You’ll find a lot of different crochet techniques out there in the world. If you know the basics, then feel free to jump right in and start your first project. If you are a beginner, don’t fret. I cover all the stitches in the appendix, so you can flip back and forth as needed. In this chapter, I cover the main crochet techniques that I’ve found to be the most useful and incorporate in all my patterns. I also give a bit of advice about yarns, as well as important add-ons, like plastic safety eyes and fiberfill. Finally, I explain how to prep your plaques and mount your little critters.
For most of the critter’s heads and bodies, you can use any worsted-weight yarn. Look for the symbol for yarn weight (see below) on the yarn band. I use mostly acrylic yarns, but if you prefer to work in nothing but natural fibers, they crochet up beautifully as well. The important thing is to choose a crochet hook size that combines with your yarn to create a dense fabric that completely covers the fiberfill. When I use acrylic yarn (worsted-weight size 4), I find that a size US F/5 (3.75 mm) hook works well, but when I use worsted wool (also size 4), I get better coverage with the next hook size smaller, US E/4 (3.5 mm). The final measurements of your critter may differ from mine due to your choice of yarn and hook and/or your crochet technique.
For me, other requirements are that the yarn is soft and easily slides through my fingers. It’s exciting to shop for fun colors that will give just the right amount of believability to each of your taxidermy critters. You’ll find suggestions with each of the patterns, but feel free to experiment with your own color choices.
A few of the projects, such as Little Skunk, Lazy Lion, and Krazy Koala, feature specialty yarns for details like the lion’s mane and the koala’s fuzzy-tipped ears. For Cranky Croc’s teeth, you’ll need a lighter-weight yarn, perhaps a DK (see below), and a smaller hook (US E/4, 3.5 mm) as well. You’ll find advice about all of this with the individual patterns. (For more about working with specialty yarns, see Here Comes the Fuzz.)
These are my tried-and-true techniques that I use again and again in all my patterns. See Supplies and Materials for a list of supplies.
I use this technique in every one of my patterns. Crocheting in the round is essentially working a continuous spiral of single crochet, building on top of each preceding round. Keep track by marking the end of one round and the beginning of the next with a split-ring stitch marker that you can move along as you work. This is especially important when you are making the increases and decreases that form the little guy’s shape.
Using a split ring marker
A few patterns require you to change yarn colors while crocheting. To do this, begin the last single crochet in the old color (A). When you have 2 loops on your hook, yarnover with the new color, and draw the new yarn through both loops (B). Be sure to weave both the ending and beginning tails into the wrong side of the fabric for several stitches to neaten and secure the join (see illustration). You can use this same technique if you run out of yarn and need to start a new yarn, even of the same color.
Changing the yarn color (A)
Changing the yarn color (B)
I use this technique to join two pieces of crochet work, such as the koala bear’s ears. Position the pieces to be joined with wrong sides facing each other. Thread a yarn needle with a length of matching yarn. Insert the needle through both pieces, then take the yarn over the edge and insert the needle into the next crochet stitch on the same side as your first stitch. Continue in this way until you come to the last available single crochet stitch. Pass the yarn through the last stitch to fasten off, then weave in the tail on the wrong side.
Whipstitching to join pieces
Sometimes called finishing off, this is simply how you end a row or round of crochet and secure your yarn. Slipstitch into the nearest available stitch or space (A) (see also Slipstitch). Cut the yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail, and draw the tail through the loop on the hook to fasten off (B). Thread the tail into a yarn needle and weave it in on the wrong side of the crochet fabric. In some cases, you’ll need to leave a 12-inch-long tail (or longer), which you’ll be instructed to leave unwoven and use later in the pattern to sew pieces together. Advice about this is given in each project.
Fastening off (A)
Fastening off (B)
You don’t want your critter’s head looking all sloppy, so you’ve got to weave in all those loose ends to keep it looking fresh. This is done with a yarn needle. Simply thread your tail of yarn through the needle, and then weave it in and out on the wrong side of the fabric several times until it looks neat and is secure. Trim any extra tail. Now, that looks good!
Adding eyes and noses, as well as appendages like ears, horns, and teeth, requires some patience and practice. When I first started sewing appendages onto my critters years ago, they looked pretty strange. Now, I’m a pro at it. When you’re stitching the various pieces in place, it’s important to use a good yarn needle and to keep your yarn smooth: try to maintain yarn tension that’s not too tight or too loose, and don’t mess around so much with the yarn that it starts to fray.
Each pattern specifies when to attach the eyes and noses, as well as which pieces are needed. In most cases, I sew eyes and/or eye roundies (and noses and/or nose roundies) in place before completing the critter, when the area behind these items is already partially stuffed with fiberfill. If I use plastic eyes or noses, I use only what are called “safety or craft eyes” (and noses) for all my critters. (See Plastic Eye Warning for advice about age restrictions for the use of these items.) Both safety eyes and safety noses come in a variety of sizes and shapes, many of which are intended for particular creatures, such as dogs, cats, teddy bears, and so on. These items have two pieces: the eye (or nose) itself, which is backed with a shaft, and a separate washer that you click onto the shaft to secure it.
Unassembled plastic safety eyes
Here’s how I construct the eyes on most of my critters. As backing, I crochet a small circle that I call a “roundie.” To assemble the plastic eyes and roundies, I insert the shaft of the commerical plastic eye through the roundie and into the head fabric, and then I lock the eye in place by clicking the washer onto the shaft coming through at the back of the fabric (A). To sew the edge of the roundies down, I thread a yarn needle with the long tail I left when I slipped the last stitch of the roundie. Using small backstitches, I insert the needle through each crochet stitch close to the roundie’s edge, and pull the yarn taut on the wrong side of the fabric as I work each stitch all the way around (B).
Although I use plastic safety noses for many of my critters, including the fox, deer, and bears, others don’t require plastic safety noses. The cow, giraffe, and zebra, for example, feature simple roundies as nostrils. The safety noses are assembled and secured following the same process as for eyes.
Assembling a safety eye and eye roundie (A)
Assembling a safety eye and eye roundie (B)
When you sew on the crocheted roundie (see above), be sure the safety eye is already secured through both the roundie and the head fabric with the plastic backing (washer) clicked into place. These eyes and noses rarely come out, but they can be a choking hazard to little ones, so do not use them where kiddos under the age of three will be able to get at them, and always make sure they are secure.
The ears for the raccoon, fox, and bear are crocheted as tubes that are then flattened in order to sew the bottom edges closed. All others are crocheted as flat disks, some of which are folded and shaped to create the characteristic look of the animal; a few (koala and lion, for instance) are created by sewing two flat disks together. The pattern for the flat ears is similar to that for roundies, but the ears are different diameters, depending on the animal.
For the folded style, when you have completed the crocheting and fastened off the last stitch of the disk, fold the ear in half with wrong sides together and the yarn tail in the middle of the open edge. Thread the tail through a yarn needle and whipstitch the edges together from the center of the opening to the fold, leaving the other half of the ear open. Fasten off the last stitch and draw the tail through, leaving it long so that you can use it later to stitch the ear to the head.
Tube ear
Two-piece flat disk ear
Folded disk ear
I use this technique for several of my critters: the Shy Deer, Lazy Lion, and Sleepy Octopus. It’s an easy way of creating an eyelid after the eyes are fastened in place, and I love the sleepy look it makes. Thread a yarn needle with yarn the same color as the head. Starting on the wrong side of the fabric, draw the needle up through the front as close as possible to the eye, pass the yarn over the eye to the opposite edge, and then to the back. Repeat this pass four or five times until you get the look you’re trying to achieve. Fasten off on the wrong side and weave in the yarn tail.
Sleepy-eye technique
A few of my patterns (the Under-the-Sea Creatures, for instance) call for crocheting a small hole, or “buttonhole,” to allow the dowel to peek through the fabric where the little guy will be mounted on the plaque. To create this buttonhole, crochet to the point indicated in the pattern where you need to create the hole. Instead of continuing single crochet stitches, skip 2 or 3 stitches (A), as indicated by the pattern, then make the same number of chains as the skipped stitches (B). When you come to the chains in the following row or round, single chain 2 or 3 stitches (per pattern) in the space made by the chain (ch-space) to bring you back to the original number of stitches in the row or round.
Making a buttonhole (A)
Making a buttonhole (B)
I like to use specialty yarn, such as eyelash yarn or faux fur yarn, for some of my critters. You can see it in Lazy Lion’s mane, Krazy Koala’s fuzzy ears, and the Little Skunk’s stripe. This technique requires a little bit of primping or fluffing during and after the process. I typically use a smaller hook as well to help keep a tight grip on my yarn. The fuzz is very thin and super slippery, and sometimes it’s hard to see where you’re actually crocheting. Although specialty yarn is labeled bulky, I find it easier to use a smaller hook, such as a US D/3 (3.25 mm) or E/4 (3.5 mm), to help aid my grip when pulling the thin yarn through the stitches.
Work in your specialty yarn a single crochet stitch at a time (A), hand fluffing along the way (B). It’s helpful to keep your critter’s head in your lap so that you can hold it with one hand and fluff up the fuzz with the other. Most craft stores sell special brushes for this purpose, but I prefer to use my hands.
Adding the lion's mane (A)
Adding the lion's mane (B)
I use my hands or, occasionally, my crochet hook, to push and pull the polyester fiberfill into place so that the critter is firm. In the long run, I find it easiest to stuff my critter’s heads as I crochet, and you’ll find my suggestions about when to begin stuffing in the instructions for each project. There’s really not just a single way to do it, however, so use whatever technique you find works best for you.
When you’re finishing up the crochet, one of the last steps is to insert the predrilled dowel into the hole and then completely close the fabric around it. (For instructions on how to prepare the dowel rods, see Cutting Your Dowel Rods.) When you insert the dowel, make sure to position it so that the screw hole is facing out, peeking through the little hole you created. It is also important to ensure that the end of the dowel is flush with the back of the critter’s head. This is so that you won’t run into problems centering the head when you screw the critter to the plaque. You may need to add more fiberfill around the dowel after inserting it into the opening. You’ll find a reminder of this step with each pattern along with instructions for closing the hole.
Inserting the dowel
Closing up around the dowel
Once your head is complete, you’re ready for the final step in creating your very own taxidermy critter: preparing your plaque and mounting your critter on it. (See supply list.)
Before you jump right into drilling holes through your plaque and staining it, you may want to set up an area with a worktable, some scrap wood, and a vise or clamp to hold the scrap piece of wood in place. I have a designated area where I do all my precutting and predrilling. The scrap piece of wood has saved my furniture and worktable many times.
Once you have your space set up, gather your tools and supplies: the plaque, fine-grained sandpaper or sandblock, stain and foam craft brushes, 15⁄8-inch Grip-Rite drywall screws, and both a Phillips-head bit and a 7/64 wood drill with a countersink bit. (You need only one screw for each head.) It’s very important that your drill bit matches the size and type of your drywall screws, because if it doesn’t, you may have some issues getting your critter’s head screwed on correctly.
If you’re using a cordless (battery operated) drill, make sure it’s all charged up and ready to go. You may also want to supply yourself with a drop cloth, smock or apron, and old clean T-shirts to protect you and your surroundings from spills.
To mount the head on the plaque, you need either a 11⁄4- or 2-inch diameter dowel rod and a saw to cut it. You’ll also need a hammer and picture hanger to attach your taxidermy critter on the wall. (You’ll find specifications for the dowel sizes required along with the list of other supplies and materials needed with each pattern.)
I always like to stain my plaques, as well as precut and predrill my dowel rods, before I jump into crocheting my critters. For one thing, drying time can take a few days based on weather. Also, you’ll be anxious to mount your critter’s head as soon as you finish it, and it will be anticlimactic if you can’t. Regardless of what you decide to do first, here’s how to proceed, along with a few tips and tricks that I have learned along the way.
Before staining your plaque, remove any stickers that are on it. This sometimes takes a little finesse and patience. Even if the stickers are on the back only, I peel them off so that I can stain the back as well as the front, because I think they just look nicer and more professional that way. If you’re not concerned about staining the back of your plaque, you can skip this step. It’s totally your call. You may also notice that your plaque needs to be sanded a tad as well. I like to use a fine-grain sandpaper or sandblock for this step.
After all the rough edges are smoothed out, make sure you wipe the surface thoroughly with a cloth towel or old cotton T-shirt to get rid of any debris on the plaque before you stain it.
I use the same color and type of stain for all of my plaques so that they look consistent. If you are planning on mounting and hanging a group of critters together on a wall, you may want to take this into account. I have tried many different types of stain, but my favorite brand and shade is Minwax’s English Chestnut 233. I’ve also used white spray paint, and it looked amazing. (See The Spray Paint Option, below.)
I have a designated area where I stain my plaques, and I always use a drop cloth and wear a smock; I’ve found stain splatters in the weirdest places. I prefer to use foam craft brushes rather than regular paintbrushes, as I can discard a foam brush after a few uses, and no messy clean up is required. Make sure you shake your can of stain thoroughly before opening the lid. Whether you use stain or spray paint, make sure you are working in a well-ventilated area.
I begin by staining all the sides and corners of my plaque, as the wood absorbs more of the stain in those areas. It’s good practice to use less stain, rather than dip your whole brush in the can and slap it on. Feel free to practice on a scrap piece of wood first. You can always wipe off any excess stain with an old cotton T-shirt, if necessary. After covering the sides and corners, I then work on the front of the plaque. I try to use even strokes and go in the same direction as the grain. When you are finished, let the stain dry. This could take a few hours or up to a day, depending on the weather. If you have a fan, let it blow over the plaque for faster drying time.
Once the top is completely dry (make sure it’s not tacky), flip it over and stain the back.
I like to stain a bunch of plaques at one time. I recommend doing this if you’re planning on making all (or many) of the critters in the book. It’s the least fun thing to do, and if you’re going do it, you might as well just get them all done at once. Check each project for the size of the plaque you will need.
Staining the plaque
If you decide to use spray paint, I recommend using a matte rather than a glossy finish. Matte finishes tend to be less reflective, whereas I feel that a glossy one can distract from the critter itself. Also, a matte finish doesn’t show the defects in the wood as much, which can be a big deal.
The next step is to cut the dowel rods to fit the project you’re making. It would be ideal to have a tablesaw or jigsaw for cutting these guys, but you can always use a good old-fashioned woodsaw, hacksaw, or coping saw. You’ll be measuring and cutting pieces about 1 inch long from either a 11⁄4- or a 2-inch-diameter dowel rod. You can get a lot of 1-inch pieces out of one 48-inch rod! If you’re using a hacksaw, this can take awhile. You may want to use a clamp or a vise to hold your rod while you saw away. Don’t worry if the pieces aren’t exactly 1 inch long, but do try to make sure to cut them straight across, so that the heads won’t be crooked when you mount them.
Three patterns in this book are for birds with long necks. For these birds, I use the smaller 11⁄4-inch-diameter dowel rod, cut about 2 inches long. It’s very important to cut these dowels evenly, because if you don’t, the birds are likely to have super-croooked necks when you mount them.
After you cut all the pieces needed for your critters, you need to predrill them. This saves a lot of time and heartache down the road. You can position the precut dowel lengthwise in a clamp or vise to hold it steady while you use your drill or place it flat on your worktable with a piece of scrap wood underneath to protect the surface. Use the 7⁄64 countersink drill bit to hit each dowel right in the center, drilling all the way through from end to end.
Once I’ve prepared all the wood pieces as described above, I like to dust them off and store them in a ziplock bag that’s easy to get into when needed.
Because the Monumental Moose is quite large, it requires a very large dowel to be mounted. For this project only, you’ll need a short length of 1" × 6" pine board to cut your own dowel. Be sure to purchase pine: it’s much softer than most other woods on the market, and it’s therefore easier to cut and drill through. Use a coffee can or an old CD to trace a circle onto the wood. In a perfect world, you would use a jigsaw to cut this puppy out, but instead you can use your handy coping saw for the job. This may take some patience, but my momma always told me, “Good things come to those who wait.” You may need to use a vise or a clamp to hold it in place while you cut. After it’s cut, hit it up with some sandpaper or a sanding block to smooth out the rough edges. Then go ahead and predrill it as described for the other dowels.
I mount the majority of my critters’ heads dead center in the middle of the plaque, although a few, such as the Colossal Squid, Cute Cuttlefish, and Jiggly Jellyfish, are mounted a little bit above center. Mark the place where you want to mount your head, and using your wood drill bit, drill into the plaque from the back side through to the front. Next, switch to your Phillips-head bit, and drill the drywall screw into place from the back side through to the front.
To attach the critter’s head to the plaque, hold the plaque in one hand and the critter’s head in the other, and then screw the predrilled dowel you inserted at the back of the head onto the drywall screw that you drilled into the plaque. Screw the head all the way on by hand so that it’s not only tight but also aligned the way you want it on the plaque. It’s perfectly fine to use your Phillips-head screwdriver to tighten the screw from the back, if necessary. Don’t worry about mushing the head with your hands, as you can reshape it to get it to look the way you want after it’s mounted.
Drilling the screw hole through the dowel
Drilling the drywall screw into the plaque
Screwing the head onto the plaque
Once the head is screwed onto the plaque and not going anywhere, decide whether to hang it vertically or horizontally so that you can attach the wall hook. This is kind of tricky because the head makes it so you can’t lay your plaque flat. To make this step possible, position the plaque so that its top lies flat on your table or workbench and the head hangs over the side. Lightly hammer the picture hook into the back side of your plaque. Sometimes the wood is so soft that you can push the picture hanger through with just your thumbs; if you use a hammer, it should take only a few gentle whacks. Voilà! Your taxidermy critter is finished, and all you have to decide is where you are going to hang it.
Attaching the hook to the back of the plaque
