Map: Public Transportation in Provence
Map: Arles Hotels & Restaurants
Map: Avignon Hotels & Restaurants
This magnificent region is shaped like a giant wedge of quiche. From its sunburned crust, fanning out along the Mediterranean coast from the Camargue to Marseille, it stretches north along the Rhône Valley to Orange. The Romans were here in force and left many ruins—some of the best anywhere. Seven popes, artists such as Vincent van Gogh and Paul Cézanne, and author Peter Mayle all enjoyed their years in Provence. This destination features a splendid recipe of arid climate, oceans of vineyards, dramatic scenery, lively cities, and adorable hill-capping villages.
Explore France’s greatest Roman ruin, the Pont du Gard aqueduct. Admire the skill of ball-tossing boules players in small squares in every Provençal village and city. Spend a few Van Gogh-inspired starry, starry nights in Arles. Youthful but classy Avignon bustles in the shadow of its brooding Palace of the Popes.
Make Arles or Avignon your sightseeing base—particularly if you have no car. Italophiles prefer smaller Arles, while poodles pick urban Avignon. Arles has a blue-collar quality; the entire city feels like Van Gogh’s bedroom. Avignon—double the size of Arles—feels sophisticated, with more nightlife and shopping, and makes a good base for non-drivers thanks to its convenient public-transit options.
When budgeting your time, you’ll want a full day for sightseeing in Arles (for example, spend most of the day in Arles—best on Wed or Sat, when it’s market day); a half-day for Avignon; and a day or two for the villages and sights in the countryside.
Pont du Gard is a 50-minute bus ride west of Avignon.
By Bus or Train: Public transit is good between cities and decent to some towns, but marginal at best to the smaller villages. Frequent trains link Avignon and Arles (no more than 30 minutes between each). From Avignon, you can bus to Pont du Gard.
By Car: The region is made to order for a car, though travel time between some sights will surprise you—thanks, in part, to narrow roads and endless roundabouts. The yellow Michelin map #340 (Arles area) is worth considering; the larger-scale orange Michelin map #527 also includes the Riviera. Avignon (pop. 110,000) is a headache for drivers. Arles (pop. 52,000) is easier but still challenging. Be wary of thieves—this is France’s worst area for car break-ins. Park only in well-monitored spaces and leave nothing valuable in your car.
Dutchman Mike Rijken runs a one-man show, taking travelers through the region he adopted more than 20 years ago. Mike came to France to train as a chef, later became a wine steward, and has now found his calling as a driver/guide. His English is fluent, and though his focus is on wine and wine villages, Mike knows the region thoroughly and is a good teacher of its history (€75/half-day, €130/day, priced per person, group size varies from 2 to 6; pickups possible in Arles, Avignon, Lyon, Marseille, or Aix-en-Provence; tel. 04 90 35 59 21, mobile 06 19 29 50 81, winesafari.net, mikeswinesafari@orange.fr).
Celine Viany is a retired wine sommelier turned charming tour guide. She’s an easy-to-be-with expert on her region and its chief product (from €75/half-day per person, from €90/day for up to 6 people, tel. 04 90 46 90 80, mobile 06 76 59 56 30, levinalabouche.com, contact@degustation-levinalabouche.com).
Discover Provence is run by English-born Sarah Pernet, who has lived in Aix-en-Provence since 2001 and runs well-organized and easygoing small-group tours of Provence with a focus on Aix-en-Provence and nearby villages (€80/half-day, €140/day, priced per person, private tours from €219/day for up to 6 people, tel. 0 6 16 86 40 24, discover-provence.net, discoverprovence@hotmail.com).
Art historian and photographer Daniela Wedel moved from Germany to Provence about 13 years ago after falling in love with southern France. She and her team of guides eagerly share their passion for the history, food, wine, and people of Provence (€170/half-day, €350/day, price varies depending on itinerary and number of people, tel. 06 43 86 30 83, daniela@treasure-europe.com).
For a playful and distinctly French perspective on wines of the Côtes du Rhône region, contact François Marcou, who runs his tours with passion and energy, offering different itineraries every day (€110/person for all-day wine tours that include 4 tastings, €80/person for half-day tours, €350 for private groups, mobile 06 28 05 33 84, avignon-wine-tour.com, avignon.wine.tour@modulonet.fr).
Unlike most tour operators, this nonprofit organization focuses on cultural excursions, offering low-key, personalized tours that allow visitors to discover the “true heart of Provence and Occitania.” The itineraries are adapted to your interests, and the guides will meet you at your hotel or the departure point of your choice (€190/half-day, €315/day, prices are for up to 4 people starting from the region around Avignon or Arles, mobile 06 89 22 19 87, imagine-tours.net, imagine.tours@gmail.com). They are also happy to help you plan your itinerary, book hotel rooms, or address other traveler issues.
Passionate and engaging Englishman Olivier Hickman takes small groups on focused tours of selected wineries in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and in the villages near Vaison la Romaine. Olivier is serious about wine and knows his subject matter inside and out. His in-depth tastings include a half-day tour of two or three wineries—the Châteauneuf-du-Pape tour is especially popular. He also offers multiday tours with food and wine tastings, and can help arrange transportation (€35-70/person for half-day to full-day tours, prices subject to minimum tour fees, mobile 06 75 10 10 01, wine-uncovered.com, olivier.hickman@wine-uncovered.com).
American Doug Graves, who owns a small wine domaine in the Côtes du Rhône, shares his passion for his adopted region, its people, and its wines on his custom tours of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the villages of the Côtes du Rhône, and the Luberon Valley (€100/person, price is for up to 4 people, mobile 06 37 16 04 56, toursdurhone.com, doug@masdelalionne.com).
Experienced guide and wine connoisseur Joe McLean offers tours focused on the wines of Uzès, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the Côtes du Rhône. He also organizes custom tours at fair prices (€55-110/person, tel. 04 66 22 72 19, promo-vinum.com/gb/winetours, info@promo-vinum.com).
This company runs day tours from Avignon and Arles. Tours from Avignon run year-round and include a great variety of destinations; tours from Arles run April through September only and are more limited in scope. While these tours provide introductory commentary to what you’ll see, there is no guiding at the actual sights. They use eight-seat, air-conditioned minivans (about €60-80/half-day, €100-120/day; they’ll pick you up at your hotel in Avignon or at the main TI in Arles). Ask about their cheaper big-bus excursions, or consider hiring a van and driver for your private use (plan on €220/half-day, €490/day, tel. 04 90 14 70 00, provence-reservation.com).
By helping Julius Caesar defeat his archrival Gnaeus Pompey at Marseille, Arles (pronounced “arl”) earned the imperial nod and was made an important port city. With the first bridge over the Rhône River, Arles was a key stop on the Roman road from Italy to Spain, the Via Domitia. After reigning as the seat of an important archbishop and a trading center for centuries, the city became a sleepy backwater of little importance in the 1700s. Vincent van Gogh settled here in the late 1800s, but left only a chunk of his ear (now long gone). American bombers destroyed much of Arles in World War II as the townsfolk hid out in its underground Roman galleries. But today Arles thrives again, with its evocative Roman ruins, an eclectic assortment of museums, made-for-ice-cream pedestrian zones, and squares that play hide-and-seek with visitors.
Workaday Arles is not a wealthy city, and compared to its neighbors Avignon and Nîmes, it feels unpolished and even a little dirty. But to me, that’s part of its charm.
Arles faces the Mediterranean, turning its back on Paris. And though the town is built along the Rhône, it largely ignores the river. Landmarks hide in Arles’ medieval tangle of narrow, winding streets. Virtually everything is close—but first-timers can walk forever to get there. Hotels have good, free city maps, and Arles provides helpful street-corner signs that point you toward sights and hotels. Speeding cars enjoy Arles’ medieval lanes, turning sidewalks into tightropes and pedestrians into leaping targets.
The main TI is on the ring road Boulevard des Lices, at Esplanade Charles de Gaulle (April-Sept daily 9:00-18:45; Oct-March Mon-Sat 9:00-16:45, Sun 10:00-13:00; tel. 04 90 18 41 20, arlestourisme.com). There’s also a train station TI (Mon-Fri 9:30-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sat-Sun).
At either TI, pick up the city map and bus schedules, and request English information on nearby destinations such as the Camargue wildlife area. Ask about “bullgames” in Arles and nearby towns (Provence’s more humane version of bullfights—see here) and walking tours. Skip the useless €1 brochure describing several walks in Arles, including one that locates Van Gogh’s “easels”. Both TIs can help you reserve hotel rooms (credit card required for deposit).
By Train: The train station is on the river, a 10-minute walk from the town center. Before heading into town, get what you need at the train station TI. There’s no baggage storage at the station, but you can walk 10 minutes to stow it at Hôtel Régence (see “Helpful Hints,” later).
To reach the town center or Ancient History Museum from the train station, wait for the free Envia minibus at the glass shelter facing away from the station (cross the street and veer left, 3/hour Mon-Sat 7:00-19:00, none Sun). The bus makes a counterclockwise loop around Arles, stopping near most of my recommended hotels. It’s a 15-minute walk into town (turn left out of the train station). Taxis usually wait in front of the station, but if you don’t see any, call the posted telephone numbers, or dial 04 89 73 36 00. If the train station TI is open, you can ask them to call. Taxi rates are fixed—allow about €11 to any of my recommended hotels.
By Bus: All buses stop at the Centre-Ville bus station, a few blocks below the main TI, on the ring road at 16-24 Boulevard Georges Clemenceau. Buses to Avignon’s TGV Station also stop at the train station.
By Car: Most hotels have parking nearby—ask for detailed directions (€3/8 hours at most meters; free Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 19:00-9:00, and all day Sun; some meters limited to 2.5 hours). For most hotels, first follow signs to Centre-Ville, then Gare SNCF (train station). You’ll come to a big roundabout (Place Lamartine) with a Monoprix department store to the right. You can park along the city wall and find your hotel on foot; the hotels I list are no more than a 10-minute walk away (best not to park here overnight due to theft concerns and markets on Wed and Sat). Fearless drivers can plunge into the narrow streets between the two stumpy towers via Rue de la Calade, and follow signs to their hotel. Again, theft is a problem—leave nothing in your car, and trust your hotelier’s advice on where to park.
If you can’t find parking near your hotel, Parking des Lices (Arles’ only parking garage), near the TI on Boulevard des Lices, is a good fallback (€2.30/hour, €16/24 hours).
Market Days: The big markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays. For details, see here.
Crowds: An international photo event jams hotels the second weekend of July. The let-’er-rip, twice-yearly Féria draws crowds over Easter and in mid-September.
Internet Access: A cyber café is near Place Voltaire at 31 Rue Augustin Tardieu (daily, tel. 04 90 18 87 40).
Baggage Storage and Bike Rental: The recommended Hôtel Régence will store your bags for €3 (daily 7:30-22:00 mid-March-mid-Nov, closed in winter, 5 Rue Marius Jouveau). They also rent bikes (€7/half-day, €14/day, one-way rentals within Provence possible, same hours as baggage storage) and may have electric bikes—ask.
Laundry: A launderette is at 12 Rue Portagnel (daily 7:00-21:30, you can stay later to finish if you’re already inside, English instructions).
Car Rental: Avis is at the train station (tel. 08 20 05 05 05); Europcar and Hertz are downtown (Europcar is at 61 Avenue de Stalingrad, tel. 04 90 93 23 24; Hertz is closer to Place Voltaire at 10 Boulevard Emile Combes, tel. 04 90 96 75 23).
Local Guides: Charming Agnes Barrier, who knows Arles and nearby sights intimately, enjoys her work. Her tours cover Van Gogh and Roman history (€130/3 hours, mobile 06 11 23 03 73, agnes.barrier@hotmail.fr). Alice Vallat loves her native city and offers a variety of scheduled visits of its key sights (€10/person, otherwise €120/3 hours, tel. 06 74 01 22 54 or 04 90 47 75 68, guidearles.com, alice.vallat@voila.fr).
English Book Exchange: A small exchange is available at the recommended Soleileis ice-cream shop.
Public Pools: Arles has three pools (indoor and outdoor). Ask at the TI or your hotel.
Boules: The local “bouling alley” is by the river on Place Lamartine. After their afternoon naps, the old boys congregate here for a game of pétanque.
Updates to This Book: For updates to this book, check ricksteves.com/update.
In this flat city, everything’s within walking distance. Only the Ancient History Museum requires a healthy walk (or you can take a taxi or bus). The elevated riverside promenade provides Rhône views and a direct route to the Ancient History Museum (to the southwest) and the train station (to the northeast). Keep your head up for Starry Night memories, but eyes down for decorations by dogs with poorly trained owners.
Arles’ taxis charge a set fee of about €11, but nothing except the Ancient History Museum is worth a taxi ride. To call a cab, dial 04 89 73 36 00 or 04 90 96 90 03.
The free Envia minibus circles the town, useful for access to the train station and the Ancient History Museum (see map on here, 3/hour, Mon-Sat 7:00-19:00, none Sun).
Le Petit Train d’Arles, a typical tourist train, gives you the lay of the land—if you prefer sitting to walking (€7, 35 minutes, stops in front of the main TI and at the Roman Arena).
▲▲Ancient History Museum (Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques)
From Forum Square to the Roman Arena
▲▲Forum Square (Place du Forum)
Republic Square (Place de la République)
Cryptoporticos (Cryptoportiques)
Classical Theater (Théâtre Antique)
Baths of Constantine (Thermes de Constantin)
▲Arlaten Folk Museum (Musée Arlaten/Museon Arlaten)
Most sights cost €3.50-7, and though any sight warrants a few minutes, many aren’t worth their individual admission price. The TI sells two different monument passes (called Passeports). Le Passeport Avantage covers almost all of Arles’ sights (€13.50, under age 18-€12); Le Passeport Liberté (€9) lets you choose any five monuments (one must be a museum). Depending on your interests, the €9 Passeport is probably best.
Start at the Ancient History Museum (closed Tue) for a helpful overview (drivers should try to do this museum on their way into Arles), then dive into the city-center sights. Remember, many sights stop selling tickets 30-60 minutes before closing (both before lunch and at the end of the day).
Begin your town visit here, for Roman Arles 101. Located on the site of the Roman chariot racecourse (the arc of which is built into the parking lot), this air-conditioned, all-on-one-floor museum is just west of central Arles along the river. Models and original sculptures (with almost no posted English translations but a decent handout) re-create the Roman city, making workaday life and culture easier to imagine.
Cost and Hours: €8, Wed-Mon 10:00-18:00, closed Tue, Presqu’île du Cirque Romain, tel. 04 13 31 51 03, arles-antique.cg13.fr. Ask for the English booklet, which provides a helpful if not in-depth background on the collection.
Getting There: To reach the museum, take the free Envia minibus (stops at the train station and along Rue du 4 Septembre, then along the river, 3/hour Mon-Sat, none Sun). If you’re coming on foot from the city center (a 20-minute walk), turn left at the river and take the scruffy riverside path under two bridges to the big, modern blue building (or better, consider strolling through Arles’ enjoyable La Roquette neighborhood, described later). As you approach the museum, you’ll pass the verdant Hortus Garden—designed to recall the Roman circus and chariot racecourse that were located here. A taxi ride costs €11 (museum can call a taxi for your return).
Visiting the Museum: The permanent collection is housed in two large rooms separated by dividers and exhibits.
A wall map of the region during the Roman era greets visitors and shows the geographic importance of Arles: Three important Roman trade routes—vias Domitia, Grippa, and Aurelia—all converged on or near Arles. In the next area, you’ll see a model of a pre-Roman settlement (compare this hovel with the elegant buildings constructed during the Roman period). You’ll then pass maps showing Roman Arles’ expanding city limits.
Next, you’ll see models of every Roman structure in (and near) Arles. These are the highlight for me, as they breathe life into the buildings as they looked 2,000 years ago. Start with the model of Roman Arles and ponder the city’s splendor over 2,000 years ago when Arles’ population was double that of today. That’s something to chew on. Find the forum—still the center of town today, though only two columns survive (the smaller section of the forum is where today’s Place du Forum is built). Look at the space Romans devoted to their arena and huge racecourse—a reminder that an emphasis on sports is not unique to modern civilizations (the museum you’re in is at the non-city end of the course). The model also illustrates how little Arles seems to have changed over two millennia, with its houses still clustered around the city center, and warehouses still located on the opposite side of the river.
Prowl the room for individual models of the major buildings shown in the city model: the elaborately elegant forum; the floating wooden bridge that gave Arles a strategic advantage (over the widest, and therefore slowest, part of the river); the theater (with its magnificent stage wall); the arena (with its movable stadium cover to shelter spectators from sun or rain); and the hydraulic mill of Barbegal (with its 16 waterwheels powered by water cascading down a hillside).
You’ll also see displays of pottery, jewelry, metal, and glass artifacts, and well-crafted mosaic floors that illustrate how Roman Arles was a city of art and culture. The many statues are all original, except for the greatest—the Venus of Arles, which Louis XIV took a liking to and had moved to Versailles. It’s now in the Louvre—and, as locals say, “When it’s in Paris...bye-bye.”
The statue of Caesar Augustus stood in the center of Arles’ theater stage wall. Throughout the hall you’ll come across expertly carved pagan and early-Christian sarcophagi (from the second to fifth centuries A.D.). These would have lined the Via Aurelia outside the town wall. In the early days of the Church, Jesus was often portrayed beardless and as the good shepherd, with a lamb over his shoulder.
The museum’s newest and most exciting exhibit is the Gallo-Roman vessel and much of its cargo. This almost-100-foot-long Roman barge was pulled out of the Rhône in 2010, along with some 280 amphorae and 3,000 ceramic artifacts (you’ll pass a worthwhile video—just before entering the room—describing how the barge was removed from the river). It was typical of flat-bottomed barges used to shuttle goods between Arles and ports along the Mediterranean (vessels were manually towed upriver). The same hall shows a large model of the chariot racecourse. Part of the original racecourse was just outside the windows, and though long gone, it must have resembled Rome’s Circus Maximus in its day.
Ideally, visit these sights in the order listed below. I’ve included some walking directions to connect the dots (see the Arles map on here).
Named for the Roman forum that once stood here, Place du Forum was the political and religious center of Roman Arles. Still lively, this café-crammed square is a local watering hole and popular for a pastis (anise-based apéritif). The bistros on the square, though no place for a fine dinner, can put together a good-enough salad or plat du jour—and when you sprinkle on the ambience, that’s €12 well spent.
At the corner of Grand Hôtel Nord-Pinus (a favorite of Pablo Picasso), a plaque shows how the Romans built a foundation of galleries to make the main square level in order to compensate for Arles’ slope down to the river. The two columns are all that survive from the upper story of the entry to the forum. Steps leading to the entrance are buried—the Roman street level was about 20 feet below you (you can get a glimpse of it by peeking through the street-level openings under the Hôtel d’Arlatan, two blocks below Place du Forum on Rue du Sauvage; find information panels above the openings).
The statue on the square is of Frédéric Mistral (1830-1914). This popular poet, who wrote in the local dialect rather than in French, was a champion of Provençal culture. After receiving the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1904, Mistral used his prize money to preserve and display the folk identity of Provence. He founded the regional folk museum (the Arlaten Folk Museum, described later) at a time when France was rapidly centralizing. (The local mistral wind—literally, “master”—has nothing to do with his name.)
The bright-yellow café—called Café la Nuit—was the subject of one of Vincent van Gogh’s most famous works in Arles. Although his painting showed the café in a brilliant yellow from the glow of gas lamps, the facade was bare limestone, just like the other cafés on this square. The café’s current owners have painted it to match Van Gogh’s version...and to cash in on the Vincent-crazed hordes who pay too much to eat or drink here.
• With your back to Café la Nuit, walk left one block (past Grand Hôtel Nord Pinus) and turn left. Walk through Hôtel de Ville’s vaulted entry (or take the next right if it’s closed), and pop out onto the big...
This square used to be called “Place Royale”...until the French Revolution. The obelisk was the former centerpiece of Arles’ Roman Circus. The lions at its base are the symbol of the city, whose slogan is (roughly) “the gentle lion.” Find a seat and watch the peasants—pilgrims, locals, and street musicians. There’s nothing new about this scene.
• Find the exquisitely carved facade of...
Named after a third-century bishop of Arles, this church sports the finest Romanesque main entrance I’ve seen anywhere. The Romanesque-and-Gothic interior, with tapestries and relics, is worth a wander. The cloisters are skippable.
Cost and Hours: Church—free, daily April-Sept 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, Oct-March 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00; cloisters—€3.50, similar hours as church, but open all day (no lunch break).
Visiting the Church: Like a Roman triumphal arch, the church facade trumpets the promise of Judgment Day. The tympanum (the semicircular area above the door) is filled with Christian symbolism. Christ sits in majesty, surrounded by symbols of the four evangelists: Matthew (the winged man), Mark (the winged lion), Luke (the ox), and John (the eagle). The 12 apostles are lined up below Jesus. It’s Judgment Day...some are saved and others aren’t. Notice the condemned (on the right)—a chain gang doing a sad bunny-hop over the fires of hell. For them, the tune trumpeted by the three angels above Christ is not a happy one. Below the chain gang, St. Stephen is being stoned to death, with his soul leaving through his mouth and instantly being welcomed by angels. Ride the exquisite detail back to a simpler age. In an illiterate medieval world, long before the vivid images of our Technicolor time, this was a neon billboard over the town square.
Just inside the door on the right, a chart locates the interior highlights and helps explain the carvings you just saw on the tympanum.
Tour the church counterclockwise. The tall 12th-century Romanesque nave is decorated by a set of tapestries showing scenes from the life of Mary (17th century, from the French town of Aubusson). Amble around the Gothic apse. Two-thirds of the way around, find the relic chapel behind the ornate wrought iron gate, with its fine golden boxes that hold long-venerated bones of obscure saints. The next chapel houses the skull of St. Anthony of the Desert, with good English explanations. Several chapels down, look for the early-Christian sarcophagus from Roman Arles (dated about A.D. 300) under the black columns. The heads were lopped off during the French Revolution.
This church is a stop on the ancient pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain. For 800 years pilgrims on their way to Santiago have paused here...and they still do today. Notice the modern-day pilgrimages advertised on the far right near the church’s entry.
Leaving the church, turn left, then left again through a courtyard to enter the adjacent cloisters. The cloisters are worth a look only if you have a pass (big cleaning underway, enter at the far end of the courtyard). The many small columns were scavenged from the ancient Roman theater. Enjoy the sculpted capitals, the rounded 12th-century Romanesque arches, and the pointed 14th-century Gothic ones. The pretty vaulted hall exhibits 17th-century tapestries showing scenes from the First Crusade to the Holy Land. On the second floor, you’ll walk along an angled rooftop designed to catch rainwater—notice the slanted gutter that channeled the water into a cistern and the heavy roof slabs covering the tapestry hall below.
• Return to the square and walk into the Hôtel de Ville to find the entrance to...
This dark, drippy underworld of Roman arches was constructed to support the upper half of Forum Square. Two thousand years ago, most of this gallery of arches was at or above street level; modern Arles has buried about 20 feet of its history over the millennia. Pick up the minimalist English flier and read it before you descend into the dark.
Cost and Hours: €3.50, daily May-Sept 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-19:00, March-April and Oct 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00.
• Walk up Rue de la Calade to reach the...
This first-century B.C. Roman theater, which once seated 10,000, was an elegant, three-level structure with 27 arches radiating out to the street level. From the outside, it looked much like a halved version of Arles’ Roman Arena.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, daily May-Sept 9:00-19:00, March-April and Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-17:00. Budget travelers can peek over the fence from Rue du Cloître and see just about everything for free.
Visiting the Theater: Start with the video outside, which provides helpful background information and images that make it easier to put the scattered stones back in place (crouch in front to make out the small English subtitles). You’ll also find a large information panel nearby on the grass that adds more context. Walk into the theater and pull up a stone seat in a center aisle. To appreciate the theater’s original size, look left (about 9:00) to the upper-left side of the tower and find the protrusion that supported the highest seating level. The structure required 33 rows of seats covering 3 levels to accommodate demand. During the Middle Ages, the old theater became a convenient town quarry—St. Trophime Church was built from theater rubble. Precious little of the original theater survives—though it still is used for events, with seating for 3,000 spectators.
Two lonely Corinthian columns are all that remain of a 3-story stage wall that once featured more than 100 columns and statues painted in vibrant colors. Actors with main roles entered through the central arch, over which a grand statue of Caesar Augustus stood (on display at the Ancient History Museum). Bit players entered through side arches. The orchestra section is defined by a semicircular pattern in the stone in front of you. Stepping up onto the left side of the stage, look down to the slender channel that allowed the brilliant-red curtain to disappear below, like magic. The stage, which was built of wood, was about 160 feet across and 20 feet deep. The actors’ changing rooms are backstage, down the steps.
• A block uphill is the...
Nearly 2,000 years ago, gladiators fought wild animals here to the delight of 20,000 screaming fans. Today local daredevils still fight wild animals here—“bullgame” posters around the arena advertise upcoming spectacles (see here). A lengthy restoration process is now complete, giving the amphitheater an almost bleached-teeth whiteness.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, daily May-Sept 9:00-19:00, March-April and Oct 9:00-18:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-17:00, Rond-point des Arènes, tel. 08 91 70 03 70, arenes-arles.com.
Visiting the Arena: After passing the ticket kiosk, find the helpful English information display describing the arena’s history and renovation, then take a seat in the upper deck. In Roman times, games were free (sponsored by city bigwigs), and fans were seated by social class. Thirty-four rows of stone bleachers extended all the way to the top of those vacant arches that circle the arena.
There were no gates, just welcoming arches, numbered to allow entertainment-seekers to come and go freely. The purpose was to create a populace that was thoroughly Roman—enjoying the same activities and entertainment, all thinking as one (not unlike Americans’ nationwide obsession with the same reality-TV shows). The many passageways you’ll see (called vomitoires) allowed for rapid dispersal after the games—fights would break out among frenzied fans if they couldn’t leave quickly. During medieval times and until the early 1800s, the arches were bricked up and the stadium became a fortified town—with 200 humble homes crammed within its circular defenses. Parts of three of the medieval towns survive (the one above the ticket booth is open and rewards those who climb it with terrific views). To see two still-sealed arches—complete with cute medieval window frames—turn right as you leave, walk to the L’Andaluz Restaurant, and look back to the second floor.
This art gallery recently moved to a new location in Hôtel Léautaud de Donines, a 15th-century townhouse. The foundation offers a refreshing stop for modern-art lovers and Van Gogh fans. At least one original Van Gogh painting is displayed here at any given time. Contemporary artists, including Roy Lichtenstein and Robert Rauschenberg, pay homage to Vincent through thought-provoking interpretations of his works. And black-and-white photographs (both art and shots of places that Vincent painted) complement the paintings. You’ll also find a good variety of Van Gogh souvenirs, prints, and postcards in the gift shop.
Cost and Hours: Likely €8, April-June daily 10:00-18:00, July-Sept daily 10:00-19:00, Oct-March Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00, closed Mon; Hôtel Leautaud de Donines, 35 Rue du Docteur Fanton, tel. 04 90 49 94 04, fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org.
To escape the tourist beat in Arles, take a detour into Arles’ little-visited western fringe. Find Rue de la Roquette near the Trinquetaille Bridge and stroll several blocks into pleasing Place Paul Doumier, where you’ll find a lively assortment of cafés, bakeries, and inexpensive bistros with nary a tourist in sight (see map on here). Continue along Rue de la Roquette and turn right on charming Rue Croix Rouge to reach the river. Those walking to or from the Ancient History Museum can use this appealing stroll as a shortcut.
These partly intact Roman baths were built in the early fourth century when Emperor Constantine declared Arles an imperial residence. Roman cities such as Arles had several public baths like this, which were used as much for exercising, networking, and chatting with friends as for bathing. These baths were located near the Rhône River for easy water access. You can get a pretty good look at the baths through the fence (€3, daily 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00).
Housed in the former Grand Priory of the Knights of Malta, this modern-art collection is always changing. The permanent collection usually includes a series of works by homegrown Neoclassical artist Jacques Réattu, along with at least one Picasso painting and a roomful of his drawings (donated by the artist, some two-sided and all done in a flurry of creativity). The museum shuffles its large Picasso collection around regularly (they have more works than space to display them). Most of the three-floor museum houses (usually worthwhile) temporary exhibits of modern artists; check the website to see who’s playing.
Cost and Hours: €8, free first Sun of each month, July-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00, Oct-June Tue-Sun 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:30, closed Mon year-round, last entry 30 minutes before closing for lunch or at end of day, 10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, tel. 04 90 96 37 68, museereattu.arles.fr.
This museum, which explains the ins and outs of daily Provençal life, is closed for renovation through 2016. Ask at the TI or check the museum’s website for the latest (museonarlaten.fr, French only).
On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, Arles’ ring road erupts into an open-air festival of fish, flowers, produce...and anything Provençal. The main event is on Saturday, with vendors jamming the ring road from Boulevard Emile Combes to the east, along Boulevard des Lices near the TI (the heart of the market), and continuing down Boulevard Georges Clemenceau to the west. Wednesday’s market runs only along Boulevard Emile Combes, between Place Lamartine and bis Avenue Victor Hugo; the segment nearest Place Lamartine is all about food, and the upper half features clothing, tablecloths, purses, and so on. On the first Wednesday of the month, a flea market doubles the size of the usual Wednesday market along Boulevard des Lices near the main TI. Join in: Buy some flowers for your hotelier, try the olives, sample some wine, and swat a pickpocket. Both markets are open until 12:30.
Provençal “bullgames” are held in Arles and in neighboring towns. Those in Arles occupy the same seats that fans have used for nearly 2,000 years, and take in the city’s most memorable experience—the courses camarguaises in the ancient arena. The nonviolent “bullgames” are more sporting than bloody bullfights (though traditional Spanish-style bullfights still take place on occasion). The bulls of Arles (who, locals stress, “die of old age”) are promoted in posters even more boldly than their human foes. In the bullgame, a ribbon (cocarde) is laced between the bull’s horns. The razeteur, with a special hook, has 15 minutes to snare the ribbon. Local businessmen encourage a razeteur (dressed in white with a red cummerbund) by shouting out how much money they’ll pay for the cocarde. If the bull pulls a good stunt, the band plays the famous “Toreador” song from Carmen. The following day, newspapers report on the games, including how many Carmens the bull earned.
Three classes of bullgames—determined by the experience of the razeteurs—are advertised in posters: The course de protection is for rookies. The trophée de l’Avenir comes with more experience. And the trophée des As features top professionals. During Easter and the fall rice-harvest festival (Féria du Riz), the arena hosts traditional Spanish bullfights (look for corrida) with outfits, swords, spikes, and the whole gory shebang.
Don’t pass on a chance to see Toro Piscine, a silly spectacle for warm summer evenings where the bull ends up in a swimming pool (uh-huh...get more details at the TI or check online at ffcc.info—French only, click on Calendrier des Courses for schedules). Nearby villages stage courses camarguaises in small wooden bullrings nearly every weekend; TIs have the latest schedule.
Cost and Hours: Arles’ bullgame tickets usually run €5-15; bullfights are pricier (€34-85). Schedules vary (usually July-Aug on Wed and Fri)—ask at the TI or check online at arenes-arles.com.
Hotels are a great value here—many are air-conditioned, though few have elevators. The Calendal, Musée, and Régence hotels offer exceptional value.
$$$ Hôtel le Calendal*** is a seductive place located between the Roman Arena and Classical Theater. Enter an expertly run hotel with airy lounges and a lovely palm-shaded courtyard. Enjoy the elaborate €12 buffet breakfast, have lunch in the courtyard or at the inexpensive sandwich bar (daily 12:00-15:00), and take advantage of their four free laptops for guests. You’ll also find a Jacuzzi and a spa with a Turkish bath, hot pool, and massages at good rates. The comfortable rooms sport Provençal decor and come in all shapes and sizes (standard Db-€119, larger or balcony Db-€139, spacious Db-€169, Tb/Qb-€169, air-con, Wi-Fi, reserve ahead for parking-€8, just above arena at 5 Rue Porte de Laure, tel. 04 90 96 11 89, lecalendal.com, contact@lecalendal.com). Ask about their studio apartments. They also run the nearby budget La Maison du Pelerin, described later.
$$$ Hôtel d’Arlatan***, built on the site of a Roman basilica, offers faded elegance in a classy shell. It has comfy public spaces, a tranquil terrace, a designer pool, and a range of rooms, many with high, wood-beamed ceilings and stone walls (a newer wing has more modern rooms). In the lobby of this 15th-century building, a glass floor looks down into Roman ruins. Hallway carpets are worn, and some rooms could use a little TLC, but the place is still a fair value if Old World charm trumps updated amenities (standard Db-€85-137, bigger Db with terrace or Tb-€157, Db/Qb suites-€180, family rooms-€200-250, killer last-minute deals, excellent buffet breakfast/brunch-€15 served until 11:00, air-con, ice machines, elevator, Wi-Fi, parking garage-€14, closed Nov-April, 1 block below Place du Forum at 26 Rue du Sauvage—tough by car, tel. 04 90 93 56 66, hotel-arlatan.fr, hotel-arlatan@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel du Musée** is a quiet, affordable manor-home hideaway tucked deep in Arles (difficult to find by car). This delightful refuge comes with 28 air-conditioned and wood-floored rooms, a flowery two-tiered courtyard, and comfortable lounges. Lighthearted Claude and English-speaking Laurence, the gracious owners, are eager to help (Sb-€65, Db-€70-85, Tb-€90-100, Qb-€140, buffet breakfast-€8.50, no elevator, Wi-Fi, laptop available for guests, garage-€10, follow signs to Réattu Museum to 11 Rue du Grand Prieuré, tel. 04 90 93 88 88, hoteldumusee.com, contact@hoteldumusee.com).
$$ Hôtel de la Muette**, with reserved owners Brigitte and Alain, is another good choice. Located in a quiet corner of Arles, this low-key hotel is well-kept, with stone walls, brown tones, and a small terrace in front. You’ll pay a bit more for the upgraded rooms, but it’s money well-spent (most Db-€66, bigger Db-€75, Tb-€77, Qb-€92, buffet breakfast-€8, air-con, no elevator, guest computer and Wi-Fi, private garage-€10, 15 Rue des Suisses, tel. 04 90 96 15 39, hotel-muette.com, hotel.muette@wanadoo.fr).
$ Hôtel Régence**, a top budget deal, has a riverfront location, immaculate and comfortable Provençal rooms, safe parking, and easy access to the train station (Db-€55-70, Tb-€70-85, Qb-€80-100, choose river view or quieter courtyard rooms, most rooms have showers, good buffet breakfast-€6, air-con, no elevator but only two floors, guest computer and Wi-Fi, garage-€6; from Place Lamartine, turn right immediately after passing between towers to reach 5 Rue Marius Jouveau; tel. 04 90 96 39 85, hotel-regence.com, contact@hotel-regence.com). The gentle Nouvions speak some English.
$$ Hôtel Acacias**, just off Place Lamartine and inside the old city walls, is a modern hotel selling reliable comfort at fair prices. The pretty pastel rooms are on the small side, but the modern elevator makes this a find in Arles (standard Sb-€55, Db-€65-74, extra bed-€15, breakfast-€8, air-con, Wi-Fi, 2 Rue de la Cavalerie, tel. 04 90 96 37 88, hotel-acacias.com, contact@hotel-acacias.com).
$ Hôtel Voltaire* rents 12 small, spartan rooms with ceiling fans and nifty balconies overlooking a fun square. A block below the arena, it’s good for starving artists who aren’t particular about cleanliness. Smiling owner “Mr.” Ferran (fur-ran) loves the States, and hopes you’ll add to his postcard collection (D-€30, Ds-€35, Db-€40, 1 Place Voltaire, tel. 04 90 96 49 18, levoltaire13@aol.com). They also serve a good-value lunch and dinner in their recommended restaurant.
$ La Maison du Pelerin offers spotless dorm rooms with three to six beds per room. It’s a great value, just above the Roman Arena and Classical Theater, with a shared kitchen and homey living area. Book in advance by phone or email and get the door code. You can also check in next door at the recommended Hôtel le Calendal (they own the place). Sheets are included (€25/person, shared bath, must pay in advance, Wi-Fi, 26 Place Pomme, mobile 06 99 71 11 89, arles-pelerins.fr).
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
You can dine well in Arles on a modest budget—in fact, it’s hard to blow a lot on dinner here (most of my listings have menus for under €25). Before dinner, go local on Place du Forum and enjoy a pastis. This anise-based apéritif is served straight in a glass with ice, plus a carafe of water—dilute to taste. Sunday is a quiet night for restaurants, though most eateries on Place du Forum are open.
For picnics, a big, handy Monoprix supermarket/department store is on Place Lamartine (Mon-Thu 8:30-19:30, Fri-Sat 8:30-20:00, closed Sun).
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Great atmosphere and mediocre food at fair prices await on Place du Forum. By all accounts, the garish yellow Café la Nuit is worth avoiding. Most other cafés on the square deliver acceptable quality and terrific ambience. For better cuisine, wander away from the square.
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
A half-block below the Forum, on Rue du Dr. Fanton, lies a terrific lineup of restaurants. Come here to peruse your options side by side. You can’t go wrong—all offer good value and have appealing indoor and outdoor seating.
Le 16 is a warm, affordable place to enjoy a fresh salad (€10), or a fine two- or three-course dinner (€20-€25). The choices are limited, so check the selection before sitting down. The goat cheese croustillant salad and taureau (bull’s meat) in a tasty sauce make a fine combination (closed Sat-Sun, 16 Rue du Dr. Fanton, tel. 04 90 93 77 36, le16restaurant.com).
Au Brin de Thym, a few doors down, offers a reliable blend of traditional French and Provençal cuisine at very fair prices. Arrive early for an outdoor table or call ahead, and let hardworking and formal Monsieur and Madame Colombaud and their daughter take care of you. Monsieur does le cooking while les filles do le serving (€14 lunch menu, excellent à la carte choices: €9 starters, €16 plats; closed Tue, 22 Rue du Dr. Fanton, tel. 04 90 49 95 96, aubrindethym.com).
Le Plaza, next to Au Brin, is run by a young couple (Stéphane cooks while Graziela serves) and features tasty Provençal cuisine in a fine setting—inside or out—at good prices (€22 menu, closed Wed, 28 Rue du Dr. Fanton, tel. 04 90 96 33 15).
Le Galoubet is a popular local spot, blending a cozy interior, traditional French cuisine, and service with a smile, thanks to owner Frank. It’s the most expensive of the places I list on this street and the least flexible, serving a €29 menu only. If it’s cold, a roaring fire keeps you toasty (closed Sun-Mon, great fries and desserts, 18 Rue du Dr. Fanton, tel. 04 90 93 18 11).
Bistrot à Vins suits wine-lovers who enjoy pairing food and drink, and those in search of a good glass of vin. Sit at a convivial counter or at one of five tables while listening to light jazz (book ahead for a table). Affable Ariane speaks enough English and offers a limited selection of simple, tasty dishes, though she talks of retiring (you may meet new owners and a new menu). Her savory tartes and fresh green salad make a great meal (€10-16), and the wines—many available by the glass—are well priced (indoor dining only from 18:30 to 22:00, closed Mon-Tue, 2 Rue du Dr. Fanton, tel. 04 90 52 00 65).
And for Dessert: Soleileis has Arles’ best ice cream, with all-natural ingredients and unusual flavors such as fadoli—olive oil mixed with nougatine. There’s also a shelf of English books for exchange (daily 14:00-18:30, across from recommended Le 16 restaurant at 9 Rue du Dr. Fanton).
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
At La Cuisine de Comptoir, welcoming owners Alexandre and Vincent offer light tartine dinners—a delicious cross between pizza and bruschetta, served with soup or salad for just €10 (a swinging deal—the brandada is tasty and filling). Watch le chef at work as you sip your €2 glass of rosé in fine glassware and enjoy the lively ambience of this cool little bistro (closed Sun, mostly indoor dining, just off Place du Forum’s lower end at 10 Rue de la Liberté, tel. 04 90 96 86 28).
La Pizza des Thermes, an inviting eatery a few blocks north of Place du Forum, serves good pizza and pasta for €10-13 and has comfortable indoor and outdoor seating (daily, 6 Rue du Sauvage, tel. 04 90 49 60 64).
Café de la Major is the place to go to recharge with some serious coffee or tea (closed Sun, 7 bis Rue Réattu, tel. 04 90 96 14 15).
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
For about the same price as on Place du Forum, you can enjoy regional cuisine with a point-blank view of the arena. Because they change regularly, the handful of (mostly) outdoor eateries that overlook the arena are pretty indistinguishable.
Le Grillon, with the best view above the arena, offers friendly service (say bonjour to smiling Nordine) and good-enough salads (the camarguaise is a riot of color), pizza and tasty tartines for €10 (including small salad), and plats du jour for €10-14 (closed all day Wed and Sun night, at the top of the arena on Rond-point des Arènes, tel. 04 90 96 70 97).
Le Criquet, a sweet little place two blocks above the arena, serves Provençal classics with joy at good prices. If you’re really hungry, try the €25 bourride—a creamy fish soup thickened with aioli and garlic and stuffed with mussels, clams, calamari, and more (good €19-26 three-course menus, indoor and outdoor dining, 21 Rue Porte de Laure, tel. 04 90 96 80 51).
For details on the next two places, see their listings under “Sleeping in Arles,” earlier. Hôtel le Calendal serves lunch in its lovely courtyard (€12-18, daily 12:00-15:00) or delicious little sandwiches for €2.50 each at its small café. Hôtel Voltaire, well-situated on a pleasing square, serves simple three-course lunches and dinners at honest prices to a loyal clientele (€13 menus; hearty plats and filling salads for €10—try the salade fermière, salade Latine, or the filling assiette Provençale; closed Sun evening).
(See “Arles Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
One of France’s most recognized chefs, Jean-Luc Rabanel, has created a sensation with two very different options 50 yards from Place de la République (at 7 Rue des Carmes). They sit side by side, both offering indoor and terrace seating.
L’Atelier is so intriguing that people travel great distances just for the experience. Diners fork over €110 (at lunch, you’ll spoon out €60) and trust the chef to create a memorable meal...which he does—and Monsieur Michelin agrees, having just awarded him a second star. There is no menu, just an onslaught of delicious taste sensations served in artsy dishes. Don’t plan on a quick dinner, and don’t come for a traditional setting; rooms are très contemporary. Several outdoor tables are also available. You’ll probably see or hear the famous chef. Hint: He has long salt-and-pepper hair and a deep voice (closed Mon-Tue, best to book ahead, friendly servers will hold your hand through this palate-widening experience, tel. 04 90 91 07 69, rabanel.com).
A Côté saddles up next door, offering a smart wine bar/bistro ambience and top-quality cuisine for far less. Here you can sample the famous chef’s talents for as little as €18 (daily plat) or as much as €38 (three-course menu, smallish servings, reasonably priced wines, open daily, tel. 04 90 47 61 13, bistro-acote.com).
Some trains in and out of Arles require a reservation. These include connections with Nice to the east and Bordeaux to the west (including intermediary stops). Ask at the station.
From Arles by Train to: Paris (11/day, 2 direct TGVs—4 hours, 9 with transfer in Avignon—5 hours), Avignon Centre-Ville (roughly hourly, 20 minutes, less frequent in the afternoon), Nîmes (9/day, 30 minutes), Marseille (11/day, 1.5 hours), Nice (11/day, 3.75-4.5 hours, most require transfer in Marseille), Barcelona (2/day, 6 hours, transfer in Montpellier), Italy (3/day, transfer in Marseille and Nice; from Arles, it’s 4.5-5 hours to Ventimiglia on the border, 8 hours to Milan, 9.5 hours to Cinque Terre, 11-12 hours to Florence, and 13 hours to Venice or Rome).
The bus station is at 16-24 Boulevard Georges Clemenceau (2 blocks below main TI, next to Café le Wilson). The downtown station is labeled on schedules as Rue Georges Clemenceau (see timetables at cg13.fr/cartreize/lignes.php). Bus info: Tel. 08 10 00 13 26.
From Arles Train Station to Avignon TGV Station: The direct SNCF bus is easier than the train and leaves only from Arles’ train station (8/day, 1 hour, €7, included with rail pass). You can also take the train from Arles to Avignon’s Centre-Ville Station, then catch the TER local train to the TGV Station (2-block walk, see here).
From Arles by Bus to: Nîmes (bus #C30, 6/day, 1 hour, €1.50), Fontvieille (6/day, 10 minutes).
Famous for its nursery rhyme, medieval bridge, and brooding Palace of the Popes, contemporary Avignon (ah-veen-yohn) bustles and prospers behind its mighty walls. During the 94 years (1309-1403) that Avignon starred as the Franco Vaticano (the temporary residence of the popes) and hosted two antipopes, it grew from a quiet village into a thriving city. With its large student population and fashionable shops, today’s Avignon is an intriguing blend of medieval history, youthful energy, and urban sophistication. Street performers entertain the international throngs who fill Avignon’s ubiquitous cafés and trendy boutiques. If you’re here in July, be prepared for big crowds and higher prices, thanks to the rollicking theater festival. (Reserve your hotel far in advance.) Clean, lively, and popular with tourists, Avignon is more impressive for its outdoor ambience than for its museums and monuments.
Cours Jean Jaurès, which turns into Rue de la République, runs straight from the Centre-Ville train station to Place de l’Horloge and the Palace of the Popes, splitting Avignon in two. The larger eastern half is where the action is. Climb to the Jardin du Rochers des Doms for the town’s best view, consider touring the pope’s immense palace, lose yourself in Avignon’s back streets (you can follow my “Discovering Avignon’s Back Streets” self-guided walk), and find a shady square to call home. Avignon’s shopping district fills the traffic-free streets near where Rue de la République meets Place de l’Horloge. As you wander, look for signs in Occitan—the language of the Occitania region; you might see the name of the city written as “Avinhon” or “Avignoun.”
The main TI is between the Centre-Ville train station and the old town, at 41 Cours Jean Jaurès (April-Oct Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00—until 19:00 in July, Sun 9:45-17:00; Nov-March Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-12:00; tel. 04 32 74 32 74, avignon-tourisme.com). From April through mid-October, a branch TI office is open inside Les Halles market (Fri-Sun 10:00-13:00, closed Mon-Thu). At any TI, get the helpful map. If you’re staying awhile, pick up the free Guide Touristique (info on bike rentals, hotels, apartment rentals, events, and museums).
Sightseeing Pass: Everyone should pick up the free Avignon Passion Pass (valid 15 days, for up to 5 family members). Get the pass stamped when you pay full price at your first sight, and then receive reductions at the others (for example, €2 less at the Palace of the Popes and €3 less at the Petit Palais). The discounts add up—always show your Passion Pass when buying a ticket. The pass comes with the Avignon “Passion” map and guide, which includes several good (but tricky-to-follow) walking tours.
Avignon has two train stations: TGV (linked to downtown by frequent TER local trains) and Centre-Ville. While most TGV trains serve only the TGV Station, some also stop at Centre-Ville—verify your station in advance.
TGV Station (Gare TGV): This shiny new station on the outskirts of town has no baggage storage (bags can be stored only at the Centre-Ville train station). Car rental and taxis are all out the north exit (sortie nord).
To get to the city center, take the TER local train from the TGV Station to the Avignon Centre-Ville Station (€1.50, 2-3/hour, 5 minutes). From there, cross the busy street in front of the Centre-Ville Station and walk through the city walls onto Cours Jean Jaurès. The TI is three blocks down, at #41. The TER train is relatively new and was supposed to replace the existing shuttle bus service between the TGV Station and the city center. But, should there still be bus service, you’ll likely find it by walking out the TGV Station’s north entrance and down to the left to a bus shelter—look for bus #10 (€1.30, 3/hour, 20 minutes).
A taxi ride between the TGV Station and downtown Avignon costs about €20 (more on Sunday and from 19:00 to 6:00).
Buses to Arles’ Centre-Ville train station stop at the next shelter down from the Avignon buses (8/day, 1 hour, €7, included with rail pass, schedule posted on the shelter and available at info booths inside the TGV Station).
Rental car offices are straight out the north exit and down the steps. If you’re driving directly to Arles, leave the station, following signs to Avignon Sud, then La Rocade. You’ll soon see exits to Arles.
Centre-Ville Station (Gare Avignon Centre-Ville): All non-TGV trains (and a few TGV trains) serve the central station. You can usually stash your bags here (unpredictable hours)—exit the station to the left and look for the consignes sign (confirm closing time when you leave your bag). To get to the town center, cross the busy street in front of the station and enter the city walls. You’ll be on Cours Jean Jaurès; the TI is three blocks down (at #41).
The grimy bus station (gare routière) is 100 yards to the right as you leave the Centre-Ville train station, beyond and below Hôtel Ibis (info desk open Mon-Sat 8:00-19:30, closed Sun, tel. 04 90 82 07 35, staff speaks a little English).
Drivers entering Avignon follow Centre-Ville and Gare SNCF (train station) signs. You’ll find central pay lots (about €10/half-day, €15/day) in the garage next to the Centre-Ville train station, at the Parking Jean Jaurès under the ramparts across from the station. Two less pricey options are Parking Les Halles in the center of town, on Place Pie (“pee”), and Parking Palais des Papes. Hotels have advice for smart overnight parking, and some offer small discounts in the municipal parking garages. No matter where you park, leave nothing in your car.
Free or Cheap Parking: Two free lots have complimentary shuttle buses to the center except on Sunday (follow P Gratuit signs): One is just across Daladier Bridge (Pont Daladier) on Ile de la Barthelasse, with shuttles to Place Crillon; the other is along the river east of the Palace of the Popes, with shuttles to Place Carnot (both lots are within a long walk of the city center if need be). Parking on the street is free in the bleu zones 12:00-14:00 and 19:00-9:00. It’s €2 for about three hours 9:00-12:00 and 14:00-19:00 (hint: If you put €2 in the meter after 19:00, it’s good until 14:00 the next day, or if you put €2 in at 9:00, you’re good until 14:00).
Book Ahead for July: During the July theater festival, rooms are sparse—reserve very early, or stay in Arles.
Local Help: David at Imagine Tours, a nonprofit group whose goal is to promote this region, can help with hotel emergencies or tickets to special events (mobile 06 89 22 19 87, imagine-tours.net, imagine.tours@gmail.com). If you get no answer, leave a message.
Internet Access: The TI has a current list of Internet cafés, or you can ask your hotelier. Many bigger cafés provide free Wi-Fi to anyone who buys a drink.
English Bookstore: Try Shakespeare Bookshop (Tue-Sat 9:30-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, closed Sun-Mon, 155 Rue Carreterie, in Avignon’s northeast corner, tel. 04 90 27 38 50).
Baggage Storage: You can usually leave your bags at Centre-Ville train station (see “Arrival in Avignon,” earlier).
Laundry: At La Blanchisseuse, you can drop off your laundry and pick it up the same day for about €12 a load (daily 7:00-21:00, a few blocks west of main TI at 24 Rue Lanterne, tel. 04 90 85 58 80). The launderette at 66 Place des Corps-Saints, where Rue Agricol Perdiguier ends, has English instructions and is handy to most hotels (daily 7:00-20:00).
Grocery Store: Carrefour City is central and has long hours (Mon-Sat 7:00-22:00, Sun 9:00-12:00, next to McDonald’s, 2 blocks from TI, toward Place de l’Horloge on Rue de la République).
Bike Rental: You can rent bikes and scooters near the train station at Provence Bike (7 Avenue St. Ruf, tel. 04 90 27 92 61, provence-bike.com).
Car Rental: The TGV train station has car-rental agencies (open long hours daily).
Shuttle Boat: A free shuttle boat, the Navette Fluviale, plies back and forth across the river (as it did in the days when the town had no functioning bridge) from near St. Bénezet Bridge (3/hour, daily July-Aug 11:00-21:00, Sept-June roughly 10:00-12:30 & 14:00-18:00). It drops you on the peaceful Ile de la Barthelasse, with its recommended riverside restaurant, grassy walks, and bike rides with terrific city views. If you stay on the island for dinner, check the schedule for the last return boat—or be prepared for a taxi ride or a pleasant 25-minute walk back to town.
Commanding City Views: For great views of Avignon and the river, walk or drive across Daladier Bridge, or ferry across the Rhône on the Navette Fluviale (described above). I’d take the boat across the river, walk the view path to Daladier Bridge, and then cross back over the bridge (45-minute walk over mostly level ground). You can enjoy other impressive vistas from the top of the Jardin du Rochers des Doms, from the tower in the Palace of the Popes, from the end of the famous, broken St. Bénezet Bridge, and from the entrance to Fort St. André, across the river in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon.
On mid-season Mondays and Saturdays, the TI offers informative English walking tours of Avignon, which include a visit to the Palace of the Popes (€19, discounted with Avignon Passion Pass, April-June and Aug-Oct Mon at 15:00, no tours in July or Nov-March). Behind-the-scenes tours in English of the Palace of the Popes are also possible; ask at the TI.
The little train leaves regularly from in front of the Palace of the Popes and offers a decent overview of the city, including the Jardin du Rochers des Doms and St. Bénezet Bridge (€7, 2/hour, 40 minutes, mid-March-mid-Oct daily 10:00-18:00, until 19:00 July-Aug, English commentary).
Several minivan tour companies based in Avignon offer transportation to destinations around Provence, including Pont du Gard (about €65-80/person for all-day tours). See “Tours of Provence” on here (note that Imagine Tours and guides François Marcou and Daniela Wedel are all based in Avignon).
(See “Avignon” map, here.)
For a fine overview of the city, combine these two walks. “Welcome to Avignon” covers the major sights, while “Discovering Avignon’s Back Streets” leads you along the lanes less taken, delving beyond the surface of this historic city.
(See “Avignon” map, here.)
Before starting this walk—which connects the city’s top sights—be sure to pick up the Avignon Passion Pass at the TI, then show it when entering each attraction to receive discounted admission (explained earlier, under “Tourist Information”).
• Start your tour where the Romans did, on Place de l’Horloge, in front of City Hall (Hôtel de Ville).
This café square was the town forum during Roman times and the market square through the Middle Ages. (Restaurants here offer good people-watching, but they also have less ambience and low-quality meals—you’ll find better squares elsewhere to hang your beret in.) Named for a medieval clock tower mostly hidden behind City Hall (find plaque in English), this square’s present popularity arrived with the trains in 1854. Walk a few steps to the center of the square, and look down the main drag, Rue de la République. When the trains came to Avignon, proud city fathers wanted a direct, impressive way to link the new station to the heart of the city (just like in Paris)—so they plowed over homes to create Rue de la République and widened Place de l’Horloge. This main drag’s Parisian feel is intentional—it was built not in the Provençal manner, but in the Haussmann style that is so dominant in Paris (characterized by broad, straight boulevards lined with stately buildings).
• Walk slightly uphill past the carousel (public WCs behind). Veer right at the Hôtel des Palais des Papes and continue into...
Pull up a concrete stump just past the café. Nicknamed bites (slang for the male anatomy), these stumps effectively keep cars from double-parking in areas designed for people. Many of the metal ones slide up and down by remote control to let privileged cars come and go.
Now take in the scene. This grand square is lined with the Palace of the Popes, the Petit Palais, and the cathedral. In the 1300s the entire headquarters of the Catholic Church was moved to Avignon. The Church bought Avignon and gave it a complete makeover. Along with clearing out vast spaces like this square and building this three-acre palace, the Church erected more than three miles of protective wall (with 39 towers), “appropriate” housing for cardinals (read: mansions), and residences for its entire bureaucracy. The city was Europe’s largest construction zone. Avignon’s population grew from 6,000 to 25,000 in short order. (Today, 13,000 people live within the walls.) The limits of pre-papal Avignon are outlined on your city map: Rues Joseph Vernet, Henri Fabre, des Lices, and Philonarde all follow the route of the city’s earlier defensive wall.
The Petit Palais (Little Palace) seals the uphill end of the square and was built for a cardinal; today it houses medieval paintings (museum described later). The church just to the left of the Palace of the Popes is Avignon’s cathedral. It predates the Church’s purchase of Avignon by 200 years. Its small size reflects Avignon’s modest, pre-papal population. The gilded Mary was added in 1854, when the Vatican established the doctrine of her Immaculate Conception. Mary is taller than the Palace of the Popes by design: The Vatican never accepted what it called the “Babylonian Captivity” and had a bad attitude about Avignon long after the pope was definitively back in Rome. There hasn’t been a French pope since the Holy See returned to Rome—over 600 years ago. That’s what I call a grudge.
Right behind you, across the square from the palace’s main entry stands a cardinal’s residence, built in 1619 (now the Conservatoire National de Musique). Its fancy Baroque facade was a visual counterpoint to the stripped-down Huguenot aesthetic of the age. During this time, Provence was a hotbed of Protestantism—but, buried within this region, Avignon was a Catholic stronghold.
• You can visit the massive Palace of the Popes (described on here) now, but it works better to visit that palace at the end of this walk, then continue directly to the “Back Streets” walk, described later.
Now is a good time to take in the...
This former cardinal’s palace now displays the Church’s collection of mostly medieval Italian painting (including one delightful Botticelli) and sculpture. All 350 paintings deal with Christian themes. A visit here before going to the Palace of the Popes helps furnish and populate that otherwise barren building, and a quick peek into its courtyard (even if you don’t tour the museum) shows the importance of cardinal housing. The museum’s garden café provides a shady, peaceful refuge.
Cost and Hours: €6, €3 English brochure, some English explanations posted; Wed-Mon 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Tue; at north end of Palace Square, tel. 04 90 86 44 58.
• From Palace Square we’ll head up to the rocky hilltop where Avignon was first settled, then drop down to the river. With this short loop, you can enjoy a small park, hike to a grand river view, and visit Avignon’s beloved broken bridge.
Start by climbing to the church level (you can fill your bottle with cold water here), then take the central switchback ramps up to...
Though the park itself is a delight—with a sweet little café (good prices for food and drinks) and public WCs—don’t miss the climax: a panoramic view of the Rhône River Valley and the broken bridge. For the best views (and the favorite make-out spot for local teenagers later in the evening), find the small terrace behind the odd zodiac display across the grass from the pond-side park café. If the green fence is ruining it for you, stand on the short wall behind you, or detour a few minutes through the park (to the right, with the river on your left) to find a bigger terrace.
On a clear day, the tallest peak you see, with its white limestone cap, is Mont Ventoux (“Windy Mountain”). Below and just to the right, you’ll spot free passenger ferries shuttling across the river (great views from path on other side of the river), and—tucked amidst the trees on the far side of the river—a fun, recommended restaurant, Le Bercail. The island in the river is the Ile de la Barthelasse, a lush nature preserve where Avignon can breathe. To the left in the distance, the TGV rail bridge floats gracefully above the valley.
Fort St. André (across the river on the hill; see the info plaque to the left) was built by the French in 1360, shortly after the pope moved to Avignon, to counter the papal incursion into this part of Europe. The castle was across the border, in the kingdom of France. Avignon’s famous bridge was a key border crossing, with towers on either end—one was French, and the other was the pope’s. The French one, across the river, is the Tower of Philip the Fair (described later, under “More Sights in Avignon”).
Cost and Hours: Free, park gates open daily April-Sept 7:30-20:00, Oct-March 7:30-18:00.
• Take the walkway down to the left and find the stairs (closed at dusk) leading down to the tower. You’ll catch glimpses of the...
The only bit of the rampart you can walk on is accessed from St. Bénezet Bridge (pay to enter—see next). Just after the papacy took control of Avignon, the walls were extended to take in the convents and monasteries that had been outside the city. What you see today was restored in the 19th century.
• When you come out of the tower on street level, exit out of the walls, then turn left along the wall to the old bridge. Pass under the bridge to find its entrance shortly after.
This bridge, whose construction and location were inspired by a shepherd’s religious vision, is the “Pont d’Avignon” of nursery-rhyme fame. The ditty (which you’ve probably been humming all day) dates back to the 15th century: Sur le Pont d’Avignon, on y danse, on y danse, sur le Pont d’Avignon, on y danse tous en rond (“On the bridge of Avignon, we will dance, we will dance, on the bridge of Avignon, we will dance all in a circle”).
But the bridge was a big deal even outside of its kiddie-tune fame. Built between 1171 and 1185, it was the only bridge crossing the mighty Rhône in the Middle Ages—important to pilgrims, merchants, and armies. It was damaged several times by floods and subsequently rebuilt. In 1668 most of it was knocked out for the last time by a disastrous, icy flood. Lacking a government stimulus package, the townsfolk decided not to rebuild this time, and for more than a century, Avignon had no bridge across the Rhône. While only four arches survive today, the original bridge was huge: Imagine a 22-arch, 3,000-foot-long bridge extending from Vatican territory across the island to the lonely Tower of Philip the Fair, which marked the beginning of France (see displays of the bridge’s original length).
Cost and Hours: €4.50, includes audioguide, €13 combo-ticket includes Palace of the Popes, same hours as Palace of the Popes (described next), tel. 04 90 27 51 16.
Visiting the Bridge: The ticket booth is housed in what was a medieval hospital for the poor (funded by bridge tolls). Admission includes a small room dedicated to the song of Avignon’s bridge and your only chance to walk a bit of the ramparts (enter both from the tower). A Romanesque chapel on the bridge is dedicated to St. Bénezet. Though there’s not much to see on the bridge, the audioguide included with your ticket tells a good enough story. It’s also fun to be in the breezy middle of the river with a sweeping city view.
• To get to the Palace of the Popes from here, leave via the riverfront exit, turn left, then turn left again back into the walls. Walk to the end of the short street, then turn right following signs to Palais des Papes. Next, look for brown signs leading left under the passageway, then stay the course up the narrow steps to Palace Square.
In 1309 a French pope was elected (Pope Clément V). At the urging of the French king, His Holiness decided that dangerous Italy was no place for a pope, so he moved the whole operation to Avignon for a secure rule under a supportive king. The Catholic Church literally bought Avignon (then a two-bit town), and popes resided here until 1403. Meanwhile, Italians demanded a Roman pope, so from 1378 on, there were twin popes—one in Rome and one in Avignon—causing a schism in the Catholic Church that wasn’t fully resolved until 1417.
Cost and Hours: €10.50 (more for special exhibits), essential audioguide-€2, €13 combo-ticket includes St. Bénezet Bridge, daily March-June and Sept-Oct 9:00-19:00, July-Aug 9:00-20:00, Nov-Feb 9:30-17:45, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 04 90 27 50 74, palais-des-papes.com.
Visiting the Palace: Spring for the slick multimedia audioguide, which leads you along a one-way route and does a decent job of overcoming the palace’s complete lack of furnishings. It teaches the basic history while allowing you to tour at your own pace. A small museum inside the palace also adds context. Still, touring the palace is pretty anticlimactic, given its historic importance.
As you wander, ponder that this palace—the largest surviving Gothic palace in Europe—was built to accommodate 500 people as the administrative center of the Holy See and home of the pope. This was the most fortified palace of the age (remember, the pope left Rome to be more secure). Nine popes ruled from here, making this the center of Christianity for nearly 100 years. You’ll walk through the pope’s personal quarters (frescoed with happy hunting scenes), see many models of how the various popes added to the building, and learn about its state-of-the-art plumbing. The rooms are huge. The “pope’s chapel” is twice the size of the adjacent Avignon cathedral.
The last pope (or, technically, antipope, since by then Rome also had its own rival pope) checked out in 1403 (escaping a siege), but the Church owned Avignon until the French Revolution in 1789. During this interim period, the pope’s “legate” (official representative, normally a nephew) ruled Avignon from this palace. Avignon residents, many of whom had come from Rome, spoke Italian for a century after the pope left, making it a linguistic ghetto within France. In the Napoleonic age, the palace was a barracks, housing 1,800 soldiers. You can see cuts in the wall where high ceilings gave way to floor beams. Climb the tower (Tour de la Gâche) for grand views and a rooftop café with surprisingly good food at very fair prices.
Wine Room: A room at the end of the tour (called la boutellerie) is dedicated to the region’s wines, of which they claim the pope was a fan. Sniff “Le Nez du Vin”—a black box with 54 tiny bottles designed to develop your “nose.” (Blind-test your travel partner.) The nearby village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is where the pope summered in the 1320s. Its famous wine is a direct descendant of his wine. You’re welcome to taste here (about €6 for three-five fine wines and souvenir tasting cup). If it’s only wine you want, go directly to the back entrance of the palace and enter the boutique.
• You’ll exit at the rear of the palace, where my “Back Streets” walking tour begins (described next). Or, to return to Palace Square, make two rights after exiting the palace.
(See “Avignon” map, here.)
Use the map in this chapter or the TI map to navigate this easy, level, 30-minute walk. This self-guided tour begins in the small square (Place de la Mirande) behind the Palace of the Popes. If you’ve toured the palace, this is where you exit. Otherwise, from the front of the palace, follow the narrow, cobbled Rue de la Peyrollerie—carved out of the rock—around the palace on the right side as you face it.
• Our walk begins at the...
Hôtel La Mirande: Located on the square, Avignon’s finest hotel welcomes visitors. Find the atrium lounge and consider a coffee break amid the understated luxury (€12 afternoon tea served daily 15:00-18:00, includes a generous selection of pastries). Inspect the royal lounge and dining room; cooking demos are offered in the basement below. Rooms start at about €425 in high season.
• Turn left out of the hotel and left again on Rue de la Peyrollerie (“Coppersmiths Street”), then take your first right on Rue des Ciseaux d’Or. On the small square ahead you’ll find the...
Church of St. Pierre: The original chestnut doors were carved in 1551, when tales of New World discoveries raced across Europe. (Notice the Indian headdress, top center of left-side door.) The fine Annunciation (eye level on right-side door) shows Gabriel giving Mary the exciting news in impressive Renaissance 3-D. Now take 10 steps back from the door and look way up. The tiny statue breaking the skyline of the church is the pagan god Bacchus, with oodles of grapes. What’s he doing sitting atop a Christian church? No one knows. The church’s interior holds a beautiful Baroque altar. (For recommended restaurants near the Church of St. Pierre, see “Eating in Avignon,” later.)
• Facing the church door, follow the alley to the left, which was covered and turned into a tunnel during the town’s population boom. It leads into...
Place des Châtaignes: The cloister of St. Pierre is named for the chestnut (châtaigne) trees that once stood here (now replaced by plane trees). The practical atheists of the French Revolution destroyed the cloister, leaving only faint traces of the arches along the church side of the square.
• Continue around the church and cross the busy street to the Banque Chaix. Across little Rue des Fourbisseurs find the classy...
15th-Century Building: With its original beamed eaves showing, this is a rare vestige from the Middle Ages. Notice how this building widens the higher it gets. A medieval loophole based taxes on ground-floor square footage—everything above was tax-free. Walking down Rue des Fourbisseurs (“Street of the Animal Furriers”), notice how the top floors almost meet. Fire was a constant danger in the Middle Ages, as flames leapt easily from one home to the next. In fact, the lookout guard’s primary responsibility was watching for fires, not the enemy. Virtually all of Avignon’s medieval homes have been replaced by safer structures.
• Walk down Rue des Fourbisseurs and turn left onto the traffic-free Rue du Vieux Sextier (“Street of the Old Balance,” for weighing items); another left under the first arch leads 10 yards to Avignon’s...
Synagogue: Jews first arrived in Avignon with the Diaspora (exile) of the first century. Avignon’s Jews were nicknamed “the Pope’s Jews” because of the protection that the Vatican offered to Jews expelled from France. Although the original synagogue dates from the 1220s, in the mid-19th century it was completely rebuilt in a Neoclassical Greek-temple style by a non-Jewish architect. This is the only synagogue under a rotunda that you’ll see anywhere. It’s an intimate, classy place dressed with white colonnades and walnut furnishings. To enter the synagogue, you’ll have to email in advance of your visit (free, closed Sat-Sun, 2 Place Jerusalem, tel. 04 90 55 21 24, rabinacia@hotmail.fr).
• Retrace your steps to Rue du Vieux Sextier and turn left, then continue to the big square and find the big, boxy...
Market (Les Halles): In 1970, the town’s open-air market was replaced by this modern one. The market’s jungle-like green wall reflects the changes of seasons and helps mitigate its otherwise stark exterior (open Tue-Sun until 13:00, closed Mon, small TI inside open April-mid-Oct Fri-Sun). Step inside for a sensual experience of organic breads, olives, and festival-of-mold cheeses. The Rue des Temptations cuts down the center. Cafés and cheese shops are on the right—as far as possible from the stinky fish stalls on the left. Follow your nose away from the fish and have a coffee with the locals.
• Exit out the back door of Les Halles, turn left on Rue de la Bonneterie (“Street of Hosiery”), and track the street for five minutes to the plane trees, where it becomes...
Rue des Teinturiers: This “Street of the Dyers” is a tie-dyed, tree- and stream-lined lane, home to earthy cafés and galleries. This was the cloth industry’s dyeing and textile center in the 1800s. The stream is a branch of the Sorgue River. Those stylish Provençal fabrics and patterns you see for sale everywhere were first made here, after a pattern imported from India.
About three small bridges down, you’ll pass the Grey Penitents chapel on the right. The upper facade shows the GPs, who dressed up in robes and pointy hoods to do their anonymous good deeds back in the 13th century (long before the KKK dressed this way). As you stroll on, you’ll see the work of amateur sculptors, who have carved whimsical car barriers out of limestone.
Fun restaurants on this atmospheric street are recommended later, under “Eating in Avignon.”
• Farther down Rue des Teinturiers, you’ll come to the...
Waterwheel: Standing here, imagine the Sorgue River—which hits the mighty Rhône in Avignon—being broken into several canals in order to turn 23 such wheels. In about 1800, waterwheels powered the town’s industries. The little cogwheel above the big one could be shoved into place, kicking another machine into gear behind the wall.
• To return to the real world, double back on Rue des Teinturiers and turn left on Rue des Lices, which traces the first medieval wall. (Lice is the no-man’s-land along a protective wall.) After a long block you’ll pass a striking four-story building that was a home for the poor in the 1600s, an army barracks in the 1800s, a fine-arts school in the 1900s, and is a deluxe condominium today (much of this neighborhood is going high-class residential). Eventually you’ll return to Rue de la République, Avignon’s main drag.
Most of Avignon’s top sights are covered earlier by my self-guided walks. With more time, consider these options.
Visiting this museum is like being invited into the elegant home of a rich and passionate art collector. It mixes a small but enjoyable collection of art from Post-Impressionists to Cubists (including Paul Cézanne, Vincent van Gogh, Honoré Daumier, Edgar Degas, and Pablo Picasso), with re-created art studios and furnishings from many periods. It’s a quiet place with a few superb paintings.
Cost and Hours: €6, Tue-Sun 13:00-18:00, closed Mon, 5 Rue Laboureur, tel. 04 90 82 29 03, angladon.com.
This fine-arts museum impressively displays its collection, highlighting French Baroque works. This museum goes ignored by most, but you’ll find a few diamonds in the rough upstairs: Géricault, Soutine, and one painting each from Manet, Sisley, Bonnard, Dufy, and Vlamnick.
Cost and Hours: €6, includes audioguide, Wed-Mon 10:00-13:00 & 14:00-18:00, closed Tue, in the quieter western half of town at 65 Rue Joseph Vernet, antiquities collection a few blocks away at 27 Rue de la République—same hours and ticket, tel. 04 90 86 33 84, musee-calvet.org.
Built to protect access to St. Bénezet Bridge in 1307, this hulking tower offers a terrific view over Avignon and the Rhône basin. It’s best late in the day.
Cost and Hours: €2.30; March-April Tue-Sun 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:00, closed Mon; May-Oct daily 10:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:00; closed Nov-Feb.
Getting There: To reach the tower from Avignon, drive five minutes (cross Daladier Bridge, follow signs to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon), or take bus #11 (2/hour, catch bus in front of post office on Cours Président Kennedy—see map on here).
Hotel values are better in Arles, though I’ve found some pretty good deals in Avignon. Avignon is crazy during its July festival, when you must book long ahead (expect inflated prices). Drivers should ask about parking deals as most hotels offer 20 percent off on pay lots.
These listings are a five-to-ten-minute walk from the Centre-Ville train station.
$$$ Hôtel Bristol*** is a big, professionally run place on the main drag, offering predictable “American” comforts, including spacious public spaces, large rooms decorated in neutral tones, duvets on the beds, a big elevator, air-conditioning, and a generous buffet breakfast (standard Db-€116, bigger Db-€140, Tb/Qb-€170, breakfast-€12, parking-€12, 44 Cours Jean Jaurès, tel. 04 90 16 48 48, bristol-hotel-avignon.com, contact@bristol-avignon.com).
$$ Hôtel Colbert** is a solid two-star hotel and a good mid-range bet, with richly colored, comfortable rooms in many sizes. Your serious hosts—Patrice, Annie, and le chien Brittany—care for this restored manor house, with its warm public spaces and sweet little patio. It’s a popular place, so it’s best to book in advance (Sb-€72, small Db-€78, bigger Db-€92, some tight bathrooms, no triples, rooms off the patio can be musty, air-con, Wi-Fi, no elevator, closed Nov-mid-March, turn right off Cours Jean Jaurès on Rue Agricol Perdiguier to #7, tel. 04 90 86 20 20, lecolbert-hotel.com, contact@avignon-hotel-colbert.com).
$$ Hôtel Ibis Centre Gare** offers no surprises—just predictable two-star comfort at the central train and bus stations. This well-priced place offers generous public spaces, a big café, an elevator, and a bar (Db-€75-90, guest computer and Wi-Fi, 42 Boulevard St. Roch, tel. 04 90 85 38 38, ibishotel.com, h0944@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel le Splendid* rents 17 acceptable rooms with faux-wood floors, most of which could use a little attention (Sb-€52, Db-€72, bigger Db with air-con-€82, Tb with air-con-€90, three Db apartments-€98, continental breakfast-€9, guest computer and Wi-Fi, no elevator, turn right off Cours Jean Jaurès on Rue Agricol Perdiguier to #17, tel. 04 90 86 14 46, avignon-splendid-hotel.com, splendidavignon@gmail.com).
$ Hôtel Boquier**, run by engaging managers Madame Sendra and husband Pascal, has 12 quiet, good-value, and homey rooms under wood beams in a central location (small Db-€62, bigger Db-€73, Tb-€81, Qb-€94, air-con, guest computer and Wi-Fi, steep and narrow stairways to some rooms, no elevator, parking-€12, near the TI at 6 Rue du Portail Boquier, tel. 04 90 82 34 43, hotel-boquier.com, contact@hotel-boquier.com).
$ Hôtel Innova is a shy little place with 11 spotless rooms at good rates (Db-€50-60, €8 less for rooms sans WC, extra person-€7, no air-con, no elevator, 100 Rue Joseph Vernet, tel. 04 90 82 54 10, hotel-innova.fr, innova.hotel@wanadoo.fr).
$$$ Hôtel d’Europe****, with Avignon’s most prestigious address, lets peasants sleep royally without losing their shirts—but only if they land one of the 14 surprisingly reasonable “classique” rooms. Enter through a shady courtyard, linger in the lounges, and savor every comfort. The hotel is located on the handsome Place Crillon, near the river (standard Db-€195-220, large Db-€365-€550, view suites-€900, breakfast-€21, guest computer, elevator, garage-€18, near Daladier Bridge at 12 Place Crillon, tel. 04 90 14 76 76, heurope.com, reservations@heurope.com). The hotel’s fine restaurant is described in “Eating in Avignon,” later.
$$$ Hôtel de l’Horloge****, a top four-star choice, is as central as it gets—right on Place de l’Horloge. It offers 66 well-appointed rooms, some with terraces and views of the city and the Palace of the Popes (standard Db-€100-120, bigger Db with terrace-€150-215, terrace rooms also work as Tb or Qb, elaborate buffet breakfast/brunch-€17, served until 11:00, 1 Rue Félicien David, tel. 04 90 16 42 00, hotel-avignon-horloge.com, hotel.horloge@hotels-ocre-azur.com).
$$$ Hôtel Mercure Cité des Papes***, within spitting distance of the Palace of the Popes, has 89 smartly designed rooms with every comfort (Sb-€135-150, standard Db-€170, large Db-€200, breakfast-€13, look for Internet deals, many rooms have views over Place de l’Horloge, air-con, elevator, 1 Rue Jean Vilar, tel. 04 90 80 93 00, mercure.com, h1952@accor.com).
$$$ Hôtel Pont d’Avignon***, just inside the walls near St. Bénezet Bridge, is part of the same chain as Hôtel Mercure Cité des Papes, with the same prices for its 87 rooms. There’s a smart atrium breakfast room and small garden terrace (direct access to a garage makes parking easier than at the other Mercure hotel, elevator, on Rue Ferruce, tel. 04 90 80 93 93, mercure.com, h0549@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel Médiéval** is burrowed deep a few blocks from the Church of St. Pierre. Built as a cardinal’s home, this stone mansion has a small garden and 35 pastel, air-conditioned rooms, with helpful Régis and Mike manning the ship (Sb-€60, Db-€75-92, Tb-€110, kitchenettes available but require 3-night minimum stay, Wi-Fi, no elevator, 5 blocks east of Place de l’Horloge, behind Church of St. Pierre at 15 Rue Petite Saunerie, tel. 04 90 86 11 06, hotelmedieval.com, hotel.medieval@wanadoo.fr).
$$ Hôtel Mignon* is a good-enough, one-star place with fair comfort, air-conditioning, and tiny bathrooms (Sb-€60, Db-€70-75, Tb-€87, Qb-€116, guest computer and Wi-Fi, 12 Rue Joseph Vernet, tel. 04 90 82 17 30, hotel-mignon.com, reservation@hotel-mignon.fr).
$$$ Lumani provides the ultimate urban refuge just inside the city walls, a 15-minute walk from the Palace of the Popes. In this graceful old manor house, gentle Elisabeth and Jean welcome guests to their art-gallery-cum-bed-and-breakfast that surrounds a fountain-filled courtyard with elbow room. She paints, he designs buildings, and both care about your experience in Avignon. The five rooms are decorated with flair; no two are alike, and all overlook the shady garden (small Db-€100, big Db-€140, Db suites-€170, extra person-€30, includes organic breakfast, guest computer and Wi-Fi, music studio, parking-€10 or easy on street, 37 Rue de Rempart St. Lazare, tel. 04 90 82 94 11, avignon-lumani.com, lux@avignon-lumani.com).
$$$ Autour du Petit Paradis Apartments, run by Sabine and Patrick, offer four well-furnished apartments conveniently located in the city center (€750-1,000/week, 5 Rue Noel Biret, tel. 04 90 81 00 42, autourdupetitparadis.com, contact@autourdupetitparadis.com).
$ Auberge Bagatelle offers dirt-cheap beds in two buildings—a budget hotel and a youth hostel—and has a young and lively vibe, café, grocery store, launderette, great views of Avignon, and campers for neighbors (Ds-€46, Db-€66, Tb-€95, Qb-€100, dorm bed-€18, includes breakfast, across Daladier Bridge on Ile de la Barthelasse, bus #10 from main post office, tel. 04 90 86 30 39, campingbagatelle.fr, auberge.bagatelle@wanadoo.fr).
$$$ At Jardin de Bacchus, just 15 minutes northwest of Avignon and convenient to Pont du Gard, enthusiastic and English-speaking Christine and Erik offer three double rooms in their rural farmhouse, which overlooks the famous rosé vineyards of Tavel (Db-€90-120, includes breakfast, fine dinner possible, Wi-Fi, swimming pool, tel. 04 66 90 28 62, jardindebacchus.fr, jardindebacchus@gmail.com). Check their website to learn about their small-group food and wine tours. For bus connections, see edgard-transport.fr.
Avignon offers a good range of dining experiences and settings from lively squares to atmospheric streets. Skip the overpriced, underwhelming restaurants on Place de l’Horloge and find a more intimate location for your dinner. Avignon is riddled with delightful squares and backstreets with tables ready to seat you.
Wherever you dine, start or end your evening on atmospheric Rue des Teinturiers at La Cave des Pas Sages for a cheap glass of regional wine. Choose from the blackboard by the bar that lists all the open bottles, then join the gang outside by the canal. In the evening, this place is a hit with the young local crowd for its wine and weekend concerts (Mon-Sat 10:00-1:00 in the morning, closed Sun, no food in evening, across from waterwheel at 41 Rue des Teinturiers).
(See “Avignon Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Book a few days ahead for these places:
L’Essentiel is where in-the-know locals go for a fine meal at reasonable prices. The setting is classy-contemporary, the wine list is extensive, the cuisine is classic French, and gentle owner Dominique makes timid diners feel at ease (inside only, €32-45 menus, closed Sun-Mon, 2 Rue Petite Fusterie, tel. 04 90 85 87 12, restaurantlessentiel.com).
Le Moutardier serves fine meals with a mesmerizing, full-monty view of the floodlit Palace of the Popes. Book ahead for the terrace tables, but skip it if you can’t dine outside (€36-50 menus, daily, 15 Place du Palais, tel. 04 90 85 34 76).
Hôtel d’Europe’s restaurant earned a Michelin star and serves a surprisingly reasonable menu in its lovely dining room and courtyard terrace (€48 menu, inexpensive champagne, see “Sleeping in Avignon,” earlier, for details).
Restaurant Numéro 75 is worth the walk (just past where the cobbles end on Rue des Teinturiers). It fills the Pernod mansion (of pastis liquor fame) and a large, romantic courtyard with outdoor tables. The selection is limited to Mediterranean cuisine, but everything’s très tasty (€30 lunch menu, dinner menus: €29 two-course and €35 three-course, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 20:00-22:00, closed Sun, 75 Rue Guillaume Puy, tel. 04 90 27 16 00, numero75.com).
(See “Avignon Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
La Vache à Carreaux venerates cheese and wine, while offering a full range of cuisine. It’s a lively place to spend an evening, with colorful decor and an extensive and reasonable wine list. This place is a hit with locals, who gather around outside sipping €4 glasses of good wine, reluctant to leave. Try the poulet au Comté (chicken with Comté cheese) or a tartiflette (tasty scalloped potatoes with melted cheese), and say bonsoir to welcoming owner Ludovic (inside dining only, €9 starters, €12-16 plats, open daily, just off atmospheric Place des Châtaignes at 14 Rue de la Peyrollerie, tel. 04 90 80 09 05).
Le Fou de Fafa’s friendly British owners are making a splash with locals, serving tasty, fresh, creative cuisine at good prices. Delightful Antonia runs the entire room alone while her husband cooks (inside dining only, book ahead or arrive early, open at 18:30, closed Mon, €22-27 menus, 17 Rue des Trois Faucons, tel. 04 32 76 35 13).
Le Caveau du Théâtre is a convivial place where Richard invites diners to have a glass of wine or dinner at a sidewalk table, or inside in one of two carefree rooms (€15 plats, €22-28 menus, fun ambience for free, closed for lunch Sat and all day Sun, 16 Rue des Trois Faucons, tel. 04 90 82 60 91).
Rue des Teinturiers: This street has a fun concentration of mid-range eateries popular with the locals, and justifies the long walk. It’s a trendy, youthful area, spiffed up with a canalside ambience and little hint of tourism. Le Zinzolin, enjoyable and artsy, serves international cuisine to a younger crowd at fair prices with good vegetarian options (meal-size salads-€12, plats-€14, desserts-€4, closed Sun-Mon, 22 Rue des Teinturiers, tel. 04 90 82 41 55). Note that Restaurant Numéro 75 and La Cave des Pas Sages, both listed earlier, are on this street.
On the Rhône River: Le Bercail offers a fun opportunity to get out of town (barely) and take in le fresh air with a terrific riverfront view of Avignon, all while enjoying big portions of Provençal cooking (menus from €26, daily April-Oct, serves late, tel. 04 90 82 20 22). Take the free shuttle boat (located near St. Bénezet Bridge) to the Ile de la Barthelasse, turn right, and walk five minutes. As the boat usually stops running at about 18:00 (except in July-Aug, when it runs until 21:00), you can either taxi home or walk 25 minutes along the pleasant riverside path and over Daladier Bridge.
(See “Avignon Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
At L’Epice and Love (the name is a fun French-English play on words, pronounced “lay peace and love”), English-speaking owner Marie creates a playful atmosphere in her inviting restaurant, where the few colorfully decorated tables (inside only) greet the hungry traveler. The limited selection changes daily, and Marie cooks it all: tasty meat, fish, and vegetarian dishes, some with a North African touch, all served at good prices (€16 menus, closed Sun, 30 Rue des Lices, tel. 04 90 82 45 96).
Place des Châtaignes: This square offers cheap meals and a fun commotion of tables. The intimate Chez Lulu is the best of the lot, with a handful of tables inside and out and a limited menu that assures quality cuisine. Their gourmet burger is a treat (€15 plats, closed Tue-Wed, 6 Place des Châtaignes, tel. 04 90 85 69 44). The Crêperie du Cloître makes cheap, mediocre dinner crêpes and salads, but has the best seating on the square (daily, cash only).
Place des Corps-Saints: This untouristy yet welcoming square is my favorite place for simple outdoor dining in Avignon. You’ll find several reasonable eateries with tables sprawling under big plane trees. Bistrot à Tartines specializes in—you guessed it—tartines (big slices of toast smothered with toppings), and has the coziest interior and best desserts on the square (€8 tartines and salads, €10 lunch menu, daily, tel. 04 90 85 58 70). Zeste is a friendly, modern deli offering fresh soups, pasta salads, wraps, smoothies, and more. Get it to go, or eat inside or on the scenic square—all at unbeatable prices (closed Sun, tel. 09 51 49 05 62). Boulangerie Olivero makes a fine setting for a budget breakfast, lunch, or a light (and early) dinner. Monsieur Olivero makes a mean baguette and offers anyone showing this book a free croissant with any purchase. Enjoy your coffee, croissant, sandwich, or quiche at the outside tables (on the square near Rue des Lices, daily until 20:00).
Place Pie: On this big square filled with cafés, Avignon’s youth make their home. Restaurant Françoise is a pleasant café and tea salon, where fresh-baked tarts—savory and sweet—and a variety of salads and soups make a healthful meal, and vegetarian options are plentiful (€7-12 dishes, Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00, closed Sun, free Wi-Fi, a block off Place Pie at 6 Rue Général Leclerc, tel. 04 32 76 24 77).
Remember, there are two train stations in Avignon: the suburban TGV Station and the Centre-Ville Station in the city center (see here for information on how to connect these stations). TGV trains usually serve the TGV Station only, though a few depart from Centre-Ville Station (check your ticket). Only Centre-Ville has baggage storage (see “Arrival in Avignon,” here) and only the TGV Station has car rental. Some cities are served by slower local trains from Centre-Ville Station as well as by faster TGV trains from the TGV Station; I’ve listed the most convenient stations for each trip.
From Avignon’s Centre-Ville Station to: Arles (roughly hourly, 20 minutes, less frequent in the afternoon), Lyon (10/day, 2 hours, also from TGV Station—see below), Paris’ Gare de Lyon (5/day, 3.5 hours, also from TGV Station—see below), Barcelona (2/day, 5.75 hours with changes in Nîmes and Figueres-Vilafant; more frequent but slower with a change in Cerbère).
From Avignon’s TGV Station to: Nice (20/day, most by TGV, 4 hours, most require transfer in Marseille), Marseille (10/day, 35 minutes), Lyon (12/day, 1.5 hours, also from Centre-Ville Station—see above), Paris’ Gare de Lyon (9/day direct, 2.5 hours; more connections with transfer, 3-4 hours; also from Centre-Ville Station—see above), Paris’ Charles de Gaulle airport (7/day, 3 hours).
The bus station (gare routière) is just past and below Hôtel Ibis, to the right as you exit the train station. Nearly all buses leave from this station (a few leave from the ring road outside the station—ask, buy tickets on bus, small bills only, explained on here). Service is reduced or nonexistent on Sundays and holidays. Check your departure time beforehand, and make sure to verify your destination with the driver.
From Avignon to Pont du Gard: Buses go to this famous Roman aqueduct (3/day, 50 minutes, departs from bus station and possibly from TGV Station in high season, ask about round-trip ticket that includes Pont du Gard entry); I’d also consider a taxi one-way and bus back.
From Avignon to Arles: Buses leave from the TGV Station (8/day, 1 hour).
Throughout the ancient world, aqueducts were like flags of stone that heralded the greatness of Rome. A visit to this sight still works to proclaim the wonders of that age. This perfectly preserved Roman aqueduct was built in about 19 B.C. as the critical link of a 30-mile canal that, by dropping one inch for every 350 feet, supplied nine million gallons of water per day (about 100 gallons per second) to Nîmes—one of ancient Europe’s largest cities. Though most of the aqueduct is on or below the ground, at Pont du Gard it spans a canyon on a massive bridge—one of the most remarkable surviving Roman ruins anywhere. Wear sturdy shoes if you want to climb around the aqueduct (footing is tricky), and bring swimwear and flip-flops if you plan to backstroke with views of the monument.
The famous aqueduct is between Remoulins and Vers-Pont du Gard on D-981, and 13 miles from Avignon.
By Car: Pont du Gard is a 25-minute drive due west of Avignon (follow N-100 from Avignon, tracking signs to Nîmes and Remoulins, then Pont du Gard and Rive Gauche), and 45 minutes northwest of Arles (via Tarascon on D-6113). If going to Arles from Pont du Gard, follow signs to Nîmes (not Avignon), then D-6113, or A-54 (autoroute) to Arles.
By Bus: Buses run to Pont du Gard (on the Rive Gauche side) from Avignon (3/day, 50 minutes), Nîmes, and Uzès. Consider this plan: Take a morning bus from Avignon’s bus station (8:45 or 11:40), then hop on the early-afternoon (13:16) or evening (17:25) bus back to Avignon. Confirm all of these times at a TI or at pontdugard.fr. The 8:45 trip out and 13:16 trip back works best for most. Allow about four or five hours for visiting Pont du Gard, including transportation time from Avignon.
Buses stop at the traffic roundabout 300 yards from the aqueduct (stop name: Rond Point Pont du Gard; see Pont du Gard map). In summer and on weekends, however, buses usually drive into the Pont du Gard site and stop at the parking lot’s ticket booth. Confirm where the bus stops at the parking booth inside the Pont du Gard site.
At the roundabout, the stop for buses coming from Avignon and Nîmes (and going to Uzès) is on the side opposite Pont du Gard; the stop for buses to Nîmes and to Avignon is on the same side as Pont du Gard (a block to your left as you exit Pont du Gard onto the main road). Make sure you’re waiting for the bus on the correct side of the traffic circle (stops have schedules posted), and wave your hand to signal the bus to stop for you (otherwise, it’ll chug on by). Buy your ticket when you get on and verify your destination with the driver.
By Taxi: From Avignon it’s about €55 for a taxi to Pont du Gard (allow €70 after 19:00 and on Sun). If you’re staying in Avignon and only want to see Pont du Gard, consider splurging on a taxi to the aqueduct in the morning, then take the early-afternoon bus back.
There are two riversides to Pont du Gard: the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) and Right Bank (Rive Droite). Park on the Rive Gauche, where you’ll find the museums, ticket booth, ATM, cafeteria, WCs, and shops—all built into a modern plaza. You’ll see the aqueduct in two parts: first the fine museum complex, then the actual river gorge spanned by the ancient bridge.
Cost and Hours: €18 per car (for up to five; €12 for a motorcycle, €23 for an annual pass). If arriving on foot, by bus, or by bike, you’ll pay €10 per person. This gives you access to the aqueduct, museum, film, and outdoor garrigue nature area. The museum is open daily May-Sept 9:00-19:00, Oct-April 9:00-17:00, closed two weeks in Jan. The aqueduct itself is open until 1:00 in the morning, as is the parking lot. The garrigue is always open. Tel. 04 66 37 99, pontdugard.fr.
Tours: Call ahead or visit the website for information on infrequent guided walks on top of the aqueduct (about €10).
Canoe Rental: Floating under Pont du Gard by canoe is an experience you won’t soon forget. Collias Canoes will pick you up at Pont du Gard (or elsewhere, if pre-arranged) and shuttle you to the town of Collias. You’ll float down the river to the nearby town of Remoulins, where they’ll pick you up and take you back to Pont du Gard (€21/person, €12/child under 12, usually 2 hours, though you can take as long as you like, good idea to reserve the day before in July-Aug, tel. 04 66 22 85 54).
Plan Ahead for Swimming and Hiking: Pont du Gard is perhaps best enjoyed on your back and in the water—bring along a swimsuit and flip-flops for the rocks. The best Pont du Gard viewpoints are up steep hills with uneven footing—bring good shoes.
In this state-of-the-art museum (well-presented in English), you’ll enter to the sound of water and understand the critical role fresh water played in the Roman “art of living.” You’ll see examples of lead pipes, faucets, and siphons; walk through a mock rock quarry; and learn how they moved those huge rocks into place and how those massive arches were made. While actual artifacts from the aqueduct are few, the exhibit shows the immensity of the undertaking as well as the payoff. Imagine the excitement as this extravagant supply of water finally tumbled into Nîmes. A relaxing highlight is the scenic video of a helicopter ride along the entire 30-mile course of the structure, from its start at Uzès all the way to the Castellum in Nîmes.
Several additional attractions are designed to give the sight more meaning—and they do (but for most visitors, the museum is sufficient). A corny, romancing-the-aqueduct 25-minute film plays in the same building as the museum and offers good information in a flirtatious French-Mediterranean style...and a cool, entertaining, and cushy break. The nearby kids’ museum, called Ludo, offers a scratch-and-sniff teaching experience (in English) of various aspects of Roman life and the importance of water. The extensive outdoor garrigue natural area, closer to the aqueduct, features historic crops and landscapes of the Mediterranean.
A park-like path leads to the aqueduct. Until a few years ago, this was an actual road—adjacent to the aqueduct—that had spanned the river since 1743. Before you cross the bridge, pass under it and hike about 300 feet along the riverbank for a grand viewpoint from which to study the world’s second-highest standing Roman structure. (Rome’s Colosseum is only 6 feet taller.)
This was the biggest bridge in the whole 30-mile-long aqueduct. It seems exceptional because it is: The arches are twice the width of standard aqueducts, and the main arch is the largest the Romans ever built—80 feet (so it wouldn’t get its feet wet). The bridge is about 160 feet high and was originally about 1,100 feet long. Today, 12 arches are missing, reducing the length to 790 feet.
Though the distance from the source (in Uzès) to Nîmes was only 12 miles as the eagle flew, engineers chose the most economical route, winding and zigzagging 30 miles. The water made the trip in 24 hours with a drop of only 40 feet. Ninety percent of the aqueduct is on or under the ground, but a few river canyons like this required bridges. A stone lid hides a four-foot-wide, six-foot-tall chamber lined with waterproof mortar that carried the stream for more than 400 years. For 150 years, this system provided Nîmes with good drinking water. Expert as the Romans were, they miscalculated the backup caused by a downstream corner, and had to add the thin extra layer you can see just under the lid to make the channel deeper.
The bridge and the river below provide great fun for holiday-goers. While parents suntan on rocks, kids splash into the gorge from under the aqueduct. Some daredevils actually jump from the aqueduct’s lower bridge—not knowing that crazy winds scrambled by the structure cause painful belly flops (and sometimes even accidental deaths). For the most refreshing view, float flat on your back underneath the structure.
The appearance of the entire gorge changed in 2002, when a huge flood flushed lots of greenery downstream. Those floodwaters put Roman provisions to the test. Notice the triangular-shaped buttresses at the lower level—designed to split and divert the force of any flood around the feet of the arches rather than into them. The 2002 floodwaters reached the top of those buttresses. Anxious park rangers winced at the sounds of trees crashing onto the ancient stones...but the arches stood strong.
The stones that jut out—giving the aqueduct a rough, unfinished appearance—supported the original scaffolding. The protuberances were left, rather than cut off, in anticipation of future repair needs. The lips under the arches supported wooden templates that allowed the stones in the round arches to rest on something until the all-important keystone was dropped into place. Each stone weighs four to six tons. The structure stands with no mortar (except at the very top, where the water flowed)—taking full advantage of the innovative Roman arch, made strong by gravity.
Hike over the bridge for a closer look and the best views. Steps lead up a high trail (marked panorama) to a superb viewpoint (go right at the top; best views are soon after the trail starts descending). You’ll also see where the aqueduct meets a rock tunnel. Walk through the tunnel and continue for a bit, following a trail that meanders along the canal’s path.
Back on the museum side, steps lead up to the Rive Gauche side of the aqueduct, where you can follow the canal path along a trail (marked with red-and-white horizontal lines) to find some remains of the Roman canal. You’ll soon reach another panorama with more great views of the aqueduct. Hikers can continue along the path, following the red-and-white markings that lead through a forest, after which you’ll come across more remains of the canal (much of which are covered by vegetation). There’s not much left to see because of medieval cannibalization—frugal builders couldn’t resist the precut stones as they constructed area churches (stones along the canal were easier to retrieve than those high up on the aqueduct). The path continues for about 15 miles, but there’s little reason to go farther. However, there is talk of opening the ancient quarry...someday.