Commune with nature in the Salzkammergut, Austria’s Lake District. “The hills are alive,” and you’re surrounded by the loveliness that has turned on everyone from Emperor Franz Josef to Julie Andrews. This is Sound of Music country. Idyllic and majestic, but not rugged, it’s a gentle land of lakes, forested mountains, and storybook villages, rich in hiking opportunities and inexpensive lodging. Settle down in the postcard-pretty, lake-cuddling town of Hallstatt. While there are plenty of lakes and charming villages in the Salzkammergut, Hallstatt is really the only one that matters.
Hallstatt serves as a relaxing break between Vienna and Salzburg. One night and a few hours to browse are all you’ll need to fall in love. To relax or take a hike in the surroundings, give it two nights and a day.
Lovable Hallstatt (HAHL-shtaht) is a tiny town bullied onto a ledge between a selfish mountain and a swan-ruled lake, with a waterfall ripping furiously through its middle. It can be toured on foot in about 15 minutes. Salt veins in the mountain rock drew people here centuries before Christ. The symbol of Hallstatt, which you’ll see all over town, consists of two adjacent spirals—a design based on jewelry found in Bronze Age Celtic graves high in the nearby mountains.
Hallstatt has two parts: the tightly packed medieval town center (which locals call the Markt) and the newer, more car-friendly Lahn, a few minutes’ walk to the south. A lakeside promenade connects the old center to the Lahn. The tiny “main” boat dock (a.k.a. Market Dock), where boats from the train station arrive, is in the old center of town. Another boat dock is in the Lahn, next to Hallstatt’s bus stop and grocery store.
The charms of Hallstatt are the village and its lakeside setting. Come here to relax, nibble, wander, and paddle. While tourist crowds can trample much of Hallstatt’s charm in August, the place is almost dead in the off-season. The lake is famous for its good fishing and pure water.
At the helpful TI, Teresa and the other staff can explain hikes and excursions, and find you a room (July-Aug Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-15:00; Sept-June Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Sat-Sun; one block from Market Square, across from museum at Seestrasse 169, tel. 06134/8208, dachstein-salzkammergut.at).
In the summer, the TI offers 1.5-hour walking tours of the town in English and German (€4, mid-May-Sept Sat at 10:00). They can also arrange private tours (€95), or you can use an audioguide to explore (€5, €50 deposit).
By Train: If you’re coming on the main train line that runs between Salzburg and Vienna, you’ll change trains at Attnang-Puchheim to get to Hallstatt (you won’t see Hallstatt on the schedules, but any train to Ebensee and Bad Ischl will stop at Hallstatt). Day-trippers can check their bags at the Attnang-Puchheim station (follow signs for Schliessfächer, coin-op lockers are at the street, curbside near track 1, €2-3.50/24 hours). Note: Connections can be fast—check the TV monitor.
Hallstatt’s train station is a wide spot on the tracks across the lake from town. Stefanie (a boat) meets you at the station and glides scenically across the lake to the old town center (€2.40, meets each train until 18:50—don’t arrive after that, hallstattschifffahrt.at). The last departing boat-train connection leaves Hallstatt at 18:15, and the first boat goes in the morning at 6:50 (8:50 Sat-Sun).
Once in Hallstatt, walk left from the boat dock for the TI; you’re steps away from the hotels in the old center and a 15-minute walk from accommodations in the Lahn.
By Bus: Hallstatt’s bus stop is by the boat dock in the Lahn. It takes 15 minutes to walk from the bus stop into the old center along the lakeside path.
By Car: The main road skirts Hallstatt via a long tunnel above the town. Gates close off traffic to the old center during the daytime. As you approach town, electronic signs direct you to available spots in three parking areas. If you are staying at a hotel in the old town, drive to lot P1 (€9/day, reserved for hotel guests). Choose “Hotelticket” at the gate when you enter and hang onto your ticket—you’ll need it when you leave. To reach your hotel, go to the Hotel-Shuttle Info-Point in the lot, tell the attendant (or the intercom) where you’re staying, and hop on the free shuttle, which will drop you at or near your hotel. You can also use this shuttle when you depart; ask your hotelier for details. When you leave the lot, pay at the machine. (If you’re staying at one of my recommended accommodations in the Lahn, you can park right at the hotel—all have free parking.)
If you’re day-tripping, head to one of the other parking areas. P2 is a shorter walk to the old town center (€7/3-12 hours; hallstatt.net/parking-in-hallstatt/cars).
Internet Access: Try Hallstatt Umbrella Bar (€4/hour, summers only, weather permitting—since it’s literally under a big umbrella, halfway between the old center and the Lahn along the lake at Seestrasse 145). For free Wi-Fi, drop by the café at the recommended Heritage Hotel.
Laundry: The staff of the campground in the Lahn will wash and dry (but not fold) your clothes for €8/load (drop off mid-April-mid-Oct daily 8:00-10:00 & 16:00-18:00, pick up in afternoon or next morning, closed off-season, tel. 06134/83224). In the center, the recommended Hotel Grüner Baum does laundry for non-guests (€13/load, on Market Square).
Boat Rental: Two places rent electric boats; both rent from two locations in high season. Riedler is next to the main boat dock and 75 yards past Bräugasthof (€13/hour, tel. 06134/20619). Hemetsberger is near Gasthof Simony and by the Lahn boat dock (€12/hour, tel. 06134/8228). Both are open daily until 19:00 in peak season and in good weather. Boats have two speeds: slow and stop. Spending an extra €3/hour gets you a faster, 500-watt boat. Both places also rent rowboats and paddleboats (slightly cheaper).
Dirndl Rental: If you feel compelled to re-enact the Sound of Music, Dirndl to Go rents authentic versions of these traditional dresses by the hour (€22/first hour, €6/hour after that, May-Oct Wed-Sun 13:00-18:00, closed Mon-Tue and Nov-April, Badergraben 189, tel. 06503/666503, dirndl-to-go.at, Claudia).
Parks and Swimming: Green and peaceful lakeside parks line the south end of Lake Hallstatt. If you walk 15 minutes south of the old center to the Lahn, you’ll find a grassy public park, playground, mini-golf, and swimming area (Badestrand) with the fun Badeinsel play-island.
Views: For a great view over Hallstatt, hike above the recommended Helga Lenz B&B as far as you like, or climb any path leading up the hill. The 40-minute steep hike down from the salt-mine tour gives the best views (see “Sights in Hallstatt,” later). While most visitors stroll the lakeside drag between the old and new parts of town, make a point to do the trip once by taking the more higgledy-piggledy high lane called Dr.-Morton-Weg.
(See “Hallstatt” map, here.)
• This short walk starts at the dock.
Boat Landing: There was a Hallstatt before there was a Rome. In fact, because of the importance of salt mining here, an entire epoch—the Hallstatt Era, from 800 to 400, B.C.—is named for this important spot. Through the centuries, salt was traded and people came and went by boat. You’ll still see the traditional Fuhr boats, designed to carry heavy loads in shallow water.
Towering above the town is the Catholic church. Its faded St. Christopher—patron saint of travelers, with his cane and baby Jesus on his shoulder—watched over those sailing in and out. Until 1875, the town was extremely remote...then came a real road and the train. The good ship Stefanie shuttles travelers back and forth from here to the Hallstatt train station, immediately across the lake. The Bootverleih sign advertises boat rentals. By the way, Schmuck is not an insult...it means jewelry.
Notice the one-lane road out of town (below the church). Until 1966, when a bigger tunnel was built above Hallstatt, all the traffic crept single-file right through the town.
Look down the shore at the huge homes. Several families lived in each of these houses, back when Hallstatt’s population was about double its present 1,000. Today, the population continues to shrink, and many of these generally underused houses rent rooms to visitors.
Hallstatt gets about three months of snow each winter, but the lake hasn’t frozen over since 1981. See any swans? They’ve patrolled the lake like they own it since the 1860s, when Emperor Franz Josef and Empress Sisi—the Princess Diana of her day—made this region their annual holiday retreat. Sisi loved swans, so locals made sure she’d see them here. During this period, the Romantics discovered Hallstatt, many top painters worked here, and the town got its first hotel (now the Heritage Hotel).
Tiny Hallstatt has two big churches: Protestant (bordering the square on the left, with a grassy lakeside playground) and Catholic (up above, with its fascinating bone chapel).
• Walk over the town’s stream, and pop into the...
Protestant Church: The Catholic Counter-Reformation was very strong in Austria, but pockets of Protestantism survived, especially in mining towns like Hallstatt. In 1860, Emperor Franz Josef finally allowed non-Catholic Christians to build churches. Before that, they were allowed to worship only in low-key “houses of prayer.” In 1863, Hallstatt’s miners pooled their humble resources and built this fine church. Step inside (free and often open). It’s very plain, emphasizing the pulpit and organ rather than fancy art and saints. Check out the portraits: Martin Luther (left of altar), the town in about 1865 with its new church (left wall), and a century of pastors.
• Continue past the church to the...
Market Square (Marktplatz): In 1750, a fire leveled this part of town. The buildings you see now are all late 18th-century structures built of stone rather than flammable wood. The three big buildings on the left are government-subsidized housing (mostly for seniors and people with health problems). Take a close look at the two-dimensional, up-against-the-wall pear tree (it likes the sun-warmed wall). The statue features the Holy Trinity.
• Continue a block past Gasthof Simony. At the first corner, just before the Gemeindeamt (City Hall), jog left across the little square and then right down the tiny lane marked Am Hof, which leads through an intimate bit of domestic town architecture, boat houses, lots of firewood, and maybe a couple of swans hanging out. The lane circles back to the main drag and the...
Museum Square: Because 20th-century Hallstatt was of no industrial importance, it was untouched by World War II. But once upon a time, its salt was worth defending. High above, peeking out of the trees, is Rudolfsturm (Rudolf’s Tower). Originally a 13th-century watchtower protecting the salt mines, and later the mansion of a salt-mine boss, it’s now a restaurant with a great view. A zigzag trail connects the town with Rudolfsturm and the salt mines just beyond. The big, white houses by the waterfall were water-powered mills that once ground Hallstatt’s grain. (If you hike up a few blocks, you’ll see the river raging through town.)
Around you are the town’s TI, post office, museum, City Hall, and Dachstein Sport Shop (described later). A statue recalls the mine manager who excavated prehistoric graves in about 1850. Much of the Schmuck sold locally is inspired by the jewelry found in the area’s Bronze Age tombs.
The memorial wooden stairs in front of the museum are a copy of those found in Hallstatt’s prehistoric mine—the original stairs are more than 2,500 years old. For thousands of years, people have been leaching salt out of this mountain. A brine spring sprung here, attracting Bronze Age people in about 1600 B.C. Later, they dug tunnels to mine the rock (which was 70 percent salt), dissolved it into a brine, and distilled out the salt—precious for preserving meat. For a look at early salt-mining implements and the town’s story, visit the museum (described later).
Across from the TI, Pension Hallberg has a quirky hallway full of Nazi paraphernalia and other stuff found on the lake bed (€1). Only recently did local divers realize that, for centuries, the lake had been Hallstatt’s garbage can. If something was kaputt, locals would just toss it into the lake. In 1945, Nazi medals decorating German and Austrian war heroes suddenly became dangerous to own. Throughout the former Third Reich, hard-earned medals floated down to lonely lake beds, including Hallstatt’s.
Under the TI is the “Post Partner”—a government-funded attempt to turn inefficient post offices into something more viable (selling souvenirs, renting bikes, and employing people with disabilities who otherwise wouldn’t work). The Fischerei provides the town with its cherished fresh lake fish. The county allows two commercial fishermen on the lake. They spread their nets each morning and sell their catch here to town restaurants, or to any locals cooking up a special dinner (Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00, closed Sat-Sun).
• Nearby, still on Museum Square, find the...
Dachstein Sport Shop: During a renovation project, the builders dug down and hit a Celtic and ancient Roman settlement. Peek through the glass pavement on the covered porch to see where the Roman street level was. If the shop is open, pop in and go downstairs (free). You’ll walk on Roman flagstones and see the small gutter that channeled water to power an ancient hammer mill (used to pound iron into usable shapes). In prehistoric times, people lived near the mines. Romans were the first Hallstatt lakeside settlers. The store’s owners are committed to sharing Hallstatt’s fascinating history, and often display old town paintings and folk art.
• From this square, the first right (after the bank) leads up a few stairs to...
Dr.-Morton-Weg: House #26A dates from 1597. Follow the lane uphill to the left past more old houses. Until 1890, this was the town’s main drag, and the lake lapped at the lower doors of these houses. Therefore, many main entrances were via the attic, from this level. Enjoy this back-street view of town. Just after the arch, near #133, check out the old tools hanging outside the workshop, and the piece of wooden piping. It’s a section taken from the 25-mile wooden pipeline that carried salt brine from Hallstatt to Ebensee. This was in place from 1595 until the last generation, when the last stretch of wood was replaced by plastic piping. At the pipe, enjoy the lake view and climb down the stairs. From lake level, look back up at the striking traditional architecture (the fine woodwork on the left was recently rebuilt after a fire; parts of the old house on the right date to medieval times).
• Your tour is finished. From here, you have boat rentals, the salt-mine tour, the town museum, and the Catholic church (with its bone chapel) all within a few minutes’ walk.
▲▲Catholic Church and Bone Chapel
▲▲Dachstein Mountain Cable Car and Caves
Giant Ice Caves (Riesen-Eishöhle)
Summer Luge Rides (Sommerrodelbahnen)
on the Hallstatt-Salzburg Road
Hallstatt’s Catholic church overlooks the town from above. The lovely church has twin altars. The one on the left was made by town artists in 1897. The one on the right is more historic—dedicated in 1515 to Mary, who’s flanked by St. Barbara (on right, patron of miners) and St. Catherine (on left, patron of foresters—a lot of wood was needed to fortify the many miles of tunnels, and to boil the brine to distill the salt).
Behind the church, in the well-tended graveyard, is the 12th-century Chapel of St. Michael (even older than the church). Its bone chapel—or charnel house (Beinhaus)—contains more than 600 painted skulls. Each skull has been lovingly named, dated, and decorated (skulls with dark, thick garlands are oldest—18th century; those with flowers are more recent—19th century). Space was so limited in this cemetery that bones had only 12 peaceful, buried years here before making way for the freshly dead. Many of the dug-up bones and skulls ended up in this chapel. They stopped this practice in the 1960s, about the same time the Catholic Church began permitting cremation. But one woman (who died in 1983) managed to sneak her skull in later (dated 1995, under the cross, with the gold tooth). The skulls on the books are those of priests.
Cost and Hours: €1.50, free English flier, daily May-Sept 10:00-18:00, Oct 10:00-16:00, closed Nov-April, tel. 06134/8279.
Getting There: From near the main boat dock, hike up the covered wooden stairway and follow the Kath. Kirche signs.
This pricey but high-quality museum tells the story of Hallstatt. It focuses on the Hallstatt Era (800-400 B.C.), when this village was the salt-mining hub of a culture that spread from France to the Balkans. Back then, Celtic tribes dug for precious salt, and Hallstatt was, as its name means, the “place of salt.” The highlight of the museum is the countless number of artifacts excavated from prehistoric gravesites around the mine. The museum also offers a five-minute 3-D movie and 26 displays on everything from the region’s flora and fauna to local artists and the surge in Hallstatt tourism during the Romantic Age. Everything is labeled in English, and the ring binders have translations of the longer texts.
Cost and Hours: €7.50, May-Sept daily 10:00-18:00, shorter hours off-season, closed Mon-Tue Nov-March, adjacent to TI at Seestrasse 56, tel. 06134/828-015, museum-hallstatt.at. On Thursdays in summer, when candlelit boats run, the museum stays open until 20:00 (see “Nightlife in Hallstatt,” later).
For a quick boat trip, you can ride the Stefanie across the lake and back for €4.80. It stops at the tiny Hallstatt train station for 30 minutes (note return time in the boat’s window), giving you time to walk to a hanging bridge (ask the captain to point you to the Hängebrücke—HENG-eh-brick-eh—a 10-minute lakeside stroll to the left). Longer lake tours are also available (€9/50 minutes, €10/75 minutes, sporadic schedules—especially off-season—so check chalkboards by boat docks for today’s times). Those into relaxation can rent a sleepy electric motorboat to enjoy town views from the water.
If you have yet to tour a salt mine, consider visiting Hallstatt’s, which claims to be the oldest in the world. The presentation is very low-tech, as the mining company owns all three mine tours in the area and sees little reason to invest in the experience when they can simply mine the tourists. Still, it gives an interesting look at mining through the centuries and culminates with a fun banister slide.
Cost and Hours: €24 combo-ticket includes mine and funicular round-trip, €18 for mine tour only, €2 audioguide (leave ID as deposit), buy all tickets at funicular station—note the time and tour number on your ticket, daily May-mid-Sept 9:00-16:00, mid-Sept-Oct 9:00-14:30, later funicular departures miss the last tour of the day, closed Nov-April, no children under age 4, arrive early or late to avoid summer crowds, tel. 06132/200-2400, salzwelten.at.
Funicular: You can also just take the funicular without going on the mine tour (€7 one-way, €12 round-trip, 4/hour, daily May-mid-Sept 9:00-18:00, mid-Sept-Oct 9:00-16:30, closed Nov-April). The funicular starts in the Lahn, close to the bus stop and Lahn boat dock.
Visiting the Mine: After riding the funicular above town, you’ll hike 10 minutes to the mine (past excavation sites of many prehistoric tombs and a glass case with 2,500-year-old bones—but there’s little to actually see). Report to the mine 10 minutes before the tour time on your ticket, check your bag, and put on old miners’ clothes. Then hike 200 yards higher in your funny outfit to meet your guide, who escorts your group down a tunnel dug in 1719.
Inside the mountain, you’ll watch a slide show, follow your guide through several caverns as you learn about mining techniques over the last 7,000 years, see a silly laser show on a glassy subterranean lake, peek at a few waxy cavemen with pickaxes, and ride the train out. The highlight for most is sliding down two banisters (the second one is longer and ends with a flash for an automatic souvenir photo that clocks your speed—see how you did compared to the rest of your group after the tour).
While the tour is mostly in German, the guide is required to speak English if you ask...so ask. Be sure to dress for the constant 47-degree temperature.
Returning to Hallstatt: If you skip the funicular down, the steep and scenic 40-minute hike back into town is (with strong knees) a joy. At the base of the funicular, notice the train tracks leading to the Erbstollen tunnel entrance. This lowest of the salt tunnels goes many miles into the mountain, where a shaft connects it to the tunnels you just explored. Today, the salty brine from these tunnels flows 25 miles through the world’s oldest pipeline—made of wood until quite recently—to the huge modern salt works (next to the highway) at Ebensee.
Mountain lovers, hikers, and spelunkers who use Hallstatt as their home base keep busy for days (ask the TI for ideas). A good, short, and easy walk is the two-hour round-trip up the Echern Valley to the Waldbachstrub waterfall and back: From the parking lot, follow signs to the salt mines, then follow the little wooden signs marked Echerntalweg. With a car, consider hiking around nearby Altaussee (flat, 3-hour hike) or along Grundlsee to Toplitzsee. Regular buses connect Hallstatt with Gosausee for a pleasant hour-long walk around that lake. Or consider walking nine miles halfway around Lake Hallstatt via the town of Steeg (boat to train station, walk left along lake and past idyllic farmsteads, returning to Hallstatt along the old salt trail, Soleleitungsweg); for a shorter hike, walk to Steeg along either side of the lake, and catch the train from Steeg back to Hallstatt’s station. The TI can also recommend a great two-day hike with an overnight in a nearby mountain hut.
The best two bike rides take nearly the same routes as the hikes listed previously: up the Echern Valley and around the lake (bikers do better going via Obertraun along the lakeside bike path—start with a ride on the Stefanie). There’s no public bike rental in Hallstatt, but some hotels have loaner bikes for guests.
From Obertraun, three miles beyond Hallstatt on the main road (or directly across the lake as the crow flies), a cable car glides up to the Dachstein Plateau. Along the way, you can hop off to tour two different caves: the refreshingly chilly Giant Ice Caves and the less-impressive Mammoth Caves.
Getting to Obertraun: The cable car to Dachstein leaves from the outskirts of Obertraun. To reach the cable car from Hallstatt, the handiest and cheapest option is the bus (€1.70, 5-6/day, leaves from Lahn boat dock, drops you directly at cable-car station). Romantics can take the boat from Hallstatt’s main boat dock to Obertraun (€5.50, 5/day July-Aug, 3/day in June and Sept, 30 minutes, hallstattschifffahrt.at)—but it’s a 40-minute hike from there to the lift station. The impatient can consider hitching a ride—virtually all cars leaving Hallstatt to the south will pass through Obertraun in a few minutes.
Returning to Hallstatt: Plan to leave by mid-afternoon. The last bus from the cable-car station back to Hallstatt (at 17:05 in summer) inconveniently leaves before the last cable car down—if you miss the bus, try getting a ride from a fellow cable-car passenger. Otherwise, you can either call a taxi (€13, ask cable-car staff for help) or walk back along the lakefront (about one hour).
From Obertraun, this mighty gondola goes in three stages high up the Dachstein Plateau—crowned by Dachstein, the highest mountain in the Salzkammergut (9,800 ft). The first segment stops at Schönbergalm (4,500 ft, runs May-late Oct), which has a mountain restaurant and two huge caves (described later). The second segment goes to the summit of Krippenstein (6,600 ft, runs mid-May-late Oct). The third segment descends to Gjaidalm (5,800 ft, runs mid-June-late Oct), where several hikes begin.
For a quick high-country experience, Krippenstein is better than Gjaidalm. Its “five-fingers” viewpoint features metal walkways that extend out from the mountain (not for the faint of heart). From Krippenstein, you get 360-degree views of the surrounding mountains and a good look at the scrubby, limestone, karstic landscape (which absorbs, through its many cracks, the rainfall that ultimately carves all those caves).
Cost and Hours: €26, last cable car back down usually at about 17:00, tel. 06131/50140, dachstein-salzkammergut.com.
Cable Car and Caves Combo-Tickets: Several combo-tickets are available for the cable car and caves. The round-trip cable-car ride to Schönbergalm, including entrance to one of the caves, is €27. The €33 combo-ticket includes the cable car and entry to both caves. If you’re gung-ho enough to want to visit both caves and ride the cable car farther up the mountain, the €39 same-day, all-inclusive ticket makes sense (covers the cable car all the way to Gjaidalm and back, as well as entry to both caves). Cheaper family rates are available.
Located near the Schönbergalm cable-car stop (4,500 ft), these caves were discovered in 1910. Today, guides lead tours in German and English on an hour-long, half-mile hike through an eerie, icy, subterranean world, passing limestone canyons the size of subway stations.
At the Schönbergalm lift station, report to the ticket window to get your cave appointment. Drop by the little free museum near the lift station—in a local-style wood cabin designed to support 200 tons of snow—to see the cave-system model, exhibits about its exploration, and info about life in the caves. Then hike 10 minutes from the station up to the cave entry. The temperature is just above freezing, and although the 700 steps help keep you warm, you’ll want to bring a sweater. The limestone caverns, carved by rushing water, are named for scenes from Wagner’s operas—the favorite of the mountaineers who first came here. If you’re nervous, note that the iron oxide covering the ceiling takes 5,000 years to form. Things are very stable. Allow 1.5 hours total from the station.
Cost and Hours: €27 includes cable car, various combo-tickets available (described earlier), open May-late Oct, hour-long tours start at 9:20, last tour at 15:30, stay in front and assert yourself to get English information, tel. 06131/50140.
While huge and well-promoted, these are much less interesting than the ice caves and—for most—not worth the time. Of the 30-mile limestone labyrinth excavated so far, you’ll walk a half-mile with a German-speaking guide.
Cost and Hours: €27 includes cable car, various combo-tickets available (described earlier), open May-late Oct, hour-long tours in English and German 10:15-14:30, entrance a 10-minute hike from lift station.
If you’re driving between Salzburg and Hallstatt, you’ll pass two luge rides operated by the same company (rodelbahnen.at). Each is a ski lift that drags you backward up the hill as you sit on your go-cart. At the top, you ride the cart down the winding metal course. It’s easy: Push to go, pull to stop, take your hands off your stick and you get hurt.
Each course is just off the road with easy parking. The ride up and down takes about 15 minutes. The one in Fuschl am See (closest to Salzburg, look for Sommerrodelbahn sign) is half as long and cheaper (1,970 ft). The one in Strobl near Wolfgangsee (look for Riesenschutzbahn sign) is a double course, and more scenic with grand lake views (4,265 ft, each track is the same speed).
Cost and Hours: Fuschl am See—4.30/ride, €30/10 rides, tel. 06226/8452; Strobl—€6.40/ride, €45/10 rides, tel. 06137/7085; courses open May-Oct 10:00-18:00 but generally close in bad weather.
Locals would laugh at the thought. But if you want some action after dinner, you do have a few options: Gasthaus zur Mühle is a youth hostel with a rustic sports-bar ambience in its restaurant when drinks replace the food (open late, closed Tue Sept-mid-May, run by Ferdinand). Or, for your late-night drink, savor the Market Square from the trendy little pub called Ruth Zimmermann, where locals congregate with soft music, a good selection of drinks, two small rooms, and tables on the square (daily May-Sept 10:00-2:00 in the morning, Oct-April 11:00-2:00, mobile 0664/501-5631). From late July to late August, candlelit boat rides leave at 20:30 on Thursday evenings (€13.50, €16 combo-ticket with Hallstatt Museum).
Hallstatt’s TI can almost always find you a room (either in town or at B&Bs and small hotels outside of town—which are more likely to have rooms available and come with easy parking). If you are arriving by car and have a reservation for a place in the old town, head directly to parking lot P1, where you’ll catch a shuttle to your hotel (see here).
Mid-July and August can be tight. Early August is worst. Hallstatt is not the place to splurge—some of the best rooms are in Gästezimmer, just as nice and modern as rooms in bigger hotels, at half the cost. In summer, a double bed in a private home costs about €50 with breakfast. It’s hard to get a one-night advance reservation (try calling the TI for help). But if you drop in and they have a spot, one-nighters are welcome. Prices include breakfast, lots of stairs, and a silent night. “Zimmer mit Aussicht?” (TSIM-mer mit OWS-zeekt) means “Room with view?”—worth asking for. Unlike many businesses in town, the cheaper places don’t take credit cards.
As most rooms here are in old buildings with well-cared-for wooden interiors, dripping laundry is a no-no at Hallstatt pensions. Be especially considerate when hanging laundry over anything but tile—if you must wash larger clothing items here, ask your host about using their clothesline.
$$$ Heritage Hotel, next to the main boat dock, is the town’s fanciest place to stay. It has 34 rooms with modern furnishings in a lakeside main building with an elevator; uphill are another 20 rooms in two separate buildings for those willing to climb stairs for better views (Sb-€150, Db-€209, free sauna, free cable Internet in rooms and Wi-Fi in lobby, laundry service-€13, Landungsplatz 120, tel. 06134/20036, hotel-hallstatt.com, info@hotel-hallstatt.com).
$$$ Hotel Grüner Baum, on the other side of the church from the main boat dock, has a great location, fronting Market Square and overlooking the lake in back. The owner, Monika, moved here from Vienna and renovated this stately—but still a bit creaky—old hotel with urban taste. Its 22 rooms are huge, each with a separate living area and ancient hardwood floors, but you may not need so much space and the high price that comes with it (suite-like Db-€140-210, price depends on view, show this book and ask for Rick Steves discount, family rooms, Internet access in restaurant, laundry service-€13, closed in Nov, 20 yards from boat dock, tel. 06134/82630, gruenerbaum.cc, contact@gruenerbaum.cc).
$$$ Bräugasthof Hallstatt is like a museum filled with antique furniture and ancient family portraits. This former brewery, now a good restaurant, rents eight clean, cozy upstairs rooms. It’s run by Virena and her daughter, Virena. Six of the rooms have gorgeous little lakeview balconies (Sb-€65, Db-€105, Tb-€155, just past TI along lake at Seestrasse 120, tel. 06134/8221, brauhaus-lobisser.com, info@brauhaus-lobisser.com, Lobisser family).
$$$ Gasthof Zauner is run by a friendly mountaineer, Herr Zauner, whose family has owned it since 1893. The 13 pricey, pine-flavored rooms near the inland end of Market Square are decorated with sturdy alpine-inspired furniture (sealed not with lacquer but with beeswax, to let the wood breathe out its calming scent). Lederhosen-clad Herr Zauner recounts tales of local mountaineering lore, including his own impressive ascents (Sb-€63, Db-€108, lakeview Db-€116, cheaper mid-Oct-April, Internet access in office, closed Nov-early Dec, Marktplatz 51, tel. 06134/8246, zauner.hallstatt.net, zauner@hallstatt.at).
$$$ Gasthof Simony is a well-worn, grandmotherly, 12-room place on the square, with a lake view, balconies, ancient beds, creaky wood floors, slippery rag rugs, antique furniture, and a lakefront garden for swimming. Reserve in advance, and call if arriving late (S-€45, D-€65, Ds-€70, Db-€105, third person-€20 extra, cash only, free Wi-Fi in lobby, kayaks for guests, Marktplatz 105, tel. 06134/8231, gasthof-simony.at, info@gasthof-simony.at, Susanna Scheutz and family).
$$ Pension Sarstein is a big, flower-bedecked house right on the water on the edge of the old center. Its seven renovated rooms are bright, and all have lakeview balconies. You can swim from its plush and inviting lakeside garden (D-€55, Db-€70, Tb-€90; apartments with kitchen: Db-€65, Tb-€90, Qb-€100, apartment prices don’t include breakfast; €3 extra per person for 1-night stay, cash only, free Wi-Fi in lobby, 200 yards to the right of the main boat dock at Gosaumühlstrasse 83, tel. 06134/8217, pension-sarstein.at.tf, pension.sarstein@aon.at, helpful Isabelle and Klaus Fischer).
$$ Gasthof Pension Grüner Anger, in the Lahn near the bus station and base of the funicular, is practical and modern. It’s big and quiet, with 11 rooms and no creaks or squeaks. There are mountain views, but none of the lake (Sb-€43-48, Db-€76-90, third person-€20, price depends on season, non-smoking, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, free loaner bikes, free parking, Lahn 10, tel. 06134/8397, anger.hallstatt.net, anger@aon.at, Sulzbacher family). If arriving by train, have the boat captain call Herr Sulzbacher, who will pick you up at the dock. They run a good-value restaurant, too, with discounts for guests.
$ Helga Lenz rents two fine Zimmer a steep five-minute climb above Dr.-Morton-Weg (look for the green Zimmer sign). This large, sprawling, woodsy house has a nifty garden perch, wins the “Best View” award, and is ideal for those who sleep well in tree houses and don’t mind the steps up from town (Db-€52, Tb-€78, €2 more per person for one-night stay, cash only, family room, closed Nov-March, Hallberg 17, tel. 06134/8508, hallstatt.net/lenz, haus-lenz@aon.at).
$ Two Gästezimmer are a few minutes’ stroll south of the center, just past the bus stop/parking lot and over the bridge. Haus Trausner has three clean, bright, new-feeling rooms adjacent to the Trausner family home (Ds/Db-€50, 2-night minimum for reservations, cash only, breakfast comes to your room, free parking, Lahnstrasse 27, tel. 06134/8710, trausner1@aon.at, charming Maria Trausner makes you want to settle right in). Herta Höll rents out three spacious, modern rooms on the ground floor of her riverside house crawling with kids (Db-€50, apartment for up to five-€60-90, €2 more per person for one-night stay, cash only, free parking, free cable Internet, Salzbergstrasse 45, tel. 06134/8531, frank.hoell@aon.at).
$ Hostel: Gasthaus zur Mühle Jugendherberge, below the waterfall and along the gushing town stream, has 46 of the cheapest good beds in town (bed in 3- to 8-bed coed dorms-€16, twin D-€32, family quads, sheets-€4 extra, breakfast-€6, big lockers with a €15 deposit, free Wi-Fi, closed Nov, reception closed Tue Sept-mid-May—so arrange in advance if arriving on Tue, below P1 tunnel parking lot, Kirchenweg 36, tel. 06134/8318, toeroe-f@hallstatturlaub.at, Ferdinand Törö). It’s also popular for its great, inexpensive pizza (described later).
(See “Hallstatt” map, here.)
In this town, when someone is happy to see you, they’ll often say, “Can I cook you a fish?” While everyone cooks the typical Austrian fare, fish is your best bet here. Reinanke (whitefish) is caught wild out of Lake Hallstatt and served the same day. Saibling (lake trout) is also tasty and costs less. You can enjoy good food inexpensively, with delightful lakeside settings. Restaurants in Hallstatt tend to have unreliable hours and close early on slow nights, so don’t wait too long to get dinner. Most of the eateries listed here are run by recommended hotels.
Restaurant Bräugasthof, on the edge of the old center, is a good value. The indoor dining room is cozy in cool weather. On a balmy evening, its great lakeside tables offer the best ambience in town—you can feed the swans while your trout is being cooked (€10-20 main courses, daily May-Oct 11:30-late, closed Nov-April, Seestrasse 120, tel. 06134/8221).
Hotel Grüner Baum is a more upscale option, with elegant (and often slow) service at tables overlooking the lake inside and out (€15-25 main courses, daily Dec-Oct 8:00-22:00, closed Nov, at bottom of Market Square, tel. 06134/8263, gruener-baum.at).
Gasthof Simony’s Restaurant am See serves Austrian cuisine on yet another gorgeous lakeside terrace, as well as indoors (€12-16 main courses, Thu-Tue 11:30-20:00, until 21:00 June-Sept and on winter weekends, closed Wed, tel. 06134/20646).
Gasthaus zur Mühle serves the best pizza in town. Chow down cheap and hearty here with fun-loving locals and the youth-hostel crowd. Note that smoking is allowed here (€8 pizza, lots of Italian, some Austrian, Wed-Mon in summer 16:00-21:00, closed Tue, Kirchenweg 36, tel. 06134/8318, Ferdinand).
Pizzeria Bella Milano, in the Lahn area, is a local favorite and a good option after visiting the salt mines or going swimming. To-go meals are available if you want to eat by the lake. They serve mainly pizzas and Italian dishes, along with some Austrian options (€7-10 main courses, daily 11:00-22:00, Lahn 41, tel. 06134/20037).
Picnics and Cheap Eats: The Zauner bakery/butcher/grocer, great for picnickers, makes fresh sandwiches to go (Tue-Fri 7:00-12:00 & 15:00-18:00, Sat and Mon 7:00-12:00, closed Sun, uphill to the left from Market Square). The only supermarket is Konsum, in the Lahn at the bus stop (Mon-Fri 7:30-12:00 & 15:00-18:00, Sat 7:30-12:00, closed Sun, July-Aug no midday break and until 17:00 on Sat, Sept-April closed Wed). Snack stands near the main boat dock and the Lahn boat dock sell Döner Kebab and so on for €3 (tables and fine lakeside picnic options nearby).
From Hallstatt by Train: Most travelers leaving Hallstatt are going to Salzburg or Vienna. In either case, you need to catch the shuttle boat (€2.40, departs 15 minutes before every train) to the little Hallstatt train station across the lake, and then ride 1.5 hours to Attnang-Puchheim (hourly from about 7:00 to 18:00). Trains are synchronized, so after a short wait in Attnang-Puchheim, you’ll catch your onward connection to Salzburg (50 minutes) or Vienna (2.5 hours). The Hallstatt station has no staff or ticket machines, but you can buy tickets from the conductor without a penalty. In town, your hotel or the TI can help you find schedule information, or check oebb.at. Train info: tel. 051-717 (to get an operator, dial 2, then 2).
By Bus to Salzburg: The bus ride from Hallstatt to Salzburg is cheaper and more scenic than the train, and only slightly slower. You can still start off from Hallstatt by rail, taking the boat across the lake to the station and then the train toward Attnang-Puchheim—but get off after about 20 minutes in Bad Ischl, where you catch bus #150 to Salzburg (€8.80, Mon-Fri almost hourly, less Sat-Sun).
Alternatively, you can reach Bad Ischl by bus from the Hallstatt bus stop (€4.20, change in Gosaumühle) and then catch bus #150 to Salzburg. The Hallstatt TI has a schedule. In Salzburg, bus #150 stops at Hofwirt and Mirabellplatz (convenient to Linzergasse hotels) before ending at the Salzburg train station.