Map: Barcelona Neighborhood Overview
Map: Barcelona’s Public Transportation
Weekend Tour Packages for Students
Self-Guided Walks in Barcelona
Business-Class Comfort near Plaça de Catalunya
Map: Barcelona’s Old City Hotels
Affordable Hotels with “Personality” on or near the Ramblas
Map: Hotels & Restaurants in Barcelona’s Eixample
Map: Barcelona’s Old City Restaurants
In El Born, near the Picasso Museum
Barcelona may be Spain’s second city, but it’s undoubtedly the first city of the proud and distinct region of Catalunya. Catalan flags wave side by side with the Spanish flag, and locals, while fluent in both languages, stubbornly insist on speaking Catalan first. This lively culture is on an unstoppable roll in Spain’s most cosmopolitan and European corner.
Barcelona bubbles with life in its narrow Barri Gòtic alleys, along the pedestrian boulevard called the Ramblas, in the funky bohemian quarter of El Born, and throughout the chic, grid-planned new part of town called the Eixample. Its Old City is made for seeing on foot, full of winding lanes that emerge into secluded squares dotted with palm trees and ringed with cafés and boutiques. The waterfront bristles with life, overlooked by the park-like setting of Montjuïc. Everywhere you go, you’ll find the city’s architecture to be colorful, playful, and unique. Rows of symmetrical ironwork balconies are punctuated with fanciful details: bay windows, turrets, painted tiles, hanging lanterns, flower boxes, and carved reliefs.
Barcelona is full of history. You’ll see Roman ruins, a medieval cathedral, twisty Gothic lanes, and traces of Columbus and the sea trade. As the Age of Exploration steered trade from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, things got pretty quiet here (kept carefully under the thumb of Spanish rulers). But by the late 19th century, the city had boomed into an industrial powerhouse, and it was incubating a new artistic style—Modernism. Pablo Picasso lived in Barcelona as a teenager, right as he was on the verge of reinventing painting; his legacy is today’s Picasso Museum. Catalan architects including Antoni Gaudí, Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and Josep Puig i Cadafalch forged the Modernista style and remade the city’s skyline with curvy fantasy buildings—culminating in Gaudí’s over-the-top Sagrada Família, a church still under construction. Salvador Dalí and Joan Miró join the long list of world-changing 20th-century artists with ties to this city. Meanwhile, world’s fairs in 1888 and 1929 helped spruce up the city, and in 1992, Barcelona hosted the Summer Olympics—an event that once again re-energized this dynamic city and left it with a wealth of attractive public areas and great sights.
Today’s Barcelona is as vibrant as ever. Locals still join hands and dance the everyone’s-welcome sardana in front of the cathedral every weekend. Neighborhood festivals jam the events calendar. The cafés are filled by day, and people crowd the streets at night, pausing to fortify themselves with a perfectly composed bite of seafood and a drink at a tapas bar. Every hidden back lane provides shelter for an array of inviting shops. If you’re in the mood to surrender to a city’s charms, let it be in Barcelona.
Barcelona is easily worth two days, and no one would regret having a third day (or more). If you can spare only one full day for the city, it will be a scramble, but one you’ll never forget.
When planning your time, be aware that many top sights are closed on Monday—making them especially crowded on Tuesday and Sunday (for a rundown of hours, see “At a Glance” on here). Some of Barcelona’s major sights can have long lines; it’s smart to make advance reservations.
For a relaxing day, stroll the Ramblas, see the Sagrada Família, add the Picasso Museum if you’re a fan, and have dinner in the trendy El Born district.
To cram in much more, try the following ambitious but doable plan. You’ll have to rush through the big sights (cathedral, Picasso Museum, Sagrada Família), having just enough time to visit each one but not to linger.
| 9:00 | From Plaça de Catalunya (with its handy TI), follow my “Barri Gòtic Walk” and tour the cathedral. |
| 11:00 | Circle back to Plaça de Catalunya and follow my self-guided “Ramblas Ramble” to the harborfront. |
| 12:30 | Walk along the harborfront to El Born, grabbing a quick lunch and doing a little shopping. |
| 14:00 | Tour the Picasso Museum. |
| 16:00 | Take a taxi or the Metro to the Sagrada Família. |
| 18:00 | Taxi, bus, or walk to Passeig de Gràcia in the Eixample to see the exteriors of Gaudí’s La Pedrera and the Block of Discord. Stroll back down toward Plaça de Catalunya. |
| 19:00 | If your energy is holding out, wander back into the Barri Gòtic at prime paseo time. Enjoy an early tapas dinner along the way, or a restaurant dinner later in the Old City. |
To better sample the city’s ample charm, spread your visit over several days. With at least two days, divide and conquer the town geographically: Spend one day in the Old City (Ramblas, Barri Gòtic/cathedral area, Picasso Museum/El Born) and another on the Eixample and Gaudí sights (La Pedrera, Sagrada Família, Park Güell). Do Montjuïc on whichever day you’re not exhausted (if any)—or, better yet, on a third day.
With extra time on any day, consider taking a hop-on, hop-off bus tour for a sightseeing overview (for instance, the Tourist Bus blue route links most Gaudí sights, and could work well on Day 2). If the weather is good, consider hitting one of Barcelona’s beaches.
In the evening, take your pick of activities: Assemble a tapas dinner by hopping from bar to bar in El Born, and take “A Short, Sweet Walk” (here) for dessert. (Other good neighborhoods for tapas are the classy Eixample or touristy Barri Gòtic.) Or wait to dine at a restaurant when locals do, around 21:00. Take in a performance of Spanish guitar, flamenco, or jazz, or a concert in a fancy setting (such as La Pedrera or the Palace of Catalan Music). Zip up to Montjuïc for the sunset and a drink (on the Catalan Art Museum’s terrace), then head down to the illuminated Magic Fountains (Fri-Sat, plus Thu and Sun in summer).
Like Los Angeles, Barcelona is a basically flat city that sprawls out under the sun between the sea and the mountains. It’s huge (1.6 million people, with about 5 million people in greater Barcelona), but travelers need only focus on four areas: the Old City, the harbor/Barceloneta, the Eixample, and Montjuïc.
A large square, Plaça de Catalunya, sits at the center of Barcelona, dividing the older and newer parts of town. Below Plaça de Catalunya is the Old City, with the boulevard called the Ramblas running down to the harbor. Above Plaça de Catalunya is the modern residential area called the Eixample. The Montjuïc hill overlooks the harbor.
Here are more details per neighborhood:
Old City (Ciutat Vella): This is the compact core of Barcelona—ideal for strolling, shopping, and people-watching—where you’ll probably spend most of your time. It’s a labyrinth of narrow streets that once were confined by the medieval walls. The lively pedestrian drag called the Ramblas—one of Europe’s most entertaining streets—runs through the heart of the Old City from Plaça de Catalunya down to the harbor. The Old City is divided into thirds by the Ramblas and another major thoroughfare, Via Laietana. Between the Ramblas and Via Laietana is the characteristic Barri Gòtic (BAH-ree GOH-teek, Gothic Quarter), with the cathedral as its navel. Locals call it simply “El Gòtic” for short. To the east of Via Laietana is the trendy El Born district (a.k.a. “La Ribera”), a shopping, dining, and nightlife mecca centered on the Picasso Museum and the Church of Santa Maria del Mar. To the west of the Ramblas is the Raval (rah-VAHL), enlivened by its university and modern-art museum. The Raval is of least interest to tourists (and, in fact, some parts of it are quite seedy and should be avoided).
Harborfront: The old harbor, Port Vell, gleams with landmark monuments and new developments. A pedestrian bridge links the Ramblas with the modern Maremagnum shopping/aquarium/entertainment complex. On the peninsula across the quaint sailboat harbor is Barceloneta, a traditional fishing neighborhood with gritty charm and some good seafood restaurants. Beyond Barceloneta, a gorgeous man-made beach several miles long leads east to the commercial and convention district called the Fòrum.
Eixample: North of the Old City, beyond the bustling hub of Plaça de Catalunya, is the elegant Eixample (eye-SHAM-plah) district, its grid plan softened by cut-off corners. Much of Barcelona’s Modernista architecture is found here—especially along the swanky artery Passeig de Gràcia, an area called the Quadrat d’Or (“Golden Quarter”). To the north is the Gràcia district and beyond that, Antoni Gaudí’s Park Güell.
Montjuïc: The large hill overlooking the city to the southwest is Montjuïc (mohn-jew-EEK), home to a variety of attractions, including some excellent museums (Catalan Art, Joan Miró) and the Olympic Stadium. At the base of Montjuïc, stretching toward Plaça d’Espanya, are the former 1929 World Expo Fairgrounds, with additional fine attractions (including the CaixaForum art gallery and the bullring-turned-mall, Las Arenas).
Apart from your geographical orientation, you’ll need to orient yourself linguistically to a language distinct from Spanish. Although Spanish (“Castilian”/castellano) is widely spoken, the native tongue in this region is Catalan—nearly as different from Spanish as Italian.
Barcelona’s TI has several branches (central tel. 932-853-834, barcelonaturisme.cat). The primary one is beneath the main square, Plaça de Catalunya (daily 8:30-20:30, entrance along southeast side of square, across from El Corte Inglés department store—look for red sign and take stairs down, tel. 932-853-832).
Several other convenient branches include a kiosk near the top of the Ramblas (daily 8:30-20:30, at #115, mobile 618-783-479); on Plaça de Sant Jaume, just south of the cathedral (Mon-Fri 8:30-20:00, Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-14:00, in the Barcelona City Hall at Ciutat 2); near the cathedral, in the Catalan College of Architects building (daily 9:00-19:00); inside the base of the Columbus Monument at the harbor (daily 8:30-19:30); at the airport, in both terminals 1 and 2B (both open daily 8:30-20:30); and at Sants train station (daily 8:00-20:00).
You’ll also find smaller info kiosks in other touristy locales: on Plaça d’Espanya, in the park across from the Sagrada Família entrance, near the Columbus Monument, at the Nord bus station, and two on Plaça de Catalunya. In addition, throughout the summer, young red-jacketed tourist-info helpers appear in the most touristy parts of town; although they work for the hop-on, hop-off Tourist Bus, they are happy to answer questions.
At any TI, pick up the free city map (although the free El Corte Inglés map provided by most hotels is better), the small Metro map, the monthly Barcelona Planning.com guidebook (with basic tips on sightseeing, shopping, events, and restaurants), and the quarterly See Barcelona guide (with more in-depth practical information on museums and a neighborhood-by-neighborhood sightseeing rundown). The monthly Time Out BCN Guide offers a thorough but concise day-by-day list of events. And the monthly Barcelona Metropolitan magazine has timely and substantial coverage of local topics and events. All of these are free.
The TI is a handy place to buy tickets for the Tourist Bus (described later, under “Getting Around Barcelona”) or for the TI-run walking tours (described later, under “Tours in Barcelona”). All of the TIs (except the kiosks) provide a room-booking service. They also sell tickets to FC Barcelona soccer games.
Modernisme Route: Inside the Plaça de Catalunya TI is the privately run Ruta del Modernisme desk, which gives out a handy route map showing all 116 Modernista buildings and offers a sightseeing discount package (€12 for a great guidebook and 20-50-percent discounts to many Modernista sights—worthwhile if going beyond the biggies I cover in depth; for €18 you’ll also get a guidebook to Modernista bars and restaurants; rutadelmodernisme.com).
Regional Catalunya TI: The all-Catalunya TI can help with travel and sightseeing tips for the entire region, and even Madrid (Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, in the Palau Robert near the intersection of Passeig de Gràcia and Diagonal at Passeig de Gràcia 107, tel. 932-388-091, catalunya.com).
Sightseeing Passes: The Articket BCN ticket covers admission to six art museums and their temporary exhibits, letting you skip the ticket-buying lines. Sights include the recommended Picasso Museum, Catalan Art Museum, and Fundació Joan Miró (€30, valid for three months; sold at Plaça de Catalunya, Plaça de Sant Jaume, and Sants train station TIs and at participating museums; articketbcn.org). If you’re planning to go to three or more of the museums, this ticket will save you money and time, especially at sights prone to long lines, such as the Picasso Museum. Just show your Articket BCN (to the ticket taker, at the info desk, or at the group entrance), and you’ll get your entrance ticket pronto.
On the other hand, I’d skip the Barcelona Card, which covers public transportation (buses, Metro, Montjuïc funicular, and golondrinas harbor tour) and includes free admission to mostly minor sights and small discounts on many major sights (€37/2 days, €47/3 days, €56/4 days, €62/5 days, sold at TIs and El Corte Inglés department stores, discounted if you buy online at barcelonaturisme.com).
For more information on getting to or from Barcelona by train, plane, or bus, see “Barcelona Connections,” at the end of this chapter.
By Train: Virtually all trains end up at Barcelona’s Sants train station, west of the Old City (for details on getting downtown from Sants Station, see here). AVE trains from Madrid go only to Sants Station and the Sagrera Station, far to the northeast. But many other trains also pass through other stations en route, such as França Station (between the El Born and Barceloneta neighborhoods), or the downtown Passeig de Gràcia or Plaça de Catalunya stations (which are also Metro stops—and very close to most of my recommended hotels). Figure out which stations your train stops at (ask the conductor), and get off at the one most convenient to your hotel.
By Plane: Most international flights arrive at El Prat de Llobregat Airport, eight miles southwest of town. Some budget airlines, including Ryanair, fly into Girona-Costa Brava Airport, located 60 miles north of Barcelona near Girona. See here for details on connecting either of these airports to central Barcelona.
Theft and Scam Alert: You’re more likely to be pickpocketed here—especially on the Ramblas—than about anywhere else in Europe. Most crime is nonviolent, but muggings do occur. Leave valuables in your hotel and wear a money belt.
Street scams are easy to avoid if you recognize them. Most common is the too-friendly local who tries to engage you in conversation by asking for the time or whether you speak English. If a super-friendly man acts drunk and wants to dance because his soccer team just won, he’s a pickpocket. Beware of thieves posing as lost tourists who ask for your help. Don’t fall for any street-gambling shell games—you can be sure you’ll lose if you play. Also beware of groups of women aggressively selling carnations, people offering to clean off a stain from your shirt, and people picking things up in front of you on escalators. If you stop for any commotion or show on the Ramblas, put your hands in your pockets before someone else does. Assume any scuffle is simply a distraction by a team of thieves. Don’t be intimidated...just be smart.
Personal Safety: Some areas feel seedy and can be unsafe after dark; I’d avoid the southern part of the Barri Gòtic (basically the two or three blocks directly south and east of Plaça Reial—though the strip near the Carrer de la Mercè tapas bars is better), and I wouldn’t venture too deep into the Raval (just west of the Ramblas). One block can separate a comfy tourist zone from the junkies and prostitutes.
Emergency Phone Numbers: General emergencies—112, police—092, ambulance—061 or 112.
Sight Reservations: Several of Barcelona’s top sights can have long lines of up to an hour or more. To avoid needless waiting, you can buy tickets in advance by going online (or in some cases, calling). This is especially smart for the Picasso Museum (see here), Sagrada Família (see here), Casa Batlló (see here), and La Pedrera (see here). An Articket BCN (described on here) allows you to skip the lines at the Picasso Museum, but it doesn’t cover any Gaudí sights. If you want to tour the Palace of Catalan Music, with its oh-wow Modernista interior, you’ll need to reserve it in advance (see here).
Festivals: Major festivals include Festival Grèc, a summer arts festival (June-July, grec.bcn.cat); Montjuïc de Nit, featuring one day of music, cinema, art, theater, and dance (mid-July, bcn.cat/cultura/montjuicnit); and the Festes de Gràcia, an eight-day street party (mid-Aug, festamajordegracia.cat).
Language Barrier: In posted information throughout the city (such as museum descriptions), English plays third fiddle. You’ll see Catalan first, Spanish (castellano) second, and English a distant third...or often not at all. Fortunately, many locals speak English.
Web Addresses: If a website doesn’t work, try replacing the “.com” or “.es” with “.cat”—the web suffix for Catalunya. Many businesses are switching to this.
Internet Access: The free city network, Barcelona WiFi, has hundreds of hotspots around town; just look for the blue diamond-shaped sign with a big “W” (for details, see bcn.cat/barcelonawifi). Navega Web has lots of computers and cheap Internet access (€2/hour); it’s conveniently located across from La Boqueria market, downstairs in the bright Centre Comercial New Park (daily 10:00-24:00, Ramblas 88-94, tel. 933-179-193).
Pharmacy: A 24-hour pharmacy is across from La Boqueria market at #98 on the Ramblas. Another is on the corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Provença, just opposite the entrance to La Pedrera.
Laundry: Several self-service launderettes are located around the Old City. The clean-as-a-whistle LavaXpres is centrally located near recommended Plaça de Catalunya and Ramblas hotels (self-service-€8/load, instructions in English, daily 8:00-22:00, Passatge d’Elisabets 3—see map on here, lavaxpres.com). Wash ’n Dry, just off the Ramblas, is in a seedier neighborhood just down the street past Palau Güell (self-service-€6.50/load, full service-€14.50/load, daily 9:00-23:00, Carrer Nou de la Rambla 19—see map on here, tel. 934-121-953).
Updates to This Book: For updates to this book, check ricksteves.com/update.
Barcelona’s Metro and bus system is run by TMB—Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (tel. 902-075-027, tmb.cat). It’s worth asking for TMB’s excellent Metro/bus map at the TI (not always available).
The city’s Metro, among Europe’s best, connects just about every place you’ll visit. A single-ride ticket (bitlett senzill) costs €2. The T10 Card is a great deal—€9.80 gives you 10 rides (cutting the per-ride cost more than in half). The card is shareable, even by companions traveling with you (insert the card in the machine per passenger). The back of your T10 card will show how many trips were taken, with the time and date of each ride. One “ride” covers you for 1.25 hours of unlimited use on all Metro and local bus lines, as well as local rides on the RENFE and Rodalies de Catalunya train lines (including rides to the airport and train station) and the suburban FGC trains. Transfers made within your 1.25-hour limit are not counted as a new ride, but you still must revalidate your T10 Card whenever you transfer.
Multiday passes are also available (€13.40/2 days, €19.20/3 days, €24.40/4 days, €29/5 days). Machines at the Metro entrance have English instructions and sell all types of tickets (most machines accept credit/debit cards as well as cash).
Whatever type of ticket you use, keep it until you have exited the subway. You don’t need the ticket to go through the exit, but inspectors occasionally ask riders to show it.
Barcelona has several color-coded lines, but most useful for tourists is the L3 (green) line. Handy city-center stops on this line include (in order):
Sants Estació—Main train station
Espanya—Plaça d’Espanya, with access to the lower part of Montjuïc and trains to Montserrat
Paral-lel—Funicular to the top of Montjuïc
Drassanes—Bottom of the Ramblas, near Maritime Museum and Maremagnum mall
Liceu—Middle of the Ramblas, near the heart of the Barri Gòtic and cathedral
Plaça de Catalunya—Top of the Ramblas and main square with TI, airport bus, and lots of transportation connections
Passeig de Gràcia—Classy Eixample street at the Block of Discord; also connection to L2 (purple) line to Sagrada Família and L4 (yellow) line (described below)
Diagonal—Gaudí’s La Pedrera
The L4 (yellow) line, which crosses the L3 (green) line at Passeig de Gràcia, is also useful. Helpful stops include Joanic (bus #116 to Park Güell), Jaume I (between the Barri Gòtic/cathedral and El Born/Picasso Museum), and Barceloneta (at the south end of El Born, near the harbor action).
Before riding the Metro, study a map (available at TIs and posted at entrances) to get familiar with the system. Look for your line number and color, and find the end stop for your direction of travel. Enter the Metro by inserting your ticket into the turnstile (with the arrow pointing in), then reclaim it. Then, follow signs for your line and direction. On board, most trains have handy lighted displays that indicate upcoming destinations. Because the lines cross one another multiple times, there can be several ways to make any one journey. (It’s a good idea to keep a general map with you—especially if you’re transferring.)
Watch your valuables. If I were a pickpocket, I’d set up shop along the made-for-tourists L3 (green) line.
Given the excellent Metro service, it’s unlikely you’ll take a local bus (also €2, covered by T10 Card, insert ticket in machine behind driver), although I’ve noted places where the bus makes sense. In particular, buses are useful for reaching Park Güell or the beach, and for connecting the sights on Montjuïc.
The handy hop-on, hop-off Tourist Bus (Bus Turístic) offers three multi-stop circuits in colorful double-decker buses that go topless in sunny weather. The two-hour blue route covers north Barcelona (most Gaudí sights); the two-hour red route covers south Barcelona (Barri Gòtic, Montjuïc); and the shorter, 40-minute green route covers the beaches and modern Fòrum complex (this route runs April-Oct only). All have headphone commentary (daily 9:00-20:00 in summer, 9:00-19:00 in winter, buses run every 5-25 minutes, most frequent in summer, barcelonabusturistic.cat). Ask for a brochure (includes city map) at the TI or at a pick-up point. One-day (€26) and two-day (€34) tickets, which you can buy on the bus or at the TI, offer 10 to 20 percent discounts on the city’s major sights and walking tours, which will likely save you about the equivalent of half the cost of the Tourist Bus. From Plaça de Catalunya, the blue northern route leaves from El Corte Inglés; the red southern route leaves from the west—Ramblas—side of the square. A different company, Barcelona City Tour, offers a nearly identical service (same price and discounts, two loops instead of three, barcelonacitytour.cat).
Barcelona is one of Europe’s best taxi towns. Taxis are plentiful (there are more than 11,000) and honest, whether they like it or not. The light on top shows which tariff they’re charging; a green light on the roof indicates that a taxi is available. Cab rates are reasonable (€2.50 drop charge, €1/kilometer, these “Tarif 2” rates are in effect 8:00-20:00, pay higher “Tarif 1” rates off-hours, luggage-€1/piece, €2.10 surcharge to/from train station, €4.20 surcharge for airport or cruise port, other fees posted in window). Save time by hopping a cab (figure €10 from Ramblas to Sants Station).
The TI at Plaça de Sant Jaume offers great guided walks through the Barri Gòtic in English. You’ll learn the medieval story of the city as you walk from Plaça de Sant Jaume through the cathedral neighborhood (€15, daily at 9:30, 2 hours, groups limited to 35, buy your ticket 15 minutes early at the TI desk—not from the guide, in summer stop by the office a day ahead to reserve, tel. 932-853-832, barcelonaturisme.cat).
The TI at Plaça de Catalunya offers a Picasso walk, taking you through the streets of his youth and early career and finishing in the Picasso Museum (€21, includes museum admission; Tue, Thu, and Sat at 15:00; 2 hours including museum visit). There are also gourmet walks (€21, Fri and Sat at 10:00, 2 hours), Modernisme walks (€15, Fri and Sat June-Sept at 18:00, 2 hours), and a Maritime tour that includes a golondrinas boat trip on the harbor (€19, Fri and Sat at 10:00, 2 hours). Other themes include literary Barcelona, the Spanish Civil War, and movie locations (drop by the office for a full list). These tours depart from the TI at Plaça de Catalunya (except the Maritime tour, which begins at the Columbus Monument); it’s always smart to reserve in advance.
The Ruta del Modernisme desk inside the Plaça de Catalunya TI also does tours of specific Modernista buildings that are otherwise not open to the public (see here).
Several companies offer “free” walks that rely on—and expect—tips to stay in business. Though led by young people who’ve basically memorized a clever script (rather than trained historians), these walks can be a fun, casual way to get your bearings.
I like Runner Bean Tours, run by Gorka, Ann-Marie, and a handful of local guides. They offer 2.5-hour, English-only walks covering the Old City and Gaudí (both tours depart from Plaça Reial at 11:00 daily year-round, plus daily at 16:30 in April-Oct, runnerbeantours.com, mobile 636-108-776). They also do night tours, family walks, and more. Groups can range from just a couple of people up to 30.
Discover Walks does similar tours, with three different two-hour itineraries: Gaudí (daily at 10:30, meet in front of Casa Batlló); Ramblas and Barri Gòtic (daily at 15:00, meet in front of Liceu Opera House on the Ramblas); and Picasso’s Barcelona, covering the El Born neighborhood (daily at 17:00, meet at Plaça de l’Angel next to Jaume I Metro stop). This company distinguishes itself by using exclusively native-born guides—no expats (suggested tips: €5/person for a bad guide, €10 for a good one, €15 for a great one, discoverwalks.com, tel. 931-816-810).
The Barcelona Guide Bureau is a co-op with about 20 local guides who give personalized four-hour tours; Joana Wilhelm and Carles Picazo are excellent (€102/person for 2, €53/person for 4, per-person price continues to drop as group gets bigger, these prices include public-transportation costs, Via Laietana 54, tel. 932-682-422 or 933-107-778, bgb.es).
José Soler is a great and fun-to-be-with local guide who enjoys tailoring a walk through his hometown to your interests (€195/half-day per group, mobile 615-059-326, pepitotours.com, info@pepitotours.com). He can also take up to six people by car for a four-hour Barcelona Highlights tour (€395) and will meet you at the cruise port or airport.
Cristina Sanjuán of Live Barcelona is another good, professional guide who leads walking tours and can also arrange cruise excursions. It’s best to reserve by email (€155/2 hours, €20/each additional hour; €195 extra for a car for up to 2 people, €220 extra for up to 6, can combine with airport transfer; tel. 936-327-259, mobile 609-205-844, livebarcelona.com, info@livebarcelona.com).
The Barcelona Guide Bureau offers several sightseeing tours leaving from Plaça de Catalunya. Departure times can change. Tours are designed to end at a major sight in case you’d like to spend more time there. The Gaudí tour visits Casa Batlló and Sagrada Família, as well as the facade of La Pedrera (€62, includes Sagrada Família and Casa Batllò admission, daily at 9:00, 3.5 hours). Other tours offered year-round include the Montjuïc tour (€33, includes Spanish Village admission, daily at 12:30, 2.5 hours) and the All Barcelona Highlights tour (€59, includes Sagrada Família and Spanish Village admissions, daily at 10:00, also mid-April-Oct at 12:30, 5 hours). During the high season, there are additional Gaudí-focused tours, Ramblas walks, shopping tours, and a Fundació Joan Miró tour. You can get detailed information and book tickets at a TI, on their website (10 percent discount for 7-day advance purchase), or simply by showing up at their departure point on Plaça de Catalunya in front of the Deutsche Bank (next to the Hard Rock Café—look for the guides holding orange umbrellas; tel. 933-152-261, barcelonaguidebureau.com).
For information on hop-on, hop-off bus tours, see “Getting Around Barcelona,” earlier.
Several companies run bike tours around Barcelona.
Un Cotxe Menys (“One Car Less”) organizes three-hour English-only bike tours daily at 11:00 year-round (April-mid-Sept also Fri-Mon at 16:30). Your guide leads you from sight to sight, mostly on bike paths and through parks, with a stop-and-go commentary (€22 includes bike rental and drink, no reservations needed, tours meet just outside TI on Plaça Sant Jaume in Barri Gòtic—or, 10 minutes later, at their bike shop in El Born near the Church of Santa Maria del Mar; Carrer de l’Esparteria 3—see map on here, tel. 932-682-105, bicicletabarcelona.com). The bike shop also rents bikes (€5/hour, €10/4 hours, €15/24 hours, daily 10:00-19:00, leave €150 or photo ID for deposit).
Barcelona CicloTour runs a similar itinerary (€22, departs from Hard Rock Café on Plaça de Catalunya daily at 11:00, 16:30 tour daily mid-April-Oct and Sat-Sun in Nov; 19:30 night tour departs Fri-Sun June-Sept and Fri-Sat in Oct; tel. 933-171-970, barcelonaciclotour.com).
Andy Steves (my son) runs Weekend Student Adventures, offering active and experiential three-day weekend tours from €199, designed for American students studying abroad (wsaeurope.com for details on tours of Barcelona and other great cities).
These walks through the atmospheric Old City introduce you to places you may want to explore further. They’re easy to follow, pass by some major sights, and provide background to this complex metropolis. The first begins at Barcelona’s main square and leads you down the city’s main drag: the Ramblas. The second walk guides you into the heart of the Barri Gòtic, the neighborhood around Barcelona’s cathedral.
For more than a century, this walk down Barcelona’s main boulevard has drawn locals and visitors alike. While its former elegance has been tackified somewhat by tourist shops and fast-food joints, this still has the best people-watching in town. Walk the Ramblas at least once to get the lay of the land, then venture farther afield. It’s a one-hour, level stroll, with an easy return by Metro. The Ramblas is two different streets by day and by night; stroll it from top to bottom in the evening and again the next morning, grabbing breakfast on a stool in a market café.
The word “Ramblas” is plural; the street is actually a succession of five separately named segments. But street signs and addresses treat it as a single long street—“La Rambla,” singular. On this pedestrian-only Champs-Elysées, you’ll raft the river of Barcelonese life, passing a grand opera house, elegant cafés, flower stands, retread prostitutes, brazen pickpockets, power-dressing con men, artists, street mimes, an outdoor pet market, great shopping, and people looking to charge more for a shoeshine than what you paid for the shoes.
• Start your ramble on Plaça de Catalunya, at the top of the Ramblas.
Plaça de Catalunya: Dotted with fountains, statues, and pigeons, and ringed by grand Art Deco buildings, this plaza is Barcelona’s center. The square’s stern, straight lines are a reaction to the curves of Modernisme (which predominates in the Eixample district, just to the north). Plaça de Catalunya is the hub for the Metro, bus, airport shuttle, and Tourist Bus. It’s where Barcelona congregates to watch soccer matches on the big screen, to demonstrate, to celebrate, and to enjoy outdoor concerts and festivals. It’s the center of the world for the Catalan people.
Geographically, the 12-acre square links old Barcelona (the narrow streets to the south) with the new (the broad boulevards to the north). Four great thoroughfares radiate from here. The Ramblas is the popular pedestrian promenade. Passeig de Gràcia has fashionable shops and cafés (and noisy traffic). Rambla de Catalunya is equally fashionable but cozier and more pedestrian-friendly. Avinguda Portal de l’Angel (shopper-friendly and traffic-free) leads to the Barri Gòtic (note that my self-guided “Barri Gòtic Walk” begins from right here).
Historically, Plaça de Catalunya links the modern city with its past. In the 1850s, when Barcelona tore down its medieval walls to expand the city, this square on the edge of the walls was one of the first places to be developed.
At the Ramblas end of the square, the odd, inverted-staircase monument represents the shape of Catalunya and honors one of its former presidents, Francesc Macià i Llussà, who declared independence for the breakaway region in 1931. (It didn’t quite stick.) Sculptor Josep Maria Subirachs, whose work you’ll see at the Sagrada Família (see here), designed it.
The venerable Café Zürich, just across the street from the monument, is a popular downtown rendezvous spot for locals. Homesick Americans might prefer the nearby Hard Rock Café.
• Cross the street and start heading down the Ramblas. To get oriented, pause 20 yards down, at the ornate lamppost with a fountain as its base (on the right, near #129).
Fountain of Canaletes: The black-and-gold fountain has been a local favorite for more than a century. When Barcelona tore down its medieval wall and transformed the Ramblas from a drainage ditch into an elegant promenade, this fountain was one of its early attractions. Legend says that a drink from the fountain ensures that you’ll come back to Barcelona one day. Watch the tourists—eager to guarantee a return trip—struggle with the awkwardly high water pressure. It’s still a popular let’s-meet-at-the-fountain rendezvous spot and a gathering place for celebrations and demonstrations. Fans of the Barcelona soccer team rally here before a big match—some touch their hand to their lips, then “kiss” the fountain with their hand for good luck. It’s also a good spot to fill up your water bottle.
• Continue strolling.
All along the Ramblas are newsstands (open 24 hours). Among their souvenirs, you’ll see soccer paraphernalia, especially the scarlet-and-blue of FC Barcelona (known as “Barça”). The team is owned by its more than 170,000 “members”—fans who buy season tickets, which come with a share of ownership (the team’s healthy payroll guarantees that they’re always in contention). Their motto, “More than a club” (Mes que un club), suggests that Barça represents not only athletic prowess but Catalan cultural identity. This comes to a head during a match nicknamed “El Clásico,” in which they face their bitter rivals, Real Madrid (whom many Barça fans view as stand-ins for Castilian cultural chauvinism).
Walk 100 yards farther to #115 and the venerable Royal Academy of Science and Arts building (it’s now home to a performing-arts theater). Look up: The clock high on the facade marks official Barcelona time—synchronize. Notice the TI kiosk right on the Ramblas—a handy stop for any questions. The Carrefour supermarket just behind it has cheap groceries (at #113, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Sun).
• You’re now standing at the...
Rambla of the Little Birds: Traditionally, kids brought their parents here to buy pets, especially on Sundays. But animal-rights groups lobbied to cut back on the stalls because so many families were making impulse buys with no serious interest in taking care of these cute little critters—and many ended up being flushed. Today, only a couple of traditional pet stalls survive—and there’s not a bird in sight. Now you’ll find tourists oohing and aahing over little bunnies, hamsters, goldfish, and turtles—easier for Barcelona’s apartment-dwellers to care for than dogs and cats.
• At #122 (the big, modern Citadines Hotel on the left, just behind a pet kiosk), take a 100-yard detour through a passageway marked Passatge de la Ramblas to a recently discovered...
Roman Necropolis: Look down and imagine a 2,000-year-old tomb-lined road. In Roman cities, tombs (outside the walls) typically lined the roads leading into town. Emperor Augustus spent a lot of time in modern-day Spain conquering new land, so the Romans were sure to incorporate Hispania into the empire’s infrastructure. This road, Via Augusta, led into the Roman port of Barcino (today’s highway to France still follows the route laid out by this Roman thoroughfare). Looking down at these ruins, you can see how Roman Barcino was about 10 feet lower than today’s street level. For more on this city’s Roman chapter, follow my “Barri Gòtic Walk,” later.
• Return to the Ramblas and continue 100 yards or so to the next street, Carrer de la Portaferrissa (across from the big church). Turn left a few steps and look right to see the decorative tile over a fountain still in use by locals. The scene shows the original city wall with the gate that once stood here and the action on what is today’s Ramblas. Now cross the boulevard to the front of the big church.
Betlem Church: It’s dedicated to Bethlehem, and for centuries locals have flocked here at Christmastime to see Nativity scenes. The church is 17th-century Baroque: Check out the sloping roofline, ball-topped pinnacles, corkscrew columns, and scrolls above the entrance. The Baroque and also Renaissance styles are relatively unusual in Barcelona because it missed out on several centuries of architectural development. Barcelona enjoyed two heydays: during the medieval period (before the Renaissance) and during the turn of the 20th century (after Baroque). In between those periods, from about 1500 until 1850, the city’s importance dropped—first, New World discoveries shifted lucrative trade to ports on the Atlantic, and then the Spanish crown kept unruly Catalunya on a short leash.
For a sweet treat, head around to the narrow lane on the far side of the church (running parallel to the Ramblas) to the recommended Café Granja Viader, which has specialized in baked and dairy delights since 1870. Step inside to see Viader family photos and early posters advertising Cacaolat—the local chocolate milk Barcelonans love. (For more sugary treats nearby, follow “A Short, Sweet Walk” on here.)
• Continue down the boulevard, through the stretch called the...
Rambla of Flowers: This colorful block, lined with flower stands, is the Rambla of Flowers. Besides admiring the blossoms on display, gardeners will covet the seeds sold here for varieties of radishes, greens, peppers, and beans seldom seen in the US—including the iconic green Padrón pepper of tapas fame (if you buy seeds, you’re obligated to declare them at US customs when returning home). On the left, at #100, Gimeno sells cigars. Step inside and appreciate the dying art of cigar boxes. Go ahead, do something forbidden in America but perfectly legal here...buy a Cuban (little singles for €1). Tobacco shops sell stamps and phone cards, plus bongs and marijuana gear—the Spanish approach to pot is very casual. While people can’t legally sell marijuana, they’re allowed to grow it for personal use and consume it.
• Continue to the Metro stop marked by the red M. At #91 (on the right) is the arcaded entrance to Barcelona’s great covered market, La Boqueria. If this main entry is choked with visitors (as it often is), you can skirt around the sides by entering one block in either direction (look for the round arches that mark passages into the market colonnade).
La Boqueria: This lively market hall is an explosion of chicken legs, bags of live snails, stiff fish, delicious oranges, odd odors, and sleeping dogs. The best day for a visit is Saturday, when the market is thriving. It’s closed on Sundays, and locals avoid it on Mondays, when it’s open but (they believe) vendors are selling items that aren’t necessarily fresh—especially seafood, since fishermen stay home on Sundays.
Since as far back as 1200, Barcelonans have bought their animal parts here. The market was originally located by the walled city’s entrance, as many medieval markets were (since it was more expensive to trade within the walls). It later expanded into the colonnaded courtyard of a now-gone monastery before being topped with a colorful arcade in 1850.
While tourists are drawn like moths to a flame to the area around the main entry (below the colorful stained-glass sign), locals know that the stalls up front pay the highest rent—and therefore have to inflate their prices and cater to out-of-towners. For example, the juices along the main drag just inside the entrance are tempting, but if you venture to the right a couple of alleys, the clientele gets more local and the prices drop dramatically.
Stop by the recommended Pinotxo Bar—it’s just inside the market, under the sign—and snap a photo of Juan. Animated Juan and his family are always busy feeding shoppers. Getting Juan to crack a huge smile and a thumbs-up for your camera makes a great shot...and he loves it. The stools nearby are a fine perch for enjoying both your coffee and the people-watching.
The market and lanes nearby are busy with tempting little eateries (several are listed on here). Drop by a café for an espresso con leche or breakfast tortilla española (potato omelet). Once you get past the initial gauntlet, do some exploring. The small square on the north side of the market hosts a farmers’ market in the mornings. Wander around—as local architect Antoni Gaudí used to—and gain inspiration.
• Head back out to the street and continue down the Ramblas.
It’s clear that, as you walk the Ramblas, you’re skirting along the west boundary of the old Barri Gòtic neighborhood. As you walk, glance to the left through a modern archway for a glimpse of the medieval church tower of Santa Maria del Pi, a popular venue for concerts (see here). This also marks Plaça del Pi and a great shopping street, Carrer Petritxol, which runs parallel to the Ramblas.
Now look across to the other side of the Ramblas. At the corner, find the highly regarded Escribà bakery, with its fine Modernista facade and interior (look for the Antigua Casa Figueras sign arching over the doorway). Notice the beautiful mosaics of twining plants, the stained-glass peacock displaying his tail feathers, and the undulating woodwork. In the sidewalk in front of the door, a plaque dates the building to 1902 (plaques like this identify historic shops all over town).
• After another block, you reach the Liceu Metro station, marking the...
Heart of the Ramblas (Liceu): At the Liceu Metro station’s elevators, the Ramblas widens a bit into a small, lively square (Plaça de la Boqueria). Liceu marks the midpoint of the Ramblas, halfway between Plaça de Catalunya and the waterfront.
Underfoot in the center of the Ramblas, find the much-trod-upon red-white-yellow-and-blue mosaic by homegrown abstract artist Joan Miró. The mosaic’s black arrow represents an anchor, a reminder of the city’s attachment to the sea. Miró’s simple, colorful designs are found all over the city, from murals to mobiles to the La Caixa bank logo. The best place in Barcelona to see his work is in the Fundació Joan Miró at Montjuïc (see here).
The surrounding buildings have playful ornamentation typical of the city. The Chinese dragon holding a lantern (at #82) decorates a former umbrella shop (notice the fun umbrella mosaics high up). While the dragon may seem purely decorative, it’s actually an important symbol of Catalan pride for its connection to the local patron saint, St. Jordi (George).
Hungry? Swing around the back of the umbrella shop to the recommended Taverna Basca Irati tapas bar (a block up Carrer del Cardenal Casanyes). This is one of many user-friendly, Basque-style tapas bars in town; instead of ordering, you can just grab or point to what looks good on the display platters, then pay per piece.
Back on the Ramblas, a few steps down (on the right) is the Liceu Opera House (Gran Teatre del Liceu), which hosts world-class opera, dance, and theater (box office around the right side, open Mon-Fri 13:30-20:00). Opposite the opera house is Café de l’Opera (#74), an elegant stop for an expensive beverage. This bustling café, with Modernista decor and a historic atmosphere, boasts that it’s been open since 1929, even during the civil war.
• We’ve seen the best stretch of the Ramblas; to cut this walk short, you could catch the Metro back to Plaça de Catalunya. Otherwise, let’s continue to the port. The wide, straight street that crosses the Ramblas in another 30 yards (Carrer de Ferran) leads left to Plaça de Sant Jaume, the government center.
Head down the Ramblas another 50 yards (to #46), and turn left down an arcaded lane (Correr de Colom) to the square called...
Plaça Reial: Dotted with palm trees, surrounded by an arcade, and ringed by yellow buildings with white Neoclassical trim, this elegant square has a colonial ambience. It comes complete with old-fashioned taverns, modern bars with patio seating, and a Sunday coin-and-stamp market (10:00-14:00). Completing the picture are Gaudí’s first public works (the two colorful helmeted lampposts). While this used to be a seedy and dangerous part of town, recent gentrification efforts have given it new life, making it inviting and accessible. (The small streets stretching toward the water from the square remain a bit sketchier.) It’s a lively hangout by day or by night. Big spaces like this (as well as the site of La Boqueria market) often originated as monasteries. When these were dissolved in the 19th century, their fine colonnaded squares were incorporated into what were considered generally more useful public spaces.
Head back out to the Ramblas. Across the boulevard, a half-block detour down Carrer Nou de la Rambla brings you to Palau Güell, designed by Antoni Gaudí (on the left, at #3-5). Even from the outside, you get a sense of this innovative apartment, the first of Gaudí’s Modernista buildings. As this is early Gaudí (built 1886-1890), it’s darker and more Neo-Gothic than his more famous later work. The two parabolic-arch doorways and elaborate wrought-iron work signal his emerging nonrectangular style. Recently renovated, Palau Güell offers an informative look at a Gaudí interior (see listing on here). Pablo Picasso had a studio at #10 (though there’s nothing to see there today).
• Proceed along the Ramblas.
Raval Neighborhood (Barri Xines): The neighborhood on the right-hand side of this stretch of the Ramblas is El Raval. Its nickname was Barri Xines—the world’s only Chinatown with nothing even remotely Chinese in or near it. Named for the prejudiced notion that Chinese immigrants went hand-in-hand with poverty, prostitution, and drug dealing, the neighborhood’s actual inhabitants were poor Spanish, North African, and Roma (Gypsy) people. At night, the Barri Xines was frequented by prostitutes, many of them transvestites, who catered to sailors wandering up from the port. Today, it’s becoming gentrified, but it’s still a pretty rough neighborhood.
At about this part of the Ramblas, you may see the first of the drag’s medley of surreal and goofy human statues. These performers—with creative and elaborate costumes—must audition and be registered by the city government; to avoid overcrowding, only 15 can work along the Ramblas at any one time. To enliven your Ramblas ramble, stroll with a pocket full of small change. As you wander along, drop coins into their cans (the money often kicks them into entertaining gear). Warning: Wherever people stop to gawk, pickpockets are at work.
You’re also likely to see some good old-fashioned shell games in this part of town. Stand back and observe these nervous no-necks at work. They swish around their little boxes, making sure to show you the pea. Their shills play and win. Then, in hopes of making easy money, fools lose big time.
Near the bottom of the Ramblas, take note of the Drassanes Metro stop, which can take you back to Plaça de Catalunya when this walk is over. The skyscraper to the right of the Ramblas is the Edificio Colón. When it was built in 1970, the 28-story structure was Barcelona’s first high-rise. Near the skyscraper is the Maritime Museum, housed in what were the city’s giant medieval shipyards (permanent collection closed until late 2014; see listing on here).
• Up ahead is the...
Columbus Monument: The 200-foot column commemorates Christopher Columbus’ stop in Barcelona after his first trip to America (see listing on here).
Continue ahead to the waterfront. Barcelona is one of Europe’s top 10 ports, though this stretch of the harbor is a pleasant marina with sailboats.
Stand here and survey some of your sightseeing options: At your feet are the golondrinas harbor cruise boats (here). Across the harbor (though not really visible from here) is the spit of land called Barceloneta, home to some nice restaurants and sandy beaches (see here). To the right of the harbor rises the majestic, 570-foot bluff of Montjuïc, a park-like setting dotted with a number of sights and museums (see here).
The pedestrian bridge jutting into the harbor is a modern extension of the Ramblas called La Rambla del Mar (“Rambla of the Sea”). This popular wooden bridge—with waves like the sea—leads to Maremagnum, a shopping mall with a cinema, a huge aquarium, restaurants, and piles of people. Late at night, it’s a rollicking youth hangout.
• Your ramble is over. If it’s a nice day, consider strolling the promenade and looping back around on La Rambla del Mar. Or maybe explore El Born. Or, if you’re truly on vacation, walk through Barceloneta to the beach.
If you’d like to get to other points in town, your best bet is to backtrack to the Drassanes Metro stop. Alternatively, you can catch buses #14 or #59 from along the top of the promenade to Plaça de Catalunya.
Barcelona’s Barri Gòtic, or Gothic Quarter, is a bustling world of shops, bars, and nightlife packed into narrow, winding lanes and undiscovered courtyards. This is Barcelona’s birthplace—where the ancient Romans built a city, where medieval Christians built their cathedral, and where Barcelonans lived within a ring of protective walls until the 1850s, when the city expanded.
Today, this area—nicknamed simply “El Gòtic”—is Barcelona’s most historic neighborhood. Concentrate on the area around the cathedral (since the section near the port is somewhat dull and seedy). The Barri Gòtic is a tangled-yet-inviting grab bag of grand squares, schoolyards, Art Nouveau storefronts, musty junk shops, classy antique shops (on Carrer de la Palla), street musicians strumming Catalan folk songs, and balconies with domestic jungles behind wrought-iron bars. Go on a cultural scavenger hunt. Write a poem. Take artsy pictures. This self-guided walk gives you a structure, covering the major sights and offering a historical overview before you get lost.
• Start on Barcelona’s grand, main square, Plaça de Catalunya (described on here). From the southeast corner (near El Corte Inglés), head down the broad pedestrian boulevard called...
Avinguda Portal de l’Angel: For much of Barcelona’s history, this was one of the main boulevards leading into town. A medieval wall enclosed the city, and there was an entrance here—the “Gate of the Angel”—that gives the street its name. An angel statue atop the gate kept the city safe from plagues and bid voyagers safe journey as they left the security of the city. Imagine the fascinating scene here at the Gate of the Angel, where Barcelona stopped and the wilds began.
Today’s street is pretty globalized and sanitized, full of international chain stores. Pause at Carrer de Santa Anna to admire the Art Nouveau awning at (another) El Corte Inglés store.
• A half-block detour to the right on Carrer de Santa Anna (at #32) leads to a pleasant, flower-fragrant courtyard with the...
Church of Santa Anna: This 12th-century gem was one of those extra muro churches, with its marker cross still standing outside. As part of a convent, the church has a fine cloister, an arcaded walkway around a leafy courtyard (viewable through the gate to the left of the church). Climb the modern stairs for views of the bell tower.
If the church is open, you’ll see a bare Romanesque interior and Greek-cross floor plan, topped with an octagonal wooden roof. The recumbent-knight tomb is of Miguel de Boera, renowned admiral of Charles V. The door at the far end of the nave leads to the cloister (€2 donation requested, church hours vary but usually daily 11:00-19:00).
• Backtrack to Avinguda Portal de l’Angel. At Carrer de Montsió (on the left), side-trip half a block to...
Els Quatre Gats (“The Four Cats”): This restaurant (at #3) is a historic monument, tourist attraction, nightspot, and one of my recommended eateries. It’s famous for being the circa-1900 bohemian-artist hangout where Picasso nursed drinks with friends and had his first one-man show (in 1900). The building itself, by prominent architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, represents Neo-Gothic Modernisme. Stepping inside, you feel the turn-of-the-century vibe. Rich Barcelona elites and would-be avant-garde artists looked to Paris, not Madrid, for cultural inspiration. Consequently, this place was clearly inspired by the Paris scene (especially Le Chat Noir cabaret/café, the hangout of Montmartre intellectuals). Like Le Chat Noir, Els Quatre Gats even published its own artsy magazine for a while. The story of the name? When the proprietor told his friends that he’d stay open 24 hours a day, they said, “No one will come. It’ll just be you and four cats” (Catalan slang for “a few crazy people”). While you can have a snack, meal, or drink here, if you just want to look around, ask, “Solo mirar, por favor?”
• Return to Avinguda Portal de l’Angel and continue down the street until you run into a building at a fork in the road, with a...
Fountain: The fountain’s blue-and-yellow tilework depicts ladies carrying jugs of water. In the 17th century, this was the last watering stop for horses before leaving town. As recently as 1940, one in nine Barcelonans got their water from fountains like this. It’s still used today.
• Take the left fork, passing by the Reial Cercle Artistic Museum (temporary exhibits). Enter the large square called...
Plaça Nova: Two bold Roman towers flank the main street. These once guarded the entrance gate of the ancient Roman city of Barcino. The big stones that make up the base of the (reconstructed) towers are actually Roman. At the base, find the modern bronze letters spelling out “BARCINO.” The city’s name may have come from Barca, one of Hannibal’s generals, who is said to have passed through during Hannibal’s roundabout invasion of Italy. At Barcino’s peak, the Roman wall (see the section stretching to the left of the towers) was 25 feet high and a mile around, with 74 towers. It enclosed an area of 30 acres—population 4,000.
One of the towers has a section of Roman aqueduct (a modern reconstruction). These bridges of stone carried fresh water from the distant hillsides into the walled city. Here the water supply split into two channels, one to feed Roman industry, the other for the general populace. The Roman aqueducts would be the best water system Barcelona would have until the 20th century.
Opposite the towers is the modern Catalan College of Architects building (TI inside) with a frieze designed by Picasso (1960). In Picasso’s distinctive, simplified style, it shows branch-waving kings and children celebrating a local festival. Picasso spent his formative years (1895-1904, ages 14-23) in the Barri Gòtic. He had a studio a block east of here (where the big Caixa Catalunya building stands today). He drank with fellow bohemians at Els Quatre Gats (which we just passed) and frequented brothels a few blocks south of here on Carrer d’Avinyo (“Avignon”), which inspired his seminal Cubist painting Les Demoiselles d’Avignon. Picasso’s Barri Gòtic was a hotbed of trendsetting art, propelling Picasso forward just before he moved to Paris and remade modern art.
• Now head to the left and take in the mighty facade of the...
Cathedral of Barcelona (Catedral de Barcelona): This location has been the center of Christian worship since the fourth century, and this particular building dates (mainly) from the 14th century. The facade is a virtual catalog of Gothic motifs: a pointed arch over the entrance, robed statues, tracery in windows, gargoyles, and bell towers with winged angels. The style is French Flamboyant (meaning “flame-like”), and the roofline sports the prickly spires meant to give the impressions of a church flickering with spiritual fires. The facade is typically Gothic...but not medieval. It’s a Neo-Gothic work from the 19th century. The area in front of the cathedral is where they dance the sardana (patriotic dance in which proud Catalans join hands in a circle; takes place every Sun at 12:00, usually also Sat at 18:00, no dances in Aug). Standing in front of the Barcelona cathedral, if you look left, you can see the colorful swooping roof of the Santa Caterina Market (described on here).
The cathedral’s interior—with its vast size, peaceful cloister, and many ornate chapels—is worth a visit. For specifics, see the listing on here.
• The Frederic Marès Museum (see here for details) is just to the left of the cathedral. But for now, return to the Roman towers. Pass between the towers up Carrer del Bisbe, and take an immediate left, up the ramp to the entrance of the...
Casa de l’Ardiaca (Archivo): It’s free to enter this mansion, which was once the archdeacon’s house and today functions as the city archives. The elaborately carved doorway is Renaissance. To the right of the doorway is a carved mail slot by 19th-century Modernist architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. Enter through a small courtyard with a fountain. Notice how the century-old palm tree seems to be held captive by urban man. Next, step inside the lobby of the city archives, where there are often free temporary exhibits. At the left end of the lobby, step through the archway and look down into the stairwell—this is the back side of the ancient Roman wall. Back in the courtyard, head up to the balcony for closer views of the cathedral steeple and gargoyles.
• Return to Carrer del Bisbe and turn left. After a few steps you reach a small square with a bronze statue ensemble.
Martyrs Statue: Five Barcelona patriots calmly receive their last rites before being garroted (strangled) for resisting Napoleon’s 1809 invasion of Spain. They’d been outraged by French atrocities in Madrid (depicted in Goya’s Third of May painting in Madrid’s Prado Museum). The plaque marking their mortal remains says these martyrs to independence gave their lives “por Dios, por la Patria, y por el Rey”—for God, country, and king.
The plaza offers interesting views of the cathedral’s towers. The doorway here is the (not-always-open) “back door” entrance to the cathedral (at the cloister), letting you avoid the long lines at the cathedral’s main entrance.
• Exit the square down tiny Carrer de Montjuïc del Bisbe. This leads to the cute...
Plaça Sant Felip Neri: This shady square serves as the playground of an elementary school and is often bursting with youthful energy. The Church of Sant Felip Neri, which Gaudí attended, is still pocked with bomb damage from the civil war. As a stronghold of democratic, anti-Franco forces, Barcelona saw a lot of fighting. The shrapnel that damaged this church was meant for the nearby Catalan government building (Palau de la Generalitat, which we’ll see later on this walk).
The buildings here were paid for by the guilds that powered the local economy. On the corner where you entered the square is the former home of the shoemakers’ guild; today it’s the fun little Shoe Museum (described on here).
• Exit the square down Carrer de Sant Felip Neri. At the T-intersection, you have a choice:
You can turn left, returning to the square with the Martyrs Statue, then turn right, walking along Carrer del Bisbe to the bridge (described later).
Or if you’re curious about the Jewish chapter of Barcelona’s story, turn right at the T-intersection onto Carrer de Sant Sever, then immediately left on Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call (look for the blue El Call sign). You’ve entered the...
Jewish Quarter (El Call): In Catalan, a Jewish quarter goes by the name El Call—literally “narrow passage,” for the tight lanes where medieval Jews were forced to live, under the watchful eye of the nearby cathedral. At its peak, some 4,000 Jews were crammed into just a few alleys.
Walk down Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call. You’ll pass (on the right) the Zoen leather workshop and showroom (at #15), where everything is made on the spot, followed by a charming square. At the next lane (Carrer de Marlet), turn right. On the right-hand side is the low-profile entrance to what (most likely) was Barcelona’s main synagogue during the Middle Ages (€2.50 requested donation). The structure dates from the third century, but it was destroyed during a brutal pogrom in 1391. The city’s remaining Jews were expelled in 1492, and artifacts of their culture—including this synagogue—were forgotten for centuries. In the 1980s, a historian tracked down the synagogue using old tax-collector records. Another clue that this was the main synagogue: In accordance with Jewish traditions, it stubbornly faces east (toward Jerusalem), putting it at an angle at odds with surrounding structures. The sparse interior includes access to two small subterranean rooms with Roman walls topped by a medieval Catalan vault. Look through the glass floor to see dyeing vats used for a later shop on this site (run by former Jews who had forcibly been converted to Christianity).
• From the synagogue, start back the way you came but continue straight ahead, onto Carrer de la Fruita. At the T-intersection, turn left, then right, to find your way back to the Martyrs Statue. From here, turn right down Carrer del Bisbe to the...
Carrer del Bisbe Bridge: This Bridge-of-Sighs-like structure connects the Catalan government building on the right with the Catalan president’s residence (ceremonial, not actual). Though the bridge looks medieval, it was constructed in the 1920s by Joan Rubió, who also did the carved ornamentation on the buildings.
It’s a photographer’s dream. Check out the jutting angels on the bridge, the basket-carrying maidens on the president’s house, the gargoyle-like faces on the government building. Zoom in even closer. Find monsters, skulls, goddesses, old men with beards, climbing vines, and coats of arms—a Gothic museum in stone.
• Continue along Carrer del Bisbe to...
Plaça de Sant Jaume (jow-mah): This stately central square of the Barri Gòtic, once the Roman forum, has been the seat of city government for 2,000 years. Today the two top governmental buildings in Catalunya face each other.
For more than six centuries, Palau de la Generalitat has housed the autonomous government of Catalunya. It always flies the Catalan flag (red and yellow stripes) next to the obligatory Spanish one. Above the doorway is Catalunya’s patron saint—St. Jordi (George), slaying the dragon. From these balconies, the nation’s leaders (and soccer heroes) greet the people on momentous days. The square is often the site of demonstrations, from a single aggrieved citizen with a megaphone to riotous thousands.
The Barcelona City Hall (Casa de la Ciutat) sports a statue of the king “Jaume el Conqueridor”—not to be confused with Sant Jaume, the plaza’s namesake (free, open Sun 10:00-13:30). King Jaume I (1208-1276, also called “the Just”) is credited with freeing Barcelona from French control, granting self-government, and setting it on a course to become a major city. He was the driving force behind construction of the Royal Palace (which we’ll see shortly).
Locals treasure the independence these two government buildings represent. In the 20th century, Barcelona opposed the dictator Francisco Franco (who ruled from 1939 to 1975), and Franco retaliated. He abolished the regional government and (effectively) outlawed the Catalan language and customs. Two years after Franco’s death, joyous citizens packed this square to celebrate the return of self-rule.
Look left and right down the main streets branching off the square. Carrer de Ferran (which leads to the Ramblas) is classic Barcelona—lined with ironwork streetlamps and balconies draped with plants.
In ancient Roman days, Plaça de Sant Jaume was the town’s forum, or central square, located at the intersection of the two main streets—the decumanus (Carrer del Bisbe) and the cardus (Carrer de la Llibreteria). The forum’s biggest building was a massive temple of Augustus, which we’ll see next.
• Facing the Generalitat, exit the square to the right, heading uphill on tiny Carrer del Paradís. Follow this street as it turns right. When it swings left, pause at #10, the entrance to the...
Roman Temple of Augustus (Temple Roma d’August): You’re standing at the summit of Mont Tàber. A plaque on the wall says it all: “Mont Tàber, 16.9 meters”—elevation 55 feet. The Barri Gòtic’s highest spot is also marked with a millstone inlaid in the pavement at the doorstep of #10. It was here, atop this lofty summit, that the ancient Romans founded the town of Barcino around 15 B.C. They built a castrum (fort) on the hilltop, protecting the harbor.
Step inside for a peek at the imposing Roman temple. These four huge columns, from the late first century B.C., are as old as Barcelona itself. They were part of the ancient town’s biggest structure, a temple dedicated to the Emperor Augustus, worshipped as a god. These Corinthian columns (with deep fluting and topped with leafy capitals) were the back corner of a 120-foot-long temple that extended from here to the Fòrum (free, good English info, Mon 10:00-14:00, Tue-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-20:00).
• Continue down Carrer del Paridís one block. When you bump into the back end of the cathedral, take a right, and go downhill a block (down Baixada de Santa Clara) until you emerge into a square called...
Plaça del Rei: The buildings that enclose this square once housed Spain’s kings and queens. The central section (topped by a four-story addition) was the core of the Royal Palace. It has a vast hall on the ground floor that served as the throne room and reception room. From the 13th to the 15th century, the Royal Palace housed Catalunya’s counts as well as resident Spanish kings. In 1493, a triumphant Christopher Columbus, accompanied by six New World natives (whom he called “Indians”) and several pure-gold statues, entered the Royal Palace. King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel rose to welcome him home and honored him with the title “Admiral of the Oceans.”
To the right is the palace’s church, the Chapel of St. Agatha. It sits atop the foundations of the Roman wall.
To the left is the Viceroy’s Palace (for the ruler’s right-hand man), which also served as the archives of the Kingdom of Aragon. After Catalunya became part of Spain in the 15th century, the Royal Palace became a small regional residence, and the Viceroy’s Palace became the headquarters of the local Inquisition. Today the Viceroy’s Palace is once again home to the archives. Step inside to see an impressive Renaissance courtyard, a staircase with coffered wood ceilings, and a temporary exhibit space. Among the archive’s treasures (though it’s rarely on display) is the 1491 Santa Fe Capitulations, a contract between Columbus and the monarchs about his upcoming voyage.
Ironically, Columbus and the Kingdom of Aragon played a role in Barcelona’s decline as an independent kingdom. When Ferdinand of Aragon married Isabel of Castile, Catalunya got swallowed up in greater Spain. Columbus’ discovery of new trade routes made Barcelona’s port less important, and soon the royals moved elsewhere.
The Barcelona History Museum’s entrance is just around the corner from Plaça del Rei (see listing on here). It gives visitors the only peek they’ll get of the palace interior (and there’s disappointingly little to see), but more important, provides a fine way to retrace all the history we’ve seen on this walk—from modern to medieval to the Roman foundations of Barcino.
• Your walk is over. It’s easy to get your bearings by backtracking to either Plaça de Sant Jaume or the cathedral. The Jaume I Metro stop is two blocks away (leave the square on Carrer del Veguer and turn left). Or simply wander and enjoy Barcelona at its Gothic best.
In the Barri Gòtic, near the Cathedral
▲Barcelona History Museum (Museu d’Història de Barcelona: Plaça del Rei)
Frederic Marès Museum (Museu Frederic Marès)
Shoe Museum (Museu del Calçat)
▲▲▲Picasso Museum (Museu Picasso)
Map: Picasso Museum--First Floor
▲▲Palace of Catalan Music (Palau de la Música Catalana)
▲Church of Santa Maria del Mar
Chocolate Museum (Museu de la Xocolata)
On the Harborfront, at the Bottom of the Ramblas
▲Maritime Museum (Museu Marítim)
Columbus Monument (Monument a Colóm)
▲Barcelona’s Beach, from Barceloneta to the Fòrum
In the Old City, Just off the Ramblas
More Modernista Sights in the Eixample
▲▲▲Sagrada Família (Holy Family Church)
Olympic and Sports Museum (Museu Olímpic i de l’Esport)
Olympic Stadium (Estadi Olímpic)
▲▲Catalan Art Museum (Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya)
▲Magic Fountains (Font Màgica)
Mies van der Rohe Pavilion (Pabellón Mies van der Rohe)
Spanish Village (Poble Espanyol)
For an interesting route from Plaça de Catalunya to the cathedral neighborhood, see my self-guided walk of the Barri Gòtic (described earlier).
Although Barcelona’s most important church doesn’t rank among Europe’s finest cathedrals (frankly, it barely cracks the top 20), it’s important, easy to visit, and—at certain times of the day—free.
The cathedral’s highlights are its vast nave, rich chapels, tomb of St. Eulàlia, and the oasis-like setting of the cloister. Other sights inside (which you’ll pay separately for) are the elaborately carved choir, the elevator up to the view terrace, and the altarpiece museum.
The spacious church is 300 feet long and 130 feet wide. Tall pillars made of stone blocks support the crisscross vaults. Each round keystone where the arches cross features a different saint. Typical of many Spanish churches, there’s a choir—an enclosed area of wooden seats in the middle of the nave, creating a more intimate space for worship. The Gothic church also has fine stained glass, ironwork chandeliers, a 16th-century organ (left transept), tombstones in the pavement, and an “ambulatory” floor plan, allowing worshippers to amble around to the chapel of their choice.
Cost and Hours: Generally open to visitors Mon-Fri 8:00-19:30, Sat-Sun 8:00-20:00. Free to enter Mon-Sat before 12:45, Sun before 13:45, and daily after 17:15, but you must pay to enter the cathedral’s three minor sights (museum-€2, terrace-€3, choir-€2.50). The church is officially “closed” for a few hours each afternoon (Mon-Sat 13:00-17:00, Sun 14:00-17:00), but you can still get in by paying for the interior sights. These sights have shorter hours than the church itself: museum daily 10:00-19:00; terrace Mon-Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun; choir Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, closes in the afternoon on Sun. Tel. 933-151-554, catedralbcn.org.
Dress Code: The dress code is strictly enforced—no tank tops, shorts, or skirts above the knee.
Getting There: The huge, can’t-miss-it cathedral is in the center of the Barri Gòtic, on Plaça de la Seu, Metro: Jaume I.
Getting In: The main, front door is open most of the time. While it can be crowded, the line generally moves fast. Sometimes you can also enter directly into the cloister around back (through door facing the Martyrs Statue on the small square along Carrer del Bisbe).
WCs: A tiny, semi-private WC is in the center of the cloister.
At this main branch of the city history museum (MUHBA for short), you can walk through the history of Barcelona, with a focus on the city’s Roman roots. Start by watching the nine-minute introductory video in the small theater (at the end of the first floor); it plays alternately in Catalan, Spanish, and English, but it’s worth viewing in any language. Then take an elevator down 65 feet (and 2,000 years—see the date spin back while you descend) to stroll the streets of Roman Barcino—founded by Emperor Augustus around 10 B.C. While posted information is only in Catalan and Spanish, you’ll find abundant English handouts, and the included English audioguide provides informative, if dry, descriptions of the exhibits.
Cost and Hours: €7; ticket includes English audioguide and other MUHBA branches, including La Casa del Guarda in Park Güell; free all day first Sun of month and other Sun from 15:00—but no audioguide during free times; open Tue-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-20:00, closed Mon; last entry 30 minutes before closing, Plaça del Rei, enter on Vageur street, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 932-562-122.
This museum, with the eclectic collection of local sculptor and packrat Frederic Marès (1893-1991), sprawls around a peaceful courtyard through several old Barri Gòtic buildings. The biggest part of the collection, on the ground and first floors, consists of sculpture—from ancient works to beautiful, evocative Gothic pieces to items from the early 20th century. Even more interesting is the extensive “Collector’s Cabinet,” consisting of items Marès found representative of everyday life in the 19th century. Lovingly displayed on the second and third floors, the collection contains rooms upon rooms of scissors, keys, irons, fans, nutcrackers, stamps, pipes, snuff boxes, opera glasses, pocket watches, bicycles, toy soldiers, dolls, and other bric-a-brac. And in Marès’ study are several sculptures by the artist himself. The tranquil courtyard café offers a pleasant break, even when the museum is closed (café open in summer only, until 22:00).
Cost and Hours: €4.20, free Sun from 15:00, 1.5-hour audioguide-€1; open Tue-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 11:00-20:00, closed Mon; Plaça de Sant Iu 5-6, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 932-563-500, museumares.bcn.cat.
Shoe lovers enjoy this small museum of footwear in glass display cases, watched over by an earnest attendant. You’ll see shoes from the 1700s to today: fancy ladies’ boots, Tibetan moccasins, big clown shoes, expeditionary boots that have been to Mount Everest, and shoes of minor celebrities such as the president of Catalunya. The huge shoes at the entry are designed to fit the foot of the Columbus Monument at the bottom of the Ramblas.
Cost and Hours: €2.50, Tue-Sun 11:00-14:00, closed Mon, on Plaça Sant Felip Neri, Metro: Jaume I, see here for directions, tel. 933-014-533.
The Old City’s El Born neighborhood (also known as “La Ribera”) is home to several great sights, including the Picasso Museum. But even without those, the neighborhood is a joy to explore. El Born’s narrow lanes are crammed with artsy boutiques, inviting cafés and restaurants, funky one-off shops, rollicking nightlife, and a higher ratio of locals to tourists than most other city-center zones.
Getting There: It’s just across Via Laietana from the Barri Gòtic’s Plaça de l’Angel (Metro: Jaume I). Carrer de l’Argenteria (“Silversmiths Street”) runs diagonally from Plaça de l’Angel straight down to the Church of Santa Maria del Mar. The Palace of Catalan Music is to the north, and the Picasso Museum is roughly in the center.
(See “Picasso Museum—First Floor” map, here.)
Pablo Picasso may have made his career in Paris, but the years he spent in Barcelona—from ages 14 through 23—were among the most formative of his life. It was here that young Pablo mastered the realistic painting style of his artistic forebears—and it was also here that he first felt the freedom that allowed him to leave that all behind and give in to his creative, experimental urges. When he left Barcelona, Picasso headed for Paris...and revolutionized art forever.
The pieces in this excellent museum capture that priceless moment just before this bold young thinker changed the world. While you won’t find Picasso’s famous, later Cubist works here, you will enjoy a representative sweep of his early years, from art-school prodigy to the gloomy hues of his Blue Period to the revitalized cheer of his Rose Period. You’ll also see works from his twilight years, including dozens of wild improvisations inspired by Diego Velázquez’s seminal Las Meninas, as well as a roomful of works that reflect the childlike exuberance of an old man playing like a young kid on the French Riviera. It’s undoubtedly the top collection of Picassos here in his native country and the best anywhere of his early years.
Cost and Hours: €14, free all day first Sun of month and other Sun from 15:00; open Tue-Sun 9:00-19:00, Thu until 21:30, closed Mon, last entry 20 minutes before closing, Carrer de Montcada 15-23, ticket office at #21, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 932-563-000, museupicasso.bcn.cat.
Crowd-Beating Tips: There’s almost always a line, sometimes with waits of more than an hour. The busiest times are mornings before 13:00, all day Tuesday, and during the free entry times on Sundays (see earlier). If you have an Articket BCN (see here), skip the line by going to the “Meeting Point” entrance (30 yards to the right of the main entrance). You can also skip the line by buying your ticket online at museupicasso.bcn.cat (no additional booking fee). Stuck in line without a ticket? Figure that about 25 people are admitted every 10 minutes.
Getting There: From the Jaume I Metro stop, it’s a quick five-minute walk. Just head down Carrer de la Princesa (across the busy Via Laietana from the Barri Gòtic), turning right on Carrer de Montcada.
Audioguide: The 1.5-hour audioguide costs €3 and offers ample detail about the collection.
Services: The ground floor, which is free to enter, has a required bag check, as well as a handy array of other services (bookshop, WC, and cafeteria).
Cuisine Art: The museum itself has a good café (€8 sandwiches and salads). Outside the museum, right along Carrer de Montcada in either direction, are two great recommended tapas bars (both closed Mon): With your back to the museum, a few steps to the left is El Xampanyet, while to the right (across Carrer de la Princesa and up a block) is Bar del Pla.
(See “Picasso Museum—First Floor” map, here.)
Self-Guided Tour: The Picasso Museum’s collection of paintings is presented more or less chronologically (though specific pieces may be out for restoration or on tour, and the rooms are sometimes rearranged). But with the help of thoughtful English descriptions for each stage (and guards who don’t let you stray), it’s easy to follow the evolution of Picasso’s work. This tour is arranged by the stages of his life and art.
• Begin in Rooms 1 and 2.
Boy Wonder: Pablo’s earliest art (in the first room) is realistic and earnest. His work quickly advances from childish pencil drawings (such as Hercules, 1890), through a series of technically skilled art-school works (copies of plaster feet and arms), to oil paintings of impressive technique. Even at a young age, his portraits of grizzled peasants demonstrate surprising psychological insight. Because his dedicated father—himself a curator and artist—kept everything his son ever did, Picasso must have the best-documented youth of any great painter.
• In Room 2, you’ll find more paintings relating to Pablo’s...
Developing Talent (Adolescence): During a summer trip to Málaga, Picasso dabbles in a series of fresh, Impressionistic-style landscapes (relatively rare in Spain at the time). As a 15-year-old, Pablo dutifully enters art-school competitions. His first big work, First Communion, features a prescribed religious subject, but Picasso makes it an excuse to paint his family. His sister Lola is the model for the communicant, and the features of the man beside her belong to Picasso’s father. Notice Lola’s exquisitely painted veil. This piece was heavily influenced by the academic style of local painters.
Picasso’s relatives star in a number of portraits from this time. If it’s on view, find the portrait of his mother (this and other family portraits may be out on loan to the Picasso Museum in Málaga). The teenage Pablo is working on the fine details and gradients of white in her blouse and the expression in her cameo-like face. Notice the signature. Spaniards keep both parents’ surnames, with the father’s first, followed by the mother’s: Pablo Ruiz Picasso.
• Continue into Room 3.
Early Success: Science and Charity, which won second prize at a fine-arts exhibition, got Picasso the chance to study in Madrid. Now Picasso conveys real feeling. The doctor (modeled on Pablo’s father) represents science. The nun represents charity and religion. From her hopeless face and lifeless hand, it seems that Picasso believes nothing will save this woman from death. Pablo painted a little perspective trick: Walk back and forth across the room to see the bed stretch and shrink. Three small studies for this painting (on the right) show how this was an exploratory work. The frontier: light.
Picasso travels to Madrid for further study. Stifled by the stuffy fine-arts school there, he hangs out instead in the Prado Museum and learns by copying the masters. (An example of his impressive mimicry is coming up later, in Room 4.) Having absorbed the wisdom of the ages, in 1898 Pablo visits Horta de San Juan, a rural Catalan village, and finds his artistic independence. (See the small landscapes and scenes of village life he did there.) Poor and without a love in his life, he returns to Barcelona.
• Head to Room 4.
Barcelona Freedom (1900): Art Nouveau is all the rage in Barcelona. Upsetting his dad, Pablo quits art school and falls in with the avant-garde crowd. These bohemians congregate daily at Els Quatre Gats (“The Four Cats,” a popular restaurant to this day—see here). Picasso even created the menu cover for this favorite hangout (it’s sometimes on view here in Room 4). Further establishing his artistic freedom, he paints portraits of his new friends (including one of Jaume Sabartés, who later became his personal assistant and donated the works to establish this museum). Still a teenager, Pablo puts on his first one-man show at Els Quatre Gats in 1900.
Notice young Picasso’s nearly perfect copy of a portrait of Philip IV by an earlier Spanish master, Diego Velázquez. Near the end of the museum, we’ll see a much older Picasso—now confident with his boldly idiosyncratic style—riffing on another Velázquez painting.
• The next few pieces are displayed in Rooms 5, 6, and 7.
Paris (1900-1901): In 1900 Picasso makes his first trip to Paris, a city bursting with life, light, and love. Dropping the paternal surname Ruiz, Pablo establishes his commercial brand name: “Picasso.” Here the explorer Picasso goes bohemian and befriends poets, prostitutes, and artists. He paints cancan dancers like Toulouse-Lautrec, still lifes like Paul Cézanne, brightly colored Fauvist works like Henri Matisse, and Impressionist landscapes like Claude Monet. In The Wait (Margot), the subject—with her bold outline and strong gaze—pops out from the vivid, mosaic-like background.
• Turn right into the hall, then—farther along—right again, to find Rooms 8 and 9.
Blue Period (1901-1904): Picasso continues traveling to Paris. But the bleak weather, the suicide of his best friend, and his own poverty lead Picasso to abandon jewel-bright color for his Blue Period. He cranks out stacks of blue art just to stay housed and fed. With blue backgrounds (the coldest color) and depressing subjects, this period was revolutionary in art history. Now the artist is painting not what he sees, but what he feels. Just off of Room 8, look for the touching portrait of a mother and child, Motherhood (this very fragile pastel is only displayed intermittently), which captures the period well. Painting misfits and street people, Picasso, like Velázquez and Toulouse-Lautrec, sees “the beauty in ugliness.”
Back home in Barcelona, Picasso paints his hometown at night from rooftops (in the main part of Room 8). The painting is still blue, but here we see proto-Cubism...five years before the first real Cubist painting.
• Just off of Room 8, we get a hint of Picasso’s...
Rose Period (1904-1907): Picasso is finally lifted out of his funk after meeting a new lady, Fernande Olivier. He moves out of the blue and into the happier Rose Period. For a fine example, see the portrait of a woman wearing a classic Spanish mantilla (Portrait of Bernadetta Bianco). Its soft pink and reddish tones are the colors of flesh and sensuality.
• Move into Rooms 9-11.
Barcelona (1917): Picasso spent six months back in Barcelona in 1917 (his girlfriend, a Russian dancer with the Ballets Russes, had a gig in town). The paintings in these rooms demonstrate the artist’s irrepressible versatility: He’s already developed Cubism (with his friend Georges Braque; more on this below), but he also continues to play with other styles. In Woman with Mantilla (Room 9), we see a little Post-Impressionistic Pointillism in a portrait that is as elegant as a classical statue. Nearby, Gored Horse has all the anguish and power of his iconic Guernica (painted years later).
Pablo’s role in the invention of the revolutionary Cubist style is well known—at least I hope so, since this museum has no true Cubist paintings. A Cubist work gives not only the basics of a subject—it shows every aspect of it simultaneously. The technique of “building” a subject with “cubes” of paint simmered in Picasso’s artistic stew for years. In this museum, you’ll see some so-called Synthetic Cubist paintings—a later variation that flattens the various angles, as opposed to the purer, original “Analytical Cubist” paintings, in which you can simultaneously see several 3-D facets of the subject.
• Remember that this museum focuses on Picasso’s early years. As a result, it has very little from the most famous and prolific “middle” part of his career—basically, from Picasso’s invention of Cubism to his sunset years on the French Riviera. Skip ahead more than 30 years and into Rooms 12-14 (at the end of the main hallway on the right).
Picasso and Velázquez (1957): This series of rooms relates to what many consider the greatest painting by anyone, ever: Diego Velázquez’s Las Meninas (the original is displayed in Madrid’s Prado Museum). Heralded as the first completely realistic painting, Las Meninas became an obsession for Picasso centuries later.
Picasso, who had great respect for Velázquez, painted more than 50 interpretations of this piece. These two Spanish geniuses were artistic equals. Picasso seems to enjoy a relationship with Velázquez. Like artistic soul mates, they spar and tease. He deconstructs Velázquez and then injects light, color, and perspective to horse around with the earlier masterpiece. In the big black-and-white canvas, the king and queen (reflected in the mirror in the back of the room) are hardly seen, while the self-portrait of the painter towers above everyone. The two women of the court on the right look like they’re in a tomb—but they’re wearing party shoes. Browse the various studies, a playground of color and perspective. See the fun Picasso had playing paddleball with Velázquez’s tour de force—filtering Velázquez’s realism through the kaleidoscope of Cubism.
• Head back down the hall and turn right, through the ceramics area (Room 16), to find a flock of carefree white birds in Room 15.
The French Riviera: The Spaniard spends the last 36 years of his life living simply in the south of France. Picasso said many times that “Paintings are like windows open to the world.” We see his sunny Riviera world: With simple black outlines and Crayola colors, Picasso paints sun-splashed nature, peaceful doves, and the joys of the beach. He dabbles in the timeless art of ceramics, shaping bowls and vases into fun animals decorated with simple, playful designs. He’s enjoying life. Portraits of his second (and much younger) wife, Jacqueline Roque, hang at each end of Room 15.
Picasso died with brush in hand, still growing. Sadly, since Picasso vowed never to set foot in a fascist, Franco-ruled Spain, the artist never returned to his homeland...and never saw this museum (his death came in 1973—two years before Franco’s). However, to the end, Picasso continued exploring and loving life through his art.
This concert hall, built in just three years and finished in 1908, features an unexceptional exterior but boasts my favorite Modernista interior in town (by Lluís Domènech i Montaner). Its inviting arches lead you into the 2,138-seat hall (accessible only with a tour). A kaleidoscopic skylight features a choir singing around the sun, while playful carvings and mosaics celebrate music and Catalan culture. If you’re interested in Modernisme, taking this tour (which starts with a relaxing 12-minute video) is one of the best experiences in town—and helps balance the hard-to-avoid over-focus on Gaudí as “Mr. Modernisme.”
Cost and Hours: €17, 50-minute tours in English run daily every hour 10:00-15:00, tour times may change based on performance schedule, about 6 blocks northeast of cathedral, Carrer Palau de la Música 4-6, Metro: Urquinaona, tel. 902-442-882, palaumusica.cat.
Advance Reservations Required: You must buy your ticket in advance to get a spot on an English guided tour (tickets available up to 4 months in advance—ideally buy yours at least 2 days before, though they’re sometimes available the same day or day before—especially Oct-March). You can buy the ticket in person at the concert hall box office (less than a 10-minute walk from the cathedral or Picasso Museum, open daily 9:30-15:30); by phone with your credit card (no extra charge, tel. 902-475-485); or online at the concert hall website (€1 fee, palaumusica.cat).
Concerts: The other way to see the hall is by attending a concert (300 per year, €22-49 tickets, see website for details, box office tel. 902-442-882).
This eye-catching market hall was built on the ruins of an old monastery, then renovated in 2006 with a wildly colorful, swooping, Gaudí-inspired roof and shell built around its original white walls (a good exhibition at the far corner provides a view of the foundations and English explanations). The much-delayed construction took so long that locals began calling the site the “Hole of Shame.” Come for the outlandish architecture, but stay for a chance to shop for a picnic without the tourist logjam of La Boqueria market on the Ramblas.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon 7:30-14:00, Tue-Wed and Sat 7:30-15:30, Thu-Fri 7:30-20:30, closed Sun, Avinguda de Francesc Cambó 16, mercatsantacaterina.cat.
This so-called “Cathedral of the Sea” was built entirely with local funds and labor, in the heart of the wealthy merchant El Born quarter. Proudly independent, the church features a purely Catalan Gothic interior that was forcibly uncluttered of its Baroque decor by civil war belligerents. During the war (1936-1939), the Catholic Church sided with the conservative forces of Franco against the people. In retaliation, the working class took their anger out on this church, burning all of its wood furnishings and decor (carbon still blackens the ceiling).
Cost and Hours: Free except from 13:30-16:30, when it costs €3; open daily 9:00-20:00; €5 guided rooftop tours in summer, English tours on the hour Mon-Fri 13:00-19:00, Sat-Sun at 11:00 and 12:00; Plaça Santa Maria, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-435-633, stamariadelmar.org.
Nearby: Around the right side of the church is a poignant memorial to the “Catalan Alamo” of September 11, 1714, when the Spanish crown besieged and conquered Barcelona, slaughtering Catalan insurgents and kicking off more than two centuries of cultural suppression.
This long boulevard is the neighborhood center. Formerly a jousting square (as its Roman circus-esque shape indicates), it got its name, “El Born,” from an old Catalan word for “tournament” (the name was eventually given to the entire neighborhood). These days, Passeig del Born is a popular springboard for exploring tapas bars, fun restaurants, and nightspots in the narrow streets all around. Wandering around here at night, you’ll find piles of inviting and intriguing little restaurants (I’ve listed my favorites on here). At the far end of Passeig del Born is the vast-but-vacant, steel-frame, 19th-century El Born Market, which served as the city’s main produce market hall until 1971, when it was relocated to the suburbs. Plans are under way to convert the market hall into a cultural center and museum.
You’ll also find great shopping near this strip—be sure to venture up Carrer dels Flassaders (funky shops, to the left as you face the old market hall) and down Carrer del Rec (fashionable boutiques, to the right as you face the market).
This museum, only a couple of blocks from the Picasso Museum, is fun for chocolate lovers. Operated by the local confectioners’ guild, it tells the story of chocolate from Aztecs to Europeans via the port of Barcelona, where it was first unloaded and processed. But the history lesson is just an excuse to show off a series of remarkably ornate candy sculptures. These works of edible art—which change every year but often include such Spanish themes as Don Quixote or bullfighting—begin as store-window displays for Easter or Christmas. Once the holiday passes, the confectioners bring the sculptures here to be enjoyed.
Cost and Hours: €4.30, Mon-Sat 10:00-19:00 (until 20:00 mid-June-mid-Sept), Sun 10:00-15:00, Carrer del Comerç 36, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 932-687-878, museuxocolata.cat.
Barcelona’s medieval shipyard, the best preserved in the entire Mediterranean, is home to an excellent museum. Its permanent collection is closed for renovation (until late 2014), but the museum is hosting a series of worthwhile temporary exhibits during the revamp.
The building’s cavernous halls evoke the 14th-century days when Catalunya was a naval and shipbuilding power, cranking out 30 huge galleys a winter. As in the US today, military and commercial ventures mixed and mingled as Catalunya built its trading empire. When the permanent collection reopens, it’ll cover the salty history of ships and navigation from the 13th to the 20th century. In the meantime, an impressively huge and richly decorated royal galley remains on display.
Cost and Hours: Museum price depends on exhibits but usually €5, daily 10:00-20:00, last entry 30 minutes before closing, nice café with seating inside or out on the museum courtyard (free to enter), Avinguda de la Drassanes, Metro: Drassanes, tel. 933-429-920, mmb.cat.
Nearby: Your ticket also includes entrance to the Santa Eulàlia, an early 20th-century schooner docked just a short walk from the Columbus Monument (€1 for entry without museum visit, April-Oct Tue-Fri and Sun 10:00-20:30, Sat 14:00-20:30, closes at 17:30 in Nov-March, closed Mon year-round). On Saturday mornings, the schooner sets sail around the harbor for three hours—reserve well in advance; spots book up weeks in advance (Sat 10:00-13:00, adult-€12, children 6-14-€6, family rates available, tel. 933-429-920, reserves.mmaritim@diba.cat).
Located where the Ramblas hits the harbor, this 200-foot-tall monument was built for the 1888 world’s fair and commemorates Columbus’ visit to Barcelona following his first trip to America. A tight four-person elevator takes you to a glassed-in observation area at the top for congested but sweeping views—but the elevator is often closed; ask at any TI before making a special trip here to ride it. There is a small and usually uncrowded TI inside the base of the monument.
Cost and Hours: Monument—free and always open; elevator ride-€4, daily May-Oct 8:30-20:30, Nov-April 8:00-20:00.
At the harbor near the Columbus Monument, tourist boats called golondrinas offer two different unguided trips. As Barcelona’s skyline isn’t all that striking from the water, these trips are pretty pointless unless you’d just like to go for a boat ride. The shorter version goes around the harbor in 35 minutes (€7, daily on the hour 11:30-19:00, every 30 minutes mid-June-mid-Sept, may not run Nov-April, tel. 934-423-106, lasgolondrinas.com). The longer 1.5-hour trip goes up the coast to the Fòrum complex and back (€14.80, can disembark at Fòrum in summer only, about 7/day, daily 11:30-19:30, shorter hours off-season).
Barcelona has created a summer tourist beach trade by building a huge stretch of beaches east from the town center. Before the 1992 Olympics, this area was an industrial wasteland nicknamed the “Catalan Manchester.” Not anymore. The industrial zone was demolished and dumped into the sea, while sand was dredged out of the seabed to make the pristine beaches locals enjoy today. The scene is great for sunbathing and for an evening paseo before dinner. It’s like a resort island—complete with lounge chairs, volleyball, showers, WCs, bike paths, and inviting beach bars called chiringuitos. Looking out to sea from the beach, you can’t miss the W Hotel, shaped like a windblown sail, dominating a small peninsula—controversial among locals for displacing a popular nude beach.
Getting There: The Barceloneta Metro stop will leave you blocks from the sand. To get to the beaches without a hike, take the bus. From the Ramblas, bus #59 will get you as far as Barceloneta Park. To reach the more-distant beaches from Plaça de Catalunya, catch bus #41, which skirts Citadel Park before heading toward the water.
For many visitors, Modernista architecture is Barcelona’s main draw. And one name tops them all: Antoni Gaudí (1852-1926). Barcelona is an architectural scrapbook of Gaudí’s galloping gables and organic curves. A devoted Catalan and Catholic, he immersed himself in each project, often living on-site. At various times, he called Park Güell, La Pedrera, and the Sagrada Família home.
I’ve covered the main Gaudí attractions in the order you’d reach them from the harbor to the outskirts—starting along the Ramblas and in the Eixample before heading out to Sagrada Família and Park Güell (farther afield, but worth the trip).
Note that two other (non-Gaudí) Modernista works are covered in other sections: Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s Palace of Catalan Music in El Born (see here), and Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s CaixaForum, at the base of Montjuïc (here). For information on even more Modernista sights, you can visit the Plaça de Catalunya TI, where you’ll find a special desk set aside just for Modernisme seekers (see here).
Just as the Picasso Museum reveals a young genius on the verge of a breakthrough, this early Gaudí building (completed in 1890) shows the architect taking his first tentative steps toward what would become his trademark curvy style. Dark and masculine, with its castle-like rooms, Palau Güell (Catalans pronounce it “gway”) was custom-built to house the Güell clan and gives an insight into Gaudí’s artistic genius. The included 24-stop audioguide provides all the details. Despite the eye-catching roof (visible from the street if you crane your neck), I’d skip Palau Güell if you plan to see the more interesting La Pedrera (described later).
Cost and Hours: €12, includes audioguide, free first Sun of the month, open April-Sept Tue-Sun 10:00-20:00, Oct-March Tue-Sun 10:00-17:30, closed Mon year-round, last entry one hour before closing, a half-block off the Ramblas at Carrer Nou de la Rambla 3-5, Metro: Liceu or Drassanes, tel. 933-173-974, palauguell.cat.
Buying Tickets: As with any Gaudí sight, you may encounter lines. Since it’s not possible to reserve tickets in advance, you’ll have to buy them at the ticket window to the left of the entryway, then line up to the right. Each ticket has an entry time, so at busy times you may have to return later, even after buying your ticket.
The Eixample (“Expansion”) was built when a bulging Barcelona burst out of its medieval walls in the mid-19th century. With wide sidewalks, hardy shade trees, chic shops, and plenty of Art Nouveau fun, this carefully planned “new town,” just north of the Old City, has a rigid grid plan cropped back at the corners to create space and lightness at each intersection. Conveniently, all of this new construction provided a generation of Modernista architects with a blank canvas for creating boldly experimental designs.
For the best Eixample example, ramble Rambla de Catalunya (unrelated to the more famous Ramblas) and pass along Passeig de Gràcia. While you could simply walk around and see what Modernista masterpieces you stumble upon, most visitors make a beeline to Gaudí’s La Pedrera (Metro: Diagonal) and the Block of Discord, where three Modernista greats jockey for your attention (Metro: Passeig de Gràcia). By the way, if you’re tempted to snap photos from the middle of the street, be careful—Gaudí died after being struck by a streetcar.
Three colorful Modernista facades compete for your attention along a single block: Casa Lleó Morera, Casa Amatller, and Casa Batlló (the only one you can get inside). All were built by well-known architects at the end of the 19th century. Because the mansions look as though they are trying to outdo each other in creative twists, locals nicknamed the noisy block the “Block of Discord.” You’ll find the houses on Passeig de Gràcia (at the Metro stop of the same name), between Carrer del Consell de Cent and Carrer d’Aragó—three blocks above Plaça de Catalunya and four blocks below La Pedrera.
Casa Lleó Morera (#35): This paella-like mix of styles is the work of the architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner, who also designed the Palace of Catalan Music (you’ll notice similarities). The lower floors have classical columns and a Greek-temple-like bay window. Farther up are Gothic balconies of rosettes and tracery, while the upper part has faux Moorish stucco work. The whole thing is ornamented with fantastic griffins, angels, and fish. Flanking the third-story windows are figures holding the exciting inventions of the day—the camera, lightbulb, and gramophone—designed to demonstrate just how modern the homeowners were in this age of Modern-isme. Unfortunately, the wonderful interior is closed to the public.
Casa Amatller (#41): Josep Puig i Cadafalch custom-designed this house for the Amatller family. The facade features a creative mix of three of Spain’s historical traditions: Moorish-style pentagram-and-vine designs; Gothic-style tracery, gargoyles, and bay windows; and the step-gable roof from Spain’s Habsburg connection to the Low Countries. Notice the many layers of the letter “A”: The house itself (with its gable) forms an A, as does the decorative frieze over the bay window on the right side of the facade. Within that frieze, you’ll see several more As sprouting from branches (amatller means “almond tree”). The reliefs above the smaller windows show off the hobbies of the Amatller clan: Find the cherubs holding the early box camera, the open book, and the amphora jug (which the family collected). Look through the second-floor bay window to see the corkscrew column. If you want, you can pop inside for a closer look at the elaborate entrance hall.
For another dimension of Modernisme, peek into the ground-floor windows of the Bagues Joieria jewelry shop and notice the slinky pieces by Spanish Art Nouveau jeweler Masriera.
Casa Batlló (#43): The most famous facade on the block, rated ▲, is the green-blue, ceramic-speckled Casa Batlló, designed by Antoni Gaudí, with an interior that’s open to the public. It has tibia-like pillars and skull-like balconies, inspired by the time-tested natural forms that Gaudí knew made the best structural supports. The tiled roof has a soft-ice-cream-cone turret topped with a cross. The humpback roofline suggests a cresting dragon’s back. It’s thought that Gaudí based the work on the popular legend of St. Jordi (George) slaying the dragon. But some see instead a Mardi Gras theme, with mask-like balconies, a colorful confetti-like facade, and the ridge of a harlequin’s hat up top. The inscrutable Gaudí preferred to leave his designs open to interpretation.
While the highlight is the roof, the interior of this Gaudí house is also interesting—and even more over-the-top than La Pedrera’s (described later). Paid for with textile industry money, the house features a funky mushroom-shaped fireplace nook on the main floor, a blue-and-white-ceramic-slathered atrium, and an attic (with more parabolic arches). There’s barely a straight line in the house. You can also get a close-up look at the dragon-inspired rooftop. Because preservation of the place is privately funded, the entrance fee is steep—but it includes a good (if long-winded) audioguide.
Cost and Hours: €20.35, daily 9:00-20:00, may close early for special events—closings posted in advance at entrance, tel. 932-160-306, casabatllo.cat. Purchase a ticket online to avoid lines—which are especially fierce in the morning. Your eticket isn’t a timed reservation (it’s good any time), but it will let you skip to the front of the queue.
One of Gaudí’s trademark works, this house—built between 1906 and 1912—is an icon of Modernisme. The wealthy industrialist Pere Milà i Camps commissioned it, and while some still call it “Casa Milà,” most take one look at its jagged, rocky facade and opt for the more colorful nickname, La Pedrera—“The Quarry.” While it’s fun to ogle from the outside, it’s also worth going inside, as it features the city’s purest Gaudí interior. And buying a ticket also gets you access to the delightful rooftop, with its forest of colorfully tiled chimneys (note that the roof may close when it rains).
Cost and Hours: €16.50, good audioguide-€4, daily March-Oct 9:00-20:00, Nov-Feb 9:00-18:30, last entry 30 minutes before closing, at the corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Provença (visitor entrance at Provença 261-265), Metro: Diagonal, info tel. 902-400-973, lapedrera.com.
Crowd-Beating Tips: As lines can be long (up to a 1.5-hour wait to get in), it’s best to reserve ahead at lapedrera.com (tickets come with an assigned entry time and let you skip the line). If you come without a ticket, the best time to arrive is right when it opens.
Free Entrance to Atrium: For a peek at the interior without paying for a ticket, find the door directly on the corner, which leads to the main atrium. Upstairs on the first floor are temporary exhibits (generally free, open daily 10:00-20:00, may be closed between exhibitions).
Nighttime Visits: The building hosts guided after-hour visits dubbed “The Secret Pedrera.” On this pricey visit, you’ll tour the building with the lights turned down low (€30; English tour offered daily March-Oct at 21:15, but check changeable schedule and offerings online).
Concerts: On summer weekends, La Pedrera has an evening rooftop concert series, “Summer Nights at La Pedrera,” featuring live jazz. In addition to the music, it gives you the chance to see the rooftop illuminated (€27, late June-early Sept Thu-Sat at 22:30, book advance tickets online or by phone, tel. 902-101-212, lapedrera.com).
Visiting the House: A visit to La Pedrera covers three sections: the apartment, the attic, and the rooftop. Enter and head upstairs to the apartment. If it’s near closing time, continue up to see the attic and rooftop first to make sure you have enough time to enjoy Gaudí’s works and the views.
The typical bourgeois apartment is decorated as it might have been when the building was first occupied by middle-class urbanites (a seven-minute video explains Barcelona society at the time). Notice Gaudí’s clever use of the atrium to maximize daylight in all of the apartments.
The attic houses a sprawling multimedia exhibit tracing the history of the architect’s career with models, photos, and videos of his work. It’s all displayed under distinctive parabola-shaped arches. While evocative of Gaudí’s style in themselves, the arches are formed this way partly to support the multilevel roof above. This area was also used for ventilation, helping to keep things cool in summer and warm in winter. Tenants had storage spaces and did their laundry up here.
From the attic, a stairway leads to the undulating, jaw-dropping rooftop, where 30 chimneys and ventilation towers play volleyball with the clouds.
Back at the ground level of La Pedrera, poke into the dreamily painted original entrance courtyard.
While the buildings listed earlier are the best Modernista facades in this area, fans of this era may want to seek out a few more examples:
Just around the corner from the Block of Discord, at Carrer d’Aragó 255, the Fundació Antoni Tàpies, dedicated to a 20th-century abstract artist from Barcelona, is housed in a Lluís Domènech i Montaner-designed building that sums up the Modernist credo. Constructed of modern brick, iron, and glass, it’s decorated with playful motifs and is spacious, functional, and full of light inside. The actual museum collection is worthwhile only for Tàpies fans (€7, Tue-Sun 10:00-19:00, closed Mon, fundaciotapies.org).
The Hotel Casa Fuster is another fine Modernista building by Lluís Domènech i Montaner (directly across the boulevard called Diagonal from the top of Passeig de Gràcia, at the far end of the small park, Passeig de Gràcia 132).
Nearby are two works by Josep Puig i Cadafalch (a few blocks east from the top of Passeig de Gràcia on Diagonal). Palau Baró de Quadras (at #373, on the right) today houses Casa Àsia. Another block and a half down is the distinctively turreted Casa Terrades—better known as Casa de les Punxes (“House of Spikes,” at #416, on the left).
(See “Sagrada Família” map, here.)
Architect Antoni Gaudí’s most famous and awe-inspiring work is this unfinished, super-sized church. With its cake-in-the-rain facade and otherworldly spires, the church is not only an icon of Barcelona and its trademark Modernista style, but also a symbol of this period’s greatest practitioner. As an architect, Gaudí’s foundations were classics, nature, and religion. The church represents all three.
Gaudí labored on the Sagrada Família for 43 years, from 1883 until his death in 1926. Nearly a century after his death, people continue to toil to bring Gaudí’s designs to life. There’s something powerful about a community of committed people with a vision, working on a church that won’t be finished in their lifetime—as was standard in the Gothic age. The progress of this remarkable building is a testament to the generations of architects, sculptors, stonecutters, fund-raisers, and donors who’ve been caught up in the audacity of Gaudí’s astonishing vision. After paying the steep admission price (becoming a partner in this building project), you will actually feel good. If there’s any building on earth I’d like to see, it’s the Sagrada Família...finished.
Cost and Hours: Church-€13.50, tower elevators-€4.50 each, €17 combo-ticket also includes Gaudí House and Museum at Park Güell (see here), daily April-Sept 9:00-20:00, Oct-March 9:00-18:00, last entry 15 minutes before closing, Metro: Sagrada Família, exit toward Plaça de la Sagrada Família, tel. 932-073-031, sagradafamilia.cat.
Getting There: The Sagrada Família Metro stop puts you right on the doorstep: Exit toward Plaça de la Sagrada Família. The ticket windows and entrance for individuals (not groups) are on the west side of the church (at the Passion Facade). Inviting parks flank the building, facing the two completed facades.
Crowd-Beating Tips: Though the ticket line can seem long (often curving around the block), it generally moves quickly; you can ask for an estimate from the guards at the front of the line. Still, waits can be up to 45 minutes at peak times (most crowded in the morning). To minimize your wait, arrive right at 9:00 (when it opens) or after 16:00. To skip the line, buy advance tickets, take a tour, or hire a private guide.
Advance Tickets: To avoid the ticket-buying line, reserve an entry time and buy tickets in advance. The best option is to book online at sagradafamilia.cat, which allows you to print tickets at home. With prepurchased tickets, head straight for the “online ticket office” window, to the right of the main ticket line, and show your ticket to the guard.
Tours: The 50-minute English tours (€4.50) run May-Oct daily at 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, and 15:00; Nov-April Mon-Fri at 11:00, 13:00, and 15:00, Sat-Sun at 11:00, 12:00, 13:00, and 15:00. Or rent the good 1.5-hour audioguide (€4.50). Good English information is posted throughout.
Tower Elevators: Two different elevators (€4.50 each, pay at main ticket office, each ticket comes with an entry time) take you partway up the towers for a great view of the city and a gargoyle’s-eye perspective of the loopy church.
The easier option is the Passion Facade elevator, which takes you 215 feet up and down. If you want, you can climb higher, but expect the spiral stairs to be tight, hot, and congested.
The Nativity Facade elevator is more exciting and demanding. You’ll get the opportunity to cross the dizzying bridge between the towers, but you’ll need to take the stairs all the way down.
Construction Update: Since Gaudí’s death in 1926, construction has moved forward in fits and starts, though much progress was made in recent decades, thanks to Barcelona’s 1992 Olympics renaissance, the ensuing rediscovery of the genius of Gaudí, and advances in technology. In 2010, the main nave was finished enough to host a consecration Mass by the pope (as a Catholic church, it is used for services, though irregularly). As I stepped inside on my last visit, the brilliance of Gaudí’s vision for the interior was apparent.
The main challenges today: Ensure that construction can withstand the vibrations caused by the speedy AVE trains rumbling underfoot, construct the tallest church spire ever built, and find a way to buy out the people who own the condos in front of the planned Glory Facade so that Gaudí’s vision of a grand esplanade approaching the church can be realized. The goal, which seems overly optimistic but tantalizing nonetheless, is to finish the church by the 100th anniversary of Gaudí’s death, in 2026.
(See “Sagrada Família” map, here.)
Self-Guided Tour: Start at the ticket entrance (at the Passion Facade) on the western side of the church. The view is best from the park across the street. Before heading to the ticket booth, take in the...
Exterior: Stand and imagine how grand this church will be when completed. The four 330-foot spires topped with crosses are just a fraction of this mega-church. When finished, the church will have 18 spires. Four will stand at each of the three entrances. Rising above those will be four taller towers, dedicated to the four Evangelists. A tower dedicated to Mary will rise still higher—400 feet. And in the very center of the complex will stand the grand 560-foot Jesus tower, topped with a cross that will shine like a spiritual lighthouse, visible even from out at sea.
The Passion Facade that tourists enter today is only a side entrance to the church. The grand main entrance will be around to the right. That means that the nine-story apartment building will eventually have to be torn down to accommodate it. The three facades—Nativity, Passion, and Glory—will chronicle Christ’s life from birth to death to resurrection. Inside and out, a goal of the church is to bring the lessons of the Bible to the world. Despite his boldly modern architectural vision, Gaudí was fundamentally traditional and deeply religious. He designed the Sagrada Família to be a bastion of solid Christian values in the midst of what was a humble workers’ colony in a fast-changing city.
When Gaudí died, only one section (on the Nativity Facade) had been completed. The rest of the church has been inspired by Gaudí’s long-range vision, but designed and executed by others. This artistic freedom was amplified in 1936, when civil war shelling burned many of Gaudí’s blueprints. Supporters of the ongoing work insist that Gaudí, who enjoyed saying, “My client [God] is not in a hurry,” knew he wouldn’t live to complete the church and recognized that later architects and artists would rely on their own muses for inspiration. Detractors maintain that the church’s design is a uniquely, intensely personal one and that it’s folly (if not disrespectful) for anyone to try to guess what Gaudí would have intended. Studying the various plans and models in the museum below the church, it’s clear that Gaudí’s plan evolved dramatically the longer he worked. Is it appropriate to keep implementing a century-old vision that can no longer be modified by its creator? Discuss.
• Pass through the ticket entrance into the complex, approaching closer to the...
Passion Facade: Judge for yourself how well Gaudí’s original vision has been carried out by later artists. The Passion Facade’s four spires were designed by Gaudí and completed (quite faithfully) in 1976. But the lower part was only inspired by Gaudí’s designs. The stark sculptures were interpreted freely (and controversially) by Josep Maria Subirachs (b. 1927), who completed the work in 2005.
Subirachs tells the story of Christ’s torture and execution. The various scenes—Last Supper, betrayal, whipping, and so on—zigzag up from bottom to top, culminating in Christ’s crucifixion over the doorway. The style is severe and unadorned, quite different from Gaudí’s signature playfulness. But the bone-like archways are closely based on Gaudí’s original designs. And Gaudí had made it clear that this facade should be grim and terrifying.
The facade is full of symbolism. A stylized Alpha-and-Omega is over the door (which faces the setting sun). Jesus, hanging on the cross, has hair made of an open book, symbolizing the word of God. To the left of the door, there’s a grid of numbers, always adding up to 33—Jesus’ age at the time of his death. The distinct face of the man below and just left of Christ is a memorial to Gaudí. Now look high above: The two-ton figure suspended between the towers is the soul of Jesus, ascending to heaven.
• Enter the church. As you pass through the Atrium, look down at the fine porphyry floor (with scenes of Jesus’ entry into Jerusalem), and look right to see one of the elevators up to the towers. For now, continue into the...
Interior: Typical of even the most traditional Catalan and Spanish churches, the floor plan is in the shape of a Latin cross, 300 feet long and 200 feet wide. Ultimately, the church will encompass 48,000 square feet, accommodating 8,000 worshippers. The nave’s roof is 150 feet high. The crisscross arches of the ceiling (the vaults) show off Gaudí’s distinctive engineering. The church’s roof and flooring were only completed in 2010—just in time for Pope Benedict XVI to arrive and consecrate the church.
Part of Gaudí’s religious vision was a love for nature. He said, “Nothing is invented; it’s written in nature.” Like the trunks of trees, these columns (56 in all) blossom with life, complete with branches, leaves, and knot-like capitals. The columns are a variety of colors—brown clay, gray granite, dark-gray basalt. The taller columns are 72 feet tall; the shorter ones are exactly half that.
The angled columns form many arches. You’ll see both parabolas (U-shaped) and hyperbolas (flatter, elliptical shapes). Gaudí’s starting point was the Gothic pointed arch used in medieval churches. But he tweaked it after meticulous study of which arches are best at bearing weight.
Little windows let light filter in like the canopy of a rainforest, giving both privacy and an intimate connection with God. The clear glass is temporary and will gradually be replaced by stained glass. As more and more stained glass is installed, splashes of color will breathe even more life into this amazing space. Gaudí envisioned an awe-inspiring canopy with a symphony of colored light to encourage a contemplative mood.
High up at the back half of the church, the U-shaped choir—suspended above the nave—can seat 1,000. The singers will eventually be backed by four organs (there’s one now).
Work your way up the grand nave, walking through this forest of massive columns. At the center of the church stand four red porphyry columns, each marked with an Evangelist’s symbol and name in Catalan: angel (Mateu), lion (Marc), bull (Luc), and eagle (Joan). These columns support a ceiling vault that’s 200 feet high—and eventually will also support the central steeple, the 560-foot Jesus tower with the shining cross. The steeple will be further supported by four underground pylons, each consisting of 8,000 tons of cement. It will be the tallest church steeple in the world, though still a few feet shorter than the city’s highest point at the summit of Montjuïc hill, as Gaudí believed that a creation of man should not attempt to eclipse the creation of God.
Stroll behind the altar through the ambulatory to reach a small chapel set aside for prayer and meditation. Look through windows down at the crypt (which holds the tomb of Gaudí). Peering down into that surprisingly traditional space, imagine how the church was started as a fairly conventional, 19th-century Neo-Gothic building until Gaudí was given the responsibility to finish it.
• Head to the far end of the church, to what will eventually be the main entrance. Just inside the door, find the bronze model of the eventual floor plan of the completed church. Facing the doors, look high up to see Subirachs’ statue of one of Barcelona’s patron saints, Jordi. Go through the doors to imagine what will someday be the...
Glory Facade: As you exit, study the fine bronze door, emblazoned with the Lord’s Prayer in Catalan, surrounded by “Give us this day our daily bread” in 50 languages. Once outside, you’ll be face-to-face with...drab, doomed apartment blocks. In the 1950s, the mayor of Barcelona, figuring this day would never really come, sold the land destined for the church project. Now the city must buy back these buildings in order to complete Gaudí’s vision: that of a grand esplanade leading to this main entry. Four towers will rise up. The facade’s sculpture will represent how the soul passes through death, faces the Last Judgment, avoids the pitfalls of hell, and finds its way to eternal glory with God. Gaudí purposely left the facade’s design open for later architects—stay tuned.
• Re-enter the church, backtrack up the nave, and exit through the right transept. Once outside, back up as far as you can to take in the...
Nativity Facade: This is the only part of the church essentially finished in Gaudí’s lifetime. The four spires decorated with his unmistakably nonlinear sculpture mark this facade as part of his original design. Mixing Gothic-style symbolism, images from nature, and Modernista asymmetry, the Nativity Facade is the best example of Gaudí’s original vision, and it established the template for future architects.
The theme of this facade, which faces the rising sun, is Christ’s birth. A statue above the doorway shows Mary, Joseph, and Baby Jesus in the manger, while curious cows peek in. It’s the Holy Family—or “Sagrada Família”—to whom this church is dedicated. Flanking the doorway are the three Magi and adoring shepherds. Other statues show Jesus as a young carpenter and angels playing musical instruments. Higher up on the facade, in the arched niche, Jesus crowns Mary triumphantly.
The facade is all about birth and new life, from the dove-covered Tree of Life on top to the turtles at the base of the columns flanking the entrance. At the bottom of the Tree of Life is a white pelican. Because it was believed that this noble bird would kill itself to feed its young, it was often used in the Middle Ages as a symbol for the self-sacrifice of Jesus. The chameleon gargoyles at the outer corners of the facade (just above door level) represent the changeability of life. It’s as playful as the Passion Facade is grim. Gaudí’s plans were for this facade to be painted. Cleverly, this attractive facade was built and finished first to bring in financial support for the project.
The four spires are dedicated to Apostles, and they repeatedly bear the word “Sanctus,” or holy. Their colorful ceramic caps symbolize the miters (formal hats) of bishops. The shorter spires (to the left) symbolize the Eucharist (communion), alternating between a chalice with grapes and a communion host with wheat.
To the left of the facade is one section of the cloister. Whereas most medieval churches have their cloisters attached to one side of the building, the Sagrada Família’s cloister will wrap around the church, more than 400 yards long.
• Notice the second elevator up to the towers. But for now, head down the ramp to the left of the facade, where you’ll find WCs and the entrance to the...
Museum: Housed in what will someday be the church’s crypt, the museum displays Gaudí’s original models and drawings, and chronicles the progress of construction over the last 130 years. Wander among the plaster models used for the church’s construction, including a model of the nave so big you walk beneath it. The models make clear the influence of nature. The columns seem light, with branches springing forth and capitals that look like palm trees. You’ll notice that the models don’t always match the finished product—these are ideas, not blueprints set in stone. The Passion Facade model (near the entrance) shows Gaudí’s original vision, with which Subirachs tinkered very freely (see here).
Turn up the main hallway. On the left you can peek into a busy workshop still used for making the same kind of plaster models Gaudí used to envision the final product in 3-D. Farther along, a small hallway on the right leads to some original Gaudí architectural sketches in a dimly lit room and a worthwhile 20-minute movie (generally shown in English at :50 past each hour).
From the end of this hall, you have another opportunity to look down into the crypt and at Gaudí’s tomb. Gaudí lived on the site for more than a decade and is buried in the Neo-Gothic 19th-century crypt. There’s a move afoot to make Gaudí a saint. Perhaps someday his tomb will be a place of pilgrimage.
Back in the main hallway, on the right is the intriguing “Hanging Model” for Gaudí’s unfinished Church of Colònia Güell (in a suburb of Barcelona), featuring a similar design to the Sagrada Família. The model illustrates how the architect used gravity to calculate the arches that support the church. Wires dangle like suspended chains, forming perfect hyperbolic arches. Attached to these are bags, representing the weight the arches must support. Flip these arches over, and they can bear the heavy weight of the roof. The mirror above the model shows how the right-side-up church is derived from this. Across the hall is a small exhibit commemorating Pope Benedict XVI’s 2010 consecration visit.
After passing some original sculptures from the Glory Facade (on the right) and continuing beneath a huge plaster model, turn right to find three different visions for this church. Notice how the arches evolved as Gaudí tinkered, from the original, pointy Neo-Gothic arches, to parabolic ones, to the hyperbolic ones he eventually settled on. Also in this hall are replicas of the pulpit and confessional that Gaudí, the micromanager, designed for his church. Before exiting at the far end of the hall, scan the photos (including one of the master himself) and timeline illustrating how construction work has progressed from Gaudí’s day to now.
• You’ll exit near where you started, at the Passion Facade.
School: The small building outside the Passion Facade was a school Gaudí erected for the children of the workers building the church. Today it includes more exhibits about the design and engineering of the church, along with a classroom and a replica of Gaudí’s desk as it was the day he died. Pause for a moment to pay homage to the man who made all this possible. Gaudí—a faithful Catholic whose medieval-style mysticism belied his Modernista architecture career—was certainly driven to greatness by his passion for God.
Gaudí fans enjoy the artist’s magic in this colorful park, located on the outskirts of town. While it takes a bit of effort to get here, Park Güell (Catalans pronounce it “gway”) offers a unique look at Gaudí’s style in a natural rather than urban context. Designed as an upscale housing development for early-20th-century urbanites, the park’s Monumental Zone is home to some of Barcelona’s most famous symbols, including a whimsical staircase guarded by a dragon and a wavy bench with a view—all of it slathered with fragments of vivid tile. It also features a panoramic terrace supported by a forest of columns. Even without its Gaudí connection, Park Güell is simply a fine place to enjoy a break from a busy city, where green space is relatively rare.
Cost and Hours: Park—free, Monumental Zone—€8, €7 in advance, ticket reserves entry at specific time and date, best to buy tickets in advance; daily 10:00-20:00, tel. 932-130-488, parkguell.cat; Gaudí House and Museum—€5.50, €17 combo-ticket also includes Sagrada Família, daily April-Sept 10:00-20:00 (until 18:00 Oct-March); La Casa del Guarda—€2, included in Barcelona History Museum ticket (see here), daily April-Sept 10:00-20:00 (until 18:00 Oct-March), tel. 933-190-222.
Getting There: To reach Park Güell—about 2.5 miles north of Plaça de Catalunya—it’s easiest to take a taxi from downtown (around €12). Otherwise, from Plaça de Catalunya public bus #24 goes to the park’s side entrance; the blue Tourist Bus stops two blocks below the park’s main entrance (at the intersection of Carrer Larrard and Travessera de Dalt). Or you can ride the Metro to Joanic, exit toward Carrer de l’Escorial, and find the bus stop in front of #20, where you can catch bus #116 to the park’s main entrance.
Visiting the Park: This tour assumes you’re arriving at the front/main entrance and visiting the Monumental Zone. As you wander the park, imagine living here a century ago—if this gated community had succeeded and was filled with Barcelona’s wealthy.
Front Entrance: Entering the park, you walk by Gaudí’s wrought-iron gas lamps (1900-1914). His dad was a blacksmith, and he always enjoyed this medium. Two gate houses made of gingerbread flank the entrance. One houses a good bookshop; the other is home to the Gaudí-built La Casa del Guarda (dull exhibit, totally skippable). The Gaudí House and Museum, described later, is better.
Stairway and Columns: Climb the grand stairway, past the famous ceramic dragon fountain. At the top, dip into the “Hall of 100 Columns,” designed to house a produce market for the neighborhood’s 60 mansions. The fun columns—each different, made from concrete and rebar, topped with colorful ceramic, and studded with broken bottles and bric-a-brac—add to the market’s vitality.
As you continue up (on the left-hand staircase), look left, down the playful “pathway of columns” that supports a long arcade. Gaudí drew his inspiration from nature, and this arcade is like a surfer’s perfect tube.
Terrace: Once up top, sit on a colorful bench—designed to fit your body ergonomically—and enjoy one of Barcelona’s best views. Look for the Sagrada Família church in the distance. Gaudí was an engineer as well. He designed a water-catchment system by which rain hitting this plaza would flow into and through the columns from the market below, and power the park’s fountains.
When considering the failure of Park Güell as a community development, also consider that it was an idea a hundred years ahead of its time. Back then, high-society ladies didn’t want to live so far from the cultural action. Today, the surrounding neighborhoods are some of the wealthiest in town, and a gated community here would be a big hit.
Gaudí House and Museum: This pink house with a steeple, standing in the middle of the park (near the side entrance), was actually Gaudí’s home for 20 years, until his father died (though Gaudí did not design the actual house). His humble artifacts are mostly gone, but the house is now a museum with some quirky Gaudí furniture and a chance to wander through a model home used to sell the others. Though small, it offers a good taste of what could have been.
Montjuïc (mohn-jew-EEK, “Mount of the Jews”), overlooking Barcelona’s hazy port, has always been a show-off. Ages ago it was capped by an impressive castle. When the Spanish enforced their rule, they built the imposing fortress that you’ll see the shell of today. The hill has also played an integral role in the construction of Barcelona’s great structures—significant parts of the historic city, the cathedral, the Sagrada Família, and much more were all built with stones quarried from Montjuïc.
Montjuïc has also been prominent during the last century. In 1929, it hosted an international fair, from which many of today’s sights originated. And in 1992, the Summer Olympics directed the world’s attention to this pincushion of attractions once again. While Montjuïc lacks any single knockout, must-see sight, it is home to a variety of very good ones, and most visitors should find one or two attractions here to suit their interests. For the majority of travelers, the most worthwhile sights are the Fundació Joan Miró, Catalan Art Museum, and CaixaForum.
Sightseeing Strategies: I’ve listed these sights by altitude, from highest to lowest—from the hill-topping castle down to the 1929 World Expo Fairgrounds at the base of Montjuïc (described in the next section). If you’re visiting all of my listed sights, ride to the top by bus, funicular, or taxi, then visit them in this order so that most of your walking is downhill. However, if you want to visit only the Catalan Art Museum and/or CaixaForum, you can just take the Metro to Plaça d’Espanya and ride the escalators up (with some stair-climbing as well) to those sights.
Getting to Montjuïc: You have several choices. The simplest is to take a taxi directly to your destination (about €7-8 from downtown).
Buses can also take you up to Montjuïc. From Plaça de Catalunya, bus #55 rides as far as Montjuïc’s cable-car station/funicular. If you want to get higher (to the castle), ride the Metro or bus #9 or #50 from Plaça de Catalunya to Plaça d’Espanya, then make the easy transfer to bus #150 to ride all the way up the hill. Alternatively, the red Tourist Bus will get you to the Montjuïc sights.
Another option is by funicular (covered by Metro ticket, every 10 minutes, 7:30-22:00, from 9:00 on Sat-Sun). To reach it, take the Metro to the Paral-lel stop, then follow signs for Parc Montjuïc and the little funicular icon—you can enter the funicular without using another ticket. From the top of the funicular, turn left and walk gently downhill two minutes to the Miró museum, six minutes to the Olympic Stadium, or ten minutes to the Catalan Art Museum. If you’re heading all the way up to the castle, you can catch a bus or cable car from the top of the funicular (see castle listing, later).
For a scenic (if slow) approach to Montjuïc, you could ride the fun circa-1929 Aeri del Port cable car (telefèric) from the tip of the Barceloneta peninsula (across the harbor, near the beach) to the Miramar viewpoint park in Montjuïc. (Another station, right along the port near the Columbus Monument, is currently closed.) Since the cable car is expensive, loads excruciatingly slowly, and goes between two relatively remote parts of town, it’s really not an efficient connection. It’s only worthwhile for its sweeping views over town or if you’d like to, say, cap off your Montjuïc day with some beach time near Barceloneta. From the Barceloneta cable-car station, catch a public bus (#17, #39, or #64) to reach the Barceloneta Metro stop (€11 one-way, €16.50 round-trip, 3/hour, daily 11:00-19:00, until 20:00 June-Sept, closed in high wind, tel. 934-414-820, telefericodebarcelona.com).
Getting Around Montjuïc: Up top, it’s easy and fun to walk between the sights—especially downhill. You can also connect the sights using the red Tourist Bus or one of the public buses: Bus #150 does a loop around the hilltop and is the only bus that goes to the castle; on the way up, it stops at or passes near CaixaForum, the Spanish Village, the Catalan Art Museum, Olympic Stadium, Fundació Joan Miró, the lower castle cable-car station/top of the funicular, and finally, the castle. On the downhill run, it loops by Miramar, the cable-car station for Barceloneta. Bus #55 connects only the funicular/cable-car stations, Fundació Joan Miró, and the Catalan Art Museum.
The castle, while just an empty brick-and-concrete shell today, offers great city views from its ramparts...and some poignant history. It was built by the central Spanish government in the 18th century with a Vauban-type star fortress design to keep an eye on Barcelona and stifle citizen revolt. When the 20th-century dictator Franco was in power, the castle was the site of hundreds of political executions. Its military function gone, these days it serves as a park, jogging destination, and host to a popular summer open-air cinema.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily April-Sept 9:00-21:00, Oct-March 9:00-19:00.
Getting There: To spare yourself the hike up to the castle and to see some great views of the city, you can ride bus #150 to the base of the castle, catching it from Plaça d’Espanya, the top of the Montjuïc funicular, or various other points on Montjuïc. Or you can spring for the much pricier cable car (Telefèric de Montjuïc), which departs from near the upper station of the Montjuïc funicular (€7.30 one-way, €10.30 round-trip, daily June-Sept 10:00-21:00, March-May and Oct 10:00-19:00, Nov-Feb 10:00-18:00).
Showcasing the talents of yet another Catalan artist, this museum has the best collection anywhere of art by Joan Miró (ZHOO-ahn mee-ROH, 1893-1983). You’ll also see works by other Modern and contemporary artists. If you don’t like abstract art, you’ll leave here scratching your head. But those who love this place are not faking it...they understand the genius of Miró and the fun of abstract art.
Here are some tips to help you enjoy and appreciate Miró’s art: First meditate on it, then read the title (for example, The Smile of a Tear), then meditate on it again. Repeat the process until you have an epiphany. There’s no correct answer—it’s pure poetry. Devotees of Miró say they fly with him and don’t even need drugs. Psychoanalysts liken Miró’s free-for-all canvases to Rorschach tests. Is that a cigar in that star’s mouth?
Cost and Hours: €11, great audioguide-€4; July-Sept Tue-Sat 10:00-20:00 (until 19:00 Oct-June), Thu until 21:30, Sun 10:00-14:30; closed Mon year-round, 200 yards from top of funicular, Parc de Montjuïc, tel. 934-439-470, fundaciomiro-bcn.org. The museum has a cafeteria, a café, and a bookshop.
This museum rides the coattails of the stadium across the street (see next listing). You’ll twist down a timeline-ramp that traces the history of the Olympic Games, interspersed with random exhibits about various sports. Downstairs you’ll find exhibits designed to test your athleticism, a play-by-play rehash of the ’92 Barcelona Olympiad, a commemoration of Juan Antonio Samaranch (the influential Catalan president of the IOC for two decades), a sports media exhibit, and a schmaltzy movie collage. High-tech but hokey, the museum is worth the time and money only for those nostalgic for the ’92 Games.
Cost and Hours: €5.10, April-Sept Tue-Sat 10:00-20:00 (until 18:00 Oct-March), Sun 10:00-14:30, closed Mon year-round, Avinguda de l’Estadi 60, tel. 932-925-379, museuolimpicbcn.cat.
Aside from the memories of the medals, Barcelona’s Olympic Stadium, originally built for the 1929 World Expo, offers little to see today. But if the doors are open, you’re welcome to step inside. History panels along the railings overlooking the playing field tell the stadium’s dynamic story and show the place in happier times (filled with fans as Bon Jovi, the Rolling Stones, and Madonna pack the place). The stadium was restored for the 1992 Summer Olympics, which were particularly memorable for the USA’s basketball Dream Team, and as the first Games after the breakups of Yugoslavia and the Soviet Union (whose athletes took the field as the “Unified Team”).
Nearby: Hovering over the stadium is the futuristic Montjuïc Communications Tower, designed by prominent Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava and used to transmit Olympic highlights and lowlights around the world.
The big vision for this wonderful museum is to showcase Catalan art from the 10th century through about the mid-20th century. Often called “the Prado of Romanesque art” (and “MNAC” for short), it holds Europe’s best collection of Romanesque frescoes. It also offers a particularly good sweep of modern Catalan art—fitting, given Catalunya’s astonishing contribution to the Modern. Art aficionados are sure to find something in this diverse collection to tickle their fancy. It’s all housed in the grand Palau Nacional, an emblematic building of the 1929 International Exhibition, with magnificent views over Barcelona.
Cost and Hours: €12, includes temporary exhibits, ticket valid for two days within one month, free Sat from 15:00 and first Sun of month; audioguide-€3.10; open May-Sept Tue-Sat 10:00-20:00 (until 18:00 Oct-April), Sun 10:00-15:00, closed Mon, last entry 30 minutes before closing; in massive National Palace building above Magic Fountains, near Plaça d’Espanya—take escalators up; tel. 936-220-376, mnac.cat.
Visiting the Museum: As you enter, pick up a map. The left wing is Romanesque, and the right wing is Gothic, exquisite Renaissance, and Baroque. Upstairs is more Baroque, plus modern art, photography, coins, and more.
The MNAC’s rare, world-class collection of Romanesque (Romànic) art came mostly from remote Catalan village churches (most of the pieces were moved to the museum in the early 1920s to save them from scavenging art dealers). The Romanesque wing features a remarkable array of 11th- to 13th-century frescoes, painted wooden altar fronts, and ornate statuary. This classic Romanesque art—with flat 2-D scenes, each saint holding his symbol, and Jesus (easy to identify by the cross in his halo)—is impressively displayed on replicas of the original church ceilings and apses.
Across the way, in the Gothic wing, fresco murals give way to vivid 14th-century wood-panel paintings of Bible stories. A roomful of paintings (Room 26) by the Catalan master Jaume Huguet (1412-1492) deserves a look, particularly his Consecration of St. Agustí Vell.
For a break, glide under the huge dome, which once housed an ice-skating rink. This was the prime ceremony room and dance hall for the 1929 World Expo.
From the big ballroom, you can ride the glass elevator upstairs to the Renaissance and Baroque section, covering Spain’s Golden Age (Zurbarán, heavy religious scenes, Spanish royals with their endearing underbites) and Romanticism (dewy-eyed Catalan landscapes). Down on the ground floor are minor works by major—if not necessarily Catalan—names (Velázquez, El Greco, Tintoretto, Rubens, and so on).
Another museum highlight is the Modern section, which takes you on an enjoyable walk from the late 1800s to about 1950. It’s kind of a Catalan Musée d’Orsay, offering a big chronological clockwise circle covering Symbolism, Modernisme, fin de siècle fun, Art Deco, and more. Find the early 20th-century paintings by Catalan artists Santiago Rusiñol and Ramon Casas, both of whom had a profound impact on a young Picasso (and, through him, on all of modern art).
With the World Expo in 1929, Montjuïc morphed into an extravagant center for fairs, museums, and festivals. Nearly everything you see here dates from 1929 (the exceptions are CaixaForum and the Las Arenas mall). The expo’s theme was to demonstrate how electricity was about more than lightbulbs: Electricity powered the funicular, the glorious expo fountains, the many pavilion displays, and even the flame atop the fountain marking the center of Plaça d’Espanya (and celebrating the electric company that sponsored the show). If Barcelona is known for growing through big events, this certainly is a good example.
Standing at Plaça d’Espanya (or, better yet, on the rooftop terrace of the bullring mall—described later), look through the double-brick-tower gate, down the grand esplanade, and imagine it alive with fountains and lined by proud national pavilions showing off all that was modern in 1929. Today the site is home to the Fira de Barcelona convention center. The Neo-Baroque fountain provides a brilliant centerpiece for Plaça d’Espanya.
Getting There: The fairgrounds sprawl at the base of Montjuïc, from the Catalan Art Museum’s doorstep to Plaça d’Espanya. The easiest option is to see these sights on your way down from Montjuïc. Otherwise, ride the Metro to Espanya, then use the series of stairs and escalators to climb up through the heart of the fairgrounds (eventually reaching the Catalan Art Museum).
Music, colored lights, and huge amounts of water make an artistic and coordinated splash in the evening at Plaça d’Espanya.
Cost and Hours: Free, 20-minute shows start on the half-hour; almost always May-Sept Thu-Sun 21:00-23:30, no shows Mon-Wed; Oct-April Fri-Sat 19:00-21:00, no shows Sun-Thu; these are first and last show times; from the Espanya Metro stop, walk toward the towering National Palace.
The CaixaForum Social and Cultural Center (sponsored by the leading Catalan bank) is housed in one of Barcelona’s most important Art Nouveau buildings. In 1911, Josep Puig i Cadafalch (a top architect often overshadowed by Gaudí) designed the Casaramona textile factory, which showed off Modernista design in an industrial rather than a residential context. It functioned as a factory for less than a decade, then later served a long stint as a police station under Franco. Beautifully refurbished in 2002, the facility reopened as a great center for bringing culture and art to the people of Barcelona for free.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-21:00, July-Aug open Wed until 23:00, Avinguda de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8, tel. 934-768-600, obrasocial.lacaixa.es—click on “Culture.”
Architecture pilgrims flock to the pavilion that Ludwig Mies van der Rohe designed for the German exhibits at the 1929 expo. Even though it was dismantled at the end of the fair, the building was heralded as a seminal example of modern architecture, and in the 1980s, the city of Barcelona reconstructed it on the original site. It’s small and stripped-down—a strictly functional “Modernist” (i.e., decidedly not Modernista) structure. Inside are examples of the Barcelona Chair, a tubular steel and leather-cushioned chair that’s an icon of 20th-century furniture design. This building—staring down the CaixaForum from across the street—is a reminder that even just a couple of decades later, architecture highbrows already considered the over-the-top flourishes of Modernisme passé and overdone, or even embarrassing; Gaudí, Puig i Cadafalch, and company would fall out of fashion until the late 20th century.
Cost and Hours: €5, daily 10:00-20:00, Avinguda de Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 7, tel. 934-234-016, miesbcn.com.
This five-acre model village (a long hike up from the main World Expo esplanade; best to take bus #150 up) was built as part of the expo to show off the cultural and architectural diversity in Spain. Replicating traditional architecture from all over the country, the village was mostly a shell to contain gift shops—and today it still serves the same purpose. Craftspeople do their clichéd thing (mostly in the morning), and friendly shopkeepers offer plenty of tasty samples of traditional and local edibles. I think it’s tacky and overpriced, but if you never expect to visit an authentic Spanish village (this place is popular with cruise groups), here’s a pale substitute.
Cost and Hours: €11, €3.50 audioguide explains all the buildings, daily 10:00-20:00 or later, closes earlier off-season, poble-espanyol.com.
What do you do with a big bullfighting arena that’s been sitting empty for decades? Make a mall. The grand Neo-Moorish Modernista plaça de toros functioned as an arena for bullfights from around 1900 to 1977, and then reopened in 2011 as a mall. It now hosts everything you’d expect in a modern shopping center: lots of brand-name shops, a food-circus basement, a 12-screen cinema complex, a rock-and-roll museum, and a roof terrace with stupendous views of Plaça d’Espanya and Montjuïc (reachable by external glass elevator for €1 or from inside for free).
The terrace, with some of the best free views in town, is ringed with eateries. From here you get a bird’s-eye perspective of the fairgrounds. In the opposite direction, the park at your feet (called Parc de Joan Miró) includes the giant Miró sculpture Woman and Bird (Dona i Ocell). This was one of three works (along with the mosaic on the Ramblas—see here) that the city commissioned Miró to create in order to welcome visitors. Miró’s sense of humor is evident—if the sculpture seems phallic, keep in mind that the Catalan word for “bird” is also slang for “penis.”
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 10:00-22:00, restaurants serve until 24:00 and later, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 373-385, Metro: Espanya, arenasdebarcelona.com.
Book ahead. Barcelona is Spain’s most expensive city. Still, it has reasonably priced rooms. Cheap places are more crowded in summer; fancier business-class hotels fill up in winter and offer discounts on weekends and in summer. When considering relative hotel values, in summer and on weekends you can often get modern comfort in business-class hotels for about the same price (€100) as you’ll pay for ramshackle charm (and only a few minutes’ walk from the Old City action). Most TI branches (including those at Plaça de Catalunya, Plaça de Sant Jaume, and the airport) offer a room-finding service, though it’s cheaper to go direct.
While many of my recommendations are on pedestrian streets, night noise can be a problem (especially in cheap places, which have single-pane windows). For a quiet night, ask for “tranquilo” rather than “con vista.”
These hotels have sliding-glass doors leading to shiny reception areas, air-conditioning, and modern bedrooms. Most are on big streets within two blocks of Barcelona’s exuberant central square, where the Old City meets the Eixample. As business-class hotels, they have hard-to-pin-down prices that fluctuate with demand. I’ve listed the average rate you’ll pay. But in summer and on weekends, supply often far exceeds the demand, and many of these places cut prices to around €100—always check websites for a deal. Most of these are located between two Metro stops: Catalunya and Universitat; if arriving by Aerobus, note that the bus also stops at both places. The last three hotels listed here face a busy street; request a quieter room in back.
$$$ Hotel Catalonia Plaça Catalunya has four stars, an elegant old entryway with a modern reception area, splashy public spaces, slick marble and hardwood floors, 140 comfortable but simple rooms, and a garden courtyard with a pool a world away from the big-city noise. It’s a bit pricey for the quality of the rooms—you’re paying for the posh lobby (Db-€200 but can swing much higher or lower with demand, extra bed-€38, breakfast-€19, air-con, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, a half-block off Plaça de Catalunya at Carrer de Bergara 11, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-015-151, hoteles-catalonia.com, catalunya@hoteles-catalonia.es).
$$ Hotel Denit is a small, stylish, 36-room hotel on a pedestrian street two blocks off Plaça de Catalunya. It’s chic, minimalist, and fun: Guidebook tips decorate the halls, and the rooms are sized like T-shirts (“small” Sb-€79-109, “medium” Db-€99-119, “large” Db-€119-144, “XL” Db-€149-164, includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer d’Estruc 24-26, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 935-454-000, denit.com, info@denit.com).
$$ Hotel Reding, on a quiet street a 10-minute walk west of the Ramblas and Plaça de Catalunya action, is a slick and sleek place renting 44 mod rooms at a reasonable price (Db-€125—ask about free breakfast with this book but only if you book directly with the hotel—otherwise pay €14 for breakfast, prices go up during trade fairs, extra bed-€38, air-con, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer de Gravina 5-7, Metro: Universitat, tel. 934-121-097, hotelreding.com, recepcion@hotelreding.com).
$$ Hotel Inglaterra is owned by the same people as Hotel Denit (listed above) but on the other side of Plaça de Catalunya. It has 60 rooms, a more traditional style, a rooftop terrace, and swimming pool (Sb-€119, Db-€125, €30 more for bigger “deluxe” rooms, breakfast included if you book through their website—otherwise it’s €15, air-con, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer de Pelai 14, Metro: Universitat, tel. 935-051-100, hotel-inglaterra.com, reservas@hotel-inglaterra.com).
$$ Hotel Lleó (YEH-oh) is well-run, with 92 big, bright, and comfortable rooms; a great breakfast room; and a generous lounge (Db-€140-170 but flexes way up with demand, can be cheaper in summer, extra bed-about €30, breakfast-€13, air-con, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, small rooftop pool, Carrer de Pelai 22, midway between Metros: Universitat and Catalunya, tel. 933-181-312, hotel-lleo.com, info@hotel-lleo.com).
$$ Hotel Atlantis is solid, with 50 big, nondescript, modern rooms and fair prices for the location (Sb-€92, Db-€120, Tb-€138, check for deals on website, air-con, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer de Pelai 20, midway between Metros: Universitat and Catalunya, tel. 933-189-012, hotelatlantis-bcn.com, inf@hotelatlantis-bcn.com).
These places are generally family-run, with ad-lib furnishings, more character, and lower prices.
$$ Hotel Continental Barcelona, in a building overlooking the top of the Ramblas, offers classic, tiny view-balcony opportunities if you don’t mind the noise. Its 39 comfortable but faded rooms come with clashing carpets and wallpaper, and perhaps one too many clever ideas. Choose between your own little Ramblas-view balcony (where you can eat your breakfast) or a quieter back room. J. M.’s (José María’s) free breakfast and all-day snack-and-drink bar are a plus (Sb-€98, Db-€108, twin Db-€118, Db with Ramblas balcony-€128, extra bed-€40/adult or €20/child, ask about discount with this book when you book directly with the hotel, includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, quiet terrace, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Ramblas 138, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-012-570, hotelcontinental.com, barcelona@hotelcontinental.com).
$$ Hostería Grau is homey, family-run, and newly renovated in an eco-conscious style. Its 24 cheery rooms are a few blocks off the Ramblas in the colorful university district—but double-glazed windows keep it quiet (Db-€110-115, “superior” Db-€120-130, Tb-€135-145, Qb-€160-180, prices can jump during fairs and big events, ask about discount when you book directly with the hotel, breakfast extra, strict cancellation policy, air-con, elevator, some rooms with terrace, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, 200 yards up Carrer dels Tallers from the Ramblas at Ramelleres 27, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-018-135, hostalgrau.com, reservas@hostalgrau.com, Monica).
$ Hostal el Jardí offers 40 clean, remodeled rooms on a breezy square in the Barri Gòtic. Many of the tight, plain, comfy rooms come with petite balconies (for an extra charge) and enjoy an almost Parisian ambience. It’s a good deal only if you value the quaint-square-with-Barri-Gòtic ambience—you’re definitely paying for the location. Book well in advance, as this family-run place has an avid following (small basic interior Db-€75, nicer interior Db-€90, outer Db with balcony or twin with window-€95, large outer Db with balcony or square-view terrace-€110, no charge for extra bed, breakfast-€6, air-con, elevator, some stairs, free Wi-Fi, halfway between Ramblas and cathedral at Plaça Sant Josep Oriol 1, Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-015-900, eljardi-barcelona.com, reservations@eljardi-barcelona.com).
$ Hostal Operaramblas, with 68 plain rooms 20 yards off the Ramblas, is clean, institutional, modern, and a great value. The street can feel a bit seedy at night, but it’s safe, and the hotel is very secure (Sb-€46, Db-€66, book through website and use code “operaramblas” for discount, no breakfast but coffee and snack machines in lobby, air-con only in summer, elevator, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer de Sant Pau 20, Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-188-201, operaramblas.com, info@operaramblas.com).
These accommodations are buried in Barcelona’s Old City, mostly in the Barri Gòtic. The Catalunya, Liceu, and Jaume I Metro stops flank this tight tangle of lanes; I’ve noted which stop(s) are best for each.
$$$ Hotel Neri is posh, pretentious, and sophisticated, with 22 rooms spliced into the ancient stones of the Barri Gòtic, overlooking an overlooked square (Plaça Sant Felip Neri) a block from the cathedral. It has big flat-screen TVs, pricey modern art on the bedroom walls, dressed-up people in its gourmet restaurant, and stuffy service (Db-€260-300, suites-€320-400, generally cheaper on weekdays, breakfast-€22, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, rooftop tanning deck, Carrer de Sant Sever 5, Metro: Liceu or Jaume I, tel. 933-040-655, hotelneri.com, info@hotelneri.com).
$$$ Hotel Nouvel, in an elegant, Victorian-style building on a handy pedestrian street, is less business-oriented and offers more character than the others listed here. It boasts royal lounges and 78 comfy rooms (Sb-€132, Db-€205, online deals can be much much cheaper, extra bed-€35, includes breakfast, €20 deposit for TV remote, air-con, elevator, guest computer, pay Wi-Fi, Carrer de Santa Anna 20, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-018-274, hotelnouvel.com, info@hotelnouvel.com).
$$$ NH Hotel Barcelona Centro, with 156 rooms and tasteful chain-hotel predictability, is professional yet friendly, buried in the Barri Gòtic just three blocks off the Ramblas (Db-€160, but rates fluctuate with demand, bigger “superior” rooms on a corner with windows on 2 sides-€25 extra, breakfast-€16, air-con, elevator, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer del Duc 15, Metro: Catalunya or Liceu, tel. 932-703-410, nh-hotels.com, barcelonacentro@nh-hotels.com).
$$ Hotel Banys Orientals, a modern, boutique-type place, has a people-to-people ethic and refreshingly straight prices. Its 43 restful rooms are located in the El Born district on a pedestrianized street between the cathedral and Church of Santa Maria del Mar (Sb-€87, Db-€105, breakfast-€10, air-con, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer de l’Argenteria 37, 50 yards from Metro: Jaume I, tel. 932-688-460, hotelbanysorientals.com, reservas@hotelbanysorientals.com). They also run the adjacent, recommended El Senyor Parellada restaurant.
$$ Hotel Racó del Pi, part of the H10 hotel chain, is a quality, professional place with generous public spaces and 37 modern, bright, quiet rooms. It’s located on a wonderful pedestrian street immersed in the Barri Gòtic (Db-often around €130-145, can be as low as €100, cheaper if you book “nonrefundable” room online, breakfast-€10, air-con, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, around the corner from Plaça del Pi at Carrer del Pi 7, 3-minute walk from Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-426-190, h10hotels.com, h10.raco.delpi@h10.es).
$$ Hotel Regencia Colón, in a handy location one block in front of the cathedral, offers 50 slightly older but solid, classy, and well-priced rooms (Db-€120-140 but can go higher or lower with demand—check the website for the best rates, extra bed-€37, breakfast-€13, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Carrer dels Sagristans 13-17, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-189-858, hotelregenciacolon.com, info@hotelregenciacolon.com).
$ Hotel Cortés has 44 rooms on a traffic-free shopping street just off Avinguda Portal de l’Angel (between Plaça de Catalunya and the cathedral). It’s a bit sterile and scruffy, but well-priced and wonderfully located. Back rooms overlook an old extra muro cloister, while front rooms face the busy pedestrian drag (Sb-€70, Db-€100, includes breakfast, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Carrer de Santa Anna 25, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-179-112, hotelcortes.com, reservas@hotelcortes.com).
For an uptown, boulevard-like neighborhood, sleep in the Eixample, a 10-minute walk from the Ramblas action (see map on here). Most of these places use the Passeig de Gràcia or Catalunya Metro stops. Because these stations are so huge—especially Passeig de Gràcia, which sprawls underground for a few blocks—study the maps posted in the station to establish which exit you want before surfacing.
$$ Hotel Granvía, filling a palatial 1870s mansion, offers a large, peaceful sun patio and 58 spacious rooms (Sb-€75-185, Db-€90-150, superior Db-€105-225, family room-€120-245, mention Rick Steves to get best available rate, breakfast-€14, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 642, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, tel. 933-181-900, hotelgranvia.com, hgranvia@nnhotels.com).
$$ Hotel Continental Palacete, with 19 small rooms, fills a 100-year-old chandeliered mansion. With flowery wallpaper and ornately gilded stucco, it’s gaudy in the city of Gaudí, but it’s also friendly, quiet, and well-located. Guests have unlimited access to the outdoor terrace and the “cruise-inspired” fruit, veggie, and drink buffet (Sb-€108, Db-€145, €35-45 more for bigger and brighter view rooms, ask about discount with this book when you book directly with the hotel, extra bed-€55/adult or €40/child, includes breakfast, air-con, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, 2 blocks north of Plaça de Catalunya at corner of Rambla de Catalunya and Carrer de la Diputació, 30 Rambla de Catalunya, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, tel. 934-457-657, hotelcontinental.com, palacete@hotelcontinental.com).
$ Hostal Oliva, run with care by Oliva herself, is a spartan, old-school place with 15 basic, bright, high-ceilinged rooms and no breakfast or public spaces. It’s on the fourth floor of a classic old Eixample building in a perfect location, just a couple of blocks above Plaça de Catalunya (S-€41, D-€71, Db-€91, elevator, free Wi-Fi, corner of Passeig de Gràcia and Carrer de la Diputació, Passeig de Gràcia 32, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, tel. 934-880-162, hostaloliva.com, hostaloliva@lasguias.com).
$ BCN Fashion House B&B is a meditative place with 10 rooms, a peaceful lounge, and a leafy backyard terrace on the first floor of a nondescript old building (S-€36-56, D-€56-83, bigger “veranda” D-€73-93, Db-€90-125, 2-night minimum stay, breakfast-€6, Wi-Fi, between Carrer d’Ausiàs Marc and Ronda de Sant Pere at Carrer del Bruc 13, just steps from Metro: Urquinaona, mobile 637-904-044, bcnfashionhouse.com, info@bcnfashionhouse.com).
Equity Point Hostels: Barcelona has a terrific chain of well-run and centrally located hostels (tel. 932-312-045, equity-point.com), providing €25-32 dorm beds (prices lower off-season) in 4- to 14-bed coed rooms with €2 sheets and towels, guest computers, free Wi-Fi, included breakfast, lockers (B.Y.O. lock, or buy one there), and plenty of opportunities to meet other backpackers. They’re open 24 hours but aren’t party hostels, so they enforce quiet after 23:00. There are three locations to choose from: the Eixample, Barri Gòtic, or near the beach. $ Centric Point Hostel is a huge place renting 400 cheap beds at what must be the best address in Barcelona (bar, kitchen, Passeig de Gràcia 33—see map on here, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, tel. 932-151-796, centricpointhostel.com). $ Gothic Point Hostel rents 130 beds a block from the Picasso Museum (roof terrace, Carrer Vigatans 5—see map on here, Metro: Jaume I, reception tel. 932-687-808, gothicpoint.com). $ Sea Point Hostel has 70 beds on the beach nearby (Plaça del Mar 4—see map on here, Metro: Barceloneta, reception tel. 932-247-075, seapointhostel.com).
$ Somnio Hostel, an innovative smaller place run by a pair of American expats, has 26 beds in 10 rooms. Choose between dorms and private rooms (bunk in 6-bed dorm-€30, S-€50, D-€87, Db-€95; prices include sheets, towels, and lockers; air-con, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Carrer de la Diputació 251, second floor, Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, tel. 932-725-308, somniohostels.com, info@somniohostels.com). They have a second location that’s five blocks farther out.
Barcelona, the capital of Catalan cuisine—starring seafood—offers a tremendous variety of colorful eateries, ranging from basic and filling to chic and trendy. Most of my listings are lively spots with a busy tapas scene at the bar, along with restaurant tables for raciones. A regional specialty is pa amb tomàquet (pah ahm too-MAH-kaht), toasted bread rubbed with a mix of crushed tomato and olive oil.
I’ve listed mostly practical, characteristic, colorful, and affordable restaurants. My recommendations are grouped by neighborhood—along the Ramblas, in the Barri Gòtic, in El Born (best for foodies), in the Eixample, and in Barceloneta. I also include some budget options scattered throughout the city and a suggested route for finding Catalan sweets. Note that many restaurants close in August (or July), when the owners take a vacation.
Restaurants generally serve lunch from 13:00 to 16:00 and dinner from 20:00 or even later (Spaniards don’t start dinner until about 22:00). It’s deadly to your Barcelona experience to eat too early—if a place feels touristy, come back later and it may be a thriving local favorite.
Throughout the city, you’ll see signs both for Spanish tapas and Catalan tapes (same pronunciation and meaning). Note: Unlike in many Spanish cities, most Barcelona tapas bars do not provide a free, small tapa with the purchase of a drink; if you want food, order it separately.
Catalans seem to have an affinity for Basque culture, so you’ll find a lot of Basque-style tapas places here (look for basca or euskal taberna; euskal means “Basque”). Enticing buffets of bite-size tapas invite you to simply take what you want. These places are particularly user-friendly, since you don’t have to look at a menu or wait to be served—just grab what looks good, order a drink, and save your toothpicks (they’ll count them up at the end to tally your bill). I’ve listed several such places (including Taverna Basca Irati, Xaloc, and Sagardi Euskal Taberna), though Barcelona has many other similar options.
Within a few steps of the Ramblas, you’ll find handy lunch places, an inviting market hall, and some good vegetarian options. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Barcelona’s Old City Restaurants” map, here.)
Although these places are enjoyable for a lunch break during your Ramblas sightseeing, many are also open for dinner.
Taverna Basca Irati serves 40 kinds of hot and cold Basque pintxos for €1.95 each. These are small open-faced sandwiches—like sushi on bread. Muscle in through the hungry local crowd, get an empty plate from the waiter, and then help yourself. Every few minutes, waiters circulate with platters of new, still-warm munchies. Grab one as they pass by...it’s addictive (you’ll be charged by the number of toothpicks left on your plate when you’re done). Wash it down with €3-4 glasses of Rioja (full-bodied red wine), Txakolí (sprightly Basque white wine) or sidra (apple wine) poured from on high to add oxygen and bring out the flavor (daily 11:00-24:00, a block off the Ramblas, behind arcade at Carrer del Cardenal Casanyes 17, Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-023-084).
Restaurant Elisabets is a rough little neighborhood eatery packed with antique radios. It’s popular with locals for its €12 “home-cooked” three-course lunch special; even cheaper menú rapid options are also available (13:00-16:00 only). Stop by for lunch, survey what those around you are enjoying, and order what looks best. Apparently, locals put up with the service for the tasty food (Mon-Sat 7:30-23:00, closed Sun and Aug, €3 tapas all day, 2 blocks west of Ramblas on far corner of Plaça del Bonsuccés at Carrer d’Elisabets 2, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-175-826, run by Pilar).
Café Granja Viader is a quaint time capsule, family-run since 1870. They boast about being the first dairy business to bottle and distribute milk in Spain. This feminine-feeling place—specializing in baked and dairy treats, toasted sandwiches, and light meals—is ideal for a traditional breakfast. Or indulge your sweet tooth: Try a glass of orxata (or horchata—chufa-nut milk, summer only), llet mallorquina (Majorca-style milk with cinnamon, lemon, and sugar), crema catalana (crème brûlée, their specialty), or suis (“Swiss”—hot chocolate with a snowcap of whipped cream). Mel y mató is fresh cheese with honey...very Catalan (Mon-Sat 9:00-13:15 & 17:00-21:15, closed Sun, a block off the Ramblas behind Betlem Church at Xuclà 4, Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-183-486).
Cafeteria: For a quick, affordable lunch with a view, the ninth-floor cafeteria at El Corte Inglés can’t be beat (€10 salads and sandwiches, also café with €1.50 coffee and sit-down restaurant with €20 fixed-price meals, Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Sun, Plaça de Catalunya, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-063-800).
Picnics: Shoestring tourists buy groceries at El Corte Inglés (described above, supermarket in basement), Carrefour (Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00, closed Sun, Ramblas 113, Metro: Liceu), and La Boqueria market (closed Sun, described next).
(See “Barcelona’s Old City Restaurants” map, here.)
Try eating at La Boqueria market at least once (#91 on the Ramblas). Like all farmers’ markets in Europe, this place is ringed by colorful, good-value eateries. Lots of stalls sell fun takeaway food—especially fruit salads and fresh-squeezed juices—ideal for picnickers. There are several good bars around the market busy with shoppers munching at the counter (breakfast, tapas all day, coffee). The market, and most of the eateries listed here (unless noted), are open Monday through Saturday from 8:00 until 20:00 (though things get very quiet after about 16:00) and are closed on Sunday (nearest Metro: Liceu). For a more complete description of the market itself, see here of my “Ramblas Ramble.”
Pinotxo Bar is just to the right as you enter the market. It’s a great spot for coffee, breakfast (spinach tortillas, or whatever’s cooking with toast), or tapas. Fun-loving Juan and his family are La Boqueria fixtures. Grab a stool across the way to sip your drink with people-watching views. Be careful—this place can get expensive.
Kiosko Universal is popular for its great prices on wonderful fish dishes. As you enter the market from the Ramblas, it’s all the way to the left. If you see people waiting, ask who’s last in line (“¿El último?”). You’ll eat immersed in the spirit of the market (€7-14 dishes of the day with different fresh-fish options, €7 mixed veggies, €10 mushroom stir-fries, always packed but better before 12:30, tel. 933-178-286).
Restaurant la Gardunya, at the back of the market, offers tasty meat and seafood meals made with fresh ingredients bought directly from the market (€13.50 fixed-price lunch includes wine and bread, €16.50 three-course dinner specials include wine, €10-20 à la carte dishes, kitchen serves Mon-Sat 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00 but open from 7:00, closed Sun, mod seating indoors or outside watching the market action, Carrer Jerusalem 18, tel. 933-024-323).
Biocenter, a Catalan soup-and-salad restaurant busy with local vegetarians, takes its cooking very seriously and feels a bit more like a real restaurant than most (€8-10 weekday lunch specials include soup or salad and plate of the day, €15 dinner specials, otherwise €7-9 salads and €11-13 main dishes, Mon-Sat 13:00-23:00, Sun 13:00-16:00, 2 blocks off the Ramblas at Carrer del Pintor Fortuny 25, Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-014-583).
Juicy Jones is a tutti-frutti vegan/vegetarian eatery with colorful graffiti decor, a hip veggie menu (served downstairs), groovy laid-back staff, and a stunning array of fresh-squeezed juices served at the bar. Pop in for a quick €2.50 “juice of the day.” For lunch you can get the Indian-inspired €6 thali plate, the €6.25 plate of the day, or an €8.50 meal including one of the two plates plus soup or salad and dessert (daily 9:00-23:30, also tapas and salads, Carrer del Cardenal Casanyes 7, Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-024-330). There’s another location on the other side of the Ramblas (Carrer Hospital 74).
These eateries populate Barcelona’s atmospheric Gothic Quarter, near the cathedral. Choose between a sit-down meal at a restaurant or a string of tapas bars. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Barcelona’s Old City Restaurants” map, here.)
Café de l’Academia is a delightful place on a pretty square tucked away in the heart of the Barri Gòtic—but patronized mainly by the neighbors. They serve refined cuisine with Catalan roots using what’s fresh from the market. The candlelit, air-conditioned interior is rustic yet elegant, with soft jazz, flowers, and modern art. And if you want to eat outdoors on a convivial, mellow square...this is the place. Reservations can be smart (€10-13 first courses, €12-16 second courses, fixed-price lunch for €10 at the bar or €14 at a table, Mon-Fri 13:30-16:00 & 20:30-23:30, closed Sat-Sun, near the City Hall square, off Carrer de Jaume I up Carrer de la Dagueria at Carrer dels Lledó 1, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-198-253).
Els Quatre Gats (“The Four Cats”) was once the haunt of the Modernista greats—including a teenaged Picasso, who first publicly displayed his art here, and architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, who designed the building. Inspired by Paris’ famous Le Chat Noir café/cabaret, Els Quatre Gats celebrated all that was modern at the turn of the 20th century (for more on the illustrious history of the place, see here in the “Barri Gòtic Walk”). You can snack or drink at the bar, or go into the back for a sit-down meal. While touristy (less so later), the food and service are good, and the prices aren’t as high as you might guess (€17 three-course lunch special Mon-Fri 13:00-16:00, €12-22 plates, daily 10:00-24:00, just steps off Avinguda Portal de l’Angel at Carrer de Montsió 3, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-024-140).
Xaloc is the place in the old center for nicely presented gourmet tapas. It’s a classy, woody, modern dining room with a fun energy, good service, and reasonable prices. The walls are covered with Ibérica hamhocks and wine bottles. They focus on homestyle Catalan classics and serve only one quality of ham—and it’s tops. A gazpacho, plank of ham, pa amb tomàquet, and nice glass of wine make a terrific light meal (€2-6 tapas, €5-12 main dishes, open daily 11:00-23:00, kitchen serves 13:00-17:00 & 19:00-23:00, a block toward the cathedral from Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol at Carrer de la Palla 13, Metro: Catalunya, tel. 933-011-990).
Bar del Pi is a simple, hardworking bar serving good salads, sandwiches, and tapas. It has just a handful of tables on the most inviting little square in the Barri Gòtic (Tue-Sun 9:00-23:00, closed Mon, on Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol 1, Metro: Liceu, tel. 933-022-123).
Restaurant Agut, around since 1924, features a comfortable, wood-paneled dining room that’s modern and sophisticated, but still retains a slight bohemian air. The pictures lining the walls are by Catalan artists who are said to have exchanged their canvases for a meal. The menu includes very tasty traditional Catalan food, with some seasonal specialties (€13 three-course weekday lunch special, €10-14 starters, €13-25 main dishes, Tue-Sat 13:30-16:00 & 21:00-23:30, Sun 13:30-16:00 only, closed Mon, just up from Carrer de la Mercè and the harbor at Carrer d’En Gignàs 16, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-151-709).
Andilana Restaurants: A local chain called Andilana has several bright, modern eateries that are wildly popular for their artfully presented Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine, crisp ambience, and unbeatable prices (grupandilana.com). Because of their three-course €10 lunches and €16-21 dinners (both with wine), all are crowded with locals and in-the-know tourists (à la carte: €7-9 starters, €8-11 main dishes; the first three are near Metro: Liceu). Warning: These places are notoriously busy—arrive 30 minutes before opening, or be prepared to wait. Les Quinze Nits has great seating right on atmospheric Plaça Reial (daily 12:30-23:30, at #6—you’ll see the line, tel. 933-173-075). Two others are within a block: La Crema Canela, a few steps above Plaça Reial, feels cozier than the others and is the only one that takes reservations (Mon-Thu 13:00-23:00, Fri-Sun until 23:30, Passage de Madoz 6, tel. 933-182-744). La Fonda is a block below Plaça Reial (daily 13:00-23:30, Carrer dels Escudellers 10, tel. 933-017-515). Another location, La Dolça Herminia, is near the Palace of Catalan Music in El Born (daily 13:00-15:45 & 20:30-23:30, 2 blocks toward Ramblas from Palace of Catalan Music at Carrer de les Magdalenes 27, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-170-676); another restaurant in the chain, La Rita, is described later, under “Restaurants in the Eixample.”
This area lets you experience a rare, unvarnished bit of old Barcelona with great tascas—colorful local tapas bars. Get small plates (for maximum sampling) by asking for “tapas,” not the bigger “raciones.” Glasses of vino tinto go for about €1. And though trendy uptown restaurants are safer, better-lit, and come with English menus and less grease, these places will stain your journal. The neighborhood’s dark, the regulars are rough-edged, and you’ll get a glimpse of a crusty Barcelona from before the affluence hit. Nowadays many new, mod restaurants are popping up in the city, but don’t be seduced—you came here for something different. Try pimientos de Padrón—Russian roulette with little green peppers that are lightly fried in oil and salted...only a few are jalapeño-spicy. At the cider bars, it’s traditional to order queso de cabrales (a very moldy blue cheese) and spicy chorizo (sausage), ideally prepared al diablo (“devil-style”)—soaked in wine, then flambéed at your table. Several places serve leche de pantera (panther milk)—liquor mixed with milk.
From the bottom of the Ramblas (near the Columbus Monument, Metro: Drassanes), hike east along Carrer de Josep Anselm Clavé. When you reach Plaça de la Mercè, follow the small street (Carrer de la Mercè) that runs along the right side of the square’s church. For a montage of edible memories, wander the next three or four blocks and consider these spots, stopping wherever looks most inviting. Most of these places close down around 23:00. If you want more refined bar-hopping possibilities, skip over to Carrer Ample and Carrer d’En Gignàs, the streets parallel to Carrer de la Mercè inland.
Bar Celta (marked la pulpería, at #16) has a bit less character than the others, but eases you into the scene with fried fish, octopus, and patatas bravas, all with Galician Ribeiro wine. Farther down at the corner (#28), La Plata keeps things wonderfully simple, serving extremely cheap plates of sardines (€2.50), little salads, and small glasses of keg wine (less than €1). Tasca el Corral (#17) serves mountain favorites from northern Spain by the half-ración (see their list), such as queso de cabrales and chorizo al diablo with sidra (hard cider sold by the bottle-€6). Sidrería Tasca La Socarrena (#21) offers hard cider from Asturias in €6.50 bottles with queso de cabrales and chorizo. At the end of Carrer de la Mercè, Cerveceria Vendimia slings tasty clams and mussels (hearty raciones for €4-6 a plate—they don’t do smaller portions, so order sparingly). Sit at the bar and point to what looks good. Their pulpo (octopus) is more expensive and is the house specialty.
(See “Barcelona’s Old City Restaurants” map, here.)
El Born (a.k.a. La Ribera), the hottest neighborhood in town, sparkles with eclectic and trendy as well as subdued and classy little restaurants hidden in the small lanes surrounding the Church of Santa Maria del Mar. While I’ve listed a few well-established tapas bars that are great for light meals, to really dine, simply wander around for 15 minutes and pick the place that tickles your gastronomic fancy. I think those who say they know what’s best in this area are kidding themselves—it’s changing too fast, and the choices are too personal. One thing’s for sure: There are a lot of talented and hardworking restaurateurs with plenty to offer. Consider starting off your evening with a glass of fine wine at one of the enotecas on the square facing the Church of Santa Maria del Mar (such as La Vinya del Senyor). Sit back and admire the pure Catalan Gothic architecture. Most of my listings are either on Carrer de l’Argenteria (stretching from the church to the cathedral area) or on or near Carrer de Montcada (near the Picasso Museum). Many restaurants and shops in this area are, like the Picasso Museum, closed on Mondays. For locations, see the map on here.
Bar del Pla is a local favorite—near the Picasso Museum but far enough away from the tourist crowds. This classic diner/bar, overlooking a tiny crossroads next to Barcelona’s oldest church, serves traditional Catalan dishes, raciones, and tapas. Prices are the same at the bar or at a table, but eating at the bar puts you in the middle of a great scene (€4-11 tapas, Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon; with your back to the Picasso Museum, head right 2 blocks, past Carrer de la Princesa, to Carrer de Montcada 2; Metro: Jaume I, tel. 932-683-003).
La Vinya del Senyor is recommendable for its location—with wonderful tables on the square facing the Church of Santa Maria del Mar in the middle of a charming and lively pedestrian zone. Their wine list is extensive—7 cl gives you a few sips, while 14 cl is a standard serving. They also have good cheeses, hams, and tapas (Tue-Sun 12:00-24:00, closed Mon, Plaça de Santa Maria 5, Metro: Jaume I or Barceloneta, tel. 933-103-379).
El Senyor Parellada, filling a former cloister, is an elegant restaurant with a smart, tourist-friendly waitstaff. It serves a fun menu of Mediterranean and Catalan cuisine with a modern twist, all in a classy chandeliers-and-white-tablecloths setting (€10-18 plates, open daily 13:00-15:45 & 20:30-23:30, Carrer de l’Argenteria 37, 100 yards from Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-105-094).
Sagardi Euskal Taberna offers a wonderful array of Basque goodies—tempting pintxos and montaditos (miniature sandwiches) at €1.95 each—along its huge bar. Ask for a plate and graze (just take whatever looks good). You can sit on the square with your plunder for 20 percent extra. Wash it down with Txakolí, a Basque white wine poured from the spout of a huge wooden barrel into a glass as you watch. When you’re done, they’ll count your toothpicks to tally your bill (daily 12:00-24:00, Carrer de l’Argenteria 62-64, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-199-993).
Sagardi, hiding behind its thriving tapas bar (described above), is a mod, rustic, and minimalist woody restaurant committed to serving Basque T-bone steaks and grilled specialties with only the best ingredients. A big open kitchen with sizzling grills contributes to the ambience. Reservations are smart (€12-24 first courses, €20-28 second courses, plan on €50 for dinner, daily 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-24:00, Carrer de l’Argenteria 62, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-199-993, sagardi.com).
Taller de Tapas (“Tapas Workshop”) is an upscale, trendier tapas bar and restaurant that dishes up well-presented, sophisticated morsels and light meals in a medieval-stone-yet-mod setting. Pay 15 percent more to sit on the square. Elegant, but a bit stuffy, it’s favored by local office workers who aren’t into the Old World Gothic stuff. Four plates will fill a hungry diner for about €20 (daily 8:30-24:00, Carrer de l’Argenteria 51, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 932-688-559, tallerdetapas.com).
El Xampanyet (“The Little Champagne Bar”), a colorful family-run bar with a fun-loving staff (Juan Carlos, his mom, and the man who may be his father), specializes in tapas and anchovies. Don’t be put off by the seafood from a tin: Catalans like it this way. A sortido (assorted plate) of carne (meat) or pescado (fish) with pa amb tomàquet makes for a fun meal. It’s filled with tourists during the sightseeing day, but this is a local favorite after dark. The scene is great but—especially during busy times—it’s tough without Spanish skills. When I asked about the price, Juan Carlos said, “Who cares? The ATM is just across the street.” Plan on spending €25 for a meal with wine (same price at bar or table, Tue-Sat 12:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-16:00 only, closed Mon, a half-block beyond the Picasso Museum at Carrer de Montcada 22, Metro: Jaume I, tel. 933-197-003).
The people-packed boulevards of the Eixample (Passeig de Gràcia and Rambla de Catalunya) are lined with appetizing eateries featuring breezy outdoor seating. Choose between a real restaurant or an upscale tapas bar. For locations, see the map on here.
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Barcelona’s Eixample” map, here.)
La Rita is a fresh and dressy little restaurant serving Catalan cuisine near the Block of Discord. Their lunches (three courses with wine for €10, daily 13:00-15:45) and dinners (€10 plates, €21 fixed-price dinners, daily 20:30-23:30) are a great value. Like most of its sister Andilana restaurants—described on here—it takes no reservations and its prices attract a loyal following, so arrive just before the doors open...or wait (near corner of Carrer de Pau Claris and Carrer d’Aragó at d’Aragó 279, a block from Metro: Passeig de Gràcia, tel. 934-872-376).
La Bodegueta is an atmospheric below-street-level bodega serving hearty wines, homemade vermouth, anchoas (anchovies), tapas, and flautas—sandwiches made with flute-thin baguettes. On a nice day, it’s great to eat outside, sitting in the median of the boulevard under shady trees. Its daily €12 lunch special of three courses with wine is served 13:00-16:00. A long block from Gaudí’s La Pedrera, this makes a fine sightseeing break (Mon-Sat 7:00-24:00, Sun 18:30-24:00, at intersection with Carrer de Provença, Rambla de Catalunya 100, Metro: Provença, tel. 932-154-894).
Restaurante la Palmera serves a mix of Catalan, Mediterranean, and French cuisine in an elegant room with bottle-lined walls. This untouristy place offers great food, service, and value—for me, a very special meal in Barcelona. They have three zones: the classic main room, a more forgettable adjacent room, and a few outdoor tables. I like the classic room. Reservations are smart (€12-16 plates, creative €20 six-plate degustation lunch—also available during dinner Mon-Thu, open Mon-Sat 13:00-15:45 & 20:30-23:15, closed Sun, Carrer d’Enric Granados 57, at the corner with Carrer Mallorca, Metro: Provença, tel. 934-532-338, lapalmera.cat).
La Flauta fills two floors with enthusiastic eaters (I prefer the ground floor). It’s fresh and modern, with a fun, no-stress menu featuring €5 small plates, creative €5 flauta sandwiches, and a €12.50 three-course lunch deal including a drink. Consider the list of tapas del día. Good €2.60 wines by the glass are listed on the blackboard. This is a place to order high on the menu for a satisfying, moderately priced meal (Mon-Sat 7:00-24:00, closed Sun, upbeat and helpful staff recommends the fried vegetables, no reservations, just off Carrer de la Diputació at Carrer d’Aribau 23, Metro: Universitat, tel. 933-237-038).
Cinc Sentits (“Five Senses”), with only about 30 seats, is my gourmet recommendation. At this chic, minimalist, but slightly snooty place, all the attention goes to the fine service and beautifully presented dishes. The €59 essència menú and the €79 sensacions menú are unforgettable extravaganzas. Expect menús only—no à la carte. It’s run by Catalans who lived in Canada (so there’s absolutely no language barrier) and serve avant-garde cuisine inspired by Catalan traditions and ingredients. Reservations are essential (Tue-Sat 13:30-15:00 & 20:30-22:00, closed Sun-Mon, near Carrer d’Aragó at Carrer d’Aribau 58, between Metros: Universitat and Provença, tel. 933-239-490, cincsentits.com, maître d’ Amelia).
(See “Hotels & Restaurants in Barcelona’s Eixample” map, here.)
Many trendy and touristic tapas bars in the Eixample offer a cheery welcome and slam out the appetizers. These four are particularly handy to Plaça de Catalunya and the Passeig de Gràcia artery (for all of them, the closest Metro stops are Catalunya and Passeig de Gràcia).
Tapas 24 makes eating fun. This local favorite, with a few street tables, fills a spot a few steps below street level with happy energy, funky decor (white counters and mirrors), and absolutely excellent tapas. The menu has all the typical standbys and quirky inventions (such as the McFoie burger), plus daily specials. Service is friendly, and the owner, Carles Abellan, is one of Barcelona’s hot chefs. This is a chance to eat his food at reasonable prices, which are the same whether you dine at the bar, a table, or outside. Figure about €45 for lunch for two with wine (€4-12 tapas, €12-15 plates, Mon-Sat 9:00-24:00, closed Sun, just off Passeig de Gràcia at Carrer de la Diputació 269, tel. 934-880-977).
La Bodegueta Provença is a lively tapas bar/café with a multigenerational clientele and a pleasant buzz. Sit at a stool at the marble counter or grab a table, indoors or out. If you and your partner are hungry, order the half-kilo grilled steak piled high with Padrón peppers—wow! (€5-8.50 tapas, Mon-Sat 7:00-24:00, Sun 13:00-24:00, Carrer de Provença 233, tel. 932-151-725).
Ciutat Comtal Cerveceria brags that it serves the best montaditos (€2-4 little open-faced sandwiches) and beers in Barcelona. It’s an Eixample favorite, with an elegant bar and tables plus good seating out on the Rambla de Catalunya for all that people-watching action. It’s packed 21:00-23:00, when you’ll likely need to put your name on a list and wait. While it has no restaurant-type menu, the list of tapas and montaditos is easy, fun, and comes with a great variety (including daily specials). This place is a cut above your normal tapas bar, but with reasonable prices (most tapas around €4-10, daily 8:00-24:00, facing the intersection of Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes and Rambla de Catalunya at Rambla de Catalunya 18, tel. 933-181-997).
La Tramoia, at the opposite corner from Ciutat Comtal Cerveceria, serves piles of €1.75 montaditos and tapas at its ground-floor bar and at nice tables inside and out. If Ciutat Comtal Cerveceria is jammed, you’re more likely to find a seat here. The brasserie-style restaurant upstairs bustles with happy local eaters enjoying grilled meats (€9-20 plates), but I’d stay downstairs for the €4-9 tapas (daily 12:00-24:00 for tapas, 13:00-16:00 & 17:30-24:00 for meals, also facing the intersection of Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes and Rambla de Catalunya at Rambla de Catalunya 15, tel. 934-123-634).
The nearest Metro stop to this former sailors’ quarter is Barceloneta. For locations, see the map on here.
Along the Waterfront: Barceloneta’s harborfront (Passeig de Joan de Borbó), facing the city, is lined with multiple, interchangeable seafood restaurants and cafés. Locals love to come here for celebrity-spotting. One of many eateries along here is La Mar Salada, a traditional seafood restaurant with a slight modern twist. Their à la carte menu includes seafood-and-rice dishes, fresh fish, and homemade desserts. A nice meal will run you about €35-40 per person (€16 fixed-price weekday meal, Mon and Wed-Fri 13:00-16:00 & 20:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 13:00-23:00, closed Tue, indoor and outdoor seating, Passeig de Joan de Borbó 59, tel. 932-212-127).
In the Heart of Barceloneta: Can Solé, serving seafood since 1903, is a splurge. Hiding on a nondescript urban lane, this venerable restaurant draws a celebrity crowd, judging by the autographed pictures of the famous and not-so-famous that line the walls. But the place is homey, with sky-blue walls and café curtains, and the charming owner couldn’t be more gracious (Tue-Sat 13:30-16:00 & 20:30-23:00, Sun 13:30-16:00 only, closed Mon, Carrer de Sant Carles 4, one block off the harborfront promenade, tel. 932-215-012, restaurantcansole.com).
Bakery: Baluard, one of Barcelona’s most highly regarded artisan bakeries, faces one side of the big market hall in the center of Barceloneta. Line up with the locals to get a loaf of heavenly bread, a pastry, or a slice of pizza (Mon-Sat 8:00-21:00, closed Sun, Carrer del Baluard 38, tel. 932-211-208).
Bright, clean, and inexpensive sandwich shops proudly hold the cultural line against the fast-food invasion that has hamburgerized the rest of Europe. Catalan sandwiches are made to order with crunchy French bread. Rather than butter, locals prefer tomàquet (a spread of crushed tomatoes). You’ll see two big local chains (Bocatta and Pans & Company) everywhere, but these serve mass-produced McBaguettes ordered from a multilingual menu. I’ve had better luck with hole-in-the-wall sandwich shops—virtually as numerous as the chains—where you can see exactly what you’re getting.
For international options, try Mucci’s Pizza for good, fresh €2 pizza slices and empanadas (two locations just off the Ramblas, at Bonsuccés 10 and Tallers 75, muccis.com). Wok to Walk makes tasty food on the run, serving up noodles and rice in takeaway containers with your choice of meat and/or veggies and finished with a savory sauce (€6-9, 3 locations—by the main door of the Boqueria Market, two steps from the Liceu Opera House, and near Plaça de Sant Jaume, woktowalk.com). Kebab places are another good, super-cheap standby; you’ll see them all over town, offering a quick and tasty meal for about €3-4.
Let me propose this three-stop dessert (or, since these places close well before the traditional Barcelona dinnertime, a late-afternoon snack). Start with a chunk of torró or a glass of orxata, then munch some churros con chocolate, and end with a visit to a fine xocolateria—all within a three-minute walk of one another in the Barri Gòtic just off the Ramblas (Metro: Liceu). Start at the corner of Carrer de la Portaferrissa midway down the Ramblas. For the best atmosphere, begin your walk at about 18:00 (note that the last place is closed on Sun). For locations, see the map on here.
Torró at Casa Colomina: Walk down Carrer de la Portaferrissa to #8 (on the right). Casa Colomina, founded in 1908, specializes in homemade torró (or turrón in Spanish)—a variation of nougat made with almond, honey, and sugar, brought to Spain by the Moors 1,200 years ago. Three different kinds are sold in €8-12 slabs: blando, duro, and yema—soft, hard, and yolk (€2 prewrapped chunks on the counter). In the summer, the shop also sells ice cream and the refreshing orxata (or horchata, a drink made from chufa nuts—a.k.a. earth almonds or tiger nuts). Order a glass and ask to see and eat a chufa nut (Mon-Sat 10:00-20:30, Sun 12:30-20:30, tel. 933-122-511).
Churros con Chocolate at Granja La Pallaresa: Continue down Carrer de la Portaferrissa, taking a right at Carrer Petritxol to this fun-loving xocolateria. Elegant, older ladies gather here for the Spanish equivalent of tea time—dipping their greasy churros into pudding-thick cups of hot chocolate (€4.50 for five churros con chocolate). Or, for a more local treat, try an ensaïmada (a Mallorca-style croissant with powdered sugar) or the crema catalana, like a crème brûlée (Mon-Fri 9:00-13:00 & 16:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 9:00-13:00 & 17:00-21:00, Carrer Petritxol 11, tel. 933-022-036).
Homemade Chocolate at Fargas: For your last stop, head for the ornate Fargas chocolate shop. Continue down Carrer Petritxol to the square, hook left through the two-part square, and then left up Carrer del Pi to the corner of Carrer de la Portaferrissa. Since the 19th century, gentlemen with walking canes have dropped by here for their chocolate fix. Founded in 1827, this is one of the oldest and most traditional chocolate shops in Barcelona. If they’re not too busy, ask to see the old chocolate mill (“¿Puedo ver el molino?”) to the right of the counter. (It’s still used, but nowadays it’s powered by a machine rather than a donkey in the basement.) They sell even tiny quantities (one little morsel) by the weight, so don’t be shy. A delicious chunk of the crumbly semisweet house specialty costs €0.50 (glass bowl on the counter). The tempting bonbons in the window cost about €1-2 each (Mon-Sat 9:30-13:30 & 16:00-20:00, closed Sun).
Barcelona’s main train station is vast and sprawling, but manageable. In the large lobby area under the upper tracks, you’ll find a TI, ATMs, a world of handy shops and eateries, car-rental kiosks, and, in the side concourse, a classy, quiet Sala Club lounge for travelers with first-class reservations (TV, free drinks, study tables, and coffee bar). Sants is the only Barcelona station with luggage storage (small bag-€3.60/day, big bag-€5.20/day, requires security check, daily 5:30-23:00, follow signs to consigna, at far end of hallway from tracks 13-14).
In the vast main hall is a very long wall of ticket windows. Figure out which one you need before you wait in line (all are labeled in English). Generally, windows 1-7 (on the left) are for local commuter and media distancia trains, such as to Sitges; windows 8-21 handle advance tickets for long-distance (larga distancia) trains beyond Catalunya; the information windows are 22-26—go here first if you’re not sure which window you want; and windows 27-31 sell tickets for long-distance trains leaving today. The information booths by windows 1 and 21 can help you find the right line and can provide some train schedules. Scattered nearby are two types of train-ticket vending machines: The red-and-gray machines sell tickets for local and media distancia trains within Catalunya; the purple machines are for national RENFE trains, but these don’t sell tickets—you can only use them to print out prereserved tickets (if you have a confirmation code).
Getting Downtown: To reach the center of Barcelona, take a train or the Metro. To ride the subway, follow signs for the Metro (red M), and hop on the L3 (green) or L5 (blue) line, both of which link to a number of useful points in town. To zip downtown even faster (just five minutes), you can take any Rodalies de Catalunya suburban train from track 8 (R1, R3, or R4) to Plaça de Catalunya (departs at least every 10 minutes). Purchase tickets for the trains or Metro at touch-screen machines near the tracks (where you can also buy the cost-saving T10 Card, explained on here).
Unless otherwise noted, these trains all depart from Sants Station; however, remember that some trains also stop at other stations more convenient to the downtown tourist zone: França Station, Passeig de Gràcia, or Plaça de Catalunya. Figure out if your train stops at these stations (and board there) to save yourself the trip to Sants.
If departing from the downtown Passeig de Gràcia Station, where three Metro lines converge with the rail line, you might find the underground tunnels confusing. You can’t access the RENFE station directly from some of the entrances. Use the northern entrances to this station (rather than the southern “Consell de Cent” entrance, which is closest to Plaça de Catalunya). Train info: tel. 902-320-320, renfe.com.
From Barcelona by Train to Madrid: The AVE train has shaved hours off the journey to Madrid, making it faster than flying (when you consider that you’re zipping from downtown to downtown). The train departs at least hourly (nonstop service 2.5 hours; with a few stops, 3 hours). Regular reserved AVE tickets can be prepurchased (often with a discount) at renfe.com and picked up at the station. If you have a rail pass, you’ll pay only a reservation fee of €23 for first class, which includes a meal (€10 second class, buy at any train station in Spain). Passholders can’t reserve online through RENFE but can make the reservation at raileurope.com for delivery before leaving the US ($17 in second class, $40 in first class). There’s also a slow overnight train to Madrid’s Chamartín station (9 hours).
From Barcelona by Train to: Sevilla (11/day, 5.5-6 hours; also 1 night train, 13 hours), Granada (1/day, 9.5 hours via AVE and Altaria, transfer in Madrid; also 1 night train daily, 10.5 hours), Lisbon (no direct trains, head to Madrid and then catch night train to Lisbon, 17 hours—or fly).
From Barcelona by Train to France: Direct high-speed trains connect Barcelona to Paris (3/day, 6.5 hours), Lyon (1/day, 5 hours), and Toulouse (1/day, 3 hours). For slower but more frequent connections to France, you can also change in Cerbère (7/day from Barcelona, 2.75 hours). Connections include Nice (2/day, 10 hours, change in Figueres-Vilafant and Valence; slower and cheaper connections possible with multiple changes including Cerbère).
Most buses depart from the Nord bus station at Metro: Arc de Triomf, but confirm when researching schedules (barcelonanord.com). Destinations served by Alsa buses (tel. 902-422-242, alsa.es) include Madrid (nearly hourly, 8 hours).
Barcelona’s primary airport is eight miles southwest of town. It has two large terminals: 1 and 2. Air France, Air Europa, American, British Airways, Delta, Iberia, Lufthansa, United, US Airways, Vueling, and others use the newer terminal 1. EasyJet and minor airlines use terminal 2 (which is divided into sections A, B, and C). The terminals are linked by shuttle buses.
Terminal 1 and the bigger sections of terminal 2 (A and B) each have a post office, a pharmacy, a left-luggage office, plenty of good cafeterias in the gate areas, and ATMs (use the bank-affiliated ATMs in the arrivals hall). TIs are located in terminals 1 and 2B (airport code: BCN, info tel. 913-211-000, aena-aeropuertos.es).
Getting Downtown: To reach central Barcelona cheaply and quickly, take either the bus or train (about 30 minutes on either). The Aerobus (#A1 and #A2, corresponding with terminals 1 and 2) stops immediately outside the arrivals lobby of both terminals (and in each section of terminal 2). In about 30 minutes, it takes you to downtown, where it makes several stops, including Plaça d’Espanya and Plaça de Catalunya—near many of my recommended hotels (departs every 5 minutes, from airport 6:00-1:00 in the morning, from downtown 5:30-24:15, €5.90 one-way, €10.30 round-trip, buy ticket from machine or from driver, tel. 934-156-020, aerobusbcn.com).
The RENFE train (on the “R2 Sud” Rodalies line) leaves from terminal 2 and involves more walking. Head down the long orange-roofed overpass between sections A and B to reach the station (2/hour at about :08 and :38 past the hour, 20 minutes to Sants Station, 25 minutes to Passeig de Gràcia Station—near Plaça de Catalunya and many recommended hotels, 30 minutes to França Station; €3.80 or covered by T10 Card—described on here—which you can purchase at automated machines at the airport train station). Long-term plans call for the RENFE train and eventually the AVE to be extended to terminal 1, and for the Metro’s L9 (orange) line to be extended to both terminals 1 and 2. Stay tuned.
A taxi between the airport and downtown costs about €36—about €30 on the meter plus a €4.20 airport supplement and fee of €1 per bag. For good service, add a 10 percent tip.
Some budget airlines, including Ryanair, use this airport, located 60 miles north of Barcelona near Girona (airport code: GRO, tel. 972-186-600, aena-aeropuertos.es). Ryanair runs a bus, operated by Sagalés, to the Barcelona Nord bus station (€16, departs airport about 20-25 minutes after each arriving flight, 1.25 hours, tel. 902-361-550, sagales.com). You can also take a Sagalés bus (hourly, 25 minutes, €2.50) or a taxi (€25) to the town of Girona, then catch a train to Barcelona (at least hourly, 1.25 hours, €15-20). A taxi between the Girona airport and Barcelona costs at least €120.