Chapter 4

Vegetables and Fruit

Salt blocks and vegetables go together like lawns and soccer balls, like shoulders and piggyback rides, like parents away for the weekend and pizza parties. They all exist just fine, the one without the other, but together they spell good times, pure and simple.

Plants are packed with nutritionally vital potassium, but are naturally low in the salt block’s equally vital sodium, so together they are nutritionally compatible. The low sodium, high moisture, and occasional bitterness of plants mean they depend on added sodium more than any other food for flavor. On the grill the salt block does double duty. The heat and the salt work together to soften the plant’s tough fibers, and the heat caramelizes the edges to create flavorful crispy bits.

Vegetables are pieces of plants that we eat. For cooking purposes they are better identified and categorized by their plant part: leaf, stem, flower, seed, root, or fruit. For instance, beets and carrots are both roots: hard, fibrous, low in moisture, and high in sugar, which is why they are grilled similarly on a salt block. When you heat them, they dry out and take a long time to tenderize. For salt block grilling, root vegetables are best thinly sliced to maximize heat transfer and grilled over moderately low heat, to give the fibers time to slowly soften.

Peppers and peaches are both fruits (soft parts of a plant that house seeds). They are both pulpy, moderately fibrous, and high in both moisture and sugar. Even though we think of them as being radically different, when we think about grilling them, it is helpful to group them together. Fruit, including fruits we consider sweet, like peaches and melons, and those we consider savory, like tomatoes and cucumbers, tend to be juicy. Care should be taken to moderate their release of water on to the salt, and because they can vary widely in fiber strength, the heating of each fruit needs to be considered on its own merits. Grilled tomatoes will collapse in minutes, while crisper apples can withstand a long, slow period on the stone.

Leaves are high in moisture, low in fiber, and filled with air. When you heat them, their fiber collapses, releasing the air and the water, which makes them shrink to nothing—a problem that is exacerbated when grilling on a salt block because the released water dissolves the salt, and then you are basically boiling the leaves in supersaturated saltwater. Leaves are best grilled quickly on superhot blocks in heads rather than as separate leaves, so they brown and have little time to wilt or lose water.

The following recipes can be used as templates for cooking all types of vegetables and fruit. And the first master recipe is designed to be just that. It includes a table with instructions for salt-grilling everything from apples to zucchini.

Salt-Block-Grilled Vegetables with Bitters Vinaigrette

Makes 4 servings

Although salt-block-grilled vegetable recipes vary slightly by heat intensity and timing, the methods are all the same. Trim and cut the vegetables into appropriate sizes and shapes to ensure complete and even cooking, brush them liberally with oil to moderate the amount of salt that gets picked up and to prevent oxidation, and slap them on a hot salt brick. That’s all there is to it.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick, or several (4 by 8 by 2-inch) salt bricks

Vinaigrette

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 shallot, minced

2 tablespoons nut oil, walnut or hazelnut

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons your choice of bitters: citrus, celery, ginger, cardamom, grapefruit, or any combination

1 teaspoon aromatic bitters

Vegetables

1 pound of any vegetable, trimmed and cut for grilling (see table)

1 tablespoon vegetable oil, such as olive, canola, safflower, grape seed, or corn

Half an hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt block on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the block for 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 10 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 10 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 450°F. Turn the heat down to medium. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the block on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, using grill gloves, move the block so that it is over the coals. In 10 minutes, your block will be 450°F and ready for grilling. Using grill gloves, move the block to the cooler side of the grill.

While the block is heating, make the vinaigrette. Put the vinegar and shallot in a small bowl and let sit for 10 minutes while you assemble the remaining ingredients. Add the oils, pepper, and both types of bitters, and whisk to combine.

Arrange the vegetable pieces in a single layer on the hot salt, cover the grill, and cook the amount of time indicated in the table here, flipping with a long-handled spatula halfway through. Depending on the size of your block, this may need to be done in batches.

Transfer to a serving platter or bowl. Whisk the vinaigrette, drizzle over the top, and serve.

Vegetable and Fruit Table
Here is basic info for salt-block grilling almost any fruit or vegetable. (Note: Some produce, like broccoli rabe or rutabaga, will not cook through on a grill, let alone a salt block.) The preparation column tells basically how you cut it. The heat column indicates the temperature on the surface of the salt block, i.e., 550°F for high, 450°F for medium, 350°F for low. And the time column tells you the total grilling time. Most items are flipped halfway through.

Ingredient	Preparation	Heat	Time
Apple	Peeled, cored, sliced or cut in wedges, oiled	Medium	8 minutes
Apricot	Pitted, halved, oiled	Medium	6 minutes
Artichokes, baby	Halved or sliced, oiled	Medium-low	10 minutes
Asian pear	Peeled, cored, thinly sliced, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Asparagus	Trimmed, oiled	High	4 minutes
Banana	Peeled, halved lengthwise, oiled, don’t flip	High	4 minutes
Beets	Peeled, thinly sliced, oiled	Medium	8 minutes
Belgian endive	Halved lengthwise, oiled	High	3 minutes
Bell pepper	Whole, on 4 sides/Strips, on 2 sides	High	4 minutes per side
Bok choy, baby	Halved lengthwise, oiled	High	4 minutes
Broccolini	Stalks, hard ends trimmed, oiled	Medium	5 minutes
Broccoli	Sliced, hard ends trimmed, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Brussels sprouts	Trimmed, thinly sliced or shredded, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Cabbage	Trimmed, thinly sliced or shredded, oiled	Medium	6 minutes
Carrots	Thinly sliced, oiled	Medium	6 minutes
Cauliflower	Broken into florets, sliced, oiled	Medium-low	8 minutes
Celery/Cardoons	Thinly sliced	High	3 minutes
Cherimoya	Cut into wedges, pitted, oiled	High	4 minutes
Chickpeas	Cooked or canned, oiled	High	4 minutes
Chile pepper, fresh	Whole, on 4 sides	High	1 minute per side
Corn on the cob	Husked, whole	Medium	8 minutes
Cucumber	Sliced, oiled	High	1 minute
Dragon fruit	Sliced, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Edamame	Shelled, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Eggplant	Whole, on 4 sides/Sliced, on 2 sides	Medium	6 minutes per side
Fava beans	Cooked, oiled	High	5 minutes
Fennel	Thinly sliced, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Fiddlehead ferns	Hard ends trimmed, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Fig	Halved, oiled	High	2 minutes
Garlic	Whole cloves	Medium	3 minutes
Green beans, young	Trimmed, whole, oiled	Medium	6 minutes
Hearts of palm	Whole or halved, oiled	High	4 minutes
Leeks	Halved or sliced, oiled	Medium	6 minutes
Lychee	Peeled, whole	High	2 minutes

 

Ingredient	Preparation	Heat	Time
Mushrooms	Halved or sliced	High	3 minutes
Nectarine	Pitted, sliced, or cut into wedges, oiled	Medium-low	5 minutes
Nopales	Whole, peeled	High	4 minutes
Okra	Whole	Medium	5 minutes
Onions	Sliced, oiled	Medium	5 minutes
Peach	Pitted, sliced or cut into wedges, oiled	Medium	5 minutes
Pear	Peeled, cored, sliced, or cut into wedges, oiled	Medium	6 minutes
Persimmon	Sliced, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Pineapple	Peeled, cored, sliced, oiled	Medium	5 minutes
Plum	Pitted, sliced, or cut into wedges, oiled	Medium	4 minutes
Potatoes	Sliced, oiled	Medium	8 minutes
Quince (Marmelo)	Peeled, cored, sliced, or cut into wedges, oiled	Medium	5 minutes
Radicchio	Halved lengthwise, oiled	High	3 minutes
Radishes	Halved or sliced	High	1 minute
Romanesco	Broken into florets, sliced, oiled	Medium-low	8 minutes
Star fruit (Carambola)	Sliced, oiled	Medium	3 minutes
Summer squash/Zucchini	Sliced or halved if small, oiled	High	4 minutes
Sunchokes	Sliced, oiled	Medium	6 minutes
Sweet potatoes	Sliced, oiled	Medium	8 minutes
Tomatoes	Thickly sliced, oiled	High	2 minutes
Watermelon	Quartered, rind removed, sliced	Medium	4 minutes

Salt-Seared Watermelon Salad

Makes 4 servings

Watermelon has a reputation for unadulterated sweetness. In reality it is lower in sugar than any other type of melon. Interestingly, it is also the lowest in sodium, and that lack of sodium to balance its wee dose of sugar is what makes watermelon so unabashedly sweet. A few moments on a wicked hot salt block is all that’s needed to bring everything back in balance, taking watermelon from simple and sugary to vibrant and balanced.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick

¾ cup balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 crosswise center-cut slice of a large watermelon, about 1½ inches thick

¼ cup chopped fresh mint, divided

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 tablespoon pink peppercorns, crushed

1 large ripe tomato, cored and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 English cucumber, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch cubes

1 small red onion, cut into ½-inch dice

6 Kalamata olives, pitted and finely chopped

4 ounces ricotta salata, crumbled

In a small saucepan, boil the balsamic vinegar over medium heat until reduced to ¼ cup. Be careful near the end of the reduction; it has a tendency to burn. Remove from the heat and swirl in the butter; cool for 10 minutes.

Remove the green and white rind from the watermelon, then cut crosswise into quarters to make 4 wedge-shaped steaks. Put in a large zipper-lock plastic bag and pour in the reduced vinegar and 1 tablespoon of the mint leaves. Manipulate the bag to get the vinegar mixture evenly dispersed over the watermelon pieces. Press out the air, seal, and let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.

Half an hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt block on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the block for 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 10 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 10 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 450°F. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Turn the heat down to medium. Put the block on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, using grill gloves, move the block so that it is over the coals. In 10 minutes, your block will be 450°F and ready for grilling. Using grill gloves, move the block to the cooler side of the grill.

Remove the watermelon from the bag; pour any marinade remaining in the bag into a large salad bowl. Whisk the olive oil, lime juice, and pink peppercorns into the marinade.

Sear the watermelon pieces on the hot salt block for 2 minutes per side. Remove to a cutting board. Slice the wedges in half lengthwise. Cut the slices into ½-inch cubes.

Toss in the salad bowl with the tomato, cucumber, red onion, olives, and remaining 3 tablespoons of mint. Add the cheese and toss lightly. Serve immediately or refrigerate for several hours.

Salt-Block-Smoked Mushrooms with Currants and Pine Needles

Makes 4 servings

Mushrooms are vegetarian carne, the produce of choice for the knuckle-draggers among vegans who just can’t shed the vestigial craving for bold savory flavors. Mushrooms are packed with glutamate, which lends them a beefed-up umami flavor that’s hard to find outside of meat. Grilling mushrooms on salt blocks takes them where they want to go. They have a high ratio of fiber to water, so the dehydrating effects of heat and salt collapse their structure and concentrate them quickly, turning sponginess into firmness and mildness into flavor rich enough to satisfy the bone-gnawingist Neanderthal. Huddled around a fire at the mouth of a cave tucked deep in a pine forest, they probably ate this recipe. Any type of unsprayed pine or spruce needles will work. Younger needles (smaller and paler) will be tenderer.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick

¼ cup dried currants

1 cup young pine needles or fresh rosemary leaves, divided

12 ounces chanterelle mushrooms (or other wild mushrooms), cut in half lengthwise

2 shallots, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

An hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt block on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the block for 20 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 20 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 20 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 550°F. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the block on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, add a dozen more pieces of charcoal to the fire and, using grill gloves, move the block so that it is over the new coals. In 30 minutes, your block will be 550°F and ready for grilling.

While the salt block is heating, put the currants and 2 tablespoons of the pine needles in a small saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat. Wait 10 minutes and drain.

Put the remaining 14 tablespoons of pine needles onto a sheet of foil.

Toss the mushrooms and shallots with the pepper in a bowl.

When the block is hot, put the foil sheet of needles right on top of the fire (on the charcoal of a charcoal grill or directly on the heat diffusers of a gas grill).

Coat the surface of the hot block with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Scatter the chanterelles and shallots on the block and sauté until the mushrooms lose their raw look, scraping and tossing with a rigid metal spatula, about 4 minutes. Remove everything and toss with the boiled currants and pine needles and the remaining tablespoon of oil. Serve immediately.

Salt Block Latkes with Grilled-Apple Salsa

Makes 4 servings

There are two conflicting ideologies of potato pancakes: soft and creamy or crunchy and shredded. Wars have been fought and food has been thrown. This recipe falls decidedly in the crispy encampment. The hot salt underscores its aesthetics, increasing the crust of the surface while preserving the tenderness of the interior. Latkes are traditionally served with applesauce; the sweet-and-spicy grilled-fruit salsa is a much more dynamic and warlike accompaniment.

1 or 2 (8 to 10-inch) square salt blocks, at least 1½ inches thick, preferably 2

1 pound russet potatoes, scrubbed clean

2 extra-large or large eggs, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons flour or matzo meal

½ teaspoon fleur de sel

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 small yellow onions, 1 finely shredded and the other thinly sliced

2 Golden Delicious, Winesap, or Gala apples, peeled, cored, and sliced

2 jalapeño peppers, stemmed, seeded, and halved lengthwise

2 ribs celery, peeled and finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

¾ cup sour cream (optional)

Half an hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt blocks on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the blocks for 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 10 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 10 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 450°F. Turn the heat down to medium. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the blocks on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, using grill gloves, move the blocks so that they are over the coals. In 10 minutes, your blocks will be 450°F and ready for grilling. Using grill gloves, move the block to the cooler side of the grill.

While the salt blocks are heating, shred the potatoes with the coarse blade of a shredder or food processor. Immediately dump into a large bowl of cold water and swoosh around. The water will turn dirty and pink. Lift the potatoes from the water and put on a clean flat-weave towel. Gather the towel around the potatoes and wring out as much water as you can. Clean the bowl and add the shredded potatoes. Mix in the beaten eggs, flour, fleur de sel, pepper, and shredded onion. Set aside.

Cook the onion and apple slices on the hot block for 2 minutes per side. If there are too many to fit comfortably, work in batches. Remove to a cutting board when done. Cook the jalapeños for 3 minutes per side and move to the cutting board. Close the grill. Chop the apple, onion, and jalapeños finely and toss with the celery and cilantro. Set aside.

Brush the salt block with the oil. Stir up the latke batter. Fry heaping soupspoonfuls of the batter on the hot salt block, flattening the mounds so that they form pancakes of about 3 inches in diameter. Cover the grill. Brown well, about 5 minutes per side. If need be, make another batch to finish up the batter.

Serve the hot latkes with the apple salsa and sour cream, if desired.

Salt Block Baba Ghanoush

Makes about 2 cups, 6 to 8 servings

Some years ago I taught a series of salt block cooking classes on a cruise ship. I lugged 120 pounds of Himalayan salt blocks from my shop in Portland, Oregon, to a small apartment in Dubrovnik, Croatia, before lugging them to port and aboard the MS Prinsendam. The 669-foot ship listed decidedly to the starboard as the blocks were wheeled by the porter to my cabin, where they accompanied me to ports in Cyprus, Israel, Turkey, and Greece. When I disembarked in Piraeus for a week of lollygagging in Athens, I hauled two of the remaining salt blocks (the rest I had gifted to a few of the many awesome passengers I had befriended) to a sun-drenched apartment near an open-air market. This is what I made.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick or several (4 by 8 by 2-inch) salt bricks

3 garlic cloves, unpeeled

2 slices sweet onion

2 medium eggplants, about 1 pound each

3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons tahini

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Half an hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt blocks on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the blocks for 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 10 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 10 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of a block should register around 450°F. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the blocks on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, using grill gloves, move the blocks so that they are over the coals. In 10 minutes, your blocks will be 450°F and ready for grilling.

Put the garlic cloves and onion slices on the hot block, cover the grill, and cook until soft, about 2 minutes per side. Remove to a cutting board. Put the eggplants on the block, cover the grill, and cook until soft, about 30 minutes, turning every 8 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, chop the garlic and onion finely and mix in a medium mixing bowl with the lemon juice, tahini, pepper, oil, and parsley.

When the eggplants are soft, remove from the grill and cool, about 10 minutes. Cut in half lengthwise and scoop the soft flesh from the skin onto a cutting board. Chop finely and mix with the other ingredients. Let rest for 15 minutes to mingle the flavors. Will keep at room temperature for several hours or refrigerated for up to a week.

Salt-Seared Tofu BÁnh MÌ

Makes 6 servings

French colonists brought some great things to Vietnam when they came to occupy it in 1887: baguettes, pâté, and mayonnaise. They also brought Catholicism, the architectural imperialism of Auguste Henri Vildieu, and the horror known as the French romantic ballad. The one objectively good thing that has come of it is the food. The Vietnamese added fish sauce, cilantro, lime, and barbecued pork to the baguette to make bánh mì. Had the Vietnamese thought to use salt blocks and skip the meat, this is the sandwich we’d all be talking about today.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick

Tofu

1 (14-ounce) package extra-firm tofu

1 tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce

2 teaspoons dark sesame oil

2 lemongrass stalks, peeled, trimmed, and finely chopped

Dressings

¼ cup hot water

1 tablespoon sugar

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt

¼ cup rice vinegar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into fine matchsticks

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons Sriracha

Sandwich

1 (12-ounce) baguette, halved lengthwise

Spray oil

1 English cucumber, cut in half lengthwise, thinly sliced

6 radishes, thinly sliced

¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves

Half an hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt block on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the block for 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 10 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 10 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 450°F. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the block on the grill grate away from the fire, and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, using grill gloves, move the block so that it is over the coals. In 10 minutes, your block will be 450°F and ready for grilling.

While the salt block is heating, prepare the tofu by cutting it crosswise into 6 slices. Line a rimmed sheet pan with several layers of paper towels. Put the tofu slices on the towel in a single layer, top with plastic wrap, another sheet pan, and a medium-heavy weight, such as a large iron skillet or 2 large cans of tomatoes. Weight the tofu for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix the soy sauce, sesame oil, and lemongrass in a small bowl. Remove the weight, cover, and towels from the tofu. Brush the tofu with the soy sauce mixture and let rest for another 10 minutes.

To prepare the dressings, mix the hot water, sugar, and salt in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the vinegar, fish sauce, and carrot.

In a separate bowl, mix the lime juice, mayonnaise, and Sriracha.

When the salt block is hot, pat the tofu slices dry with paper towels and cook in a single layer on the hot block, with the grill lid down, for 3 minutes per side. After you flip the tofu, spray the cut sides of the bread with spray oil and put on the grill grate cut side down away from the fire. Remove everything to a platter.

To assemble the bánh mì, put the bottom of the bread on a cutting board and slather with the mayonnaise mixture. Top with a few tofu slices, followed by cucumber, radish, and cilantro. Spoon the vinegar dressing over the top and cover with the bread top. Press down on the bread to make the sandwich more compact. Cut into 6 slices with a serrated knife and serve.

Hot Salted Edamame with Sesame, Shiso, and Sichuan Pepper

Makes 6 servings

Beans are fibrous, usually requiring hours of simmering to become edible and soft, but the plump young flesh of green soybeans needs little more than a few minutes on a hot salt block to steam to tenderness. This dish can be prepared on the grill for a more robust contrast of sweet and smoke, or by placing the hot salt block on a ceramic trivet and cooking it tableside indoors alongside the rest of the meal. Or set the table next to the grill and have the best of both worlds.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick

1 pound frozen edamame in their pods, thawed

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

1 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns

1 teaspoon smoked salt

6 shiso or sesame leaves, stems removed, cut into chiffonade strips

An hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt block on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the block for 20 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 20 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 20 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 550°F. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the block on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, add a dozen more pieces of charcoal to the fire and, using grill gloves, move the block so that it is over the new coals. In 30 minutes, your block will be 550°F and ready for grilling.

While the salt block is heating, blot the edamame with paper towels until they are completely dry. Toss with the sesame oil.

Mix the sesame seeds, Sichuan peppercorns, smoked salt, and shiso in a serving bowl; set aside.

Arrange the edamame pods on the block in an even layer and cook until blistered, about 2 minutes per side, turning with tongs or a sturdy spatula. Transfer to the serving bowl. If needed, cook the edamame in batches. Toss all together and serve immediately. Everyone will peel his or her own.

Blistered Baby Peppers with Dry Harissa

Makes 4 servings

Peppers are technically a fruit, and indeed they cook just like pineapple, cherries, and oranges—the hotter and quicker, the better. Get your salt block superhot and let the combination of blistering heat and sizzling salt do its work, producing their unique union of increased tenderness and heightened flavor. Harissa, the ubiquitous hot sauce of Tunisia, is usually blended into a paste. This dried version is perfect for raising the volume of this simple sear of sweet baby bell peppers. Serve them with avocado toasts, tossed with braised collard greens or broccoli rabe, accompanying a salt-seared red snapper, as a condiment with grilled steak, or on top of the Salt-Seared Tofu Bánh Mì.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick

½ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon coriander seeds

¼ teaspoon caraway seeds

2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

¹∕8 teaspoon garlic powder

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

2 garlic cloves, peeled

24 baby bell peppers, yellow, red, and orange

1 tablespoon olive oil

Several pinches large-flake salt

An hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt block on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the block for 20 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 20 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 20 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 550°F. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the block on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, add a dozen more pieces of charcoal to the fire and, using grill gloves, move the block so that it is over the new coals. In 30 minutes, your block will be 550°F and ready for grilling.

While the salt block is heating, put a small iron skillet over medium heat. Add the cumin and coriander and stir until the spices are aromatic and lightly toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Grind in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle with the caraway and red pepper flakes. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the garlic powder and paprika; set aside.

When the salt block is hot, cook the garlic clove for 30 seconds per side. Remove from the block and chop coarsely. Put the peppers on the block in a single layer and cook until blistered and spotted with burn on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and do the same thing on the remaining sides. When done, but while still hot, toss with the oil, ground spices, and a pinch of salt. Take a taste; if the peppers have not picked up enough salinity from the block, sprinkle with some more of the salt to taste.

Salt-Stoned Bananas Foster with Rye Whiskey Caramel

Makes 4 servings

Bananas Foster, the elegant tableside confection of stodgy NOLA restaurants, is all about flare and sweetness. This grilled version is flamed just like the original, but its real allure comes from the counterpoint of salt in the searing. The natural sugars in the banana’s soft flesh caramelize and crisp and salt at the same time, so at the point you are done cooking, you have a salted-caramel banana. Drizzle them with a boozy caramel of its own, and all traces of stodginess evaporate and your smile is all that’s left.

1 (8 to 10-inch) square salt block, at least 1½ inches thick

4 bananas, peeled and halved lengthwise

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ cup packed dark brown sugar, divided

¼ cup brewed coffee or chai tea

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter

¼ cup rye whiskey

⅛ teaspoon ground Vietnamese cinnamon

1 pint vanilla ice cream

Freshly ground black pepper (cubed pepper is amazing), optional

Half an hour before you are ready to start grilling, put the salt block on an unheated gas grill. Heat the grill to low, cover the grill, and warm the block for 10 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and wait another 10 minutes. Raise it to high and wait another 10 minutes. A laser thermometer aimed at the center of the block should register around 450°F. If using charcoal, bank a chimney of red-hot charcoal briquettes to one side of the firebox. Put the block on the grill grate away from the fire and cover the grill. In 20 minutes, using grill gloves, move the block so that it is over the coals. In 10 minutes, your block will be 450°F and ready for grilling.

While the salt block is heating, brush the banana halves all over with the lemon juice and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of the brown sugar; set aside.

Bring the coffee to a boil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining 6 tablespoons brown sugar and stir until it melts. Reduce the heat to low and swirl in the butter, just until melted. When the salt block is ready, take everything except the ice cream and pepper out to the grill.

Cook the bananas on both sides on the hot block, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to the skillet. Put the skillet on the salt block and heat until the brown sugar syrup is bubbling. Using a long-handled spoon, lift some of the syrup over the tops of the bananas. Pour the rye into the skillet and stand back; the rye will ignite. Wait for it to burn out; you can douse the flame by throwing a lid on the skillet. Sprinkle the cinnamon over the bananas.

To serve, put 2 banana halves in a large bowl. Top with a scoop or two of ice cream and cover with brown sugar syrup and a sprinkling of black pepper, if using. Serve immediately.