Map: Bruges Accommodations near the Center
Bars Offering Light Meals, Beer, and Ambience
With pointy gilded architecture, stay-a-while cafés, vivid time-tunnel art, and dreamy canals dotted with swans, Bruges is a heavyweight sightseeing destination, as well as a joy. Where else can you ride a bike along a canal, munch mussels and wash them down with the world’s best beer, savor heavenly chocolate, and see Flemish Primitives and a Michelangelo, all within 300 yards of a bell tower that jingles every 15 minutes? And do it all without worrying about a language barrier?
The town is Brugge (BROO-ghah) in Dutch, and Bruges (broozh) in French and English. Its name comes from the Viking word for wharf. Right from the start, Bruges was a trading center. In the 11th century, the city grew wealthy on the cloth trade.
By the 14th century, Bruges’ population was 35,000, as large as London’s. As the middleman in the sea trade between northern and southern Europe, it was one of the biggest cities in the world and an economic powerhouse. In addition, Bruges had become the most important cloth market in northern Europe.
In the 15th century, while England and France were slugging it out in the Hundred Years’ War, Bruges was the favored residence of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy—and at peace. Commerce and the arts boomed. The artists Jan van Eyck and Hans Memling had studios here.
But by the 16th century, the harbor had silted up and the economy had collapsed. The Burgundian court left, Belgium became a minor Habsburg possession, and Bruges’ Golden Age abruptly ended. For generations, Bruges was known as a mysterious and dead city. In the 19th century, a new port, Zeebrugge, brought renewed vitality to the area. And in the 20th century, tourists discovered the town.
Today, Bruges prospers because of tourism: It’s a uniquely well-preserved Gothic city and a handy gateway to Europe. It’s no secret, but even with the crowds, it’s the kind of place where you don’t mind being a tourist.
Bruges’ ultimate sight is the town itself, and the best way to enjoy it is to get lost on the back streets, away from the lace shops and ice-cream stands.
Bruges needs at least two nights and a full, well-organized day. Even nonshoppers enjoy browsing here, and the Belgian love of life makes a hectic itinerary seem a little senseless. With one day—other than a Monday, when the Groeninge and Memling museums are closed—a speedy visitor could do the Bruges blitz described below:
| 9:30 | Climb the bell tower on the Markt (Market Square). |
| 10:00 | Tour the sights on Burg Square. |
| 11:30 | Tour the Groeninge Museum. |
| 13:00 | Eat lunch and buy chocolates. |
| 14:00 | Take a short canal cruise. |
| 14:30 | Visit the Church of Our Lady and see Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child. |
| 15:00 | Tour the Memling Museum. |
| 16:00 | Catch the De Halve Maan Brewery tour (note that on winter weekdays, their last tour runs at 15:00). |
| 17:00 | Relax in the Begijnhof courtyard. |
| 18:00 | Ride a bike around the quiet back streets of town or take a horse-and-buggy tour. |
| 20:00 | Enjoy the low light of magic hour on the Markt, then lose the tourists and find dinner elsewhere. |
If this schedule seems insane, skip the bell tower and the brewery—or stay another day.
The tourist’s Bruges—and you’ll be sharing it—is less than one square mile, contained within a canal (the former moat). Nearly everything of interest and importance is within a convenient cobbled swath between the train station and the Markt (Market Square; a 20-minute walk). Many of my quiet, charming, recommended accommodations lie just beyond the Markt.
The main TI, called In&Uit (“In and Out”), is in the big, red concert hall on the square called ’t Zand (daily 10:00-18:00, take a number from the touch-screen machines and wait, ’t Zand 34, tel. 050-444-646, brugge.be). They have three terminals with free Internet access and printers. The other TI is at the train station (Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-14:00).
The TIs sell the €2.50 Love Bruges Visitors’ Guide, which comes with a map (costs €0.50 if bought separately), a few well-described self-guided walking tours, and listings of all the sights and services (free with Brugge City Card). You can also pick up a free monthly English-language program called events@brugge, and information on train schedules and tours (see “Tours in Bruges,” later). Many hotels give out free maps with more detail than the map the TIs sell. The TI also has a free “Use-It” map available for young-at-heart travelers—filled with tips for backpackers and well worth asking for.
By Train: Bruges’ train station is what all stations under construction aspire to: in a clean, park-like setting, where travelers step out the door and are greeted by a taxi stand and a roundabout with center-bound buses circulating through every couple minutes. Coming in by train, you’ll see the bell tower that marks the main square (Markt, the center of town). Upon arrival, stop by the train station TI to pick up the Love Bruges Visitors’ Guide (with map). The station has ATMs and lockers (€3-4).
The best way to get to the town center is by bus. Buses #1, #3, #4, #6, #11, #13, #14, and #16 go to the Markt (all marked Centrum). Simply hop on, pay €2 (€1.20 if you buy in advance at Lijnwinkel shop just outside the train station), and you’re there in four minutes (get off at third stop—either Markt or Wollestraat). Buses #4 and #14 continue to the northeast part of town (to the windmills and recommended accommodations on and near Carmersstraat, stop: Gouden Handstraat). If you arrive after 20:30, when the daytime bus routes end, you can still take the bus, but the “evening line” buses run much less frequently (buses marked Avondlijn Centrum, Avondlijn Noord—#91, Avondlijn Oost—#92, and Avondlijn Zuid—#93 all go to the Markt).
The taxi fare from the train station to most hotels is about €8.
It’s a 20-minute walk from the station to the center—no fun with your luggage. If you want to walk to the Markt, cross the busy street and canal in front of the station, head up Oostmeers, and turn right on Zwidzandstraat. You can rent a bike at the station for the duration of your stay, but other bike-rental shops are closer to the center (see “Helpful Hints,” later).
By Car: Park in front of the train station in the handy two-story garage for just €3.50 for 24 hours. The parking fee includes a round-trip bus ticket into town and back for everyone in your car. There are pricier underground parking garages at the square called ’t Zand and around town (€9/day, all of them well-marked). Paid parking on the street in Bruges is limited to four hours. Driving in town is very complicated because of the one-way system. The best plan for drivers: Park at the train station, visit the TI at the station, and rent a bike or catch a bus into town.
Blue Monday: In Bruges, nearly all museums are open Tuesday through Sunday year-round from 9:30 to 17:00 and are closed on Monday. If you’re in Bruges on a Monday, the following attractions are open: bell-tower climb on the Markt, Begijnhof, De Halve Maan Brewery Tour, Basilica of the Holy Blood, City Hall’s Gothic Room, chocolate shops and museum, and Church of Our Lady. You can also join a boat, bus, or walking tour, or rent a bike and pedal into the countryside.
Museum Passes: The ’t Zand TI and city museums sell a “Museumpas” combo-ticket (any five museums for €20, valid for 3 days). Because the Groeninge and Memling museums cost €8 each, art lovers will save money with this pass. The Brugge City Card is a more extensive pass covering entry to 26 museums, including all the major sights (€35/48 hours, €40/72 hours, sold at TIs and many hotels). If you’ll be doing some serious sightseeing, this card can save you money. Its long list of bonuses and discounts includes a free canal boat ride (March-Nov), a visitors’ guide, and discounts on bike rental, parking, and some performances.
Market Days: Bruges hosts markets on Wednesday morning (on the Markt) and Saturday morning (’t Zand). On good-weather Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays, a flea market hops along Dijver in front of the Groeninge Museum. The Fish Market sells souvenirs daily and seafood Wednesday through Saturday mornings until 13:00.
Shopping: Shops are generally open from 10:00 to 18:00 and closed Sundays. Grocery stores usually are closed on Sunday. The main shopping street, Steenstraat, stretches from the Markt to ’t Zand Square. The Hema department store is at Steenstraat 73. FNAC, the electronics/department store for all your needs, is on the Markt. There’s a good travel bookstore (which carries my guidebooks) at #12 on the Markt.
Internet Access: There are three free terminals at the TI on ’t Zand. Call Shop, just a block off the Markt, is the most central of the city’s many “telephone shops” offering Internet access (€1.50/30 minutes, €2.50/hour, daily 9:00-20:00, Philipstockstraat 4). Bean Around the World is a cozy coffeehouse with imported Yankee snacks and free Wi-Fi for customers (€1/15 minutes on their computers, Thu-Mon 10:00-19:00, Wed 11:30-19:00, closed Tue, Genthof 5, tel. 050-703-572, run by American expat Olene).
Post Office: It’s on the Markt near the bell tower (Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:30-15:00, closed Sun, tel. 050-331-411).
Laundry: Bruges has three self-service launderettes, each a five-minute walk from the center; ask your hotelier for the nearest one.
Bike Rental: Bruges Bike Rental is central and cheap, with friendly service and long hours (€3.50/hour, €5/2 hours, €7/4 hours, €10/day, show this book to get student rate—€8/day, no deposit required—just ID, daily 10:00-22:00, free city maps and child seats, behind the far-out iron facade at Niklaas Desparsstraat 17, tel. 050-616-108, Bilal). Fietsen Popelier Bike Rental is also good (€4/hour, €8/4 hours, €12/day, 24-hour day is OK if your hotel has a safe place to store bike, no deposit required, daily 10:00-19:00, sometimes open later in summer, free Damme map, Mariastraat 26, tel. 050-343-262). Koffieboontje Bike Rental is just under the bell tower on the Markt (€4/hour, €9/day, €20/day for tandem, these prices for Rick Steves readers, daily 9:00-22:00, free city maps and child seats, Hallestraat 4, tel. 050-338-027). De Ketting is less central, but cheap (€6/day, Mon-Fri 9:00-12:15 & 13:30-18:30 except Mon opens at 10:00, Sat 9:30-12:15, closed Sun, Gentpoortstraat 23, tel. 050-344-196, deketting.be). Fietspunt Brugge is a huge outfit at the train station (7-speed bikes, €12/24-hours, €7/4 hours, free maps, Mon-Fri 7:00-19:30, Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, just outside the station and to the right as you exit, tel. 050-396-826).
Best Town View: The bell tower overlooking the Markt rewards those who climb it with the ultimate town view.
Updates to This Book: For updates to this book, check ricksteves.com/update.
Most of the city is easily walkable, but you may want to take the bus or taxi between the train station and the city center at the Markt (especially if you have heavy luggage).
By Bus: A bus ticket is good for an hour (€1.20 if you buy in advance at Lijnwinkel shop just outside the train station, or €2 on the bus). And though you can buy various day passes, there’s really no need to buy one for your visit. Nearly all city buses go directly from the train station to the Markt and fan out from there; they then return to the Markt and go back to the train station. Note that buses returning to the train station from the Markt also leave from the library bus stop, a block off the square on nearby Kuiperstraat (every 5 minutes). Your key: Use buses that say either Station or Centrum.
By Taxi: You’ll find taxi stands at the station and on the Markt (€8/first 2 km; to get a cab in the center, call 050-334-444 or 050-333-881).
The most relaxing and scenic (though not informative) way to see this city of canals is by boat, with the captain narrating. The city carefully controls this standard tourist activity, so the many companies all offer essentially the same thing: a 30-minute route (roughly 4/hour, daily 10:00-17:00), a price of €7.60 (cash only), and narration in three or four languages. Qualitative differences are because of individual guides, not companies. Always let them know you speak English to ensure you’ll understand the spiel. Two companies give the group-rate discount to individuals with this book: Boten Stael (just over the canal from Memling Museum at Katelijnestraat 4, tel. 050-332-771) and Gruuthuse (Nieuwstraat 11, opposite Groeninge Museum, tel. 050-333-393).
QuasiMundo Bike Tours leads daily five-mile English-language bike tours around the city (€25, €3 discount with this book, 2.5 hours, departs March-Oct at 10:00, in Nov only with good weather, no tours Dec-Feb). For more details and contact info, see their listing under “Near Bruges,” later.
City Tour Bruges gives a rolling overview of the town in an 18-seat, two-skylight minibus with dial-a-language headsets and video support (€16, 50 minutes, pay driver). The tour leaves hourly from the Markt (10:00-19:00, until 18:00 in fall, less in winter, tel. 050-355-024, citytour.be). The narration, though clear, is slow-moving and a bit boring. But the tour is a lazy way to cruise past virtually every sight in Bruges.
Local guides walk small groups through the core of town (€9, 2 hours, daily July-Aug, Sat-Sun only mid-April-June and Sept-Oct, depart from TI on ’t Zand Square at 14:30—just drop in a few minutes early and buy tickets at the TI desk). Though earnest, the tours are heavy on history and given in two languages, so they may be less than peppy. Still, to propel you beyond the pretty gables and canal swans of Bruges, they’re good medicine. In the off-season, “winter walks” leave from the same TI four evenings a week (€9, Nov-Feb Sat-Mon and Wed at 17:00).
A private two-hour guided tour costs €70 (reserve at least one week in advance through TI, tel. 050-448-686). Or contact Daniëlle Janssens, who gives two-hour walks for €80, three-hour walks for €120, and full-day tours of Bruges and Brussels for €210 (mobile 0476-493-203, tourmanagementbelgium.be, tmb@skynet.be).
The buggies around town can take you on a clip-clop tour (€36, 35 minutes; price is per carriage, not per person; buggies gather in Minnewater, near entrance to Begijnhof, and on the Markt). When divided among four or five people, this can be a good value.
Popular tour destinations from Bruges are Flanders Fields (famous WWI sites about 40 miles to the southwest) and the picturesque town of Damme (4 easy-to-bike miles to the northeast).
This company offers those with extra time two entertaining, all-day, English-only bus tours through the rarely visited Flemish countryside. The “Flanders Fields” tour concentrates on WWI battlefields, trenches, memorials, and poppy-splattered fields (Tue-Sun at 9:15, no tours Mon or in Jan, 8 hours, visit to In Flanders Fields Museum not included). The other tour, “Triple Treat,” focuses on Flanders’ medieval past and rich culture, with tastes of chocolate, waffles, and beer (departs Mon, Wed, and Fri at 9:15, 8 hours). Be ready for lots of walking.
Tours cost €63, or €53 if you’re under 26 (cash preferred, €10 discount on second tour if you’ve taken the other, includes sandwich lunch, 9- or 30-seat bus depending on demand, non-smoking, reservations required—call 050-370-470, quasimodo.be). After making a few big-hotel pickups, the buses leave town from the Park Hotel on ’t Zand Square (arrange for pickup when you reserve).
QuasiMundo Bike Tours, which runs bike tours around Bruges (listed earlier), also offers a daily “Border by Bike” tour through the nearby countryside to Damme (€25, €3 discount with this book, March-Oct, departs at 13:00, 15 miles, 4 hours, tel. 050-330-775, quasimundo.com). Both their city and border tours include bike rental, a light raincoat (if necessary), water, and a drink in a local café. Meet at the metal “car wash” fountain on Burg Square 10 minutes before departure. If you already have a bike, you’re welcome to join either tour for €15. Jos, who leads most departures, is a high-energy and entertaining guide.
Charming Mieke of Pink Bear Bike Tours takes small groups on an easy and delightful 3.5-hour guided pedal along a canal to the historic town of Damme and back, finishing with a brief tour of Bruges. English tours go daily through peak season and nearly daily the rest of the year (€23, €2 discount with this book, €16 if you already have a bike, meet at 10:25 under bell tower on the Markt, tel. 050-616-686, mobile 0476-744-525, pinkbear.freeservers.com).
For bike rental shops in Bruges, see here.
▲▲Church of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk)
▲▲Memling Museum/St. John’s Hospital (Sint Janshospitaal)
Bruges Experiences: Beer, Chocolate, Windmills, and Biking
▲Choco-Story: The Chocolate Museum
Windmills and Lace by the Moat
These sights are listed in walking order, from the Markt (Market Square), to Burg Square, to the cluster of museums around the Church of Our Lady, to the Begijnhof (10-minute walk from beginning to end, without stops). Be aware that many sights stop admitting visitors 30 minutes before closing.
Ringed by a bank, the post office, lots of restaurant terraces, great old gabled buildings, and the iconic bell tower, this square is the modern heart of the city (most city buses run from near here to the train station—use the library bus stop, a block down Kuiperstraat from the Markt). Under the bell tower are two great Belgian-style french-fry stands, a quadrilingual Braille description of the old town, and a metal model of the tower. In Bruges’ heyday as a trading center, a canal came right up to this square. Geldmuntstraat, just off the square, is a delightful street with many fun and practical shops and eateries.
Most of this bell tower has presided over the Markt since 1300, serenading passersby with carillon music. The octagonal lantern was added in 1486, making it 290 feet high—that’s 366 steps. The view is worth the climb and probably even the pricey admission.
Cost and Hours: €8, daily 9:30-17:00, 16:15 last-entry time strictly enforced—best to show up before 16:00, €0.30 WC in courtyard.
This opulent square is Bruges’ civic center, the historic birthplace of Bruges, and the site of the ninth-century castle of the first count of Flanders. Today, it’s an atmospheric place to take in an outdoor concert while surrounded by six centuries of architecture.
Originally the Chapel of Saint Basil, this church is famous for its relic of the blood of Christ, which, according to tradition, was brought to Bruges in 1150 after the Second Crusade. The lower chapel is dark and solid—a fine example of Romanesque style. The upper chapel (separate entrance, climb the stairs) is decorated Gothic. An interesting treasury museum is next to the upper chapel.
Cost and Hours: April-Sept daily 9:30-12:00 & 14:00-18:00; Oct-March daily 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-16:00 except closed Wed afternoon; Burg Square, tel. 050-336-792, holyblood.com.
This complex houses several interesting sights. Your €2 ticket includes an audioguide; access to a room full of old town maps and paintings; the grand, beautifully restored Gothic Room from 1400, starring a painted and carved wooden ceiling adorned with hanging arches (daily 9:30-17:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, Burg 12); and the less impressive Renaissance Hall (Brugse Vrije), basically just one ornate room with a Renaissance chimney (same hours, separate entrance—in corner of square at Burg 11a).
This museum has one of the world’s best collections of the art produced in the city and surrounding area, from Memling to Magritte. In the 1400s, Bruges was northern Europe’s richest, most cosmopolitan, and most cultured city. New ideas, fads, and painting techniques were imported and exported with each shipload. Beautiful paintings were soon an affordable luxury, like fancy clothes or furniture. Internationally known artists set up studios in Bruges, producing portraits and altarpieces for wealthy merchants from all over Europe.
While there’s plenty of worthwhile modern art, the Groeninge’s highlights are the vivid and pristine Flemish Primitives. (“Primitive” here means “before the Renaissance.”) This early Flemish style, though less appreciated and understood today than the Italian Renaissance art produced a century later, is subtle, technically advanced, and beautiful. Flemish art is shaped by its love of detail, its merchant patrons’ egos, and the power of the Church. Lose yourself in the halls of Groeninge: Gaze across 15th-century canals, into the eyes of reassuring Marys, and through town squares littered with leotards, lace, and lopped-off heads.
Cost and Hours: €8, Tue-Sun 9:30-17:00, closed Mon, Dijver 12, tel. 050-448-743, brugge.be.
The church stands as a memorial to the power and wealth of Bruges in its heyday. A delicate Madonna and Child by Michelangelo is near the apse (to the right if you’re facing the altar). It’s said to be the only Michelangelo statue to leave Italy in his lifetime (thanks to the wealth generated by Bruges’ cloth trade). If you like tombs and church art, pay to wander through the apse.
Cost and Hours: The rear of the church is free to the public. To get into the main section costs €4; church open Mon-Sat 9:30-17:00, Sun 13:30-17:00, Mariastraat, brugge.be.
The former monastery/hospital complex has a fine museum in what was once the monks’ church. The museum offers a glimpse into medieval medicine, displaying surgical instruments, documents, and visual aids as you work your way to the museum’s climax: several of Hans Memling’s glowing masterpieces. Memling’s art was the culmination of Bruges’ Flemish Primitive style. His serene, soft-focus, motionless scenes capture a medieval piety that was quickly fading. The popular style made Memling (c. 1430-1494) one of Bruges’ wealthiest citizens, and his work was gobbled up by visiting Italian merchants, who took it home with them, cross-pollinating European art. His Mystical Wedding of St. Catherine triptych is a highlight, as is the miniature, gilded-oak shrine to St. Ursula.
Cost and Hours: €8, includes good audioguide, Tue-Sun 9:30-17:00, closed Mon, last entry 30 minutes before closing, across the street from the Church of Our Lady, Mariastraat 38, Bruges museums tel. 050-448-713, brugge.be.
Inhabited by Benedictine nuns, the Begijnhof courtyard (free, daily 6:30-18:30) almost makes you want to don a habit and fold your hands as you walk under its wispy trees and whisper past its frugal little homes. For a good slice of Begijnhof life, walk through the simple Beguine’s House museum.
Cost and Hours: €2, Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 14:30-17:00, shorter hours off-season, English explanations, museum is left of entry gate.
Just south of the Begijnhof is Minnewater, an idyllic world of flower boxes, canals, and swans.
As you walk from the Begijnhof back to the town center, you might detour along Nieuwe Gentweg to visit one of about 20 almshouses in the city. At #8, go through the door marked Godshuis de Meulenaere 1613 into the peaceful courtyard (free). This was a medieval form of housing for the poor. The rich would pay for someone’s tiny room here in return for lots of prayers.
Belgians are Europe’s beer connoisseurs, and this handy tour is a great way to pay your respects. The brewery makes the only beers brewed in Bruges: Brugse Zot (“Fool from Bruges”) and Straffe Hendrik (“Strong Henry”). The happy gang at this working-family brewery gives entertaining and informative 45-minute tours in two languages. Avoid crowds by visiting at 11:00.
Cost and Hours: €6.50 includes a beer, lots of very steep steps, great rooftop panorama; tours run April-Oct daily on the hour 11:00-16:00, Sat until 18:00; Nov-March Mon-Fri 11:00 and 15:00 only, Sat-Sun on the hour 11:00-17:00; Walplein 26, tel. 050-444-223, halvemaan.be.
Bruggians are connoisseurs of fine chocolate. You’ll be tempted by chocolate-filled display windows all over town. While Godiva is the best big-factory/high-price/high-quality brand, there are plenty of smaller family-run places in Bruges that offer exquisite handmade chocolates. All three of the following chocolatiers are proud of their creative varieties, generous with their samples, and welcome you to assemble a 100-gram assortment of five or six chocolates.
Dumon: Perhaps Bruges’ smoothest, creamiest chocolates are at Dumon, just off the Markt (a selection of 5 or 6 chocolates are a deal at €2.30/100 grams). Nathalie Dumon runs the store with Madame Dumon still dropping by to help make their top-notch chocolate daily and sell it fresh (Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, old chocolate molds on display in basement, Eiermarkt 6, tel. 050-346-282). The Dumons don’t provide English labels because they believe it’s best to describe their chocolates in person—and they do it with an evangelical fervor. Try a small mix-and-match box to sample a few out-of-this-world flavors, and come back for more of your favorites.
The Chocolate Line: Locals and tourists alike flock to The Chocolate Line (pricey at €5.60/100 grams) to taste the gastronomique varieties concocted by Dominique Person—the mad scientist of chocolate. His unique creations mix chocolate with various, mostly savory, flavors. Even those that sound gross can be surprisingly good (be adventurous). Options include Havana cigar (marinated in rum, cognac, and Cuban tobacco leaves—so, therefore, technically illegal in the US), lemongrass, lavender, ginger (shaped like a Buddha), saffron curry, spicy chili, Moroccan mint, Pop Rocks/cola chocolate, wine vinegar, fried onions, bay leaf, sake, lime/vodka/passion fruit, wasabi, and tomatoes/olives/basil. The kitchen—busy whipping up 80 varieties—is on display in the back. Enjoy the window display, refreshed monthly (daily 9:30-18:00 except Sun-Mon opens at 10:30, between Church of Our Lady and the Markt at Simon Stevinplein 19, tel. 050-341-090).
Confiserie De Clerck: Third-generation chocolate maker Jan sells his handmade chocolates for just €1.20/100 grams, making this one of the best deals in town. Some locals claim his chocolate’s just as good as at pricier places—taste it and decide for yourself. The time-warp candy shop itself is so delightfully old-school, you’ll want to visit no matter what (Mon-Wed and Fri-Sat 10:00-19:00, closed Sun and Thu, Academiestraat 19, tel. 050-345-338).
The Chocolate Fairy leads you through 2,600 years of chocolate history—explaining why, in the ancient Mexican world of the Mayas and the Aztecs, chocolate was considered the drink of the gods, and cocoa beans were used as a means of payment. With lots of artifacts well-described in English, this kid-friendly museum fills you in on the production of truffles, bonbons, hollow figures, and solid bars of chocolate. You’ll view a delicious little video (8 minutes long, runs continuously, English subtitles). Your finale is in the “demonstration room,” where—after a 10-minute cooking demo—you get a taste.
Cost and Hours: €7, €11 combo-ticket includes nearby Friet Museum, daily 10:00-17:00; where Wijnzakstraat meets Sint Jansstraat at Sint Jansplein, 3-minute walk from the Markt; tel. 050-612-237, choco-story.be.
Nearby: The Chocolate Museum owner’s wife got tired of his ancient lamp collection...so he opened a Lamp Museum next door (€11 combo-ticket with Chocolate Museum). While obscure, it’s an impressive and well-described collection showing lamps through the ages.
While this fun-loving and kid-friendly place tries hard to elevate the story of the potato, this is—for most—one museum too many. Still, it’s the only place in the world that enthusiastically tells the story of french fries, which, of course, aren’t even French—they’re Belgian.
Cost and Hours: €6, €11 combo-ticket includes Chocolate Museum, daily 10:00-17:00, Vlamingstraat 33, tel. 050-340-150, frietmuseum.be.
A 15-minute walk from the center to the northeast end of town (faster by bike) brings you to four windmills strung along a pleasant grassy setting on the “big moat” canal. The St. Janshuys windmill is open to visitors (€2; May-Aug Tue-Sun 9:30-12:30 & 13:30-17:00, closed Mon, last entry at 16:30; Sept same hours but open Sat-Sun only; closed Oct-April; go to the end of Carmersstraat and hang a right).
The Folklore Museum, in the same neighborhood, is cute but forgettable (€2, Tue-Sun 9:30-17:00, last entry at 16:30, closed Mon, Balstraat 43, tel. 050-448-764). To find it, ask for the Jerusalem Church. On the same street is a lace shop with a good reputation, ’t Apostelientje (Tue 13:00-17:00, Wed-Sat 9:30-12:15 & 13:15-17:00, Sun 10:00-13:00, closed Mon, Balstraat 11, tel. 050-337-860, mobile 0495-562-420).
The Dutch word for bike is fiets (pronounced “feets”). And though Bruges’ sights are close enough for easy walking, the town is a treat for bikers, and a bike quickly gets you into dreamy back lanes without a hint of tourism. Take a peaceful evening ride through the town’s nooks and crannies and around the outer canal. Consider keeping a bike for the duration of your stay—it’s the way the locals get around. Along the canal that circles the town is a park with a delightful bike lane. Rental shops have maps and ideas (see “Bike Rental” on here for more info).
Herberg Vlissinghe and De Garre (both listed later, under “Eating in Bruges”) are great places to just nurse a beer and enjoy new friends.
Charlie Rockets is an American-style bar—lively and central—with foosball games, darts, and five pool tables (€9/hour) in the inviting back room. It also runs a youth hostel upstairs and therefore is filled with a young, international crowd who take full advantage of the guest-only happy hour prices (a block off the Markt at Hoogstraat 19). It’s open nightly until 4:00 in the morning with nonstop rock ‘n’ roll.
Nighttime Bike Ride: Great as these pubs are, my favorite way to spend a late-summer evening in Bruges is in the twilight on a rental bike, savoring the cobbled wonders of its back streets, far from the touristic commotion.
Evening Carillon Concerts: The tiny courtyard behind the bell tower has a few benches where people can enjoy the free carillon concerts (generally Mon, Wed, and Sat at 21:00 in the summer; schedule posted on courtyard wall).
Bruges is a great place to sleep, with Gothic spires out your window, little traffic noise, and the cheerily out-of-tune carillon heralding each new day at 8:00 sharp. (Thankfully, the bell tower is silent from 22:00 to 8:00.) Most Bruges accommodations are located between the train station and the old center, with the most distant (and best) being a few blocks to the north and east of the Markt (Market Square).
B&Bs offer the best value (listed on here), but hoteliers have lobbied City Hall to make it harder to have more than two “official” rooms. Creative B&B owners have found ways to get around the new restrictions. All are on quiet streets and (with a few exceptions) keep the same prices throughout the year.
Bruges is most crowded Friday and Saturday evenings from Easter through October—July and August weekends are the worst. Many hotels charge a bit more on Friday and Saturday, and won’t let you stay just one night if it’s a Saturday.
$$$ Hotel Heritage offers 24 rooms, with chandeliers that seem hung especially for you, in a solid and completely modernized old building with luxurious public spaces. Tastefully decorated and offering all the amenities, it’s one of those places that does everything just right yet still feels warm and inviting—if you can afford it (Db-€178, superior Db-€229, deluxe Db-€283, extra bed-€60, wonderful buffet breakfast-€24, continental breakfast-€12, iPad in every room, air-con, elevator, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, sauna, tanning bed, fitness room, bike rental, free 2-hour guided city tour, parking-€35/day, Niklaas Desparsstraat 11, a block north of the Markt, tel. 050-444-444, hotel-heritage.com, info@hotel-heritage.com). It’s run by cheery and hardworking Johan and Isabelle Creytens.
$$$ Hotel Adornes is small and classy—a great value situated in the most charming part of town. This 17th-century canalside house has 20 rooms with full modern bathrooms, free parking (reserve in advance), free loaner bikes, and a cellar lounge with games and videos (small Db-€125, larger Db-€145-155, Tb-€175, Qb-€185, elevator, free Wi-Fi in lobby, some street noise, near Carmersstraat at St. Annarei 26, tel. 050-341-336, adornes.be, info@adornes.be). Nathalie runs the family business with the help of courteous Rik.
$$ Hotel Patritius, family-run and centrally located, is a grand, circa-1830 Neoclassical mansion with hardwood oak floors in its 16 stately, high-ceilinged rooms. It features a plush lounge, a chandeliered breakfast room, and a courtyard garden. If you get a room at the lower end of the price range, this can be a great value (Db-€100-140, Tb-€140-165, Qb-€165-200, cheaper in off-season, rates depend on room size and demand—check site for best price, extra bed-€25, air-con, elevator, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, coin-op laundry, parking-€9/day, garage parking-€15/day, Riddersstraat 11, tel. 050-338-454, hotelpatritius.be, info@hotelpatritius.be, cordial Garrett and Elvi Spaey).
$$ Hotel Egmond is a creaky mansion located in the middle of the quietly idyllic Minnewater. Its eight 18th-century rooms are plain, with small modern baths shoehorned in, and the guests-only garden is just waiting for a tea party. This hotel is ideal for romantics who want a countryside setting—where you sleep surrounded by a park, not a city (Sb-€95, small twin Db-€105, larger Db-€115, Tb-€150, cheaper in winter, free Wi-Fi, parking-€10/day, Minnewater 15, for location see map on here, tel. 050-341-445, egmond.be, info@egmond.be, Steven).
$$ Hotel Botaniek, quietly located a block from Astrid Park, is a pint-sized hotel with a comfy lounge, renting nine slightly worn rooms—some of them quite big (Db-€95 weekday special for my readers, €99 Fri-Sat; Qb-€145, €149 Fri-Sat; less for longer and off-season stays, elevator, Waalsestraat 23, tel. 050-341-424, botaniek.be, info@botaniek.be, Andy).
$$ Hotel ter Reien is big and basic, with 26 rooms overlooking a canal in the town center (Db-€70-110, Tb-€95-130, Qb-€140-160, rates vary widely with demand—check their website for best prices; cheapest rates for weekdays, stays of at least 3 nights, or rooms without canal views; extra bed-€24-29, pay Internet access and Wi-Fi, Langestraat 1, tel. 050-349-100, hotelterreien.be, info@hotelterreien.be, owned by Diederik and Stephanie Pille-Maes).
$$ Walwyck Cool Down Hotel—a bit of modern comfort, chic design, and English verbiage in a medieval shell—is a nicely located hotel with 21 spacious rooms. If you’re getting tired of Bruges cute, this is the place (small Db-€100, standard Db-€110, “superior” Db-€120, Tb-€150, family room-€155, “superior” family room-€180, free Wi-Fi, Leeuwstraat 8, tel. 050-616-360, walwyck.com, rooms@walwyck.com).
$$ Hotel Cordoeanier, a charming family-run hotel, rents 22 simple, compact, hardwood-floor rooms on a quiet street two blocks off the Markt. It’s one of the best deals in town (Sb-€75-105, Db-€80-110, twin Db-€90-120, Tb-€110-150, Qb-€135, cheaper with cash if you show this book, breakfast buffet served in their pleasant Café Rose Red, no elevator, pay Internet access, free Wi-Fi, patio, Cordoeanierstraat 16-18, tel. 050-339-051, cordoeanier.be, info@cordoeanier.be, Kris).
$$ Hotel Marcel (formerly the Hotel Nicolas) recently underwent a complete makeover, so expect its 20 big rooms to have all the amenities—and higher prices. The location is ideal—on a quiet street a block off the Markt (Db-€90-130, elevator, Niklaas Desparsstraat 9, tel. 050-335-502, hotelmarcel.be, info@hotelmarcel.be, Sophie).
$$ Hotel BlaBla is another completely renovated hotel in a charming building on a handy, quiet street (Db-€95-105, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, Dweersstraat 24, tel. 050-339-014, hotelblabla.com, info@hotelblabla.be).
$ Hotel Cavalier, with lots of stairs and lots of character, rents eight rooms decorated with quirky knickknacks; some units have remodeled bathrooms. The staff serves a hearty buffet breakfast in a once-royal setting (Sb-€60, Db-€73, Tb-€95, Qb-€105, 2 lofty en-suite “backpackers’ doubles” on fourth floor-€45-50, book direct and mention this book for special Rick Steves price, free Wi-Fi, Kuipersstraat 25, tel. 050-330-207, hotelcavalier.be, info@hotelcavalier.be, run by friendly Viviane De Clerck).
$ Hotel de Pauw is tall, skinny, flower-bedecked, and family-run, with eight straightforward rooms on a quiet street next to a church (Sb-€70-75, Db-€85-95, no elevator, free and easy street parking, Sint Gilliskerkhof 8, tel. 050-337-118, hoteldepauw.be, info@hoteldepauw.be, Philippe and Hilde).
$ Hotel ’t Keizershof is a dollhouse of a hotel that lives by its motto, “Spend a night...not a fortune.” (Its other motto: “When you’re asleep, we look just like those big fancy hotels.”) It’s simple and tidy, with seven small, cheery, old-time rooms split between two floors, with a shower and toilet on each (S-€30-45, D-€45, T-€66, Q-€84, cash only, free Wi-Fi, free and easy parking, laundry service-€7.50, Oostmeers 126, a block in front of station, for location see map on here, tel. 050-338-728, hotelkeizershof.be, info@hotelkeizershof.be). The hotel is run by Stefaan and Hilde, with decor by their children, Lorie and Fien; it’s situated in a pleasant area near the train station and Minnewater, a 15-minute walk from the Markt.
$ Hotel Notre Dame has seen better days, but new owner Gauthier is renovating its 12 well-worn rooms. Since this place is in the thick of things, it’s worth considering, but stay in the renovated rooms only (Db-€70-75, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Mariastraat 3, tel. 050-333-193, hotelnotredame.be, info@hotelnotredame.be).
These B&Bs, run by people who enjoy their work, offer a better value than hotels. Most families rent out their entire top floor—several rooms and a small sitting area. And most are mod and stylish—they’re just in medieval shells. Each is central, with lots of stairs and €70 doubles you’d pay €100 for in a hotel. Many places charge €10-15 extra for one-night stays. It’s possible to find parking on the street in the evening (pay 9:00-19:00, 2-hour maximum for metered parking during the day, free overnight).
$$$ Hamiltons B&B, formerly the Royal Stewart B&B, offers two luxury suites in a quiet, convent-style 17th-century house (D/Db-€130, book direct and mention Rick Steves for this price, cash preferred, Genthof 27, mobile 0479-445-134, hamiltons.be, nicola@hamiltons.be, Nicola and Olivier).
$$ Absoluut Verhulst is a great, modern-feeling B&B with three rooms in a 400-year-old house, run by friendly Frieda and Benno (Db-€95; huge and lofty suite-€130 for 2, €160 for 3, €180 for 4; €10 more for one-night stays, cash only, free Wi-Fi, 5-minute walk east of the Markt at Verbrand Nieuwland 1, tel. 050-334-515, b-bverhulst.com, b-b.verhulst@pandora.be).
$$ Gastenhuis Sint-Andriescruyse offers warmly decorated rooms with high ceilings in a spacious, cheerfully red canalside house a short walk from the Old Town action. Owners Luc and Christiane treat guests like long-lost family, and proudly share their photo albums with pictures of previous guests (S-€75, D/Db-€100, T-€125, Q-€150, family room for up to 5 comes with board games, cash only, free soft drinks, free Internet access, free pick-up at station, Verversdijk 15A, tel. 050-789-168, mobile 0477-973-933, gastenhuisst-andriescruyse.be, luc.cloet@telenet.be).
$$ B&B Gheeraert is a Neoclassical mansion where Inne rents three huge, bright, comfy rooms (Sb-€75, Db-€85, Tb-€95, two-night minimum stay required, cash only but credit card required to hold reservation, strictly non-smoking, fridges in rooms, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Riddersstraat 9, 5-minute walk east of the Markt, tel. 050-335-627, bb-bruges.be, bb-bruges@skynet.be).
$ B&B Setola, run by Lut and Bruno Setola, offers three expansive rooms and a spacious breakfast/living room on the top floor of their house. Wooden ceiling beams give the modern rooms a touch of Old World flair, and the family room has a fun loft for the kids (Sb-€65, Db-€75, extra person-€25, add €15 for one-night stays, free Wi-Fi, 5-minute walk from the Markt, Sint Walburgastraat 12, tel. 050-334-977, bedandbreakfast-bruges.com, setola@bedandbreakfast-bruges.com).
$ Koen and Annemie Dieltiens are a friendly couple who enjoy getting to know their guests while sharing a wealth of information on Bruges. You’ll eat a hearty breakfast around a big table in their comfortable house (Sb-€60, Db-€70, Tb-€90, €10 more for one-night stays, cash only, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, Waalsestraat 40, three blocks southeast of Burg Square, tel. 050-334-294, bedandbreakfastbruges.be, dieltiens@bedandbreakfastbruges.be).
$ Debruyne B&B, run by Marie-Rose and her architect husband, Ronny, offers three rooms with artsy, modern decor (check out the elephant-size yellow doors—Ronny’s design). The glass walls in the breakfast room open to a cloister-like garden. The architecture is cool but the hosts have genuine warmth (Sb-€65, Db-€70, Tb-€90, €10 more for one-night stays, cash only, Internet access, free Wi-Fi, 7-minute walk north of the Markt, 2 blocks from the little church at Lange Raamstraat 18, tel. 050-347-606, bedandbreakfastbruges.com, mietjedebruyne@yahoo.co.uk).
$ ’t Geerwijn B&B, run by Chris de Loof, offers homey rooms in the old center. Check out the fun, lofty A-frame room upstairs (Ds/Db-€75-80 depending on season, Tb-€85-90, cash only, pleasant breakfast room and royal lounge, free Wi-Fi, Geerwijnstraat 14, tel. 050-340-544, geerwijn.be, info@geerwijn.be). Chris also rents an apartment that sleeps five.
$ Waterside B&B has two fresh, Zen-like rooms, one floor above a peaceful canal south of the town center (D-€80, €5 more on Sat, continental breakfast, free Wi-Fi, 15-minute walk from Burg Square at Kazernevest 88, for location see map on here, tel. 050-616-686, mobile 0476-744-525, waterside.be, waterside@telenet.be, run by Mieke of recommended Pink Bear Bike Tours).
$ B&B AM/PM sports three ultra-modern rooms in a residential neighborhood just west of the old town (Db-€70, Tb-€90, €10 more for one-night stay, cash only, free Internet access—mornings only, free Wi-Fi, 5-minute walk from ’t Zand at Singel 10, for location see map on here, mobile 0485-071-003, bruges-bedandbreakfast.com, info@bruges-bedandbreakfast.com, artsy young couple Tiny and Kevin). From the train station, head left down busy Buiten Begijnevest to the roundabout. Stay to the left, take the pedestrian underpass, then follow the busy road (now on your left). Just before the next bridge, turn right onto the footpath called Buiten Boeverievest, then turn left onto Singel; the B&B is at #10.
Bruges has several good hostels offering beds for around €16 in 4- to 12-bed rooms. Breakfast is about €3 extra. The American-style $ Charlie Rockets hostel (and bar), a backpacker dive, is the liveliest and most central. The ground floor feels like a 19th-century sports bar, with a foosball-and-movie-posters party ambience. Upstairs is an industrial-strength pile of hostel dorms (90 beds, €18/bed with sheets, €22/bed with sheets and breakfast, 4-6 beds/room, D-€55 includes breakfast, lockers, free Wi-Fi, Hoogstraat 19, tel. 050-330-660, charlierockets.com). Other small and loose places are the minimal, funky, and central $ Passage (€16/bed with sheets, 4-7 beds/room, D-€52, Db-€67, Dweerstraat 26, tel. 050-340-232, passagebruges.com, info@passagebruges.com) and $ Snuffel Backpacker Hostel, which is less central and pretty grungy, but friendly and laid-back (60 beds, €16-18/bed includes sheets and breakfast, 4-12 beds/room, Ezelstraat 47, tel. 050-333-133, snuffel.be).
Bruges’ specialties include mussels cooked a variety of ways (one order can feed two), fish dishes, grilled meats, and french fries. The town’s two indigenous beers are the prizewinning Brugse Zot (Bruges Fool), a golden ale, and Straffe Hendrik, a potent, bitter triple ale.
You’ll find plenty of affordable, touristy restaurants on floodlit squares and along dreamy canals. Bruges feeds 3.5 million tourists a year, and most are seduced by a high-profile location. These can be great experiences for the magical setting and views, but the quality of food and service will likely be mediocre. I wouldn’t blame you for eating at one of these places, but I won’t recommend any. I prefer the candle-cool bistros that flicker on back streets.
(See “Bruges Restaurants” map, here.)
Rock Fort is a chic spot with a modern, fresh coziness and a high-powered respect for good food. Two young chefs, Peter Laloo and Hermes Vanliefde, give their French cuisine a creative, gourmet twist. At the bar they serve a separate tapas menu. Reservations recommended. This place is a winner (€6-12 tapas, great pastas and salads, €15 lunch special, beautifully presented €19-34 dinner plates, €40 five-tapas special, fancy €50 fixed-price four-course meal, open Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-23:00, closed Sat-Sun, Langestraat 15, tel. 050-334-113).
Bistro in den Wittenkop, very Flemish, is a stylishly small, laid-back, old-time place specializing in local favorites, where Lindsey serves while Patrick cooks. It’s a classy spot to enjoy hand-cut fries, which go particularly well with Straffe Hendrik beer (€37 three-course meal, €20-25 plates, Tue-Sat 18:00-21:30, closed Sun-Mon, reserve ahead, terrace in back in summer, Sint Jakobsstraat 14, tel. 050-332-059).
Bistro den Amand, with a plain interior and a few outdoor tables, exudes unpretentious quality the moment you step in. In this mussels-free zone, Chef An is enthusiastic about stir-fry and vegetables, as her busy wok and fun salads prove. Portions are splittable and there are always good vegetarian options. The creative dishes—some with a hint of Asian influence—are a welcome departure from Bruges’ mostly predictable traditional restaurants. It’s on a bustling pedestrian lane a half-block off the Markt (€35 three-course meal, €20-25 plates; Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-21:00, closed Wed and Sun; Sint-Amandstraat 4, tel. 050-340-122, An Vissers and Arnout Beyaert). Reservations are smart for dinner.
The Flemish Pot is a busy eatery where enthusiastic chefs Mario and Rik cook up a traditional menu of vintage Flemish specialties—from beef and rabbit stew to eel—served in little iron pots and skillets. Seating is tight and cluttered, and service can be spotty. But you’ll enjoy huge portions, refills from the hovering “fries angel,” and a good selection of local beers (€26-30 three-course meals, €16-24 plates, daily 12:00-22:00, reservations smart, just off Geldmuntstraat at Helmstraat 3, tel. 050-340-086).
Lotus Vegetarian Restaurant serves serious lunch plates (€10 plat du jour offered daily), salads, and homemade chocolate cake in a pleasantly small, bustling, and upscale setting. To keep carnivorous companions happy, they also serve several very good, organic meat dishes (Mon-Fri from 11:45, last orders at 14:00, closed Sat-Sun, just north of Burg Square at Wapenmakersstraat 5, tel. 050-331-078).
De Hobbit, featuring an entertaining menu, is always busy with happy eaters. For a swinging deal, try the all-you-can-eat spareribs with bread and salad for €18.50. It’s nothing fancy, just good, basic food served in a fun, crowded, traditional grill house (daily 18:00-23:00, family-friendly, Kemelstraat 8-10, reservations smart, tel. 050-335-520).
Tom’s Diner is a trendy, cozy little candlelit bistro in a quiet, cobbled residential area a 10-minute walk from the center. Young chef Tom gives traditional dishes a delightful modern twist, such as his signature Flemish meat loaf with rhubarb sauce. If you want to flee the tourists and experience a popular neighborhood joint, this is it—the locals love it (€15-20 plates, Tue-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed Sun-Mon, north of the Markt near Sint-Gilliskerk at West-Gistelhof 23, tel. 050-333-382).
Restaurant de Koetse is handy for central, good-quality, local-style food. The feeling is traditional, a bit formal (stuffy even), and dressy, yet accessible. The cuisine is Belgian and French, with an emphasis on grilled meat, seafood, and mussels (€30 three-course meals, €20-30 plates include vegetables and a salad, Fri-Wed 12:00-14:30 & 18:00-22:00, closed Thu, non-smoking section, Oude Burg 31, tel. 050-337-680, Piet).
Carlito’s is a good choice for basic Italian fare. Their informal space, with whitewashed walls and tea-light candles, is two blocks from Burg Square (€8-13 pizzas and pastas, daily 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-22:30, patio seating in back, Hoogstraat 21, tel. 050-490-075).
Restaurant Sint-Barbe, on the eastern edge of town, is a homey little neighborhood place where Evi serves classy Flemish dishes made from local ingredients in a fresh, modern space on two floors (€12 soup-and-main lunch, €14-25 main courses, Thu-Mon 11:30-14:30 & 18:00-22:00, closed Tue-Wed, food served until 21:00, St. Annaplein 29, tel. 050-330-999).
L’Estaminet is a youthful, jazz-filled eatery, similar to one of Amsterdam’s brown cafés. Don’t be intimidated by its lack of tourists. Local students flock here for the Tolkien-chic ambience, hearty €9 spaghetti, and big dinner salads. This is Belgium—it serves more beer than wine. For outdoor dining under an all-weather canopy, enjoy the relaxed patio facing peaceful Astrid Park (Fri-Wed 11:30-24:00, Thu 16:00-24:00, Park 5, tel. 050-330-916).
Restaurants on the Markt: Most tourists seem to be eating on the Markt with the bell tower high overhead and horse carriages clip-clopping by. The square is ringed by tourist traps with aggressive waiters expert at getting you to consume more than you intended. Still, if you order smartly, you can have a memorable meal or drink here on one of the finest squares in Europe at a reasonable price. Consider Café-Brasserie Craenenburg, with a straightforward menu, where you can get pasta and beer for €15 and spend all the time you want ogling the magic of Bruges (daily 7:30-23:00, Markt 16, tel. 050-333-402). While it’s overpriced for dining, it can be a fine place to savor a before- or after-meal drink with the view.
Cheap Eats: Medard Brasserie, just a block off the Markt, serves the cheapest hot meal in town—hearty meat spaghetti (big plate-€3, huge plate-€5.50, sit inside or out, Fri-Wed 11:00-20:30, closed Thu, Sint Amandstraat 18, tel. 050-348-684).
(See “Bruges Restaurants” map, here.)
My best budget-eating tip for Bruges: Stop into one of the city’s bars for a simple meal and a couple of world-class beers with great Bruges ambience. The last three pubs listed are in the wonderfully gezellig (cozy) quarter, northeast of the Markt. Just walking out here is a treat as it gets you away from the tourists.
The ’t Brugs Beertje is young and convivial. Although any pub or restaurant carries the basic beers, you’ll find a selection here of more than 300 types, including seasonal brews. They serve light meals, including pâté, spaghetti, toasted sandwiches, and a traditional cheese plate. You’re welcome to sit at the bar and talk with the staff (€12 for splittable plate with 5 cheeses, bread, and salad; Thu-Tue 16:00-24:00, closed Wed, Kemelstraat 5, tel. 050-339-616, run by fun-loving manager Daisy). Daisy’s on a mission to sell the world on the wonders of beer and cheese rather than wine and cheese.
De Garre (deh-HHHHAHR-rah) is another good place to gain an appreciation of the Belgian beer culture. Rather than a noisy pub scene, it has a dressy, sit-down-and-focus-on-your-friend-and-the-fine-beer vibe. It’s mature and cozy with tables, light meals (cold cuts, pâtés, and toasted sandwiches), and a huge selection of beers, with heavy beers being the forte (Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon, additional seating up tiny staircase, off Breidelstraat between Burg and the Markt, on tiny Garre alley, tel. 050-341-029).
Café Terrastje is a cozy pub serving light meals. Enjoy the subdued ambience inside, or relax on the front terrace overlooking the canal and heart of the gezellig district (€6-8 sandwiches, €10-18 dishes; food served Fri-Mon 12:00-21:00, open until 23:30; Tue 12:00-18:00; closed Wed-Thu; corner of Genthof and Langerei, tel. 050-330-919, Ian and Patricia).
Herberg Vlissinghe is the oldest pub in town (1515). Bruno keeps things basic and laid-back, serving simple plates (lasagna, grilled cheese sandwiches, and famous €8 angel-hair spaghetti) and great beer in the best old-time tavern atmosphere in town. This must have been the Dutch Masters’ rec room. The garden outside comes with a boules court—free for guests to watch or play (Wed-Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, closed Mon-Tue, Blekersstraat 2, tel. 050-343-737).
Pub ’t Gezelleke lacks the mystique of the Vlissinghe, but it’s a true neighborhood pub offering spaghetti and a few basic plates and a good chance to drink with locals (if you sit at the bar). Its name is an appropriate play on the word for cozy and the name of a great local poet (daily 11:00-24:00, but closed Sun and Wed, Carmersstraat 15, tel. 050-338-381, Jean de Bruges). Don’t come here to eat outdoors.
(See “Bruges Restaurants” map, here.)
Local french fries (friets) are a treat. Proud and traditional frituurs serve tubs of fries and various local-style shish kebabs. Belgians dip their friets in mayonnaise, but ketchup is there for the Yankees (along with spicier sauces). For a quick, cheap, hot, and scenic snack, hit a frituur and sit on the steps or benches overlooking the Markt (convenience benches are about 50 yards past the post office).
Markt Frituurs: Twin take-away fry carts are on the Markt at the base of the bell tower (daily 10:00-24:00). Skip the ketchup and have a sauce adventure. I find the cart on the left more user-friendly.
’t Brugsch Friethuys, a block off the Markt, is handy for fries you can sit down and enjoy. Its forte is greasy, deep-fried Flemish fast food. The €12 “Big Hunger menu” comes with all the traditional gut bombs: shrimp, frikandel minced-meat sausage, and “gypsy stick” sausage (daily 11:00-late, at the corner of Geldmuntstraat and Sint Jakobstraat, Luc will explain your options).
Delhaize-Proxy Supermarket is ideal for picnics. Its push-button produce pricer lets you buy as little as one mushroom (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, closed Sun, 3 blocks off the Markt on Geldmuntstraat). For midnight snacks, you’ll find Indian-run corner grocery stores scattered around town.
Carrefour Express is handy for picnics and stocking your hotel room pantry. It’s just off the Markt on Vlamingstraat (daily 8:00-19:00).
(See “Bruges Restaurants” map, here.)
You’ll see waffles sold at restaurants and take-away stands. Oyya is particularly good, and a favorite with Bruges’ teens when they get the waffle munchies. Their classic waffle with chocolate costs €3 (daily in summer 10:00-22:00, until 23:00 Fri-Sat; winter 10:00-20:00, until 22:00 Fri-Sat; across from Gelateria Da Vinci at Noordzandstraat 1, tel. 050-333-213).
Gelateria Da Vinci, the local favorite for homemade ice cream, has creative flavors and a lively atmosphere. As you approach, you’ll see a line of happy lickers. Before ordering, ask to sample the Ferrero Rocher (chocolate, nuts, and crunchy cookie) and plain yogurt (daily 11:00-23:00, later in summer, Geldmuntstraat 34, run by Sylvia from Austria).
From Bruges by Train to: Brussels (2/hour, usually at :31 and :58, 1 hour), Brussels Airport (2/hour, 1.5 hours, transfer at Brussels Nord), Delft (hourly, 3 hours, change in Ghent, Antwerp, and Rotterdam), Paris (roughly hourly via Brussels, 2.5 hours on fast Thalys trains—it’s best to book by 20:00 the day before), Amsterdam (hourly, 3 hours, transfer at Antwerp Central or Brussels Midi; transfer can be tight—be alert and check with conductor; some trips via Thalys train, which requires supplement), Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport (10/day, 2.75 hours, change in Antwerp), Haarlem (hourly, 3.5 hours, 2-3 changes—avoid Thalys if traveling with a rail pass).
Trains from London: Bruges is an ideal “Welcome to Europe” stop after London. Take the Eurostar train from London to Brussels (10/day, 2.5 hours), then transfer, backtracking to Bruges (2/hour, 1 hour, entire trip just a few dollars more with Eurostar ticket).
Trains to London: Eurostar trains to London leave from tracks 1 and 2 at Brussels’ Midi/Zuid/South Station. Arrive 30 minutes early to get your ticket validated and your luggage and passport checked by British authorities (similar to airport check-in for an international flight).
By Bus to: London (generally €43 one-way, €72 round-trip, 1/day direct, about 5 hours, Eurolines tel. 02-274-1350 in Brussels, eurolines.be).