Interlaken • Lauterbrunnen • Gimmelwald • Mürren
Map: Alpine Lifts in the Berner Oberland
Self-Guided Walk in Interlaken
Activities in and near Lauterbrunnen
Lauterbrunnen Valley Connections
Self-Guided Walk in Gimmelwald
Activities in the Berner Oberland
Frolic and hike high above the stress and clouds of the real world. Take a vacation from your busy vacation. Recharge your touristic batteries high in the Alps, where distant avalanches, cowbells, the fluff of a down comforter, the whistle of marmots, and the crunchy footsteps of happy hikers are the dominant sounds. If the weather’s good (and your budget’s healthy), ride a cable car from the traffic-free village of Gimmelwald to a hearty breakfast at the revolving Piz Gloria restaurant, on top of the 9,748-foot Schilthorn. Linger among alpine whitecaps before riding, hiking, or paragliding down 5,000 feet to Mürren and home to Gimmelwald.
Your gateway to the rugged Berner Oberland, the mountainous part of the canton of Bern, is the grand old resort town of Interlaken. Near Interlaken is Switzerland’s open-air folk museum, Ballenberg, where you can climb through original traditional houses gathered from every corner of this diverse country.
Ah, but the weather’s fine and the Alps beckon. Head deep into the heart of the Alps, and ride the cable car to the stop just this side of heaven—Gimmelwald.
Rather than tackle a checklist of famous Swiss mountains and resorts, choose one region to savor: the Berner Oberland.
Interlaken is the region’s administrative headquarters and transportation hub. Use it for business—banking, post office, laundry, shopping—and as a springboard for alpine thrills.
The highest-altitude lifts are very expensive, and it only makes sense to splurge if you have a good chance of seeing an alpine panorama instead of fog or clouds. Let your plans flex with the weather. If it’s good—go! Ask at your hotel or the TI for the latest info or check jungfrau.ch or schilthorn.ch. Webcams showing live video from the famous (and most expensive-to-reach) peaks play just about wherever you go in the area.
If the weather’s decent, explore the two areas that tower above either side of the Lauterbrunnen Valley, south of Interlaken: On one side is the Jungfrau (and beneath it, the tiny settlement of Kleine Scheidegg), and on the other is the Schilthorn (overlooking the villages of Gimmelwald and Mürren).
Ideally, spend three nights in the region, with a day exploring each side of the valley. For accommodations without the expense and headache of mountain lifts, consider the valley-floor village of Lauterbrunnen. But for the best overnight options, I’d stay on the scenic ridge high above the valley, in the rustic hamlet of Gimmelwald or the resort town of Mürren. I’ve also listed a few options in other nearby mountain hamlets.
For a summary of the wildly scenic activities this region has to offer (from panoramic train rides and lifts to spectacular hikes and mountain biking), see “Activities in the Berner Oberland” on here.
If your time is very limited, consider a night in Gimmelwald, breakfast at the Schilthorn, an afternoon doing the Männlichen-Kleine Scheidegg hike, and an evening or night train out. What? A nature lover not spending the night high in the Alps? Alpus interruptus.
For more than a century, this region has been the target of nature-worshipping pilgrims. And Swiss engineers and visionaries have made the most exciting alpine perches accessible.
Part of the fun—and most of the expense—here is riding the many mountain trains and lifts (gondolas and cable cars).
Trains connect Interlaken to Wilderswil, Lauterbrunnen, Wengen, Kleine Scheidegg, the Jungfraujoch, and also Grindelwald. Lifts connect Wengen to Männlichen and Grund (near Grindelwald); Grindelwald to First; Lauterbrunnen to Grütschalp (where a train connects to Mürren); and the cable-car station near Stechelberg to Gimmelwald, Mürren, and the Schilthorn.
For an overview of your many options, study the “Alpine Lifts in the Berner Oberland” map on here and the “Berner Oberland at a Glance” sidebar on here. Lifts generally go at least twice hourly, from about 7:00 until about 20:00 (sneak preview: jungfrau.ch or schilthorn.ch).
Beyond Interlaken, trains and lifts into the Jungfrau region are only 25 percent covered by Eurail passes (doesn’t require a flexi-day); with the Swiss Pass, they’re free up to Wengen or Mürren (uphill from there, passholders get 25-50 percent off). Ask about discounts for early-morning and late-afternoon trips, youths, seniors, families, groups (assemble a party of 10 and you’ll save about 25 percent), and those staying awhile. Generally, round-trips are double the one-way cost, though some high-up trains and lifts are 10-20 percent cheaper. It’s possible to buy a package covering all of your lifts at once, but then you don’t have the flexibility to change with the weather.
Popular Passes: The Junior Card, for families traveling with children, is a great deal, and pays for itself in the first hour of trains and lifts (30 SF/one child, 60 SF/two or more children, lets children under 16 travel free with at least one parent, buy at Swiss train stations).
The Berner Oberland Regional Pass covers most trains, buses, and lifts in this area (and all the way to Bern, Luzern, Gstaad, and Brig). It doesn’t, however, cover the full cost of some popular (and pricey) high-altitude lifts and trains, such as the Mürren-Schilthorn cable car, and the train from Kleine Scheidegg up to the Jungfraujoch. While it could save you money over individual tickets, consider that it’s not much cheaper than a Swiss Pass that covers the whole country (4 days-230 SF, 6 days-290 SF, 8 days-330 SF, discount with Swiss Pass, valid May-Oct, regiopass-berneroberland.ch).
The six-day Jungfraubahnen Pass (250 SF) and the three-day Jungfrau VIP pass (235 SF) are more limited in scope, covering just transportation on the east side of the valley, plus from Lauterbrunnen to Mürren via Grütschalp. The VIP pass includes one trip to the Jungfraujoch, but doesn’t cover certain other lifts that are free with the six-day version. Both passes limit your flexibility and are hard to make pay off (valid May–Oct only, tel. 033-828-7233, jungfraubahn.ch).
Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, and Stechelberg are all accessible by car. You can’t drive to Gimmelwald, Mürren, Wengen, or Kleine Scheidegg, but don’t let that stop you from staying up in the mountains; park the car and zip up on a lift. To catch the lift to Gimmelwald, Mürren, and the Schilthorn, park at the cable-car station near Stechelberg (3 SF/2 hours, 7 SF/day, cash only; see here for more information). To catch the train to Wengen or Kleine Scheidegg, park at the train station in Lauterbrunnen (2.50 SF/2 hours, 10.50 SF/9-24 hours).
Closed Days: On Sundays and holidays (including the lesser-known religious holidays), small-town Switzerland is quiet. Hotels are open and lifts and trains run, but many stores are closed.
Off-Season Closures: Note that at higher altitudes many hotels, restaurants, and shops are closed between the skiing and hiking seasons: from late April until late May, and again from mid-October to early December.
Rainy-Day Options: When it rains here, locals joke that they’re washing the mountains. If clouds roll in, don’t despair. They can roll out just as quickly. With good rain gear and the right choice of trail, you can thoroughly enjoy a hike in the rain, with surprise views popping out all around you as the clouds break. Some good bad-weather options are the North Face Trail, the walk from Mürren or Allmendhubel to Grütschalp, the Sefinen Valley hike, and the Lauterbrunnen Valley walk. Also consider a visit to Trümmelbach Falls or the Lauterbrunnen Valley Folk Museum. All of these options are described in this chapter.
Visitors Cards (Gästekarten): The hotels in various towns issue free Visitors Cards that include small discounts on some sights. Though these cards won’t save you much, you can ask at your hotel for the details.
Skiing and Snowboarding: The Berner Oberland is a great winter-sports destination, with good snow on its higher runs, incredible variety, relatively reasonable prices, and a sense of character that’s missing in many swankier resort areas. You can even swish with the Swiss down the world’s longest sledding run (9 miles long, out of Grindelwald, only open when snow’s good). Three ski areas cluster around the Lauterbrunnen Valley: Mürren-Schilthorn (best for experts), Kleine Scheidegg-Männlichen (busiest, best variety of runs), and Grindelwald-First (best for beginners and intermediates, but lower elevation can make for iffier snowpack). Lift tickets cost around 70 SF a day, or you can buy the two-day Sportspass Jungfrau, which covers all three areas, for a little over 130 SF (see jungfrauwinter.ch for prices and info).
When the 19th-century Romantics redefined mountains as something more than cold and troublesome obstacles, Interlaken became the original alpine resort. Ever since, tourists have flocked to the Alps “because they’re there.” Interlaken’s glory days are long gone, its elegant old hotels eclipsed by the newer, swankier alpine resorts. Today, it’s an alpine gateway town (rated ▲), with shops filled with chocolate bars, Swiss Army knives, and sunburned backpackers.
While European jet-setters are elsewhere, Interlaken is cashing in on a huge interest from India and the Arab world. Indians come to escape their monsoon season—especially in April and May—and to visit places they’ve seen in their movies. (The Alps often stand in for Kashmir, which is less accessible to film crews.) There’s even a restaurant called “Bollywood” atop the Jungfraujoch. People from the hot and dry Arabian Peninsula come here just to photograph their children frolicking in the mist and fog.
Efficient Interlaken (pop. 5,500) is above all a good administrative and shopping center. Take care of business, give the town a quick look, and view the webcam coverage (at the TI) of the weather higher up...then head for the hills.
Interlaken straddles the river that connects the two lakes. The older part of town (called Unterseen) is on the right bank and has pockets of charm and a cute village square. The newer section (Interlaken proper), with most services and both train stations, is on the left bank.
A small TI operates at the Interlaken Ost train station in summer and is convenient if you’re arriving there (June-Sept daily 8:30-18:30, may also open shorter hours off-season).
Otherwise, visit the main TI, located under the 18-story skyscraper on the main street between the two train stations, a 10-minute stroll from either (May-June Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-16:00, closed Sun; July-Aug Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00, Sat 8:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-16:00; Sept Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 8:00-16:00, closed Sun; Oct-April Mon-Fri 8:00-12:00 & 13:30-18:00, Sat 9:00-12:00, closed Sun, Höheweg 37, tel. 033-826-5300, interlaken.ch). Pick up a free town map; the timetable and the hiking guide published by the Jungfraubahn mountain railway (both including a good free map of the area); and the Here & Now monthly entertainment guide. If you’re planning to visit Kleine Scheidegg, the Jungfraujoch, or other destinations served by the Jungfraubahn, they run a ticket counter inside the TI.
Interlaken has two train stations: Ost (East) and West. Interlaken Ost is the name you’ll see most often on train schedules, and it’s the transfer point for narrow-gauge trains to the high mountains (to Lauterbrunnen, Gimmelwald, etc.) and to Luzern. The main reason to get off at this station is if you’re headed to those destinations or staying at the official youth hostel (next door). Interlaken Ost has free WCs, lockers (3-5 SF), ticket counters, and a branch TI.
If you’re staying in Interlaken, get off at Interlaken West, which is closer to my listed hotels and downtown shopping and services. All trains from western Switzerland—Bern, the Golden Pass, Basel—stop at Interlaken West, and then continue to Interlaken Ost. Interlaken West also has free WCs, lockers (4-5 SF, by track 1), ticket counters (daily 6:40-19:00), but no TI.
It’s a pleasant 20-minute walk between the West and Ost train stations; an easy, frequent train connection (2-3/hour, 3.60 SF); or a quick trip on the bus (2/hour, 10 minutes, 3.60 SF).
Laundry: Friendly Helen Schmocker’s Wäscherei has a change machine, soap, English instructions, and a delightful riverside location (self-service daily 7:00-22:00—wash-6 SF/load, dry-about 5 SF/load; full service Mon-Fri 8:00-12:00 & 13:30-18:00, Sat until 16:00, closed Sun, drop off in the morning and pick up that afternoon—12 SF/load; from the main street take Marktgasse over two bridges to Beatenbergstrasse 5, tel. 033-822-1566).
Bike Rental: Flying Wheels, a short walk from Ost Station, is a hip, well-organized, family-friendly outfit that specializes in electric bikes and guided bike tours of the area. Its amiable English-speaking staff give tips on where to go and can help you pick the right bike (electric bikes—35 SF/half-day, 50 SF/day; normal mountain bikes—25 SF/half-day, 33 SF/day; 5 SF cheaper with Swiss Pass, no discount with Eurail pass, tandem electric bikes available, helmets included, May-Sept daily 9:00-20:00, April and Oct daily 9:30-18:30, closed Nov-March, across street from the northeast corner of Höhematte Park at Höheweg 133, tel. 033-557-8838, flyingwheels.ch). For info on their tours, see “Adventure Sports,” later.
A short walk from West Station, Eiger Sport rents bikes for a little less than Flying Wheels, but they charge for helmets (8 SF/hour, 10 SF/2 hours, 15 SF/3 hours, 20 SF/half-day, 30 SF/day, helmets-5 SF/day, Mon-Fri 8:30-12:00 & 13:30-18:30, Sat 8:30-16:00, closed Sun; from West Station, cross the river—it’s on the left at Bahnhofstrasse 2, tel. 033-823-2043, eiger-sport.ch).
Most visitors use Interlaken as a springboard for high-altitude thrills (and rightly so). But the town itself has history and scenic charm and is worth a short walk. This 45-minute stroll circles from the West train station, down the main drag to the big meadow, past the casino, along the river to the oldest part of town (called Unterseen—historically a separate town), and back to the station.
• From the West train station, walk along...
Bahnhofstrasse: This main drag, which turns into Höheweg as it continues east, cuts straight through the town center from the West train station to the Ost train station. The best Swiss souvenir shopping is along this stretch (finer shops are on the Höheweg stretch, near the fancy hotels). At the roundabout is the handy post office (with free public WCs). At Höheweg 2, the TV in the window of the Schilthornbahn office shows the weather up top.
The 18-story Metropole Hotel (a.k.a. the “concrete shame of Interlaken”) is by far the town’s tallest building. Step right into the main lobby (through the second set of doors) and ride the elevator to the top for a commanding view of the “inter-laken” area, and gaze deep into the Jungfrau region to the scenic south. A meal or drink here costs no more than one back on earth. Consider sipping a drink on the outdoor view terrace (or come back tonight—it’s open very late).
• On your right is...
Höhematte Park: This “high meadow,” or Höhematte (but generally referred to simply as “the park”), marks the beginning of Interlaken’s fancy hotel row. Hotels like the Victoria-Jungfrau harken back to the days when Interlaken was the top alpine resort (late 19th century). The first grand hotels were built here to enjoy the views of the Jungfrau in the distance. (Today, the junge Frauen getting the most attention are next door, at Hooters.)
The park originated as farmland belonging to the monastery that predated the town (marked today by the steeples of both the Catholic and Protestant churches—neither are of any sightseeing interest). The actual monastery site is now home to the courthouse and county administration building. With the Reformation in 1528, the monastery was shut down, and its land was taken by the state. Later, as developers started to eye the parkland, the town’s leading hotels and business families bought it and established that it would never be used for commercial buildings (a very early example of smart town planning). There was talk of building a parking lot under it, but the water table here, between the two lakes, is too high. (That’s why the town cemetery is up on the hillside.) Today, this is a fine place to stroll, hang out on the park benches or at Restaurant Schuh, and watch the paragliders gracefully land.
Across the street from the park, right where the path that bisects the park hits Höheweg, turn left onto the grounds of the Casino Kursaal, where, at the top of each hour, dwarves ring the toadstools on the flower clock. The Kursaal, originally a kind of 19th-century fat farm, is now both a casino (passport but no tie required to enter) and a convention center.
• Follow the path left of the Kursaal to the river (huge public swimming pool just over the river). Walk downstream under the train track and cross the pedestrian bridge, stopping in the middle to enjoy the view.
Aare River: The Aare River is Switzerland’s longest. It connects Lake Brienz and Lake Thun (with an 18-foot altitude difference—this short stretch has quite a flow). Then it tumbles out of Lake Thun, heading for Bern and ultimately into the Rhine. Its level is controlled by several sluices. In the distance, a church bell tower marks a different parish and the technically separate town of Unterseen, across the river. Behind the spire is the pointy summit of the Niesen (like so many Swiss peaks, capped with a restaurant and accessible by a lift). Stroll downstream along the far side of the river to the church spire. The delightful riverside walk is lined by fine residences. Notice that your Jungfrau view now includes the Jungfraujoch observation deck (the little brown bump in the ridge just left of the peak).
• At the next bridge, turn right to the town square lined with 17th-century houses on one side and a modern strip on the other.
Unterseen: This was a town when Interlaken was only a monastery, and preserves a little of its medieval layout and streetscape. The church is not worth touring. A block away to the left, the worthwhile—but generally empty—Museum of Tourism (grandly named, but really a local history museum) shows off classic posters, fascinating photos of the construction of the Jungfraujoch, and exhibits on folk life, crafts, and winter sports—all well-described in English (5 SF, 4 SF with local guest card, covered by Swiss Pass, May-mid-Oct Tue-Sun 14:00-17:00, closed Mon and mid-Oct-April, Obere Gasse 26, tel. 033-822-9839, touristikmuseum.ch). Return to Station: From Unterseen, cross the river on Spielmatte, and you’re a few minutes’ walk from your starting point. On the second bridge, notice the border between the two towns/parishes, marked by their respective heraldic emblems (each with an ibex, a wild mountain goat). A block or so later, on the left, is the Marktplatz. The river originally ran through this square. The settlement on this side of the river used to be called “Aarmühle” (“mill on the Aare”), after the mill that was here. But in the 19th century, town fathers mindful of the English tourists flocking here made a key marketing decision: They ditched the difficult-to-pronounce “Aarmühle” and changed the name to the romantic “Interlaken” (“between the lakes”). Judging from the throngs of tourists on the main drag, it worked.
Across Lake Brienz from Interlaken, the Swiss Open-Air Museum of Vernacular Architecture, Country Life, and Crafts in the Berner Oberland is a rich collection of more than 100 traditional and historic buildings brought here from every region of the country. All the houses are carefully furnished, and many feature traditional craftspeople at work. The sprawling 50-acre park, laid out roughly as a huge Swiss map (Italian Swiss in the south, Appenzell in the east, and so on), is a natural preserve providing a wonderful setting for this culture-on-a-lazy-Susan look at Switzerland.
The Farmhouse from Uesslingen (#621) has an interesting wattle-and-daub (half-timbered construction) display, and house #331 has a fun farmers’ shop. There are daily events and demonstrations (near the east entry), hundreds of traditional farm animals (like very furry-legged roosters, near the merry-go-round in the center), and a chocolate shop (under the restaurant on the east side).
An outdoor cafeteria with reasonable prices is inside the west entrance, and fresh bread, sausage, mountain cheese, and other goodies are on sale in several houses. Picnic tables and grills with free firewood are scattered throughout the park.
The little wooden village of Brienzwiler (near the east entrance) is a museum in itself, with a lovely pint-size church.
Cost and Hours: 22 SF, covered by Swiss Pass; RailAway combo-ticket gets 10 percent off your train/bus fare to and from Ballenberg plus 10 percent off admission, ticket available at both Interlaken stations or online; houses open daily mid-April-Oct 10:00-17:00, grounds and restaurants stay open until 18:00.
Information: Pick up a daily craft demonstration schedule at the entry, and buy the 2-SF map/guide so you’ll know where you are. The more expensive picture book is a better souvenir than guide; tel. 033-952-1030, ballenberg.ch.
Getting There: From Interlaken, take the train from either station to Brienz (2/hour, 30 minutes). From the Brienz train station, catch a bus to Ballenberg (10 minutes). The bus back to Brienz leaves Ballenberg’s east entrance once an hour, then picks up at the west entrance (after 18:00, buses leave only from the west entrance). Consider returning from Brienz by boat (boat dock next to train station, one-way to Interlaken’s Ost Station-28 SF). Parking is free outside both entrances to the park.
“Interlaken” is literally “between the lakes” of Thun and Brienz. You can explore these lakes on a lazy boat trip, hopping on and off as the schedule allows (free with Swiss Pass or Eurail pass but uses a flexi-day, schedules at TI or at travel center in West Station). The boats on Lake Thun (5/day in summer, 2/day spring and fall, 5-hour round-trip, 68 SF) stop at the St. Beatus caves (30 minutes away, described next) and two visit-worthy towns: Spiez and Thun. The boats on Lake Brienz (5/day July-Aug, 2-4/day off-season, 3-hour round-trip, 48 SF) stop at the super-cute village of Iseltwald and at Brienz (near Ballenberg Open-Air Folk Museum; easy bus and train connections back to Interlaken from Brienz).
The St. Beatus caves on Lake Thun can be visited with a 1.25-hour guided tour (18 SF, 2/hour, April-late Oct daily 9:30-17:00, closed late Oct-March, tel. 033-841-1643, beatushoehlen.ch). The best excursion plan: Ride bus #21 from Interlaken (1-2/hour, 25 minutes, 5 SF, departs West Station at :17 and :47 past the hour, direction: Thun); tour the caves; take the short, steep hike down to the lake; and return to Interlaken by boat (30 minutes, 13 SF one-way).
For the thrill-seeker with money, several companies offer trips such as rafting, canyoning (rappelling down watery gorges), bungee jumping, and paragliding. Costs range from roughly 150 SF to 200 SF—higher for skydiving and hot-air balloon rides. Interlaken’s two dominant companies are Alpin Raft (tel. 033-823-4100, alpinraft.com) and Outdoor Interlaken (tel. 033-826-7719, outdoor-interlaken.ch). Other companies are generally just booking agents for these two outfits. For an overview of your options, study the racks of brochures at most TIs and hotels (everyone’s getting a cut of this lucrative industry). Remember: Enjoying nature up close comes with risks. Adventure sports increase those risks dramatically. Use good judgment.
K44 is a breathtaking indoor climbing facility where you can snack or enjoy a nice cup of hot chocolate while watching hotshots practice their gravity-defying skills.
Cost and Hours: Free entry for viewing, 21 SF to climb as long as you like, including equipment but not instruction, family deals; open longer hours in bad weather: Mon 16:00-22:00, Tue-Fri 9:00-22:00, Sat 9:00-20:00, Sun 9:00-18:00; in good weather: Tue-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-16:00, closed Sun-Mon; next to—and run by—Vertical Sport, at the back of the park across from Hotel Savoy at Jungfraustrasse 44, tel. 033-821-2821, k44.ch.
Outdoor Interlaken’s Seilpark offers eight rope courses of varying difficulty and height in a forest, giving you a tree-top adventure through a maze of rope bridges and zip lines.
Cost and Hours: 37 SF, family deals, must weigh between 44 and 264 pounds; June-Aug daily 10:00-18:00; April-May and Sept-Oct Mon-Fri 13:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Nov-March; from Interlaken’s West Station, it’s a 15-minute walk—head right up Rugenparkstrasse and into the park, then look for signs; tel. 033-826-7719, outdoor-interlaken.ch.
Flying Wheels offers bike tours of varying length and difficulty around the area. Cost and Hours: Interlaken-only tour—79 SF, 3 hours; Lauterbrunnen Valley up to Stechelberg—149 SF, 6 hours, includes picnic and Trümmelbach Falls visit; around Lake Brienz—129 SF, 6 hours, includes picnic; for contact info, see here.
A few impressively well-kept and welcoming old castles in the Interlaken area are worth considering for day trips by boat, bus, or car.
Built between 1180 and 1190 by the Dukes of Zähringen, the castle houses a five-floor historical museum offering insights into the cultural development of the region over a period of some 4,000 years. From the corner turrets of the castle, you are rewarded with a spectacular view of the city of Thun, the lake, and the Alps.
Cost and Hours: 8 SF, April-Oct daily 10:00-17:00, Nov-Jan Sun only 13:00-16:00, Feb-March daily 13:00-16:00, tel. 033-223-2001, schlossthun.ch.
Located in Hilterfingen (farther along Lake Thun, toward Interlaken), this castle contains a museum exhibiting furnished rooms from the second half of the 19th century. The castle is situated in a beautiful wooded park.
Cost and Hours: 9 SF, mid-May-mid-Oct Mon-Sat 14:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-17:00, closed off-season, tel. 033-243-1982, schlosshuenegg.ch.
Also on Lake Thun, this place is ideal for those interested in gardens. Its beautifully landscaped park with exotic trees is a delight. The museum in the castle depicts domestic life in the 16th-19th centuries, including a Turkish smoking room and a medieval chapel.
Cost and Hours: Gardens-free, April-Oct daily 9:00-dusk; museum-10 SF, mid-May-mid-Oct Mon 14:00-17:00, Tue-Sun 11:00-17:00; both closed off-season, 40 minutes from Interlaken on bus #21, tel. 033-243-1235, schlossoberhofen.ch.
For counterculture with a reggae beat, check out Funny Farm (past the recommended Balmer’s Herberge hostel, in Matten). The young frat-party dance scene rages at the Metro Bar at Balmer’s (bomb-shelter disco bar, with cheap drinks and a friendly if loud atmosphere). And if you’re into Hooters, you won’t have a hard time finding it.
To nurse a drink with a view of the park, the outdoor tables at Restaurant Schuh are convenient if you don’t mind the schlocky music. The “Top O’Met” bar and café has great indoor and outdoor view seating with reasonable prices, 18 floors above everything else in town (in the Metropole Hotel skyscraper, open nightly until late, see “Eating in Interlaken,” later). Hotel Oberland (near the post office) has live alpine music in its restaurant (Tue at 19:00 or 20:00).
I’d sleep in Gimmelwald, or at least Lauterbrunnen (20 minutes by train or car). In ski season, however, prices go down in Interlaken, while they shoot up at most hotels in the mountains. Interlaken is not the Alps. But if you must stay here, you do have options—prices listed here are for summer.
$$$ Hotel Lötschberg, with a sun terrace, 24 rooms, and four apartments for longer stays, is run with lots of thoughtful touches by English-speaking Susi. Three of the cheaper rooms are in the building next door (Sb-125-150 SF, Db-165-185 SF, big Db-220 SF, extra bed-35 SF, reserve directly with hotel and mention this book for Rick Steves discount, closed Nov-mid-April, elevator in main building, free Wi-Fi, free laundry machines, free loaner bikes; lounge with microwave, fridge, and free tea and coffee; 3-minute walk from West Station: leaving station, turn right, after Migros at the circle go left to General-Guisan-Strasse 31; tel. 033-822-2545, lotschberg.ch, hotel@lotschberg.ch).
$$ Sunny Days B&B is a homey, nine-room place in a quiet residential neighborhood (Sb-108-140 SF, Db-120-168 SF, prices vary with size of room and view, 1-night stay-20 SF extra, ask about discount for 3 or more nights, extra bed-45 SF, free Wi-Fi, laundry-18 SF/load, patio; from West Station: exit left out of station and take first bridge to your left, after crossing two bridges turn left on Helvetiastrasse and go 3 blocks to #29; tel. 033-822-8343, mobile 079-672-3037, sunnydays.ch, mail@sunnydays.ch, Tanja).
$$ Hotel Aarburg offers nine plain, peaceful rooms over a restaurant in a nondescript but beautifully located building in Unterseen, a 10-minute walk from West Station (Sb-70 SF, Db-140-150 SF, free Wi-Fi, 2 doors from launderette at Beatenbergstrasse 1, tel. 033-822-2615, hotel-aarburg.ch, hotel-aarburg@quicknet.ch).
$$ Katy’s Lodge B&B is a funky old house in a quiet, handy location. It’s not cozy, but Katy (who moved to Switzerland from Yugoslavia many years ago) rents seven basic rooms with shared bath at a good price. All the beds are twins—no double beds here (D-108 SF, T-126-135 SF, Q-160-180 SF, check online for best prices, free Wi-Fi in common areas, reception open 7:00-12:00 & 14:00-20:00, garden, playground, 3-minute walk from West Station, around the corner from Hotel Lötschberg at Bernastrasse 7, mobile 078-604-6507, katys-lodge.ch, katyslodge@hotmail.com).
$$ Backpackers’ Villa (Sonnenhof) Interlaken is a creative 190-bed guesthouse run by a Methodist church group. It’s fun, youthful, and great for families, without the frat-party scene of Balmer’s (listed later). Travelers of any age feel comfortable here (dorm bed in 2- to 7-bed room with free locker, sheets, and towel-37-47 SF, S-69 SF, view S-74 SF, Sb-79 SF, D-98-106 SF, view D-110-114 SF, Db-138 SF, T-135-141 SF, view T-153-159 SF, Tb-165-171 SF, Q-164-172 SF, view Q-180-188 SF, Qb-196-204 SF, view rooms have balconies and WCs, lowest prices in winter, set dinner at nearby restaurants-19 SF, kitchen, elevator, garden, movies, small game room, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi, laundry-6 SF/load, free admission to public swimming pool/spa, no curfew, no membership required, open all day, reception open 7:00-23:00, free use of public buses—bus #102 runs from hostel to either of Interlaken’s stations, 10-15-minute walk from stations, across the park from the TI at Alpenstrasse 16, tel. 033-826-7171, villa.ch, mail@villa.ch).
$ Balmer’s Herberge is many people’s idea of backpacker heaven. This 200-bed Interlaken institution comes with movies, table tennis, a launderette, bar, restaurant, tiny grocery, kitchen, bike rental, swapping library, excursions, bus pass, and friendly, hardworking staff. This hive of youthful fun and activities is home for those who miss their fraternity. It can be a mob scene, especially on summer weekends (bunk in 6- to 12-bed dorm-29 SF, S-45 SF, D-78 SF, T-105 SF, Q-140 SF, these are walk-in prices—booking online costs 1-2 SF more, includes sheets and breakfast, open year-round, reservations recommended at least 5 days in advance for private rooms, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, laundry-10 SF/load, Hauptstrasse 23, in Matten, 15-minute walk from either train station, tel. 033-822-1961, balmers.com, mail@balmers.ch). They also have more expensive rooms—with semi-private kitchens and fewer beds per bathroom—in an adjacent building (D-130 SF, T-165 SF, Q-220 SF).
$ Interlaken Hostel is very convenient—right next to the Ost train station in a big, sterile modern building with 220 beds, including some private rooms. It’s full of daylight and offers plenty of amenities (bed in 6-bed dorm with hall bath-36 SF, bed in 4-bed dorm with hall bath-40 SF, bed in 4-bed dorm with private bath-48 SF, Sb-114 SF, Db-127 SF, Tb-158 SF, Qb-191 SF, includes sheets and breakfast, nonmembers pay 6 SF extra, all rooms have sinks, 4-course dinner with free tap water-17.50 SF, bike rental-22 SF/day, laundry service-10 SF/load, game room, lockers, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi in common areas, no curfew, check-in 15:00-24:00, Untere Bönigstrasse 3, tel. 033-826-1090, youthhostel.ch/interlaken, interlaken@youthhostel.ch).
$ Happy Inn Lodge, above the lively, noisy Brasserie 17 restaurant, has 16 cheap backpacker rooms, plus two doubles with private baths; come here as a last resort only if you belong to the young-and-scrappy set (bed with bedding in 4- to 8-bed dorm-30-32 SF, S-40-68 SF, D-68-96 SF, Db-100-120 SF, 8 SF/person less if you don’t want breakfast, no membership required, no curfew, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi, free town bus pass, kitchen, 5-minute walk from West Station at Rosenstrasse 17, tel. 033-822-3225, happyinn.com, info@happyinn.com).
Stiff competition keeps prices reasonable here. You can get a good square meal for 20 SF, not including drinks.
Restaurant Bären is across the river in Unterseen, in a classic low-ceilinged building with cozy indoor and fine outdoor seating. It’s a great value for Rösti, fondue, raclette, fish, traditional sausage, and salads (24-30-SF main courses including fondue for one, Cordon Bleu is popular; open Tue-Thu 16:30-23:30, Fri-Sun 10:30-23:30 or later, closed Mon; from West Station, turn left on Bahnhofstrasse, cross the river, and go several blocks to Seestrasse 2; tel. 033-822-7526).
Goldener Anker, with its “melody rock and blues” ambience, is this town’s local hangout. If you think Interlaken is sterile, you haven’t been to the “Golden Anchor.” Jeannette serves and René cooks, just as they have for 25 years. This place sometimes hosts small concerts and has actually launched some of Switzerland’s top bands. The flexible menu is designed to make a good hot meal affordable to travelers (3-course meals for 15-25 SF, also has more expensive main courses, takeout available, daily from 16:00, Marktgasse 57, tel. 033-822-1672, anker.ch).
Città Vecchia serves decent Italian with seating indoors or out, on Unterseen’s leafy main square (16-24-SF pizzas, 20-28-SF pastas, 37-45-SF meat and fish courses, daily 10:30-14:00 & 18:00-23:00, closed during the day Tue-Wed Oct-May, Untere Gasse 5, tel. 033-822-1754, Rinaldo).
Metropole Hotel’s “Top O’Met,” capping Interlaken’s 18-story aesthetic nightmare, is actually a good café/restaurant serving traditional and modern food at down-to-earth prices, with no gouging on drinks. For just 6 SF, you can enjoy a glass of wine and awesome views from an indoor or outdoor table (25-SF daily lunch deals include two courses plus water and coffee, 42-SF fondue for two, 25-35-SF main courses, daily 8:00-23:00, hot food served 11:30-14:00 and 18:00-22:00, Höheweg 37, just step into the Metropole Hotel and go up the elevator as far as you can, tel. 033-828-6666).
(See “Interlaken” map, here.)
Interlaken’s two big supermarkets sell picnic supplies and also have reasonable self-service restaurants. Migros is across the street from West Station (Mon-Thu 8:00-19:00, Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat 7:30-17:00, closed Sun), with a ground-floor cafeteria serving until 15 minutes before closing (13-19-SF main courses, cafeteria also open mid-July-mid-Aug on Sun 10:00-17:00, Rugenparkstrasse 1). The Co-op supermarket is across the square from Ost Station, on your right (Mon-Thu 8:00-19:00, Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat 8:00-17:00) and also has a good cafeteria (13-18-SF main courses, cafeteria closes Mon-Thu at 18:30, Fri at 20:00, Sat at 17:00, also open Sun 9:00-17:00, hot food served until 30 minutes before closing, free Wi-Fi, Untere Bönigstrasse 10). Smaller supermarkets in both train stations are open daily until 21:00; the only grocery store open late at night is the teeny Co-op Pronto (daily 6:00-22:30, 30 yards west of TI at Höheweg 26).
Asian Food: Interlaken has many restaurants catering to its south and east Asian tourists. One of the cheapest (though not the most elegant) is Chinese-run Top Delice, by West Station (most main courses-15 SF including rice, take out or eat in, daily 11:00-23:00, Rugenparkstrasse 4, tel. 033-821-6188).
Note that Interlaken is connected to Luzern and Montreux (on Lake Geneva) via the Golden Pass scenic rail route. Interlaken, Bern, Basel, and Frankfurt are linked by an express train, but for most other destinations you’ll change in Bern. Train info: Toll tel. 0900-300-300 or rail.ch.
From Interlaken Ost by Train to: Bern (2/hour, 55 minutes, some with change in Spiez), Spiez (3/hour, 25 minutes), Brienz (2/hour, 20 minutes), Zürich (2/hour, 2 hours, change in Bern or Spiez), Zürich Airport (3/hour, 2.25 hours, most with transfer in Bern or Spiez), Luzern (hourly, 2 hours, evening trains change in Meiringen or Bern), Lugano (hourly, 4.75 hours, 1-2 changes), Zermatt (1-2/hour, 2.25 hours, transfer in Spiez and Visp).
From Interlaken to the Lauterbrunnen Valley: To reach the heart of the valley, drive or take the train to Lauterbrunnen (1-2/hour from Interlaken Ost Station, 20 minutes). You cannot drive to Gimmelwald (park at the cable-car station near Stechelberg and ride up on the lift; see here) or to Mürren or Kleine Scheidegg (park in Lauterbrunnen and take the cable car to Mürren or the train to Kleine Scheidegg). For more details, see “Lauterbrunnen Valley Connections” on here.
Lauterbrunnen is the valley’s commercial center and transportation hub. Sitting under sheer cliffs at the base of the valley, with its signature waterfall spurting mightily out from the cliff (floodlit at night), Lauterbrunnen (rated ▲) is a fine springboard for Jungfrau and Schilthorn adventures. But for spending the night, I still prefer Gimmelwald or Mürren, perched on the ledge above the valley.
In addition to its train station and cable car, the one-street town is just big enough to have all the essential services (bank, post office, bike rental, launderette, and so on)—plus several hotels and hostels. It’s idyllic, in spite of the busy road that slices it in two.
Tourist Information: Stop by the friendly TI to check the weather forecast, find out about guided walks and events, and buy hiking maps or any regional train or lift tickets you need (June-Sept daily 8:30-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, Oct-May Mon-Fri 9:00-12:00 & 13:30-17:00, closed Sat-Sun, located on the main street a block up from the train station, tel. 033-856-8568, mylauterbrunnen.com).
Arrival in Lauterbrunnen: The small, modern train station has a ticket office (daily 6:00-19:30), lockers (small size only, 3 SF; larger bags can be checked at the ticket office for the same price), and free WCs, and is across the main street from the cable-car station. Go left as you exit the station to find the TI. Drivers can find parking in the large multistory pay lot behind the station (2.50 SF/2 hours, 10.50 SF/9-24 hours).
Medical Help: Dr. Bruno Durrer, who has a clinic (with pharmacy) near the Jungfrau Hotel (look for Arzt sign), is good and very busy. He splits his time between seeing patients at his main office here, spending a couple of days a week up in Mürren, and buzzing around the region in helicopters to rescue injured adventure-seekers. He and his associate both speak English (tel. 033-856-2626, answered 24/7).
Money: Several ATMs are along the main street, including one immediately across from the train station.
Internet Access: The Airtime Café has free Wi-Fi for customers and will let you use a laptop for 12 SF/hour (daily 9:00-19:00, closed Nov).
Laundry: The Valley Hostel has coin-op machines (5 SF/load, includes soap, daily 9:00-21:00, don’t open dryer door until machine is finished or you’ll have to pay another 5 SF to start it again, free Wi-Fi, tel. 033-855-2008). Airtime Café offers full-service laundry (25 SF/load, daily 9:00-19:00, closed Nov).
Bike Rental: You can rent mountain bikes at Imboden Bike on the main street (30 SF/half-day, 40 SF/day, helmets included, late June-mid-Sept daily 8:30-18:30, mid-Sept-late June Mon-Fri 8:30-12:00 & 13:30-18:30, Sat-Sun 9:00-17:00, tel. 033-855-2114, imboden-bike.ch).
Sports Gear: You can rent hiking boots, skis, and snowboards at the Alpia Sports shop (in winter daily 8:30-12:30 & 13:30-18:00, shorter hours in summer, closed in May, at Hotel Crystal, tel. 033-855-3292, alpiasport.ch).
If you’re staying in Lauterbrunnen, consider this ambitious but great day plan: Ride the cable car to Grütschalp, walk along the ridge to Mürren, take the cable car up to the Schilthorn and back down to Mürren, ride the funicular up to Allmendhubel, hike the North Face Trail to Gimmelwald, take the lift down to the Schilthornbahn station near Stechelberg, catch the PostBus to Trümmelbach Falls, and walk through the valley back into Lauterbrunnen. Make it more or less strenuous or time-consuming by swapping lifts and hikes (all described later in this chapter). Or rent a mountain bike and do a wheeled variation on this (parking your bike in Mürren for the Schilthorn trip).
If all the waterfalls have you intrigued, sneak a behind-the-scenes look at the valley’s most powerful, Trümmelbach Falls. You’ll ride an elevator up through the mountain and climb through several caves (wet, with lots of stairs, and—for some—claustrophobic) to see the melt from the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau grinding like God’s bandsaw through the mountain at the rate of up to 5,200 gallons a second (that’s 20,000 liters—nearly double the beer consumption at Oktoberfest). The upper area is the best; if your legs ache, skip the lower falls and ride down on the elevator.
Cost and Hours: 11 SF, daily July-Aug 8:30-18:00, April-June and Sept-Oct 9:00-17:00, closed Nov-March, tel. 033-855-3232, truemmelbachfaelle.ch.
Getting There: It’s about halfway between Lauterbrunnen and the Schilthornbahn cable-car station; from either, it’s a short ride on the PostBus (3.40 SF) or a 45-minute walk.
Try the easy trails and pleasant walks along the floor of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. For a smell-the-cows-and-flowers lowland walk—ideal for a cloudy day, weary body, or tight budget—take the PostBus from Lauterbrunnen town to the Schilthornbahn cable-car station near Stechelberg (left of river), and follow the riverside trail back for three basically level miles to Staubbach Falls, near the town church (you can reverse the route, but it’s a very gradual uphill to Stechelberg). A trail was cut into the cliff to take visitors up “behind” Staubbach Falls (at the uphill end of Lauterbrunnen town). But, depending on the wind, the trail may be closed short of the actual falls.
You don’t ever need to walk along the road. A fine, paved, car-free riverside path goes all the way along the valley (popular with bikers). Detour to Trümmelbach Falls (described earlier) en route (it’s a 45-minute walk from the Schilthornbahn station to Trümmelbach Falls, and another 45 minutes to Lauterbrunnen). In this “Valley of Many Waterfalls” (literally), you’ll see cone-like mounds piled against the sides of the cliffs, formed by centuries of rocks hurled by tumbling rivers. Look up to see BASE jumpers between Trümmelbach Falls and Lauterbrunnen.
If you’re staying in Gimmelwald, try this plan: Take the Schilthornbahn lift down to the station near Stechelberg (5 minutes), then walk 1.5 hours along the river to Lauterbrunnen (side-tripping to Trümmelbach Falls after 45 minutes). To return to Gimmelwald from Lauterbrunnen, take the cable car up to Grütschalp (10 minutes), then either walk to Gimmelwald (1.5 hours) or take the train to Mürren (10 minutes). From Mürren, it’s a downhill walk (30 minutes) to Gimmelwald. (This loop trip can be reversed or started at any point along the way—such as Lauterbrunnen or Mürren.)
In recent years, the Lauterbrunnen Valley has become an El Dorado of BASE jumping (parachuting off cliffs), and each season thrill-seekers hike to the top of a cliff, leap off—falling as long as they can (this provides the rush)—and then pull the ripcord to release a tiny parachute, hoping it will break their fall and a gust won’t dash them against the walls of the valley. (For a fascinating look at this sport, search for “BASE jumping Lauterbrunnen” at youtube.com.)
Some Swiss consider BASE jumpers reckless and don’t respect them. But, like other adventure sports, it is getting safer and more accepted. To learn more, talk with the jumpers themselves, who congregate at the Pub Horner, at the upper end of town (near the waterfall). This is the grittiest place in Lauterbrunnen, providing cheap beds and meals for BASE jumpers and the only real after-dark scene in town. Locals, jumpers, and stray tourists gather here in the pub each evening (9 rooms, 35-45 SF/bed in shared room, cheaper apartments, no breakfast, free Wi-Fi in common areas, free guest computer for customers, dancing Wed-Sun from 22:00 upstairs, tel. 033-855-1673, hornerpub.ch, mail@hornerpub.ch, run by Ferdinand Gertsch). Their kitchen sells cheap pastas and raclette, and puts out a nightly salad bar (15-SF dinners in summer, closed Mon-Tue).
This interesting museum shows off the region’s folk culture and two centuries of mountaineering from all the towns of this valley. You’ll see lots of lace, exhibits on cheese and woodworking, cowbells, and classic old photos.
Cost and Hours: 5 SF, free with Visitors Card given by local hotels, mid-June-mid-Oct Tue and Thu-Sun 14:00-17:30, off-season by appointment; always closed Mon and Wed; English handout, just over bridge and below church at the far end of Lauterbrunnen town, tel. 033-855-3586, talmuseumlauterbrunnen.ch.
(2,612 feet, 1 SF = about $1.10, country code: 41)
The prices listed are typical for high summer (July-Aug). Expect lower prices in winter (many hotels close). Free parking is generally easy to find. All the places listed are set back at least slightly from the main street and its traffic, but for more peace, choose Gimmelwald or Mürren.
$$$ Hotel Silberhorn is a family-run but formal 32-room, three-star hotel, in a very convenient location—a hundred yards uphill from the train station on an untrafficked side street. Almost every double room comes with a fine view and balcony (Sb-99-119 SF, Db-179-189 SF, bigger “superior” Db-209-219 SF, price depends on demand and room quality, lots of stairs, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, dinner-30 SF, tel. 033-856-2210, silberhorn.com, info@silberhorn.com).
$$ Hotel Staubbach, a big, Old World place, is one of the oldest hotels in the valley (1890). The hotel has the casual feel of a national park lodge, with 33 simple and comfortable rooms. It’s family-friendly and has a kids’ play area. Rooms that face up the valley have incredible views, though you may hear the happy crowd across the meadow at Pub Horner or the church bells chiming on the hour. If the weather’s bad, you can watch a DVD of my Switzerland TV show in the lounge (S-105 SF, Sb-135-155 SF, D-125 SF, Db-155-175 SF, Tb-215-245 SF, Qb-265-280 SF, price depends on view, closed mid-Nov-March, elevator, free Wi-Fi, 4 blocks up from station on the left, tel. 033-855-5454, staubbach.com, hotel@staubbach.com).
$ Valley Hostel is practical and comfortable, offering 92 inexpensive beds for quieter travelers of all ages, with a pleasant garden. This is a manageable budget option for families (bed in 5-8-bed room-28 SF/person, bunk D-66 SF, double-bedded D-76 SF, breakfast-6 SF, rooms have no sinks, kitchen, free Wi-Fi, coin-op laundry, reception open 8:00-12:00 & 16:00-21:00, closed for 2 weeks in Nov, 2 blocks up from train station, tel. 033-855-2008, valleyhostel.ch, info@valleyhostel.ch, Abegglen family: Martha, Alfred, Stefan, and Fränzi).
$ Chalet im Rohr—a creaky, old, woody firetrap of a place—has oodles of character (and lots of paragliders and BASE jumpers). It offers 56 beds in big one- to four-bed rooms that share six showers (30 SF/person, no breakfast, cash only, common kitchen, free Wi-Fi, across from church on main drag, tel. 033-855-2182, chaletimrohr.ch, info@chaletimrohr.ch, Hans and Elsbeth von Allmen-Müller).
$ Camping: Two campgrounds just south of town provide beds in dorms and 2- and 4-bed bungalows (rentable sheets, kitchen facilities, cash only, big English-speaking tour groups). Mountain Holiday Park-Camping Jungfrau, romantically situated beyond Staubbach Falls, is huge and well-organized by Hans. It also has fancy cabins and mobile homes you can rent by the week (30-35-SF beds, tel. 033-856-2010, camping-jungfrau.ch). Schützenbach Retreat, on the left just past Lauterbrunnen toward Stechelberg, is a simpler campground and hostel (bed in 16-bed dorm-17 SF, often full with groups, tel. 033-855-1268).
At Hotel Restaurant Oberland, Mark (Aussie) and Ursula (Swiss) Nolan take pride in serving tasty, good-value meals from a fun menu. It’s a high-energy place with lots of tourists and a huge front porch good for lingering into the evening (16-23-SF pizzas, 20-SF raclette, 20-25-SF main courses, traditional Swiss dishes, daily 11:30-21:00, tel. 033-855-1241).
Hotel Restaurant Jungfrau, along the main street, offers a wide range of main courses including fondue (20-25 SF) and Rösti (21 SF). Their terrace has a great valley view (23-33-SF meat courses, daily 12:00-14:00 & 18:00-21:00, tel. 033-855-3434, run by Brigitte Melliger).
Hotel Restaurant Silberhorn is the local choice for a fancy dinner out. Call to reserve a view table (19-SF salad plate, 18-35-SF main dishes, daily from 18:00, classy indoor and outdoor seating, above the cable-car station, tel. 033-856-2210).
Airtime Café feels like an alpine Starbucks with hot drinks, homemade treats, breakfast, simple lunches, and light early dinners (9.50-SF sandwiches, 6-SF meat pies). Besides food, they offer other services, including laundry, guest computer, Wi-Fi, and an English-language swap library. They can also help you book adventure-sport activities (daily 9:00-19:00, closed Nov, tel. 033-855-1515, airtime.ch, Daniela and Beni).
Supermarket: The small but well-stocked Co-op is on the main street across from the station (Mon-Sat 8:00-19:00, also late June-mid-Sept on Sun 15:30-18:30, off-season closed Sun).
The valley-floor towns of Lauterbrunnen and Stechelberg have connections by mountain train, bus, and cable car to the traffic-free villages, peaks, and hikes high above. Prices and trip durations given are per leg unless otherwise noted.
From Lauterbrunnen by Train to: Interlaken Ost (1-2/hour, 20 minutes, 7.40 SF), Wengen (2/hour, 15 minutes, 6.60 SF), Kleine Scheidegg (1-2/hour, 30 minutes, 30 SF), Jungfraujoch (1-2/hour, 2 hours, 90 SF, change in Kleine Scheidegg); Männlichen (for hike to Kleine Scheidegg, take train to Wengen and change to cable car).
By Cable Car to: Grütschalp (2-4/hour, 6 minutes), where the train waits to take you to Mürren (another 14 minutes); total trip time 20 minutes, total one-way cost 10.80 SF.
By PostBus to: Schilthornbahn cable-car station (buses depart with the arrival of trains in Lauterbrunnen, 15-minute ride, 4.20 SF, covered by Swiss Pass), continues to the hamlet of Stechelberg.
By Car to: Schilthornbahn cable-car station (10-minute drive, parking lot: 3 SF/2 hours, 7 SF/day, cash only).
From Schilthornbahn cable-car station near Stechelberg to: Gimmelwald (2/hour, 5 minutes, 6 SF); Mürren (2/hour, 10 minutes, 10.80 SF, change in Gimmelwald); and the Schilthorn (2/hour, 20 minutes, 57.40 SF, change in Gimmelwald, Mürren, and Birg). Cable cars run up from the valley station—and down from Mürren—at :25 and :55 past the hour (5:55-19:55; then only once an hour until 23:45 Sun-Thu, until 24:55 Fri-Sat). From Gimmelwald to both Mürren and the valley station, the cable car runs at :00 and :30 (6:00-20:00; after 20:00 runs only once an hour).
Saved from developers by its “avalanche zone” classification, Gimmelwald was (before modern tourism) one of the poorest places in Switzerland. Its traditional economy was stuck in the hay, and its farmers—unable to make it in their disadvantaged trade—survived only on a trickle of visitors and on Swiss government subsidies (and working the ski lifts in the winter). For some travelers, there’s little to see in a village. Others (like me) enjoy a fascinating day sitting on a bench and learning why they say, “If heaven isn’t what it’s cracked up to be, send me back to Gimmelwald.”
Take a walk through the town. The huge, sheer cliff face that dominates your mountain views is the Schwarzmönch (“Black Monk”). The three peaks above (or behind) it are, left to right, the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. Although Gimmelwald’s population dropped in the last century from 300 to about 120 residents, traditions survive. Most Gimmelwalders have one of two last names: von Allmen or Feuz. They are tough and proud. Raising hay in this rugged terrain is labor-intensive. One family harvests enough to feed only about 15 cows. But they’d have it no other way, and, unlike the absentee-landlord town of Mürren, Gimmelwald is locally owned. (When word got out that urban planners wanted to develop Gimmelwald into a town of 1,000, locals pulled some strings to secure the town’s bogus avalanche-zone building code. Today, unlike nearby resort towns, Gimmelwald’s population is the same all year.) Those same folks are happy the masses go to commercialized Grindelwald, just over the Kleine Scheidegg ridge. Don’t confuse Gimmelwald (rated ▲▲▲) and touristy Grindelwald—they couldn’t be more different.
Thanks to the leadership of schoolteachers Olle and Maria, and their son Sven, Gimmelwald has a helpful little website (gimmelwald.ch), where you can check out photos of the town in different seasons, get directions for 11 of the best hikes out of town, and see all the latest on activities and rooms for rent.
To get from Lauterbrunnen to Gimmelwald, you have two options:
1. Schilthornbahn Cable Car: The faster, easier way—best in bad weather or at the end of a long day with lots of luggage—is by road and then by cable car. For drivers, it’s 10 minutes from Lauterbrunnen (or 30 minutes from Interlaken) to the Schilthornbahn cable-car station near Stechelberg (parking lot: 3 SF/2 hours, 7 SF/day, cash only).
If you don’t have a car, ride the PostBus from Lauterbrunnen to the Schilthornbahn cable-car station (buses depart with the arrival of trains in Lauterbrunnen, 15-minute ride, 4.20 SF, free with Swiss Pass, postauto.ch).
From the Schilthornbahn valley station, the cable car whisks you in five thrilling minutes up to Gimmelwald (2/hour at :25 and :55 past the hour 5:55-19:55; after 19:55, runs only once an hour until 23:45 Sun-Thu, until 24:55 Fri-Sat; 6 SF, Gimmelwald is the first stop). Note that the Schilthornbahn cable car is closed for servicing for a week in early May and also from mid-November through early December. If you’re here during this time, you’ll ride the cargo cable car directly from the valley floor up to Mürren, where a small bus shuttles you down to Gimmelwald.
2. Grütschalp Cable Car and Mürren Train: This is the more scenic route. Catch the cable car from Lauterbrunnen to Grütschalp. As you glide from Lauterbrunnen upward, notice the bed of the 100-year-old funicular train track that the new cable car replaced a few years ago. At Grütschalp, a special vintage train will roll you along the incredibly scenic cliffside to Mürren (total trip from Lauterbrunnen to Mürren: 20 minutes, 10.80 SF, jungfraubahn.ch). From there, either walk to the middle of Mürren and take a left down a moderately steep paved path 30 minutes to Gimmelwald, or walk 10 minutes across Mürren to catch the cable car down to Gimmelwald (6 SF).
(See “Gimmelwald” map, here.)
Gimmelwald, though tiny, with one zigzag street, offers a fine look at a traditional Swiss mountain community.
• Start this quick walking tour at the...
Cable-Car Station: When the lift came in the 1960s, the village’s back end became its front door. Gimmelwald was, and still is, a farm village. Stepping off the cable car and starting up the path, you see a sweet little hut). Set on stilts to keep out mice, the hut was used for storing cheese (the rocks on the rooftop here and throughout the town are not decorative—they keep the shingles on through wild storms). Behind the cheese hut stands the village schoolhouse, long the largest structure in town (in Catholic Swiss towns, the biggest building is the church; in Protestant towns, it’s the school). But in 2010, classes ceased. Gimmelwald’s students now go to school in Lauterbrunnen, and the building is being used as a chapel when the Protestant pastor makes his monthly visit. Up and across from the station, just beyond the little playground, is the recommended Mountain Hostel and Restaurant.
• Walk up the lane 50 yards, past the town’s Dalí-esque art gallery (Who’s showing in the phone booth?), to Gimmelwald’s...
“Times Square”: The yellow alpine “street sign” shows where you are, the altitude (1,370 meters, or 4,470 feet), how many hours (Std.) and minutes it takes to walk to nearby points, and which tracks are serious hiking paths (marked with red and white, and further indicated along the way with red and white patches of paint on stones). You’re surrounded by buildings that were built as duplexes, divided vertically right down the middle to house two separate families. Look for the Honesty Shop at Pension Gimmelwald, which features local crafts and little edibles for sale.
The writing on the post office building is a folksy blessing: “Summer brings green, winter brings snow. The sun greets the day, the stars greet the night. This house will protect you from rain, cold, and wind. May God give us his blessings.” Small as Gimmelwald is, it still has daily mail service. The postman comes down from Mürren each day (by golf cart in summer, sled in winter) to deliver mail and pick up letters at the communal mailbox. The date on this building indicates when it was built or rebuilt (1911). Gimmelwald has a strict building code: For instance, shutters can only be painted certain colors.
• From this tiny intersection, walk away from the cable-car station and follow the town’s...
Main Street: Walk up the road past the gnome greeting committee on the right. Notice the announcement board: one side for tourist news, the other for local news (such as deals on chain-saw sharpening, upcoming shooting competitions). Cross the street and peek into the big barn, dated 1995. To the left of the door is a cow-scratcher. Swiss cows have legal rights (for example, in the winter they must be taken out for exercise at least three times a week). This big barn is built in a modern style. Traditionally, barns were small (like those on the hillside high above) and closer to the hay. But with trucks and paved roads, hay can be moved more easily, and farm businesses need more cows to be viable. Still, even a well-run big farm hopes just to break even. The industry survives only with government subsidies. As you wander, notice private garden patches. Until recently, most locals grew their own vegetables—often enough to provide most of their family’s needs.
• Go just beyond the next barn. On your right is the...
Water Fountain/Trough: This is the site of the town’s historic water supply—still perfectly drinkable. Village kids love to bathe and wage water wars here when the cows aren’t drinking from it. Detour left down a lane about 50 yards (along a wooden fence), passing the lovingly tended pea-patch gardens of the woman with the best green thumb in the village (on your left).
Now go to the next trough and the oldest building in town, Husmättli, from 1658. (Most of the town’s 17th-century buildings are on the road zigzagging below town.) Study the log-cabin construction. Many are built without nails. The wood was logged up the valley and cut on the water-powered village mill (also below town). Gimmelwald heats with wood, and since the wood needs to age a couple of years to burn well, it’s stacked everywhere.
From here (at the water trough), look up at the solar panels on the house of Olle and Maria. A Swiss building code requires that new structures provide 30 percent of their own power, part of a green energy policy. Switzerland is gradually moving away from nuclear power; its last reactor is supposed to close in 2034.
• Return to the main paved road and continue uphill.
Twenty yards along, on the left, the first house has a bunch of scythes hanging above the sharpening stone. Farmers pound, rather than grind, the blade to get it razor-sharp for efficient cutting. Feel a blade...carefully.
A few steps farther, notice the cute cheese hut on the right. This is Erika Bühler’s hut, and she loves to sell her alpine cheese to visitors (an arrow points to her house). Its front is an alpine art gallery with nail shoes for flower pots. Nail shoes grip the steep, wet fields—this is critical for safety, especially if you’re carrying a sharp scythe. Even today, farmers buy metal tacks and fasten them to boots. The hut is full of strong cheese—up to three years old.
Look up. In the summer, a few goats are kept here (rather than in the high alp) to provide families with fresh milk (about a half-gallon per day per goat). The farmers fence off the fields, letting the goats eat only the grass that’s most difficult to harvest.
On the left (at the B&B sign) is Olle and Maria’s home. Maria runs the Lilliput shop (the “smallest shop with the greatest gifts”—handmade delights from the town and region; just ring the bell and meet Maria). She does a booming trade in sugar-coated almonds.
• Fifty yards farther along is the...
Alpenrose: At the old schoolhouse, you might see big ceremonial cowbells hanging under the uphill eave. These swing from the necks of cows during the procession from the town to the high Alps (mid-June) and back down (mid-Sept).
• At the end of town, pause where a lane branches off to the left, leading into the dramatic...
Sefinen Valley: All the old homes in town are made from wood cut from the left-hand side of this valley (shady side, slow-growing, better timber) and milled at a water-powered sawmill on the valley floor.
• A few steps ahead, the road switches back at the...
Gimmelwald Fire Station: The Föhnwacht Reglement sheet, posted on the fire-station building, explains rules to keep the village from burning down during the fierce dry wind of the Föhn season. During this time, there’s a 24-hour fire watch, and even smoking cigarettes outdoors is forbidden. Mürren was devastated by a Föhn-caused fire in the 1920s. Because villagers in Gimmelwald—mindful of the quality of their volunteer fire department—are particularly careful with fire, the town has not had a terrible fire in its history (a rare feat among alpine villages).
Check out the other posted notices. This year’s Swiss Army calendar tells reservists when and where to go (in all four official Swiss languages). Every Swiss male does a 22-week stint in the military, then a few days a year in the reserves until age 34. The Schiessübungen poster details the shooting exercises required this year. In keeping with the legend of William Tell, each Swiss man does shooting practice annually for the military (or spends three days in jail).
• Take the...
High Road to Hotel Mittaghorn: The resort town of Mürren hovers in the distance. And high on the left, notice the hay field with terraces. These are from WWII days, when Switzerland, wanting self-sufficiency, required all farmers to grow potatoes. Today, this field is a festival of alpine flowers in season (best at this altitude in May and June).
• Our walk is over. A peaceful set of benches, just off the lane on the downhill side, lets you savor the view. From Hotel Mittaghorn, you can return to Gimmelwald’s “Times Square” via the path with the steps cutting downhill.
These two places provide after-dark entertainment in Gimmelwald. The Mountain Hostel and Restaurant, where Petra and her staff serve drinks nightly, is lively with locals and backpackers alike. It’s easy to make friends here and share travel experiences. There’s a pool table and lots of youthful impromptu fun. Pension Gimmelwald (which is next door on the uphill side) offers a mellower scene with an old-time bar, cozy lounge, and view terrace. And from almost anywhere in Gimmelwald, you can watch the sun tuck the mountaintops into bed as the moon rises over the Jungfrau. If that’s not enough nightlife, stay in Interlaken.
(4,593 feet, 1 SF = about $1.10, country code: 41)
Gimmelwald is my home base in the Berner Oberland. To inhale the Alps and really hold them in, you’ll want to sleep high in Gimmelwald, too. Poor and pleasantly stuck in the past, the village has only a few accommodations options—all of them quirky and memorable. Rates here are listed without breakfast (except for the hostel) and include entry to the public swimming pool in nearby Mürren (at the Sportzentrum—see here).
Be warned: You’ll meet a lot of my readers in this town. This is a disappointment to some; others enjoy the chance to be part of a fun extended family.
$$$ At Olle and Maria’s B&B, the Eggimanns rent three rooms—Gimmelwald’s most comfortable and expensive—in their quirky but alpine-sleek house. Having raised three kids of their own here, Maria and Olle offer visitors a rare and intimate peek at this community. The two bathless rooms are upstairs and used to belong to their kids, while the “double” with private bath is a ground-level studio apartment with a private entrance (smaller D-130 SF, larger D-160 SF or as T-180 SF, Db with kitchenette-190 SF for 2 or 220 SF for 3 people, optional breakfast-20 SF, 3-night minimum, cash only, nonrefundable 50 percent deposit via PayPal required to guarantee your reservation, free Wi-Fi, laundry service-15 SF/load; from cable car, continue straight for 200 yards along the town’s only road, B&B on left; tel. 033-855-3575, gimmelwald.ch/ollebnb.htm, oeggimann@bluewin.ch).
$$ Esther’s Guest House, overlooking the village’s main intersection, rents seven clean, basic, and comfortable rooms, three of which have private bathrooms and share a generous lounge and kitchen (S-60-80 SF, big D-140 SF, small viewless Db-140 SF, Db-170 SF, big T-160 SF, Tb-190-200 SF, Q-190 SF, Qb-210-220 SF, family room with private bath for up to 5 people-240 SF, breakfast-16 SF, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, low ceilings, tel. 033-855-5488, esthersguesthouse.ch, info@esthersguesthouse.ch). Esther, a bundle of entrepreneurial energy, also rents two five-person apartments with kitchenettes next door (3-night minimum, see website for details).
$$ Pension Gimmelwald is an old, low-ceilinged farmhouse converted into a family-style inn, with 12 simple shared-bath rooms, a restaurant, and a cozy bar. Aside from the rooms, they have a 6-bed dorm rented out by the bed for 33 SF (which attracts more mature guests than a youth hostel). Its terrace, overlooking the Mountain Hostel, has gorgeous views across the valley (S-65 SF, D-110 SF, T-165 SF, Q-200 SF, ask about discount for 3 nights with this book and direct reservation, breakfast-14 SF, free Wi-Fi, open June-mid-Oct and mid-Dec-early-April, 2-minute walk up from cable-car station, tel. 033-855-1730, pensiongimmelwald.com, pensiongimmelwald@gmail.com, Englishman David).
$ At Liesi’s Heart Place, friendly owner Liesi rents a little suite in her home with a fine view and terrace (Db-120 SF, Tb-150 SF, minimum 2-night stay, at the town’s water fountain find the little house about 100 feet to the left, tel. 033-855-1662, liesisheartplace.ch, dwaelle@tcnet.ch).
$ Hotel Mittaghorn is a classic, creaky, thin-walled, alpine-style place with superb views. It’s run by Walter Mittler, an elderly Swiss gentleman, with help from trusty Tim. The hotel has three rooms with private coin-op showers (first-come, first-served) and four rooms that share another coin-operated shower (S-60 SF, D-90-100 SF, T-140 SF, 2-night minimum, cash only, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, open April-Oct, a five-minute climb up the path from the village center, tel. 033-855-1658, mittaghorn.com, mittaghorn@gmail.com—email answered May-Oct only). It’s necessary to reconfirm by phone the day before your arrival. If no one’s there when you arrive, look for a card in the hallway directing you to your room.
$ Mountain Hostel is a beehive of activity, as clean as its guests, cheap, respectable, and friendly. The 50-bed hostel has low ceilings, a self-service kitchen, a mini-grocery, a bar, a free pool table, and healthy plumbing. It’s mostly a college-age crowd; families and older travelers will probably feel more comfortable elsewhere. Petra Brunner, who lines the porch with flowers, runs this relaxed hostel with the help of its guests. Read the signs, respect Petra’s rules, and leave it tidier than you found it. This is one of those rare spots where a congenial atmosphere spontaneously combusts as the piano plays, and spaghetti becomes communal as it cooks (33 SF/bed in 6- to 15-bed rooms, includes sheets and breakfast, showers-1 SF, laundry-5 SF, free Internet access and Wi-Fi, open mid-April-mid-Nov, 20 yards up the trail from lift station, reserve with credit card through website or by phone, tel. 033-855-1704, mountainhostel.com, info@mountainhostel.com). The hostel has a full-menu restaurant, described next.
Gimmelwald has two good eating options.
Mountain Hostel Restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and comes with fun, mountain-high energy and a youthful spirit (simple 17-22-SF main courses, popular 16-19-SF pizzas, daily 12:00-21:00). You can eat inside or with breathtaking views on the terrace.
Pension Gimmelwald Restaurant has a good, simple menu featuring local produce served in a rustic indoor dining room or on a jaw-dropping-view terrace. The atmosphere here is a little more jazz-and-blues mellow (18-25-SF main dishes, daily 10-SF “backpacker special” dish, daily in summer 12:00-16:00 & 18:00-21:00, bar open until 23:00).
Picnic: Consider packing in a picnic meal from the larger towns. Mürren, a five-minute cable-car ride or a 30-minute hike up the hill, has a grocery store and good restaurants (see “Eating in Mürren,” later). If you need a few groceries and want to skip the hike to Mürren, you can buy the essentials—noodles, spaghetti sauce, and candy bars—at the Mountain Hostel’s reception desk or the little Honesty Shop at Pension Gimmelwald. Farmers post signs to sell their produce. Farmer Erika sells meat, cheese, and eggs—and sometimes bread and milk—from her picturesque hut on the town’s main lane (see “Self-Guided Walk in Gimmelwald,” earlier).
Pleasant as an alpine resort can be, Mürren is traffic-free and filled with cafés, souvenirs, old-timers with walking sticks, employees enjoying incentive trips, and snap-happy tourists. Its chalets are prefab-rustic. With help from a cliffside train, a funicular, and a cable car, hiking options are endless from Mürren (rated ▲▲). Sitting on a ledge 2,000 feet above the Lauterbrunnen Valley, surrounded by a fortissimo chorus of mountains, the town has all the comforts of home (for a price) without the pretentiousness of more famous resorts.
Historic Mürren, which dates from 1384, has been overwhelmed by development. Still, it’s a peaceful town. There’s no full-time doctor, no police officer (they call Lauterbrunnen if there’s a problem), and no resident priest or pastor. (The Protestant church—up by the TI—posts a sign showing where the region’s roving pastor preaches each Sunday.) There’s not even enough business to keep a bakery open year-round (bread is baked down in Lauterbrunnen and shipped up to the “bakery,” which is open in-season only)—a clear indication that this town is either lively or completely dead, depending on the time of year. (Holiday population: 4,000. Permanent residents: 400.) Keep an eye open for the “Milch Express,” a tiny cart that delivers fresh milk and eggs to hotels and homes throughout town.
There are two ways to get to Mürren: on the train from Grütschalp (14 minutes, connects by six-minute cable car to Lauterbrunnen, 20-minute total trip) or on the Schilthornbahn cable car from near Stechelberg (in the valley), which stops at Gimmelwald, Mürren, and continues up to the Schilthorn. The train and cable-car stations (which have both lockers and free WCs) are at opposite ends of town.
Mürren perches high on a ledge, overlooking the Lauterbrunnen Valley. You can walk from one end of town to the other in about 10 minutes.
Tourist Information: Mürren’s TI, in the town sports complex, can help you find a room and gives hiking advice (June-Oct and Dec-April daily 8:30-18:30; May and Nov Mon-Fri 8:00-12:00 & 13:00-17:00, closed Sat-Sun; above the village, follow signs to Sportzentrum, tel. 033-856-8686, mymuerren.ch).
Money: An ATM is by the Co-op grocery in the middle of town.
Internet Access: The TI has free Wi-Fi. If you need a computer, try the Eiger Guesthouse (6 SF/hour, daily 8:00-23:00, across from train station).
Laundry: Hotel Bellevue has a slick and modern little self-service launderette in its basement (5 SF/wash, 5 SF/dry, open 24/7).
Bike Rental: You can rent mountain bikes at Stäger Sport—ask about returning the bike in Lauterbrunnen for an extra fee (30 SF/half-day, 40 SF/day, includes helmet, daily 9:00-18:00, closed late Oct-mid-May, in middle of town, tel. 033-855-2355, staegersport.ch). There’s a bigger bike-rental place in Lauterbrunnen (Imboden Bike, described on here).
R & R: The slick Sportzentrum (sports center) that houses the TI offers a world of indoor activities. The pool is free with the regional Visitors Card given by area hotels (June-Oct daily 13:00-19:00, longer hours rest of year, closed Nov, tel. 033-856-8686, sportzentrum-muerren.ch). In season, they offer mini-golf, table tennis, and a fitness room.
Yoga: Denise (proprietor of the recommended Chalet Fontana) offers yoga classes at the sports center on Tuesdays in summer (mobile tel. 078-642-3485).
Skiing and Snowboarding: The Mürren-Schilthorn ski area is the Berner Oberland’s best place for experts, especially those eager to tackle the famous, nearly 10-mile-long Inferno run. The runs on top, especially the Kanonenrohr, are quite steep and have predictably good snow; lower areas cater to all levels, but can be icier. For rental gear, try the friendly, convenient Ed Abegglen shop (best prices, next to recommended Chalet Fontana, tel. 033-855-1245), Alfred’s Sporthaus (good selection and decent prices, between ski school and Sportzentrum, tel. 033-855-3030), or Stäger Sport (one shop in Sportzentrum and another on the lower road near cable-car station, tel. 033-855-2330).
Mürren has long been a top ski resort, but a walk across town offers a glimpse into a time before ski lifts. This stroll takes you through town on the main drag, from the train station (where you’ll arrive if coming from Lauterbrunnen) to the cable-car station, then back up to the Allmendhubel funicular station.
• Start at the...
Train Station: The first trains pulled into Mürren in 1891. (A circa-1911 car is permanently parked at Grütschalp’s station.) A display case inside the station displays an original car from the narrow-gauge, horse-powered line that rolled fancy visitors from here into town. The current station, built in 1964, comes with impressive engineering for heavy cargo. Look out back, where a small truck can be loaded up, attached to the train, and driven away.
• Wander into town along the main road (take the lower, left fork) for a stroll under the...
Alpin Palace Hotel: This towering place was the “Grand Palace Hotel” until it burned in 1928. Today it’s closed, and no one knows its future. The small wooden platform on the left—looking like a suicide springboard—is the place where snow-removal trucks dump their loads over the cliff in the winter. Look back at the meadow below the station: This is a favorite grazing spot for chamois (the animals, not the rags). Ahead, at Edelweiss Hotel, step to the far corner of the restaurant terrace for a breathtaking view stretching from the big three (Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau) on the left to the lonely cattle farm in the high alp on the right. Then look down.
• Continue toward an empty lot with a grand view.
Viewpoints: There are plans for a big apartment-hotel to be built here, but the project is waiting for investment money. Detour from the main street around the cliff-hanging tennis court. Stop at one of the little romantic shelters built into the far wall. Directly below, at the base of the modern wall, is the start of a one-mile “trail” with a steel cable (via ferrata), which mountaineers use to venture safely along the cliff all the way to Gimmelwald (described later). You can see the Gimmelwald lift station in the distance.
• Return to the main street and continue to...
“Downtown” Mürren: This main intersection (where the small service road leads down to Gimmelwald) has the only grocery store in town (the Co-op). A bit farther on, the tiny fire barn (labeled Feuerwehr) has a list showing the leaders of the volunteer force and their responsibilities. The old barn behind it on the right evokes the time, not so long ago, when the town’s barns housed cows. Imagine Mürren with more cows than people, rather than with more visitors than residents.
About 65 feet beyond the fire barn (across the street from the old schoolhouse—Altes Schulhaus), detour right uphill a few steps into the oldest part of town. Explore the windy little lanes, admiring the ancient woodwork on the houses and the cute little pea patches.
• Back on the main drag, continue to the far end of Mürren, where you come to the...
Cable-Car Station: The first cable car (goes directly to the valley floor) is for cargo, garbage, and the (reputedly) longest bungee jump in the world. The other takes hikers and skiers up to the Schilthorn and down to the valley via Gimmelwald.
• Hiking back into town along the high road, you’ll enter...
Upper Mürren: You’ll pass Mürren’s two churches, the Allmendhubel funicular station, and the Sportzentrum (with swimming pool and TI).
• Our walk is finished. Enjoy the town and the views.
During ski season and the height of summer, the Mürren area offers plenty of activities for those willing to seek them out. In spring and fall, Mürren is pretty dead.
A surprisingly rewarding funicular (built in 1912, renovated in 1999) carries nature lovers from Mürren up to Allmendhubel, a perch offering a Jungfrau view that, though much lower, rivals the Schilthorn. At the station, notice the 1920s bobsled. Consider mixing a mountain lift, grand views, and a hike with your meal by eating at the restaurant on Allmendhubel (good chef, open daily until 18:00). Allmendhubel is particularly good for families. The entertaining Adventure Trail children’s hike—with rough and thrilling kid-friendly alpine rides along the way—starts from here. This is also the departure point for the North Face hike and walks to Grütschalp (see here). While at Allmendhubel, consider its Flower Trail, a 20-minute loop with nice mountain views and (from June through Sept) a chance to see more than 150 different alpine flowers blooming.
Cost and Hours: 7.80 SF one-way, 12.60 SF round-trip, 6.40 SF round-trip with Swiss Pass, mid-June-mid-Oct daily 9:00-17:00, runs every 20 minutes, tel. 033-855-2042 or 033-856-2141, schilthorn.ch.
Mountaineers and thrill-seekers can test their nerves on this one-mile trail along the cliff running from Mürren to Gimmelwald. A via ferrata (“way of iron” in Italian) or Klettersteig (“climbing path” in German) is a cliffside trail made of metal steps drilled into the mountainside with a cable running at shoulder height above it. Equipped with a helmet, harness, and two carabiners, you are clipped to the cable the entire way. Experienced mountaineers can rent gear (25 SF from the Gimmelwald hostel or Mürren’s Intersport) and do it independently; others should hire a licensed mountain guide. For a peek at what you’re getting yourself into, search “via ferrata Switzerland Murren” at youtube.com.
The journey takes about three hours. While half of the route is easily walked, several hundred yards are literally hanging over a 2,400-foot drop. I did it, and through the most dangerous sections, I was too scared to look down or take pictures. Along with ladders and steps, the trip comes with three thrilling canyon crossings—one by zip line (possible with guide only), another on a single high wire (with steadying wires for each hand), and a final stint on a terrifying suspension bridge (which you can see from the Gimmelwald-Mürren cable-car—look for it just above Gimmelwald).
Cost and Hours: 95 SF, includes gear and donation to the Mürren Via Ferrata Association, guided tours in small groups of 4-8, tel. 033-821-6100, klettersteig-muerren.ch.
These are all good places for a drink after dinner: Eiger Guesthouse (a popular sports bar-type hangout with pool tables, games, and pay computers for Internet access), Stägerstübli (where old-timers nurse a drink and gossip), Hotel Blumental (with a characteristic cellar—lively when open), and Hotel Bellevue (with its elegant alpine-lounge ambience). All of these places are further described under “Sleeping in Mürren” or “Eating in Mürren.” In July and August, you can enjoy occasional folkloric evenings (some Wednesdays, at Sportzentrum).
(5,381 feet, 1 SF = about $1.10, country code: 41)
Prices for accommodations are often higher during the ski season. Many hotels and restaurants close in spring, roughly from Easter to early June, and may also shut down any time between late September and mid-December.
$$$ Hotel Eiger, a four-star hotel dramatically and conveniently situated just across from the tiny train station, is a good bet. Family-run for four generations, Adrian and Susanna Stahli offer all the service you’d expect in a big city hotel (plush lounge, indoor swimming pool, and sauna) while maintaining a creaky, Old World, woody elegance in its 50 rooms. Their family suites, while pricey (390-410 SF), include two double rooms and can be a good value for groups of four or five (Db-275-295 SF, view rooms-295-315 SF, grand breakfast, discounts for stays of 3 nights or more, email for best deals, half board with five-course dinner-55 SF/person, free Wi-Fi, tel. 033-856-5454, hoteleiger.com, info@hoteleiger.com).
$$$ At Hotel Edelweiss, it’s all about the location—convenient and literally hanging on the cliff with devastating views. It’s a big, modern building with 30 basic rooms (some with balconies) and a busy, recommended restaurant well-run by hardworking Sandra and Daniel Kuster-von Allmen (Sb-105-120 SF, smaller Db-160-190 SF, larger Db with guaranteed view-190-220 SF, discount for 2 or more nights, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, elevator, piano in lounge, self-serve laundry-10 SF/load, tel. 033-856-5600, edelweiss-muerren.ch, info@edelweiss-muerren.ch).
$$$ Hotel Bellevue has a homey lounge, solid woodsy furniture, a great view terrace, the hunter-themed Jägerstübli restaurant, and 19 great rooms at fair rates—most with balconies and views (viewless hillside Db-170 SF, view Db-190-230 SF—150 SF if staying 2 nights or more in early June or Sept-Oct, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, closed May and Nov, tel. 033-855-1401, muerren.ch/bellevue, bellevue@muerren.ch, Ruth and Othmar Suter).
$$$ Hotel Jungfrau offers 29 modern and comfortable rooms and an apartment for up to six people (Sb-95-120 SF, Db-150-210 SF, lower prices are for rooms with humdrum view of hillside, email for best deals, extra bed-80 SF, elevator, laundry service-20 SF, pay guest computer, free Wi-Fi in common areas, expensive pay Wi-Fi in rooms, close to TI/Sportzentrum, tel. 033-856-6464, hoteljungfrau.ch, mail@hoteljungfrau.ch, Martin and Connie).
$$ Hotel Blumental has 16 older but nicely furnished rooms and a recommended restaurant in the main building, plus six modern rooms of equal quality in the chalet out back (Sb-100-130 SF, Db-150-170 SF, prices depend on demand, if booking direct and staying 3 nights in Sept-Oct ask for Rick Steves discount, free cable Internet and Wi-Fi, closed May and Nov, tel. 033-855-1826, muerren.ch/blumental, blumental@muerren.ch; Ralph and Heidi, fourth generation in the von Allmen family).
$$ Eiger Guesthouse offers 12 good, small budget rooms across from the train station in a simply furnished, renovated older building with an easygoing ground-floor pub. Four of the rooms share two sets of bathroom facilities. Ema—born in Portugal but a longtime resident of Switzerland—is your host (S-75 SF, Sb-80-95 SF, D-100-120 SF, Db-130-170 SF, bunk Q-180-200 SF, bunk Qb-200-240 SF, prices depend on view; ask about discount with this book: bunk D-95 SF with a 2-night minimum year-round—making this a great deal for cheap beds in July-Aug; lots of stairs, free guest computer and Wi-Fi, game room, view terrace, tel. 033-856-5460, eigerguesthouse.com, info@eigerguesthouse.com).
$ Chalet Fontana, run by charming Englishwoman Denise Fussell, is a rare budget option in Mürren, with five simple, crispy-clean, and comfortable rooms (S-55 SF, D-90-95 SF, large D-100 SF, T-130 SF, cash only, closed late Oct-April, fridge in common kitchen, inexpensive pay Wi-Fi, across street from Stägerstübli restaurant in town center, mobile 078-642-3485, chaletfontana.ch, chaletfontana@gmail.com). Denise also rents a family apartment with kitchen, bathroom, and breakfast (two bedrooms with 3 beds each, 150 SF/2 people, 180 SF/3 people, 210 SF/4 people, 270 SF/6 people).
Many of these restaurants are in or near my recommended hotels. Outside of summer and ski season, it can be hard to find any place that’s open (ask around).
Hotel Edelweiss offers lunches and restaurant dinners with the most cliff-hanging dining in town—the views are incredible, and the prices are good, too (19-21-SF pizzas, hearty 18-SF salads, 24-SF fondue, sandwiches; daily main dish 19 SF or 24 SF with soup and dessert, family-friendly, tel. 033-856-5600).
Stägerstübli is Mürren’s only real restaurant not associated with a hotel. Located in the town center, this 1902 building was once a tearoom for rich tourists, while locals were limited to the room in the back—which is now the nicer area to eat. Sitting on its terrace, you know just who’s out and about in town (16-21-SF Rösti, 20-35-SF meat dishes, big portions, daily 11:30-21:00, closed first week of Sept, Lydia).
Hotel Blumental specializes in typical Swiss cuisine, but also serves fish, international, and vegetarian dishes in a stony and woody dining area. It’s one of Mürren’s most elegant, romantic settings (18-35-SF main courses, 22-25-SF fondue served for one or more, 15-SF pastas, daily from 17:00, closed Nov and May, tel. 033-855-1826).
Hotel Bellevue’s restaurant is atmospheric, with three dining zones: a spectacular view terrace, a sophisticated indoor area, and the Jägerstübli—a cozy, well-antlered hunters’ room guaranteed to disgust vegetarians. This is a good bet for game, as they buy chamois and deer direct from local hunters (lamb or game-34-40 SF, Rösti and bratwurst dishes 20-25 SF, daily 11:30-14:00 & 18:00-21:00, closed mid-April-mid-June and mid-Oct-mid-Dec, tel. 033-855-1401).
Supermarket: The Co-op is the only grocery store in town, with good picnic fixings and sandwiches (Mon-Fri 8:00-12:00 & 13:45-18:30, Sat until 17:00, closed Sun). Given restaurant prices, this place is a godsend for those on a tight budget.
Many people enjoy at least one of the two high-altitude thrill rides described here, but they’re quite expensive. You can also enjoy the mountains on foot with the help of more modestly priced lifts (covered later).
The Schilthornbahn cable car carries skiers, hikers, and sightseers effortlessly to the nearly 10,000-foot summit of the Schilthorn, where the Piz Gloria cable-car station awaits, with its solar-powered revolving restaurant, shop, and panorama terrace. At the top, you have a spectacular panoramic view of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau mountains, lined up on the horizon.
Ascending the Schilthorn: You can ride to the Schilthorn and back from several points—the cable-car station near Stechelberg on the valley floor (99 SF), cliff-hanging Gimmelwald (89 SF), or the higher Mürren (77 SF). Snare a 25 percent discount for early and late rides (leaving Stechelberg 7:25-8:55 and 15:25-16:25) and in spring and fall (roughly May and Oct). If you have a Swiss Pass (free ride from valley to Mürren, 50 percent discount Mürren-Schilthorn) or Eurail pass (25 percent off the whole trip), you might as well go whenever you like, because you can’t double up discounts. If you’re staying a few days in Mürren or Gimmelwald and planning to go up, the Schilthornbahn’s Holiday Pass starts to make sense (free travel on all routes between Lauterbrunnen and the peak, 120 SF/4 days or 140 SF/6 days, available May-early Nov only).
Lifts go twice hourly, and the ride from Gimmelwald (including two transfers) to the Schilthorn takes 30 minutes. Lifts run all year, except for a few weeks of maintenance closures (April and Nov-Dec). You can park your car at the valley station near Stechelberg (3 SF/2 hours, 7 SF/day, cash or credit card). For more information, including current weather conditions, see schilthorn.ch or call 033-826-0007.
As the cable car floats between Gimmelwald and Mürren you’ll see the metal bridge that marks the end of the via ferrata. You’ll also see fields of wooden tripods, which serve two purposes: They stop avalanches and shelter newly planted trees. Made of wood, they’re designed to eventually rot when the tree they protect is strong enough to survive the winter snowpack. From Mürren to Birg, keep an eye on the altitude meter. Ask about the new Skyline Walk at Birg—a transparent walkway jutting out over a precipice that may be open by the time you visit.
At the Top: Head up two escalators to the Skyline View Platform. Outside, information boards identify each peak, and directional signs point hikers toward some seriously steep downhill climbs. Watch paragliders set up, psych up, and take off, flying 45 minutes with the birds to distant Interlaken. Walk along the ridge out back and step onto the Piz Gloria view platform at the end of the fenced area. This is a great place for a photo of the mountain-climber you. Youth hostelers—not realizing that rocks may hide just under the snow—scream down the ice fields on plastic-bag sleds from the mountaintop. (There’s an English-speaking doctor in Lauterbrunnen—see here.)
Back inside, peek in the Souvenir Top Shop or head down the stairs and follow the maze that leads to the Bond World 007 exhibit and cinema. (Are you tired of hearing the theme music yet?) This interactive exhibit, well-signed in English, is worth a few minutes for even non-Bond fans. It takes you behind the scenes of the 1969 James Bond movie, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, which used the Schilthorn as one of its major locations. Step into the role of James Bond and try your hand at flying a helicopter to Piz Gloria or luging down the Alps. Don’t miss the opportunity to morph your face onto one of several Bond stars. (Pictures available in the gift shop, of course.)
At the end of the exhibit, the Bond World 007 cinema shows a 20-minute video of the natural wonders of the area, highlights a few activities—including racing down the famous Inferno ski run, briefly shares the story of the Schilthornbahn lift itself, and shows a substantial clip from On Her Majesty’s Secret Service.
You can ride up to the Schilthorn and hike down, but it’s tough. (Hiking up from Gimmelwald or Mürren is easier on your knees...if you don’t mind a 5,000-foot altitude gain to 9,748 feet.) For information on hikes from lift stations along the Schilthorn cable-car line, see “Hiking and Biking,” later. My favorite “hike” from the Schilthorn is simply along the ridge out back, to get away from the station and be all alone on top of an Alp.
Summit-High Breakfast: The huge 29.50-SF “007 Breakfast Buffet” is served 8:00-10:30 from the top floor of the Piz Gloria. Save a few francs by adding the breakfast buffet to your lift ticket before heading up. The restaurant also serves salads (5-16 SF), soups (8-11 SF), and main dishes (8-30 SF) all day at prices that don’t rise with the altitude.
The literal high point of any trip to the Swiss Alps is a train ride through the Eiger mountain to the Jungfraujoch (the saddle between the Mönch and Jungfrau mountains). At 11,333 feet, it’s Europe’s highest train station. (If you have a heart or lung condition, you may want to check with your doctor before making this ascent.) Keep in mind that you can enjoy the Berner Oberland without taking this trip—it’s long, slow, expensive, crowded, and cold. But if the weather’s good and you have a spare day and spare cash, the views are exhilarating and it’s fun to be up on a snowy glacier in midsummer.
Planning Your Trip: Visiting the Jungfraujoch takes up most of a day. The trip up from Lauterbrunnen takes a little under two hours each way, with a change of trains halfway at Kleine Scheidegg. If you’re coming from Interlaken, Gimmelwald, or Mürren, add another half-hour. You’ll want at least 1.5 hours at the top—more if you eat, hike, or sled. Expect outdoor temperatures to be around freezing in summer—so if you plan to go outside, bring a hat and gloves, as well as shoes with good traction, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Even if you stay inside, the train is chilly, and you’ll need a jacket. It’s smart to buy tickets the day before (seats can run out in peak season). Check the weather forecast at jungfrau.ch before committing. If it’s cloudy, skip the trip.
Times and Prices: The train runs all year, about twice hourly, and costs 198 SF round-trip from Interlaken Ost, 176 SF from Lauterbrunnen, and 120 SF from Kleine Scheidegg. From May to October, the first and last trips of the day cost 25 percent less (first trip leaves Interlaken Ost at 6:35 and Lauterbrunnen at 7:07—to get the discount you must leave the top by 12:00; last trip leaves Interlaken Ost at 14:05 and Lauterbrunnen at 14:37, but gives you only an hour at the top). Eurail passholders get 25 percent off and can’t combine discounts, so they should go whenever they want. The same goes for Swiss Pass holders, who travel free as far as Wengen and pay only from there (also 25 percent off). For more information, visit jungfrau.ch or call 033-828-7233.
The Jungfraubahn has two pass deals (the 6-day Jungfraubahnen Pass and the 3-day Jungfrau VIP Pass) that offer free or discounted rides to the Jungfraujoch as well as free rides on most other area trains and lifts (but not to Gimmelwald or up the Schilthorn). Buying one of these passes is a gamble on the weather, and it’s usually hard to make them pay off unless you travel like mad.
Ascending the Jungfraujoch: The final 50 minutes of the trip—from Kleine Scheidegg—is mostly in a tunnel. On the ascent, the train makes two five-minute stops at two “stations” actually halfway up the notorious North Face of the Eiger. You have time to look out windows and marvel at how people could climb the Eiger—and how the Swiss built this train track more than a hundred years ago. Newer train cars run multilingual videos about the history of the train line.
At the Top: Once you reach the top, breathe deep, take it easy, and move slowly—you’re way high up and your body isn’t used to such altitudes. Study the map to see your options. The main building has a reasonably priced self-service restaurant with expensive beverages, more expensive restaurants with table service, luggage lockers, and touristy shops. A roped-in, snowy lookout plateau affords amazing views both north and south. Slip-slide along the corridors of the ice palace, which has some modest carvings. The “Alpine Sensation” is a cute, cheesy diorama with moving model trains.
You’ll walk through a short tunnel to reach the most interesting parts of the complex. Take the elevator up to the Sphinx observation deck at 11,700 feet. (The Jungfrau Panorama is a 360-degree video that’s pleasantly distracting while you wait in line for the elevator.) Here the views are truly astounding—deep below to the north are Kleine Scheidegg, Gimmelwald, and in the distance, Interlaken; to the south spreads the Aletsch Glacier—Europe’s longest, at nearly 11 miles. The Sphinx has a tiny snack stand and a few indoor and outdoor benches where you can sit to munch a sandwich. There’s a scientific measurement station here, and back downstairs by the elevator are some posters with interesting statistics on recent climate warming and the recovery of the ozone layer.
Just outside, a “Snow Fun” zone set up on the Aletsch Glacier offers skiing and snowboarding (35 SF), sledding (15 SF), and the chance to glide along a 250-yard cable stretched through the air (20 SF; no time limit, 45 SF for all three activities, April-Oct only). If properly equipped (you’ll want poles and hiking boots), you can hike an hour across the ice to Mönchsjochhütte (a mountain hut with a small restaurant). You can combine one of the best hikes in the region—from Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg—with your trip up to the Jungfraujoch (see here).
This area offers days of possible hikes. Many are a fun combination of trails, mountain trains, and cable-car rides. I’ve listed them based on which side of the Lauterbrunnen Valley they’re on: west (the Gimmelwald/Mürren/Schilthorn side) or east (the Jungfrau side).
Several tough trails lead down from the Schilthorn, but most visitors take the cable car round-trip simply for the views (see “Scenic Lifts and Trains,” earlier). If you’re a serious hiker, consider walking all the way down (first hike) or part of the way down (second hike) back into Gimmelwald. Don’t attempt to hike down from the Schilthorn unless the trail is clear of snow. Adequate shoes and clothing (weather can change quickly) and good knees are required. (If you want to visit the Sprutz Waterfall on your way to Gimmelwald, see here.)
To hike downhill from the Piz Gloria revolving restaurant at the peak, start at the steps to the right of the cable, which lead along a ridge between a cliff and the bowl. As you pass huge rocks and shale fields, keep an eye out for the painted rocks that mark the scant trail. Eventually, you’ll hit the service road (a ski run in the winter), which is steep and not very pleasant. Passing a memorial to a woman killed by lightning in 1865, you come to the small lake called Grauseeli. Leave the gravel road and hike along the lake. From there, follow the trail (with the help of cables when necessary) to scamper along the shale in the direction of Rotstockhütte (to Gimmelwald, see next hike) or Schilttal (the valley leading directly to Mürren; follow Mürren/Rotstockhütte sign painted on the rock at the junction).
Rather than doing the very long hike all the way from the Schilthorn back down into Gimmelwald, I prefer walking the easier (but still strenuous) hike from the intermediate cable-car station at Birg. (If you’re interested, remember to ask at Birg if the new Skyline Walk—a transparent walkway over a drop-off—is open.) Hiking from Birg is efficiently combined with a visit to the Schilthorn (from Schilthorn summit, ride cable car halfway down, get off at Birg, and hike down from there; buy the round-trip excursion early-bird fare, which is cheaper than the Gimmelwald-Schilthorn-Birg ticket, and decide at Birg whether you want to hike or ride down).
The most interesting trail from Birg to Gimmelwald is the high one via Grauseeli lake and Wasenegg Ridge to Bryndli, then down to Spielbodenalp and the Sprutz Waterfall. Warning: This trail is quite steep and slippery in places, and can take four hours. Locals take their kindergartners on this hike, but it can seem dangerous to Americans unused to alpine hikes. Do not attempt this hike in snow, which you might find at this altitude even in the peak of summer. (Get local advice.)
From the Birg lift station, hike toward the Schilthorn, taking your first left down and passing along the left side of the little Grauseeli lake. From the lake, a gravelly trail leads down rough switchbacks (including a stretch where the path narrows and you can hang onto a guide cable against the cliff face) until it levels out. When you see a rock painted with arrows pointing to Mürren and Rotstockhütte, follow the path to Rotstockhütte (traditional old farm with light meals and drinks, mattress loft with cheap beds), traversing the cow-grazed mountainside.
For a thrill, follow Wasenegg Ridge. It’s more scary than dangerous if you’re sure-footed and can handle the 50-foot-long “tightrope-with-handrail” section along an extremely narrow ledge with a thousand-foot drop. This trail gets you to Bryndli with the least altitude drop. (The safer, well-signposted approach to Bryndli is to drop down to Rotstockhütte, then climb back up to Bryndli.) The barbed-wire fence leads you to Bryndli’s knobby little summit, where you’ll enjoy an incredible 360-degree view and a chance to sign your name on the register stored in the little wooden box.
A steep trail winds directly down from Bryndli toward Gimmelwald and soon hits a bigger, easier trail. The trail bends right (just before the farm/restaurant at Spielbodenalp), leading to Sprutz. Walk under the Sprutz Waterfall, then follow a steep, wooded trail that deposits you in a meadow of flowers at the top side of Gimmelwald.
The trail from Gimmelwald up the Sefinen Valley (Sefinental) is a good rainy-weather hike, as you can go as far as you like. After two hours and a gain of only 800 feet, you hit the end of the trail and Kilchbalm, a dramatic bowl of glacier fields. Snow can make this trail unsafe, even into the summer (ask locally for information), and there’s no food or drink along the way.
From the Gimmelwald fire station, walk about 100 yards down the paved Stechelberg road. Leave it on the dirt Sefinental road, which becomes a lane, then a trail. You’ll cross a raging river and pass a firing range where locals practice their marksmanship (Fri and Sat evenings; the danger of fire sign refers to live bullets). Follow signs to Kilchbalm into a forest, along a river, and finally to the glacier fields.
This eight-hour, 11-mile hike can be extremely rewarding, offering perfect peace, very few people, traditional alpine culture, and spectacular views. (There’s no food or drink for five hours, so pack accordingly.) The trail can be a bit confusing, so this is best done with a good, locally purchased map.
About 100 yards below the Gimmelwald firehouse, take the Sefinental dirt road (described in previous listing). As the dirt road switches back after about 30 minutes, take the right turn across the river and start your ascent, following signs to Obersteinberg. After 1.5 hours of hard climbing, you have the option of a side-trip to Busenalp. This is fun if the goat-and-cow herder is there, as you can watch traditional cheesemaking in action. (He appreciates a bottle of wine from hikers.) Trail markers are painted onto rocks—watch carefully. After visiting Busenalp, return to the main path.
At the Obersteinberg 50 Min/Tanzbodeli 20 Min signpost, head for Tanzbodeli (“Dancing Floor”). This is everyone’s favorite alpine perch—great for a little romance or a picnic with breathtaking views of the Obersteinberg valley. From here, you enter a natural reserve, so you’re likely to see chamois and other alpine critters. From Tanzbodeli, you return to the main trail (there’s no other way out) and continue to Obersteinberg. You’ll eventually hit the Mountain Hotel Obersteinberg (American expat Vickie will serve you a meal or drink).
From there, the trail leads to another mountain hotel at Tschingelhorn (tschingelhorn.ch). About an hour later, you hit a fork in the trail and choose where you’d like your hike to end: back to Gimmelwald (2 hours total) or Stechelberg (near the bottom of the Schilthornbahn cable car, 1.5 hours total).
The forest above Gimmelwald hides a powerful waterfall with a trail snaking behind it, offering a fun gorge experience. While the waterfall itself is not well-signed, it’s on the Gimmelwald-Spielbodenalp trail. It’s steep, through a forest, and can be very slippery when wet, but the actual crossing under the waterfall is just misty.
The hike up to Sprutz from Gimmelwald isn’t worth the trip in itself, but it’s handy when combined with the hike down from Birg and Bryndli (described earlier) or the North Face Trail (see next listing). As you descend on either of these two hikes, the trail down to Gimmelwald splits at Spielbodenalp—to the right for the forest and the waterfall; to the left for more meadows, the hamlet of Gimmeln, and more gracefully back into Gimmelwald.
For a pleasant 2.5-hour hike, head out along this four-mile trail, starting at 6,385 feet and finishing at 5,375 feet (some stretches can be challenging if you’re not in shape). To reach the trail, ride the Allmendhubel funicular up from Mürren (much cheaper than Schilthorn, good restaurant at top, see here). From there, follow the well-signed route, which loops counterclockwise around to Mürren (or cut off at Spielbodenalp, near the end, and descend into Gimmelwald via the Sprutz Waterfall). As this trail doesn’t technically begin at Allmendhubel, you’ll start by following signs to Sonnenberg. Then just follow the blue signs. You’ll enjoy great views, flowery meadows, mountain huts, and a dozen information boards along the way, describing the fascinating climbing history of the great peaks around you.
Along the trail, you’ll pass four farms (technically “alps,” as they are only open in the summer) that serve meals and drinks. Sonnenberg was allowed to break the all-wood building code with concrete for protection against avalanches. Suppenalp is quainter. Lean against the house with a salad, soup, or sandwich and enjoy the view. Just below Suppenalp is a little adventure park with zip lines and other kid-pleasing activities.
Notice how older huts are built into the protected side of rocks and outcroppings, in anticipation of avalanches. Above Suppenalp, Blumental (“Flower Valley”) is hopping with marmots. Because hunters are not allowed near lifts, animals have learned that these are safe places to hang out—giving tourists a better chance of spotting them.
The trail leads up and over to a group of huts called Schiltalp (good food, drink, and service, and a romantic farm setting). If the poles under the eaves have bells, the cows are up here. If not, the cows are still at the lower farms. Half the cows in Gimmelwald (about 100) spend their summers here. In July, August, and September, you can watch cheese being made and have a snack or drink. Thirty years ago, each family had its own hut. Labor was cheap and available. Today, it’s a communal thing, with several families sharing the expense of a single cow herder. Cow herders are master cheesemakers and have veterinary skills, too.
From Schiltalp, the trail winds gracefully down toward Spielbodenalp. From there you can finish the North Face Trail (continuing down and left through meadows and the hamlet of Gimmeln, then back to Mürren, with more historic signposts), or cut off right (descending steeply through a thick forest and under the dramatic Sprutz Waterfall into Gimmelwald—see Sprutz Waterfall, previous page , for details).
For a not-too-tough two-hour walk with great Jungfrau views, ride the funicular from Mürren to Allmendhubel and walk to Grütschalp (a drop of about 1,500 feet), where you can catch the train back to Mürren. An easier version is the lower Bergweg from Allmendhubel to Grütschalp via Winteregg and its cheese farm. For a super-easy family stroll with grand views, walk from Mürren just above the train tracks either to Winteregg (40 minutes, restaurant, playground, train station) or through even better scenery on to Grütschalp (1 hour, train station), then catch the train back to Mürren.
This is my favorite easy alpine hike (2.5 miles, 1-1.5 hours, 900-foot altitude drop to Kleine Scheidegg). It’s entertaining all the way, with glorious mountain views. If you missed the plot, it’s the Young Maiden (Jungfrau), being protected from the Ogre (Eiger) by the Monk (Mönch). Trails may be snowbound into June; ask about conditions at the lift stations or at TIs (see “Jungfraujoch” listing on here).
If the weather’s good, start off bright and early. From the Lauterbrunnen train station, take the little mountain train up to Wengen. Sit on the right side of the train for great valley and waterfall views. In Wengen, buy a picnic at the Co-op grocery across the square from the station (Mon-Sat 8:00-18:30, closed Sun), walk across town, and catch the lift to Männlichen, located on top of the ridge high above you (23 SF, half-price with Swiss Pass, 3-4/hour, 2-minute trip, first ascent at 8:00 or 8:10 in summer, tel. 033-855-2933, maennlichen.ch). The lift can be open even if the trail is closed; if the weather is questionable, confirm that the Männlichen-Kleine Scheidegg trail is open before ascending. Don’t waste time in Wengen if it’s sunny—you can linger back here after your hike.
Riding the gondola from Wengen to Männlichen, you’ll go over the old lift station (inundated by a 1978 avalanche that buried a good part of Wengen—notice there’s no development in the “red zone” above the tennis courts). Farms are built with earthen ramps on the uphill side in anticipation of the next slide. The forest of avalanche fences near the top was built after that 1978 avalanche. As you ascend you can also survey Wengen—the bright red roofs mark new vacation condos, mostly English-owned and used only a few weeks a year.
For a detour that’ll give you an easy king- or queen-of-the-mountain feeling, turn left from the top of the Wengen-Männlichen lift station, and hike uphill 10 minutes to the little peak (Männlichen Gipfel, 7,500 feet).
Then go back to the lift station (which has a great kids’ area) and enjoy the walk—facing spectacular alpine panorama views—to Kleine Scheidegg for a picnic or restaurant lunch. To start the hike, leave the Wengen-Männlichen lift station to the right. Walk past the second Männlichen lift station (this one leads to Grindelwald, the touristy town in the valley to your left). Ahead of you in the distance, left to right, are the north faces of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau; in the foreground is the Tschuggen peak, and just behind it, the Lauberhorn. This hike takes you around the left (east) side of this ridge. Simply follow the signs for Kleine Scheidegg, and you’ll be there in about an hour—a little more for gawkers, picnickers, and photographers. You might have to tiptoe through streams of melted snow—or some small snow banks, even well into the summer—but the path is well-marked, well-maintained, and mostly level all the way to Kleine Scheidegg.
About 35 minutes into the hike, you’ll reach a bunch of benches and a shelter with incredible unobstructed views of all three peaks—the perfect picnic spot. Fifteen minutes later, on the left, you’ll see the first sign of civilization: Restaurant Grindelwaldblick (the best lunch stop up here, open daily, closed Nov and May). Hike to the restaurant’s fun mountain lookout to survey the Eiger and look down on the Kleine Scheidegg action. After 10 more minutes, you’ll be at the Kleine Scheidegg train station, with plenty of lesser lunch options.
From Kleine Scheidegg (rated ▲▲ for its spectacular panoramic mountain view), you can catch the train up to “the top of Europe” (see Jungfraujoch listing, earlier), take the train back down to Wengen, or hike downhill (gorgeous 30-minute hike to Wengernalp Station, a little farther to the Allmend stop; 60 more steep minutes from there into Wengen). The alpine views might be accompanied by the valley-filling mellow sound of alphorns and distant avalanches. If the weather turns bad or you run out of steam, catch the train at any of the stations along the way. After Wengernalp, the trail to Wengen is steep and, though not dangerous, requires a good set of knees. The boring final descent from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen is knee-killer steep—catch the train instead.
The best day I’ve had hiking in the Berner Oberland was when I made this demanding six-hour ridge walk, with Lake Brienz on one side and all that Jungfrau beauty on the other. Start at the Wilderswil train station (just outside Interlaken), and catch the little train up to Schynige Platte (6,560 feet; 34 SF, every 40 minutes, 55 minutes). The high point on the trail is Faulhorn (8,790 feet, with its famous mountaintop hotel). From here, hike on to a small mini-gondola called “First” (7,110 feet), then ride down to Grindelwald (31 SF; runs continuously, about 8:00-17:00 or 18:00) and catch a train back to your starting point, Wilderswil. Or, if you have a regional train pass (or no car but endless money), take the long, scenic return trip: From nearby Grindelwald-Grund, take the gondola up to Männlichen (31 SF; runs continuously 8:00-17:00), do the nearly level hike to Kleine Scheidegg, and ride the train down to Wengen and Lauterbrunnen.
For a shorter (3-hour) ridge walk, consider the well-signposted Panoramaweg, a loop from Schynige Platte to Daub Peak.
The alpine flower park at Schynige Platte Station offers a delightful stroll through several hundred alpine flowers (free, June-Sept daily 8:30-18:00, alpengarten.ch), including a chance to see edelweiss growing in the wild.
Lowa, a leading local manufacturer of top-end hiking boots, has a promotional booth at Schynige Platte Station that provides free loaners to hikers who’d like to give their boots a try. They’re already broken in, but bring thick socks (or buy them there).
If hiking here, be mindful of the last lifts (which can be as early as 16:30). Hiking from First (7,113 feet) to Schynige Platte (6,454 feet) gives you a later departure down and less climbing. The TI produces a great Schynige Platte map/guide narrating the train ride up and describing various hiking options from there (available at Wilderswil Station).
Mountain biking is popular and accepted, as long as you stay on the clearly marked mountain-bike paths. You can rent bikes in Mürren (Stäger Sport, see here) or in Lauterbrunnen (Imboden Bike, see here). The Lauterbrunnen shop is bigger, has a wider selection of bikes, and is likely to be open when the Mürren one isn’t. But if you pick up a bike in Mürren, you may be able to drop it at the Lauterbrunnen train station (ask). The most popular bike rides include the following:
Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken: This is a gentle downhill ride on a peaceful bike path across the river from the road (don’t bike on the road itself). You can return to Lauterbrunnen by train (you’ll have to buy a regular ticket for the bike). Or rent a bike at either Interlaken station, take the train to Lauterbrunnen, and ride back.
Lauterbrunnen Valley (between Stechelberg and Lauterbrunnen town): This delightful, easy bike path features plenty of diversions along the way (several listed under “Activities in and near Lauterbrunnen” on here).
Mürren to Winteregg to Grütschalp and Back: This fairly level route takes you through high country, with awesome mountain views.
Mürren to Winteregg to Lauterbrunnen: This scenic descent, on a service road with loose gravel, takes you to the Lauterbrunnen Valley floor.
Mürren-Gimmelwald-Sefinen Valley-Stechelberg-Lauterbrunnen-Grütschalp-Mürren: This is rewarding but very demanding—with one very difficult stretch where you’ll likely walk your bike down a steep gulley for 500 yards. While you’ll be on your bike most of the time, to complete the loop take the cable car from Lauterbrunnen up to Grütschalp and then bike back to Mürren.