Cooking Classes and Market Tours
Local Guides for Private Tours
Weekend Tour Packages for Students
South of the Arno River, in the Oltrarno
Map: Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants
South of the River, in the Oltrarno
Florence, the home of the Renaissance and birthplace of our modern world, has the best Renaissance art in Europe. In a single day, you could look Michelangelo’s David in the eyes, fall under the seductive sway of Botticelli’s Birth of Venus, and climb the modern world’s first dome, which still dominates the skyline.
Get your bearings with a Renaissance walk. Florentine art goes beyond paintings and statues—enjoy the food, fashion, and street markets. You can lick Italy’s best gelato while enjoying some of Europe’s best people-watching.
If you’re in Italy, Florence deserves at least one well-organized day: see the Accademia (David), tour the Uffizi Gallery (Renaissance art), visit the underrated Bargello (best statues), and do the Renaissance Walk (see here; to avoid heat and crowds, do this walk in the morning or late afternoon). Art lovers will want to chisel out another day of their itinerary for the many other Florentine cultural treasures. Shoppers and ice-cream lovers may need to do the same.
Plan your sightseeing carefully; follow the tips and tricks in this chapter to save time and avoid lines. This is particularly important if you’ll be in town for only a day or two during the crowded summer months.
The Uffizi Gallery and Accademia nearly always have long ticket-buying lines, especially in peak season (April-Oct) and on holiday weekends. Crowds thin out on weekdays in the off-season. You can easily avoid the wait by making reservations (see here) or buying a Firenze Card (see here). Note that both of these major sights are closed on Monday.
Some sights close early—even before 14:00. In general, Sundays and Mondays are not ideal for sightseeing, as many places are either closed or have shorter hours.
Connoisseurs of smaller towns should consider taking the bus to Siena for a day or evening trip (1.25 hours one-way, confirm when last bus returns).
The best of Florence lies on the north bank of the Arno River. The main historical sights cluster around the red-brick dome of the cathedral (Duomo). Everything is within a 20-minute walk of the train station, cathedral, or Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). The less famous but more characteristic Oltrarno area (south bank) is just over the bridge.
Though small, Florence is intense. Prepare for scorching summer heat, slick pickpockets, few WCs, steep prices, and long lines. Easy tourist money has corrupted some locals, making them greedy and dishonest (check your bill carefully). Visitors to Florence will enjoy the city’s newfound passion for traffic-free zones. Once brutal for pedestrians, the city is now a delight on foot.
Florence has two separate TI organizations, which are equally helpful.
One TI has two different branches, both with a focus on the city. The main branch is across the square from the train station and very crowded (Mon-Sat 8:30-19:00, Sun 8:30-14:00; with your back to tracks, exit the station—it’s 100 yards away, across the square in wall near corner of church at Piazza Stazione 4; if you see a “tourist information” desk inside the train station, it’s a hotel-booking service in disguise; tel. 055-212-245, firenzeturismo.it). The smaller branch is very centrally located at Piazza del Duomo, at the west corner of Via Calzaiuoli (it’s inside the Bigallo Museum/Loggia; Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, tel. 055-288-496).
The other TI organization covers both the city and the greater province of Florence. Its main branch is a couple of blocks north of the Duomo and is often less crowded than the others (Mon-Sat 8:30-18:30, closed Sun, just past Medici-Riccardi Palace at Via Cavour 1 red, tel. 055-290-832, international bookstore across street); a second branch is at the airport (daily 8:30-20:30).
At any TI, you’ll find these free, handy resources in English:
• city map (also ask for the transit map, which has bus routes of interest to tourists on the back; your hotel likely has freebie maps, too)
• current museum-hours listing (very important, since no guidebook—including this one—has ever been able to accurately predict the hours of Florence’s sights for the coming year; you can also download this list at firenzeturismo.it)
• a list of current exhibitions
• a list of pay (€1) public WCs (generally scarce in Florence)
• a printout of what’s happening that day, including concerts
• the compact Firenze Info booklet, loaded with useful practical details
• Firenze: The Places of Interest, a fold-out with brief descriptions of sightseeing options
• information on events and entertainment, including the TI’s monthly Florence & Tuscany News
• the glossy monthly Florence Concierge Information magazine (stuffed with ads for shopping and restaurants, but also includes some practical information)
• The Florentine newspaper (published every other Thursday in English, for expats and tourists, great articles giving cultural insights, schedule of goings-on around town, download latest issue at theflorentine.net). A similar publication is The Florence Newspaper (theflorencenewspaper.com).
The Florence magazine and newspapers just mentioned are often available at hotels throughout town.
The TIs across from the train station and on Via Cavour sell the Firenze Card, an expensive but handy sightseeing pass that allows you to skip the lines at top museums (see here).
Florence’s main train station is called Santa Maria Novella (Firenze S.M.N. on schedules and signs). Built in Mussolini’s “Rationalism” style back between the wars, in some ways the station seems to have changed little—notice the 1930s-era lettering and architecture.
Florence also has two suburban train stations: Firenze Rifredi and Firenze Campo di Marte. Note that some trains don’t stop at the main station—before boarding, confirm that you’re heading for S.M.N., or you may overshoot the city. (If this happens, don’t panic; the other stations are a short taxi ride from the center.)
Take advantage of the user-friendly “Fast Ticket” (Biglietto Veloce) machines that display schedules, issue tickets, and even make reservations for rail pass holders. Some take only credit cards; others take cards and cash. Using them is easy—it actually can be fun; just tap “English.” There are two train companies: Trenitalia, with most connections, has green-and-white machines (toll tel. 892-021, trenitalia.it); the red machines are for the new high-speed Italo service, run by a private operator (no rail passes accepted, cheaper the further in advance you book, tel. 06-0708, italotreno.it).
To get international tickets, you’ll need to either go to a ticket window (in the main hall) or a travel agency. To orient yourself to Santa Maria Novella Station and nearby services, stand with your back to the tracks. Look left to see the green cross of a 24-hour pharmacy (farmacia) and a small food court. Baggage storage (deposito bagagli) is also to the left, halfway down track 16 (€5/5 hours, then €0.70/hour for 6-12 hours and €0.30/hour for over 12 hours, daily 6:00-23:00, passport required, maximum 40 pounds, no explosives—sorry).
Directly ahead of you is the main hall (salone biglietti, with ticket windows). WCs (€1) and the Trenitalia information office are to the right, near track 5. The high-speed Italo information office and small waiting room are opposite track 5, near the exit. Avoid the station’s fake “Tourist Information” office, funded by hotels, if it’s still around. To reach the real TI, walk away from the tracks and exit the station; it’s straight across the square, 100 yards away, by the stone church. For cheap eats, the food court near track 16 includes places to get pizza, paninis, and simple salads, plus a McDonald’s. Alternatively, the handy Margherita/Conad supermarket—with sandwiches and salads to go—is just around the corner (with your back to the tracks, leave the station to the right, go down the steps, and it’s immediately on your right on Via Luigi Alamanni; Mon-Sat 7:30-20:30, closed Sun).
Getting to the Duomo and City Center: The Duomo and town center are to your left (with your back to the tracks). Out the doorway to the left, you’ll find city buses and the taxi stand. Taxis cost about €8 to the Duomo, and the line moves fast, except on holidays. To walk into town (10-15 minutes), exit the station through the main hall, and head straight across the square outside (toward the Church of Santa Maria Novella). On the far side of the square, keep left and head down the main Via dei Panzani, which leads directly to the Duomo.
The bus station is next to the train station, with the TI across the square. Exit the station through the main door, and turn left along the busy street toward the brick dome. The train station is on your left, while downtown Florence is straight ahead and a bit to the right.
The autostrada has several exits for Florence. Get off at the Nord, Sud, or Certosa exits and follow signs toward—but not into—the Centro.
Don’t even attempt driving into the city center. Florence has a traffic-reduction system that’s complicated and confusing even to locals. Every car passing into the Zona Traffico Limitato (ZTL) is photographed; those who haven’t jumped through bureaucratic hoops to get a permit can expect to receive a €100 ticket in the mail (and an “administrative” fee from the rental company). If you get lost and cross the line several times...you get several fines. The no-go zone (defined basically by the old medieval wall, now a boulevard circling the historic center of town—watch for Zona Traffico Limitato signs) is roughly the area between the river, main train station, Piazza della Libertà, Piazza Donatello, and Piazza Beccaria. If you think you’ve crossed the line, and end up parking at a garage, it’s worth asking the attendant if there’s anything he can do to belatedly register your car (and cancel your ticket).
Parking: The city center is ringed with big, efficient parking lots (signposted with the standard big P), each with taxi and bus service into the center. Check firenzeparcheggi.it for details on parking lots, availability, and prices. From the freeway, follow the signs to Centro, then Stadio, then P. I usually head for “Parcheggio del Parterre,” just beyond Piazza della Libertà (€2/hour, €20/day, €65/week, open 24 hours daily, tel. 055-500-1994, 600 spots, automated, pay with cash or credit card, never fills up completely). To get into town, find the taxi stand at the elevator exit, or ride one of the minibuses that connect all of the major parking lots with the city center (see ataf.net for routes).
You can park for free along any suburban curb near a bus stop that feels safe and take the bus into the city center from there. Check for signs that indicate parking restrictions—for example, a circle with a slash through it and “dispari giovedi, 0,00-06,00” means “don’t park on Thursdays between midnight and six in the morning.”
Free parking is easy up at Piazzale Michelangelo (see here), but don’t park where the buses drop off passengers; park on the side of the piazza farthest from the view. To get from Piazzale Michelangelo to the center of town, take bus #12 or #13.
Car Rental: If you’re picking up a rental car upon departure, don’t struggle with driving into the center. Taxi with your luggage to the car-rental office, and head out from there.
For information on Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport, see “Florence Connections,” at the end of this chapter.
Theft Alert: Florence has particularly hardworking thief gangs who hang out where you do: near the train station, the station’s underpass (especially where the tunnel surfaces), and at major sights. American tourists—especially older ones—are considered easy targets. Some thieves even dress like tourists to fool you. Be on guard at two squares frequented by drug pushers (Santa Maria Novella and Santo Spirito). Bus #7 (to the nearby town of Fiesole, with great Florence views) is a favorite with tourists and, therefore, with thieves.
Medical Help: There’s no shortage of English-speaking medical help in Florence. To reach a doctor who speaks English, call Medical Service Firenze at 055-475-411; the phone is answered 24/7. Rates are reasonable. For a doctor to come to your hotel within an hour of your call, you’d pay €100-200 (higher rates apply on Sun, holidays, or for late visits). You pay only €50 if you go to the clinic when the doctor’s in (Mon-Fri 11:00-12:00, 13:00-15:00 & 17:00-18:00, Sat 11:00-12:00 & 13:00-15:00, closed Sun, no appointment necessary, Via Roma 4, between the Duomo and Piazza della Repubblica).
Dr. Stephen Kerr is an English doctor specializing in helping sick tourists (drop-in clinic open Mon-Fri 15:00-17:00, other times by appointment, €50/visit, Piazza Mercato Nuovo 1, between Piazza della Repubblica and Ponte Vecchio, tel. 055-288-055, mobile 335-836-1682, dr-kerr.com). The TI has a list of other English-speaking doctors.
There are 24-hour pharmacies at the train station and on Borgo San Lorenzo (near the Baptistery).
Museum Strategies: If you want to see a lot of museums, the pricey Firenze Card—which saves you from having to wait in line or make reservations for the Uffizi and Accademia—can be a good value (see here).
Visiting Churches: Some churches operate like museums, charging an admission fee to see their art treasures. Modest dress for men, women, and even children is required in some churches (including the Duomo, Santa Maria Novella, Santa Croce, Santa Maria del Carmine—with the Brancacci Chapel, and the Medici Chapels). I recommend no bare shoulders, short shorts, or short skirts at any church. Many churches let you borrow or buy a cheap, disposable poncho for instant respectability. Be respectful of worshippers and the paintings; don’t use a flash. Churches usually close from 12:00 or 12:30 to 15:00 or 16:00.
Addresses: For reasons beyond human understanding, Florence has a ridiculously confusing system for street addresses, with separate numbering for businesses (red) and residences (black). In print, this designation is sometimes indicated by a letter following the number: “r” = red, for rosso; no indication or “n” = black, for nero. While usually black, B&Bs can be either. The red and black numbers each appear in roughly consecutive order on streets but bear no apparent connection with one another. While the numbers are sometimes color-coded on street signs, in many cases they appear in neither red nor black, but in blue! I’m lazy and don’t concern myself with the distinction (if one number’s wrong, I look nearby for the other) and can easily find my way around.
Chill Out: Schedule several breaks into your sightseeing when you can sit, pause, cool off, and refresh yourself with a sandwich, gelato, or coffee. Carry a water bottle to refill at Florence’s twist-the-handle public fountains (near the Duomo dome entrance, around the corner from the “Piglet” at the Mercato Nuovo, or in front of the Pitti Palace). Try the fontanello (dispenser of free cold water, frizzante or naturale) on Piazza della Signoria, behind the statue of Neptune (on the left side of the Palazzo Vecchio).
Internet Access: Bustling, tourist-filled Florence has many small Internet cafés. VIP Internet has cheap rates, numerous terminals, and long hours (€1.50/hour, daily 9:00-24:00, near recommended hotel Katti House at Via Faenza 49 red, tel. 055-264-5552).
Most hotels have Wi-Fi, as do an increasing number of cafés and restaurants. If you have a smartphone with an Italian mobile number, you can access free Wi-Fi for two hours a day at various hotspots around town, including at most major squares and along the river (the TI can give you a list of hotspots and instructions).
Bookstores: For a good selection of brand-name guidebooks (including mine), try one of these shops. The first two are locally owned and carry only English books. Paperback Exchange has the widest selection and also deals in used books (Mon-Fri 9:00-19:30, Sat 10:30-19:30, closed Sun, just south of the Duomo on Via delle Oche 4 red, tel. 055-293-460). B & M Books & Fine Art is a bit smaller but also has a great Italian interest section (Tue-Sat 11:00-19:00, closed Sun-Mon, near Ponte alla Carraia at Borgo Ognissanti 4 red, tel. 055-294-575). The local branch of Feltrinelli International has a relatively small English section (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, closed Sun, a few blocks north of the Duomo, across the street from TI and Medici-Riccardi Palace at Via Cavour 12 red, tel. 055-219-524).
WCs: Public restrooms are scarce. Use them when you can, in any café or museum you patronize. A convenient pay WC (€1) is located near the Duomo, at the Baptistery ticket office.
Laundry: The Wash & Dry Lavarapido chain offers long hours and efficient, self-service launderettes at several locations (about €8 for wash and dry, change machine but bring plenty of coins just in case, daily 8:00-22:00, tel. 055-580-480). These are close to recommended hotels: Via dei Servi 105 red (near David), Via del Sole 29 red and Via della Scala 52 red (between train station and river), Via Ghibellina 143 red (Palazzo Vecchio), and Via dei Serragli 87 red (across the river in Oltrarno neighborhood). For more options, ask the TI for a complete list of launderettes.
Bike Rental: The city of Florence rents bikes cheaply at the train station and Piazza Santa Croce (€2/1 hour, €5/5 hours, €10/day, tel. 055-650-5295; information at any TI). Florence by Bike rents two-wheelers of all sizes (€3.50/hour, €9/5 hours, includes bike lock and helmet, child seat-€3 extra; Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 15:30-19:30, Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-17:00, closed Sun Nov-March; a 15-minute walk north of the Duomo at Via San Zanobi 120 red, tel. 055-488-992, firenzeparcheggi.it, info@florencebybike.it).
Travel Agency: While it’s easy to buy train tickets to destinations within Italy at handy machines at the station, travel agencies can be more convenient and helpful for getting international tickets, reservations, and supplements. The cost may be the same, or there may be a minimal charge. Ask your hotelier for the nearest travel agency.
Updates to This Book: For updates to this book, check ricksteves.com/update.
I organize my sightseeing geographically and do it all on foot. I think of Florence as a Renaissance treadmill—it requires a lot of walking. You likely won’t need public transit, except maybe to head up to Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato Church for the view.
Buses: The city’s full-size buses don’t cover the old center well (the whole area around the Duomo is off-limits to motorized traffic). The TI hands out a map of transit routes (information also available on their website—firenzeturismo.it). Of the many bus lines, I find these to be of most value for seeing outlying sights:
Buses #12 and #13 go from the train station to Porta Romana, up to San Miniato Church and Piazzale Michelangelo, and on to Santa Croce.
The train station and Piazza San Marco are two major hubs near the city center; to get between these two, either walk (about 15 minutes) or take bus #1, #6, #14, or #23.
Fun little minibuses (many of them electric, elettrico) wind through the tangled old center of town and up and down the river—just €1.20 gets you a 1.5-hour joyride. These buses, which run every 10 minutes from 7:00 to 21:00 (less frequent on Sun), are popular with sore-footed sightseers and eccentric local seniors.
Bus #C1 stops behind the Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza Santa Croce, then heads north, passing near San Marco and the Accademia before ending up at Piazza Libertà.
Bus #C2 twists through the congested old center from the train station, passing near Piazza della Repubblica and Piazza della Signoria to Piazza Beccaria.
Bus #C3 goes up and down the Arno River, with stops near Ponte Vecchio, the Carraia bridge to the Oltrarno (including the Pitti Palace), and beyond.
Bus #D goes from the train station to Ponte Vecchio, cruises through the Oltrarno (passing the Pitti Palace), and finishes at Ponte San Niccolò.
The minibuses connect many major parking lots with the historical center (tickets sold at machines at lots).
Buy bus tickets at tobacco shops (tabacchi), newsstands, or the ATAF bus office on the west side of the train station (under the “digital” clock) on Piazza della Stazione (€1.20/90 minutes, €4.70/4 tickets, €5/24 hours, €12/3 days, €18/week, day passes aren’t always available in tobacco shops, validate in machine on the bus, tel. 800-424-500, ataf.net). You can sometimes buy tickets on board, but you’ll pay more (€2) and you’ll need exact change. City buses are free with the Firenze Card (see here). Follow general bus etiquette: Board at front or rear doors, exit out the center.
Taxi: The minimum cost for a taxi ride is €5, or €6 after 22:00 and on Sundays (rides in the center of town should be charged as tariff #1). A taxi ride from the train station to the Duomo costs about €8. Taxi fares and supplements (e.g., €2 extra if you call a cab rather than hail one) are clearly explained on signs in each taxi. Before getting in a cab at a stand or on the street, ask for an approximate cost (“Più o meno, quanto costa?” pew oh MEH-noh, KWAHN-toh KOH-stah). If you can’t get a straight answer or the price is outrageous, wait for the next one. It can be hard to find a cab on the street; to call one, dial 055-4390 or 055-4242 (or ask your waiter or hotelier to call for you).
To sightsee on your own, download my series of free audio tours that illuminate some of Florence’s top sights and neighborhoods: my Renaissance Walk, the Accademia, and the Uffizi Gallery (see here for details).
Tour companies big and small offer plenty of excursions that go out to smaller towns in the Tuscan countryside (the most popular day trips: Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa, and into Chianti country for wine-tasting). Florence city tours are readily available, but for most people, the city really is best on foot.
For insight with a personal touch, consider the tour companies and individual Florentine guides listed here. Hardworking and creative, they offer a worthwhile array of organized sightseeing activities. Study their websites for details. If you’re taking a city tour, remember that individuals save money with a scheduled public tour (such as those offered daily by Florencetown or ArtViva). If you’re traveling as a family or small group, however, you’re likely to save money by booking a private guide (since rates are based on roughly €55/hour for any size of group).
This company offers a variety of tours (up to 12/day year-round) featuring downtown Florence and museum highlights. Their guides are native English speakers. The three-hour “Original Florence” walk hits the main sights while weaving a picture of Florentine life in medieval and Renaissance times. Tours go rain or shine with as few as four participants (€29, daily at 9:15 in high season). Museum tours include the Uffizi Gallery (€49, includes admission, 2 hours) and the Accademia (called “Original David” tour, €36, includes admission, 1 hour). Their brochure and website list more activities, including an “Inferno” tour, biking and hiking tours, food and wine tours, and cooking classes. They also offer minibus tours throughout Tuscany (including a villa swim tour) and Cinque Terre day trips (Mon-Sat 8:00-18:00, Sun 8:30-13:30, near Piazza della Repubblica at Via de’ Sassetti 1, second floor, above Odeon Cinema, tel. 055-264-5033 during day or mobile 329-613-2730 from 18:00-20:00, artviva.com).
This well-organized company runs a variety of English-language tours. The boss, Luca Perfetto, offers student rates to anyone with this book, with an additional discount for second tours (if booking on their website, enter the code “RICKSTEVES2014” when prompted). Three tours—their basic town walk, bike tour, and cooking class—are worth considering: The “Walk and Talk Florence” tour, which takes 2.5 hours, hits all the basic spots, including the Oltrarno neighborhood (€19, daily at 10:00). The “I Bike Florence” tour gives you 2.5 hours on a vintage one-speed bike following a fast-talking guide on a blitz of the town’s top sights (€25, daily at 10:00 and 15:00, helmets optional, 15 stops on both sides of the river; in bad weather, the bike tours go as a walking tour). The cooking class includes a market tour (see listing later). Their office is two blocks from the Palazzo Vecchio at Via de Lamberti 1 (find steps off Via de’ Calzaiuoli on the river side of Orsanmichele Church); they also have a “Tourist Point” kiosk on Piazza della Repubblica, under the arches at the corner with Via Pellicceria (tel. 055-012-3994, florencetown.com).
Three art historians—Paola Barubiani and her partners Emma Molignoni and Marzia Valbonesi—provide quality guiding. Their company offers a daily 2.5-hour introductory tour (€50/person, 6 people maximum; outside except for a visit to see David, Accademia entry fee not included) and three-hour private tours (€180, €60/hour for more time, price is for groups of up to 4 people). They also offer an artisans-and-shopping tour, a guided evening walk, cooking classes with a market visit, private cruise excursions from the port of Livorno, and more—see their website for details (ask about Rick Steves rate for any tour, Paola’s mobile 335-526-6496, walksinsideflorence.com, paola@walksinsideflorence.it).
Top-notch private walking tours—geared for thoughtful, well-heeled travelers with longer-than-average attention spans—are led by Florentine scholars. The tours range from introductory city walks and museum visits to in-depth thematic walks, such as the Oltrarno neighborhood, Jewish Florence, and family-oriented tours (tours start at €250, includes personal assistance by email as you plan your trip, reserve in advance, florentia.org, info@florentia.org).
This scholarly group of graduate students and professors leads “walking seminars,” such as a 3.5-hour study of Michelangelo’s work and influence (€80/person, plus museum admission) and a two-hour evening orientation stroll (€65/person). I enjoyed the fascinating three-hour fresco workshop (€75/person plus materials, you take home a fresco you make yourself). See their website for other innovative offerings: Medici walk, lecture series, food walks, kids’ tours, and other programs throughout Europe (tel. 06-9672-7371, US tel. 800-691-6036, contexttravel.com, info@contexttravel.com).
Florencetown offers five-hour classes that start with a trip to the Mercato Centrale for shopping, then settle into their crowded kitchen for a cooking lesson that finishes with eating bruschetta, pasta, a main course, and dessert (likely tiramisù). Serious cooks might be disappointed there isn’t more hands-on experience; others may enjoy the food and conviviality with classmates, though the chef, Giovanni, can be cranky (up to 25 people, €85/person, for Rick Steves discount use the code “RICKSTEVES2014,” Mon-Sat 10:00-15:00, runs rain or shine, Via de Lamberti 1, tel. 055-012-3994, florencetown.com). They also offer a three-hour pizza- and gelato-making class (€45, daily at 18:00).
Note that most of the tour companies recommended earlier offer similar classes.
Alessandra Marchetti, a Florentine who has lived in the US, gives private walking tours of Florence and driving tours of Tuscany (€60-75/hour, mobile 347-386-9839, aleoberm@tin.it).
Paola Migliorini and her partners offer museum tours, city walking tours, private cooking classes, wine tours, and Tuscan excursions by van—you can tailor tours as you like (€60/hour without car, €70/hour in an 8-seat van, tel. 055-472-448, mobile 347-657-2611, florencetour.com, info@florencetour.com); they also do private tours from the cruise-ship port of Livorno.
Roberto Bechi, a great guide based in Siena, can come pick you up in Florence for off-the-beaten-path tours of the Tuscan countryside (mobile 328-425-5648, toursbyroberto.com, toursbyroberto@gmail.com; assistant Carolina can schedule other guides if Roberto is booked, Carolina’s mobile 320-147-6590). If you book any tour with Roberto, he can advise you on other aspects of your trip.
Around town, you’ll see big double-decker sightseeing buses double-parking near major sights. Tourists on the top deck can listen to brief recorded descriptions of the sights, snap photos, and enjoy a drive-by look at major landmarks (€20/1 calendar day, €25/48 hours, pay as you board, firenze.city-sightseeing.it). As the name implies, you can hop off when you want and catch the next bus (usually every 30 minutes, less frequently off-season). But since the most important sights are buried in the old center where big buses can’t go, Florence doesn’t really lend itself to this kind of tour bus. Look at the route map before committing.
500 Touring Club offers a unique look at Florence: from behind the wheel of one of the most iconic Italian cars, a vintage, restored Fiat 500. After a lesson in la doppietta (double-clutching), you’ll head off in a guided convoy, following a lead car with live radio commentary and photo stops at the best viewpoints. Tours depart from a 15th-century villa on the edge of town; the tiny Fiats are restored models from the 1960s and 1970s. Itineraries vary from basic sightseeing to countryside excursions with wine-making and lunch; see their website for options (classic 2.5 hour tour-€70/person, US tel. 347/535-0030, Italian mobile 346-826-2324, Via Gherardo Silvani 149a, 500touringclub.com, info@500touringclub.com, Andrea).
Andy Steves (my son) runs Weekend Student Adventures, offering active and experiential three-day weekend tours from €199, designed for American students abroad (see wsaeurope.com for details on tours of Florence and other great cities).
During the Dark Ages, it was especially obvious to the people of Italy—sitting on the rubble of Rome—that there had to be a brighter age on the horizon. The long-awaited rebirth, or Renaissance, began in Florence for good reason. Wealthy because of its cloth industry, trade, and banking; powered by a fierce city-state pride (locals would pee into the Arno with gusto, knowing rival city-state Pisa was downstream); and fertile with more than its share of artistic genius (imagine guys like Michelangelo and Leonardo attending the same high school)—Florence was a natural home for this cultural explosion.
Take a two-hour walk through the core of Renaissance Florence from the Duomo (cathedral) to Ponte Vecchio on the Arno River. You can download a free Rick Steves audio tour of this walk (see here).
Begin at the Duomo to marvel at the dome that kicked off the architectural Renaissance. Step inside the Baptistery to view a ceiling covered with preachy, flat, 2-D, medieval mosaic art. Then, to learn what happened when art met math, check out the realistic 3-D reliefs on the doors; the man who painted them, Giotto, also designed the bell tower—an early example of a Renaissance genius who excelled in many areas.
Continue toward the river on Florence’s great pedestrian mall, Via de’ Calzaiuoli—part of the original grid plan given to the city by the ancient Romans. Stop by any gelato shop for some cool refreshment. Down a few blocks, compare medieval and Renaissance statues on the exterior of the Orsanmichele Church. Via de’ Calzaiuoli connects the cathedral with the central square (Piazza della Signoria); the city palace (Palazzo Vecchio); and the Uffizi Gallery, which contains the greatest collection of Italian Renaissance paintings in captivity. Finally, walk through the Uffizi courtyard—a statuary think tank of Renaissance greats—to the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio.
Sights North of the Arno River
▲▲▲Accademia (Galleria dell’Accademia)
▲▲Museum of San Marco (Museo di San Marco)
Museum of Precious Stones (Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure)
▲▲Medici Chapels (Cappelle Medicee)
▲Mercato Centrale (Central Market)
▲Medici-Riccardi Palace (Palazzo Medici-Riccardi)
▲▲Duomo (Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore)
▲▲▲Duomo Museum (Museo dell’Opera del Duomo)
Between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria
▲▲▲Bargello (Museo Nazionale del Bargello)
▲Mercato Nuovo (a.k.a. the Straw Market)
▲Piazza della Repubblica and Nearby
On and near Piazza della Signoria
▲▲Galileo Science Museum (Museo Galilei e Istituto di Storia della Scienza)
▲Casa Buonarroti (Michelangelo’s House)
Santa Maria Novella Sights near the Train Station
▲▲Church of Santa Maria Novella
Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella
Sights South of the Arno River
Map: Oltrarno, South of the Arno River
Florence offers several options to help you bypass the lengthy ticket-buying lines that can plague its most popular sights in peak season. You can spend less time in line and more time seeing the sights if you make use of Florence’s official sightseeing pass (the Firenze Card) or make advance reservations.
The Firenze Card (€72) is pricey but convenient. This three-day sightseeing pass gives you admission to many of Florence’s sights, including the Uffizi Gallery and Accademia. Just as important, it lets you skip the ticket-buying lines without making reservations. For busy sightseers, the card can save some money. And for anyone, it can certainly save time.
With the card, you simply go to the entrance at a covered sight (if there’s a “with reservations” door, use it), show the card, and they let you in (though there still may be delays at popular sights with bottleneck entryways or capacity limits). At some sights, you must first present your card at the ticket booth or information desk to get a physical ticket before proceeding to the entrance. For people seeing five or six major sights in a short time, the card is well worth it. (But if you only want to see the Uffizi and Accademia, you’ll save by making individual reservations instead; see “Advance Reservations,” later.)
The Firenze Card is valid for 72 hours from when you validate it at your first museum (e.g., Tue at 15:00 until Fri at 15:00). It covers the regular admission price as well as any special-exhibit surcharges (which are commonly tacked on at major sights such as the Uffizi). The card is good for one visit per sight. It also gives you free use of Florence city buses. The card is not shareable, and there are no family or senior discounts for Americans or Canadians.
Getting the card makes the most sense in peak season, from April through October, when crowds are worst. Off-season travelers could do without it. To figure out if the card is a good deal for you, tally up the entry fees for what you want to see. Here’s a sampling of popular sights and their ticket prices:
• Uffizi Gallery (€6.50, €11 with special exhibits, plus €4 fee if reserved ahead)
• Accademia (same as Uffizi, above)
• Palazzo Vecchio (€6.50, €10 with the tower)
• Bargello (€4, €7 with exhibits)
• Medici Chapels (€6, €9 with exhibits)
• Museum of San Marco (€4)
• Medici-Riccardi Palace (€7)
• Duomo sights: Baptistery, Campanile, dome climb, Duomo Museum (€10)
• Pitti Palace sights: Palatine Gallery and Royal Apartments (€8.50), Boboli and Bardini Gardens (€7)
If you saw these sights without the card you’d pay about €90, including the exhibit and reservation fees. Other covered sights featured in this chapter include the Brancacci Chapel, Church of Santa Maria Novella (including its museum), Santa Croce Church, Casa Buonarroti, Casa di Dante, Museum of Precious Stones, Palazzo Davanzati, and the Galileo Science Museum. The card is great for popping into lesser sights you otherwise wouldn’t pay for. For a complete list of included sights, see firenzecard.it.
Many outlets around town sell the card, including the TIs at the train station and at Via Cavour 1 red (a couple of blocks north of the Duomo) and at some sights: the Uffizi Gallery’s door #2 (enter to the left of the ticket-buying line), back entrance of Santa Maria Novella (near the train station), Bargello, Palazzo Vecchio, and Brancacci Chapel. Lines are shortest at the Via Cavour TI and the Church of Santa Maria Novella (around back at Piazza della Stazione 4); if you’re doing the Uffizi first, door #2 is relatively quick. You can also pay for the card online (firenzecard.it), obtain a voucher, and pick up the card at any of the above locations.
Validate your card only when you’re ready to tackle the covered sights on three consecutive days. Make sure the sights you want to visit will be open (many sights are closed Sun or Mon).
If you don’t get a Firenze Card, it’s smart to make reservations at the often-crowded Accademia and Uffizi Gallery. Some other Florence sights—including the Bargello, Medici Chapels, and Pitti Palace—have reservation systems, but it’s not essential to book ahead for these.
The Brancacci Chapel officially “requires” a reservation, but it’s usually possible to walk right in and get an entry time on weekdays or any day off-season, especially before 15:30 (for details, see here).
Get reservations for these two top sights as soon as you know when you’ll be in town. You can generally get an entry time for the Accademia a few days before your visit, but reserve for the Uffizi well in advance. Without a reservation at the Accademia and Uffizi, you can usually enter without significant lines from November through March after 16:00. But from April through October and on weekends, it can be crowded even late in the day. Any time of year, I’d consider reserving a spot.
There are several ways to make a reservation:
• By Phone: For either sight, reserve by phone before you leave the States (from the US, dial 011-39-055-294-883, or within Italy call 055-294-883; €4/ticket reservation fee; booking office open Mon-Fri 8:30-18:30, Sat 8:30-12:30, closed Sun). The reservation line is often busy. Be persistent. When you get through, an English-speaking operator walks you through the process—a few minutes later you say grazie, having secured an entry time and a confirmation number. You’ll present your confirmation number at the museum and pay cash for your ticket. Note that you pay nothing up front when you reserve by phone.
• Online: Using a credit card, you can reserve your Accademia or Uffizi visit online through the city’s official site (€4/ticket reservation fee, firenzemusei.it). To start, click on the gray “B-ticket” strip, and make sure you “Add” your ticket to the cart before you “Buy” it. You’ll receive an immediate confirmation email, which is followed within three days by a voucher. Bring your voucher to the ticket desk to swap for an actual ticket.
Pricey middleman sites—such as uffizi.com and tickitaly.com—are reliable and more user-friendly than the official site, but their booking fees run about €10 per ticket. (Tip: When ordering from these broker sites, don’t confuse Florence’s Accademia with Venice’s gallery of the same name.)
• Through Your Hotel: When you make your hotel reservation, ask if they can book your museum reservations for you (some hoteliers will do this for free; others charge a €3-5 fee in addition to the reservation fee; they’ll probably give you a confirmation number that you’ll take to the museum, where you’ll pay cash for your ticket).
• Private Tour: Take a tour that includes your museum admission. For example, ArtViva Walking Tours offers tours of the Uffizi (€39/person, 2 hours), Accademia (€35/person, 1 hour), and both museums (€94/person, 6 hours including 3-hour town walk; see listing on here).
• Last-Minute Strategies: If you arrive without a reservation, call the reservation number (see “By Phone” earlier); ask your hotelier for help; or head to a booking window, either at Orsanmichele Church (€4 reservation fee, daily 10:00-17:00, along Via de’ Calzaiuoli—see location on map on here) or at the My Accademia Libreria bookstore across from the Accademia’s exit (€4 reservation fee, Tue-Sun 8:15-17:30, closed Mon, Via Ricasoli 105 red—see map on here). It’s also possible to go to the Uffizi’s official ticket office (use door #2 and skirt to the left of the long ticket-buying line), ask if they have any short-notice reservations available, and pay cash (€4 fee, Tue-Sun 8:15-18:35).
This museum houses Michelangelo’s David, the consummate Renaissance statue of the buff, biblical shepherd boy ready to take on the giant. When you look into the eyes of this magnificent sculpture, you’re looking into the eyes of Renaissance Man.
In 1501, Michelangelo Buonarroti, a 26-year-old Florentine, was commissioned to carve a large-scale work. The figure comes from a Bible story. The Israelites are surrounded by barbarian warriors, who are led by a brutish giant named Goliath. When the giant challenges the Israelites to send out someone to fight him, a young shepherd boy steps forward. Armed only with a sling, David defeats the giant. This 17-foot-tall symbol of divine victory over evil represents a new century and a whole new Renaissance outlook.
Originally, David was meant to stand on the roofline of the Duomo, but it was placed more prominently at the entrance of Palazzo Vecchio (where a copy stands today). In the 19th century, David was moved indoors for his own protection, and stands under a wonderful Renaissance-style dome designed just for him.
Nearby are some of the master’s other works, including his powerful (unfinished) Prisoners, St. Matthew, and a Pietà (possibly by one of his disciples). Florentine Michelangelo Buonarroti, who would work tirelessly through the night, believed that the sculptor was a tool of God, responsible only for chipping away at the stone until the intended sculpture emerged. Beyond the magic marble are some mildly interesting pre-Renaissance and Renaissance paintings, including a couple of lighter-than-air Botticellis, the plaster model of Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women, and a musical instrument collection with an early piano.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, €11 with mandatory special exhibits, additional €4 for recommended reservation, covered by Firenze Card; Tue-Sun 8:15-18:50, closed Mon, last entry 30 minutes before closing; audioguide-€6, Rick Steves audio tour available—see here, Via Ricasoli 60, reservation tel. 055-294-883, polomuseale.firenze.it. To avoid long lines in peak season, get the Firenze Card or make reservations (see here).
Nearby: Piazza S.S. Annunziata, behind the Accademia, displays lovely Renaissance harmony. Facing the square are two fine buildings: the 15th-century Santissima Annunziata church (worth a peek) and Filippo Brunelleschi’s Hospital of the Innocents (Spedale degli Innocenti, not worth going inside), with terra-cotta medallions by Luca della Robbia. Built in the 1420s, the hospital is considered the first Renaissance building. I love sleeping on this square (at the recommended Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti) and picnicking here during the day (with the riffraff, who remind me of the persistent gap—today as in Renaissance times—between those who appreciate fine art and those just looking for some cheap wine).
Located one block north of the Accademia, this 15th-century monastery houses the greatest collection anywhere of frescoes and paintings by the early Renaissance master Fra Angelico. The ground floor features the monk’s paintings, along with some works by Fra Bartolomeo. Upstairs are 43 cells decorated by Fra Angelico and his assistants. While the monk/painter was trained in the medieval religious style, he also learned and adopted Renaissance techniques and sensibilities, producing works that blended Christian symbols and Renaissance realism. Don’t miss the cell of Savonarola, the charismatic monk who rode in from the Christian right, threw out the ruling Medici family, turned Florence into a theocracy, sponsored “bonfires of the vanities” (burning books, paintings, and so on), and was finally burned himself when Florence decided to change channels.
Cost and Hours: €4, covered by Firenze Card, Tue-Fri 8:15-13:50, Sat 8:15-16:50; also open 8:15-13:50 on first, third, and fifth Mon and 8:15-16:50 on second and fourth Sun of each month; last entry 30 minutes before closing, reservations possible but unnecessary, on Piazza San Marco, tel. 055-238-8608, polomuseale.firenze.it.
This unusual gem of a museum features room after room of exquisite mosaics of inlaid marble and other stones. The Medici loved colorful stone tabletops and floors; you’ll even find landscapes and portraits (find Cosimo I in Room I). Upstairs, you’ll see wooden work benches from a workshop funded by the art-patron Medici family (1588), complete with foot-powered power tools. Rockhounds can browse 500 different stones (lapis lazuli, quartz, agate, marble, and so on) and the tools used to cut and inlay them. Borrow the English descriptions in each room.
Cost and Hours: €4, covered by Firenze Card, Mon-Sat 8:15-14:00, closed Sun, last entry 30 minutes before closing, around corner from Accademia at Via degli Alfani 78, tel. 055-265-1357, opificiodellepietredure.it.
This red-brick dome—which looks like the Duomo’s little sister—marks the burial place of Giovanni di Bicci de’ Medici (1360-1429), founder of the influential Medici family. Part Sopranos, part Kennedys, part John-D-and-Catherine-T art patrons, the Medici dominated Florentine politics for 300 years (c. 1434-1737). Immeasurably wealthy from their cloth, silk, and banking businesses, the family rose to the ranks of Europe’s nobility, producing popes and queens.
Brunelleschi designed the building, and Donatello worked on the bronze pulpits inside. The Medici Chapels, with Michelangelo’s famous tomb sculptures, are part of the church complex (see listing, later).
Cost and Hours: €3.50, buy ticket just inside cloister to the left of the facade, €6 combo-ticket covers Laurentian Medici Library; Mon-Sat 10:00-17:30, Sun 13:30-17:30 March-Oct, closed Sun Nov-Feb; last entry 30 minutes before closing, on Piazza di San Lorenzo, tel. 055-214-042, operamedicealaurenziana.it.
Visiting the Church: The exterior is big, ugly, and unfinished because Pope Leo X (also a Medici) pulled the plug on the project due to dwindling funds—after Michelangelo had labored on a facade plan for four years (1516-1520). Inside, though, is the spirit of Florence in the 1420s, with gray-and-white columns and arches in perfect Renaissance symmetry and simplicity. Brunelleschi designed the church interior to receive an even, diffused light. The Medici coat of arms (a gold shield with six round balls) decorates the ceiling, and everywhere are images of St. Lawrence, the Medici patron saint who was martyred on a grill.
Highlights of the church include two finely sculpted Donatello pulpits (in the nave). In the Martelli Chapel (left wall of the left transept), Filippo Lippi’s Annunciation features a smiling angel greeting Mary in a sharply 3-D courtyard. Light shines through the vase in the foreground, like the Holy Spirit entering Mary’s womb. The Old Sacristy (far-left corner), designed by Brunelleschi, was the burial chapel for the Medici. Bronze doors by Donatello flank the sacristy’s small altar. Overhead, the dome above the altar shows the exact arrangement of the heavens on July 4, 1442, leaving scholars to hypothesize about why that particular date was used. Back in the nave, the round inlaid marble in the floor before the main altar marks where Cosimo the Elder is buried. Assistants in the church provide information on request, and the information brochure is free and in English.
Other Church Sights: Outside the church, just to the left of the main door, is a cloister with peek-a-boo Duomo views and the San Lorenzo Museum. This collection of fancy reliquaries is included in your church admission, but is hardly worth the walk, except to see Donatello’s grave. Also in the cloister is the Laurentian Medici Library (€3, €6 combo-ticket with church, generally open Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00, closed Sun, tel. 055-210-760, bmlonline.it). The library, largely designed by Michelangelo, stars his impressive staircase, which widens imperceptibly as it descends. Michelangelo also did the walls in the vestibule (entrance) that feature empty niches, scrolls, and oddly tapering pilasters. Climb the stairs and enter the Reading Room—a long, rectangular hall with a coffered-wood ceiling—designed by Michelangelo to host scholars enjoying the Medici’s collection of manuscripts.
Nearby: A street market bustles outside the church (see listing, later). Around the back end of the church is the entrance to the Medici Chapels and the New Sacristy, designed by Michelangelo for a later generation of dead Medici.
The burial site of the ruling Medici family in the Church of San Lorenzo includes the dusky Crypt; the big, domed Chapel of Princes; and the magnificent New Sacristy, featuring architecture, tombs, and statues almost entirely by Michelangelo. The Medici made their money in textiles and banking, and patronized a dream team of Renaissance artists that put Florence on the cultural map. Michelangelo, who spent his teen years living with the Medici, was commissioned to create the family’s final tribute.
Cost and Hours: €6, €9 with mandatory exhibits, covered by Firenze Card; April-Oct Tue-Sat 8:15-16:50, Nov-March Tue-Sat 8:15-13:50; also open second and fourth Mon and first, third, and fifth Sun of each month; last entry 30 minutes before closing; reservations possible but unnecessary, audioguide-€6 (€10/2 people), modest dress required, no photos, tel. 055-238-8602, polomuseale.firenze.it.
Florence’s vast open-air market has sprawled for decades around the Church of San Lorenzo. While the city undertakes some paving and transit projects, it’s been moved, at least for now, to the Piazza del Mercato Centrale, just outside the Mercato Centrale (see below). Most of the leather stalls are run by Iranians selling South American leather that was tailored in Italy. Prices are soft (daily 9:00-19:00, closed Mon in winter).
Florence’s giant iron-and-glass-covered central market, a wonderland of picturesque produce, is fun to explore. While the San Lorenzo Market—with its garment stalls in the piazza just outside—feels like a step up from a haphazard flea market, the Mercato Centrale retains a Florentine elegance. Wander around. You’ll see parts of the cow you’d never dream of eating (no, that’s not a turkey neck), enjoy generous free samples, watch pasta being made, and have your pick of plenty of fun eateries sloshing out cheap and tasty pasta to locals (Mon-Fri 7:00-14:00, Sat 7:00-17:00, closed Sun). For eating ideas in and around the market, see ”Eating in Florence,” later.
Lorenzo the Magnificent’s home is worth a look for its art. The tiny Chapel of the Magi contains colorful Renaissance gems such as the Procession of the Magi frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli. The former library has a Baroque ceiling fresco by Luca Giordano, a prolific artist from Naples known as “Fast Luke” (Luca fa presto) for his speedy workmanship. While the Medici originally occupied this 1444 house, in the 1700s it became home to the Riccardi family, who added the Baroque flourishes. While the palace is rarely mobbed, you may encounter a slight bottleneck at the Chapel of the Magi (Cappella di Gozzoli). Only 10 people are allowed in at a time, but the line moves quickly.
Cost and Hours: €7, covered by Firenze Card, Thu-Tue 9:00-18:00, closed Wed, last entry 30 minutes before closing, ticket entrance is north of the main gated entrance, videoguide-€4, no photos in Chapel of the Magi, Via Cavour 3, tel. 055-276-0340, palazzo-medici.it.
Two different-but-similar entrepreneurial establishments—Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci and Museo Leonardo da Vinci—are several blocks apart and show off reproductions of Leonardo’s ingenious inventions. Either one is fun for anyone who wants to crank the shaft and spin the ball bearings of Leonardo’s fertile imagination. While there are no actual historic artifacts, each museum shows several dozen of Leonardo’s inventions and experiments made into working models. You might see a full-size armored tank, walk into a chamber of mirrors, operate a rotating crane, or watch experiments in flying. The exhibits are described in English, and you’re encouraged to touch and play with many of the models—it’s great for kids. The Museo has larger scale models; Le Macchine has better visitor information.
Cost and Hours: Le Macchine di Leonardo da Vinci—€7, ask about discount with this book, April-Oct daily 9:30-19:30; Nov-March Mon-Fri 11:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 9:30-19:30; for €1 extra they’ll throw in a slice of pizza and a Coke, in Galleria Michelangelo at Via Cavour 21; tel. 055-295-264, macchinedileonardo.com. Museo Leonardo da Vinci—€7, ask about discount with this book, daily April-Oct 10:00-19:00, Nov-March 10:00-18:00, Via dei Servi 66 red, tel. 055-282-966, mostredileonardo.com.
The following Duomo-related sights are all covered by a single combo-ticket (€10, operaduomo.firenze.it). This ticket admits you to the Baptistery, dome, Campanile, Duomo Museum, and church crypt (the Duomo itself is free). Tickets are sold online and at the cathedral (inside), Campanile, Duomo Museum (rarely crowded), and the Centro Arte e Cultura (a few steps north of the Baptistery at Piazza di San Giovanni 7).
The Firenze Card (see here) also covers all of these sights (except the uninteresting crypt).
Florence’s Gothic cathedral has the third-longest nave in Christendom. The church’s noisy neo-Gothic facade from the 1870s is covered with pink, green, and white Tuscan marble. In the interior, you’ll see a huge Last Judgment by Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari (inside the dome). Much of the church’s great art is stored behind the church in the Duomo Museum (which is partially closed for renovation until 2015).
The cathedral’s claim to artistic fame is Brunelleschi’s magnificent dome—the first Renaissance dome and the model for domes to follow. Think of the confidence of the age: The Duomo was built with a big hole in its roof, awaiting a dome...but it was built before the technology to span the hole with a dome even existed. No problema. They knew that someone soon could rise to the challenge...and local architect Filippo Brunelleschi did. First, he built the grand white skeletal ribs, which you can see, then filled them in with interlocking bricks in a herringbone pattern. The dome grew upward like an igloo, supporting itself as it proceeded from the base. When the ribs reached the top, Brunelleschi arched them in and fixed them in place with the cupola at the top. His dome, built in only 14 years, was the largest since Rome’s Pantheon.
Massive crowds line up to see the huge church: Although it’s a major sight (and free), it’s not worth a long wait. To avoid the lines, go late, as crowds subside by late afternoon.
Cost and Hours: Cathedral interior—free; Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00, Thu until 16:00 May and Oct, until 16:30 Nov-April; Sat 10:00-16:45, Sun 13:30-16:45, audioguide-€5, free English tours offered but fill up fast, modest dress code enforced, tel. 055-230-2885, operaduomo.firenze.it.
For a grand view into the cathedral from the base of the dome, a peek at some of the tools used in the dome’s construction, a chance to see Brunelleschi’s “dome-within-a-dome” construction, a glorious Florence view from the top, and the equivalent of 463 plunges on a Renaissance StairMaster, climb the dome. The wonder of the age, Brunelleschi’s dome was the model for many domes to follow, from St. Peter’s to the US Capitol. People gave it the ultimate compliment, saying, “Not even the ancients could have done it.”
Cost and Hours: €10 ticket covers all Duomo sights, covered by Firenze Card, Mon-Fri 8:30-19:00, Sat 8:30-17:40, closed Sun, last entry 40 minutes before closing, arrive by 8:30 or drop by very late for the fewest crowds, enter from outside church on north side, tel. 055-230-2885.
The 270-foot bell tower has 50-some fewer steps than the Duomo’s dome (but that’s still 414 steps—no elevator); offers a faster, relatively less-crowded climb; and has a view of that magnificent dome to boot. On the way up, there are several intermediate levels where you can catch your breath and enjoy ever-higher views. The stairs narrow as you go up, creating a mosh-pit bottleneck near the very top—but the views are worth the hassle. While the various viewpoints are enclosed by cage-like bars, the gaps are big enough to let you snap great photos.
Cost and Hours: €10 ticket covers all Duomo sights, covered by Firenze Card, daily 8:30-19:30, last entry 40 minutes before closing.
Michelangelo said the bronze doors of this octagonal building were fit to be the gates of paradise. Check out the gleaming copies of Lorenzo Ghiberti’s bronze doors facing the Duomo (the original panels are in the Duomo Museum). Making a breakthrough in perspective, Ghiberti used mathematical laws to create the illusion of receding distance on a basically flat surface.
The doors on the north side of the building were designed by Ghiberti when he was young; he’d won the honor and opportunity by beating Brunelleschi in a competition (the rivals’ original entries are in the Bargello).
Inside, sit and savor the medieval mosaic ceiling, where it’s always Judgment Day and Jesus is giving the ultimate thumbs-up and thumbs-down.
Cost and Hours: €10 ticket covers all Duomo sights, covered by Firenze Card (get free paper ticket from ticket office), interior open Mon-Sat 11:15-19:00 except first Sat of month 8:30-14:00, Sun 8:30-14:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, audioguide-€2, photos allowed inside, tel. 055-230-2885. The (facsimile) bronze doors are on the exterior, so they are always “open” and viewable.
The underrated cathedral museum, behind the church, is great if you like sculpture. It will be partially closed for renovation through 2015, so what’s on display may change. The museum is home to many of the original creations that defined the 1400s (the Quattrocento) in Florence, when the city blossomed and classical arts were reborn (parts of the museum may be closed for renovation during your visit). On the ground floor, look for a late Michelangelo Pietà, which was intended as his sculptural epitaph, and statues from the original Baptistery facade. The museum also features Ghiberti’s original bronze “Gates of Paradise” panels (the ones on the Baptistery’s doors today are replicas). The original sculptured masterpieces that decorated the exterior of the Duomo and the Campanile are now restored and displayed safely indoors at the Duomo Museum (copies are installed on the cathedral and bell tower). Upstairs, you’ll find Brunelleschi’s models for his dome, as well as Donatello’s anorexic Mary Magdalene and his playful choir loft. Though overlooked by most visitors to Florence, this museum is a delight.
Cost and Hours: €10 ticket covers all Duomo sights, covered by Firenze Card, Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, Sun 9:00-13:45, last entry 45 minutes before closing, one of the few museums in Florence always open on Mon, audioguide-€5, guided tours-€3 summer only (schedule varies, stop by or call to ask), Via del Proconsolo 9, tel. 055-282-226 or 055-230-7885, operaduomo.firenze.it.
Nearby: If you find this church art intriguing, head to the left around the back of the Duomo to find Via dello Studio (near the south transept), then walk a block toward the river to #23a (freestanding yellow house on the right). You can look through the open doorway of the Opera del Duomo art studio and see workers sculpting new statues, restoring old ones, or making exact copies. They’re carrying on an artistic tradition that dates back to the days of Brunelleschi. The “opera” continues.
This underappreciated sculpture museum is in a former police station-turned-prison that looks like a mini-Palazzo Vecchio. The Renaissance began with sculpture—the great Florentine painters were “sculptors with brushes.” You can see the birth of this revolution of 3-D in the Bargello (bar-JEL-oh), which boasts the best collection of Florentine sculpture. It’s a small, uncrowded museum and a pleasant break from the intensity of the rest of Florence.
The Bargello has Donatello’s very influential, painfully beautiful David (the first male nude to be sculpted in a thousand years), works by Michelangelo, and rooms of Medici treasures. Moody Donatello, who embraced realism with his lifelike statues, set the personal and artistic style for many Renaissance artists to follow. The best pieces are in the ground-floor room at the foot of the outdoor staircase (with fine works by Michelangelo, Cellini, and Giambologna) and in the “Donatello room” directly above (with plenty by Donatello, including two different Davids, plus Ghiberti and Brunelleschi’s revolutionary dueling door panels and yet another David by Verrocchio).
Cost and Hours: €4, €7 with mandatory exhibits, covered by Firenze Card, Tue-Sat 8:15-13:50, until 16:50 during special exhibits (generally April-Oct); also open first, third, and fifth Mon and the second and fourth Sun of each month; last entry 30 minutes before closing, reservations possible but unnecessary, audioguide-€6 (€10/2 people), photos in courtyard only, Via del Proconsolo 4, reservation tel. 055-238-8606, polomuseale.firenze.it.
Dante Alighieri (1265-1321), the poet who gave us The Divine Comedy, is the Shakespeare of Italy, the father of the modern Italian language, and the face on the country’s €2 coin. However, most Americans know little of him, and this museum is not the ideal place to start. Even though it has English information, this small museum (in a building near where he likely lived) assumes visitors have prior knowledge of the poet. It’s not a medieval-flavored house with period furniture—it’s just a small, low-tech museum about Dante. Still, Dante lovers can trace his interesting life and works through pictures, models, and artifacts. And because the exhibits are as much about medieval Florence as they are about the man, novices can learn a little about the city Dante lived in.
Cost and Hours: €4, covered by Firenze Card, April-Sept daily 10:00-18:00; Oct-March Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; last entry 30 minutes before closing, near the Bargello at Via Santa Margherita 1, tel. 055-219-416, museocasadidante.it.
In the ninth century, this loggia (covered courtyard) was a market used for selling grain (stored upstairs). Later, it was enclosed to make a church.
Outside are dynamic, statue-filled niches, some with accompanying symbols from the guilds that sponsored the art. Donatello’s St. Mark and St. George (on the northeast and northwest corners) step out boldly in the new Renaissance style.
The interior has a glorious Gothic tabernacle (1359), which houses the painted wooden panel that depicts Madonna delle Grazie (1346). The iron bars spanning the vaults were the Italian Gothic answer to the French Gothic external buttresses. Look for the rectangular holes in the piers—these were once wheat chutes that connected to the upper floors. The museum upstairs (limited hours) displays most of the originals from the niches outside the building, by Ghiberti, Donatello, Brunelleschi, and others.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-17:00 (except closed Mon in Aug), free upstairs museum open only Mon, niche sculptures always viewable from the outside. You can give the Madonna della Grazie a special thanks if you’re in town when an evening concert is held inside the Orsanmichele (tickets sold on day of concert from door facing Via de’ Calzaiuoli; also books Uffizi and Accademia tickets, ticket window open daily 10:00-17:00).
This market loggia is how Orsanmichele looked before it became a church. Originally a silk and straw market, Mercato Nuovo still functions as a rustic yet touristy market (at the intersection of Via Calimala and Via Porta Rossa). Prices are soft, but the San Lorenzo Market (listed earlier) is much better for haggling. Notice the circled X in the center, marking the spot where people hit the ground after being hoisted up to the top and dropped as punishment for bankruptcy. You’ll also find Il Porcellino (a statue of a wild boar nicknamed “The Piglet”), which people rub and give coins to ensure their return to Florence. This new copy, while only a few years old, already has a polished snout. At the back corner, a wagon sells tripe (cow innards) sandwiches—a local favorite (daily 9:00-20:00).
This five-story, late-medieval tower house offers a rare look at a noble dwelling built in the 14th century. Only the ground-floor loggia and first floor are open to visitors, though the remaining floors (more living quarters and the kitchen) can be visited with an escort (usually at 10:00, 11:00, and 12:00; call ahead to be sure there’s space or ask when you arrive). Like other buildings of the age, the exterior is festooned with 14th-century horse-tethering rings made from iron, torch holders, and poles upon which to hang laundry and fly flags. Inside, though the furnishings are pretty sparse, you’ll see richly painted walls, a long chute that functioned as a well, plenty of fireplaces, a lace display, and even an indoor “outhouse.” While there’s little posted information, you can borrow English descriptions in each room.
Cost and Hours: €2, covered by Firenze Card, Tue-Sat 8:15-13:50; also open first, third, and fifth Sun and second and fourth Mon of each month; Via Porta Rossa 13, tel. 055-238-8610.
This large square sits on the site of the original Roman Forum. Florence was a riverside garrison town set below the older town of Fiesole—essentially a rectangular fort with the square marking the intersection of the two main roads (Via Corso and Via Roma). The square’s lone column—nicknamed the “belly button of Florence”—once marked the intersection (the Roman streets were about nine feet below the present street level). Above ground, all that survives of Roman Florence is this column and the city’s street plan. But beneath the stones lie the remains of the ancient city. Look at any map of Florence today, and you’ll see the ghost of Rome in its streets: a grid-plan city center surrounded by what was the Roman wall. The Braille model of the city (in front of the Paszkowski café) makes the design clear.
Venerable cafés and stores line the square. During the 19th century, intellectuals met in cafés here. Gilli, on the northeast corner, is a favorite for its grand atmosphere and tasty sweets (cheap if you stand at the bar, expensive to sit down) while the recommended Paszkowski has good lunch options (see here). The department store La Rinascente, facing Piazza della Repubblica, is one of the city’s mainstays (WC on fourth floor, continue up the stairs from there to the bar with a rooftop terrace for great Duomo and city views).
The former home of the wealthy Strozzi family, great rivals of the Medici, offers a textbook example of a Renaissance palace (built between 1489 and 1538). Peek into its grand courtyard and imagine how well-to-do families competed to commission grandiose structures (and artistic masterpieces) to promote their status and wealth. Today it hosts top-notch special exhibitions, usually uncrowded and well described in English.
Cost and Hours: Free entry to courtyard and café, both open daily 8:30-20:00; gallery—€12.50, price and hours can change with exhibits, but often daily 9:00-20:00, Thu until 23:00, last entry one hour before closing, discounts with train or bus tickets; just west of Piazza della Repubblica at Piazza Strozzi, tel. 055-264-5155, palazzostrozzi.org.
The main civic center of Florence is dominated by the Palazzo Vecchio, Uffizi Gallery, and marble greatness of old Florence littering the cobbles. Piazza della Signoria still vibrates with the echoes of the city’s past—executions, riots, and great celebrations. Today, it’s a tourist’s world with pigeons, postcards, horse buggies, and tired hubbies. If it would make your weary companion happy, stop in at the recommended but expensive Rivoire café to enjoy its fine desserts, pudding-thick hot chocolate, and the best view seats in town. It’s expensive—but if you linger, it can be a great value.
This greatest collection of Italian paintings anywhere features works by Giotto, Leonardo, Raphael, Caravaggio, Titian, and Michelangelo, and a roomful of Botticellis, including the Birth of Venus. Northern Renaissance masters (Dürer, Rembrandt, and Rubens) are also well represented.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, €11 with mandatory special exhibits, extra €4 for recommended reservation, cash required to pick up tickets reserved by phone, covered by Firenze Card, Tue-Sun 8:15-18:35, closed Mon, last entry 30 minutes before closing, audioguide-€6, free Rick Steves audio tour available—see here, museum info tel. 055-238-8651, reservation tel. 055-294-883, uffizi.firenze.it. To avoid the long ticket lines, get a Firenze Card (see here) or make reservations (see here).
Avoiding Lines: To skip the notoriously long ticket-buying lines, either get a Firenze Card or reserve ahead (for details on both, see here and here). During summer and on weekends, the Uffizi can be booked up a month or more in advance. Without a Firenze Card or reservation, you can usually enter without major lines from November through March after 16:00. But in peak season (April-Oct) and on weekends, the wait can be hours, and it can be crowded even late in the day. The busiest days are Tuesday, Saturday, and Sunday.
Getting In: There are several entrances. Which one you use depends on whether you have a Firenze Card, a reservation, or neither.
Firenze Card holders enter at door #1 (labeled Reservation Entrance), close to the Palazzo Vecchio. Get in the line for individuals, not groups.
People buying a ticket on the spot line up with everyone else at door #2. (The wait can be hours long.)
To buy a Firenze Card, or to see if there are any same-day reservations available (€4 extra, but could save you time in the ticket line), enter door #2 to the left of the ticket-buying line (marked Booking Service and Today).
If you’ve already made a reservation and need to pick up your ticket, go to door #3 (labeled Reservation Ticket Office, across the courtyard from doors #1 and #2). Tickets are available for pick-up 10 minutes before your appointed time. If you booked online and have already prepaid, you’ll just exchange your voucher for a ticket. If you (or your hotelier) booked by phone, give them your confirmation number and pay for the ticket (cash only). Once you have your ticket, walk briskly past the 200-yard-long ticket-buying line—pondering the IQ of this gang—to door #1. Show your ticket and walk in.
Audioguides: A 1.5-hour audioguide costs €6 (€10/2 people; must leave ID). You can also download this chapter as a free Rick Steves audio tour (see here).
Renovation: The Uffizi is undergoing a massive, years-long renovation that may affect your visit. Some of the artworks may be displayed in different rooms, on loan to other museums, or out for restoration—pick up a floor plan as you enter, and if you need help finding a particular piece of art, ask the guards in each room.
Visiting the Museum: The museum is not nearly as big as it is great. Few tourists spend more than two hours inside. Most of the paintings are displayed on one comfortable, U-shaped floor in chronological order from the 13th through 17th centuries. The left wing, starring the Florentine Middle Ages to the Renaissance, is the best. The connecting corridor contains sculpture, and the right wing focuses on the High Renaissance and Baroque.
Medieval (1200-1400): Paintings by Duccio, Cimabue, and Giotto show the baby steps being made from the flat Byzantine style toward realism. In his Madonna and Child with Angels, Giotto created a “stage” and peopled it with real beings. The triumph here is Mary herself—big and monumental, like a Roman statue. Beneath her robe, she has knees and breasts that stick out at us. This three-dimensionality was revolutionary, a taste of the Renaissance a century before it began.
Early Renaissance (mid-1400s): Paolo Uccello’s Battle of San Romano is an early study in perspective with a few obvious flubs. Piero della Francesca’s Federico da Montefeltro and Battista Sforza heralds the era of humanism and the new centrality of ordinary people in art, warts and all. Fra Filippo Lippi’s radiantly beautiful Madonnas are light years away from the generic Marys of the medieval era.
Renaissance (1450-1500): The Botticelli room is filled with masterpieces and classical fleshiness (the famous Birth of Venus and Allegory of Spring), plus two minor works by Leonardo da Vinci. Here is the Renaissance in its first bloom, its “springtime” of innocence. Madonna is out, Venus is in. This is a return to the pre-Christian pagan world of classical Greece, where things of the flesh are not sinful.
Classical Sculpture: If the Renaissance was the foundation of the modern world, the foundation of the Renaissance was classical sculpture. Sculptors, painters, and poets alike turned for inspiration to ancient Greek and Roman works as the epitome of balance, 3-D perspective, human anatomy, and beauty.
In the octagonal classical sculpture room, the highlight is the Venus de’ Medici, a Roman copy of the lost original of the great Greek sculptor Praxiteles’ Aphrodite. Balanced, harmonious, and serene, this statue was considered the epitome of beauty and sexuality in Renaissance Florence.
The sculpture hall has the best view in Florence of the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio through the window, dreamy at sunset.
High Renaissance (1500-1550): Don’t miss Michelangelo’s Holy Family, the only surviving completed easel painting by the greatest sculptor in history; Raphael’s Madonna of the Goldfinch, with Mary and the Baby Jesus brought down from heaven into the real world of trees, water, and sky; and Titian’s voluptuous Venus of Urbino.
Wrap up your visit by enjoying Duomo views from the café terrace. The lower floor contains temporary exhibitions and works by Caravaggio and foreign painters.
In the Uffizi’s Courtyard: Enjoy the courtyard (free), full of artists and souvenir stalls. (Swing by after dinner when it’s completely empty.) The surrounding statues honor earthshaking Florentines: artists (Michelangelo); philosophers (Niccolò Machiavelli); scientists (Galileo); writers (Dante); cartographers (Amerigo Vespucci); and the great patron of so much Renaissance thinking, Lorenzo “the Magnificent” de’ Medici.
Nearby: The Loggia dei Lanzi, across from the Palazzo Vecchio and facing the square, is where Renaissance Florentines once debated the issues of the day; a collection of Medici-approved sculptures, including Cellini’s bronze Perseus, now stands (or writhes) under its canopy.
This castle-like fortress with the 300-foot spire dominates Florence’s main square. In Renaissance times, it was the Town Hall, where citizens pioneered the once-radical notion of self-rule. Its official name—the Palazzo della Signoria—refers to the elected members of the city council. In 1540, the tyrant Cosimo I de’ Medici made the building his personal palace, redecorating the interior in lavish style. Today the building functions once again as the Town Hall.
Entry to the ground-floor courtyard is free, so even if you don’t go upstairs to the museum, you can step inside and feel the essence of the Medici. Paying customers can see Cosimo’s (fairly) lavish royal apartments, decorated with (fairly) top-notch paintings and statues by Michelangelo and Donatello. The highlight is the Grand Hall (Salone dei Cinquecento), a 13,000-square-foot hall lined with huge frescoes and interesting statues.
Cost and Hours: Courtyard–free to enter, museum–€6.50, tower climb-€6.50 (418 steps), museum plus tower-€10, museum and tower covered by Firenze Card (first pick up ticket at ground-floor information desk before entering museum); Fri-Wed 9:00-19:00, until 24:00 April-Sept, Thu 9:00-14:00 year-round; tower keeps similar but shorter hours, ticket office closes one hour earlier, videoguide-€5, English tours available, Piazza della Signoria, tel. 055-276-8224, museicivicifiorentini.it.
Nighttime Terrace Visits: In summer you can join an escort for an unnarrated walk along the “patrol path”—the balcony that runs just below the crenellated top of the building (€2 plus regular admission ticket, every 30 minutes between 21:00 and 23:00, no tours Oct-March). Note that this tour doesn’t go to the top of the tower, but just to the top of the main building.
Florence’s most famous bridge has long been lined with shops. Originally these were butcher shops that used the river as a handy disposal system. Then, when the powerful and princely Medici built the Vasari Corridor (described next) over the bridge, the stinky meat market was replaced by the more elegant gold and silver shops that remain there to this day. A statue of Benvenuto Cellini, the master goldsmith of the Renaissance, stands in the center, ignored by the flood of tacky tourism. This is a very romantic spot late at night (when lovers gather, and a top-notch street musician performs).
This elevated and enclosed passageway, constructed in 1565, gave the Medici a safe, private commute over Ponte Vecchio from their Pitti Palace home to their Palazzo Vecchio offices. It’s open only by special appointment, and though enticing to lovers of Florence, the actual tour experience isn’t much. Entering from inside the Uffizi Gallery, you walk along a modern-feeling hall (wide enough to carry a Medici on a sedan chair) across Ponte Vecchio, and end in the Pitti Palace. Half the corridor is lined with Europe’s best collection of self-portraits, along with other paintings (mostly 17th- and 18th-century) that seem like they didn’t make the cut to be hung on the walls of the Uffizi. The best way to get inside the corridor is to go with a tour company such as Florencetown (€85, Tue-Sun at 15:30, tel. 055-012-3994, florencetown.com) or ArtViva (€84, Tue and Sat at 13:30, tel. 055-264-5033, artviva.com). The three-hour tours include a tour of the Uffizi.
When we think of the Florentine Renaissance, we think of visual arts: painting, mosaics, architecture, and sculpture. But when the visual arts declined in the 1600s (abused and co-opted by political powers), music and science flourished in Florence. The first opera was written here. And Florence hosted many scientific breakthroughs, as you’ll see in this fascinating collection of Renaissance and later clocks, telescopes, maps, and ingenious gadgets. Trace the technical innovations as modern science emerges from 1000 to 1900. Some of the most talked-about bottles in Florence are the ones here that contain Galileo’s fingers. Exhibits include various tools for gauging the world, from a compass and thermometer to Galileo’s telescopes. Other displays delve into clocks, pumps, medicine, and chemistry. It’s friendly, comfortably cool, never crowded, and just a block east of the Uffizi on the Arno River.
Cost and Hours: €9, €22 family ticket, cash only, covered by Firenze Card, Wed-Mon 9:30-18:00, Tue 9:30-13:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, Piazza dei Giudici 1, tel. 055-265-311, museogalileo.it.
Tours: The €5 audioguide is well-produced and offers both a highlights tour as well as dial-up info (with video) on each exhibit. The 1.5-hour English-language guided tour covers the collection plus behind-the-scenes areas, and includes hands-on demonstrations of some of the devices (€50 flat fee for 2-14 people, cash only, doesn’t include museum entry, book at least a week in advance, great for kids, tel. 055-234-3723, groups@museogalileo.it).
This 14th-century Franciscan church, decorated with centuries of precious art, holds the tombs of great Florentines. The loud 19th-century Victorian Gothic facade faces a huge square ringed with tempting shops and littered with tired tourists. Escape into the church and admire its sheer height and spaciousness.
Cost and Hours: €6, €8.50 combo-ticket with Casa Buonarroti, covered by Firenze Card, Mon-Sat 9:30-17:30, Sun 14:00-17:30, last entry 30 minutes before closing, audioguide-€5 (€8/2 people), modest dress required, 10-minute walk east of Palazzo Vecchio along Borgo de’ Greci, tel. 055-246-6105, santacroceopera.it. The leather school is free and sells church tickets—handy when the church has a long line (daily 10:00-18:00, closed Sun in fall/winter, has own entry behind church plus an entry within the church, scuoladelcuoio.com).
Visiting the Church: On the left wall (as you face the altar) is the tomb of Galileo Galilei (1564-1642), the Pisan who lived his last years under house arrest near Florence. His crime? Defying the Church by saying that the earth revolved around the sun. His heretical remains were only allowed in the church long after his death.
Directly opposite (on the right wall) is the tomb of Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475-1564). Santa Croce was Michelangelo’s childhood church, as he grew up a block west of here. Farther up the nave is the tomb of Niccolò Machiavelli (1469-1527), a champion of democratic Florence and author of The Prince, a how-to manual on hardball politics.
The first chapel to the right of the main altar features the famous Death of St. Francis fresco by Giotto. With simple but eloquent gestures, Francis’ brothers bid him a sad farewell. In the hallway near the bookstore, notice the photos of the devastating flood of 1966. Beyond that is the leather school (free entry).
Exit between the Rossini and Machiavelli tombs into the delightful cloister (open-air courtyard). On the left, enter Brunelleschi’s Pazzi Chapel, which captures the Renaissance in miniature.
Fans enjoy a house standing on property once owned by Michelangelo. The house was built after Michelangelo’s death by the artist’s grand-nephew, who turned it into a little museum honoring his famous relative. You’ll see some of Michelangelo’s early, less-than-monumental statues and a few sketches. Be warned: Michelangelo’s descendants sold off many of the drawings by their famous relative; only a few sketches and sculptures here are actually by Michelangelo.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, €8.50 combo-ticket with Santa Croce Church, covered by Firenze Card, Wed-Mon 10:00-17:00, closed Tue, English descriptions, Via Ghibellina 70, tel. 055-241-752, casabuonarroti.it.
This 13th-century Dominican church is rich in art. Along with crucifixes by Giotto and Brunelleschi, it contains every textbook’s example of the early Renaissance mastery of perspective: The Trinity by Masaccio. The exquisite chapels trace art in Florence from medieval times to early Baroque. The outside of the church features a dash of Romanesque (horizontal stripes), Gothic (pointed arches), Renaissance (geometric shapes), and Baroque (scrolls). Step in and look down the 330-foot nave for a 14th-century optical illusion.
Next to the church are the cloisters and the museum, located in the old Dominican convent of Santa Maria Novella. The museum’s highlight is the breathtaking Spanish Chapel, with walls covered by a series of frescos by Andrea di Bonaiuto.
Cost and Hours: Church and museum—€5, covered by Firenze Card, Mon-Thu 9:00-17:30, Fri 11:00-17:30, Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 12:00-17:00 July-Sept (from 13:00 Oct-June), last entry 45 minutes before closing, audioguide-€5 (€8/2 people), modest dress required, no photos, main entrance on Piazza Santa Maria Novella, Firenze Card holders must enter behind the church at Piazza della Stazione 4, tel. 055-219-257, museicivicifiorentini.it or chiesasantamarianovella.it.
This palatial perfumery has long been run by the Dominicans of Santa Maria Novella. Thick with the lingering aroma of centuries of spritzes, it started as the herb garden of the Santa Maria Novella monks. Well-known even today for its top-quality products, it is extremely Florentine. Pick up the history sheet from the rack, and wander deep into the shop. The main sales room, where you can sample various cosmetics and perfumes, was originally a chapel; the middle (green) room offers items for the home; and the historic third room, which sells herbal products, is where the pharmacy was originally established in 1612. From here, you can peek at one of Santa Maria Novella’s cloisters with its dreamy frescoes and imagine a time before Vespas and tourists.
Cost and Hours: Free but shopping encouraged, inconsistent hours but daily likely from 9:30 or 10:30 until 19:30, a block from Piazza Santa Maria Novella, 100 yards down Via della Scala at #16—see map on here, tel. 055-216-276, smnovella.com.
To locate these sights, see the map on here.
The imposing Pitti Palace, several blocks southwest of Ponte Vecchio, is not only home to the second-best collection of paintings in town, the Palatine Gallery, but also happens to be the most sumptuous palace you can tour in Florence. The building itself is mammoth, holding several different museums and anchoring two gardens. Stick primarily to the gallery, forget about everything else, and the palace becomes a little less exhausting.
You can’t buy a ticket for the gallery alone; to see it you’ll need to buy ticket #1, which includes the Palatine Gallery, Royal Apartments, and Gallery of Modern Art. Ticket #2 covers the Boboli and Bardini Gardens, Costume Gallery, Argenti/Silverworks Museum, and Porcelain Museum. Behind door #3 is a combo-ticket covering the whole shebang.
Cost and Hours: Ticket #1—€8.50 (€13 with special exhibitions), Tue-Sun 8:15-18:50, closed Mon, last entry one hour before closing. Ticket #2—€7 (€10 with special exhibitions), daily June-Aug 8:15-19:30, April-May and Sept 8:15-18:30, March and Oct 8:15-17:30, Nov-Feb 8:15-16:30, closed first and last Mon of each month, last entry one hour before closing. Ticket #3—€11.50, valid 3 days, usually not available during special exhibitions. Reservations are possible but unnecessary, and everything is covered by the Firenze Card. The €6 audioguide (€10/2 people) explains the sprawling palace. No photos are allowed in the Palatine Gallery. Tel. 055-238-8614, polomuseale.firenze.it.
Getting In: If there’s a long line, bypass it by making a €3 “reservation” on the spot for immediate entry (just march up to the head of the line and go to window 3 on the right, marked reservation desk). Once you have your ticket, enter through the main doorway in the center of the facade. Firenze Card holders should go directly to the main entrance (where you may be ushered to the head of the security checkpoint); then go to the bookstore on the left side of the courtyard to have your card swiped and get your tickets.
Visiting the Palace: You’ll walk through one palatial room after another, walls sagging with masterpieces by 16th- and 17th-century masters, including Rubens, Titian, and Rembrandt. Its Raphael collection is the second-biggest anywhere—the Vatican beats it by one. Each room has some descriptions in English, though the paintings themselves have limited English labels.
The collection is all on one floor. To see the highlights, walk straight down the spine through a dozen or so rooms. Before you exit, consider a visit to the Royal Apartments. These 14 rooms (of which only a few are open at any one time) are where Florence’s aristocrats lived in the 18th and 19th centuries. Each room features a different color and time period. Here, you get a real feel for the splendor of the dukes’ world.
The rest of the Pitti Palace is skippable, unless the various sights match your interests: the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor, features Romantic, Neoclassical, and Impressionist works by 19th- and 20th-century Tuscan painters), Argenti/Silverworks Museum (on the ground and mezzanine floors; displays Medici treasures from jeweled crucifixes to gilded ostrich eggs), Costume Gallery, Porcelain Museum, and Boboli and Bardini gardens (behind the palace; enter from Pitti Palace courtyard—be prepared to climb uphill).
For the best look at works by Masaccio (one of the early Renaissance pioneers of perspective in painting), see his restored frescoes here. Instead of medieval religious symbols, Masaccio’s paintings feature simple, strong human figures with facial expressions that reflect their emotions. The accompanying works of Masolino and Filippino Lippi provide illuminating contrasts.
Your ticket includes a 20-minute film in English on the chapel, the frescoes, and Renaissance Florence. (If the film’s not showing, consider the €1 videoguide.) Computer animation brings the paintings to 3-D life—they appear to move—while narration describes the events depicted in the panels. The film takes liberties with the art, but it’s visually interesting and your best way to see the frescoes close up.
Cost and Hours: €6, cash only, covered by Firenze Card; free and easy reservations required if you don’t have a Firenze Card (see next); Mon and Wed-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 13:00-17:00, closed Tue, last entry 30 minutes before closing; free 20-minute film, videoguide-€1, knees and shoulders must be covered; in Church of Santa Maria del Carmine, on Piazza del Carmine in the Oltrarno neighborhood; reservations tel. 055-276-8224 or 055-276-8558, ticket desk tel. 055-284-361, museicivicifiorentini.it.
Reservations: Although reservations are required, on weekdays and any day off-season, it’s often possible to walk right up and get an entry time, especially if you come before 15:30. To reserve in advance, call the chapel a day ahead (tel. 055-276-8224 or 055-276-8558, English spoken, call center open Mon-Sat 9:30-13:00 & 14:00-17:00, Sun 9:30-12:30). You can also try via email—info.museoragazzi@comune.fi.it.
This church has a classic Brunelleschi interior—enjoy its pure Renaissance lines (and ignore the later Baroque altar that replaced the original). Notice Brunelleschi’s “dice”—the stone cubes added above the column capitals that contribute to the nave’s playful lightness. The church’s art treasure is a painted, carved wooden crucifix attributed to 17-year-old Michelangelo. The sculptor donated this early work to the monastery in appreciation for allowing him to dissect and learn about bodies. The Michelangelo Crocifisso is displayed in the sacristy, through a door midway down the left side of the nave (if it’s closed, ask someone to let you in). Copies of Michelangelo’s Pietà and Risen Christ flank the nave (near the main door). Beer-drinking, guitar-playing rowdies decorate the church steps.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 16:00-17:30, Sun 16:00-17:30 only, closed Wed, Piazza di Santo Spirito, tel. 055-210-030, basilicasantospirito.it.
Overlooking the city from across the river (look for the huge bronze statue of David), this square has a superb view of Florence and the stunning dome of the Duomo.
It’s worth the 30-minute hike, drive (free parking), or bus ride (either #12 or #13 from the southeast corner of the train station, between the pine trees and the bikes—takes 20-30 minutes, longer in bad traffic). It makes sense to take a taxi or ride the bus up and then enjoy the easy downhill walk back into town. An inviting café (open seasonally) with great views is just below the overlook. The best photos are taken from the street immediately below the overlook (go around to the right and down a few steps). Off the west side of the piazza is a somewhat hidden terrace, an excellent place to retreat from the mobs. After dark, the square is packed with school kids licking ice cream and each other. About 200 yards beyond all the tour groups and teenagers is the stark, beautiful, crowd-free, Romanesque San Miniato Church (next listing). A WC is located just off the road, halfway between the two sights.
The hike down is quick and enjoyable. Take the steps between the two bars on the San Miniato Church side of the parking lot (Via San Salvatore al Monte). At the first landing (marked #3), peek into the rose garden (Giardino delle Rose). After a few minutes, you’ll walk through the old wall (Porta San Miniato) and emerge in the delightful little Oltrarno neighborhood of San Niccolò.
According to legend, the martyred St. Minias—this church’s namesake—was beheaded on the banks of the Arno in A.D. 250. He picked up his head and walked here (this was before the #12 bus), where he died and was buried in what became the first Christian cemetery in Florence. In the 11th century, this church was built to house Minias’ remains. The church’s green-and-white marble facade (12th century) is classic Florentine Romanesque, one of the oldest in town. Inside you’ll find some wonderful 3-D paintings, a plush ceiling of glazed terra-cotta panels by Luca della Robbia, and an exquisite Renaissance chapel (on the left side of the nave). The highlight for me is the brilliantly preserved art in the sacristy (upstairs to right of altar, in the room on right) showing scenes from the life of St. Benedict (circa 1350, by a follower of Giotto). Drop €2 into the electronic panel in the corner to light the room for five minutes. The evening vesper service with the monks chanting in Latin offers a meditative worship experience—a peaceful way to end your visit.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily Easter-mid-Oct 8:00-20:00, in winter 8:30-13:00 & 15:30-19:00, closed sporadically for special occasions, tel. 055-234-2731, sanminiatoalmonte.it.
Getting There: It’s about 200 yards above Piazzale Michelangelo. From the station, bus #12 takes you right to the San Miniato al Monte stop (hop off and hike up the grand staircase); bus #13 from the station takes you to Piazzale Michelangelo, from which you’ll hike up the rest of the way.
Gregorian Chants: To experience this mystical medieval space at its full potential, time your visit to coincide with a prayer service of Gregorian chants. In general, these are held each evening at 18:30 and last 30 minutes—but as the schedule is subject to change, double-check with any TI, the church’s website, or call ahead.
Competition among Florence’s hotels is stiff. When things slow down, fancy hotels drop their prices and become a much better value for travelers than the cheap, low-end places. Nearly all of my recommended accommodations are located in the center of Florence, within minutes of the great sights. If arriving by train, you can either walk (usually around 10 minutes) or take a taxi (roughly €8-12) to reach most of my recommended accommodations, as buses don’t cover the city center very well.
Florence is notorious for its mosquitoes. If your hotel lacks air-conditioning, request a fan and don’t open your windows, especially at night. Many hotels furnish a small plug-in bulb (zanzariere)—usually set in the ashtray—that helps keep the blood-suckers at bay. If not, you can purchase one cheaply at any pharmacy (farmacia).
Museumgoers take note: If you don’t plan to get a Firenze Card (see here), you may want to ask if your hotelier will reserve entry times for you to visit the popular Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia (Michelangelo’s David). Request this service when you book your room; it’s fast, easy, and offered free or for a small fee by most hotels—the only requirement is advance notice. Ask them to reserve your visits for any time the day after your arrival. If you’d rather make the reservations yourself, see here for details.
All of these places are within a block of Florence’s biggest church and main landmark.
$$$ Palazzo Niccolini al Duomo, one of five elite Historic Residence Hotels in Florence, is run by Niccolini da Camugliano. The lounge (where free chamomile tea is served in the evenings) is palatial, but the 12 rooms, while splendid, vary wildly in size. If you have the money and want a Florentine palace to call home, this can be a good bet (Db-€150-€500 depending on type of room, ask for Rick Steves discount when you book, check online to choose a room and consider last-minute deals, elevator, air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Servi 2, tel. 055-282-412, niccolinidomepalace.com, info@niccolinidomepalace.com).
$$$ Hotel Duomo, big and venerable, rents 24 slightly overpriced rooms four floors up. The Duomo looms like a monster outside the hotel’s windows; most (but not all) rooms come with views. The rooms are modern and comfortable enough, but you’re paying for the location (Sb-€100, Db-€190, Tb-€230, ask about discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Piazza del Duomo 1, tel. 055-219-922, hotelduomofirenze.it, info@hotelduomofirenze.it; Paolo and Gilvaneide).
$$ Residenza dei Pucci rents 12 pleasant rooms (each one different) spread over three floors. The decor, a mix of soothing earth tones and aristocratic furniture, makes this place feel upscale for this price range (Sb-€135, Db-€150, Tb-€170, Qb suite-€238, ask about discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, reception open 9:00-20:00, shorter hours off-season—let them know if you’ll arrive late, Via dei Pucci 9, tel. 055-281-886, residenzadeipucci.com, info@residenzadeipucci.com, friendly Mirella and Marina).
$$ Soggiorno Battistero rents seven simple, airy rooms, most with great views, overlooking the Baptistery and the Duomo square. Choose a view or a quieter room in the back when you book by email, but keep in mind there’s always some noise in the city center. It’s a pristine and minimalist place run by Italian Luca and his American wife Kelly, who makes the hotel particularly welcoming (Sb-€83, Db-€110, Tb-€145, Qb-€155, ask about discount if you book direct and pay cash, breakfast served in room, air-con available June-Aug, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Piazza San Giovanni 1, third floor, tel. 055-295-143, soggiornobattistero.it, info@soggiornobattistero.it).
$$ Residenza Giotto B&B offers the chance to stay on Florence’s upscale shopping drag, Via Roma. Occupying the top floor of a 19th-century building, this place has six bright, smallish rooms and a terrace with knockout views of the Duomo’s tower. Reception is generally open 9:00-17:00; let them know your arrival time in advance (Sb-€90, Db-€130, view rooms-€10 extra, extra bed-€25, ask about discount if you book direct and pay cash, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via Roma 6, tel. 055-214-593, residenzagiotto.it, info@residenzagiotto.it, Giorgio).
$$ La Residenza del Proconsolo B&B, run by helpful Mariano, has five older-feeling rooms a minute from the Duomo (three rooms have Duomo views). The place lacks public spaces, but the rooms are quite large and nice—perfect for eating breakfast, which is served in your room (Sb-€90, Db-€120, Tb-€140, slightly larger “deluxe” with view-€20 more, air-con, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via del Proconsolo 18 black, tel. 055-264-5657, mobile 335-657-4840, proconsolo.com, info@proconsolo.com).
After dark, this neighborhood can feel a little deserted, but I’ve never heard of anyone running into harm here. It’s a short walk from the train station and an easy stroll to all the sightseeing action. While workaday, it’s practical, with plenty of good budget restaurants and markets nearby.
$$ Grand Tour Firenze has six charming rooms on a nondescript street between the train station and the Accademia. This cozy B&B will make you feel right at home; it’s thoughtfully appointed and the owners, Cristina and Giuseppe, live there. The delightful and spacious suites come with a garden ambience on the ground floor (Db-€115, suite-€130, ask for discount if you book direct and pay cash, includes breakfast voucher for the corner bar—or skip it to save €7/person, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via Santa Reparata 21, tel. 055-283-955, florencegrandtour.com, info@florencegrandtour.com). They run another more romantic, pricier place a couple of blocks away.
$$ Galileo Hotel, a classy business hotel with 31 rooms on a chaotic and congested street, is run with familial warmth (Sb-€100, Db-€130, Tb-€160, Qb-€190, ask for Rick Steves discount when you book direct and pay cash, quadruple-paned windows effectively shut out street noise, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Nazionale 22a, tel. 055-496-645, galileohotel.it, info@galileohotel.it).
$ Hotel Il Bargellino, run by Bostonian Carmel and her Italian husband Pino, is in a residential neighborhood, still within walking distance of the center. They rent 10 summery rooms decorated with funky antiques and Pino’s modern paintings. Guests enjoy Leopoldo, the parrot, and relaxing on the big, breezy, momentum-slowing terrace adorned with plants and lemon shrubs (S-€45, D-€80, Db-€90, €5-10 more for room facing terrace, book direct and ask for the Rick Steves rate, extra bed-€25, no breakfast, free Wi-Fi, north of the train station at Via Guelfa 87, tel. 055-238-2658, ilbargellino.com, carmel@ilbargellino.com).
$ Casa Rabatti is the ultimate if you always wanted to have a Florentine mama. Its four simple, clean rooms are run with warmth by Marcella. This is a great place to practice your Italian, as Marcella loves to chat and speaks minimal English. Seeing nearly two decades of my family Christmas cards on their walls, I’m reminded of how long she has been keeping budget travelers happy (D-€50, Db-€60, €25 extra per bed in shared quad or quint, show this book and ask for best Rick Steves price, cash only but secure reservation with credit card, no breakfast, fans available, free Wi-Fi, 5 blocks from station at Via San Zanobi 48 black, tel. 055-212-393, casarabatti@inwind.it).
$ Hotel Enza rents 18 straightforward rooms, some recently renovated. The prices are reasonable for predictable hotel comfort (Sb-€55, Db-€80, Tb-€100, show this book and ask for best Rick Steves price, no breakfast, air-con, no elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via San Zanobi 45 black, tel. 055-490-990, hotelenza.it, info@hotelenza.it, Diana).
$$$ Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, at the most prestigious address in Florence on the most Renaissance square in town, gives you Old World romance with hair dryers. Stone stairways lead you under open-beam ceilings through this 16th-century monastery’s monumental public rooms—it’s so artful, you’ll be snapping photos everywhere. The 38 cells—with air-conditioning, TVs, mini-bars, free Wi-Fi, and telephones—would be unrecognizable to their original inhabitants. The hotel staff is both professional and warm (Sb-€120, Db-€160, superior Db-€190, family suites from €280, ask for Rick Steves rate when you book, elevator, valet parking-€21/day, Piazza S.S. Annunziata 3, tel. 055-289-592, loggiatodeiservitihotel.it, info@loggiatodeiservitihotel.it; Simonetta, Gianni, and two Chiaras). When full, they rent five spacious and sophisticated rooms in a 17th-century annex a block away. While it lacks the monastic mystique, the annex rooms are bigger, gorgeous, and cost the same.
$$$ Hotel dei Macchiaioli offers 15 fresh and spacious rooms on one high-ceilinged, noble floor in a restored palazzo owned for generations by a well-to-do Florentine family. You’ll eat breakfast under original frescoed ceilings while enjoying modern comforts (Sb-€100, Db-€180, Tb-€220, ask about Rick Steves discount if you book direct and pay cash, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 21, tel. 055-213-154, hoteldeimacchiaioli.com, info@hoteldeimacchiaioli.com, helpful Francesca and Paolo).
$$ Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta, a former convent, envelops you in a 16th-century cocoon. Located on a quiet street with 12 rooms, period furnishings, parquet floors, and wood-beamed or painted ceilings, it takes you back a few centuries and up a few social classes (Sb-€105, Db-€155, Tb-€185, Qb-€199, air-con, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, a block off Piazza S.S. Annunziata at Via Laura 50, tel. 055-234-4747, hotelmorandi.it, welcome@hotelmorandi.it, well-run by Maurizio, Rolando, and Ertol).
$$ Hotel Europa, family run since 1970, has a welcoming atmosphere fostered by cheery Miriam, Roberto, and daughters Priscilla and Isabel. The breakfast room is spacious, and some of the 20 rooms have views of the Duomo (Sb-€89, Db-€150, Tb-€180, Qb-€250, slightly more for bigger “deluxe” room or a view, discount if you pay cash, mention Rick Steves to get their best available room, air-con, old-timey elevator, free Wi-Fi, Via Cavour 14, tel. 055-239-6715, webhoteleuropa.com, firenze@webhoteleuropa.com).
$$ Residenza il Villino, popular and friendly, aspires to offer a Florentine home away from home. It has 10 charmingly rustic rooms and a picturesque, peaceful little courtyard. As it’s in a “little villa” (as the name implies) set back from the street, this is a quiet refuge from the bustle of Florence (Sb-€100, small Db-€110, Db-€130, family suite that sleeps up to 6—price upon request, ask about discount with this book if you pay cash, air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, just north of Via degli Alfani at Via della Pergola 53, tel. 055-200-1116, ilvillino.it, info@ilvillino.it; Sergio—who looks a bit like Henry Winkler, Elisabetta, and son Lorenzo).
$$ Panella’s Residence, once a convent and today part of owner Graziella’s extensive home, is a classy B&B, with six chic, romantic, and ample rooms, antique furnishings, and historic architectural touches (Db-€155, bigger “deluxe” Db-€180, extra bed-€40, book direct and mention Rick Steves for these prices, discounts for cash and stays of 3 or more nights, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via della Pergola 42, tel. 055-234-7202, mobile 345-972-1541, panellaresidence.com, panella_residence@yahoo.it).
$$ B&B Il Bargello is a home away from home, run by friendly and helpful Canadian expat Gabriella. Hike up three long flights (no elevator) to reach six smart, relaxing rooms. Gabriella offers a cozy communal living room, kitchen access, and an inviting rooftop terrace with close-up views of Florence’s towers (Db-€110, ask for Rick Steves rate when you book direct and pay cash, air-con, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, 20 yards off Via Proconsolo at Via de’ Pandolfini 33 black, tel. 055-215-330, mobile 339-175-3110, firenze-bedandbreakfast.it, info@firenze-bedandbreakfast.it).
$ Hotel Cardinal of Florence is a third-floor walk-up with 17 spartan, tidy, and sun-splashed rooms overlooking either a silent courtyard (many with views of Brunelleschi’s dome) or quiet street (hotel may be closed for renovation). Relax and enjoy Florence’s rooftops from the sun terrace (Sb-€60, Db-€95, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Borgo Pinti 5, tel. 055-234-0780, hotelcardinalofflorence.com, info@hotelcardinalofflorence.com).
$ Hotel Dalí has 10 cheery rooms in a nice location for a great price. Samanta and Marco, who run this guesthouse with a charming passion and idealism, are a delight to know (S-€40, D-€70, Db-€85, extra bed-€25, request quiet room when you book, nearby apartments sleep 2-6 people, no breakfast, fans but no air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, free parking, 2 blocks behind the Duomo at Via dell’Oriuolo 17 on the second floor, tel. 055-234-0706, hoteldali.com, hoteldali@tin.it).
$ Oblate Sisters of the Assumption run an institutional 30-room hotel in a Renaissance building with a dreamy garden, great public spaces, appropriately simple rooms, and a quiet, prayerful ambience (€45/person in single, double, triple, or quad rooms with bathrooms, cash only, single beds only, family discounts available, air-con, elevator, Wi-Fi with suggested donation, €10/day limited parking—request when you book, Borgo Pinti 15, tel. 055-248-0582, sroblateborgopinti@virgilio.it, sisters are likely to speak French but not English, Sister Theresa is very helpful).
$ Locanda de’ Ciompi, overlooking the inviting Piazza dei Ciompi antique market in a young and lively neighborhood, is just right for travelers who want to feel like a part of the town. Alessio and Lisa run a minimalist place—just five quiet, clean, tasteful rooms along a thin hallway (Db-€100, Tb-€120, ask about discount with this book if you book direct and pay cash, includes breakfast at nearby bar, air-con, free Wi-Fi, 8 blocks behind the Duomo at Via Pietrapiana 28, tel. 055-263-8034, bbflorencefirenze.com, info@bbflorencefirenze.com).
$ Hotel Il Duca—a big, bright place on a quiet street a few blocks behind the Duomo—seems like a basic building wearing a fancy coat. Its 13 pleasant rooms are a great value, but don’t expect a warm welcome or personal service (Sb-€85, Db-€90, third bed-€25, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via della Pergola 34, tel. 055-906-2167, hotelilduca.it, info@hotelilduca.it, Angela).
These are the most central of my accommodations recommendations (and therefore a little overpriced). While worth the extra cost for many, given Florence’s walkable, essentially traffic-free core, nearly every hotel I recommend can be considered central.
$$$ In Piazza della Signoria B&B, overlooking Piazza della Signoria, is peaceful, refined, and homey at the same time. Fit for a honeymoon, the 10 rooms come with all the special touches and little extras you’d expect in a top-end American B&B. However, the rates are high, and the “partial view” rooms, while slightly larger, require craning your neck to see anything—not worth the extra euros (viewless Db-€250, partial-view Db-€280, full-view “deluxe” Db-€300, Tb-€280, partial-view Tb-€300, ask for discount when you book direct with this book, family apartments, lavish bathrooms, air-con, tiny elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Magazzini 2, tel. 055-239-9546, mobile 348-321-0565, inpiazzadellasignoria.com, info@inpiazzadellasignoria.com, Sonia and Alessandro).
$$$ Hotel Pendini, with three stars and 42 rooms (most of them recently renovated), fills the top floor of a grand building constructed to celebrate Italian unification in the late 19th century. It overlooks Piazza della Repubblica, and as you walk into the lobby, you feel as if you are walking back in time (Sb-€139, Db-€189, deluxe Db with square view and noise-€239, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via degli Strozzi 2, tel. 055-211-170, hotelpendini.it, info@hotelpendini.it).
$$ B&B Dei Mori, a peaceful haven with a convivial and welcoming living room, rents five tastefully appointed rooms ideally located on a quiet pedestrian street near Casa di Dante—within a five-minute walk of the Duomo, the Bargello, or Piazza della Signoria. Accommodating Daniele (Danny) and Peter pride themselves on offering personal service, including lots of tips on dining and sightseeing in Florence. But if they’re full, I’d skip their offer of an apartment nearby (D-€110, Db-€130, minimum 2-night stay, discount for Rick Steves’ readers—ask when you book, air-con-€5, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, reception open 8:00-19:00, Via Dante Alighieri 12, tel. 055-211-438, deimori.com, deimori@bnb.it).
$$ Hotel Axial, on the main pedestrian drag, has 14 straightforward rooms, three-star amenities, and decent prices for the location (Sb-€84-104, Db-€139, book direct and use promo code “RICK” for discount, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Calzaiuoli 11, tel. 055-218-984, hotelaxial.it, info@hotelaxial.it, Nicola).
$$ Hotel Maxim, two floors above their sister Hotel Axial (and one star below), has 26 simpler rooms and even lower rates (Sb-€70, Db-€104, Tb-€124, Qb-€144, book direct and use promo code “RICK” for discount, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Calzaiuoli 11, tel. 055-217-474, hotelmaximfirenze.it, reservation@hotelmaximfirenze.it, Chiara).
$$$ Hotel Davanzati, bright and shiny with artistic touches, has 25 cheerful rooms with all the comforts. The place is a family affair, thoughtfully run by friendly Tommaso and father Fabrizio, who offer drinks and snacks each evening at their candlelit happy hour, plus lots of other extras (Sb-€132, Db-€199, Tb-€259, family rooms available, show this book and ask for Rick Steves rate, prices soft off-season, discount if you pay cash, free loaner laptop in every room, free on-demand videos—including Rick Steves’ Italy shows—on your room TV, air-con, free Wi-Fi, next to Piazza Davanzati at Via Porta Rossa 5—easy to miss so watch for low-profile sign above the door, tel. 055-286-666, hoteldavanzati.it, info@hoteldavanzati.it).
$$$ Hotel Torre Guelfa has grand (almost royal) public spaces and is topped by a fun medieval tower with a panoramic rooftop terrace. Its 31 pricey rooms vary wildly in size and layout. Room 315, with a private terrace (€260), is worth reserving several months in advance (Db-€170-200, Db junior suite-€250, ask for Rick Steves discount, family deals, check their website for promotions, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, a couple blocks northwest of Ponte Vecchio, Borgo S.S. Apostoli 8, tel. 055-239-6338, hoteltorreguelfa.com, info@hoteltorreguelfa.com, Niccolo and Barbara).
$$$ Relais Uffizi is a peaceful little gem, with 15 classy rooms tucked away down a tiny alleyway off Piazza della Signoria. The lounge has a huge window overlooking the action in the square below (Sb-€120, Db-€180, Tb-€220, more for deluxe rooms, buffet breakfast, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, off Chiasso de Baroncelli through arch to Chiasso del Buco 16, tel. 055-267-6239, relaisuffizi.it, info@relaisuffizi.it, charming Alessandro and Elizabetta).
$$ Hotel Alessandra is 16th-century, tranquil, and sprawling, with 27 big, tasteful rooms and an old-school, peeling-wallpaper vibe (S-€67-88, Sb-€110, D-€110, Db-€150, Tb-€195, Qb-€215, cash discount, air-con, 30 steps to the elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Borgo S.S. Apostoli 17, tel. 055-283-438, hotelalessandra.com, info@hotelalessandra.com, Anna and son Andrea).
$$$ Hotel Centrale is indeed central, just a short walk from the Duomo. The 31 spacious but slightly overpriced rooms—with a tasteful mix of old and new decor—are over a businesslike conference center (Db-€190, bigger superior Db-€237, Tb-€236, suites available, ask for Rick Steves rate when you reserve, additional discount if booked 3 months in advance, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via dei Conti 3, check in at big front desk on ground floor, tel. 055-215-761, hotelcentralefirenze.it, info@hotelcentralefirenze.it, Margherita and Roberto).
$$ Hotel Accademia, which comes with marble stairs, parquet floors, and attractive public areas, has 21 pleasant rooms and a floor plan that defies logic (Db-€145, Tb-€170, ask about discount with this book if you book direct and pay cash, air-con, no elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via Faenza 7, tel. 055-293-451, hotelaccademiafirenze.com, info@hotelaccademiafirenze.com, Tea).
$ Hotel Lorena, just across from the Medici Chapels, has 19 rooms (six of which have shared bathrooms), a tiny lobby, and is run with care by the Galli family. Though it’s a bit like a youth hostel, it’s cheap and conveniently located (S-€35, Sb-€50, D-€60, Db-€75, Tb-€95, very flexible rates, breakfast-€5, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via Faenza 1, tel. 055-282-785, hotellorena.com, info@hotellorena.com).
$ Katti House and the nearby Soggiorno Annamaria are run by house-proud mama-and-daughter team Maria and Katti, who rent a total of 15 simple rooms on a bustling, sometimes-noisy pedestrian street. While both offer comparable comfort, Soggiorno Annamaria has a more historic setting, with frescoed ceilings, unique tiles, timbered beams, and quieter rooms. Katti House serves as reception for both places, but mostly you interact with Maria; while she’s a fine hostess, she speaks virtually no English, so communication can be challenging (Sb-€85, D-€85, Db-€100, air-con, no elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi—only in Katti, Via Faenza 21, if no answer check in at Trattoria Katti next door, tel. 055-213-410, kattihouse.com, info@kattihouse.com). They also have several newer rooms located a five-minute walk north on busy Via Nazionale.
$$ Bellevue House is a third-floor (no elevator) oasis of tranquility, with six spacious, old-fashioned rooms flanking a long, mellow-yellow lobby. It’s a peaceful time warp thoughtfully run by the Michel family (Db-€110, Tb-€120, Qb-€140, ask about discount if you book direct and stay two nights, no breakfast, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Via della Scala 21, tel. 055-260-8932, bellevuehouse.it, info@bellevuehouse.it).
$ Albergo Margaret, homey yet minimalist, doesn’t have a public lounge or offer breakfast. Run by the Cristantielli family, it has seven tidy, simple rooms (D-€40, Ds-€60, Db-€75, ask about discount if you book direct and pay cash, extra bed-€10, air-con, free Wi-Fi, near Santa Maria Novella at Via della Scala 25, tel. 055-210-138, hotel-margaret.it, info@hotel-margaret.it; Francesco, Anna, and Graziano).
These two hostels, northeast of downtown, are a bus ride from the action. A far more central hostel is in the Oltrarno (listed at the end of the next section).
$ Villa Camerata, classy for an IYHF hostel, is in a pretty villa three miles northeast of the train station, on the outskirts of Florence (€24/bed with breakfast, 4- to 6-bed rooms, members pay €3/night less, private rooms available, free Wi-Fi, self-serve laundry, Viale Augusto Righi 2—take bus #11 from the train station to Salviatino or bus #17 to Via Cento Stelle, tel. 055-601-451, aighostels.com, firenze@aighostels.com).
$ Hostel 7 Santi calls itself a “travelers’ haven.” It fills a former convent, but you’ll feel like you’re in an old school. Still, it offers some of the best cheap beds in town, is friendly to older travelers, and comes with the services you’d expect in a big, modern hostel, including free Wi-Fi and self-serve laundry. It’s in a more residential neighborhood near the Campo di Marte stadium, about a 10-minute bus ride from the center (200 beds in 60 rooms, mostly 4- or 6-bed dorms with a floor of doubles and triples, €16-18/dorm bed, Sb-€45, Db-€60, Tb-€70, Qb-€80, includes sheets and towels, breakfast and dinner available but cost extra, no curfew, free guest computer, Wi-Fi; Viale dei Mille 11—from train station, take bus #10, #17, or #20, direction: Campo di Marte, to bus stop Chiesa dei Sette Santi; tel. 055-504-8452, 7santi.com, info@7santi.com).
Across the river in the Oltrarno area, between the Pitti Palace and Ponte Vecchio, you’ll find small, traditional crafts shops, neighborly piazzas, and family eateries. The following places are an easy walk from Ponte Vecchio. Only the first two are real hotels—the rest are a ragtag gang of budget alternatives.
$$$ Hotel Silla is a classic three-star hotel with 36 cheery, spacious rooms. On the opposite side of the river from Santa Croce Church, it has a breezy terrace and faces the river, overlooking a small park. Still, it can get a bit noisy from the surrounding neighborhood (Db-€180, bigger “superior” Db-€210, Tb-€230, book direct and use promo code “RICK” for discount, extra bed-€35, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, parking-€19/day, Via dei Renai 5, tel. 055-234-2888, hotelsilla.it, hotelsilla@hotelsilla.it; Laura, Chiara, Massimo, and Stefano).
$$ Hotel la Scaletta has 28 functional but colorful rooms hiding in a tortured floor plan, plus a fabulous rooftop terrace overlooking the Boboli Gardens (Db-€125, slightly more for new “superior” rooms, third bed-€20, family suite that sleeps up to 6-€239, breakfast-€7, air-con, elevator, free guest computer, Wi-Fi, Via de’ Guicciardini 13, tel. 055-283-028, hotellascaletta.it, info@hotellascaletta.it).
$ Soggiorno Alessandra has five bright, comfy, and smallish rooms. Because of its double-paned windows, you’ll hardly notice the traffic noise (D-€70, Db-€75, Tb-€100, Qb-€130, includes basic breakfast in room, air-con-€5, free Wi-Fi, just past the Carraia Bridge at Via Borgo San Frediano 6, tel. 055-290-424, soggiornoalessandra.it, info@soggiornoalessandra.it, Alessandra).
$ Casa Santo Nome di Gesù is a grand, 29-room convent whose sisters—Franciscan Missionaries of Mary—are thankful to rent rooms to tourists. Staying in this 15th-century palace, you’ll be immersed in the tranquil atmosphere created by a huge, peaceful garden, generous and prayerful public spaces, and smiling nuns. As with the Istituto Gould, below, it’s a good value and understandably popular—it’s best to reserve a couple of months in advance (D-€70, Db-€85, T-€100, Tb-€120, extra bed-€15, book direct to avoid fees, no air-con but rooms have fans, elevator, free Wi-Fi, memorable convent-like breakfast room, 1:00 in the morning curfew, parking-€10, Piazza del Carmine 21, tel. 055-213-856, fmmfirenze.it, info@fmmfirenze.it).
$ Istituto Gould is a Protestant Church-run place with 40 clean and spartan rooms that have twin beds and modern facilities. It’s located in a 17th-century palace overlooking a beautiful garden courtyard. The complex also houses kids from troubled homes, and proceeds raised from renting rooms help fund that important work (Sb-€55, Db-€60, €20 more for garden rooms that are quieter and have air-con, Tb-€84, Qb-€100, breakfast-€6, non-air-con rooms have fans, free Wi-Fi in lobby, Via dei Serragli 49, tel. 055-212-576, istitutogould.it, foresteriafirenze@diaconiavaldese.org). You must arrive when the office is open (Mon-Fri 8:45-13:00 & 15:00-19:30, Sat 9:00-13:30 & 14:30-18:00, no live check-in on Sundays, but they’ll email you a code).
Hostel: $ Ostello Santa Monaca is a well-run, institutional-feeling hostel a long block east of the Brancacci Chapel. As clean as its guests, its 112 beds in 13 rooms (2- to 20-bed dorms) attract a young backpacking crowd (€18-26/bed, includes sheets and towel, 10:00-14:00 lock-out, 2:00 in the morning curfew, free guest computer, free Wi-Fi, self-serve laundry, kitchen, bike rental, Via Santa Monaca 6, tel. 055-268-338, ostellosantamonaca.com, info@ostellosantamonaca.com).
The Tuscan countryside south of Florence is loaded with enticing rural farms offering accommodations, called agriturismi.
There are several places to consider within 30 minutes or less south of Florence. The rustic and cozy $$ Villa Salvadonica has a gorgeous setting overlooking rolling Tuscan hills (Db-€125-150, superior rooms and suites also available, Via Grevigiana 82, Mercatale Val di Pesa, tel. 055-821-8039, salvadonica.com). $$ Villa Il Poggiale is a serene manor house with classy and spacious rooms and expansive countryside views (Db-€69-200, Via Empolese 69, San Casciano Val di Pesa, tel. 055-828-311, villailpoggiale.it). The spa hotel $$$ Villa I Barronci offers a relaxing respite from sightseeing (Db-€179-200, Via Sorripa 10, San Casciano Val di Pesa, tel. 055-820-598, ibarronci.com).
Another option about 45 minutes south of Florence is in the Chianti region: $$$ I Greppi di Silli is a lovely, family-run agriturismo set among rolling hills. Owners Anna and Giuliano Alfani cultivate Chianti grapes and olive trees, and offer six carefully remodeled apartments with beds for 2-6 people, some with panoramic views and/or terraces; a seventh apartment (sleeps 8) is a mile away in an old country house (Db-€115-280 or €735-1,900/week, price depends on apartment, less off-season; one-week minimum—Sat-to-Sat—in July-Aug, fewer nights possible in shoulder and low season—but generally still a 3-night minimum; breakfast extra, pool, kids’ play area, table tennis, bocce ball court, loaner bikes, weekly farm dinners-€30/person—less for kids, Via Vallacchio 19, near San Casciano and just outside the village of Mercatale Val di Pesa, about 45 minutes’ drive to Florence or San Gimignano and one hour from Siena, tel. 055-821-7956, igreppidisilli.it, igreppidisilli@gmail.com).
Remember, restaurants like to serve what’s fresh. If you’re into flavor, go for the seasonal best bets—featured in the piatti del giorno (“specials of the day”) section on menus. For dessert, it’s gelato (see sidebar later in this section).
To save money and time for sights, keep lunches fast and simple, eating in one of the countless pizzerias and self-service cafeterias. Picnicking is easy—there’s no shortage of corner supermercatos, or you can picnic your way through the Mercato Centrale.
Foodies or those with more time (and a smartphone), consider downloading Elizabeth Minchilli’s excellent app, Eat Florence, which has thorough descriptions of all things food-related in the city (elizabethminchilliinrome.com).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Trattoria Marione serves sincerely home-cooked-style meals to a mixed group of tourists and Florentines beneath hanging ham hocks. The ambience is happy, crowded, food-loving, and a bit frantic (€8-11 pastas, €10-12 secondi, daily 12:00-17:00 & 19:00-23:00, Via della Spada 27 red, tel. 055-214-756, Fabio).
Trattoria al Trebbio serves traditional food, especially rabbit and steak, in a throwback Florentine setting. Inside, enjoy the old movie posters and garlands of garlic, or grab one of the few tables outside in season (€7-10 pastas, €10-16 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:15-23:00, half a block off of Piazza Santa Maria Novella at Via delle Belle Donne 47, tel. 055-287-089, Antonio).
Trattoria “da Giorgio” is a family-style diner on a sketchy street serving up piping-hot, simple home cooking to happy locals and tourists alike. Their three-course, fixed-price meal, including water and a drink, is a great value (€12 at lunch, €13 at dinner). Choose from among the daily specials or the regular menu (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:00, closed Sun, Via Palazzuolo 100 red, tel. 055-284-302, Silvano).
Trattoria Sostanza-Troia, characteristic and well-established, is famous for its beef. Hearty steaks and pastas are splittable. Whirling ceiling fans and walls strewn with old photos evoke earlier times, while the artichoke pies remind locals of Grandma’s cooking. Crowded, shared tables with paper tablecloths give this place a bistro feel. Reservations are always a good idea but essential for dinner, during which they offer two seatings, at 19:30 and 21:00 (dinners for about €30 plus wine, cash only, lunch Mon-Sat 12:30-14:00, closed Sun, closed Sat off-season, Via del Porcellana 25 red, tel. 055-212-691).
Trattoria 13 Gobbi (“13 Hunchbacks”) is a trendy and slightly self-important eatery, atmospherically cluttered and glowing with candles around a tiny garden. Romantic in front and more kid-friendly in back, it serves beautifully presented Tuscan food (they’re enthusiastic about their steak) on big, fancy plates to a mostly tourist crowd (€10-12 pastas, €14-19 secondi, daily 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00, Via del Porcellana 9 red, tel. 055-284-015, Enrico).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
The following market-neighborhood eateries all have a distinct vibe. They’re within a few blocks of each other; scout around and choose your favorite.
Trattoria Zà-Zà is a fun, high-energy place facing the Mercato Centrale. It offers a family-friendly festival of standard Tuscan dishes such as ribollita and bistecca alla fiorentina, plus a variety of big, splittable €8 salads. Though it’s more touristy than ever, the food is still good, and everyone’s happy. Arrive early or make a reservation. Choose between the colorful interior or the outdoor piazza. Understand your itemized bill, and don’t mistake their outside seating with the neighboring restaurant’s (€8-10 pastas, €10-16 secondi, daily 11:00-23:00, Piazza del Mercato Centrale 26 red, tel. 055-215-411). Their bar/osteria, nearby, has a similar menu (with a few differences, including more of an emphasis on seafood and taglieri—cheese-and-meat plates), a trendier-feeling interior, and a smaller, more open outdoor-dining zone.
Trattoria la Burrasca is Flintstone-chic. Friendly Elio and his staff offer a limited menu with good-value seasonal specials of Tuscan home cooking. It’s small—14 tables—and often filled with my readers. If Archie Bunker were Italian, he’d eat at this trattoria for special nights out (€6 pastas, €7-15 secondi, no cover or service charge, Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:30, closed Mon, Via Panicale 6, north corner of Mercato Centrale, tel. 055-215-827).
Trattoria Lo Stracotto is a truffle-colored eatery with sophisticated ambience just steps away from the Medici Chapels. It’s run by cousins Francesco and Tommaso, who serve up tasty, traditional dishes such as bistecca alla fiorentina and ribollita (based on grandfather’s recipe), and good chocolate soufflé. Enjoy the candlelit ambience and soft music as you sit either in the dining room or out on the terrace (€7-10 pastas, €10-17 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-22:30, Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandi 16/17, tel. 055-230-2062).
Osteria Vineria i’Brincello is a bright, happy, no-frills diner with tasty food, lots of spirit, friendly service, and no hint of snobbishness. It features a list of Tuscan daily specials hanging from the ceiling and great prices on good bottled wine (€7-8 pastas, €8-15 secondi, €5 takeout homemade pasta, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, near corner of Via Nazionale and Via Chiara at Via Nazionale 110 red, tel. 055-282-645, Fredi cooks while Claudia serves). Their hole-in-the-wall across the street, i’Brincellino, serves several inexpensive hot dishes (from the same kitchen) and tasty sandwiches. You can eat in or get it to go (daily 11:00-23:00).
Trattoria Nerone Pizzeria, serving up cheap, hearty Tuscan dishes and decent pizzas, is a tourist-friendly, practical standby in the hotel district. The lively, flamboyantly outfitted space (once the garden courtyard of a convent—they still have a small, leafy seasonal terrace) feels like a good but kitschy Italian-American chain restaurant (€5-8 pizzas, €6-8 pastas, €8-12 secondi, daily 12:00-23:00, just north of Via Nazionale at Via Faenza 95-97 red, tel. 055-291-217, Tulio).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Note that none of these eateries is open for dinner.
Mercato Centrale (Central Market) is great for an ad-lib lunch. It offers colorful piles of picnic produce, people-watching, and rustic sandwiches (Mon-Sat 7:00-14:00, Sat in winter until 17:00, closed Sun, a block north of San Lorenzo street market). The thriving eateries within the market (such as Nerbone, described next) serve some of the cheapest hot meals in town. The fancy deli, Perini, is famous for its quality (pricey) products and enticing display. Buy a picnic of fresh mozzarella cheese, olives, fruit, and crunchy bread to munch on the steps of the nearby Church of San Lorenzo, overlooking the bustling street market.
Nerbone in the Market is a venerable café and the best place for a sit-down meal within the Mercato Centrale. Join the shoppers and workers who crowd up to the bar to grab their €4-7 plates, and then find a stool at the cramped shared tables nearby. Of the several cheap market diners, this feels the most authentic. As intestines are close to Florentines’ hearts, it’s a good place to try tripe. For the less adventurous, porchetta (roast pork with herbs) and bollito (stewed beef with broth) are tasty alternatives (lunch menu served Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00, sandwiches available from 8:00 until the bread runs out, closed Sun, cash only, inside Mercato Centrale on the side closest to the Church of San Lorenzo, mobile 339-648-0251).
Trattoria Mario’s, around the corner from Trattoria Zà-Zà (listed earlier), has been serving hearty lunches to market-goers since 1953 (Fabio and Romeo are the latest generation). Their simple formula: no-frills, bustling service, old-fashioned good value, and shared tables. It’s cucina casalinga—home cooking con brio. This place is high-energy and jam-packed. Their best dishes often sell out first, so go early. If there’s a line, put your name on the list (€5-6 pastas, €8 secondi, cash only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:30, closed Sun and Aug, no reservations, Via Rosina 2, tel. 055-218-550).
Casa del Vino, Florence’s oldest operating wine shop, offers glasses of wine from among 25 open bottles (see the list tacked to the bar). Owner Gianni, whose family has owned the Casa for more than 70 years, is a class act. Gianni’s carta dei panini lists delightful €3.50 sandwiches and €1 crostini; the I Nostri Panini (classic sandwiches) richly reward adventurous eaters. During busy times, it’s a mob scene. You’ll eat standing outside alongside workers on a quick lunch break (Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00 year-round, Sat 9:30-17:00 Sept-June only, closed Sun year-round and Sat in summer, Via dell’Ariento 16 red, tel. 055-215-609).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
For pizza by the slice, try Pugi, at Piazza San Marco 9B.
Pasticceria Robiglio, a smart little café, opens up its stately dining area and sets out a few tables on the sidewalk for lunch. They have a small menu of daily pasta and secondi specials, and seem determined to do things like they did in the elegant, pre-tourism days (generous €9-10 plates, a great €8 niçoise-like “fantasy salad,” pretty pastries, smiling service, daily 12:00-15:00, longer hours as a café, a block toward the Duomo off Piazza S.S. Annunziata at Via dei Servi 112 red, tel. 055-212-784). Before you leave, be tempted by their pastries, which are famous among Florentines.
La Mescita Fiaschetteria is a characteristic hole-in-the-wall just around the corner from David—but a world away from all the tourism. It’s where locals and students enjoy daily pasta specials and hearty sandwiches with good €1.50 house wine. You can trust Mirco and Alessio (as far as you can throw them—check your bill)—just point to what looks good (such as their €5-6 pasta plate or €6-8 secondi), and you’ll soon be eating well and inexpensively. The place can either be mobbed by students or in a peaceful time warp, depending on when you stop by (Mon-Sat 10:45-16:00, closed Sun, Via degli Alfani 70 red, mobile 347-795-1604 or 338-992-2640).
Picnic on the Ultimate Renaissance Square: Il Centro Supermercati, a handy supermarket a half-block north of the Accademia, has a curbside sandwich bar (Panineria) with an easy English menu that includes salads to go (Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, Sun 10:00-19:00, Sat-Mon closed 15:00-16:30, sandwich bar may close earlier, Via Ricasoli 109). With your picnic in hand, hike around the block and join the bums on Piazza S.S. Annunziata, the first Renaissance square in Florence (don’t confuse this with the less-interesting Piazza San Marco, closer to the supermarket). There’s a fountain for washing fruit on the square. Grab a stony seat anywhere you like, and savor one of my favorite cheap Florence eating experiences. Or drop by any of the places listed earlier for an easy lunch (pizza, kebab, or sandwich plus juice) to go.
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Antica Trattoria da Tito, a 10-minute hike from the Accademia along Via San Gallo, can be fun if you want a long, drawn-out event of a meal with a local crowd and smart-aleck service. The boss, Bobo, serves quality traditional food and lots of wine. While the food is good, there’s no pretense—it’s just a playground of Tuscan cuisine with “no romance allowed.” The music is vintage 1980s and can be loud. To gorge on a feast of antipasti (cold cuts, cheeses, a few veggies, and bruschetta), consider ordering fermami (literally, “stop me”)—for €14, Bobo brings you food until you say, “Fermami!” A couple can get fermami, desserts, and a nice bottle of wine for around €60 total (€10 pastas, €12 secondi, €14 gran tagliere—big plate of cheese and meat, travelers with this book get a free after-dinner drink, Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, closed Sun, reservations generally necessary, Via San Gallo 112 red, tel. 055-472-475, trattoriadatito.it).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Self-Service Ristorante Leonardo is an inexpensive, air-conditioned, quick, and handy cafeteria. Eating here, you’ll get the sense that they’re passionate about the quality of their food. Stefano and Luciano (like Pavarotti) run the place with enthusiasm and put out free pitchers of tap water. It’s just a block from the Duomo, southwest of the Baptistery (€5 primi, €6 main courses, lots of veggies, Sun-Fri 11:45-14:45 & 18:45-21:45, closed Sat, upstairs at Via Pecori 11, tel. 055-284-446).
Paszkowski, a grand café on Piazza della Repubblica, serves up inexpensive, quick lunches. At the display case, order a salad or €7 plate of pasta or cooked veggies (or half and half), pay the cashier, and find a seat upstairs. Better yet, eat at one of the tables on the square. Note that table service prices are much more expensive (daily 7:00-24:00, lunch served 12:00-15:00, closed Mon off-season, Piazza della Repubblica 35 red—northwest corner, tel. 055-210-236).
Döner Kebab: A good place to try this cheap Middle Eastern specialty is Turkuaz, a couple blocks northeast of the Duomo (Via dei Servi 65).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Piazza della Signoria, the scenic square facing Palazzo Vecchio, is ringed by beautifully situated yet touristy eateries serving overpriced, bad-value, and probably microwaved food. If you’re determined to eat on the square, have pizza at Ristorante il Cavallino or bar food from the Irish pub next door. Piazza della Signoria’s saving grace is Rivoire café, famous for its fancy desserts and thick hot chocolate. While obscenely expensive, it has the best view tables on the square. Stand at the bar with the locals and pay way less (Tue-Sun 7:30-24:00, closed Mon, tel. 055-214-412).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Frescobaldi Ristorante and Wine Bar, the showcase of Italy’s aristocratic wine family, is a good choice for a formal dinner in Florence. Candlelight reflects off glasses of wine, and high-vaulted ceilings complement the sophisticated dishes. They offer the same seasonal menu in three different dining areas: cozy interior, woody wine bar, and breezy terrace. If coming for dinner, make a reservation, dress up, and hit an ATM (€11-14 appetizers and pastas, €18-25 secondi, lighter wine-bar menu at lunch, daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed the middle of Aug, air-con, half a block north of Palazzo Vecchio at Via dei Magazzini 2-4 red, tel. 055-284-724, deifrescobaldi.it, Duccio).
Ristorante Paoli dishes up traditional cuisine to loads of cheerful eaters being served by jolly little old men under a richly frescoed Gothic vault. It feels old-school and Old World...it’s all about the setting. Because of its fame and central location, it’s filled mostly with tourists, but for a traditional Tuscan splurge meal, this is a fine choice. The walls are sweaty with memories that go back to 1824, and the service is flamboyant and fun-loving (but don’t get taken—confirm prices). Woodrow Wilson slurped spaghetti here—his bust looks down on you as you eat (€10-15 pastas, €12-20 secondi, daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, reserve for dinner, between Piazza della Signoria and the Duomo at Via dei Tavolini 12 red, tel. 055-216-215, Antonio).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Cantinetta dei Verrazzano, a long-established bakery/café/wine bar, serves delightful sandwich plates in an old-time setting. Their selezione Verrazzano is a fine plate of four little crostini (like mini-bruschetta) proudly featuring different breads, cheeses, and meats from the Chianti region (€7.50). The tagliere di focacce, a sampler plate of mini-focaccia sandwiches, is also fun (€16 for big plate for two). Add a €5 glass of Chianti to either of these dishes to make a fine, light meal. Office workers pop in for a quick lunch, and it’s traditional to share tables. Be warned: Prices can add up here in a hurry (Mon-Sat 8:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-16:30, no reservations taken, just off Via de’ Calzaiuoli, across from Orsanmichele Church at Via dei Tavolini 18, tel. 055-268-590). They also have benches and tiny tables for eating at take-out prices. Simply step to the back and point to a hot focacce sandwich (€3), order a drink at the bar, and take away your food or sit with Florentines and watch the action while you munch.
Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori, half a block north of the Palazzo Vecchio, is a colorful eatery serving Tuscan food with a fun, accessible menu of delicious €8-10 pastas and €9-15 secondi (Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed Sun, reserve for dinner; facing the bronze equestrian statue in Piazza della Signoria, go behind its tail into the corner and to your left; Via dei Magazzini 3 red, tel. 055-293-045, run by Mario while wife Rosanna cooks and son Thomas serves).
I Fratellini is a hole-in-the-wall where the “little brothers” have served peasants 29 different kinds of sandwiches and cheap glasses of Chianti wine (see list on wall) since 1875. Join the local crowd to order, then sit on a nearby curb to eat, placing your glass on the wall rack before you leave (€2.50-3 sandwiches, daily 9:00-19:30 or until the bread runs out, closed Sun in winter, 20 yards in front of Orsanmichele Church on Via dei Cimatori, tel. 055-239-6096). Be adventurous with the menu (easy-order by number). Consider finocchiona e caprino (#15, a Tuscan salami and soft goat cheese), lardo di Colonnata (#22, cured lard aged in Carrara marble), and cinghiale (#19, spicy wild boar salami) sandwiches. Order the most expensive wine they’re selling by the glass (Brunello for €5; bottles are labeled).
Cheap Takeout on Via Dante Alighieri: Three handy places line up on this street, just a couple of blocks from the Duomo. L’Antico Trippaio, a tripe stand, is a fixture in the town center. Cheap and authentic as can be, this is where locals come daily for €4-7 sandwiches (panino), featuring specialties like trippa alla fiorentina (tripe), lampredotto (cow’s stomach), and a list of more appetizing options. Lisa and Maurizio offer a free plastic glass of rotgut Chianti with each sandwich for travelers with this book (daily 9:00-21:00, on Via Dante Alighieri, mobile 339-742-5692). If tripe isn’t your cup of offal, Pizzeria Totò, just next to the tripe stand, has good €2.50-3 slices (daily 10:30-23:00, Via Dante Alighieri 28 red, tel. 055-290-406). And a few steps in the opposite direction is a Metà supermarket, with cheap drinks and snacks and a fine antipasti case inside (daily 8:30-21:30, Sun from 9:00, Via Dante Alighieri 20-24). If you pick up lunch at any of these, the best people-watching place to enjoy your sandwich is three blocks away, on Piazza della Signoria.
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
’Ino is a mod little shop filled with gifty edibles. Alessandro and his staff serve sandwiches and wine—you’ll get your €5-8 sandwich on a napkin with an included glass of their wine of the day as you perch on a tiny stool. They can also make a fine €12 piatto misto of cheeses and meats with bread (daily 11:30-16:30, immediately behind Uffizi Gallery on Ponte Vecchio side, between the olive tree and the river, Via dei Georgofili 7 red, tel. 055-219-208).
(See “Florence Restaurants” map, here.)
Ristorante del Fagioli is an enthusiastically run eatery where you feel the heritage. The dad, Gigi, commands the kitchen while family members Antonio, Maurizio, and Simone keep the throngs of loyal customers returning. The cuisine: home-style bread-soups, hearty steaks, and other Florentine classics. Don’t worry—though fagioli means “beans,” that’s the family name, not the extent of the menu (€9 primi, €9-10 secondi, cash only, Mon-Fri 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sat-Sun, reserve for dinner, a block north of the Alle Grazie bridge at Corso dei Tintori 47, tel. 055-244-285).
Boccadama Enoteca Ristorante is a stylish, shabby-chic wine bistro serving an easy-to-navigate menu of capably executed traditional Tuscan fare based on seasonal produce. Eat in the intimate dining room with candles reflecting off bottle-lined walls or at one of the few tables on the dramatic Piazza Santa Croce. As this place is popular with groups, reservations are smart, especially for outside (€8-9 primi, €12-16 secondi, daily 11:00-23:00, on south side of Piazza Santa Croce at 25-26 red, tel. 055-243-640, Marco, boccadama.com).
Trattoria Anita, midway between the Uffizi and Santa Croce, feels old-school, with wood paneling and rows of wine bottles. Brothers Nicola, Gianni, and Maurizio offer a good-value lunch special: three hearty Tuscan courses for €10 on weekdays (€7-8 pastas, €7-13 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:15, closed Sun, on the corner of Via Vinegia and Via del Parlagio at #2 red, tel. 055-218-698).
Trattoria I’cche C’è C’è (EE-kay chay chay; dialect for “whatever there is, there is”) is a small, family-style restaurant where fun-loving Gino and his wife Mara serve functional local food, including a €13 three-course, fixed-price meal. While filled with tourists, the place has a charming mom-and-pop warmth (€7-12 pastas, €12-18 secondi, Tue-Sun 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Mon and two weeks in Aug, midway between Bargello and river at Via Magalotti 11 red, tel. 055-216-589).
Club del Gusto, a block behind the Palazzo Vecchio, is a low-key place with a friendly owner/chef. Grab a salad or sandwich to carry away, or enjoy a made-to-order pasta plate at a table in back (Via dei Neri 50 red, tel. 348-090-3142).
All’Antico Vinaio, a photogenic Florentine favorite, has two options: You can either stand in the street, grabbing a €5 sandwich and pouring your own wine (€2/glass), or head across the street to their osteria to sit down and order from a more extensive menu (Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-16:00, Via dei Neri 65 red, tel. 055-238-2723).
In general, dining in the Oltrarno offers a more authentic experience; although it’s quite close to the old center, tourists imagine that it’s another world and tend to stay away. At many of these places, Florentines may even outnumber my readers. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Golden View Open Bar is a lively, trendy bistro, good for a romantic meal or just a salad, pizza, or pasta with fine wine and a fine view of Ponte Vecchio and the Arno River. Its white, minimalist interior is a stark contrast to atmospheric old Florence. Reservations for window tables are essential unless you drop in early for dinner (€10 pizzas, €11-15 pastas, big €11-14 salads, €20-30 secondi, daily 11:30-24:00, impressive wine bar, 50 yards east of Ponte Vecchio at Via dei Bardi 58, tel. 055-214-502, goldenviewopenbar.com, run by Antonio, Marco, and Tommaso). They have four seating areas (with the same menu and prices) for whatever mood you’re in: a riverside pizza place, a classier restaurant, a jazzy lounge, and a wine bar (they also serve a buffet of appetizers free with your €10-12 drink from 19:00 to 21:00). Mixing their fine wine, river views, and live jazz makes for a wonderful evening (jazz Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat nights at 21:00).
(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Of the many good and colorful restaurants in the Oltrarno, these are my favorites. Reservations are a good idea in the evening.
Il Santo Bevitore Ristorante, lit like a Rembrandt painting and filled with dressy tables, serves creative Tuscan cuisine. They’re enthusiastic about matching quality produce from the area with the right wine. This is a good break from the big, sloppy plates of pasta you’ll get at many Florence eateries (€9-12 pastas, €8-12 meat-and-cheese taglieri, €10-18 secondi, good wine list by the glass or bottle, daily 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun for lunch, come early or make reservations, no outside seating, Via di Santo Spirito 64, tel. 055-211-264). Their smaller wine bar next door, Enoteca Il Santino Gastronomia, feels like the perfect after-work hangout for foodies who’d like a glass of wine and some light food. Tight, cozy, and atmospheric, one wall is occupied by the bar, where you can assemble an €8-12 tagliere of local cheeses and salumi (also available to take away). They also have a few €6-8 hot dishes. Both the food and the wine are locally sourced from small producers (daily 12:30-23:00, Via di Santo Spirito 60 red, tel. 055-230-2820).
Trattoria 4 Leoni creates the quintessential Oltrarno dinner scene, and it’s understandably popular with tourists. The Tuscan-style food is made with an innovative twist and an appreciation for vegetables. You’ll enjoy the fun energy and characteristic seating, both outside on the colorful square, Canto ai Quattro Pagoni, and inside, where you’ll dine in exposed-stone sophistication. While the wines by the glass are pricey, the house wine is good (€8-10 primi, €10-15 secondi, daily 12:00-24:00, dinner reservations smart; from Ponte Vecchio walk four blocks up Via de’ Guicciardini, turn right on Via dello Sprone, then slightly left to Via de’ Vellutini 1; tel. 055-218-562, 4leoni.com).
Antico Ristoro Di’ Cambi is a meat lover’s dream—thick with Tuscan traditions, rustic touches, and T-bone steaks. The bustling scene has a memorable, beer-hall energy. As you walk in, you’ll pass a glass case filled with red chunks of Chianina beef that’s priced by weight (for the famous bistecca alla fiorentina, €40/kilo, standard serving is half a kilo per person). Before you OK your investment, they’ll show you the cut and tell you the weight. While the steak comes nearly uncooked, it’s air-dried for 21 days so it’s not really raw, just very tasty and tender—it’ll make you happy you’re at the top of the food chain. Sit inside the convivial woody interior or outside on a square (€8-10 pastas, €10-18 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 18:30-22:30, closed Sun, reserve on weekends and to sit outside, Via Sant’Onofrio 1 red, one block south of Ponte Amerigo Vespucci, tel. 055-217-134, run by Stefano and Fabio, the Cambi cousins).
Olio & Convivium Gastronomia is primarily a catering company for top-end events, and this is where they showcase their cooking. It started as an elegant deli whose refined olive-oil-tasting room morphed into a romantic, aristocratic restaurant. Their three intimate rooms are surrounded by fine prosciutti, cheeses, and wine shelves. It can seem intimidating and a little pretentious, but well-dressed foodies will appreciate this place for its quiet atmosphere. Their list of €14-25 gastronomia plates offers an array of taste treats and fine wines by the glass (€14-16 pastas, €20-22 secondi, stylish €18 lunches with wine, Tue-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, Mon 12:00-14:30 only, closed Sun, strong air-con, Via di Santo Spirito 4, tel. 055-265-8198, Monica).
Trattoria da Sergio is a tiny eatery about a block before Porta San Frediano, one of Florence’s medieval gates. It has charm and a strong following, so reservations are a must. The food is on the gourmet side of home-cooking—mama’s favorites with a modern twist—and therefore a bit more expensive (€9-10 primi, €12-18 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:00 & 19:30-22:45, Sun 12:00-14:00 only, Borgo San Frediano 145 red, tel. 055-223-449, Sergio and Marco, trattoriadasergio.it).
Trattoria Al Tranvai, with tight seating and small dark-wood tables, looks like an old-time tram filled with the neighborhood gang. A 10-minute walk from the river at the edge of the Oltrarno, it feels like a small town’s favorite eatery (€8-10 pastas, €10-13 secondi, Mon 19:00-24:00, Tue-Sat 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Sun; from the Brancacci Chapel, go south on Via del Leone 5 minutes to Piazza T. Tasso 14 red, tel. 055-225-197, altranvai.it).
(See “Oltrarno Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Trattoria Sabatino, farthest away and least touristy of my Oltrarno listings, is a spacious, brightly lit mess hall. You get the feeling it hasn’t changed much since it opened—in 1956. It’s disturbingly cheap, with family character and a simple menu—a super place to watch locals munch, especially since you’ll likely be sharing a table. You’ll find it just outside Porta San Frediano, a 15-minute walk from Ponte Vecchio (€4 pastas, €6 secondi, Mon-Fri 12:00-14:30 & 19:15-22:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via Pisana 2 red, tel. 055-225-955, little English spoken).
Trattoria Casalinga, an inexpensive standby, comes with aproned women bustling around the kitchen. Florentines and tourists alike pack the place and leave full and happy, with euros to spare for gelato (€7 pastas, €8-10 secondi, Mon-Sat 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-21:45, after 20:00 reserve or wait, closed Sun and Aug, just off Piazza di Santo Spirito, near the church at Via de’ Michelozzi 9 red, tel. 055-218-624, Andrea and Paolo).
Borgo Antico is the hit of Piazza di Santo Spirito, with enticing pizzas, big deluxe plates of pasta, a delightful setting, and a trendy and boisterous young crowd (€8-10 pizza, pasta, and salads, €14-18 secondi, daily 12:00-23:00, best to reserve for a seat on the square, Piazza di Santo Spirito 6 red, tel. 055-210-437, Andrea and Michele—feel his forearm). Volume, the bar next door, is run by the same gang.
Caffè Ricchi, next to Borgo Antico, has fine gelato, homemade desserts, shaded outdoor tables, and €4 pasta dishes at lunch. After noting the plain facade of the Brunelleschi church facing the square, step inside the café and pick your favorite picture of the many ways the church might be finished (daily 7:00-24:00, tel. 055-280-830). Ristorante Ricchi, its sister restaurant next door, is more formal, has a larger menu, and also has tables on the square.
Le Volpi e l’Uva, a wine bar just steps from Ponte Vecchio, has a limited menu of affettati (cold cuts), cheese, and crostone (hearty bruschetta)—a nice spot for a light lunch (Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00, closed Sun, Piazza dei Rossi 1).
Supermarket: Sapori & Dintorni Conad, just over Ponte Vecchio and to the left, has all you need for picnic (daily 9:30-20:00).
Florence is Tuscany’s transportation hub, with fine train, bus, and plane connections to virtually anywhere in Italy. The city has several train stations, a bus station (next to the main train station), and an airport (plus Pisa’s airport is nearby).
From Florence by Train to: Siena (direct trains hourly, 1.5-2 hours, €8.50; bus is better because Siena’s train station is far from the center), La Spezia (for the Cinque Terre, 5/day direct, 2.5 hours, otherwise nearly hourly with change in Pisa, €11.30), Milan (hourly, 1.75 hours, €53), Milan’s Malpensa Airport (6/day direct, 4 hours, 2 changes, €58), Venice (hourly, 2-3 hours, may transfer in Bologna; often crowded—reserve ahead, €43), Rome (at least hourly, 1.5 hours, most connections require seat reservations, €45), Interlaken (5/day, 5.5-6 hours, 2-3 changes), Frankfurt (1/day, 12 hours, 1-3 changes), Paris (3/day, 10-15 hours, 1-2 changes, important to reserve overnight train ahead), Vienna (1 direct overnight train, or 5/day with 1-3 changes, 10-16 hours).
Note that these departures are operated by Trenitalia; a competing private rail company called Italo offers additional high-speed connections to major Italian cities (including Milan, Padua, Venice, Rome, and Naples). While Italo is often cheaper (particularly if you book long in advance), it doesn’t accept rail passes (for details on Italo, see here or visit italotreno.it).
The BusItalia bus station (100 yards west of the Florence train station on Via Santa Caterina da Siena) is a big, old-school lot with numbered stalls and all the services you’d expect. Although the bus company’s name recently changed, most buses and signs will probably still have the old SITA label. Schedules for regional trips are posted and TV monitors show imminent departures. Bus service drops dramatically on Sunday. Generally it’s best to buy bus tickets in the station, as you’ll pay 30 percent more if you buy tickets onboard. Bus info: tel. 800-373-760 (Mon-Fri 9:00-15:00, closed Sat-Sun), fsbusitalia.it.
From Florence by Bus to: Siena (about 2/hour, 1.25-hour rapida/via superstrada buses are faster than the train, avoid the slower ordinaria buses, €7.80, sienamobilita.it), Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport (2/hour, 30 minutes, €6, pay driver and immediately validate ticket, usually departs from platform 1, first bus leaves for airport from Florence at 5:30).
For small groups with more money than time, zipping to nearby towns by taxi can be a good value (e.g., €120 from your Florence hotel to your Siena hotel).
A more comfortable alternative is to hire a private car service. Florence-based Transfer Chauffeur Service has a fleet of modern vehicles with drivers who can whisk you between cities, to and from the cruise-ship port at Livorno, and through the Tuscan countryside for around the same price as a cab (tel. 055-612-3659, mobile 338-862-3129, transfercs.com, marco.masala@transfercs.com, Marco). Prestige Rent also has friendly, English-speaking drivers and offers similar services (tel. 055-300-230, mobile 333-999-5929, US tel. 347/338-0972, prestigerent.com, usa@prestigerent.com, Saverio).
Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport, also called Peretola Airport, is about five miles northwest of the city (open 5:00-23:00, no overnighting allowed, TI, cash machines, car-rental agencies, airport code: FLR, airport info tel. 055-315-874, flight info tel. 055-306-1700—domestic only, aeroporto.firenze.it). Shuttle buses (to the far right as you exit the arrivals hall) connect the airport with Florence’s BusItalia/SITA bus station, 100 yards west of the train station on Via Santa Caterina da Siena (2/hour, 30 minutes, €6, buy ticket on board and validate immediately, daily 6:00-23:30). If you’re changing to a different intercity bus in Florence (for instance, one bound for Siena), stay on the bus through the first stop (at the train station); it will continue on to the bus station nearby. Allow about €25 and 30 minutes for a taxi.
Pisa’s Galileo Galilei Airport also handles international and domestic flights (daily April-Oct 9:00-23:00, Nov-March 9:00-20:00; cash machine, car-rental agencies, baggage storage from 9:00-19:00 only—€7/bag, self-service cafeteria; airport code: PSA, tel. 050-849-300, pisa-airport.com).
You can connect from Pisa’s airport to Florence easily by train (2-3/hour, 1.25 hours, €7.80, most transfer at Pisa Centrale) or by Terravision bus (about hourly, 1.25 hours, €5 one-way, ticket kiosk is at the right end of the arrivals hall as you’re facing the exits, catch bus outside and to the far right of the bus parking lot, leaves you at Santa Maria Novella station, terravision.eu).