I’ve focused most of my recommendations in several safe, handy, and colorful neighborhoods: the village-like Rue Cler (near the Eiffel Tower), the artsy and trendy Marais (near Place de la Bastille), the historic island of Ile St. Louis (next door to Notre-Dame), and the lively, Latin, and classy Luxembourg Garden neighborhood (on the Left Bank). Before choosing a hotel, read the descriptions of the neighborhoods closely. Each offers different pros and cons: Your neighborhood is as important as your hotel for the success of your trip.
For lower rates or greater selection, look farther away from the river (prices drop proportionately with distance from the Seine), but be prepared to spend more time on the Métro or bus getting to sights. I also give suggestions for sleeping near Paris’ airports.
Reserve ahead for Paris—the sooner, the better. In August and at other times when business is slower, some hotels offer lower rates to fill their rooms. Check hotel websites for the best deals.
Old, characteristic, budget Parisian hotels have always been cramped. Retrofitted with private bathrooms and elevators (as most are today), they are even more cramped. Hotel elevators are often very small—pack light, or you may need to send your bags up separately.
Get suggestions from your hotelier for safe parking (for parking basics, see here).
(7th arrondissement, postal code: 75007, Mo: Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, or Invalides)
Rue Cler, lined with open-air produce stands, is a safe, tidy, village-like pedestrian street. It’s so French that when I step out of my hotel in the morning, I feel like I must have been a poodle in a previous life. How such coziness lodged itself between the high-powered government district, the Eiffel Tower, and Les Invalides, I’ll never know. This is a neighborhood of wide, tree-lined boulevards, stately apartment buildings, and lots of Americans. The American Church and Franco-American Center (see here), American Library, American University, and many of my readers call this area home. Hotels here are a relatively good value, considering the elegance of the neighborhood. And for sightseeing, you’re within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, Army Museum, Quai Branly Museum, Seine River, Champs-Elysées, and Orsay and Rodin museums.
Become a local at a Rue Cler café for breakfast, or join the afternoon crowd for une bière pression (a draft beer). On Rue Cler you can eat and browse your way through a street full of cafés, pastry shops, delis, cheese shops, and colorful outdoor produce stalls. Afternoon boules (outdoor bowling) on the Esplanade des Invalides is a relaxing spectator sport (look for the dirt area to the upper right as you face the front of Les Invalides). The manicured gardens behind the golden dome of the Army Museum are free, peaceful, and filled with flowers (at southwest corner of grounds, closes at about 19:00).
Though hardly a happening nightlife spot, Rue Cler offers many low-impact after-dark activities. Take an evening stroll above the river through the parkway between Pont de l’Alma and Pont des Invalides. For an after-dinner cruise on the Seine, it’s a 15-minute walk to the river and the Bateaux-Mouches (see here). For a post-dinner cruise on foot, saunter into the Champ de Mars park to admire the glowing Eiffel Tower. For more ideas on Paris after hours, see “Entertainment in Paris,” earlier.
Breakfast on Rue Cler: For a great Rue Cler start to your day, drop by Brasserie Aux PTT, where Rick Steves readers are promised a deux pour douze breakfast special (two “American” breakfasts—juice, a big coffee, croissant, bread, ham, and eggs—for €12; closed Sun, opposite 53 Rue Cler). For a continental breakfast for about €6, try nearby Café le Bosquet (closed Sun, 46 Avenue Bosquet). They are described in more detail on here.
Services: There’s a large post office at the end of Rue Cler on Avenue de la Motte-Picquet and a handy SNCF Boutique at 80 Rue St. Dominique (Mon-Sat 8:30-19:30, closed Sun, get there when it opens to avoid a long wait). At both of these offices, take a number and wait your turn. A smaller post office is closer to the Eiffel Tower on Avenue Rapp, one block past Rue St. Dominique toward the river. You can buy your Paris Museum Pass at Tabac La Cave à Cigares on Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, across from where the Rue Cler ends.
Markets: Cross the Champ de Mars park to mix it up with bargain-hunters at the twice-weekly open-air market, Marché Boulevard de Grenelle, under the Métro, a few blocks southwest of the Champ de Mars park (Wed and Sun 7:00-12:30, between Mo: Dupleix and Mo: La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle). Two minuscule grocery stores, both on Rue de Grenelle, are open until midnight: Epicerie de la Tour (at #197) and Alimentation (at corner with Rue Cler). Rue St. Dominique is the area’s boutique-browsing street and well worth a visit if shopping for clothes.
Internet Access: Com Avenue is good (about €5/hour, shareable and multi-use accounts, Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, 24 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 45 55 00 07).
Laundry: Launderettes are omnipresent; ask your hotel for the nearest. Here are three handy locations: on Rue Augereau, on Rue Amélie (both between Rue St. Dominique and Rue de Grenelle), and at the southeast corner of Rue Valadon and Rue de Grenelle.
Booking Agency: To find a hotel room, book “coupe-file” tickets that allow you to skip the line at key sights, buy the Paris Museum Pass, or for assistance with hotels, transportation, local guides, or excursions, contact the helpful staff at Paris Webservices (discount off many services with current edition of this book, use code “PWS52K15” when booking; Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-18:00, 12 Rue de l’Exposition, Mo: Ecole Militaire, RER: Pont de l’Alma, tel. 01 45 56 91 67, pariswebservices.com, contactpws@pariswebservices.com).
Métro Connections: Key Métro stops are Ecole Militaire, La Tour Maubourg, and Invalides. The useful RER-C line runs from the Pont de l’Alma and Invalides stations, serving Versailles to the southwest; the Marmottan Museum to the northwest; and the Orsay Museum, Latin Quarter (St. Michel stop), and Austerlitz train station to the east.
Bus Routes: Smart travelers take advantage of these bus routes (see map on here for stop locations):
Line #69 runs east along Rue St. Dominique and serves Les Invalides, Orsay, Louvre, Marais, and Père Lachaise Cemetery.
Line #63 runs along the river (the Quai d’Orsay), serving the Latin Quarter along Boulevard St. Germain to the east (ending at Gare de Lyon), and Trocadéro and areas near the Marmottan Museum to the west.
Line #92 runs along Avenue Bosquet, north to the Champs-Elysées and Arc de Triomphe (faster than the Métro) and south to the Montparnasse Tower and Gare Montparnasse.
Line #87 runs from Avenue Joseph Bouvard in the Champ de Mars park up Avenue de la Bourdonnais and serves the Sèvres-Babylone shopping area, St. Sulpice Church, Luxembourg Garden, the Bastille, and Gare de Lyon (also more convenient than Métro for these destinations).
Line #80 runs on Avenue Bosquet, crosses the Champs-Elysées, stops near the Jacquemart-André Museum, and serves Gare St. Lazare.
Line #28 runs on Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg and serves Gare St. Lazare.
Line #42 runs from Avenue Joseph Bouvard in the Champs de Mars park (same stop as #87), crosses the Champs-Elysées at the Rond-Point, then heads to Place de la Concorde, Place de la Madeleine, Opéra Garnier, and finally to Gare du Nord—a long ride to the train station but less tiring than the Métro if you’re carrying suitcases.
Many of my readers stay in the Rue Cler neighborhood. If you want to disappear into Paris, choose a hotel elsewhere. The following hotels are within Camembert-smelling distance of Rue Cler.
$$$ Hôtel Relais Bosquet*** is a fine hotel in an ideal location, with comfortable public spaces and well-configured rooms that are large by local standards and feature effective darkness blinds. The staff are politely formal. Ask about discounts with this book if you book direct, though you’ll often get better rates by “liking” the hotel on Facebook. Book well in advance for the best rates, which vary enormously based on demand (standard Db-€160-275, bigger Db-€175-295, superior Db-€195-315, extra bed-€30, good €15 breakfast buffet with eggs and sausage, 19 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 47 05 25 45, hotel-paris-bosquet.com, hotel@relaisbosquet.com).
$$$ Hôtel du Cadran***, perfectly located a boule toss from Rue Cler, is daringly modern—with a chocolat-et-macaron shop/bar in the lobby, efficient staff, and über-stylish and tight rooms featuring cool colors and mood lighting (Db-€280-320; discount off lowest rates—including Internet deals—and free, big breakfast when you use the code “RICK” and book by email or through their website; 10 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 40 62 67 00, cadranhotel.com, resa@cadranhotel.com).
$$$ Hôtel Valadon***, almost across the street, is really an annex of Hôtel du Cadran (listed above), where you’ll check in and have breakfast. The Valadron’s 12 cute-and-quiet rooms are larger than those at the Cadran, with the same comfort, prices, and discounts (Tb available, one good family suite, 16 Rue Valadon, tel. 01 47 53 89 85, hotelvaladon.com, info@hotelvaladon.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Motte Picquet***, at the corner of Rue Cler and Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, is an intimate, modest little place with narrow halls, comfortable but compact rooms, and a terrific staff. Rooms on the street come with a little noise but are generally larger and brighter (standard Db-€150, bigger Db-€230, Tb/Qb-€270-350, 30 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 47 05 09 57, hotelmottepicquetparis.com, book@hotelmottepicquetparis.com, Moe and Vanessa).
$$ Hôtel Beaugency***, a good value on a quieter street a short block off Rue Cler, has 30 smallish rooms with standard furnishings and a lobby that you can stretch out in (Sb-€120, Db-€155, twin Db-€165, occasional discounts for Rick Steves readers—ask when you book, 21 Rue Duvivier, tel. 01 47 05 01 63, hotel-beaugency.com, infos@hotel-beaugency.com).
Warning: The next two hotels are very busy with my readers (reserve long in advance).
$$ Grand Hôtel Lévêque**, ideally located on Rue Cler, is all about location. It’s a busy place with a sliver-size elevator, a sleek breakfast room that doubles as a lounge, and unreliable service but fairly priced, sufficiently comfortable accommodations. This hotel receives more than its share of complaints, but the location and price may make it worth a try. Rooms on Rue Cler come with fun views but morning noise as the market sets up (S-€90-120, Db-€180, Tb-€210, 29 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 49 15, hotel-leveque.com, info@hotel-leveque.com).
$ Hôtel du Champ de Mars**, a cozy option 10 steps from Rue Cler, has adorable rooms and serious owners Françoise and Stephane. This plush little hotel has a small-town feel from top to bottom. The rooms are snug but lovingly kept, and single rooms can work as tiny doubles. It’s an excellent value despite the lack of air-conditioning (Sb-€105, Db-€125, 30 yards off Rue Cler at 7 Rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 45 51 52 30, hotelduchampdemars.com, reservation@hotelduchampdemars.com).
The following listings are a five-minute walk from Rue Cler, near the Ecole Militaire Métro stop or RER: Pont de l’Alma.
$$$ Hôtel Duquesne Eiffel***, a few blocks farther from the action, is calm, hospitable, and very comfortable. It features handsome rooms (some with terrific Eiffel Tower views), a welcoming lobby, and a big, hot breakfast for €13 (Db-€190-260, price grows with room size, Tb-€220-300, ask about discount with this book, 23 Avenue Duquesne, tel. 01 44 42 09 09, hde.fr, contact@hde.fr).
$$$ Hôtel Splendid***, at a major intersection near the Ecole Militaire Métro stop, offers adequate comfort with faded furnishings. A number of rooms have a sensational Eiffel Tower view (Sb-€140-190, Db-€170-230, Db view rooms and suites-€250-350, pay Wi-Fi, small bar, deals for Rick Steves readers, 29 Avenue de Tourville, tel. 01 45 51 29 29, hotel-splendid-paris.com, reservation@hotel-splendid-paris.com), helpful Dennis at reception.
$$$ Hôtel de France Invalides** is a fair mid-range option away from most other hotels I list. It’s run by a brother-sister team (Alain and Marie-Hélène) with a small bar/lounge and 60 well-maintained rooms, some with knockout views of Invalides’ golden dome, but no air-conditioning. Rooms on the courtyard are very quiet, while those on the Les Invalides side face a large street (Sb-€140, standard Db-€150-300, ask about discount with this book, connecting rooms possible for families, 102 Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg, tel. 01 47 05 40 49, hoteldefrance.com, contact@hoteldefrance.com).
$$ Hôtel Eiffel Turenne** is a fair two-star bet with comfortable rooms at OK rates and a lobby with windows on the world. There are five true singles and several connecting rooms good for families (Sb-€130, Db-€150-200, Tb-€190-230, Wi-Fi only, 20 Avenue de Tourville, tel. 01 47 05 99 92, hotel-turenne.com, reservation@hoteleiffelturenne.com).
$ Hôtel Royal Phare**, facing the busy Ecole Militaire Métro stop, is a humble place with 34 unimaginative but perfectly sleepable rooms. Rooms on the courtyard are quietest, with peek-a-boo views of the Eiffel Tower from the fifth floor up (Sb-€100, Db with shower-€125, Tb-€140, fridges in rooms, no air-con but fans, no Wi-Fi, 40 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 47 05 57 30, hotel-royalphare-paris.com, hotel-royalphare@wanadoo.fr, friendly manager Hocin).
$$ Hôtel de Londres Eiffel*** is my closest listing to the Eiffel Tower and the Champ de Mars park. Here you get immaculate, warmly decorated rooms (several are connecting for families), snazzy public spaces, and a service-oriented staff. Some rooms are pretty small—request a bigger room. It’s less convenient to the Métro (10-minute walk), but very handy to buses #69, #80, #87, and #92, and to RER-C: Pont de l’Alma (Sb-€175, small Db-€190, bigger Db-€205, Db with Eiffel Tower view-€230, Tb-€270, 1 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 45 51 63 02, hotel-paris-londres-eiffel.com, info@londres-eiffel.com, helpful Cédric and Arnaud). The owners also run a good two-star hotel with similar comfort in the cheaper Montparnasse area, $$ Hôtel Apollon Montparnasse (Db-€140-170, look for Web deals, 91 Rue de l’Ouest, Mo: Pernety, tel. 01 43 95 62 00, apollon-montparnasse.com, info@apollon-montparnasse.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Tulipe***, three blocks from Rue Cler toward the river, has great street appeal. The 20 small and simple rooms surround a seductive, wood-beamed lounge and a small, leafy courtyard (no picnics, please). Ask about a discount when you book direct with this book (Sb-€170, Db-€170-210, Tb-€195-240, 4-person apartment-€270-350, 2-room suite for up to 5 people-€400, no air-con, no elevator, 33 Rue Malar, tel. 01 45 51 67 21, paris-hotel-tulipe.com, hoteldelatulipe@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel de la Tour Eiffel** is a good two-star value on a quiet street near several of my favorite restaurants. The rooms are well-designed and comfortable, but some have thin walls and none have air-conditioning (snug Db-€110, bigger Db-€120-140, Wi-Fi only, 17 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 14 75, hotel-toureiffel.com, hte7@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel Kensington** is a good budget value close to the Eiffel Tower and run by elegant, though formal, Daniele. It’s an unpretentious place with mostly small, basic, but well-kept rooms (Sb-€76, Db-€97, bigger Db on back side-€118, Eiffel Tower views for those who ask, no air-con, pay guest computer, 79 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 74 00, hotel-kensington.com, hk@hotel-kensington.com).
These listings are within three blocks of the intersection of Avenue de la Motte-Picquet and Boulevard de la Tour Maubourg.
$$$ Hôtel Les Jardins d’Eiffel***, on a quiet street, feels like the modern motel it is, with professional service, its own parking garage (€24/day), and a spacious lobby. The 80 well-configured rooms—some with partial Eiffel Tower views, some with balconies—offer a bit more space and quiet than other hotels (standard Db-€250-310, ask about Rick Steves discount when you book direct, check website for discounts, 8 Rue Amélie, tel. 01 47 05 46 21, hoteljardinseiffel.com, reservations@hoteljardinseiffel.com).
$$$ Hôtel Muguet*** is a peaceful, immaculate refuge with good rates. This delightful spot offers 43 tasteful rooms with wood furnishings, a greenhouse lounge, and a small garden courtyard. The hands-on manager, Charlene, gives her guests a restful and secure home in Paris (Sb-€140-175, Db-€150-225—more with view, Tb-€225-275, strict cancellation policy: cancel 7 days before arrival or lose deposit, 11 Rue Chevert, tel. 01 47 05 05 93, hotelparismuguet.com, muguet@wanadoo.fr).
$$$ Hôtel de l’Empereur** is stylish and delivers smashing views of Invalides from many of its fine rooms. All rooms have queen-size beds, are tastefully designed, and are large by Paris standards (Sb-€140-175, Db-€150-250—more with view, Tb-€225-275, two-room Qb-€300-400, strict cancellation policy: cancel 7 days before arrival or lose deposit, 2 Rue Chevert, tel. 01 45 55 88 02, hotelempereurparis.com, contact@hotelempereur.com).
Given how fine this area is, these are acceptable last choices.
$$ Derby Eiffel Hôtel***, a few blocks from the Ecole Militaire Métro stop, has a comfortable lobby and average rooms in need of a little TLC (Db-€140-180, Tb-€170-200, 5 Avenue Duquesne, tel. 01 47 05 12 05, hotelderbyeiffel.com, derbyeiffelhotel@orange.fr).
$ Hôtel Prince**, across from the Ecole Militaire Métro stop, has a spartan lobby, drab halls, and plain-but-acceptable rooms for the price (Sb-€109, Db-€130, Tb-€150, Wi-Fi only, 66 Avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 47 05 40 90, hotel-paris-prince.com, paris@hotel-prince.com).
Those interested in a more central, diverse, and lively urban locale should make the Marais their Parisian home. Once a forgotten Parisian backwater, the Marais—which runs from the Pompidou Center east to the Bastille (a 15-minute walk)—is now one of Paris’ most popular residential, tourist, and shopping areas. This is jumbled, medieval Paris at its finest, where classy stone mansions sit alongside trendy bars, antique shops, and fashion-conscious boutiques. The streets are a fascinating parade of artists, students, tourists, immigrants, and baguette-munching babies in strollers. The Marais is also known as a hub of the Parisian gay and lesbian scene. This area is sans doubt livelier (and louder) than the Rue Cler area.
In the Marais you have these major sights close at hand: the Carnavalet Museum, Victor Hugo’s House, the Jewish Art and History Museum, the Pompidou Center, and the Picasso Museum. You’re also a manageable walk from Paris’ two islands (Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cité), home to Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. The Opéra Bastille, Promenade Plantée park, Place des Vosges (Paris’ oldest square), Jewish Quarter (Rue des Rosiers), the Latin Quarter, and nightlife-packed Rue de Lappe are also walkable. Strolling home (day or night) from Notre-Dame along Ile St. Louis is marvelous.
Most of my recommended hotels are located a few blocks north of the Marais’ main east-west drag, Rue St. Antoine/Rue de Rivoli.
Tourist Information: The nearest TI is at the Pyramides Métro station (daily May-Oct 9:00-19:00, Nov-April 10:00-19:00).
Services: Most banks and other services are on the main street, Rue de Rivoli, which becomes Rue St. Antoine as it heads east. Marais post offices are on Rue Castex and at the corner of Rue Pavée and Rue des Francs Bourgeois. There’s a busy SNCF Boutique where you can take care of all train needs on Rue St. Antoine at Rue de Turenne (Mon-Fri 8:00-20:30, Sat 10:00-20:30, closed Sun). A quieter SNCF Boutique is nearer Gare de Lyon at 5 Rue de Lyon (Mon-Sat 8:30-18:00, closed Sun).
Markets: The Marais has three good farmers’ markets close by: the sprawling Marché de la Bastille, along Boulevard Richard Lenoir, on the north side of Place de la Bastille (Thu and Sun until 14:30); the Marché d’Aligre (Tue-Sat 9:00-14, closed Mon, from Mo: Ledru-Rollin, walk east with your back to the Bastille column, veer right at the second traffic light onto Rue Crozatier); and Paris’ oldest covered market, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, a 10-minute walk north of Rue de Rivoli. A small grocery is open until 23:00 on Rue St. Antoine (near intersection with Rue Castex). To shop at a Parisian Sears, find the BHV department store next to Hôtel de Ville.
Internet Access: Try Paris CY (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, closed Sun, 8 Rue de Jouy, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 42 71 37 37).
Laundry: Launderettes are scattered throughout the Marais; ask your hotelier for the nearest. Here are three you can count on: on Impasse Guéménée (north of Rue St. Antoine), on Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie (just east of Rue du Temple), and on Rue du Petit Musc (south of Rue St. Antoine).
Métro Connections: Key Métro stops in the Marais are, from east to west: Bastille, St. Paul, and Hôtel de Ville (Sully-Morland, Pont Marie, and Rambuteau stops are also handy). Métro connections are excellent, with direct service to the Louvre, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, and La Défense (all on line 1); the Rue Cler area and Opéra Garnier (line 8 from Bastille stop); and four major train stations: Gare de Lyon, Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, and Gare d’Austerlitz (all accessible from Bastille stop).
Bus Routes: For stop locations, see the “Marais Hotels” map.
Line #69 on Rue St. Antoine takes you eastbound to Père Lachaise Cemetery and westbound to the Louvre, Orsay, and Rodin museums, plus the Army Museum, ending at the Eiffel Tower.
Line #87 runs down Boulevard Henri IV, crossing Ile St. Louis and serving the Latin Quarter along Boulevard St. Germain, before heading to St. Sulpice Church/Luxembourg Garden, the Eiffel Tower, and the Rue Cler neighborhood to the west. The same line, running in the opposite direction, brings you to Gare de Lyon.
Line #96 runs on Rues Turenne and Rivoli, serves Ile de la Cité and St. Sulpice Church (near Luxembourg Garden), and ends at Gare Montparnasse.
Line #65 runs from Gare de Lyon up Rue de Lyon, around Place de la Bastille, and then up Boulevard Beaumarchais to Gare de l’Est and Gare du Nord.
Line #67 runs from Place d’Italie to the Jardin des Plantes (just south of the Seine), across Ile St. Louis (on Boulevard Henri IV), along Rue de Rivoli past the Louvre, then up to Montmartre.
Taxis: You’ll find taxi stands on Place de la Bastille (where Boulevard Richard Lenoir meets the square), on the south side of Rue St. Antoine (in front of St. Paul Church), behind the Hôtel de Ville on Rue du Lobau (where it meets Rue de Rivoli), and a quieter one on the north side of Rue St. Antoine (where it meets Rue Castex).
(3rd and 4th arrondissements, postal code: 75004, Mo: Bastille, St. Paul, or Hôtel de Ville)
$$$ Hôtel le Pavillon de la Reine****, 15 steps off the beautiful Place des Vosges, merits its stars with top service and comfort and exquisite attention to detail, from its melt-in-your-couch lobby to its luxurious rooms (Db-€470-900, price varies with room size, 28 Place des Vosges, tel. 01 44 59 80 40, pavillon-de-la-reine.com, contact@pavillon-de-la-reine.com).
$$$ Hôtel St. Paul le Marais*** is well-located with a stay-awhile lobby, small garden patio, and traditional but pricey rooms (Sb-€200, Db-€200-250, 8 Rue de Sevigné, tel. 01 48 04 97 27, hotelsaintpaullemarais.com, reservation@hotelsaintpaullemarais.com).
$$ Hôtel Castex***, on a quiet street near Place de la Bastille, is a well-located place with comfortable but narrow and tile-floored rooms (that amplify noise). Their clever system of connecting rooms allows families total privacy between two rooms, each with its own bathroom (Sb-€169, Db-€199, Tb-€239, Qb in two adjoining rooms-€398, ask about free buffet breakfast with this book, just off Place de la Bastille and Rue St. Antoine at 5 Rue Castex, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 31 52, castexhotel.com, info@castexhotel.com).
$$ Hôtel Bastille Spéria***, a short block off Place de la Bastille, offers modern, business-type service and good comfort in a great location. The 42 well-configured rooms are relatively spacious, simply appointed, and well-priced (Sb-€145-165, Db-€180-205, good buffet breakfast-€13, 1 Rue de la Bastille, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 04 01, hotelsperia.com, info@hotelsperia.com).
$$ Hôtel St. Louis Marais***, an intimate and sharp little hotel, lies on a quiet street a few blocks from the river. The handsome rooms come with character and fair rates (Db-€175-230, 1 Rue Charles V, Mo: Sully-Morland, tel. 01 48 87 87 04, saintlouismarais.com).
$ Hôtel du 7ème Art**, two blocks south of Rue St. Antoine toward the river, is a young, carefree, Hollywood-nostalgia place with a full-service café-bar and Charlie Chaplin murals. Its 23 good-value rooms have brown 1970s decor and faded carpets, but the price is fair. Sadly, smoking is allowed in all rooms. The large rooms are American-spacious (small Db-€110, standard Db-€125, large Db-€140-170, Tb-€160-190, extra bed-€20, no elevator, 20 Rue St. Paul, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 44 54 85 00, paris-hotel-7art.com, hotel7art@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel de la Place des Vosges** has simple wood-floored rooms and is brilliantly located between Rue St. Antoine and Place des Vosges. Amenities are sparse, there’s no air-conditioning, the management is formal, and the elevator skips floors five and six, but the price is right (Db-€125-170, Tb-€190, 12 Rue de Biraque, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 42 72 60 46, hotelplacedesvosges.com, contact@hpdv.net).
$ Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc**, a lovely little hotel with thoughtfully appointed rooms, is ideally located for (and very popular with) connoisseurs of the Marais. It’s an exceptional value and worth booking way ahead (three months in advance, if possible). Sixth-floor rooms have views, and corner rooms are wonderfully bright in the City of Light. Rooms on the street can be noisy until the bars close (Sb-€65-96, Db-€96, larger twin Db-€119, Tb-€149, good Qb-€164, no air-con, Wi-Fi only—in lobby, 3 Rue de Jarente, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 48 87 62 11, lesvoixdejeanne.com, information@hoteljeannedarc.com).
$ Sully Hôtel, right on Rue St. Antoine, is a basic, cheap dive run by no-nonsense Monsieur Zeroual. The rooms are frumpy, dimly lit, and can smell of smoke, and the entry is dark and narrow, but the price fits. Two can spring for a triple for more room (Db-€90, Tb-€110, Qb-€120, no elevator, no air-con, Wi-Fi only, 48 Rue St. Antoine, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 42 78 49 32, sullyhotelparis.com, sullyhotel@orange.fr).
$ Hôtel Pratic, just off the quiet and charming Place du Sainte Catherine, works for travelers who don’t mind squeezing sideways to make it past the bed into the bathroom. The half-timbered interior gives this hotel a modest level of charm, but also makes for dark hallways (Sb-€69, Db-€95-130, more for rooms with view of square, no elevator, no air-con, 9 Rue d’Ormesson, tel. 01 48 87 80 47, pratichotelparis.com, pratic.hotel@wanadoo.fr).
$ MIJE Youth Hostels: The Maison Internationale de la Jeunesse et des Etudiants (MIJE) runs three classy old residences, ideal for budget travelers who are at least 18 years old or traveling with someone who is. Each is well-maintained, with simple, clean, single-sex (unless your group takes a whole room), one- to four-bed rooms for travelers of any age. The hostels are MIJE Fourcy (biggest and loudest, €11 dinners available with a membership card, 6 Rue de Fourcy, just south of Rue de Rivoli), MIJE Fauconnier (no elevator, 11 Rue du Fauconnier), and MIJE Maubisson (smallest and quietest, no outdoor terrace, 12 Rue des Barres). None have double beds or air-conditioning; all have private showers in every room (all prices per person: Sb-€51, Db-€38, Tb-€34, Qb-€31, includes breakfast but not towels, required membership card-€2.50 extra/person, 7-day maximum stay, rooms locked 12:00-15:00, curfew at 1:00 in the morning). They all share the same contact information (tel. 01 42 74 23 45, mije.com, info@mije.com) and Métro stop (St. Paul). Reservations are accepted (six weeks ahead online, 10 days ahead by phone)—though you must show up by noon, or call the morning of arrival to confirm a later arrival time.
(11th arrondissement, postal code: 75011, Mo: Bastille or Bréguet-Sabin)
These cheaper hotels are located a 10-minute walk from the Place des Vosges.
$$ Hôtel Ibis** is well-run and massive, with 300 reasonably priced, modern, comfortable rooms and a lobby with guest computers and room to roam. Amenities include a dirt-cheap restaurant and private parking (Db-€160, 15 Rue Breguet, Mo: Bréguet–Sabin, tel. 01 49 29 20 20, ibishotel.com).
$ Hôtel Daval**, an unassuming and well-run place on the wild side of Place de la Bastille, is ideal for night owls. The 23 rooms are small and modest with ship cabin-like bathrooms, but clean and well-maintained, and the rates are good for an air-conditioned place. Ask for a quieter room on the courtyard side (Sb-€95, Db-€110, Tb-€130, Wi-Fi only, 21 Rue Daval, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 47 00 51 23, hoteldaval.com, hoteldaval@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel Bastille**, a few steps from Place de la Bastille and in the thick of the action, is charmingly run by Madame Any (pron. “Annie”). The hotel was undergoing renovation when I visited last, so prices were not available, but rates should be fair (may be closed in 2015, 24 Rue de la Roquette, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 47 00 06 71, hotel.bastille@yahoo.fr).
(4th arrondissement, postal code: 75004, Mo: St-Paul, Hôtel de Ville, or Rambuteau)
These hotels are farther west, closer to the Pompidou Center than to Place de la Bastille.
$$ Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais***, on a busy corner, offers 19 pricey but cared-for and character-filled rooms. Its small lobby is cluttered with bits from an elegant 18th-century Marais house (small Db in back-€170, larger Db facing the front-€200, Wi-Fi only, 12 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 34 12, carondebeaumarchais.com, hotel@carondebeaumarchais.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Bretonnerie***, three blocks from the Hôtel de Ville, makes a fine Marais home. It has a warm, welcoming lobby and 29 well-appointed, good-value rooms with an antique, open-beam warmth but no air-conditioning (standard “classic” Db-€155, bigger “charming” Db-€185, Db suite-€210, Tb/Qb-€235, between Rue Vieille du Temple and Rue des Archives at 22 Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, tel. 01 48 87 77 63, bretonnerie.com, hotel@bretonnerie.com).
$$ Hôtel Beaubourg*** is a terrific three-star value on a small street in the shadow of the Pompidou Center. The lounge is inviting, and the 28 plush and traditional rooms are well-appointed and quiet (standard Db-€145, bigger twin or king-size Db-€165 and worth the extra cost, Db suite-€230, 11 Rue Simon Le Franc, Mo: Rambuteau, tel. 01 42 74 34 24, beaubourg-paris-hotel.com, reservation@hotelbeaubourg.com).
$ Hôtel de Nice**, on the Marais’ busy main drag, features a turquoise-and-fuchsia “Marie-Antoinette-does-tie-dye” decor. Its narrow halls are littered with paintings and layered with carpets, and its 23 Old World rooms have thoughtful touches and tight bathrooms. Twin rooms, which cost the same as doubles, are larger. Rooms on the street come with some noise (Sb-€85-150, Db-€115-200, Tb-€145-210, reception on second floor, 42 bis Rue de Rivoli, tel. 01 42 78 55 29, hoteldenice.com, contact@hoteldenice.com, laissez-faire management).
$ Hôtel du Loiret* is a centrally located and rare Marais budget hotel. It’s simple with tight bathrooms, but the rooms are surprisingly sharp, considering the price and location (Db-€105, Tb-€150, no air-con, expect some noise, 8 Rue des Mauvais Garçons, tel. 01 48 87 77 00, hotel-du-loiret.fr, hotelduloiret@hotmail.com).
(3rd arrondissement, postal code: 75003, Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Temple)
$$ Hôtel du Vieux Saule*** has 27 simple rooms with little character in a good location. Rooms are tight and modern. Avoid the smoking rooms on the first floor (Sb-€95-140, Db-€110-160, supérieure Db-€145-190, deluxe Db-€180-250, rates vary greatly with season, check online for best deals, small sauna free for guests, 6 Rue de Picardie, Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Temple, tel. 01 42 72 01 14, hotelvieuxsaule.com, reserv@hotelvieuxsaule.com).
$$ Hôtel Saintonge*** is a just-renovated, comfortable place in a great location a stone’s throw from appealing Rue de Bretagne (Db-€130-170, 16 Rue Saintonge, Mo: Filles du Calvaire, tel. 01 42 77 91 13, hotelsaintongeparis.com, info@hotel-saintonge.com).
(4th arrondissement, postal code: 75004, Mo: Pont Marie or Sully-Morland)
The peaceful, residential character of this river-wrapped island, with its brilliant location and homemade ice cream, has drawn Americans for decades. There are no budget values here—all of the hotels are three-star or more—though prices are reasonable for the level of comfort. The island’s village ambience and proximity to the Marais, Notre-Dame, and the Latin Quarter make this area well worth considering. All of the following hotels are on the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, where I list several restaurants (see here). For nearby services, see the Marais neighborhood section; for locations, see the Marais Hotels map, earlier.
$$$ Hôtel du Jeu de Paume****, occupying a 17th-century tennis center, is among the most expensive hotels I list in Paris. When you enter its magnificent lobby, you’ll understand why. Greet Scoop, le chien, then take a spin in the glass elevator for a half-timbered-tree-house experience. The 30 rooms are carefully designed and tasteful, though not particularly spacious (you’re paying for the location and public areas). Most rooms face a small garden; all are pin-drop peaceful (Sb-€190-260, standard Db-€290-370, deluxe Db-€460-570, 2-3-room suite-€630-920, breakfast-€18, 54 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 14 18, jeudepaumehotel.com, info@jeudepaumehotel.com).
$$$ Hôtel de Lutèce*** comes with a welcoming wood-paneled lobby and a real fireplace. Rooms at this appealing hotel are handsome, and those on lower floors have high ceilings. Twin rooms are larger and the same price as double rooms. Rooms with bathtubs are on the louder street-side, while those with showers are on the courtyard (Db-€230, Tb-€260, 65 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 23 52, hoteldelutece.com, info@hoteldelutece.com).
$$ Hôtel des Deux-Iles*** has the same owners and same prices as the Lutèce (listed above), with four single rooms (€200) and a tad less personality (59 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 26 13 35, hoteldesdeuxiles.com, info@hoteldesdeuxiles.com).
$$ Hôtel Saint-Louis*** blends character with modern comforts. The well-maintained rooms come with cool stone floors and exposed beams. Rates are reasonable...for the location (Db-€175-195, top-floor Db with micro-balcony-€245, Tb-€289, iPads available for guest in-room use, 75 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 34 04 80, hotelsaintlouis.com, slouis@noos.fr).
This neighborhood revolves around Paris’ loveliest park and offers quick access to the city’s best shopping streets and grandest café-hopping. Hotels in this central area run the gamut from cheap sleeps to pricey boutique places. Sleeping in the Luxembourg area offers a true Left Bank experience without a hint of the low-end commotion of the nearby Latin Quarter tourist ghetto. The Luxembourg Garden, Boulevard St. Germain, Cluny Museum, and Latin Quarter are all at your doorstep. Here you get the best of both worlds: youthful Left Bank energy and the classic trappings that surround the monumental Panthéon and St. Sulpice Church.
Having the Luxembourg Garden as your backyard allows strolls through meticulously cared-for flowers, a great kids’ play area, and a purifying escape from city traffic. Place St. Sulpice presents an elegant, pedestrian-friendly square and quick access to some of Paris’ best boutiques. Sleeping in the Luxembourg area also puts several movie theaters at your fingertips (at Métro stop: Odéon), as well as lively cafés on Boulevard St. Germain, Rue de Buci, Rue des Canettes, Place de la Sorbonne, and Place de la Contrescarpe, all of which buzz with action until late.
While it takes only 15 minutes to walk from one end of this neighborhood to the other, I’ve located the hotels by the key monument they are close to (St. Sulpice Church, the Odéon Theater, and the Panthéon). Most hotels are within a five-minute walk of the Luxembourg Garden (and none is more than 15 minutes away).
Services: The nearest TI is across the river at the Pyramides Métro station (daily May-Oct 9:00-19:00, Nov-April 10:00-19:00). There are two useful SNCF Boutiques for easy train reservations and ticket purchases: at 79 Rue de Rennes (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, closed Sun) and at 54 Boulevard St. Michel (Mon-Fri 8:15-19:45, Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun).
Markets: The colorful street market at the south end of Rue Mouffetard is a worthwhile 10- to 15-minute walk from these hotels (Tue-Sat 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-13:00, closed Mon, five blocks south of Place de la Contrescarpe, Mo: Place Monge).
Bookstore: San Francisco Book Company is a welcoming bookstore with a full selection of secondhand English-language books, including mine (Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 14:00-19:30, 17 Rue Monsieur le Prince, tel. 01 43 29 15 70).
Internet Access: Try Cyber Cube at 5 Rue Mignon (Mon-Sat 10:00-10:00, closed Sun).
Métro Connections: Métro lines 10 and 4 serve this area (10 connects to the Austerlitz train station, and 4 runs to the Montparnasse, Est, and Nord train stations). Neighborhood stops are Cluny-La Sorbonne, Mabillon, Odéon, and St. Sulpice. RER-B (Luxembourg station is handiest) provides direct service to Charles de Gaulle airport and Gare du Nord trains, and access to Orly airport via the Orlybus (transfer at Denfert-Rochereau) or via Orlyval trains (transfer at Antony RER station).
Bus Routes: Buses #86 and #87 run eastbound through this area on or near Boulevard St. Germain, and westbound along Rue des Ecoles, stopping on Place St. Sulpice. Lines #63 and #87 provide a direct connection west to the Rue Cler area. Line #63 also serves the Orsay and Marmottan museums to the west and Gare de Lyon to the east. Lines #86 and #87 run east to the Marais, and #87 continues to Gare de Lyon. Line #96 stops at Place St. Sulpice southbound en route to Gare Montparnasse and runs north along Rue de Rennes and Boulevard St. Germain into the Marais.
(6th arrondissement, postal code: 75006, Mo: St. Sulpice, Rennes, Sevres-Babylone, Mabilon, Odéon, or Saint-Germain-des-Prés; RER: Luxembourg)
These hotels are all within a block of St. Sulpice Church and two blocks from famous Boulevard St. Germain. This is nirvana for boutique-minded shoppers—and you’ll pay extra for the location.
$$$ Hôtel de l’Abbaye**** is a lovely refuge just west of Luxembourg Garden; it’s a find for well-heeled connoisseurs of this area. The hotel’s four-star luxury includes refined lounges inside and out, with 44 sumptuous rooms and every amenity (standard Db-€275-287, bigger Db-€395-427, suites and apartments available for €495-595, includes breakfast, 10 Rue Cassette, tel. 01 45 44 38 11, hotelabbayeparis.com, hotel.abbaye@wanadoo.fr).
$$$ Hôtel le Récamier**, romantically tucked in the corner of Place St. Sulpice, is high-end defined, with designer public spaces, elaborately appointed rooms, a courtyard tea salon serving complimentary tea and treats in the afternoon, and professional service (classic Db-€260, deluxe Db-€300, traditional Db-€335, deluxe rooms offer best value, connecting family rooms available, 3 bis Place St. Sulpice, tel. 01 43 26 04 89, hotelrecamier.com, contact@hotelrecamier.com).
$$$ Hôtel Relais St. Sulpice***, burrowed on the small street just behind St. Sulpice Church, is a high-priced boutique hotel with a cozy lounge and 26 dark, stylish rooms, most surrounding a leafy glass atrium. Top-floor rooms get more light and are worth requesting (Db-€229-280 depending on size, much less off-season, sauna free for guests, 3 Rue Garancière, tel. 01 46 33 99 00, relais-saint-sulpice.com, relaisstsulpice@wanadoo.fr).
$$$ Hôtel la Perle*** is a spendy pearl in the thick of the lively Rue des Canettes, a block off Place St. Sulpice. This modern, business-class hotel is built around a central bar and atrium (standard Db-€233, bigger Db-€251, luxury Db-€290, check website for deals, 14 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 43 29 10 10, hotellaperle.com, frontdesk@hotellaperle.com).
$ Hôtel Bonaparte***, an unpretentious and welcoming place wedged between boutiques, is a few steps from Place St. Sulpice. Although the 29 Old World rooms don’t live up to the handsome entry, they’re plenty comfortable and spacious by Paris standards, with big bathrooms and traditional decor (Sb-€104-128, Db-€130-169, Tb-€171, 61 Rue Bonaparte, tel. 01 43 26 97 37, hotelbonaparte.fr, reservation@hotelbonaparte.fr; helpful Fréderic and owner Eric at reception).
(6th and 7th arrondissements, postal codes: 75006 and 75007, Mo: Sevres-Babylone or Saint-Sulpice)
$$$ Hôtel Signature St. Germain-des-Prés***, on a quiet street just steps from the trendy Sevres Babylone shopping area, is recently renovated and feels as chic as its neighboring boutiques. Young owner Delphine Prigent takes great care of her guests with 26 elegant and tastefully decorated rooms, several with balconies (Db-€180-240, “prestige” Db-€240-320, Tb-€240-360, 2-room Qb-€380-440, 5 Rue Chomel, Mo: Sevres Babylone, tel. 01 45 48 35 53, hotellindbergh.com, infos@hotellindbergh.com).
$ Hôtel Jean Bart** feels like it’s from another era—prices included. Run by smiling Madame Lechopier, it’s a rare budget find in this neighborhood, one block from Luxembourg Garden. Beyond the dark, retirement home-like lobby, you’ll find 33 spotless rooms with creaking floors and tight bathrooms. The cheapest rooms share one shower on the first floor (S-€59, Sb-€72, D-€61, Db-€80-96, cash only, no air-con, 9 Rue Jean-Bart, tel. 01 45 48 29 13, hotel.jean.bart@gmail.com).
(6th arrondissement, postal code: 75006, Mo: Odéon, Cluny-La Sorbonne, or Mabillon; RER: Luxembourg)
These two hotels are between the Odéon Métro stop and Luxembourg Garden (five blocks east of St. Sulpice) and may have rooms when others don’t.
$$$ Hôtel Relais Médicis*** is ideal if you’ve always wanted to live in a Monet painting and can afford it. A glassy entry hides 17 rooms surrounding a fragrant little garden courtyard and fountain, giving you a countryside break fit for a Medici in the heart of Paris. This delightful refuge is tastefully decorated with floral Old World charm and permeated with thoughtfulness (Sb-€172, Db-€208-228, deluxe Db-€258, Tb-€298, Qb-€348, €30 cheaper mid-July-Aug and Nov-March, includes extravagant continental breakfast, faces the Odéon Theater at 5 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 43 26 00 60, relaismedicis.com, reservation@relaismedicis.com).
$ Hôtel Michelet Odéon** sits in a corner of Place de l’Odéon with big windows on the square. Though it lacks personality, it’s a fair value in this pricey area, with 24 simple rooms with modern decor and views of the square. Planned upgrades mean these prices are likely to rise by 2015 (Db-€120-140, Tb-€170, Qb-€190, no air-con, 6 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 53 10 05 60, hotelmicheletodeon.com, hotel@micheletodeon.com).
(5th arrondissement, postal code: 75005, Mo: Cardinal Lemoine, Place Monge, Jussieu, or Cluny-La Sorbonne; RER: Luxembourg)
$ Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles*** is idyllic. A private cobbled lane leads to three buildings that protect a flower-filled garden courtyard, preserving a sense of tranquility rare in this city. Its 51 rooms are French-countryside-pretty and reasonably spacious, but have no air-conditioning. This romantic spot is deservedly popular, so book ahead. Reservations are not accepted more than four months in advance; new openings become available on the 15th of each month (Db-€125-150 depending on size, extra bed-€20, no TVs in rooms, parking garage-€30/day, 75 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Mo: Cardinal Lemoine, tel. 01 43 26 79 23, hotel-grandes-ecoles.com, hotel.grandes.ecoles@free.fr; mellow Marie speaks English, Mama does not).
$ Hôtel des 3 Collèges** greets clients with a bright lobby, narrow hallways, and unimaginative rooms. Rates are fair and the smiling staff is eager to please (Sb-€92-117, Db-€117-190, Tb-€180-210, 16 Rue Cujas, tel. 01 43 54 67 30, 3colleges.com, hotel@3colleges.com).
$ Hôtel Cujas Panthéon** gives boring, standard two-star comfort with air-conditioning at fair prices (Db-€140-150, Tb-€170-190, 18 Rue Cujas, tel. 01 43 54 58 10, cujas-pantheon-paris-hotel.com, hotel-cujas-pantheon@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel Cluny Sorbonne** is a modest place located in the thick of things across from the famous university and below the Panthéon. Rooms are well-worn, with thin walls (small Db-€100-110, one really big Db/Tb/Qb-€140, check website for deals, no air-con, Wi-Fi only, 8 Rue Victor Cousin, tel. 01 43 54 66 66, hotel-cluny.fr, cluny@club-internet.fr).
(5th arrondissement, postal code: 75005, RER: Luxembourg or Port-Royal)
$$ Hôtel des Mines** is less central, but its 50 well-maintained rooms are a fair value and come with updated bathrooms and an inviting lobby (Sb-€130, Db-€160, Tb-€200, Qb-€230, less for last-minute bookings and stays of 3 nights or more, frequent Web deals, between Luxembourg and Port-Royal stations on the RER-B line, a 10-minute walk from Panthéon, one block past Luxembourg Garden at 125 Boulevard St. Michel, tel. 01 43 54 32 78, hoteldesminesparis.com, hotel@hoteldesminesparis.com).
(5th arrondissement, postal code: 75005, Mo: Censier Daubenton or Les Gobelins)
These accommodations, away from the Seine and other tourists, lie in an appealing and unpretentious area and offer more room for your euro. Rue Mouffetard is the bohemian soul of this area. Two thousand years ago, it was the principal Roman road south to Italy. Today, this small, meandering street has a split personality. The lower half thrives in the daytime as a pedestrian shopping street. The upper half sleeps during the day, but comes alive after dark with a fun collection of restaurants and bars. A terrific Saturday market sprawls along Boulevard Port Royal, just east of the Port Royal Métro stop.
$ Port-Royal-Hôtel* has only one star, but don’t let that fool you. Its 46 rooms are polished top to bottom and have been well-run by the same proud family for 81 years. You could eat off the floors of its spotless, comfy rooms...but you won’t find air-conditioning. Ask for a room away from the street (S-€49-60, D-€60, Db-€84-89 depending on size, big shower down the hall-€3, cash only or wire transfer, on busy Boulevard de Port-Royal at #8, Mo: Les Gobelins, tel. 01 43 31 70 06, hotelportroyal.fr, portroyalhotel@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel de L’Espérance** is simply a terrific two-star value. It’s quiet and cushy, with soft rooms, canopy beds, and nice public spaces (Sb-€85, Db-€85-95, Tb-€120, 15 Rue Pascal, Mo: Censier Daubenton, tel. 01 47 07 10 99, hoteldelesperance.fr, hotel.esperance@wanadoo.fr).
$ Young & Happy Hostel is easygoing and English-speaking, with kitchen facilities and basic hostel conditions. It sits dead-center in the Rue Mouffetard action...which can be good or bad (all rates per person: bunk in 4- to 10-bed co-ed dorm-€24-32, in 3- to 5-bed female-only dorm-€28, in double room-€35, includes breakfast, sheet deposit-€5, towel-€1, no air-con, no lockers but safety box at reception, pay Wi-Fi, 11:00-16:00 lockout but reception stays open, no curfew, 80 Rue Mouffetard, Mo: Place Monge, tel. 01 47 07 47 07, youngandhappy.fr, smile@youngandhappy.fr).
Both of these places are located outside the T-3 RER stop, and both have restaurants. For locations, see the map on here.
$$ Novotel*** is a step up from cookie-cutter airport hotels (Db-€145-200, can rise to €290 for last-minute rooms, tel. 01 49 19 27 27, novotel.com, h1014@accor.com).
$ Hôtel Ibis CDG Airport** is huge and offers standard airport accommodations (Db-€95-160, tel. 01 49 19 19 19, ibishotel.com, h1404@accor.com).
The small village of Roissy-en-France (you’ll see signs just before the airport as you come from Paris), which gave its name to the airport (Roissy Charles de Gaulle), has better-value chain hotels with free shuttle service to and from the airport (4/hour, 15 minutes, look for navettes hôtels signs to reach these places). Hotels have reasonably priced restaurants with long hours, though it’s more pleasant to walk into the town, where you’ll find a bakery, pizzeria, cafés, and a few restaurants. Most Roissy hotels list specials on their websites.
These hotels are within walking distance of the town: $ Hôtel Ibis CDG Paris Nord 2** (Db-€70-110, usually much cheaper than the Ibis right at the airport, 335 Rue de la Belle Etoile, tel. 01 48 17 56 56, ibishotel.com, h0815@accor.com), $ Hôtel Campanile Roissy*** (Db-€70-130, Allée des Vergers, tel. 01 34 29 80 40, campanile-roissy.fr, roissy@campanile.fr), and $$ Hôtel Golden Tulip Paris CDG*** (Db-€90-180, 11 Allée des Vergers, tel. 01 34 29 00 00, goldentulipcdgvillepinte.com, info@goldentulipcdgvillepinte.com). The cheapest option is $ B&B Hôtel Roissy CDG*, where many flight attendants stay (Db-€55-60, 17 Allée des Vergers, tel. 01 34 38 55 55, or 02 98 33 75 29, hotelbb.com).
To avoid rush-hour traffic, drivers can consider sleeping north of Paris in either Auvers-sur-Oise (30 minutes west of airport) or in the pleasant medieval town of Senlis (15 minutes north of airport). In Auvers, $$ Hostellerie du Nord*** is small, friendly, and polished—a treat for those who want to sleep in luxury. It has modern, spacious rooms and a seriously good restaurant that requires reservations (Db-€100-130, suites-€190, menus from €60, a block from train station at 6 Rue du Général de Gaulle, tel. 01 30 36 70 74, hostelleriedunord.fr). In Senlis, $ Hôtel Ibis Senlis** is a few minutes from town (Db-€80-110, Route Nationale A1, tel. 03 44 53 70 50, ibishotel.com, h0709@accor.com). If you don’t have a car, sleep elsewhere.
Two chain hotels, owned by the same company and very close to the Sud terminal, are your best options near Orly. Both have free shuttles (navettes) to the terminal.
$$$ Hôtel Mercure Paris Orly*** provides high comfort for a high price; check their website for discounts (Db-€140-220, book early for better rate, tel. 01 49 75 15 51, accorhotel.com, h1246@accor.com).
$ Hôtel Ibis Orly Aéroport** is reasonable and basic (Db-€95-130, tel. 01 56 70 50 60, ibishotel.com, h1413@accor.com).
The Parisian eating scene is kept at a rolling boil. Entire books (and lives) are dedicated to the subject. Paris is France’s wine-and-cuisine melting pot. Though it lacks a style of its own (only French onion soup is truly Parisian; otherwise, there is no “Parisian cuisine” to speak of), it draws from the best of France. Paris could hold a gourmet Olympics and import nothing.
My recommendations are centered on the same great neighborhoods listed earlier, under “Sleeping in Paris”; you can come home exhausted after a busy day of sightseeing and find a good selection of restaurants right around the corner. And evening is a fine time to explore any of these delightful neighborhoods, even if you’re sleeping elsewhere.
Linger longer over dinner—restaurants expect you to enjoy a full meal. Most restaurants I’ve listed have set-price menus between €20 and €35. In most cases, the few extra euros you pay are well-spent, and open up a variety of better choices. Remember that a service charge is included in the prices (so little or no tipping is expected, although it’s polite to round up). Eat early with tourists or late with locals. Before choosing a seat outside, remember that smokers love outdoor tables.
Budget Tips: To save piles of euros, go to a bakery for takeout, or stop at a café for lunch. Cafés and brasseries are happy to serve a plat du jour (garnished plate of the day, about €12-18) or a chef-like salad (about €10-13) day or night.
To save even more, consider picnics (tasty take-out dishes available at charcuteries). The Palais Royal (across Place du Palais Royal from the Louvre) and Place des Vosges in the Marais make exquisite spots for peaceful, royal picnics. For great river views, try the little triangular Henry IV park on the west tip of Ile de la Cité, the bench-equipped pedestrian Pont des Arts bridge (across from the Louvre), or the grass parkway running along the Seine between Les Invalides and Pont de l’Alma (near Rue Cler). Parks, such as the Tuileries and Luxembourg Garden, make for ideal picnics—as do the gardens behind Les Invalides and the Champ de Mars park below the Eiffel Tower (eat at the sides of the park; the central area is off-limits). Be aware that parks, including the grassy area on Place des Vosges, close at dusk. For an urban setting and terrific people-watching, try the Pompidou Center (by the Homage to Stravinsky fountains) or the courtyard around the pyramid of the Louvre. Hoteliers frown on in-room picnics.
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
The Rue Cler neighborhood caters to its residents. Its eateries, while not destination places, have an intimate charm. I’ve provided a full range of choices—from cozy ma-and-pa diners to small and trendy boutique restaurants to classic, big, boisterous bistros. For all restaurants listed in this area, use the Ecole Militaire Métro stop (unless another station is listed).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
$ Café du Marché boasts the best seats, coffee, and prices on Rue Cler. The owner’s philosophy: Brasserie on speed—crank out good food at great prices to appreciative locals and savvy tourists. It’s high-energy, with young waiters who barely have time to smile...très Parisian. This place works well if you don’t mind a limited selection and want to eat an inexpensive one-course meal among a commotion of people. The chalkboard lists your choices: good, hearty €10 salads or more filling €10-12 plats du jour. Arrive before 19:30 to avoid long waits (Mon-Sat 11:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue du Champ de Mars, 38 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 51 27).
$ Tribeca Italian Restaurant, next door to Café du Marché, is run by the same people with essentially the same formula à la italienne. They offer similar value and more space with a calmer ambience. Choose from family-pleasing €13 pizzas and Italian plats (open daily, tel. 01 45 55 12 01).
$ Le Petit Cler is an adorable bistro with long leather booths, a vintage interior, a handful of outdoor tables, and simple, tasty, inexpensive dishes (€9 omelets, €7 soup of the moment, €12 salads, €13 plats, and sinful pots de crème, closed Mon, next to Grand Hôtel Lévêque at 29 Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 50 17 50).
$ Café le Roussillon offers basic, good-value food at fair prices with lively ambience (daily, indoor seating only, at the corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 51 47 53).
$ Crêperie Ulysée en Gaule offers cheap seats on Rue Cler with crêpes to go. Readers of this book don’t have to pay an extra charge to sit if they buy a drink. The family adores its Greek dishes, but their crêpes are your least expensive hot meal on this street (28 Rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 61 82).
$ Brasserie Aux PTT, a simple traditional café delivering fair-value fare, reminds Parisians of the old days on Rue Cler. Rick Steves diners are promised a free kir with their dinner (€12 plats, cheap wine, closed Sun, 2-minute walk from most area hotels, opposite 53 Rue Cler, tel. 01 45 51 94 96).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
$$ Le Florimond is fun for a special occasion. The setting is intimate and welcoming. Locals come for classic French cuisine at fair prices. Friendly English-speaking Laurent, whose playful ties change daily, gracefully serves one small room of tables and loves to give suggestions. The stuffed cabbage and the confit de canard are particularly tasty, and the house wine is wonderful (€37 menu, affordable wine selection, closed Sun, reservations smart, 19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 45 55 40 38, leflorimond.com).
$$ Café le Bosquet is a contemporary Parisian brasserie where you can dine for a fair price inside or outside on a broad sidewalk. Come here for standard café fare—salad, French onion soup, steak, or a plat du jour. Lanky owner “Jeff” offers a hard-to-beat three-course meal for €22, and plats from €13-19. The escargots are tasty, the house wine is quite good, and the beer is cheap for Paris (continental breakfast for €6, free Wi-Fi, closed Sun, reservations smart for dinner Fri-Sat, corner of Rue du Champ de Mars and Avenue Bosquet, 46 Avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 45 51 38 13, bosquetparis.com).
$$ La Terrasse du 7ème is a sprawling, happening café with grand outdoor seating and a living room-like interior with comfy love seats. Located on a corner, it overlooks a busy intersection with a constant parade of people. Chairs are set up facing the street, as a meal here is like dinner theater—and the show is slice-of-life Paris (€16-23 plats, good €13 salade niçoise, €8 French onion soup, no fixed-price menu, daily until at least 24:00 and sometimes until 2:00 in the morning, at Ecole Militaire Métro stop, tel. 01 45 55 00 02).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
$$$ L’Ami Jean offers authentic Basque specialties in a snug-but-fun, get-to-know-your-neighbor atmosphere with red peppers and Basque stuff hanging from the ceiling. It’s not cheap, but the portions are hearty and delicious and the entire menu changes every two weeks. Parisians detour long distances to savor the gregarious chef’s special cuisine and convivial atmosphere. Arrive by 19:30 or call ahead (€20 starters, €35 plats, €85 eight-course menu, closed Sun-Mon, 27 Rue Malar, Mo: La Tour-Maubourg, tel. 01 47 05 86 89, lamijean.fr).
$$$ Thoumieux is the neighborhood’s grand brasserie, with a classy interior lined with red velvet chairs, chandeliers, and fussy waiters. It’s a mini-splurge for most, though designed as an affordable chance to sample renowned chef Jean-François Piège’s cuisine: His 10-table restaurant one floor up earned 2 Michelin stars. Come here for a true brasserie experience (€18-34 starters, €30 plats, €12 desserts, daily, 79 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 79 79, jfpiege.com).
$$ Le Petit Niçois celebrates specialties from southern France. Gentle owner Carlos is famous for his fish, though his meat dishes are also excellent. Come here for everything from bouillabaisse to paella to mussels to lamb or roasted chicken, and enjoy the area’s top seafood and fine meat dishes at very fair prices. Start with the delectable escargot à la provençale, dive into the marmite du pêcheur—a delicious version of bouillabaisse, sample the sinful puréed potatoes, and finish yourself off with the lemon twist finale (citron confit givré aux frais) or café gourmand desserts. The atmosphere is contemporary—warm though formal (€24 two-course menu, €34 three-course menu; daily, 10 Rue Amélie, Mo: La Tour Maubourg, tel. 01 45 51 83 65).
$$ Au Petit Tonneau is a small, authentic French bistro with original decor, red-checked tablecloths, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. The place is real, the cuisine is delicious, and the experience is what you came to France for (€37 three-course menu that changes with season, well-priced wines, closed Mon, 20 Rue Surcouf, tel. 01 47 05 09 01).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
Some of these places line peaceful Rue de l’Exposition (a few blocks west of Rue Cler), allowing you to comparison shop sans stress.
$$$ 58 Tour Eiffel, on the tower’s first level, is popular both for its incredible views and the cuisine of its famed French chef, Alain Ducasse. Dinner here is pricey (you must order a complete menu, allow €80) and requires a reservation (two seatings: 18:30 and 21:00; reserve long in advance, especially if you want a view, either by calling or going online; within France, dial toll tel. 08 25 56 66 62; from outside France, dial 01 76 64 14 64; restaurants-toureiffel.com). Lunch is easier (€20 menu, daily 11:30-16:00, no reservations possible, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or Trocadéro, RER: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel).
$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, draws Parisians who want to be seen. It’s charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table on the ground floor or on the square, and enjoy the same meal Barack Obama did. Street-level seats come with the best ambience (€20-30 plats du jour, superb foie gras, superb-er desserts, daily, 129 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 47 05 46 44, fontainedemars.com).
$$ Au Petit Sud Ouest comes wrapped in stone walls and wood beams, making it a cozy place to sample cuisine from southwestern France. Duck, goose, foie gras, cassoulet, and truffles are all on la carte. Tables come with toasters to heat your bread—it enhances the flavors of the foie gras (salade with foie gras-€12, plats-€15, cassoulet-€16, closed Sun-Mon, 46 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 45 55 59 59).
$$ Le P’tit Troquet is a petite eatery taking you back to the Paris of the 1920s. Marie welcomes you warmly, and chef José cooks a delicious three-course €33 menu with a range of traditional choices prepared creatively. The homey charm and gourmet quality make this restaurant a favorite of connoisseurs (opens at 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, 28 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 80 39).
$$ Billebaude, run by patient Pascal, is a small, authentic Parisian bistro popular with locals and tourists. The focus is on what’s fresh, including catch-of-the-day fish and meats from the hunt (available in the fall and winter). Chef Sylvain, an avid hunter (as the decor suggests), is determined to deliver quality at a fair price—and he succeeds. Try filet de bar (sea bass) for your main course and œufs à la neige for dessert—but skip this place if you’re in a hurry (€35 menu, closed Sun-Mon, 29 Rue de l’Exposition, tel. 01 45 55 20 96).
$ Le Royal is a tiny neighborhood fixture offering the cheapest meals in the neighborhood. This humble time-warp place, with prices and decor from another era, comes from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought. Parisians dine here because “it’s like eating at home.” Gentle Michele and son Guillaume are fine hosts (€6 omelets, €9-12 plats, filling three-course menu-€14, closed Sat-Sun, 212 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 47 53 92 90).
$ Gusto Italia serves up tasty, good-value Italian cuisine in a shoebox-size place with a few tables outside. Arrive early or plan to wait (€12 salads, €14 pasta, daily, 199 Rue de Grenelle, tel. 01 45 55 00 43).
$ Boulangerie-Pâtisserie de la Tour Eiffel sells inexpensive salads, quiches, and sandwiches, and other traditional café fare. Enjoy the views of the Eiffel Tower (daily, outdoor and indoor seating, one block southeast of the tower at 21 Avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 59 81).
$ La Varangue is an entertaining one-man show featuring English-speaking Philippe, who once ran a catering business in Pennsylvania. He now lives upstairs and has found his niche serving a mostly American clientele. The food is cheap and basic, the tables are few, and he opens at 17:30. Norman Rockwell would dig his minuscule dining room—with the traditional kitchen sizzling just over the counter. Try his snails and chocolate cake—but not together (€12 plats, €18 menu, always a vegetarian option, closed Sun, 27 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 47 05 51 22).
$ The Pizzeria across from La Varangue is kid-friendly and cheap (closed Sun, eat in or take out, 28 Rue Augereau, tel. 01 45 55 45 16).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
Ever since leaving the venerable Hôtel Crillon, famed chef Christian Constant has made a career of taking the “snoot” out of French cuisine—and making it accessible to people like us. Today you’ll find three of his restaurants strung along one block of Rue St. Dominique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l’Exposition. Each is distinct, and each offers a different experience and price range. None of these places is cheap, but they all deliver top-quality cuisine.
$$$ Le Violon d’Ingres, where Christian won his first Michelin star, makes for a good excuse to dress up and dine finely in Paris. Glass doors open onto a chic eating scene, service is formal yet helpful, and the cuisine is what made this restaurateur’s reputation (€65-90 menus, daily, reservations essential, 135 Rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 55 15 05, maisonconstant.com/violon-ingres).
$$ Les Cocottes attracts a crowd of yuppie Parisians with its creative dishes served in cocottes—small iron pots (cocottes-€15-20, daily, no reservations taken, 135 Rue St. Dominique).
$$ Café Constant is a cool, two-level place that feels more like a small bistro-wine bar than a café. Delicious and fairly priced dishes are served in a snug setting to a dedicated clientele. Arrive early to get a table downstairs if you can (upstairs seating is a good fallback); the friendly staff speak English (€11 entrées, €16 plats, €7 desserts, daily, no reservations taken, corner of Rue Augereau and Rue St. Dominique, next to recommended Hôtel Londres Eiffel, tel. 01 47 53 73 34).
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
Rue Cler is a festival of food. The street is lined with businesses run by people whose lives seem to be devoted to their specialty: polished produce, rotisserie chicken, crêpes, or cheese.
For a magical picnic dinner at the Eiffel Tower, assemble it in no fewer than five shops on Rue Cler. Then lounge on the best grass in Paris, with the dogs, Frisbees, a floodlit tower, and a cool breeze in the Champ de Mars park (picnics are allowed off to the sides, but not in the central area).
Asian delis (generically called traiteurs asiatique) provide low-stress, low-price take-out treats (€8 dinner plates; the one on Rue Cler near Rue du Champ de Mars has tables). Crêperie Ulysée en Gaule, the Greek restaurant on Rue Cler across from Grand Hôtel Lévêque, sells take-away crêpes (see here). For the cheapest, easiest meals, consider getting sandwiches or kebabs, just beyond the cute zone a few steps past the Ecole Militaire Métro stop on Avenue de Tourville.
Small, late-night groceries are at 197 Rue de Grenelle (open daily until midnight), as well as where Rues Cler and Grenelle cross.
(See “Rue Cler Restaurants” map, here.)
This sleepy neighborhood was not made for night owls, but there are a few notable exceptions. The focal point of before- and after-dinner posing occurs along the broad sidewalk at the intersection of Avenues de la Motte-Picquet and Tourville (Mo: Ecole Militaire). Le Tourville and Café des Officiers gather a sea of outward-facing seats for the important business of people-watching—and fashion-model recruiting.
La Terrasse du 7ème, across the avenue, has a less-pretentious clientele (see listing, earlier). On Rue Cler, Café du Marché (listed earlier) attracts a Franco-American café crowd until at least midnight, though the younger-in-spirit L’Eclair cocktail café (a few doors down at #32) rocks it until 2:00 in the morning. Café Roussillon has a good French pub atmosphere at the corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler. O’Brien’s Pub is a relaxed Parisian rendition of an Irish pub, with French men in suits tossing darts and drinking pints (77 Rue St. Dominique, Mo: La Tour Maubourg).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying good food in colorful and atmospheric eateries. The scene is competitive and changes all the time. I’ve listed an assortment of eateries—all handy to recommended hotels—that offer good food at decent prices, plus a memorable experience.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site until dusk, when the park closes (use Bastille or St. Paul Métro stops). Strolling around the arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months an option. Also consider a drink on the square at Café Hugo or a pastry at Carette.
$$$ Ma Bourgogne is a vintage eatery where you’ll sit under warm arcades in a whirlpool of Frenchness, as bow-tied and black-aproned waiters serve you traditional French specialties: blood-red steak (try the brochette de bœuf), piles of fries, escargot, and good red wine. Here your waiter is paid to be efficient, not warm and fuzzy. Monsieur Cougoureux (koo-goo-ruh) has commanded this ship since de Gaulle was sniveling at Americans. He offers anyone with this book a free amuse-bouche (“amusement for your mouth”) of his homemade steak tartare—but you may need to remind him (show him my picture in this book). This is your chance to try this “raw spiced hamburger” delicacy without dedicating an entire meal to it (€42 menu, daily, cash only, at northwest corner at #19, tel. 01 42 78 44 64).
$$ La Place Royale offers a fine location on the square with good seating inside or out. Here you can expect a warm welcome and patient waiters, as owner Arnaud prides himself on service. The cuisine is traditional, well-priced, and served nonstop all day, and the exceptional wine list is reasonable (try the Sancerre white). The €39 menu comes with a kir, three courses, a half-bottle of wine per person, and coffee (€23-39 menus, daily, 2 bis Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 78 58 16).
$$ Café Hugo, named for the square’s most famous resident, is best for drinks only, but if it’s basic café fare you crave, the setting is terrific with good seating under the arches (daily, 22 Place des Vosges, tel. 01 42 72 64 04).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
$$ Les Bonnes Soeurs, a block from the square, blends modern and traditional fare with contemporary bistro ambience. Cecile and Isabelle take good care of their clients and offer portions that are big and inventive. The delicious and filling pressé de chèvre starter (a hunk of goat cheese topped with tapenade and tomatoes) begs to be shared. The risotto is très tasty, the hearty French hamburger comes with a salad and the best fries I’ve tasted in Paris, and wines are well-priced. For many, a main course is plenty; others like to order two starters (plats from €16, no menu, daily, 8 Rue du Pas de la Mule, tel. 01 42 74 55 80).
$$ Chez Janou, a Provençal bistro, tumbles out of its corner building and fills its broad sidewalk with happy eaters. At first glance, you know this place has a following. Don’t let the trendy and youthful crowd intimidate you: It’s relaxed and charming, with helpful and patient service. The curbside tables are inviting, but I’d sit inside (with very tight seating) to immerse myself in the happy commotion. The style is French Mediterranean, with an emphasis on vegetables (€16-20 plats du jour that change with the season, daily from 19:00—book ahead or arrive when it opens, 2 blocks beyond Place des Vosges at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, tel. 01 42 72 28 41, chezjanou.com). They’re proud of their 81 varieties of pastis (licorice-flavored liqueur, €3.50 each, browse the list above the bar).
$ Café des Musées is an unspoiled bistro serving traditional dishes with little fanfare and a good €26 three-course menu special. The place is just far enough away to be overlooked by tourists but packed with locals, so arrive early or book ahead (daily, 49 Rue de Turenne, tel. 01 42 72 96 17).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
To reach these restaurants, use the Bastille Métro stop.
$$$ Brasserie Bofinger, an institution for over a century, is famous for seafood and traditional cuisine with Alsatian flair. You’ll eat in a sprawling interior, surrounded by brisk, black-and-white-attired waiters. While the cuisine is good enough, dine here for the one-of-a-kind ambience in their elaborately decorated ground-floor rooms, reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. Eating under the grand 1919 coupole is a memorable treat (as is using the “historic” 1919 WC). (If you can’t get a ground-floor table, skip it.) Their €29 two-course and €34 three-course menus are a fair value. If you’ve always wanted one of those picturesque seafood platters, this is a good place—you can take the standard platter or create one à la carte (open daily for lunch and for dinner, fun kids’ menu, reasonably priced wines, 5 Rue de la Bastille, don’t be confused by the lesser “Petite” Bofinger across the street, tel. 01 42 72 87 82).
$$ Au Temps des Cerises is a warm place serving wines by the glass and meals with a smile. The woody 1950s atmosphere has tight seating and wads of character. Come for a glass of wine at the small zinc bar and say bonjour to Ben (€4-6, try their Viognier) or stay for a tasty dinner (€10 starters, €19 plats, good cheap wine, daily, at Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, tel. 01 42 72 08 63).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
These are closest to the St. Paul Métro stop.
$$ Robert et Louise (now run by Pascal et François) crams tables into a tiny, rustic-as-it-gets interior, warmed by a fireplace grill. The food is red-meat good, well-priced, and popular with tourists (€8 starters, €18 plats, €7 desserts, closed Mon, 64 Rue du Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 78 55 89).
$ Breizh (Brittany) Café is worth the walk. It’s a simple Breton joint serving organic crêpes and small rolls made for dipping in rich sauces and salted butter. The crêpes are the best in Paris and run the gamut from traditional andouille (pork sausage) to Asian fusion (buckwheat crêpe topped with seaweed butter). They also serve oysters, have a fantastic list of sweet crêpes, and talk about cider like a sommelier would talk about wine. Try a sparkling cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite—lait ribot, a buttermilk-like drink (€7-13 dinner crêpes and plats, serves nonstop from 12:00 to late, closed Mon-Tue, 109 Rue du Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 13 77).
$ Le Bistrot des Comperes has a privileged location on a quiet corner in the thick of the Marais; but may be closed when you visit in 2015. If open, there’s seating inside and out. The cuisine is traditional with creative twists—try the crème brûlée de chèvre for starters and the profiteroles to end. The young owners speak English and the prices are very fair (€7 starters, €15 plats, €7 desserts, closed Sun-Mon, 16 Rue Charlemagne, tel. 01 42 72 14 16).
$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: This small, romantic square, just off Rue St. Antoine, is an international food festival cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience. On a balmy evening, this is clearly a neighborhood favorite, with a handful of restaurants offering mediocre cuisine (you’re here for the setting). It’s also kid-friendly: Most places serve French hamburgers, and kids can dance around the square while parents breathe. Study the square, and you’ll find three French bistros with similar features and menus: Le Marché, Chez Joséphine, and Au Bistrot de la Place (all open daily with €20-32 menus on weekdays, must order à la carte on weekends, tight seating on flimsy chairs indoors and out, Chez Joséphine has best chairs).
$ Several hardworking Asian fast-food eateries, great for an €8 meal, line Rue St. Antoine.
On Rue des Rosiers in the Jewish Quarter: These places line up along the same street in the heart of the Jewish Quarter.
$ Chez Marianne is a neighborhood fixture that blends delicious Jewish cuisine with Parisian élan and wonderful atmosphere. Choose from several indoor zones with a cluttered wine shop/deli feeling, or sit outside. You’ll select from two dozen Zakouski elements to assemble your €12-16 plat. Vegetarians will find great options (€8 falafel sandwich—less if you order it to go, long hours daily, corner of Rue des Rosiers and Rue des Hospitalières-St.-Gervais, tel. 01 42 72 18 86). For takeout, pay inside first and get a ticket before you order outside.
$ Le Loir dans la Théière (“The Dormouse in the Teapot”) is a cozy, mellow teahouse offering a welcoming ambience for tired travelers (laptops and cell phones are not welcome). It’s ideal for lunch and popular for weekend brunch. They offer a daily assortment of creatively filled quiches, and bake up an impressive array of homemade desserts that are proudly displayed in the dining room. Try the mile-high lemon meringue “pie” or the oversized mille-feuille (€12-14 plats, daily 10:00-19:00, 3 Rue des Rosiers, tel. 01 42 72 90 61).
$ L’As du Falafel rules the falafel scene in the Jewish quarter. Monsieur Isaac, the “Ace of Falafel” here since 1979, brags, “I’ve got the biggest pita on the street...and I fill it up.” (Apparently it’s Lenny Kravitz’s favorite, too.) Your inexpensive meal comes on plastic plates, in a bustling setting that seems to prove he’s earned his success. The €7 “special falafel” is the big hit (€6 to go), but many Americans enjoy his lighter chicken version (poulet grillé) or the tasty and massive assiette de falafel (€9). Wash it down with a cold Maccabee beer. Their take-out service draws a constant crowd (long hours daily except closed Fri evening and all day Sat, air-con, 34 Rue des Rosiers, tel. 01 48 87 63 60).
$ La Droguerie, an outdoor crêpe stand a few blocks farther down Rue des Rosiers with a light-hearted owner, is a good budget option if falafels don’t work for you, but cheap does (€5 dinner crêpes, daily 12:00-22:00, 56 Rue des Rosiers).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
To reach these eateries, use the Hôtel de Ville Métro stop.
$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a handsome wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers, where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouthwatering, and the bœuf bourguignon could feed two (€11-14 starters, €20-30 plats, closed Sun-Mon, pleasing indoor and outdoor seating, 52 Rue François Miron, tel. 01 48 87 15 40).
$ L’Ebouillanté is a breezy crêperie-café, romantically situated near the river on a broad, cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With great outdoor seating and an artsy, cozy interior, it’s perfect for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or for dinner on a warm evening. Their Brick, a Tunisian-inspired dish that looks like a stuffed omelet, has several filling options and comes with a small salad (€15); it left me stuffed (plats and big salads-€13, daily 12:00-21:30 except closed Mon Nov-March, a block off the river at 6 Rue des Barres, tel. 01 42 71 09 69).
$ Pizza Sant’Antonio is bustling and cheap, serving up €11 pizzas and salads on a fun Marais square (daily, barely off Rue de Rivoli at 1 Rue de la Verrerie, tel. 01 42 77 78 47).
$ BHV Department Store’s fifth-floor cafeteria provides nice views, unbeatable prices, and many main courses to choose from, with a salad bar, pizza by the slice, pasta, and free tap water. It’s family-easy with point-and-shoot cafeteria cuisine (Mon-Sat 11:30-18:00, closed Sun, at intersection of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Picnic at peaceful Place des Vosges (closes at dusk) or on the Ile St. Louis quais (described later). Stretch your euros at the basement supermarket of the Monoprix department store (closed Sun, near Place des Vosges on Rue St. Antoine). You’ll find small groceries open until 23:00 at 48 Rue St. Antoine and on Ile St. Louis.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Trendy cafés and bars—popular with gay men—cluster on Rue des Archives and Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie (closing at about 2:00 in the morning). There’s also a line of bars and cafés providing front-row seats for the buff parade on Rue Vieille du Temple, a block north of Rue de Rivoli (the horseshoe-shaped Au Petit Fer à Cheval bar-restaurant and the atmospheric La Belle Hortense bookstore/wine bar are the focal points of the action). Nearby, Rue des Rosiers bustles with youthful energy, but there are no cafés to observe from. La Perla dishes up inexpensive Tex-Mex and is stuffed with Parisian yuppies in search of the perfect margarita (26 Rue François Miron, tel. 01 42 77 59 40).
$ Le Pick-Clops bar-restaurant is a happy peanuts-and-lots-of-cocktails diner with bright neon, loud colors, and a garish local crowd. It’s perfect for immersing yourself in today’s Marais world—a little boisterous, a little edgy, a little gay, fun-loving, easygoing...and sans tourists. Sit inside on old-fashioned diner stools, or streetside to watch the constant Marais parade. The name means “Steal the Cigarettes”—but you’ll pay €11 for your big salad (daily 7:00-24:00, 16 Rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 40 29 02 18).
More Options: The best scene for hard-core clubbers is the dizzying array of wacky eateries, bars, and dance halls on Rue de Lappe. Just east of the stately Place de la Bastille, it’s one of the wildest nightspots in Paris and not for everyone.
The most enjoyable peaceful evening may be simply mentally donning your floppy “three musketeers” hat and slowly strolling Place des Vosges, window-shopping the art galleries.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
This romantic and peaceful neighborhood is littered with promising and surprisingly reasonable possibilities; it merits a trip for dinner even if your hotel is elsewhere. Cruise the island’s main street for a variety of options, from cozy crêperies to Italian eateries to Alsatian brasseries and romantic bistros. After dinner, sample Paris’ best ice cream and stroll across to Ile de la Cité to see a floodlit Notre-Dame. These recommended spots line the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile (see map on here; to get here use the Pont Marie Métro stop).
$$$ Le Tastevin is an intimate mother-and-son-run restaurant serving top-notch traditional French cuisine with white-tablecloth, candlelit, gourmet elegance under heavy wooden beams. The romantic setting (and the elegantly romantic Parisian couples enjoying the place) naturally makes you whisper. The menus (€32-44 two courses, €40-54 three courses) offer a handful of classic choices that change with the season (daily, reserve for late-evening dining, fine wine list, 46 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 54 17 31, owner Madame Puisieux and her gentle son speak just enough English).
$$$ Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois (“Our Ancestors the Gauls”), famous for its rowdy, medieval-cellar atmosphere, is made for hungry warriors and wenches who like to swill hearty wine. They serve up rustic all-you-can-eat fare with straw baskets of raw veggies and bundles of sausage (cut whatever you like with your dagger), massive plates of pâté, a meat course, and all the wine you can stomach for €41. The food is just food; burping is encouraged. If you want to overeat, drink too much wine, be surrounded with tourists (mostly French), and holler at your friends while receiving smart-aleck buccaneer service, you’re home (daily, 39 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 66 07).
$$ La Brasserie de l’Ile St. Louis is situated at the prow of the island’s ship as it faces Ile de la Cité, offering purely Alsatian cuisine (try the choucroute garnie or coq au Riesling for €19), served in a vigorous, Teutonic setting with no-nonsense, slap-it-down service on wine-stained paper tablecloths. This is a good, balmy-evening perch for watching the Ile St. Louis promenade. If it’s chilly, the interior is fun for a memorable night out (closed Wed, no reservations, 55 Quai de Bourbon, tel. 01 43 54 02 59).
$$ L’Orangerie is an inviting place with soft lighting and comfortable seating where diners speak in hushed voices so that everyone can appreciate the delicious cuisine and tasteful setting. Patient owner Monika speaks fluent English, and her gratin d’aubergines is sinfully good (€27 two-course menu, €35 three-course menu, Tue-Sun from 19:00, closed Mon, 28 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 93 98).
$ Auberge de la Reine Blanche welcomes diners willing to rub elbows with their neighbors under heaving beams. Earnest owner Michel serves basic, traditional cuisine at reasonable prices. The giant goat-cheese salad is a beefy meal in itself (€20 two-course menu, €25 three-course menu, daily from 18:00, 30 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 46 33 07 87).
$ Café Med, near the pedestrian bridge to Notre-Dame, is a tiny, cheery crêperie with good-value salads, crêpes, and €11 plats (€14 and €20 menus, daily, limited wine list, 77 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 43 29 73 17). Two similar crêperies are just across the street.
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
On sunny lunchtimes and balmy evenings, the quai on the Left Bank side of Ile St. Louis is lined with locals who have more class than money, spreading out tablecloths and even lighting candles for elegant picnics. And tourists can enjoy the same budget meal. A handy grocery store at #67 on the main drag (open until 22:00, closed Tue) has tabouli and other simple, cheap take-away dishes for your picnicking pleasure. The bakery a few blocks down at #40 serves quiche and pizza (open until 20:00, closed Sun-Mon).
(See “Marais Restaurants” map, here.)
Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice-cream cone, because this is the home of les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris). The original Berthillon shop, at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-Tue). For a less famous but at least as satisfying treat, the homemade Italian gelato a block away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (no line, bigger portions, easier to see what you want, and they offer little tastes—Berthillon doesn’t need to, 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, tel. 01 44 07 48 08). Having some of each is not a bad thing.
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
Sleeping in the Luxembourg neighborhood puts you near many appealing dining and after-hours options. Because my hotels in this area cluster near St. Sulpice Church and the Panthéon, I’ve organized restaurant listings the same way. Restaurants around St. Sulpice tend to be boisterous; those near the Panthéon are calmer; it’s a short walk from one area to the other. Anyone sleeping in this area is close to the inexpensive eateries that line the always-bustling Rue Mouffetard. You’re also within a 15-minute walk of the grands cafés of St. Germain and Montparnasse (with Paris’ first café and famous artist haunts.
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
The eateries in this section are served by the St. Sulpice, Mabillon, and St. Germain-des-Prés Métro stops. The streets between St. Sulpice Church and Boulevard St. Germain abound with restaurants, crêperies, wine bars, and jazz haunts (for this area, use Mo: St. Sulpice). Find Rue des Canettes and Rue Guisarde, and window-shop the many French and Italian eateries—most with similar prices, but each with a slightly different feel.
$$ Lou Pescadou-Chez Julien offers a comfortable atmosphere and above-average bistro fare in a zone where every restaurant looks the same (€9 starters, €18 plats, daily, some outdoor seating, 16 Rue Mabillon, tel. 01 43 54 56 08).
$$ La Maison du Jardin is a small, classy bistro with formal tablecloths and elaborately garnished dishes. Here locals and tourists dine elbow to elbow (€23-26 lunch, €32 three-course dinner menu, open Mon-Fri for lunch and dinner, Sat dinner only, closed Sun, 27 Rue de Vaugirard, tel. 01 45 48 22 31).
$$ Boucherie Roulière has a dark interior crammed with locals in search of a thick steak or other meat dish (€9 entrées, €19 plats, closed Mon, 24 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 43 26 25 70).
$$ Santa Lucia draws positive reviews with wood-fired pizza, good pasta, and killer tiramisu (€12-14 pizza and pastas, €22 plats, closed Mon, 22 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 43 26 42 68).
$ Pasta Luna is a deli specializing in porky fare from the southernmost French island of Corsica. The proud owner lovingly and slowly makes sandwiches to order. Try the sheep cheese with fig jam or the cured pork loin (€6 sandwiches, add €2 for a drink and a cookie, served from 11:00 until the bread runs out—usually about 19:00, closed Sun, 15 Rue Mézières, tel. 01 45 44 32 02).
$ La Crêpe Rit du Clown cooks up yummy crêpes (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, closed Sun, 6 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 46 34 01 02).
$ Gérard Mulot’s boulangerie-pâtisserie is a noteworthy neighborhood bakery. Purchase a cheesy quiche and chocolate dessert to go and dine al fresco in the nearby Luxembourg Gardens (Thu-Tue 7:00-20:00, closed Wed, 76 Rue de Seine, tel. 01 43 26 85 77).
$ Chez Georges is a bohemian pub lined with black-and-white photos of the artsy and revolutionary French ’60s. Have a drink as you sit in a cool little streetside table nook, or venture downstairs to find a hazy, drippy-candle, traditionally French world in the Edith Piaf-style dance cellar (cheap drinks from old-fashioned menu, Tue-Sat 14:00-2:00 in the morning, closed Sun-Mon and in Aug, 11 Rue des Canettes, tel. 01 43 26 79 15).
Near Boulevard St. Germain: A five-minute walk from St. Sulpice Church, this venerable boulevard is home to some of Paris’ most famous cafés and best pre- or post-dinner strolling. Consider a light dinner with a table facing the action at Hemingway’s Les Deux Magots or at Sartre’s Le Café de Flore (figure about €12 for an omelet and €18-28 for a salad or plat). A block north (toward the river), Rue de Buci offers a lineup of bars, cafés, and bistros targeted to a young clientele who are more interested in how they look than how the food tastes. It’s terrific theater for passersby from 18:00 until late.
$$ La Cigale Récamier, near the Sèvres-Babylone shopping area, is a classy place for a quiet meal at reasonable prices with appealing indoor and outdoor seating. It’s about 10 minutes west of Place St. Sulpice, on a short pedestrian square a block off Rue de Sèvres (€20 plats, à la carte only, closed Sun, 4 Rue Récamier, Mo: Sèvres-Babylone, tel. 01 46 48 86 58). Around the corner sits the marvelously old-school Au Sauvignon Café (10 Rue de Sèvres, open daily).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
To reach these, use the Odéon or Cluny-La Sorbonne Métro stops. In this same neighborhood, you’ll find the historic Café le Procope, Paris’ more-than-300-year-old café.
$ L’Avant Comptoir, a stand-up-only hors d’oeuvres bar serving a delightful array of French-Basque tapas for €3-6 on a sleek zinc counter, was created to give people a sample of the cuisine from the très trendy Le Comptoir Restaurant next door, where the reservation wait time is four months. The menu is fun and accessible, it has a good list of wines by the glass, and crêpes are made fresh to go (daily 12:00-23:00, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 27 07 97).
$$ Brasserie Bouillon Racine takes you back to 1906 with an Art Nouveau carnival of carved wood, stained glass, and old-time lights reflected in beveled mirrors. The over-the-top decor and energetic waiters give it an inviting conviviality. Check upstairs before choosing a table. Their roast suckling pig (€20) is a house favorite. There’s Belgian beer on tap and a fascinating history on the menu (€18-23 plats, €30 menu, a few fish options and lots of meat, daily, serves nonstop between lunch and dinner, 3 Rue Racine, tel. 01 44 32 15 60).
$$ La Méditerranée is all about seafood from the south served in a pastel and dressy setting...with similar clientele. The scene and the cuisine are sophisticated yet accessible, and the view of the Odéon is formidable. The sky-blue tablecloths and the lovingly presented dishes add to the romance (€28 two-course menus, €33 three-course menus, daily, reservations smart, facing the Odéon at 2 Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 43 26 02 30, la-mediterranee.com).
$$ Café de l’Odéon offers a great chance to savor light meals with a classy crowd on a peaceful and elegant square in front of a venerable theater. Though limited, the menu is accessible and decently priced, and you’ll feel like a winner eating so well in such a Parisian setting. From May to October, the café is outdoors-only and serves lunch and dinner—or just go for drinks (good €14 salads, €17 plats such as salmon and steak tartare; May-Oct daily 12:00-23:00—weather permitting, no reservations, Place de l’Odéon, tel. 01 44 85 41 30). In the winter (Nov-April) they serve lunch only inside the palatial theater lobby.
$ Restaurant Polidor, a bare-bones neighborhood fixture since 1845, is much loved for its unpretentious quality cooking, fun old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Stepping inside, you know this is a winner—noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables as waiters chop and serve fresh bread. The selection features classic bourgeois plats from every corner of France (€12-17 plats, €25-35 three-course menus, daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-23:00, cash only, no reservations, 41 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, tel. 01 43 26 95 34). Next door you’ll find the restaurant’s wine shop, Les Caves du Polidor, where you can sip wine and nibble on cheese-and-meat plates (daily, wine and snacks served 18:00-20:00, opens earlier when weather or owner is feeling sunny).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
To reach these restaurants, use the Cluny-La Sorbonne Métro stop or the Luxembourg RER stop.
$$ At Les Papilles you just eat what’s offered...and you won’t complain. It’s a foodie’s dream come true—one menu, no choices, and no regrets. Choose your wine from the shelf or ask for advice from the burly rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Book this place ahead (€33 menu, €18 daily marmite du marché—a.k.a. market stew, bigger and cheaper menu at lunch, closed Sun-Mon, 30 Rue Gay Lussac, tel. 01 43 25 20 79).
$$ Le Vin Qui Danse is a warm little place serving a good selection of tasty dishes and well-matched wines to appreciative clients (€29 two-course menu, add €15 for three wines selected to complement your meal, daily, 4 Rue des Fossés St. Jacques, tel. 01 43 54 80 81).
$ On Rue Soufflot with Panthéon Views: Facing each other are two cafés—Le Soufflot and Le Comptoir du Panthéon—that are well-positioned for afternoon sun and soft evening light. A block in front of the Panthéon, they deliver dynamite views of the inspiring dome. Both serve classic café food all day until late and are great for a pensive drink or a light meal—simply choose the one that appeals.
$ Place de la Sorbonne: This appealing little square surrounds a gurgling fountain and faces Sorbonne University, just a block from the Cluny Museum. It offers several opportunities for a good outdoor lunch or a pleasant dining experience. At amiable Carole’s tiny Baker’s Dozen, you’ll pay take-away prices for light fare you can sit down to eat (€5 salads and sandwiches, Mon-Sat until 15:30, closed Sun, tel. 01 44 07 08 09). Café de l’Ecritoire is a typical brasserie with salads, plats du jour, and good seating inside and out (daily, tel. 01 43 54 60 02). Patios serves basic Italian cuisine, including pizza, at decent prices (daily until late, tel. 01 45 38 71 19). Le Bac de la Sorbonne is a tad cheaper, but you get what you pay for.
$$ Le Pré Verre, a block from the Cluny Museum, is a chic wine bistro—a refreshing alternative in a part of the Latin Quarter mostly known for low-quality, tourist-trapping eateries. Offering imaginative, modern cuisine at fair prices, the place is packed. The astonishing bargain lunch menu includes a starter, main course, glass of wine, and coffee for €14. The three-course dinner menu at €31 is worth every centime. They pride themselves equally on their small-producers’ wine list, so follow your server’s advice (closed Sun-Mon, 8 Rue Thénard, reservations necessary, tel. 01 43 54 59 47, lepreverre.com).
(See “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, here.)
Several blocks behind the Panthéon, Rue Mouffetard is a conveyor belt of comparison-shopping eaters with wall-to-wall budget options (fondue, crêpes, Italian, falafel, and Greek). Come here to sift through the crowds and eat cheaply. This street stays up late and likes to party (particularly around Place de la Contrescarpe). The gauntlet begins on top, at thriving Place de la Contrescarpe, and ends below where Rue Mouffetard stops at St. Médard Church. Both ends offer fun cafés where you can watch the action. The upper stretch is pedestrian and touristy; the bottom stretch is purely Parisian. Anywhere between is no-man’s land for consistent quality. Still, strolling with so many fun-seekers is enjoyable, whether you eat or not. To get here, use the Censier Daubenton or Place Monge Métro stop.
$$ Café Delmas, at the top of Rue Mouffetard on picturesque Place de la Contrescarpe, is the place to see and be seen. Come here for an expensive before- or after-dinner drink on the terrace or typical but pricey café cuisine (open daily).
$ Cave de Bourgogne, a local hangout, has good, reasonably priced café fare at the bottom of Rue Mouffetard. The outside has picture-perfect tables on a raised terrace; the interior is warm and lively (€13-16 plats, specials listed on chalkboards, daily, 144 Rue Mouffetard).
The following companies all offer dinner cruises (reservations required). Bateaux-Mouches and Bateaux Parisiens have the best reputations and the highest prices. They offer multicourse meals and music in aircraft-carrier-size dining rooms with glass tops and good views. For both, proper dress is required—no denim, shorts, or sport shoes; Bateaux-Mouches requires a jacket and tie for men. The main difference between these companies is the music: Bateaux-Mouches offers violin and piano for elegant entertainment during your romantic evening, whereas Bateaux Parisiens boasts a lively atmosphere with a singer, band, and dance floor.
Bateaux-Mouches, started in 1949, is hands-down the most famous. You can’t miss its sparkling port on the north side of the river at Pont de l’Alma. The boats usually board 19:30-20:15, depart at 20:30, and return at 22:45 (€100-155/person, RER: Pont de l’Alma, tel. 01 42 25 96 10, bateaux-mouches.fr).
Bateaux Parisiens leaves from Port de la Bourdonnais, just east of the bridge under the Eiffel Tower. Begin boarding at 19:45, leave at 20:30, and return at 23:00 (€66-165/person, price depends on departure time, view seating, and menu option; tel. 01 76 64 14 45, bateauxparisiens.com). The middle level is best. Pay the few extra euros to get seats next to the windows—it’s more romantic and private, with sensational views.
Le Capitaine Fracasse offers the budget option (€55/person, €80 with wine or champagne; reserve ahead—easy online—or get there early to secure a table; boarding times vary by season and day of week, walk down stairs in the middle of Bir-Hakeim bridge near the Eiffel Tower to Iles aux Cygne, Mo: Bir-Hakeim or RER: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, tel. 01 46 21 48 15, croisiere-paris.com).
Whether you’re aiming to catch a train or plane, budget plenty of time to reach your departure point. Paris is a big, crowded city, and getting across town on time is a goal you’ll share with millions of other harried people. Factor in traffic delays and walking time through huge stations and vast terminals. At the airport, expect lines at ticketing, check-in, baggage check, and security points. Always keep your luggage safely near you. Pickpockets prey on jet-lagged and confused tourists on public transportation.
Paris’ main airport has three terminals: T-1, T-2, and T-3 (see map). Most flights from the US use T-1 or T-2 (check your ticket, or contact your airline). You can travel between terminals on the free CDGVAL automated shuttle train (departs every 5 minutes, 24/7) or on free shuttle buses. Allow 30 minutes to travel between terminals and an hour for total travel time between your gates at T-1 and T-2. All three terminals have access to ground transportation.
When leaving Paris, plan to arrive at the airport two to three hours early for an overseas flight, or one to two hours for flights within Europe (particularly on budget airlines, which can have especially long check-in lines). For flight info, dial either 3950 from French landlines (€0.35/minute) or, from the US, dial 011 33 1 70 36 39 50, or visit adp.fr.
Services: All terminals have ATMs (distributeurs), shops, cafés, and bars. The airport offers 15 minutes of free (but slow) Wi-Fi; pay €2 for 30 faster additional minutes. If you are returning home and want a VAT refund, look for tax-refund centers in the check-in area or ask for their location at any orange ADP information desk.
Buses, airport vans, commuter trains, and taxis link the airport’s terminals with central Paris. If you’re traveling with two or more companions, carrying lots of baggage, or are just plain tired, taxis are worth the extra cost. If you’re arriving on a weekday morning, however, taxis are much less appealing, as traffic into Paris can be bad—in that case, the train is likely to be a better option.
By Bus: RoissyBus makes the 50-minute trip to the Opéra Métro stop in central Paris, arriving on Rue Scribe. From there, it’s an easy Métro ride to anywhere in the city. To get to the Métro entrance or nearest taxi stand, turn left as you exit the bus and walk counterclockwise around the lavish Opéra building to its front (€10, runs 6:00-23:00, 4/hour until 20:45, 3/hour after that, 50 minutes, buy ticket on bus, tel. 3246, ratp.fr/en).
For Rue Cler hotels, take Métro line 8 (direction: Balard) to La Tour Maubourg or Ecole Militaire. For hotels in the Marais neighborhood, take line 8 (direction: Créteil Préfecture) to the Bastille stop. A taxi to any of my listed hotels costs about €12 from here.
“Les Cars” Air France buses run at least twice hourly from 5:45 until 23:00 (tel. 08 92 35 08 20, lescarsairfrance.com). Bus #2 goes to the Etoile stop near the Arc de Triomphe (€16.50, 45 minutes, see map on here) and Porte Maillot (with connections to Beauvais Airport, described later). Once at the Arc de Triomphe, catch city bus #92 (one block away) to the Rue Cler area. Bus #4 runs to Gare de Lyon (45 minutes) and the Montparnasse Tower/train station (€16.50, 1 hour). Bus #3 goes to Orly airport (€19, 1 hour). Buy tickets from the driver (round-trip tickets or 2 persons traveling together save 20 percent) or online, which saves you an additional 10 percent.
From Paris to the airport, catch Air France buses at Etoile/Arc de Triomphe (on Avenue Carnot—the non-Champs-Elysées side), Porte Maillot (on Boulevard Gouvion-St-Cyr—right side of the Palais des Congres), Gare Montparnasse (on Rue du Commandant René Mouchotte—facing the station with the tower behind you, it’s around the left side), or Gare de Lyon (look for Navette-Aéroport signs, and find the stop on Rue Diderot across from Café Les Deux Savoies).
By Airport Van: The shuttle vans from Charles de Gaulle work like those at home, carrying passengers directly to and from their hotels, with stops along the way to pick up other passengers. Shuttles work best for trips from your hotel to the airport, since they require you to book a precise pickup time in advance—even though you can’t ever know exactly when your flight will actually arrive. Airport vans cost about €32 for one person, €46 for two, and €58 for three. While these vans take longer to reach the airport than a taxi does, compared to taxis they’re a good value for single travelers and big families. Have your hotelier book at least a day in advance.
Several companies offer shuttle service; I usually just go with the one my hotel normally uses. Otherwise, try Paris Shuttles Network (tel. 01 45 26 01 58, shuttlesnetwork.com) or Airport Connection (tel. 01 43 65 55 55, supershuttle.fr).
Paris Webservices’ private car service actually works well from the airport to Paris, because they meet you inside the terminal and wait if you’re late. For a one-way trip they charge €80 for up to two people. Booking round-trip costs about €160-180 for up to four people. Rick Steves readers get a discount by mentioning promo code “PWS52K15” when you reserve, and show your driver this book (tel. 01 45 56 91 67, pariswebservices.com, contact@pariswebservices.com). They also offer guided tours—see here.
By Commuter Train: The RER, Paris’ suburban commuter train, is your cheapest (though not most convenient) option for getting between the airport and the city center (€9.60, runs 5:00-24:00, 4/hour, 30 minutes to Gare du Nord). It runs directly to well-located RER/Métro stations (including Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, St. Michel, and Luxembourg); from there, you can hop the Métro to get exactly where you need to go. The RER is handy and cheap, but it can require walking with your luggage through big, crowded stations—especially at Châtelet-Les Halles, where a transfer to the Métro can take 10-15 minutes and may include stairs.
To reach the RER from the airport terminal, follow Paris by Train signs, then RER signs. (If you’re landing at T-1 or T-3, you’ll need to take the CDGVAL shuttle to reach the RER station.) The RER station at T-2 is also crowded, with long ticket-window lines. It’s faster to buy tickets from the machines (use the green-colored machines labeled Paris/Ile de France, coins required, break your bills at an airport shop). Beware of pickpockets; wear your money belt, and keep your bags close. For step-by-step instructions on taking the RER into Paris, see parisbytrain.com (see the options under “CDG Airport to Paris”).
To return to the airport by RER from central Paris, allow plenty of time to get to your departure gate (plan for a 10-minute Métro or bus ride to the closest RER station serving line B, a 15-minute wait for your train, a 30-minute train ride, plus walking time through the stations and airport). Your Métro or bus ticket is not valid on the RER train to the airport; buy the ticket from a clerk or the machines at the RER-B station. When you catch your train, make sure the sign over the platform shows Aéroport Roissy-Charles de Gaulle as a stop served. (The line splits, so not every line B train serves the airport.) If you’re not clear, ask another rider, “Air-o-por sharl duh gaul?” Once at the airport, hop out either at T-2 or T-1/3 (where you can connect to T-1 or T-3 on the CDGVAL shuttle).
By Taxi: The 50-minute trip costs about €65 (more if traffic is bad). Taxis can carry three people with bags comfortably, and are legally required to accept a fourth passenger for €3 extra (though they may not like it). Larger parties can wait for a larger vehicle. Expect to pay a €1/bag handling fee. Don’t take an unauthorized taxi from cabbies greeting you on arrival. Official taxi stands are well-signed.
For trips from Paris to the airport, have your hotel arrange it. Specify that you want a real taxi (un taxi normal), not a limo service that costs €20 more (and gives your hotel a kickback). For weekday morning departures (7:00-10:00), reserve at least a day ahead (€5 reservation fee payable by credit card). For more on taxis in Paris, see here.
By Car: Car-rental desks are well-signed from the arrival halls. Be prepared for a maze of ramps as you drive away from the lot—get directions from the rental clerks when you do the paperwork.
When returning your car, allow ample time to reach the drop-off lots, especially if flying out of T-2. Be sure you know your flight’s departure hall in T-2 (for example, many Air France and Delta flights for North America leave from T-2E/F). There are separate rental return lots depending on your T-2 departure hall—and imperfect signage can make the return lots especially confusing to navigate.
This easy-to-navigate airport feels small, but has all the services you’d expect at a major airport: ATMs and currency exchange, car-rental desks, cafés, shops, post offices, and more (for flight info from French landlines dial 3950, from the US dial 011 33 1 70 36 39 50, adp.fr). Orly is good for rental-car pickup and drop-off, as it’s closer to Paris and far easier to navigate than Charles de Gaulle Airport.
Shuttle buses (navettes), the RER, taxis, and airport vans connect Paris with either terminal. Bus stops and taxis are centrally located at arrivals levels.
By Bus: Bus bays are found in the Sud terminal outside exits L and G, and in the Ouest terminal outside exits C, D, and H.
“Les Cars” Air France bus #1 runs to Gare Montparnasse, Invalides, and Etoile Métro stops, all of which have connections to several Métro lines. Upon request, drivers will also stop at the Porte d’Orléans Métro stop. For the Rue Cler neighborhood, take the bus to Invalides, then the Métro to La Tour Maubourg or Ecole Militaire. Buses depart from Ouest arrival level exit B-C or Sud exit L: Look for signs to navettes (€12 one-way, 4/hour, 40 minutes to Invalides, buy ticket from driver or save 10 percent by booking online, round-trip tickets or 2 persons traveling together save 20 percent, lescarsairfrance.com).
For the cheapest access to the Marais area, take bus #285 from outside the Sud terminal (direction: Villejuif-Louis Aragon) to the Villejuif Métro station, line 7 (€3.40—two Métro tickets, one for bus #285 and one for the Métro—4/hour).
By Bus and RER: The next two options take you to the RER suburban train’s line B, with access to the Luxembourg Garden area, Notre-Dame Cathedral, handy Métro line 1 at the Châtelet stop, Gare du Nord, and Charles de Gaulle Airport. The Orlybus goes directly to the Denfert-Rochereau Métro and RER-B stations (€7.30, 3/hour, 30 minutes). The pricier but more frequent—and more comfortable—Orlyval shuttle train takes you to the Antony RER station, where you can catch the RER-B (€11.40, 6/hour, 40 minutes, buy ticket before boarding). The Orlyval train is well signed and leaves from the departure level at both terminals. Once at the RER-B station, take the train in direction: Mitry-Claye or Aéroport Charles de Gaulle to reach central Paris stops.
For access to RER line C, take the bus marked Pont de Rungis. From the Pont de Rungis station, you can catch the RER-C to Gare d’Austerlitz, St. Michel/Notre-Dame, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides and Pont de l’Alma (€7.30, 4/hour, 40 minutes).
By Taxi: Taxis are outside the Ouest terminal exit B, and to the far right as you leave the Sud terminal at exit M. Allow €45 with bags for a taxi into central Paris.
By Airport Van: Airport vans are a good means of getting from Paris to the airport, especially for single travelers or families of four or more (too many for most taxis; see here). From Orly, figure about €23 for one person or €30 for two people (less per person for larger groups and kids).
Budget airlines such as Ryanair use this small airport, offering dirt-cheap airfares but leaving you 50 miles north of Paris. Still, this airport has direct buses to Paris and is handy for travelers heading to Normandy or Belgium (car rental available). The airport is basic, waiting areas are crowded, and services are sparse, but improvements are gradually on the way (airport tel. 08 92 68 20 66—lines open daily 8:00-20:00, aeroportbeauvais.com; Ryanair tel. 08 92 78 02 10—lines open Mon-Fri 9:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00; ryanair.com).
By Bus: Buses depart from the airport when they’re full (about 20 minutes after flights arrive) and take 1.5 hours to reach Paris. Buy your ticket (€16 one-way) at the little kiosk to the right as you exit the airport. Buses arrive at Porte Maillot on the western edge of Paris (on Métro line 1 and RER-C). The closest taxi stand is at Hôtel Concorde-Lafayette (which may become a Hyatt in 2015).
Buses heading to Beauvais Airport leave from Porte Maillot about 3.25 hours before scheduled flight departures. Catch the bus in the parking lot on Boulevard Pershing next to Hôtel Concorde-Lafayette. Arrive with enough time to purchase your bus ticket before boarding, or buy online at tickets.aeroportbeauvais.com.
By Train: Trains connect Beauvais’ city center and Paris’ Gare du Nord (20/day, 1.25 hours). To reach Beauvais’ train station, take the Beauvais navette shuttle bus (€4.50, 6/day, 30 minutes) or local bus #12 (€1, 12/day, 30 minutes).
By Taxi: Taxis run from Beauvais Airport to Beauvais’ train station or city center (€15), or to central Paris (allow €150 and 1.25 hours).
Paris is Europe’s rail hub, with six major stations and one minor one, and trains heading in different directions:
• Gare du Nord (northbound trains)
• Gare Montparnasse (west- and southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Lyon (southeast-bound trains)
• Gare de l’Est (eastbound trains)
• Gare St. Lazare (northwest-bound trains)
• Gare d’Austerlitz (southwest-bound trains)
• Gare de Bercy (smaller station with non-TGV southbound trains)
All six main train stations have banks or currency exchanges, ATMs, train information desks, telephones, cafés, newsstands, and clever pickpockets (pay attention in ticket lines—keep your bag gripped firmly in front of you). Because of security concerns, not all have baggage checks.
Any train station has schedule information, can make reservations, and can sell tickets for any destination. Or you can save time and stress by buying train tickets or making train reservations at an SNCF Boutique. These small branch offices of the French national rail company are conveniently located throughout Paris, with offices near most of my recommended hotels and museums and at Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports. Arrive when they open to avoid lines (generally open Mon-Sat 8:30-19:00 or 20:00, closed Sun). For a complete list of SNCF Boutiques, see megacomik.info/boutiquesncf.htm.
Each station offers two types of rail service: long distance to other cities, called Grandes Lignes (major lines); and suburban service to nearby areas, called Banlieue, Transilien, or RER. You also may see ticket windows identified as Ile de France. These are for Transilien trains serving destinations outside Paris in the Ile de France region (usually no more than an hour from Paris). When arriving by Métro, follow signs for Grandes Lignes-SNCF to find the main tracks. Métro and RER trains, as well as buses and taxis, are well-marked at every station.
Budget plenty of time before your departure to factor in ticket lines and making your way through large, crowded stations. Paris train stations can be intimidating, but if you slow down, take a deep breath, and ask for help, you’ll find them manageable and efficient. Bring a pad of paper for clear communication at ticket/info windows. All stations have helpful information booths (accueil); the bigger stations have roving helpers, usually wearing red or blue vests. They’re capable of answering rail questions more quickly than the staff at the information desks or ticket windows. I make a habit of confirming my track number and departure time with these helpers.
Key Destinations Served by Gare du Nord Grandes Lignes: Bruges (at least hourly, 2.5-3 hours, change in Brussels), Amsterdam (8-10/day, 3.5 hours direct), Berlin (4/day, 8.25 hours, 1-2 changes, via Belgium, non-Belgium-traversing trains leave from Gare de l’Est), Copenhagen (7/day, 14-18 hours, 1 night train), and London via Eurostar Chunnel train (12-15/day, 2.5-3 hours. Routes via Brussels (e.g., to Amsterdam and Bruges) require taking the pricey Thalys train; for details and tips, see “Amsterdam Connections” on here.
Key Destinations Served by Gare du Nord Banlieue/RER Lines: Charles de Gaulle Airport (4/hour, 45 minutes, runs 5:00-24:00, track 41-44).
Key Destinations Served by Gare Montparnasse: Chartres (hourly, 65 minutes), Madrid (3/day, 12-14 hours), and Lisbon (2/day, 21-24 hours via Irun).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de Lyon: Avignon (9/day in 2.5 hours to Avignon TGV Station, 5/day in 3.5 hours to Avignon Centre-Ville station, more connections with change—3-4 hours), Arles (11/day, 2 direct TGVs—4 hours, 9 with change in Avignon—5 hours), Nice (hourly, 5.75 hours, may require change, 11.5-hour night train possible out of Gare d’Austerlitz), Venice (5/day, 10-12 hours with 1-3 changes; 1 direct overnight, 14 hours, operated by private company Thello—which doesn’t accept rail passes, important to reserve ahead at thello.com), Rome (3/day, 11-16 hours; 1 night train, 14 hours, operated by private company Thello—which doesn’t accept rail passes, important to reserve ahead at thello.com), Interlaken (7/day, 5-6.5 hours, 1-3 changes, 2 more from Gare de l’Est), and Barcelona (2/day, 6.5 hours, change in Figueres).
Key Destinations Served by Gare de l’Est: Interlaken (2/day, 6.5 hours, 2-3 changes, 7 more from Gare de Lyon), Frankfurt (5 direct/day, 4 hours; 4 more/day with change in Karlsruhe, 4.5 hours), Vienna (7/day, 12-17 hours, 1-3 changes, night train via Munich or Frankfurt), Prague (5/day, 12-18 hours, night train via Mannheim or Munich), Munich (6/day, 6 hours, most with 1 change, 1 direct night train), and Berlin (5/day, 8.5 hours, 1-2 changes; 1 direct night train, 12.5 hours).
Key Destinations Served by Gare St. Lazare: Bayeux (9/day, 2.5 hours, some change in Caen), Caen (14/day, 2 hours), and Pontorson/Mont St-Michel (3/day, 4-5.5 hours, via Caen; more trains from Gare Montparnasse).
Key Destination Served by Gare d’Austerlitz: Versailles (via RER-C, 4/hour, 35 minutes).
Every king’s dream, Versailles (vehr-“sigh”) was the residence of French monarchs and the cultural heartbeat of Europe for about 100 years—until the Revolution of 1789 changed all that. The Sun King (Louis XIV) created Versailles, spending freely from the public treasury to turn his dad’s hunting lodge into a palace fit for the gods (among whom he counted himself). Louis XV and Louis XVI spent much of the 18th century gilding Louis XIV’s lily. In 1837, about 50 years after the royal family was evicted by citizen-protesters, King Louis-Philippe opened the palace as a museum. Today you can visit parts of the huge palace and wander through acres of manicured gardens sprinkled with fountains and studded with statues. Europe’s next-best palaces are just Versailles wannabes.
Worth ▲▲▲, Versailles offers three blockbuster sights. The main attraction is the palace itself, called the Château. Here you walk through dozens of lavish, chandeliered rooms once inhabited by Louis XIV and his successors. Next come the expansive Gardens behind the palace, a landscaped wonderland dotted with statues and fountains. Finally, at the far end of the Gardens, is the pastoral area called the Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette (a.k.a. Trianon/Domaine), designed for frolicking blue bloods and featuring several small palaces and Marie’s Hamlet—perfect for getting away from the mobs at the Château.
In general, allow 1.5 hours each for the Château, the Gardens, and the Trianon/Domaine. Add another two hours for round-trip transit, plus another hour for lunch, and you’re looking at an eight-hour day—at the very least.
Visiting Versailles can seem daunting because of its size and hordes of visitors. But if you follow my tips, a trip here during even the busiest times is manageable.
By Train: The town of Versailles is 35 minutes southwest of Paris. Take the RER-C train (4/hour, 35 minutes one-way, €6.60 round-trip) from any of these Paris RER stops: Gare d’Austerlitz, St. Michel, Musée d’Orsay, Invalides, Pont de l’Alma, or Champ de Mars. You can buy your train tickets at any Métro ticket window in Paris—for no extra cost it will include the connection from that Métro stop to the RER. At the RER station, catch any train listed as “Versailles Château R.G.” or “Versailles Château Rive Gauche” (Château Rive Gauche is the Versailles station closest to the Château—there are two others). Ride to the last stop.
At the Versailles Château R.G. train station, exit through the turnstiles by inserting your ticket. Ignore any hawkers peddling guided Versailles tours and tickets. To reach the palace, simply follow the crowds: Turn right out of the station, then left at the first boulevard, and walk 10 minutes. When returning to Paris, just catch the first train you see: All trains serve all downtown Paris RER stops on the C line.
An hourly shuttle bus links the Versailles Château R.G. train station to a stop near the Trianon/Domaine, but doesn’t go to the palace. It’s ideal if you’re visiting the Trianon/Domaine first, before the Château—or if you want to return to the train station from the Trianon/Domaine (€2—or one Métro ticket, runs mid-April-Oct only, check current schedule for “Ligne TRI” at phebus.tm.fr or at the small Phébus office across from the Versailles R.G. train station, near McDonald’s).
By Taxi: The 30-minute ride (without traffic) between Versailles and Paris costs about €60.
By Car: Get on the périphérique freeway that circles Paris, and take the toll-free A-13 autoroute toward Rouen. Exit at Versailles, follow signs to Versailles Château, and park in the huge pay lot at Place d’Armes (€6/2 hours, €10/4 hours, €16/8 hours).
Cost: Buy either a Paris Museum Pass or a Versailles Le Passeport Pass, both of which give you access to the most important parts of the complex (see “Passes” later). If you don’t get a pass, buy individual tickets for each of the three different sections.
The Château: €15, includes audioguide, under 18 free. Covers the famous Hall of Mirrors, the king and queen’s living quarters, many lesser rooms, and any temporary exhibitions. For €7 more, you can get a guided tour of the Château—a sensational deal (see “Guided Tours,” later). Free on the first Sunday of off-season months (Nov-March only).
The Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette: €10, no audioguide available, under 18 free. Covers the Grand Trianon and its gardens, the Petit Trianon, the queen’s Hamlet, and a smattering of nearby buildings. Free on the first Sunday of off-season months (Nov-March only).
The Gardens: Free, except on Spectacle days, when admission is €8.50 (weekends April-Oct plus many Tue; see “Spectacles in the Gardens,” later).
Passes: The following passes can save money and allow you to skip the long ticket-buying lines (but not security checks before entering the palaces). Both passes include the Château audioguide.
The Paris Museum Pass (see here) covers the Château and the Trianon/Domaine area (a €25 value) and is the best solution for most. It doesn’t include the Gardens on Spectacle days.
The Le Passeport one-day pass costs €18 and covers the Château and the Trianon/Domaine area. The price bumps up to €25 on Spectacle days.
Buying Passes and Tickets: It’s best to buy tickets or passes before arriving at the Château. They’re easiest to get at the municipal TI in Versailles: You’ll walk right by the office on your way to the Château from the RER station (see “Information,” later). Versailles tickets are also available at any Paris TI, FNAC department store (small fee), or online at chateauversailles.fr (print out your pass/ticket or pick it up near the entrance).
Your last option is to buy your pass or ticket at the Château ticket-sales office (to the left as you face the palace). Ticket windows accept American credit cards but have long lines in the morning—avoid the wait by using the ticket machines at the back of the room (you’ll need a chip-and-PIN card or bills—which half the machines accept).
Hours: The Château is open April-Oct Tue-Sun 9:00-18:30, Nov-March Tue-Sun 9:00-17:30; closed Mon year-round.
The Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette are open April-Oct Tue-Sun 12:00-18:30, Nov-March Tue-Sun 12:00-17:30; closed Mon year-round (off-season only the two Trianon Palaces are open, not the Hamlet or other outlying buildings).
The Gardens are open April-Oct daily 9:00-20:30, but may close earlier for special events; Nov-March Tue-Sun 8:00-18:00, closed Mon.
Last entry to all areas is 30 minutes before closing.
Crowd-Beating Strategies: Versailles can be packed May-Sept 10:00-13:00. Avoid Tuesdays and Sundays, when the place is jammed with a slow shuffle of tourists from open to close. Ticket and security lines can be long: To skip the ticket-buying line, use a Paris Museum Pass or Le Passeport, buy tickets in advance, or book a guided tour. Unless you take a guided tour, everyone—including holders of advance tickets and passes—must go through security at the Château’s Royal Gate entrance (longest lines 10:00-12:00).
Pickpockets: Assume pickpockets are working the tourist crowds.
Information: Before you go, check the excellent website for updates and special events—chateauversailles.fr. The palace’s general contact number is tel. 01 30 83 78 00. Versailles has two information offices. You’ll pass the city TI on your walk from the RER station to the palace—it’s just past the Pullman Hôtel (daily 9:00-19:00, tel. 01 39 24 88 88). The information office at the Château is on the left side of the courtyard as you face the Château (WCs, toll tel. 08 10 81 16 14). Pick up the free, useful map just inside the Château.
Guided Tours: The 1.5-hour English guided tour gives you access to a few extra rooms (the lineup varies) and lets you skip those long entry lines (€22 includes palace entry—just €7 more than entry alone). Ignore the tours hawked near the train station. You can book a tour in advance on the palace’s website, or reserve immediately upon arrival at the guided-tours office in the Château courtyard—it’s to your right as you approach the palace (look for Visites Conferences signs). Tours can sell out by 13:00. At least two English tours run every day, usually departing at 9:30 and 14:00—but often running hourly from 9:00 to 15:00 (tours are added as guides become available). If you weren’t able to book online, try reserving in person—they almost always run more tours than they’ve listed on the website.
Audioguides: A free audioguide to the Château is included in your admission (pick up just inside the palace, return as you leave). You can download a free Rick Steves audio tour of Versailles; see here. Other podcasts and digital tours are available in the “multimedia” section at chateauversailles.fr. The palace audioguide and my audio tour complement one another: Eager students can easily transfer earbuds between devices and listen to both tours as you shuffle through the lavish rooms.
Baggage Check: Large bags and baby strollers are not allowed in the Château and the two Trianons (use a baby backpack or hire a babysitter for the day); you must use the free baggage check and retrieve your items one hour before closing.
Services: There are WCs on either side of the Château courtyard (in the ticket-sales office and in the guided-tours office), immediately upon entering the Château (Entrance H), and near the exit from the Dauphin’s Apartments. You’ll also find WCs near the Grand Café d’Orléans, in the Gardens near the Latona Basin, at the Grand Canal, in the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon, and at several other places scattered around the grounds. Any café generally has a WC.
Photography: Allowed, but no flash indoors.
Eating: To the left of the Château’s golden Royal Gate entrance, the Grand Café d’Orléans offers good-value self-service meals (€5 sandwiches and small salads, great for picnicking in the Gardens). In the Gardens, you’ll find several cafés and snack stands with fair prices. Most are located near the Latona Fountain (less crowded) and in a delightful cluster at the Grand Canal (more crowds and more choices, including two restaurants).
In town, restaurants are on the street to the right of the parking lot (as you face the Château). Handy McDonald’s and Starbucks (both with WCs) are across from the train station. The best choices are on the lively Place du Marché Notre-Dame in the town center, with a supermarket nearby.
Spectacles in the Gardens: The Gardens and fountains at Versailles come alive at selected times, offering visitors a glimpse into Louis XIV’s remarkable world. The Sun King had his engineers literally reroute a river to fuel his fountains and feed his plants. Even by today’s standards, the fountains are impressive. Check the Versailles website for current hours and for what else might be happening during your visit.
On non-winter weekends—and some spring Tuesdays—the Gardens’ fountains are in full squirt. The whole production, called Les Grandes Eaux Musicales, involves 55 fountains gushing for an hour in the morning, then again for about two hours in the afternoon, all accompanied by loud classical music (€8.50, April-Oct Sat-Sun 11:00-12:00 & 15:30-17:30, plus late May-June Tue 11:00-12:00 & 14:30-16:00). Pay at the entrance to the Gardens, unless you’ve bought Le Passeport—in which case you’ve already paid (automatically tacked onto Passeport price on Spectacle days).
On most other in-season Tuesdays you get all-day music, but no water with the Les Jardins Musicaux program (€7.50, April-mid-May and July-Oct Tue 9:00-18:30).
On certain summer weekend nights you get the big shebang: Les Grandes Eaux Nocturnes, which presents whimsical lighted displays leading between gushing fountains and a fireworks show over the largest fountain pool (€23, mid-June-mid-July Fri-Sat at 21:00, plus Sat at 21:00 mid-July-mid-Sept).
Starring: Luxurious palaces, endless gardens, Louis XIV, Marie-Antoinette, and the ancien régime.
On this self-guided tour, we’ll see the Château (the State Apartments of the king and queen as well as the Hall of Mirrors), the landscaped Gardens in the “backyard,” and the Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette, located at the far end of the Gardens. If your time is limited or you don’t enjoy walking, skip the Trianon/Domaine, which is a 30-minute hike from the Château.
This commentary, which leads you through the various attractions at Versailles, covers just the basics. For a detailed room-by-room rundown, consider Rick Steves’ Paris (buy in the US or at any of the English-language bookstores in Paris listed earlier in this chapter) or the guidebook called The Châteaux, the Gardens, and Trianon (sold at Versailles).
Stand in the huge courtyard and face the palace. The golden Royal Gate in the center of the courtyard, nearly 260 feet long and decorated with 100,000 gold leaves, is a recent replica of the original. The ticket-sales office is to the left; guided-tour sales are to the right. The entrance to the Château (once you have your ticket or pass) is through the modern concrete-and-glass security checkpoint, marked Entrance A. After passing through security, you spill out into the open-air courtyard on the other side of the golden Royal Gate.
Enter the Château from the courtyard at Entrance H—the State Apartments. Inside are an info desk (get a free map), WCs, and free audioguides.
The one-way walk through the palace leads you past the dazzling 700-seat Royal Opera House (open for guided tours only); by the intimate, two-tiered Royal Chapel; and through the glamorous State Apartments. In the King’s Wing you’ll see a billiard room, a royal make-out room, the Swiss bodyguard room, Louis’ official bedroom, his grand throne room (the Apollo Room—with a 10-foot-tall canopied throne), and his war rooms.
Next you’ll visit the magnificent Hall of Mirrors—250 feet long, with 17 arched mirrors matching 17 windows looking out upon royal garden views. The mirrors—a luxury at the time—reflect an age when beautiful people loved to look at themselves. In another age altogether, this was the room in which the Treaty of Versailles was signed, ending World War I.
You’ll finish in the Queen’s Wing, where you’ll visit the Queen’s bedchamber, the guard room where Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette surrendered to the Revolution, and Napoleon’s coronation room.
The Gardens offer a world of royal amusements. The warmth from the Sun King was so great that he could even grow orange trees in chilly France. Louis XIV had a thousand of these to amaze his visitors. In winter they were kept in the greenhouses (beneath your feet) that surround the courtyard. On sunny days, they were wheeled out in their silver planters and scattered around the grounds.
With the palace behind you, it seems as if the grounds stretch out forever. Versailles was laid out along an eight-mile axis that included the grounds, the palace, and the town of Versailles itself, one of the first instances of urban planning since Roman times and a model for future capitals, such as Washington, D.C., and Brasilia. A promenade leads from the palace to the Grand Canal, where France’s royalty floated up and down in imported Venetian gondolas.
Versailles began as an escape from the pressures of kingship. But in a short time, the Château had become as busy as Paris ever was. Louis XIV needed an escape from his escape and built a smaller palace out in the boonies. Later, his successors retreated still farther from the Château and French political life, ignoring the real world that was crumbling all around them. They expanded the Trianon area, building a fantasy world of palaces and pleasure gardens—the enclosure called Marie-Antoinette’s Domaine.
The beautifully restored Grand Trianon Palace is as sumptuous as the main palace, but much smaller. With its pastel-pink colonnade and more human scale, this is a place you’d like to call home. Nearby are the French Pavilion, Marie-Antoinette’s Theater, and the octagonal Belvedere palace.
You can almost see princesses bobbing gaily in the branches as you walk through the enchanting forest, past the white marble Temple of Love to the queen’s fake-peasant Hamlet (le Hameau). Marie-Antoinette’s happiest days were spent at the Hamlet, under a bonnet, tending her perfumed sheep and manicured gardens in a thatch-happy wonderland.
Despite her bad reputation with the public, Marie-Antoinette was a sweet girl from Vienna who never quite fit in with the fast, sophisticated crowd at Versailles. She made the Petit Trianon, a masterpiece of Neoclassical architecture, a place to get away and re-create the simple home life she remembered from her childhood. Here she played, while in the cafés of faraway Paris, revolutionaries plotted the end of the ancien régime.