dome’s colorful 13,500-square-foot fresco—painted in the 1730s by Johann Michael Rottmayr—shows Signor Borromeo (in red-and-white bishops’ robes) gazing up into heaven, spreading his arms wide, and pleading with Christ to spare Vienna from the plague.
The church is especially worthwhile for the chance to ride an elevator (installed for renovation work) up into the cupola. The industrial lift takes you to a platform at the base of the 235-foot dome (if you’re even slightly afraid of heights, skip this trip). Consider that the church was built and decorated with a scaffolding system essentially the same as this one. Once up top, you’ll climb stairs to the steamy lantern at the extreme top of the church.
At that dizzying height, you’re in the clouds with cupids and angels. Many details that appear smooth and beautiful from ground level—such as gold leaf, paintings, and fake marble—look rough and sloppy up close. It’s surreal to observe the 3-D figures from an unintended angle—check out Christ’s leg, which looks dwarf-sized up close. Give yourself a minute to take it in: Faith, Hope, and Charity triumph and inspire. Borromeo lobbies heaven for plague relief. Meanwhile, a Protestant’s Lutheran Bible is put to the torch by angels. At the very top, you’ll see the tiny dove representing the Holy Ghost, surrounded by a cheering squad of nipple-lipped cupids.
This underappreciated city history museum, worth ▲ for those intrigued by Vienna’s illustrious past, walks you through the story of Vienna with well-presented artifacts.
Cost and Hours: €10, free first Sun of the month, open Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Karlsplatz 8, tel. 01/505-8747, wienmuseum.at.
Visiting the Museum: Work your way up chronologically. The ground floor exhibits prehistoric and Roman fragments, along with some original statues from St. Stephen’s Cathedral (c. 1350). You’ll also enjoy a rare close-up look at original stained class (circa 1500) from the cathedral.
The first floor focuses on the Renaissance and Baroque eras, including suits of armor, old city maps, booty from an Ottoman siege, and an 1850 city model showing the town just before the wall was replaced by the Ring. Finally, the second floor displays a city model from 1898 showing off the new Ringstrasse, sentimental Biedermeier paintings and objets d’art, and early 20th-century paintings (including four by Klimt, as well as works by Schiele, Kokoschka, and other Secessionists).
This museum—in a grand Neo-Renaissance building—features a small but impressive collection of works by Bosch, Botticelli, Guardi, Rubens, Van Dyck, and other great masters. It’s housed upstairs in a working art academy, giving it a certain sense of realness.
Cost and Hours: €8 includes permanent collection and special exhibits, audioguide-€2; Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, 3 blocks from the Opera at Schillerplatz 3, tel. 01/588-162-222, akademiegalerie.at.
Self-Guided Tour: Head into the academy building and go up two floors to the museum (follow signs for Gemäldegalerie). Upon entering, the contemporary art collection is on your right and the painting gallery (Gemäldegalerie) is on your left. Between them are statues celebrating the body, whose exposed musculature is a reminder that to realistically portray the human form you must first study it.
Walk into the painting gallery, which (confusingly) runs in reverse chronological order. Bear left into the first, smaller room, dedicated to the Academy of Fine Arts itself. At the end of this room is a portrait of the school’s founder, Empress Maria Theresa. This portrait, from 1750, is considered one of the best. It’s by the Swedish painter Martin Meytens, whose self-portrait looks on approvingly from the right. Also nearby you’ll see (pictured in the fine gold frame) one of the major donors of the collection, and early professors painting, drawing, and sculpting a nude model.
Go through the door to the right of Maria Theresa, and work your way counterclockwise through the exhibit. The section of 18th-century Italian works includes a Venice series by Francesco Guardi. In the long hall are typically Dutch and Flemish 17th-century still lifes and landscapes, as well as one Rembrandt (Portrait of a Young Woman, c. 1632). A group of paintings by Peter Paul Rubens includes his typical fleshy nudes, as well as quick, sketchy cartoons used to create giant canvases that once decorated a Jesuit church in Antwerp, Belgium (it later burned down, leaving only these rough plans). Don’t miss his voluptuous Three Graces. Nearby, in an oversized frame, Rubens’ talented protégé, Anthony van Dyck, shows his prowess in a famous self-portrait painted at the age of 15.
The Italian and Spanish Renaissance are well-represented by the likes of Titian and Murillo. At the end of the hall is one of the museum’s prize pieces, a round Botticelli canvas (recently cleaned to show off its vivid colors) depicting the Madonna tenderly embracing the Baby Jesus while angels look on.
At the end of the hall is the collection’s grand finale, the captivating, harrowing Last Judgment triptych by Hieronymus Bosch (c. 1482, with some details added by Lucas Cranach). This is the polar opposite of Bosch’s other most famous work, The Garden of Earthly Delights (in Madrid’s El Prado). Read the altarpiece from left to right, following the pessimistically medieval narrative about humankind’s fall from God’s graces: In the left panel, at the bottom, God pulls Eve from Adam’s rib in the Garden of Eden. Just above that, we see a female representing the serpent hold out the forbidden fruit to tempt Eve. Above that, Adam and Eve are being shooed away by an angel. At the top of this panel, God sits on his cloud, evicting the fallen angels (who turn into insect-like monsters). In the middle panel, Christ holds court over the living and the dead. Notice the jarring contrast between Christ’s serene expression and the grotesque scene playing out beneath him. These disturbing images crescendo in the final (right) panel, showing an unspeakably horrific vision of hell that few artists have managed to top in the more than half-millennium since Bosch.
On your way out of the academy, ponder how history might have been different if Adolf Hitler—who applied to study architecture here six years in a row but was rejected each time—had been accepted as a student. Before leaving, peek into the ground floor’s Neo-Renaissance central hall: It’s textbook Historicism, the Ringstrasse style of the late 1800s.
This little building, strategically located behind the Academy of Fine Arts, was created by the Vienna Secession movement, a group of nonconformist artists led by Gustav Klimt, Otto Wagner, and friends.
The young trees carved into the walls and the building’s bushy “golden cabbage” rooftop are symbolic of a renewal cycle. Today, the Secession continues to showcase cutting-edge art, as well as one of Gustav Klimt’s most famous works, the Beethoven Frieze.
Cost and Hours: €8.50 includes special exhibits, Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Friedrichstrasse 12, tel. 01/587-5307, secession.at.
Self-Guided Tour: The staff hopes you take a look at the temporary exhibits here, designed to illustrate how the spirit of the Secession survives a century after its founding. An association of 350 members chooses a dozen or so special exhibits each year to highlight local art happenings (and they’re included in the ticket price whether you like it or not).
Understandably—but unfortunately—most tourists head directly for the basement, home to the museum’s highlight: Gustav Klimt’s classic Beethoven Frieze. One of the masterpieces of Viennese Art Nouveau, this 105-foot-long fresco was the multimedia centerpiece of a 1902 exhibition honoring Ludwig van Beethoven. Read the free flier, which explains Klimt’s still-powerful work, inspired by Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. Klimt embellished the work with painted-on gold (his brother, and colleague, was a goldsmith) and by gluing on reflective glass and mother-of-pearl for the ladies’ dresses and jewelry. Working clockwise around the room, follow Klimt’s story:
Left Wall: Floating female figures drift and weave and search—like we all do—for happiness. Unfortunately, their aspirations are dashed and brought to earth, leaving them kneeling and humble. They plead for help from heroes stronger than themselves—represented by the firm knight in gold, who revives their hopes and helps them carry on.
Center Wall: The women encounter many obstacles in their pursuit of happiness—the three dangerous Gorgons (naked ladies with snake hair), the gorilla-faced monster of fear, and the three seductive women of temptation. These obstacles can leave us bent over with grief (like the woman on the right) while our hopes pass by overhead.
Right Wall: But we can still find happiness through art, thanks to Lady Poetry (with the lyre) and the great hero of the arts: Beethoven. In the original 1902 exhibition, a statue of Beethoven appeared at this crucial turning point in the narrative, where the blank space is today.
Beethoven’s presence inspires the yearning souls to carry on, and they finally reach true happiness. At the climax of the frieze, a naked couple embraces in ecstasy as a heavenly choir sings the “Ode to Joy” from the Ninth Symphony: “Joy, you beautiful spark of the gods...under thy gentle wings, all men shall become brothers.”
In 1898, the city decided to cover up its Vienna River. The long, wide square they created was filled with a lively produce market that still bustles most days (closed Sun). It’s long been known as the place to get exotic faraway foods. In fact, locals say, “From here start the Balkans.”
Hours and Location: Mon-Fri 6:00-18:30, Sat 6:00-17:00, closed Sun, closes earlier in winter; between Linke Wienzeile and Rechte Wienzeile, U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz.
Visiting the Naschmarkt: From near the Opera, the Naschmarkt (roughly, “Munchies Market”) stretches along Wienzeile street. This “Belly of Vienna” comes with two parallel lanes—one lined with fun and reasonable eateries, and the other featuring the town’s top-end produce and gourmet goodies. This is where top chefs like to get their ingredients. At the gourmet vinegar stall, you can sample the vinegar—like perfume—with a drop on your wrist. Farther from the center, the Naschmarkt becomes likeably seedy and surrounded by sausage stands, Turkish Döner Kebab stalls, cafés, and theaters. At the market’s far end is a line of buildings with fine Art Nouveau facades. Each Saturday, the Naschmarkt is infested by a huge flea market where, in olden days, locals would come to hire a monkey to pick little critters out of their hair (flea market sets up west of the Kettenbrückengasse U-Bahn station).
Picnickers can pick up their grub in the market and head over to Karlsplatz (described earlier) or the Burggarten. In recent years, some stalls have been taken over by hip new eateries and bars, bringing a youthful vibe and fun new tastes to the market scene.
While there are more stately and elegant streets in the central district, the best opportunity to simply feel the pulse of workaday Viennese life is a little farther out, along Mariahilfer Strasse. An easy plan is to ride the U-3 to the Zieglergasse stop, then stroll and browse your way downhill to the MuseumsQuartier U-Bahn station. If you’re interested in how Austria handles its people’s appetite for marijuana, search out two interesting stores along the way: Bushplanet Headshop (at Esterhazygasse 32, near the Neubaugasse U-Bahn stop) and Bushplanet Growshop (set back in a courtyard off Mariahilfer Strasse at #115, both locations Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, closed Sun, bushplanet.at).
This is the elegant palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy (1663-1736), the still-much-appreciated conqueror of the Ottomans. Today you can tour Eugene’s lavish palace, see sweeping views of the gardens and the Vienna skyline, and enjoy world-class art starring Gustav Klimt, French Impressionism, and a grab bag of other 19th- and early-20th-century artists. While Vienna’s other art collections show off works by masters from around Europe, this has the city’s best collection of homegrown artists.
Cost and Hours: €11 for Upper Belvedere Palace only, €16 for Upper and Lower palaces (generally not worth it), gardens free except for the Orangerie (included in big ticket), audioguide-€4 or €6/2 people, daily 10:00-18:00, Lower Palace only until 21:00 on Wed, grounds open until dusk, no photos allowed inside, entrance at Prinz-Eugen-Strasse 27, tel. 01/7955-7134, belvedere.at.
Eating at the Belvedere: There’s a charming little café on the ground floor of the Upper Palace, where you can dine with portraits of the emperor and empress looking down upon you; in summer you can sit outdoors in the garden.
Getting There: The palace is a 15-minute walk south of the Ring. To get there from the center, catch tram #D at the Opera (direction: Hauptbahnhof). Get off at the Schloss Belvedere stop (just below the Upper Palace gate), cross the street, walk uphill one block, go through the gate (on left), and look immediately to the right for the small building with the ticket office.
Self-Guided Tour: The Belvedere Palace is actually two grand buildings—the Upper Palace and Lower Palace—separated by a fine garden. For our purposes, the Upper Palace is what matters. Buy your ticket at the office behind the palace, then go around to the front to enter. Once inside, the palace’s eclectic collection is tailor-made for browsing. There are two grand floors, set around impressive middle halls.
Ground Floor: The main floor displays a collection of Austrian Baroque (on the left) and medieval art (on the right). The Baroque section includes a fascinating room of grotesquely grimacing heads by Franz Xaver Messerschmidt (1736-1783), a quirky 18th-century Habsburg court sculptor who left the imperial life to follow his own, somewhat deranged muse. After his promising career was cut short by mental illness, Messerschmidt relocated to Bratislava and spent the rest of his days sculpting a series of eerily lifelike “character heads” (Kopfstücke). Their most unusual faces are contorted by extreme emotions.
• From the entrance, climb the staircase to the first floor and enter the grand red-and-gold, chandeliered...
Marble Hall: This was Prince Eugene’s party room. Belvedere means “beautiful view,” and the view from the Marble Hall is especially spectacular.
• Facing the garden, to the right is the...
East Wing: Alongside Renoir’s ladies, Monet’s landscapes, and Van Gogh’s rough brushstrokes are similar works by their lesser-known Austrian counterparts. Around 1900, Austrian artists come to the fore, soaking up Symbolism, Expressionism, and other Modernist trends.
In the two rooms full of sumptuous paintings by Gustav Klimt, you can get caught up in his fascination with the beauty and danger he saw in women. To Klimt, all art was erotic art. He painted during the turn of the century, when Vienna was a splendid laboratory of hedonism.
The famous painting of Judith I (1901) shows no biblical heroine—Klimt paints her as a high-society Vienna woman with an ostentatious dog-collar necklace. With half-closed eyes and slightly parted lips, she’s dismissive...yet mysterious and bewitching. Holding the head of her biblical victim, she’s the modern femme fatale.
In what is perhaps Klimt’s best-known painting, The Kiss, two lovers are wrapped up in the colorful gold-and-jeweled cloak of bliss. Klimt’s woman is no longer dominating, but submissive, abandoning herself to her man in a fertile field and a vast universe. In a glow emanating from a radiance of desire, the body she presses against is a self-portrait of the artist himself.
Klimt nurtured the next generation of artists, especially Egon Schiele. While Klimt’s works are mystical and otherworldly, Schiele’s tend to be darker and more introspective. One of Schiele’s most recognizable works, The Embrace, shows a couple engaged in an erotically charged, rippling moment of passion. Striking a darker tone is The Family, which depicts a crouching couple. This family portrait from 1918 is especially poignant because his wife died while he was still working on it.
The Rest of the Upper Palace: The Belvedere’s collection goes through the whole range of 19th- and 20th-century art: Historicism, Romanticism, Impressionism, Realism, tired tourism, Expressionism, Art Nouveau, and early Modernism.
Grounds and Gardens: The delightfully manicured grounds are free and fun to explore. The only area with an entry fee is the Orangerie garden, along the west side of the Lower Palace (and accessed through that palace).
Lower Palace: Covered by a separate ticket, this is the home where Prince Eugene actually hung his helmet. Today it contains a small stretch of three of his private apartments (relatively uninteresting compared to the sumptuous Habsburg apartments elsewhere in town). The Lower Palace also houses some generally good special exhibits, as well as the entrance to the Orangerie, privy garden, and stables (until 12:00). If the special exhibits intrigue you, it’s worth buying the combo-ticket to get in here; otherwise, I wouldn’t bother to visit.
Facing the old town from across the Ring, the MAK, as it’s called, is Vienna’s answer to London’s Victoria and Albert Museum.
Cost and Hours: €8, €10 includes a hefty English guidebook, free Tue after 18:00; open Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00, Tue 10:00-22:00, closed Mon, Stubenring 5, tel. 01/711-360, mak.at.
Visiting the Museum: The MAK is more than just another grand building on the Ringstrasse. It was built to provide models of historic design for Ringstrasse architects and is a delightful space in itself (many locals stop in to enjoy a coffee on the plush couches in the main lobby). The collection of furniture, ceramics, textiles, metalwork, and more shows off the fancies of local aristocratic society, including fine Biedermeier and Jugendstil pieces (among them, Klimt designs for a palace in Brussels).
Each wing is dedicated to a different era. Exhibits, well-described in English (borrow the captions in each room), come with a playful modern flair—notable modern designers were assigned various spaces. An interesting section covers the Vienna Workshop project (Wiener Werkstätte). Inspired by England’s Arts and Crafts movement, it was born about 1903 to keep craftspeople (cabinetmakers, bookbinders, metalworkers, and so on) competitive in the Industrial Age. While the workshop lasted a decade, it had more idealism than business savvy. Mass production eventually won out, and its products faded into oblivion.
The unique gift shop also makes for a fun diversion.
Eating at the MAK: The beautiful lobby hosts an inviting café. The Restaurant Österreicher im MAK, in the same building, is named for Chef Helmut Österreicher, who’s renowned for his classic and modern Viennese cuisine. Classy and mod, it’s trendy for locals (€9-23 plates, daily 10:00-1:00 in the morning, reserve for evening, tel. 01/714-0121).
Built between 1904 and 1912, Vienna’s Postal Savings Bank offers a fascinating look into the society, as well as the architecture, of that age. The main part of the building, which still functions as a bank, is open to the public.
Cost and Hours: Bank foyer—free, museum—€6, Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun, just off the Ringstrasse at Georg-Coch-Platz 2, ottowagner.com.
Visiting the Postal Savings Bank: The postal savings system was intended for working-class people, who did not have access to the palatial banks of the 19th century. Secessionist architect Otto Wagner believed “necessity is the master of art,” and he declared that “what is impractical can never be beautiful.” Everything about his design—so gray, white, and efficient—is practical. It’s so clean that the service provided here feels almost sacred. This is a textbook example of form following function, and the form is beautiful.
The product of an age giddy with advancement, the building dignifies the technological and celebrates it as cultural. Study the sleek, yet elegantly modern exterior: Angles high above—made of an exciting new material, aluminum—seem to proclaim the modern age. The facade and its unadorned marble siding panels, secured by aluminum bolts, give the impression that the entire building is a safe-deposit box. The interior is similarly functionalist. The glass roof lets in light; the glass floor helps illuminate the basement. Fixtures, vents, and even the furniture fit right in—all bold, geometrical, and modern. In the back, the fine little Museum Postsparkasse is dedicated to Wagner and provides a visual review of his work.
While much of the Habsburg Empire was built on strategic marriages rather than the spoils of war, a big part of Habsburg history is military. And this huge place, built about 1860 as an arsenal by Franz Josef, tells the story well with a thoughtful motto (apparently learned from the school of hard knocks): “War belongs to museums.”
Cost and Hours: €5 includes good audioguide, daily 9:00-17:00, on Arsenalstrasse near the Hauptbahnhof, tel. 01/795-610, hgm.or.at. It’s a 10-minute walk behind the Belvedere Palace.
Visiting the Museum: Located inconveniently outside the Ring, you’ll wander the wings of this vast museum nearly all alone. Its two floors hold a rich collection of artifacts and historic treasures from the times of Maria Theresa to Prince Eugene to Franz Joseph. The particularly interesting 20th-century section includes exhibits devoted to Sarajevo in 1914 (with the car Franz Ferdinand rode in and the uniform he wore when he was assassinated), Chancellor Dolfuss and the pre-Hitler Austrian Fascist party, the Anschluss, and World War II.
This “make yourself at home” museum and nearby apartment complex are a hit with lovers of modern art, mixing the work and philosophy of local painter/environmentalist Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928-2000).
Cost and Hours: €10 for Hundertwasser Museum, €12 combo-ticket includes special exhibitions, half-price on Mon, open daily 10:00-19:00, extremely fragrant and colorful garden café, tel. 01/712-0491, kunsthauswien.com.
Getting There: It’s located at Untere Weissgerberstrasse 13 (tram #1: Radetzkyplatz or U-3: Landstrasse). Note that the tram stop is much closer than the U-Bahn stop. From the Landstrasse U-Bahn stop, walk 10 minutes downhill (north) along Untere Viaduktgasse (a block east of the station), or ride tram #0 three stops to Radetzkyplatz; from there signs point to the museum.
Visiting the Museum and Apartments: Stand in front of the colorful checkerboard building that houses the Kunst Haus Wien Museum. Consider Hundertwasser’s style. He was against “window racism”: Neighboring houses allow only one kind of window, but 100H2O’s windows are each different—and he encouraged residents in the Hundertwasserhaus (a 5-10 minute walk away, described below) to personalize them. He recognized “tree tenants” as well as human tenants. His buildings are spritzed with a forest and topped with dirt and grassy little parks—close to nature and good for the soul.
Floors and sidewalks are irregular—to “stimulate the brain” (although current residents complain it just causes wobbly furniture and sprained ankles). Thus 100H2O waged a one-man fight—during the 1950s and 1960s, when concrete and glass ruled—to save the human soul from the city. (Hundertwasser claimed that “straight lines are godless.”)
Inside the museum, start with his interesting biography. His fun paintings are half psychedelic Jugendstil and half just kids’ stuff. Notice the photographs from his 1950s days as part of Vienna’s bohemian scene. Throughout the museum, keep an eye out for the fun philosophical quotes from an artist who believed, “If man is creative, he comes nearer to his creator.”
The Kunst Haus Wien provides by far the best look at Hundertwasser, but for an actual lived-in apartment complex by the green master, walk 5-10 minutes to the one-with-nature Hundertwasserhaus (at Löwengasse and Kegelgasse). This complex of 50 apartments, subsidized by the government to provide affordable housing, was built in the 1980s as a breath of architectural fresh air in a city of boring, blocky apartment complexes. While not open to visitors, it’s worth visiting for its fun and colorful patchwork exterior and the Hundertwasser festival of shops across the street. Don’t miss the view from Kegelgasse to see the “tree tenants” and the internal winter garden that residents enjoy.
Hundertwasser detractors—of which there are many—remind visitors that 100H2O was a painter, not an architect. They describe the Hundertwasserhaus as a “1950s house built in the 1980s” that was colorfully painted with no real concern for the environment, communal living, or even practical comfort. Almost all of the original inhabitants got fed up with the novelty and moved out.
Freud enthusiasts enjoy seeing the humble apartment and workplace of the man who fundamentally changed our understanding of the human psyche. Dr. Sigmund Freud (1856-1939), a graduate of Vienna University, established his practice here in 1891. For the next 47 years, he received troubled patients who hoped to find peace by telling him their dreams, life traumas, and secret urges. It was here that he wrote his influential works, including the landmark Interpretation of Dreams (1899).
Cost and Hours: €8 includes audioguide, daily 9:00-18:00, cool shop, half a block downhill from the Schlickgasse tram #D stop, Berggasse 19, tel. 01/319-1596, freud-museum.at.
Visiting the Museum: Today, you can walk through his three-room office (but not the apartments next door, where Freud lived with his large family). The rooms are tiny and disappointingly bare. Freud, who was Jewish, fled Vienna when the Nazis came to power. He took most of his furniture with him, including the famous couch that patients reclined on (now in a London museum).
All in all, the museum is quite old-fashioned—tediously described in a three-ring binder loaned to visitors, which complements the more general audioguide.
Bizarre, sensuous, eccentric, or precious, this collection (on four fascinating floors) is your peek at the Habsburgs’ furniture—from the empress’s wheelchair (“to increase her fertility she was put on a rich diet and became corpulent”) to the emperor’s spittoon—all thoughtfully described in English. Evocative paintings help bring the furniture to life. The Habsburgs had many palaces, but only the Hofburg was permanently furnished. The rest were done on the fly—set up and taken down by a gang of royal roadies called the “Depot of Court Movables” (Hofmobiliendepot). When the monarchy was dissolved in 1918, the state of Austria took possession of the Hofmobiliendepot’s inventory—165,000 items. Now this royal storehouse is open to the public in a fine and sprawling museum. Don’t go here for the Jugendstil furnishings. The older Baroque, Rococo, and Biedermeier pieces are the most impressive and tied most intimately to the royals. Combine a visit to this museum with a stroll down the lively shopping boulevard, Mariahilfer Strasse.
Cost and Hours: €8, covered by Sisi Ticket (see here), Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, Mariahilfer Strasse 88, main entrance around the corner at Andreasgasse 7, U-3: Zieglergasse, tel. 01/5243-3570, hofmobiliendepot.at.
Among Europe’s palaces, only Schönbrunn rivals Versailles. This former summer residence of the Habsburgs is big, with 1,441 rooms. But don’t worry—only 40 rooms are shown to the public. Of the plethora of sights at the palace, the highlight is a tour of the Royal Apartments—the chandeliered rooms where the Habsburg nobles lived. You can also stroll the gardens, tour the coach museum, and visit a handful of lesser sights nearby.
Getting There: While on the outskirts of Vienna, Schönbrunn is an easy 10-minute subway ride from downtown. Take U-4 to Schönbrunn and follow signs for Schloss Schönbrunn. Exit bearing right, then cross the busy road and continue to the right along the yellow building to the main entry courtyard, which will be on your left. Tickets are sold at the visitors center, just left of the main entrance to the palace grounds (well before you get to the actual palace).
Although the palace’s exterior is Baroque, the interior was finished under Maria Theresa in let-them-eat-cake Rococo. As with the similar apartments at the Hofburg (the Habsburgs’ winter home), these apartments give you a sense of the quirky, larger-than-life personalities who lived here—especially Franz Josef (r. 1848-1916) and Sisi. Your tour of the apartments, accompanied by an audioguide, covers one small section of the palace’s grand interior on a clearly signed route. You have two tour options: Imperial (shorter and cheaper) or Grand (longer and more expensive). Both follow the same route at first, but after a certain point the Imperial group is politely excused while the Grand gang continues on to see a few more rooms.
Cost: The 22-room Imperial Tour is €10.50 (35 minutes, includes audioguide, Grand Palace rooms plus apartments of Franz Josef and Sisi—mostly 19th-century and therefore least interesting). The much better 40-room Grand Tour costs €13.50 (50 minutes, includes audioguide, everything on Imperial Tour plus Maria Theresa’s apartments—18th-century Rococo). If venturing beyond the apartments, consider one of two combo-tickets: The Classic Pass includes the Grand Tour, as well as other sights on the grounds—the Gloriette viewing terrace, maze, and privy garden (€16.50, available April-Oct only). The Classic Pass Plus includes all the above, plus the court bakery (complete with Apfelstrudel demo and tasting; €19.50, available April-Oct only). However, none of the extra sights covered by either pass is really worth the cost of entry, so I’d skip them and just do the Grand Tour, followed by a mosey through the impressive grounds (which are free).
Hours: Daily July-Aug 8:30-18:30, April-June and Sept-Oct 8:30-17:30, Nov-March 8:30-17:00.
Information: Tel. 01/8111-3239, schoenbrunn.at.
Reservations: To avoid getting stuck in the ticket-buying line, book advance tickets online at the palace website. You’ll reserve an entry time and date, then print your tickets before you come (ask at your hotel if you need access to a printer). Tickets can also be reserved by phone and picked up at the visitors center (tel. 01/81113-239).
Crowd-Beating Tips: Schönbrunn suffers from crowds. It can be a jam-packed sauna in the summer. It’s busiest from 9:30 to 11:30, especially on weekends and in July and August; it’s least crowded after 14:00, when there are no groups. To avoid the long delays in summer, make a reservation online or by phone (see above).
Visiting the Royal Apartments: Moving from room to room, you’re immersed in imperial splendor. The chandeliers are made either of Bohemian crystal or hand-carved wood with gold-leaf gilding. Highlights include Franz Josef’s study and bedroom (and the bed he actually died in). The Mirrored Room was where six-year-old Wolfie Mozart performed his first concert. The opulent, chandeliered Great Gallery—with its mirrored walls and dramatically frescoed ceilings—was the site of a famous 1961 summit between John F. Kennedy and Nikita Khrushchev.
Fortunately, the palace managed to escape destruction when WWII bombs rained on the city and the palace grounds. The palace itself took only one direct hit. Thankfully, that bomb, which crashed through three floors—including the sumptuous central ballroom—was a dud. Most of the public rooms are decorated in Neo-Baroque, as they were under Franz Josef and Sisi. The rest of the palace was converted to simple apartments and rented to the families of 260 civil servants, who enjoy rent control and governmental protections so they can’t be evicted.
Unlike the gardens of Versailles, meant to shut out the real world, Schönbrunn’s park was opened to the public in 1779 while the monarchy was in full swing. It was part of Maria Theresa’s reform policy, making the garden a celebration of the evolution of civilization from autocracy into real democracy.
Today it’s a delightful, sprawling place to wander—especially on a sunny day. You can spend hours here, enjoying the views and the people-watching. And most of the park is free, as it has been for more than two centuries (open daily sunrise to dusk, entrance on either side of the palace).
Getting Around the Gardens: A tourist train makes the rounds all day, connecting Schönbrunn’s many attractions (€6, 2/hour in peak season, none Nov-mid-March, one-hour circuit). Unfortunately, there’s no bike rental nearby.
Visiting the Gardens: The large, manicured grounds are laid out on angled, tree-lined axes that gradually incline, offering dramatic views back to the palace. The small side gardens flanking the palace are the most elaborate. As you face the back of the palace, to the right is the privy garden (Kronprinzengarten, €2.50); to the left are the free Sisi Gardens. Better yet, just explore, using a map (pick one up at the palace) to locate several whimsical fountains; a kid-friendly maze (Irrgarten) and playground area (€3.50); and the Gloriette, a purely decorative monument celebrating an obscure Austrian military victory and offering a fine city view (pay for a pricey drink in the café, shell out €2.50 to hike up to the viewing terrace, or skip the whole thing, as views are about as good from the lawn in front; included in Schönbrunn passes described earlier, daily April-Sept 9:00-18:00, July-Aug until 19:00, Oct 9:00-17:00, closed Nov-March).
At the west end of the grounds is Europe’s oldest zoo (Tiergarten), built by Maria Theresa’s husband for the entertainment and education of the court in 1752 (€15, €20 combo-ticket with palm and desert houses, daily April-Sept 9:00-18:30, closes earlier off-season, tel. 01/877-9294, zoovienna.at). Nearby are two skippable sights: The palm house (Palmenhaus; €4, €6 combo-ticket with desert house, €20 combo-ticket also includes zoo, daily May-Sept 9:30-18:00, Oct-April 9:30-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing) and the Desert Experience House (Wüstenhaus; €4, same combo-tickets and hours as palm house).
The Schönbrunn coach museum is a 19th-century traffic jam of 50 impressive royal carriages and sleighs. Highlights include silly sedan chairs, the death-black hearse carriage (used for Franz Josef in 1916, and most recently for Empress Zita in 1989), and an extravagantly gilded imperial carriage pulled by eight Cinderella horses. This was rarely used other than for the coronation of Holy Roman Emperors, when it was disassembled and taken to Frankfurt for the big event. You’ll also get a look at one of Sisi’s impossibly narrow-waisted gowns, and (upstairs) Sisi’s “Riding Chapel,” with portraits of her 25 favorite horses.
Cost and Hours: €6, audioguide-€2, daily April-Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-March 10:00-16:00, 200 yards from palace, walk through right arch as you face palace, tel. 01/525-24-3470.
Since the 1780s, when the reformist Emperor Josef II gave his hunting grounds to the people of Vienna as a public park, this place has been Vienna’s playground. For the tourist, the “Prater” is the sugary-smelling, tired, and sprawling amusement park (Wurstelprater). For locals, the “Prater” is the vast, adjacent green park with its three-mile-long, tree-lined main boulevard (Hauptallee). The park still tempts visitors with its huge 220-foot-tall, famous, and lazy Ferris wheel (Riesenrad), roller coaster, bumper cars, Lilliputian railroad, and endless eateries. Especially if you’re traveling with kids, this is a fun, goofy place to share the evening with thousands of Viennese.
Cost and Hours: Rides run May-Sept 9:00-24:00—but quiet after 22:00, March-April and Oct 10:00-22:00, Nov-Dec 10:00-20:00, grounds always open, U-1: Praterstern, prater.at. For a local-style family dinner, eat at Schweizerhaus (good food, great Czech Budvar—the original “Budweiser”—beer, classic conviviality).
In the 1970s, as part of a flood protection program, the city dug a channel (the so-called Neue Donau—New Danube) parallel to the Danube River. With the dredged-out dirt, the engineers formed 12-mile-long Danube Island. Originally just an industrial site, it’s evolved into a much-loved idyllic escape from the city (easy U-Bahn access on U-1: Donauinsel).
The skinny island provides a natural wonderland. All along the pedestrianized, grassy park, you’ll find locals—both Viennese and especially immigrants and those who can’t afford their own cabin or fancy vacation—at play. The swimming comes tough, though, with rocky entries rather than sand. The best activity here is a bike ride. If you venture far from the crowds, you’re likely to encounter nudists on inline skates.
Biking Danube Island: For a simple, breezy joyride, bike up and down the traffic-free and people-filled island. Weather permitting, you can rent a bike from the shop at the Reichsbrücke, the bridge spanning the island (€6/hour, €25/day, March-Oct daily 9:00-21:00, closed off-season, 70 yards from U-1: Donauinsel, tel. 01/263-5242, fahrradverleih.at).
This modern part of town, just beyond Danube Island, is the skyscraping “Manhattan” of Austria. It was laid out as a potential Vienna-Budapest expo site in the 1990s. But Austrians voted down the fair idea, and eventually the real estate became today’s modern planned city: It’s quiet and traffic-free, with inviting plazas and a small church dwarfed by towering places of business. The high-rise DC Towers are the tallest office buildings in Austria. With business, residential, and shopping zones surrounded by inviting parkland, this corner of the city is likely to grow as Vienna expands. Its centerpiece is the futuristic UNO City, one of four United Nations headquarters worldwide. While it lacks the Old World character, charm, and elegance of the rest of Vienna, Donau City may interest travelers who are into contemporary glass-and-steel architecture (U-1: Kaisermühlen VIC).
Biking to Donau City and Beyond: Sightseers on bike can cross the Danube to Donau City. From the Opera, it’s pretty much a straight pedal around the center via the Ringstrasse, past Prater Park, and across the river. The way is easy enough to find with the help of the basic tourist map from the TI. (Recommended local guide Wolfgang Höfler leads tours along this route, which he shared with me; see here.)
The route will take you over four stretches of water: the Danube Canal, the actual Danube, the New Danube, and the Old Danube. Along the way, you’ll gain a better understanding of the massive engineering done over the years to contain and tame the river.
As you leave the city center, you’ll first pedal over the Danube Canal, an arm of the river that brings river traffic into the city; then you hit the main part of the river and the man-made Danube Island (itself a part of the city’s flood barriers). From the Reichsbrücke bridge over the island, survey the river’s traffic. The cruise industry is booming, and Vienna’s river cruise port is hosting more boats than ever. Many of them sail from here all the way to Romania and the Black Sea coast. You may also be inspired by the entire Austrian navy: Look for the two tiny camouflaged gunboats moored in the shade of the bridge.
In the distance, across the river, are the skyscrapers of Donau City. To reach it, continue across the bridge over Danube Island and cross the New Danube. From Donau City, the bike path leads across the Old Danube (Alte Donau), an old arm of the river but now a lake, which hosts a frolicking park with all the water fun a hot-and-tired city could hope for, including lakeside cafés and boat rentals. From here you can simply retrace your route, or you can make a big circle by following the delightful bike path southeast along the Old Danube to the next bridge (Praterbrücke). This leads to the vast Prater Park, where you’ll follow the breezy main boulevard (Hauptallee) back to the big Ferris wheel and ultimately to downtown.
In Vienna, the living room is down the street at the neighborhood coffeehouse. This tradition is just another example of Viennese expertise in good living. Each of Vienna’s many long-established (and sometimes even legendary) coffeehouses has its individual character (and characters). These classic cafés can be a bit tired, with a shabby patina and famously grumpy waiters who treat you like an uninvited guest invading their living room. Yet these spaces somehow also feel welcoming, offering newspapers, pastries, sofas, quick and light workers’ lunches, elegant ambience, and “take all the time you want” charm for the price of a cup of coffee. Rather than buy the International Herald Tribune ahead of time, spend the money on a cup of coffee and read the paper for free, Vienna-style, in a café.
As in Italy and France, Viennese coffee drinks are espresso-based. Obviously, Kaffee means coffee and Milch is milk; Obers is cream, while Schlagobers is whipped cream. Americans who ask for a “latte” are mistaken for Italians and given a cup of hot milk.
These are some of my favorite Viennese cafés. All of them, except for Café Sperl, are located inside the Ring (see map on here).
Café Hawelka has a dark, “brooding Trotsky” atmosphere, paintings by struggling artists who couldn’t pay for coffee, a saloon-wood flavor, chalkboard menu, smoked velvet couches, an international selection of newspapers, and a phone that rings for regulars. Frau Hawelka died just a couple weeks after Pope John Paul II. Locals suspect the pontiff wanted her much-loved Buchteln (marmalade-filled doughnuts) in heaven. The café remains family-run (Wed-Mon 8:00-21:00, closed Tue, just off the Graben, Dorotheergasse 6, U-1 or U-3: Stephansplatz, tel. 01/512-8230).
Café Central, while a bit touristy, remains a classic place, lavish under Neo-Gothic columns. They serve fancy coffees (€4-6) and two-course daily specials (€10), and entertain guests with live piano—schmaltzy tunes on a fine, Vienna-made Bösendorfer each evening from 17:00-22:00 (daily 7:30-22:00, corner of Herrengasse and Strauchgasse, U-3: Herrengasse, tel. 01/533-3764).
Café Sperl dates from 1880 and is still furnished identically to the day it opened—from the coat tree to the chairs (Mon-Sat 7:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-20:00 except closed Sun July-Aug, just off Naschmarkt near Mariahilfer Strasse, Gumpendorfer 11, U-2: MuseumsQuartier, tel. 01/586-4158; see map on here).
Café Bräunerhof, between the Hofburg and the Graben, offers classic ambience with no tourists and live music on weekends (light classics, no cover, Sat-Sun 15:00-18:00), along with a practical menu with daily lunch specials (daily 8:00-20:00, Stallburgasse 2, U-1 or U-3: Stephansplatz, tel. 01/512-3893).
Other Classics in the Old Center: All of these places are open long hours daily: Café Pruckel (at Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Platz, across from Stadtpark at Stubenring 24); Café Tirolerhof (2 blocks from the Opera, behind the TI on Tegetthoffstrasse, at Führichgasse 8); and Café Landtmann (directly across from the City Hall on the Ringstrasse at Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Ring 4). The Landtmann is unique, as it’s the only grand café built along the Ring with all the other grand buildings. Café Sacher (see here) and Demel (see here) are famous for their cakes, but they also serve good coffee drinks.
The Heuriger (HOY-rih-gur) is a uniquely Viennese institution. When the Habsburgs let Vienna’s vintners sell their own new wine (called Sturm) tax-free, several hundred families opened Heurigen—wine-garden restaurants clustered around the edge of town. A tradition was born. Today, they do their best to maintain the old-village atmosphere, serving their homemade wine (the most recent vintage, until November 11, when a new vintage year begins) with small meals and strolling musicians. Most Heurigen are decorated with enormous antique presses from their vineyards. (For a near-Heuriger experience in downtown Vienna, drop by Gigerl Stadtheuriger—see here.)
Many places close one day a week and in winter, so call first. Several employ gypsy-type strolling musicians (accordionists and violinists who add ambience for tips). Most Heurigen have play zones for kids. And, depending on the weather, it’s either all outside or all inside.
I’ve listed three good Heuriger neighborhoods, all on the outskirts of Vienna. To reach the neighborhoods from downtown Vienna, it’s best to use public transportation (cheap, 30 minutes, runs late in the evening, directions given per listing below), or you can take a 15-minute taxi ride from the Ring (about €15-20).
While there are some “destination” Heurigen, it can be disappointing to seek out a particular place, because the ambience can change depending on that evening’s clientele (locals vs. tour groups). Each neighborhood I’ve described is a square or hub with two or three recommended spots and many other wine gardens worth considering. Wander around, then choose the Heuriger with the best atmosphere.
This district is farthest from the city but is still easy to reach by public transit. It feels a little less touristy than other places.
Fuhrgassl Huber, which brags it’s the biggest Heuriger in Vienna, can accommodate 1,000 people inside and just as many outside. You can lose yourself in its sprawling backyard, with vineyards streaking up the hill from terraced tables. Musicians stroll most nights (Tue-Sat after 19:00; open daily 14:00-24:00, Neustift am Walde 68, tel. 01/440-1405, fuhrgassl-huber.at, family Huber).
Das Schreiberhaus Heurigen-Restaurant is another popular, family-owned place with creaky old-time dining rooms papered with celebrity photos, with 600 spaces inside and another 600 outside, music nightly after 19:00, and a backyard reaching deep into its vineyards (open daily 11:00-24:00, Rathstrasse 54, tel. 01/440-3844, dasschreiberhaus.at).
Weinhof Zimmermann, while a bit of a walk from the bus stop, is my favorite. It’s a sprawling farmhouse where the green tables on patios echo the terraced fields all around. While dining, you’ll feel like you’re actually right in the vineyard. The idyllic setting comes with rabbits in petting cages, great food, no city views but fine hillside vistas, and wonderful peace (Mon-Sat 15:00-24:00, closed Sun, tel. 01/440-1207, weinhof-zimmermann.at). Ride bus #35A to the Agnesgasse stop (at the corner of Rathstrasse and Agnesgasse, just before the Neustift am Walde stop), then hike uphill on Agnesgasse to the farm at Mitterwurzergasse 20.
Getting to the Neustift am Walde Heurigen: Simply ride bus #35A to the stop in Neustift am Walde (catch the bus from the Nussdorfer Strasse stop on the U-6).
An untouristy district, characteristic and popular with the Viennese, Nussdorf has plenty of Heuriger ambience. This area feels very real with a working-class vibe, streets lined with local shops, and characteristic Heurigen that feel a little bit rougher around the edges.
Schübel-Auer Heuriger is my favorite here—with a big and user-friendly buffet (many dishes are labeled and the patient staff speaks English). Its rustic ambience can be enjoyed indoors or out (Tue-Sat 16:00-24:00, closed Sun-Mon, Kahlenberger Strasse 22, tel. 01/370-2222, schuebel-auer.at).
Heuriger Kierlinger, next door, is also good, with a particularly rollicking, woody room around its buffet (daily 15:30-24:00, Kahlenberger Strasse 20, tel. 01/370-2264, kierlinger.at).
Bamkraxler (“Tree-Climber”) is the only Biergarten amid all these vineyards. It’s a fun-loving, youthful place with fine keg beer and a regular menu—traditional, ribs, veggie, kids’ menu—rather than the Heuriger cafeteria line (€7-13 meals, kids’ playground, Tue-Sat 16:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-24:00, closed Mon, Kahlenberger Strasse 17, tel. 01/318-8800, bamkraxler.at). To get here, walk all the way through the others, pop out on Kahlenberger Strasse, and walk 20 yards uphill.
Getting to the Nussdorf Heurigen: Take tram #D from the Ringstrasse (stops include the Opera, Hofburg/Kunsthistorisches Museum, and City Hall) to its endpoint (the stop labeled Nussdorf isn’t the end—stay on for one more stop to Beethovengang). Exit the tram, cross the tracks, go uphill 40 yards, and look for the Heurigen on your left.
Not far from Nussdorf, hiding just above the unappealing main road, is Pfarrplatz, which feels like a charming village square watched over by a church. Beethoven lived—and began work on his Ninth Symphony—here in 1817; he’d previously written his Sixth Symphony (Pastorale) while staying in this then-rural district. He hoped the local spa would cure his worsening deafness. (Confusingly, the name “Heiligenstadt” is used for two different locations: this little neighborhood, and the big train and U-Bahn station near the river.)
Mayer am Pfarrplatz (a.k.a. Beethovenhaus), right next to the church, is famous, touristy, and feels more polished—almost trendy—compared to the other Heurigen I list. This place has a charming inner courtyard under cozy vines with an accordion player, along with a sprawling backyard with a big children’s play zone (Mon-Fri 16:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, Pfarrplatz 2, tel. 01/370-1287, pfarrplatz.at).
Weingut and Heuriger Werner Welser is a block uphill (go up Probusgasse). It’s big (serving large tour groups) and traditional, with dirndled waitresses and lederhosened waiters. It feels a bit crank-’em-out, but it’s still lots of fun, with music nightly from 19:00 (open daily 15:30-24:00, Probusgasse 12, tel. 01/318-9797, werner-welser.at).
Getting to the Heiligenstadt Heurigen: Take the U-4 line to its last station, Heiligenstadt, then transfer to bus #38A. Get off at Fernsprechamt/Heiligenstadt, walk uphill, and take the first right onto Nestelbachgasse, which leads to Pfarrplatz and the Beethovenhaus.
Vienna—the birthplace of what we call classical music—still thrives as Europe’s music capital. On any given evening, you’ll have your choice of opera, Strauss waltzes, Mozart chamber concerts, and lighthearted musicals. The Vienna Boys’ Choir lives up to its worldwide reputation.
Besides music, you can spend an evening enjoying art, watching a classic film, or sipping Viennese wine in a village wine garden. Save some energy for Vienna after dark.
As far back as the 12th century, Vienna was a mecca for musicians—both sacred and secular (troubadours). The Habsburg emperors of the 17th and 18th centuries were not only generous supporters of music, but fine musicians and composers themselves. (Maria Theresa played a mean double bass.) Composers such as Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert, Brahms, and Mahler gravitated to this music-friendly environment. They taught each other, jammed together, and spent a lot of time in Habsburg palaces. Beethoven was a famous figure, walking—lost in musical thought—through the Vienna Woods. In the city’s 19th-century belle époque, “Waltz King” Johann Strauss and his brothers kept Vienna’s 300 ballrooms spinning.
This musical tradition continues into modern times, leaving many prestigious Viennese institutions for today’s tourists to enjoy: the Opera, the Boys’ Choir, and the great Baroque halls and churches, all busy with classical and waltz concerts. As you poke into churches and palaces, you may hear groups practicing. You’re welcome to sit and listen.
For music lovers, Vienna is also an opportunity to make pilgrimages to the homes (now mostly small museums) of favorite composers. If you’re a fan of Schubert, Brahms, Haydn, Beethoven, or Mozart, there’s a sight for you. But I find these homes inconveniently located and generally underwhelming. The centrally located Haus der Musik (see here) is my favorite setting for celebrating the great musicians and composers who called Vienna home.
Vienna remains the music capital of Europe, with 10,000 seats in various venues around town mostly booked with classical performances. The best-known entertainment venues are the Staatsoper (a.k.a., “the Opera”), the Volksoper (for musicals and operettas), the Theater an der Wien (opera and other performances), the Wiener Musikverein (home of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra), and the Wiener Konzerthaus (various events). The events held in these places are listed in the monthly Wien-Programm (available at TI).
In Vienna, it’s music con brio from October through June, reaching a symphonic climax during the Vienna Festival each May and June. Sadly, in summer (generally July and August), the Boys’ Choir, Opera, and many other serious music companies are—like you—on vacation. But Vienna hums year-round with live classical music; touristy, crowd-pleasing shows are always available.
Buying Tickets: Most tickets run from €40 to €55 (plus a stiff booking fee when bought in advance or through a box office like the one at the TI). A few venues charge as little as €25; look around if you’re not set on any particular concert. While it’s easy to book tickets online long in advance, spontaneity is also workable, as there are invariably people selling their extra tickets at face value or less outside the door before concert time. If you call a concert hall directly, they can advise you on the availability of (cheaper) tickets at the door. Vienna takes care of its starving artists (and tourists) by offering cheap standing-room tickets to top-notch music and opera (generally an hour before each performance).
The boys sing (from a high balcony, heard but not seen) at the 9:15 Sunday Mass from September through June in the Hofburg’s Imperial Music Chapel (Hofmusikkapelle). The entrance is at Schweizerhof; you can get there from In der Burg square or go through the tunnel from Josefsplatz.
Reserved seats must be booked two months in advance (€5-29; reserve by fax, email, or mail: fax from the US 011-431-533-992-775, send email to office@hofburgkapelle.at, or write Wiener Hofmusikkapelle, Hofburg-Schweizerhof, 1010 Wien; call 01/533-9927 for information only—they can’t book tickets at this number; hofburgkapelle.at).
Much easier, standing room inside is free and open to the first 60 who line up. Even better, rather than line up early, you can simply swing by and stand in the narthex just outside, where you can hear the boys and see the Mass on a TV monitor.
Boys’ Choir concerts are also given Fridays at 16:00 in late April, May, June, September, and October on stage at the Musikverein, near the Opera and Karlsplatz (€36-56, around 30 standing-room tickets go on sale at 15:30 for €15, Karlsplatz 6; U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz; tel. 01/5880-4173).
They’re talented kids, but, for my taste, not worth all the commotion. Remember, many churches have great music during Sunday Mass. Just 200 yards from the Boys’ Choir chapel, the Augustinian Church has a glorious 11:00 service each Sunday (see here).
The Vienna State Opera (Staatsoper) puts on 300 performances a year, featuring the “Orchestra of the Opera” in the pit. (Any musician aspiring to join the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra must put in three years here before even being considered.) In July and August the singers rest their voices (or go on tour). Since there are different operas nearly nightly, you’ll see big trucks out back and constant action backstage—all the sets need to be switched each day. Even though the expensive seats normally sell out long in advance, the opera is perpetually in the red and subsidized by the state. The excellent “electronic libretto” translation screens help make the experience worthwhile for opera newbies. (Press the button to turn yours on; press again for English.)
Opera Tickets: Seats range from €8 to €168. You can book tickets in advance by phone (tel. 01/513-1513, phone answered daily 10:00-21:00) or online (wiener-staatsoper.at); you’ll give them your credit-card number, then pick up your tickets at the box office just before show time. If you want to inquire about tickets in person, head to the theater’s box office, which is open from 9:00 until one hour before each performance. The Opera has two ticket offices. The main one is on the west side of the building, across Operngasse and facing the Opera. A smaller one is just under the big screen on the east side of the Opera (facing Kärntner Strasse).
Unless Placido Domingo is in town, it’s easy to get one of 567 standing-room tickets (Stehplätze, €3 up top or €4 downstairs). While the front doors open one hour before the show starts, a side door (middle of building, on the Operngasse side) opens 80 minutes before curtain time, giving those in the know an early grab at standing-room tickets (tickets sold until 20 minutes after curtain time). Just walk straight in, then head right until you see the ticket booth marked Stehplätze. If fewer than 567 people are in line, there’s no need to line up early. If you’re one of the first 160 in line, try for the “Parterre” section and you’ll end up dead-center at stage level, directly under the Emperor’s Box (otherwise, you can choose between the third floor—Balkon, or the fourth floor—Galerie). Dress is casual (but do your best) at the standing-room bar. Locals save their spot along the rail by tying a scarf to it.
Rick’s Crude Tips: For me, three hours is a lot of opera. But just to see and hear the Opera in action for half an hour is a treat. You can buy a standing-room spot and just drop in for part of the show. Ending time is posted in the lobby—you could stop by for just the finale. If you go at the start or finish, you’ll get the added entertainment of seeing Vienna all dressed up. Of the 567 people with cheap standing-room tickets, invariably many will not stand through the entire performance. If you drop by after showtime, you can wait for people to leave and bum their tickets off them—be sure to ask them for clear directions to your spot. (While it’s perfectly legal to swap standing-room spots, be discreet if finding your spot mid-performance—try to look like you know where you’re going.) Even those with standing-room tickets are considered “ticket holders,” and are welcome to explore the building. As you leave, wander around the first floor (fun if skipping out early, when halls are empty) to enjoy the sumptuous halls (with prints of famous stage sets and performers) and the grand entry staircase. The last resort (and worst option) is to drop into the Café Oper Vienna and watch the performance live on TV screens (inside the Opera, reasonable menu and drinks).
“Live Opera on the Square”: Demonstrating its commitment to bringing opera to the masses, each spring and fall the Vienna Opera projects several performances live on a huge screen on its building, puts out chairs for the public to enjoy...and it’s all free. (These projected performances are noted as Oper live am Platz in the official Opera schedule—posted all around the Opera building; they are also listed in the Wien-Programm brochure.)
For less-serious operettas and musicals, try Vienna’s other opera house, located along the Gürtel, west of the city center (see Wien-Programm brochure or ask at TI for schedule, Währinger Strasse 78, tel. 01/5144-43670, volksoper.at).
Considered the oldest theater in Vienna, this venue was designed in 1801 for Mozart operas—intimate, with just a thousand seats. It treats Vienna’s music lovers to a different opera every month—generally Mozart with a contemporary setting and modern interpretation. Although Vienna now supports three opera companies, this is the only company playing through the summer (facing the Naschmarkt at Linke Wienzeile 6, tel. 01/5883-0200 for information, tickets available at theater-wien.at).
If the music comes to you, it’s touristy—designed for flash-in-the-pan Mozart fans. Powdered-wig orchestra performances are given almost nightly in grand traditional settings (€25-50). Pesky wigged-and-powdered Mozarts peddle tickets in the streets. They rave about the quality of the musicians, but you’ll get second-rate chamber orchestras, clad in historic costumes, performing the greatest hits of Mozart and Strauss. These are casual, easygoing concerts with lots of tour groups. While there’s not a Viennese person in the audience, the tourists generally enjoy the evening.
To sort through your options, check with the ticket office in the TI (same price as on the street, but with all venues to choose from). Savvy locals suggest getting the cheapest tickets, as no one seems to care if cheapskates move up to fill unsold pricier seats. Critics explain that the musicians are actually very good (often Hungarians, Poles, and Russians working a season here to fund an entire year of music studies back home), but that they haven’t performed much together so aren’t “tight.”
Of the many fine venues, the Mozarthaus might be my favorite. Intimate chamber-music concerts take place in a small room richly decorated in Venetian Renaissance style (€35-42, Thu-Fri at 19:30, Sat at 18:00, near St. Stephen’s Cathedral at Singerstrasse 7, tel. 01/911-9077, mozarthaus.at).
For years, Strauss concerts have been held in the Kursalon, the hall where the “Waltz King” himself directed wildly popular concerts 100 years ago (€40-60, concerts generally nightly at 20:15, tel. 01/512-5790 to check on availability—generally no problem to reserve—or buy online at soundofvienna.at). Shows last two hours and are a mix of ballet, waltzes, and a 15-piece orchestra. It’s touristy—tour guides holding up banners with group numbers wait out front after the show. Even so, the performance is playful, visually fun, fine quality for most, and with a tried-and-tested, crowd-pleasing format. The conductor welcomes the crowd in German (with a wink) and English; after that...it’s English only.
The Wien Ticket pavilion next to the Opera (near Kärntner Strasse) sells tickets to contemporary American and British musicals performed in German (€10-109). Same-day tickets are available at a 24 percent discount from 14:00 until 18:00 (ticket pavilion open daily 10:00-19:00). Or you can reserve (full-price) tickets for the musicals by phone (call Wien Ticket at tel. 01/58885).
To see free films of great concerts in a lively, outdoor setting near City Hall, see “Nightlife in Vienna,” later.
If you like to dance (waltz and ballroom), or watch people who are really good at it, consider the Dance Evening at the Tanz Café in the Volksgarten (€5-6, May-Aug Sun from 18:00, volksgarten.at).
St. Peter’s Church puts on free organ concerts weekdays at 15:00 and weekends at 20:00 (see here).
To bring home Beethoven, Strauss, or the Wiener Philharmonic on a top-quality CD, shop at Gramola on the Graben or EMI on Kärntner Strasse. The Arcadia shop at the Opera is also good.
If powdered wigs and opera singers in Viking helmets aren’t your thing, Vienna has plenty of alternatives. For an up-to-date rundown on fun after dark, check viennahype.at.
More than ever, Vienna has become a great place to just be out and about on a balmy evening. While tourists are attracted to the historic central district and its charming, floodlit corners, locals go elsewhere. Depending on your mood and taste, you can join them. Survey and then enjoy lively scenes with bars, cafés, trendy restaurants, and theaters in these areas: Donaukanal (the Danube Canal, especially popular in the summer for its imported beaches); Naschmarkt (after the produce stalls close up, the bars and eateries bring new life to the place through the evening; see here); MuseumsQuartier (surrounded by far-out museums, a young scene of bars with local students filling the courtyard; see here); and City Hall (on the park-like Rathausplatz, where in summer free concerts and a food circus of eateries attract huge local crowds—described next).
A thriving people scene erupts each evening in summer (July-Aug) at the park in front of City Hall (Rathaus, on the Ringstrasse). Thousands of people keep a food circus of 24 simple stalls busy. There’s not a plastic cup anywhere, just real plates and glasses—Vienna wants the quality of eating to be as high as the music that’s about to begin. About 2,000 folding chairs face a 60-foot-wide screen up against the City Hall’s Neo-Gothic facade. When darkness falls, an announcer explains the program, and then the music starts. The program is different every night—mostly movies of opera and classical concerts, with some films. The TI has the schedule (programs generally last about 2 hours, starting when it’s dark—between 21:30 in July and 20:30 in Aug).
Since 1991, the city has paid for 60 of these summer event nights each year. Why? To promote culture. Officials know that the City Hall Music Festival is mostly a “meat market” where young people come to hook up. But they believe many of these people will develop a little appreciation of classical music and high culture on the side.
Several great theaters offer three or four screens of English movies nightly (€6-9): Burg Kino, a block from the Opera, facing the Ring (see below), tapes its weekly schedule to the door—box office opens 30 minutes before each showing; English Cinema Haydn, near my recommended hotels on Mariahilfer Strasse (Mariahilfer Strasse 57, tel. 01/587-2262, haydnkino.at); and Artis International Cinema, right in the town center a few minutes from the cathedral (Schultergasse 5, tel. 01/535-6570).
This movie is set in 1949 Vienna—when it was divided, like Berlin, between the four victorious Allies. Reliving the cinematic tale of a divided city about to fall under Soviet rule and rife with smuggling is an enjoyable two-hour experience while in Vienna (€8, in English; 3-4 showings weekly—usually Friday evening, Sunday afternoon, and Tuesday early evening; Opernring 19, tel. 01/587-8406, burgkino.at).
Fans of the movie will enjoy a visit to the Third Man Museum (Dritte Mann Museum), the life’s work of two enthusiasts who have lovingly collected a vast collection of artifacts about the film, postwar Vienna, and the movie’s popularity around the world (€7.50, Sat only 14:00-18:00, or by appointment for Third Man nuts, private showings for groups, U4: Kettenbrückengasse, a long block south of the Naschmarkt at Pressgasse 25, tel. 01/586-4872, 3mpc.net).
As you move out from the middle of the city, hotel prices drop. My listings are in the old center (figure at least €100 for a decent double), along the likeable Mariahilfer Strasse (about €90), and near the Westbahnhof (about €70).
Book ahead for Vienna if you can, particularly for holidays. Business hotels have their highest rates in September and October, when it’s peak convention time. Prices are also high right around New Year’s Eve.
While few accommodations in Vienna are air-conditioned, you can generally get fans on request. Places with elevators often have a few stairs to climb, too. Viennese elevators can be confusing: In most of Europe, 0 is the ground floor, and 1 is the first floor up (our “second floor”). But in Vienna, elevators can also have floors P, U, M, and A before getting to 1—so floor 1 can actually be what we’d call the fifth floor.
For more tips on accommodations, see the “Sleeping” section in the Introduction.
You’ll pay extra to sleep in the atmospheric old center, but if you can afford it, staying here gives you the best classy Vienna experience.
$$$ Hotel am Stephansplatz is a four-star business hotel with 56 rooms. It’s plush but not over-the-top, and reasonably priced for its sleek comfort and incredible location facing the cathedral. Every detail is modern and quality; breakfast is superb, with a view of the city waking up around the cathedral; and the staff is always ready with a friendly welcome (Sb-€180, Db-€210-250, prices vary with season and room size, prices shoot up during conventions—most often in Sept-Oct; generally less Fri-Sun, July-Aug, and in winter; extra bed-€50, children stay for free or very cheap, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, gym and sauna, Stephansplatz 9, U-1 or U-3: Stephansplatz, tel. 01/534-050, hotelamstephansplatz.at, office@hotelamstephansplatz.at).
$$$ Hotel Pertschy, circling an old courtyard, is big and hotelesque. Its 56 huge rooms are elegantly creaky, with chandeliers and Baroque touches. Those on the courtyard are quietest (Sb-€95-114, Db-€140-170 depending on size, €20-30 cheaper off-season, extra bed-€36, non-smoking rooms, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Habsburgergasse 5, U-1 or U-3: Stephansplatz, tel. 01/534-490, pertschy.com, pertschy@pertschy.com).
$$$ Pension Aviano is a peaceful, family-run place. It has 17 comfortable rooms with flowery carpet and other Baroque frills, all on the fourth floor above lots of old-center action (Sb-€104, Db-€148-169 depending on size, roughly €20-30 cheaper per room in July-Aug and Nov-March, ask about discount if you book direct and mention Rick Steves, extra bed-€25-33, non-smoking, fans, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, between Neuer Markt and Kärntner Strasse at Marco d’Avianogasse 1, tel. 01/512-8330, secrethomes.at, aviano@secrethomes.at).
$$$ Hotel Schweizerhof is classy, with 55 big rooms, all the comforts, shiny public spaces, and a formal ambience. It’s centrally located midway between St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the Danube Canal (Sb-€85-100, Db-€120-160, low prices are for July-Aug and slow times, with cash and this book get your best price and ask about a Rick Steves discount, extra bed-€35, grand breakfast, elevator, Wi-Fi, Bauernmarkt 22, U-1 or U-3: Stephansplatz, tel. 01/533-1931, schweizerhof.at, office@schweizerhof.at). It can be noisy on weekends (Thu-Sat). If you’ll be here then, ask for a quiet room when you reserve.
$$$ Hotel zur Wiener Staatsoper, the Schweizerhof’s sister hotel, is quiet, with a more traditional elegance. Its 22 tidy rooms come with high ceilings, chandeliers, and fancy carpets on parquet floors (tiny Sb-€85-100, Db-€120-150, Tb-€135-175, rates depend on demand, extra bed-€25, fans on request, elevator, free Wi-Fi, a block from the Opera at Krugerstrasse 11; U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz; tel. 01/513-1274, zurwienerstaatsoper.at, office@zurwienerstaatsoper.at, manager Claudia).
$$ Pension A und A, a friendly nine-room B&B run by Andreas and Andrea, offers a sleek, mod break from crusty old Vienna. This place, wonderfully located just off the Graben, replaces Baroque doilies with contemporary style and blinding-white minimalist public spaces (Db-€100-150, air-con, Wi-Fi, Habsburgergasse 3, floor M, tel. 01/890-5128, aunda.at, office@aunda.at).
$$ At Pension Nossek, an elevator takes you above any street noise into Frau Bernad and Frau Gundolf’s world, where the children seem to be placed among the lace and flowers by an interior designer. With 32 rooms right on the wonderful Graben, this is a particularly good value (S-€52-60, Ss-€65, Sb-€85, Db-€125, €30 extra for sprawling suites, extra bed-€35, cash only, air-con, elevator, pay guest computer, Wi-Fi, Graben 17, U-1 or U-3: Stephansplatz, tel. 01/5337-0410, pension-nossek.at, reservation@pension-nossek.at).
$$ Pension Suzanne, as Baroque and doily as you’ll find in this price range, is wonderfully located a few yards from the Opera. It’s small, but run with the class of a bigger hotel. The 25 rooms are packed with properly Viennese antique furnishings and paintings (Sb-€88, Db-€106-136 depending on size, small discount with this book and cash, extra bed-€25, spacious apartment for up to 6 also available, discounts in winter, fans on request, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Walfischgasse 4; U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz and follow signs for Opera exit; tel. 01/513-2507, pension-suzanne.at, info@pension-suzanne.at, delightfully run by manager Michael).
$$ Schweizer Pension has been family-owned for four generations. Anita and her son Gerald offer lots of tourist info and 11 homey rooms for a great price, with parquet floors. True to its name, it feels very Swiss—tidy and well-run (S-€46-55, big Sb-€68-81, D-€68-79, Db-€89-98, Tb-€109-125, prices depend on season and room size, cash only, entirely non-smoking, elevator, Wi-Fi, laundry-€18/load, Heinrichsgasse 2, U-2 or U-4: Schottenring, tel. 01/533-8156, schweizerpension.com, schweizer. pension@chello.at). They also rent a quad with bath (€129-139—too small for 4 adults but great for a family of 2 adults/2 kids under age 15).
$$ Pension Neuer Markt is family-run, with 37 comfy but faded rooms in a perfectly central locale. Its hallways have the ambience of a cheap cruise ship (Ss-€70-80, Sb-€90-100, smaller Ds-€80-90, Db-€90-135, prices vary with season and room size, extra bed-€20, request a quiet room when you reserve, fans, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, Seilergasse 9, tel. 01/512-2316, hotelpension. at/neuermarkt, neuermarkt@hotelpension.at, Wolfgang).
$$ Pension Dr. Geissler has 23 plain-but-comfortable rooms in a modern, nondescript apartment building about 10 blocks northeast of St. Stephen’s, near the canal (S-€48, Ss-€68, Sb-€76, D-€65, Ds-€77, Db-€95, 20 percent less in winter, elevator, Postgasse 14, U-1 or U-4: Schwedenplatz—Postgasse is to the left as you face Hotel Capricorno, tel. 01/533-2803, hotelpension.at/dr-geissler, dr.geissler@hotelpension.at).
Lively Mariahilfer Strasse connects the Westbahnhof (West Station) and the city center. The U-3 line, starting at the Westbahnhof, goes down Mariahilfer Strasse to the cathedral. This tourist-friendly, vibrant area is filled with shopping malls, simpler storefronts, and cafés. Its smaller hotels and private rooms are generally run by people from the non-German-speaking part of the former Habsburg Empire (i.e., Eastern Europe). Most hotels are within a few steps of a U-Bahn stop, just one or two stops from the Westbahnhof (direction from the station: Simmering). The nearest place to do laundry is Schnell & Sauber Waschcenter (€4.50 to wash a small load or €9 for a large load, plus a few euros to dry, daily 6:00-23:00, a few blocks north of Westbahnhof on the east side of Urban-Loritz-Platz).
$$$ NH Atterseehaus Suites, part of a Spanish chain, is a stern, stylish-but-passionless business hotel on Mariahilfer Strasse. It rents ideal-for-families suites, each with a living room, two TVs, bathroom, desk, and kitchenette (rack rate: Db suite-€99-200, going rate usually closer to €110-125, €17/person for optional breakfast, apartments for 2-3 adults, 1 kid under 12 free, non-smoking rooms, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Mariahilfer Strasse 78, U-3: Zieglergasse, tel. 01/524-5600, nh-hotels.com, nhatterseehaus@nh-hotels.com).
$$ Hotel Pension Corvinus is bright, modern, and proudly and warmly run by a Hungarian family: Miklós, Judit, Anthony, and Zoltan. Its 12 comfortable rooms are spacious, and some are downright sumptuous (Sb-€69-79, Db-€99-109, Tb-€119-129, breakfast included for Rick Steves readers who book direct, extra bed-€26, also has apartments with kitchens, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking garage-€17/day, on the third floor at Mariahilfer Strasse 57-59, U-3: Neubaugasse, tel. 01/587-7239, corvinus.at, hotel@corvinus.at).
$$ Hotel Pension Mariahilf’s 12 rooms are clean, well-priced, and good-sized (if outmoded), with a slight Art Deco flair (Sb-€60-75, twin Db-€78-98, Db-€88-109, Tb-€99-139, 5-6-person apartment with kitchen-€129-169, lower prices are for Nov-Feb or longer stays, book direct and ask about Rick Steves discount, elevator, Wi-Fi, parking-€18/day, Mariahilfer Strasse 49, U-3: Neubaugasse, tel. 01/586-1781, mariahilf-hotel.at, info@mariahilf-hotel.at.
$$ K&T Boardinghouse rents spacious, comfortable, good-value rooms in two locations. The first has three bright and airy rooms three flights above lively Mariahilfer Strasse (no elevator). The second location, just across the street, is a bit more modern and spacious, with five units on the first floor (Db-€79, Tb-€99, Qb-€119, 2-night minimum, no breakfast, air-con-€10/day, cash only but reserve with credit card, coffee in rooms, guest computer, Wi-Fi; first location: Mariahilfer Strasse 72, second location: Chwallagasse 2; for either, get off at U-3: Neubaugasse; tel. 01/523-2989, mobile 0676-553-6063, ktboardinghouse.at, k.t@chello.at, Tina). To reach the Chwallagasse location from Mariahilfer Strasse, turn left at Café Ritter and walk down Schadekgasse one short block; tiny Chwallagasse is the first right.
$$ Haydn Hotel is big and formal, with masculine public spaces and 50 spacious rooms (Sb-€90, Db-€120, suites and family apartments, ask about Rick Steves discount, extra bed-€30, all rooms non-smoking, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-€15/day, Mariahilfer Strasse 57-59, U-3: Neubaugasse, tel. 01/5874-4140, haydn-hotel.at, info@haydn-hotel.at, Nouri).
$$ Hotel Kugel is run with pride and attitude. “Simple quality and good value” is the motto of the hands-on owner, Johannes Roller. It’s a big 32-room hotel with simple Old World charm, offering a fine value (Db-€90, supreme Db with canopy beds-€100, guest computer, Wi-Fi, some tram noise, Siebensterngasse 43, at corner with Neubaugasse, U-3: Neubaugasse, tel. 01/523-3355, hotelkugel.at, office@hotelkugel.at). Herr Roller also offers several cheaper basic rooms for backpackers.
$$ Hotel Admiral is huge and practical, with 80 large, workable rooms. This last resort is on a dreary street across from a rowdy nightclub (request a quiet room), and lacks the charm and personality of my other listings (Sb-€70, Db-€94, mention this book when you reserve, cheaper in winter, extra bed-€25, breakfast-€6/person, guest computer, Wi-Fi; limited free parking is first-come, first-served—otherwise €12/day; a block off Mariahilfer Strasse at Karl-Schweighofer-Gasse 7, U-2 or U-3: Volkstheater, tel. 01/521-410, admiral.co.at, hotel@admiral.co.at).
$ Pension Kraml is a charming, 17-room place tucked away on a small street between Mariahilfer Strasse and the Naschmarkt. It’s family-run and old school, with a typical 1950s-style Viennese breakfast room, no elevator, lots of stairs, big quiet homey rooms, and an Old-World elegance (D-€56, Ds or Dt-€66, Db-€76, extra bed-€23, family apartment available, Wi-Fi, midway between U-3: Zieglergasse and U-4: Pilgramgasse at Brauergasse 5, tel. 01/587-8588, pensionkraml.at, pension.kraml@chello.at).
$ Pension Hargita rents 19 generally small, bright, and tidy rooms (mostly twins) with Hungarian woody-village decor. While the pension is directly on bustling Mariahilfer Strasse, its windows block noise well. This spick-and-span, well-located place is a great value (S-€40, Ss-€47, Sb-€57, D-€54, Ds-€60, tiny Db-€65, Db-€68, Ts-€75, Tb-€82, Qb-€114, reserve with credit card but pay with cash to get these rates, extra bed-€12, breakfast-€5, completely non-smoking, lots of stairs and no elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, corner of Mariahilfer Strasse at Andreasgasse 1, U-3: Zieglergasse, tel. 01/526-1928, hargita.at, pension@hargita.at, Erika and Tibor).
$ Pension Lindenhof rents 19 very basic, very worn but clean rooms. It’s a dark and mysteriously dated time warp filled with plants (and a fun guest-generated postcard wall); the stark rooms have outrageously high ceilings and teeny bathrooms (S-€30, Sb-€35, D-€54, Db-€72, T-€81, Tb-€100, Q-€108, Qb-€144, cheaper during slow times, hall shower-€3, cash only, elevator, next door to a harmless strip bar at Lindengasse 4, U-3: Neubaugasse, tel. 01/523-0498, pensionlindenhof.at, pensionlindenhof@yahoo.com, run by Gebrael family).
$$ Motel One, a German chain that seems ready to take on the hotel world, surveyed business customers and offers only what they want to pay for. The result is what the chain calls a “low-budget design hotel”: 440 sleek and modern rooms, built cruise-ship tight with quality materials but no frills, 24-hour reception but minimal service, and refreshingly straightforward pricing (Sb-€72, Db-€87, no triples but you can slip in a child up to age 15 for free, breakfast-€7.50, free Wi-Fi in lounge and in room if you buy breakfast, air-con, attached to the Westbahnhof at Europaplatz 3, tel. 01/359-350, motel-one.com, wein-westbahnhof@motel-one.com).
$$ Hotel Ibis Wien, a modern high-rise hotel with American charm, is ideal for anyone tired of quaint old Europe. Its 340 cookie-cutter rooms are bright, comfortable, and modern, with all the conveniences (Sb-€69-75, Db-€87-93, Tb-€106, breakfast-€11, air-con, elevator, guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking garage-€13/day; exit Westbahnhof to the right and walk 400 yards, Mariahilfer Gürtel 22-24, U-3: Westbahnhof; tel. 01/59998, ibishotel.com, h0796@accor.com).
$ Pension Fünfhaus is big, plain, clean, and bare-bones—almost institutional—with tile floors. The neighborhood is run-down (with a few ladies loitering late at night), but this 47-room pension offers the best doubles you’ll find for the price (S-€34, Sb-€43, D-€49, Db-€60, Tb-€84-92, 4-person apartment-€104, cash only, closed mid-Nov-Feb, includes basic breakfast, Sperrgasse 12, U-3: Westbahnhof, tel. 01/892-3545 or 01/892-0286, pension5haus.at, vienna@pension5haus.at, Frau Susi Tersch). Half the rooms are in the main building and half are in the annex, which has good rooms but is near the train tracks and a bit scary on the street at night. From the station, ride tram #52 or #58 two stops down Mariahilfer Strasse away from center, and ask for Sperrgasse.
$ Hostel Wien is your classic huge and well-run youth hostel, with 260 beds (€17-21/person in 2- to 6-bed rooms, price depends on season, includes sheets and breakfast, nonmembers pay €3.50 extra, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi in lobby, always open, no curfew, lockers and lots of facilities, coin-op laundry, Myrthengasse 7, tel. 01/523-6316, hostel@chello.at).
$ Westend City Hostel, just a block from the Westbahnhof and Mariahilfer Strasse, is well-run and well-located in a residential neighborhood, so it’s quiet after 20:00. It has a small lounge and 180 beds in 4- to 12-bed dorms (€22-29/person depending on season and how many in the room, Db-€66-92, cheaper Nov-mid-March—except around New Year’s; includes sheets and locker, breakfast included when you book direct, cash only, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi, laundry-€7, Fügergasse 3, tel. 01/597-6729, westendhostel.at, info@westendhostel.at).
$ MOjOvie is a creative “little neighbourette,” combining a residential apartment feel with a hostel vibe. This network of apartments offers dorm beds as well as private units sleeping two to four (dorm bed-€20, €23-26/person in a private room with shared bathroom, €35-45/person for apartment with private bathroom, includes sheets and towels, cash only for charges under €100, free Wi-Fi, laundry service, shared kitchen, reception open 8:00-23:00, Kaiserstrasse 77, tram #5 or a 10-minute walk from Westbahnhof, mobile 0676-551-1155, mymojovie.at, accommodation@mymojovie.at).
$ More Hostels: Other hostels with €18-22 beds and €60-70 doubles near Mariahilfer Strasse are Wombat’s City Hostel (3 well-run locations—each with about 250 beds, 4-6 beds/room, lockers, bar, free Wi-Fi, and generous public spaces: one near tracks behind the station at Grangasse 6, another even closer to station at Mariahilfer Strasse 137, and one near the Naschmarkt at Rechte Wienzeile 35; tel. 01/897-2336, wombats-hostels.com, office@wombats-vienna.at) and Hostel Ruthensteiner (smoke-free; leave the Westbahnhof to the right and follow Mariahilfer Strasse behind the station, then left on Haidmannsgasse for a block, then turn right and find Robert-Hamerling-Gasse 24; tel. 01/893-4202, hostelruthensteiner.com, info@hostelruthensteiner.com).
If my top listings are full, here are some others to consider. Rates vary with the season and demand.
Near City Hall, the cordial Theaterhotel is a shiny gem of a hotel on a fun shopping street (Db-€110-190, Josefstädter Strasse 22, tel. 01-405-3648, cordial.at, chwien@cordial.at).
A stone’s throw from Stephensplatz, Hotel Domizil’s 40 rooms are light, bright, and neat as a pin (Db-€135-185, Schulerstrasse 14, tel. 01-513-3199, hoteldomizil.at, info@hoteldomizil.at).
A few steps from Schwedenplatz, Hotel Marc Aurel is an affordable, plain Jane business-class hotel with rare air-conditioning (Db-€99-159, Marc Aurel Strasse 8, tel. 01-533-5226, hotel-marcaurel.com, marcaurel@chello.at).
Just off Kärntner Strasse, Hotel Astoria is a turn-of-the-century Old World hotel with 128 classy rooms (Db-€105-225, Kärntner Strasse 32-34, tel. 01-515-771-00, austria-trend.at/hotel-astoria, reservierung.astoria@austria-trend.at).
The Viennese appreciate the fine points of life, and right up there with waltzing is eating. The city has many atmospheric restaurants (and many offer a “menu,” a fixed-price bargain meal, at lunchtime). As you ponder the Eastern European specialties on menus, remember that Vienna’s diverse empire may be no more, but its flavors linger.
While cuisines are routinely named for countries, Vienna claims to be the only city with a cuisine of its own: Vienna soups come with fillings (semolina dumpling, liver dumpling, or pancake slices). Gulasch is a beef ragout based on a traditional Hungarian shepherd’s soup (spiced with onion and paprika). Of course, Wiener schnitzel is traditionally a breaded and fried veal cutlet (though pork is more common these days). Another meat specialty is boiled beef (Tafelspitz). While you’re sure to have Apfelstrudel, try Topfenstrudel, too (wafer-thin strudel pastry filled with sweet cheese and raisins). The dag you see in some prices stands for “decigram” (10 grams). Therefore, 10 dag is 100 grams, or about a quarter-pound.
On nearly every corner, you can find a colorful Beisl (BYE-zul). These uniquely Viennese taverns are a characteristic cross between an English pub and a French brasserie—filled with poetry teachers and their students, couples loving without touching, housewives on their way home from cello lessons, and waiters who enjoy serving hearty food and drinks at an affordable price. Ask at your hotel for a good Beisl. (Beware: Despite non-smoking laws, Beisls may still be quite smoky; fortunately, most have outdoor seating.
For hardcore Viennese cuisine, drop by a Würstelstand. The local hot-dog stand is a fixture on city squares throughout the old center, serving a variety of hot dogs and pickled side dishes with a warm corner-meeting-place atmosphere. Be adventurous: Generally, the darker the weenie, the spicier it is. Key words: Weisswurst—boiled white sausage; Bosna—with onions and curry; Käsekrainer—with melted cheese inside; Debreziner—spicy Hungarian; Frankfurter—our weenie; frische—fresh; Kren—horseradish; and Senf—mustard (ask for süss—sweet, or scharf—sharp). Only a tourist puts the sausage in a bun like a hot dog. Munch alternately between the meat and the bread (“that’s why you have two hands”), and you’ll look like a native.
Two other don’t-miss Viennese institutions, its cafés and wine gardens, are covered under “Experiences in Vienna” on here.
(See “Restaurants in Central Vienna” map, here.)
Each of these eateries is within about a five-minute walk of the cathedral (U-1 or U-3: Stephansplatz).
Gigerl Stadtheuriger offers a fun, near-Heuriger wine cellar experience without leaving the city center. Just point to what looks good. Food is sold by the piece or weight; 100 grams (10 dag) is about a quarter-pound (cheese and cold meats cost about €3 per 100 grams, salads are about €2 per 100 grams; price sheet posted on wall to right of buffet line). The Karree pork with herbs is particularly tasty and tender. They also have entrées, spinach strudel, quiche, Apfelstrudel, and, of course, casks of new and local wines (sold by the Achtel, about 4 oz). Meals run €7-12 (daily 15:00-24:00, indoor/outdoor seating, behind cathedral, a block off Kärntner Strasse, a few cobbles off Rauhensteingasse on Blumenstock, tel. 01/513-4431).
Zu den Drei Hacken, another fun and typical Weinstube, is famous for its local specialties (€10 plates, Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00, closed Sun, indoor/outdoor seating, Singerstrasse 28, tel. 01/512-5895).
Buffet Trześniewski is an institution—justly famous for its elegant and cheap finger sandwiches and small beers (€1 each). Three different sandwiches and a kleines Bier (Pfiff) make a fun, light lunch. Point to whichever delights look tasty (or grab the English translation sheet and take time to study your 22 sandwich options). The classic favorites are Geflügelleber (chicken liver), Matjes mit Zwiebel (herring with onions), and Speck mit Ei (bacon and eggs). Pay for your sandwiches and a drink. Take your drink tokens to the lady on the right. Sit on the bench and scoot over to a tiny table when a spot opens up. Trześniewski has been a Vienna favorite for more than a century...and many of its regulars seem to have been here for the grand opening. You can grab an early quick dinner here, but the selection can get paltry by the end of the day (Mon-Fri 8:30-19:30, Sat 9:00-17:00, closed Sun; 50 yards off the Graben, nearly across from brooding Café Hawelka, Dorotheergasse 2; tel. 01/512-3291). In the fall, this is a good opportunity to try the fancy grape juices—Most or Traubenmost. Their other locations—at Mariahilfer Strasse 95 (near many recommended hotels, Mon-Fri 8:30-19:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun, U-3: Zieglergasse, tel. 01/596-4291) and in the Westbahnhof train station (near the tracks, Mon-Fri 7:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 8:00-23:00, U-3: Westbahnhof, tel. 01/982-2975)—serve the same sandwiches with the same menu but without the historic ambience.
Reinthaler’s Beisl is a time warp that serves simple, traditional Beisl fare all day. It’s handy for its location (a block off the Graben, across the street from Buffet Trześniewski) and because it’s a rare restaurant in the center that’s open on Sunday. Its fun, classic interior winds way back, and it also has a few tables on the quiet street outside (use the handwritten daily menu rather than the printed English one, €6-12 plates, daily 11:00-22:30, at Dorotheergasse 4, tel. 01/513-1249).
Cantinetta La Norma, a short walk from the cathedral, serves fresh, excellent Italian dishes amid a cozy, yet energetic ambience. Even on weeknights the small dining area is abuzz with friendly chatter among its multinational, loyal regulars (€8 pizzas and pastas, €7-18 entrées, lunch specials, daily 11:00-24:00, outdoor seating, Franziskaner Platz 3, tel. 01/512-8665, run by friendly Paco and Hany).
Gyros is a humble little Greek/Turkish joint run by Yilmaz, a fun-loving Turk from Izmir. He simply loves to feed people—the food is great, the prices are decent, and you almost feel like you took a quick trip to Istanbul (€8-12 plates, Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00, closed Sun, a long block off Kärntner Strasse at corner of Fichtegasse and Seilerstätte, mobile 0699-1016-3726).
Akakiko Sushi is a small chain of Japanese restaurants with an easy pan-Asian menu that’s worth considering if you’re just schnitzeled out. They serve sushi, of course, but also noodles, stir-fry, and other meals. The €11 bento box meals are a decent value. There are several convenient locations: Singerstrasse 4 (a block off Kärntner Strasse near the cathedral), Rotenturmgasse 6 (also near the cathedral), Heidenschuss 3 (near other recommended eateries just off Am Hof, U-3: Herrengasse), and Mariahilfer Strasse 42-48 (fifth floor of Kaufhaus Gerngross, near many recommended hotels, U-3: Neubaugasse). Though they lack charm, these are fast, modern, air-conditioned, and reasonable (€8-14 meals, all open daily 10:30-23:30).
Motto am Fluss Café and Restaurant is good for a bite or drink overlooking the Danube Canal. The modern, shipshape café and restaurant share space on a barge moored canal-side at Schwedenplatz just at the Schwedenbrücke (bridge). The café is upstairs (classy on the deck and inside, moderately priced simple meals from same fine kitchen as the restaurant, daily 8:00-24:00); the pricier restaurant is one floor down (indoor seating only but with great canal-perch tables, elegant with modern cuisine—€3 cover, €15-20 plates, extensive wine-by-the-glass list, €21-three-course specials always offer a vegetarian entrée, daily 11:30-14:30 & 18:00-24:00, tel. 01/252-5510, motto.at).
Ice Cream!: Zanoni & Zanoni is a very Italian gelateria run by an Italian family. They’re mobbed by happy Viennese hungry for their huge €2 cones to go. Or, to relax and watch the thriving people scene, lick your gelato in their fun outdoor area (daily 7:00-24:00, 2 blocks up Rotenturmstrasse from cathedral at Lugeck 7, tel. 01/512-7979). There’s another location behind the Kunsthistorisches Museum, facing the Ring (at Burgring 1, U-2 or U-3: Volkstheater/Museumsplatz).
The square called Am Hof (U-3: Herrengasse) is surrounded by a maze of atmospheric medieval lanes; the following eateries are all within a block of the square.
Zum Schwarzen Kameel Wine Bar (“The Black Camel”) is filled with a professional local crowd enjoying small plates from the same kitchen as their fancy restaurant, but at a better price. This is the place for horseradish and thin-sliced ham (Beinschinken mit Kren, €10/plate, Achtung—the horseradish is hot). Stand, grab a stool, find a table on the street, or sit anywhere you can—it’s customary to share tables in the wine-bar section. Fine Austrian wines are sold by the Achtel (eighth-liter glass) and listed on the board. They also have a buffet of tiny €1-2 sandwiches. Prices are the same inside or at their street-side outdoor tables (Mon-Sat 8:30-24:00, closed Sun, Bognergasse 5, tel. 01/533-8125, kameel.at).
For a splurge, the adjacent Zum Schwarzen Kameel Restaurant (same hours, phone, and address as the wine bar) is a tiny, elegant alternative. The dark-wood, 12-table, Art Nouveau restaurant serves fine gourmet Viennese cuisine (€36 three-course lunch, €80 four-course dinner, plus pricey wine).
Restaurant Ofenloch serves good, old-fashioned Viennese cuisine with formal service, both indoors and out. This 300-year-old eatery, with great traditional ambience, is dressy (with white tablecloths) but intimate and woodsy (€14 lunch specials; €15-19 main courses—meat, fish, and vegetarian; Mon-Sat 11:00-22:30, closed Sun, Kurrentgasse 8, tel. 01/533-8844, restaurant-ofenloch.at).
Brezel-Gwölb, a Tolkienesque wine cellar with outdoor dining on a quiet square, serves forgettable food in an unforgettable atmosphere. It’s ideal for a romantic late-night glass of wine (daily 11:30-23:30; leave Am Hof on Drahtgasse, then take first left to Ledererhof 9; tel. 01/533-8811, brezl.at).
Beisl zum Scherer, around the corner, is untouristy and serves traditional plates for €8-20. Sitting outside, you’ll face a stern Holocaust memorial. Inside comes with a soothing woody atmosphere and intriguing decor. It’s named for a pre-World War I satirical newspaper that was published here. Let friendly Sakis explain the daily specials—which don’t show up on the English menu (Mon-Sat 11:30-22:00, closed Sun, Judenplatz 7, tel. 01/533-5164, zumscherer.at).
Biobar von Antun Vegetarian Restaurant is a cheery and earthy little place with an €8 or €11 lunch special and hearty €10 salads, plenty of vegan options, and the fancy juices you’d expect (daily 12:00-23:00, on Judenplatz at Drahtgasse 3, tel. 01/968-9351).
Esterhazykeller, both ancient and popular, has traditional fare deep underground. For a cheap and sloppy buffet, climb down to the lowest level. This wine cellar, which dates back to 1683, comes with a hearty deli counter. While the food is self-serve (a meal-sized plate costs around €10), you’ll order drinks at your table. For table service from a pricier menu on a pleasant square, sit outside (Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:00-23:00, may close for lunch in Aug-Sept and/or in bad weather, just below Am Hof at Haarhof 1, tel. 01/533-3482).
The outdoor seating at Hopferl Bierhof on the same square might be a better option if it’s hot and you’re in the mood for a beer. It can offer a heartier value and nicer ambience (daily 11:30-24:00, Naglergasse 13, tel. 01/533-2641).
Julius Meinl am Graben, a posh supermarket with two floors of temptations right on the Graben, has been famous since 1862 as a top-end delicatessen with all the gourmet fancies. Assemble a meal from the picnic fixings on the shelves. There’s also a café, with light meals and great outdoor seating; a stuffy and pricey restaurant upstairs; and a take-out counter with good benches for people-watching while you munch (shop open Mon-Fri 8:00-19:30, Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun; restaurant open Mon-Sat until 24:00, closed Sun; Am Graben 19, tel. 01/532-3334).
(See “Restaurants in Central Vienna” map, here.)
These eateries are within easy walking distance of the Opera (U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz).
Café Restaurant Palmenhaus overlooks the Palace Garden (Burggarten—see here). Tucked away in a green and peaceful corner two blocks behind the Opera in the Hofburg’s backyard, this is a world apart. If you want to eat modern Austrian cuisine surrounded by palm trees rather than tourists, this is the place. And, since it’s at the edge of a huge park, it’s great for families. Their fresh fish with generous vegetables specials are on the board (€9 lunch plates available Mon-Fri, €15-18 entrées, open daily 10:00-24:00, serious vegetarian dishes, fish, extensive fine-wine list, indoors in greenhouse or outdoors, Burggarten 1, tel. 01/533-1033).
Soho Kantine is a grim, government-subsidized cantina serving the National Library and offering the best cheap, sit-down lunches in the Hofburg. Pay for your meal—your choice of bland meat or bland vegetarian—and a drink at the bar, take your token to the kitchen, and then sit down and eat with the locals (€6 two-course lunch, Mon-Fri 11:30-15:00, closed Sat-Sun and Aug, hard to find on ground floor of library—opposite the butterflies in a forlorn little square with no sign, Burggarten, Josefsplatz 1, tel. 01/532-8566, mobile 0676-309-5161).
Rosenberger Markt Restaurant is mobbed with tour groups. Still, if you don’t mind a freeway-cafeteria ambience in the center of the German-speaking world’s classiest city, this self-service eatery is fast and easy. It’s just a block toward the cathedral from the Opera. The best cheap meal here is a small salad or veggie plate stacked high (daily 10:30-23:00, lots of fruits, veggies, fresh-squeezed juices, addictive banana milk, ride the glass elevator downstairs, Maysedergasse 2, tel. 01/512-3458).
Kurkonditorei Oberlaa may not have the royal and plush fame of Demel (see here), but this is where Viennese connoisseurs serious about the quality of their pastries go to get fat. With outdoor seating on Neuer Markt, it’s particularly nice on a hot summer day. Upstairs has more temptations and good seating (€10 daily three-course lunches, great selection of cakes, daily 8:00-20:00, Neuer Markt 16, other locations about town, including the Naschmarkt, tel. 01/5132-9360).
Le Bol Patisserie Bistro (next to Oberlaa) satisfies your need for something French. The staff speaks to you in French, serving fine €8 salads, baguette sandwiches, and fresh croissants (Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, Neuer Markt 14).
Billa Corso is a top-end member of the Billa supermarket chain. This location sells hot gourmet ready-made foods (by weight) with its restaurant partner called Henry. You’re welcome to sit and enjoy whatever you’ve purchased in either eating area: inside (air-conditioned) and out on the square. They also have a great deli selection of salads, soups, and picnic items (warm food €1.80/100 grams, WC on ground floor, Mon-Sat 8:00-20:00, closed Sun, Neuer Markt 17, on the corner where Seilergasse hits Neuer Markt, tel. 01/961-2133).
Danieli Ristorante is your best classy Italian bet in the old town. White-tablecloth dressy, but not stuffy, it has reasonable prices. Dine in their elegant back room or on the street (€13-18 pizzas and pastas, €18-25 main courses, fresh fish specialties, daily 10:00-24:00, 30 yards off Kärntner Strasse opposite Neuer Markt at Himmelpfortgasse 3, tel. 01/513-7913, danieli.at).
(See “Restaurants in Central Vienna” map, here.)
During the summer, scores of outdoor food stands and hundreds of picnic tables are set up in the park in front of the City Hall (Rathausplatz). Local mobs enjoy mostly ethnic meals for decent-but-not-cheap prices and classical entertainment on a big screen. The fun thing here is the energy of the crowd and a feeling that you’re truly eating as the Viennese do...not schnitzel and quaint traditions, but trendy “world food” with young people out having fun in a fine Vienna park setting (July-Aug daily from 11:00 until late, in front of City Hall on the Ringstrasse, U-2: Rathaus).
(See “Restaurants in Central Vienna” map, here.)
Justizcafe, the cafeteria serving Austria’s Supreme Court of Justice, offers a fine view, great prices, and a memorable lunchtime experience—even if the food is somewhat bland. Enter the Palace of Justice through its grand front door, pass through tight security (no guns), say “wow” to the Historicist architecture in the courtyard, and ride the elevator to the rooftop. You can sit behind the windows inside or dine outside on the roof, enjoying one of the best views of Vienna while surrounded by legal beagles—go early or late to miss the crush (€8-12 main dishes, Mon-Fri 11:00-14:30, closed Sat-Sun, Schmerlingplatz 10, U-2 or U-3: Volkstheater/Museumsplatz, mobile 0676-755-6100).
Spittelberg has a rare-in-Vienna Prague-like ambiance. Most of the city’s architecture dates from 1880 to 1910, when the population exploded. But the Spittelberg quarter dates from before 1880. This charming cobbled grid of traffic-free lanes and Biedermeier apartments has become a favorite neighborhood for Viennese wanting a little dining charm between the MuseumsQuartier and Mariahilfer Strasse (handy to many recommended hotels; take Stiftgasse from Mariahilfer Strasse, or wander over here after you close down the Kunsthistorisches Museum; U-2 or U-3: Volkstheater/Museumsplatz). Tables tumble down sidewalks and into breezy courtyards filled with appreciative natives enjoying dinner or a relaxing drink. It’s only worth the trip on a balmy summer evening, as it’s dead in bad weather. Stroll Spittelberggasse, Schrankgasse, and Gutenberggasse, then pick your favorite. Don’t miss the vine-strewn wine garden at Schrankgasse 1. To locate these restaurants, see the map on here.
Amerlingbeisl, with a charming, casual atmosphere both on the cobbled street and in its vine-covered courtyard, is a great value, serving a mix of traditional Austrian and international dishes (always a €7 vegetarian daily special, other specials for €6-10, €9-14 dinners, daily 9:00-2:00 in the morning, Stiftgasse 8, tel. 01/526-1660).
Zu Ebener Erde und Erster Stock (“Downstairs, Upstairs”) is a charming little restaurant with a near-gourmet menu. True to its name, it has two distinct eating zones (with the same menu): a casual, woody bistro downstairs (traditionally the quarters of the poor); and a fancy Biedermeier-style dining room with red-velvet chairs and violet tablecloths upstairs (where the wealthy convened). There are also a few al fresco tables out front. Reservations are smart (€10-19 main dishes, €25 traditional three-course fixed-price meal, seasonal specials, Mon-Fri 7:30-21:30, last seating at 20:00, closed Sat-Sun, Burggasse 13, tel. 01/523-6254).
Witwe Bolte is classy and a good choice for uninspired Viennese cuisine with tablecloths. The interior is tight, but its tiny square has wonderful leafy ambience (€11-17 main dishes, daily 11:30-23:30 except closed 15:00-17:30 mid-Jan-mid-March, Gutenberggasse 13, tel. 01/523-1450, witwebolte.at).
Plutzer Bräu, next door to Amerlingbeisl, feels a bit more touristy. It’s a big, sprawling, impersonal brewpub serving stick-to-your-ribs pub grub (€7-9 vegetarian dishes, €9-20 meals, ribs, burgers, traditional dishes, Tirolean beer from the keg, also brew their own, daily 11:00-late, food until 24:00, Schrankgasse 4, tel. 01/526-1215).
Glacis Beisl, located at the top edge of the MuseumsQuartier just before Spittelberg, is popular with locals. Tucked away in a gravelly wine garden atop a city fortification, it’s particularly appealing on a balmy evening, when locals fill the rickety outdoor tables to enjoy good €15 plates and the breezy ambience (daily 11:00-24:00, Breitegasse 4, tel. 01/526-5660, glacisbeisl.at).
Mariahilfer Strasse (see map on here) is filled with reasonable cafés serving all types of cuisine. For a quick yet traditional bite, consider the venerable Buffet Trześniewski sandwich bar at Mariahilfer Strasse 95.
Schnitzelwirt is an old classic with a 1950s patina and a clientele to match. In this smoky, working-class place, no one finishes their schnitzel (“to-go” for the dog is wrapped in newspaper, “to-go” for you is wrapped in foil). You’ll find no tourists, just cheap €6-11 schnitzel meals (Mon-Sat 10:00-23:00, closed Sun, Neubaugasse 52, U-3: Neubaugasse, tel. 01/523-3771).
For a picnic or a trendy dinner, try the Naschmarkt, Vienna’s sprawling produce market. This thriving Old World scene comes with plenty of fresh produce, cheap local-style eateries, cafés, kebab and sausage stands, and the best-value sushi in town (Mon-Fri 6:00-18:30, Sat 6:00-17:00, closed Sun, closes earlier in winter; U-1, U-2, or U-4: Karlsplatz, follow Karlsplatz signs out of the station). Picnickers can buy supplies at the market and eat on nearby Karlsplatz (plenty of chairs facing the Karlskirche) or pop into the Burggarten behind the famous Mozart statue.
In recent years, the Naschmarkt has become fashionable for dinner (or cocktails), with an amazing variety of local and ethnic eateries to choose from. Prices are great, the produce is certainly fresh, and the dinners are as local as can be. The best plan: Stroll through the entire market to survey the many options, and then pick the place that appeals. For more on the Naschmarkt, see here.
Remember, Vienna has several train stations, the biggest of which are undergoing an extensive renovation. Be sure you know which station your train departs from; see here for the basic rundown, but always confirm locally. For general train information in Austria, call 051-717 (to get an operator, dial 2, then 2), or visit oebb.at. Purchase tickets at the station or at most travel agencies.
From Vienna by Train to: Salzburg (3/hour, 2.5-3 hours), Hallstatt (hourly, 4 hours, change in Attnang-Puchheim), Innsbruck (almost hourly, 5 hours), Budapest (every 2 hours direct, 3 hours; more with transfers; may be cheaper by Orange Ways bus: 3-4/day, 3 hours, orangeways.com), Prague (6/day direct, 4.75 hours; more with 1 change, 5-6 hours; 1 night train, 6 hours), Munich (6/day direct, 4.25 hours; otherwise about hourly, 5-5.75 hours, transfer in Salzburg or Plattling), Berlin (9/day, most with 1 change, 9.5 hours, some via Czech Republic; longer on night train), Zürich (nearly hourly, 9-10 hours, 1 with changes in Innsbruck and Feldkirch, night train), Ljubljana (1 convenient early-morning train, 6 hours; otherwise 7/day with change in Villach, Maribor, or Graz, 6-7 hours), Kraków (5/day, 8—10.5 hours with 1-3 changes, plus a night train), Rome (3/day, 12-13 hours, plus several overnight options), Venice (3/day, 8-9.5 hours with changes—some may involve bus connection; plus 1 direct night train, 12 hours), Frankfurt (6/day direct, 7 hours; plus 1 direct night train, 10 hours), Paris (7/day, 12-13 hours, 1-3 changes), Amsterdam (2/day, 11-12 hours, 1-2 changes).
To Prague and Budapest: Vienna is the springboard for a quick trip to these two magnificent cities—it’s three hours by train to Budapest and about five hours to Prague (including a Prague night train, leaves Westbahnhof around 22:00). Americans and Canadians do not need visas to enter the Czech Republic or Hungary.
Vienna International Airport, 12 miles from the center, has easy connections to Vienna’s various train stations. As you exit baggage claim, all of the terminals lead into a single arrivals hall with an array of services: shops, ATMs, TI, and restaurants. This is also where you’ll find various connections (airport code: VIE, airport tel. 01/700-722-233, viennaairport.com).
Two different trains transport airport passengers into Vienna. Both go to the same point in the city center: the Wien-Mitte Bahnhof, on the east side of the Ring (adjacent to the Landstrasse U-Bahn stop, with a handy connection to Mariahilfer Strasse hotels and other accommodations neighborhoods). The main differences between them are time and cost. The S-Bahn commuter train (S-7 yellow line) works just fine and is plenty fast (€4, 2/hour, 24 minutes, buy 2-zone ticket from machines on the platform, price includes any bus or S- or U-Bahn transfers). The fast CAT (City Airport Train) takes a third less time but costs triple (€12, €13.50 includes a ride to your final destination on Vienna’s transit system, 2/hour, usually departs at :05 and :35, 16 minutes, cityairporttrain.com).
Convenient express airport buses go to various points in Vienna: Morzinplatz/Schwedenplatz U-Bahn station (for city-center hotels), Westbahnhof (for Mariahilfer Strasse hotels), and Wien-Meidling Bahnhof. To reach these buses from the arrivals hall, go outside and to your left (note destination and times on curbside TV monitors; €8, 2/hour, generally 30 minutes, buy ticket from driver, tel. 0810-222-333 for timetable info, postbus.at).
The 30-minute ride into town by taxi costs about €35-40 (including the €11 airport surcharge).
Bratislava Airport is six miles northeast of downtown Bratislava (letiskobratislava.sk). The airport offers budget flights on low-cost carriers Ryanair (ryanair.com) and Danube Wings (danubewings.eu). Some airlines market it as “Vienna-Bratislava,” thanks to its proximity to both capitals. To reach Vienna, you can take a Eurolines bus to the Erdberg stop of Vienna’s U-3 subway line. A taxi directly to Vienna costs €60-90 (depending on whether you use a cheaper Slovak or more expensive Austrian cab).