Decorating with Plants

Lemongrass

The tropical fountain of this Asian cooking staple rivals many ornamental grasses in appearance and carries a citrusy fragrance to boot. Use the tender green base of the stem in stir-fries and curries or infuse leaves for tea. With a preference for direct light, lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) makes an exotic addition to a sunny windowsill; ensure that the soil remains damp but not soggy. Harvest regularly to promote new growth, and if you find yourself with more than you know what to do with, dry or freeze it to always have some on hand.

Thyme

Greeks burned thyme as a tribute to their gods, and medieval warriors believed that bathing in it would bestow courage. Pictured here is golden variegated lemon thyme (Thymus × citriodorus ‘Aureus’), but there are more than sixty varieties and counting, so choose one that appeals to you. Thyme is a natural partner for vegetable and chicken dishes; it gives a refreshing lift to a pot of tea; and, when crushed, its oils make for a quick and easy homemade mosquito repellant. Give the plant direct sun or at least six hours of bright light each day, and water when the top inch (2.5 cm) of soil dries out.

Basil

We all know basil is the perfect partner for juicy tomatoes. The ubiquitous green variety is often found for sale at grocery stores in both bundles and as growing plants. This blue variety—African blue basil (Ocimum kilimandscharicum)—may not be found at your local grocery, but it is worth seeking out for its deep violet blooms and striking stems. It does best in direct light and should be kept away from drafts in winter months. Keep the soil moist but not soggy, and be sure to plant in a pot with a drainage hole.

Oregano

The Greeks referred to both oregano (Origanum vulgare) and marjoram (Origanum majorana) as “joy of the mountain.” In Greek mythology, Aphrodite created oregano as a symbol of happiness. Its pungent, peppery essence intensifies when it is dried (see tips on drying your herbs). For optimal growth, let the direct sun hit the plant and water only when the soil feels dry to the touch.

More Edible Plants That Can Thrive Indoors

• Arabian coffee (Coffea arabica)

• Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)

• Culinary sage (Salvia officinalis)

• Curry leaf (Murraya koenigii)

• Ginger root (Zingiber officinale)

• Marjoram (Origanum morjorana)

• Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)

• Peppermint (Mentha × piperita)

• Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

• Sweet bay laurel (Laurus nobilis)

• Turmeric (Curcuma longa)

• Watercress (Nasturtium officinale)

Whether you are starting with just a single plant or are a culinary master who wants a wide range of flavors at your fingertips, here are a few simple ways to grow and store herbs in your kitchen.

Stage

To house your herbs the easy way, keep them in their grow pots and stage them in a decorative cachepot. The box shown at left, made by Smith & Hawken, fits three 4-inch (10 cm) grow pots perfectly and is outfitted with a tray to catch any extra water. The blue bowl (from Heath Ceramics) is home to a strawberry plant. Pop pots in and out as the seasons change—or as culinary inspiration strikes!

Hang

Repurpose an old kitchen standby, the multitiered fruit basket, into your own hanging herb garden. Pair with inexpensive terra-cotta pots, painted in the colors of your choosing as an added upgrade. Pictured here is a mix of mint, thyme, and sage (top tier) and a combination of basil and oregano (bottom tier). Grown more for looks than flavor, ‘Kent Beauty’ oregano is the perfect hanging plant, as it offers up pendulous flowers with a profuse fragrance.

Cut

After buying fresh-cut herbs at the market, give the bottoms of the stems a fresh snip, fill a vase with cool water, and place the herbs inside. Remove any leaves that are underwater to help keep the water clear. This multimouthed vase allows you to separate each herb into its own slot rather than wrestle with a hodgepodge of greens. Although this storage method is more temporary than keeping a potted plant, cut herbs can stay fresh for a week or more if you change the water often and keep them out of direct sun—and during this time, they will fill your kitchen with their alluring fragrances!

Dry

Give cut herbs a longer life—and add a colorful display to your kitchen wall—by hanging them to dry. Bundle and hang herbs upside down for a few weeks, then store in an airtight container out of direct light and use within a few months (their flavor will gradually fade). Pictured here is oregano (top row) and (bottom row, from left to right) mint, rosemary, red chile pepper, white sage, and lavender. If you’d like to keep the herbs on display, I find that oregano, sage, and thyme dry more beautifully than rosemary and basil. The “drying rack” shown here is actually a simple wooden dish rack.

If space is tight, or you just want to add a bit of interest to your walls, here are two ways to elevate your potted plants. They will be heavy, especially after they’ve been watered, so make sure that whatever hanging style you select, you drill into a stud or use a wall anchor.

Wall Hook

This vintage “woven” metal cachepot is the perfect foil to the large, simple shapes of Hoya obovata planted in a simple terra-cotta pot. The pretty copper hook it’s hanging from is from Terrain, but you could easily paint a generic hardware-store hook whatever tone you’d like. After installing your hook, measure the radius of the pot you’d like to hang (the length from the center to one of its edges) and compare that to the distance from the end of the hook to the wall to be sure there is enough clearance. Care tip: If you’re often sautéing on your stovetop, your plants may soon bear a layer of kitchen grime. Keep them clean by gently wiping them occasionally with a damp, soft rag.

Loop Hanger

This iron loop hanger (readily available in garden sections of hardware stores) conjures up images of brightly colored pelargoniums hanging en masse on the side of an old French farmhouse. But who says it has to be used outside? To complete the rustic vibe, plant your specimen in a simple terra-cotta pot. Here the Swedish ivy (Plectranthus ciliatus) was kept in its original grow pot and placed into the terra-cotta container (which was itself lined in plastic) to prevent dirty water from dripping onto the counter after watering.

If your kitchen doesn’t get much direct light, fear not! There are still plenty of fabulous plants that can liven up your shelf. Choose a few that are right for you, then brighten up the display by potting them in white and neutral-toned vessels. Avoid overcrowding the shelves—an airy, spare arrangement will help the space feel open and light. Here are a few low-light-friendly plants to consider.

1. Ivy: Almost any ivy can handle low-light conditions. Some, like this ‘Teardrop’ English ivy variety (Heldera helix ‘Teardrop’), like to crawl and may stick to nearby surfaces. Let some strands dangle to add movement to your shelf. Ivies are generally easy to care for, but they do require some humidity. Solid green varieties like this one are known to grow more easily indoors, but they come in yellow and white variegated leaf patterns as well.

2. Low-Light Fern: Ferns are thought to have been among the first plants on earth. Their low-maintenance nature and adaptability mean they’re still easily found today. Unlike most plants, which reproduce using flowers and seeds, ferns create more ferns via spores on the undersides of their fronds. This blue star fern (Phlebodium aureum) is laid-back—just keep it moist and it will be happy.

3. Marimo: Native to cool lake bottoms, marimo (Aegagropila linnaei ) prefer low light. For a kitchen-specific twist, plop one in a spice jar–turned-aquarium! Change the water every few weeks and give the ball a gentle squeeze periodically to help maintain its round shape.

4. Baby Rubber Plant: The name baby rubber plant is a misnomer for Peperomia obtusifolia: this member of the peperomia family is not a rubber plant at all and is more closely related to the black pepper plant. Pictured here is P. obtusifolia ‘Marble’, whose thick, upright stems hold large marbled leaves that eventually take on a bushy appearance. It thrives in moderate to bright light but like all peperomia is extremely forgiving and will take lower light with ease. Allow the soil to dry between waterings.

Orchids are incredible plants—they come in so many fun colors, and some bloom for a month or more. This apricot-peach-pink Surf Song orchid (a relative of the phalaenopsis orchid) looks like a vibrant tropical sunset. Combine this stunner with a mix of supporting foliage (all kept in their original grow pots). Disassemble the planter once the orchid blooms fade or if the succulent grows leggy, reaching for more light. Otherwise, keep the plants together for a long-lasting foliage arrangement.

1. Lay out the plants, each in its original grow pot, and ensure that your bowl is bigger than the group of plants to be placed inside (grow pots are usually made of flexible plastic, so you can squish them a bit to fit them in).

2. Decide where the bowl will live. If it will be seen from all sides, arrange the plants accordingly. If, however, it will be seen from only one angle, beef up that side and let the unseen area be plain. Set the orchid first, then tuck in other plants around it to fill out the arrangement. If you are using a watertight plastic bowl, prevent extra water from swimming around the bottom by placing each grow pot inside an individual plastic liner before fitting it inside the container. As you work, stabilize the arrangement inside the bowl with Bubble Wrap.

3. Once you’re happy with your composition, fill in any remaining spaces with Bubble Wrap. Add a layer of moss to cover the plastic pots. Water each plant carefully and separately—the succulent, for example, requires less watering than the nerve plant.

Pot-et-fleur, a style of flower arranging fashionable in the Victorian era, features houseplants that are combined with cut flowers and foliage to create spectacular, ever-changing centerpieces. For this wintery pot-et-fleur arrangement, the singular stalk of a blooming hippeastrum keeps company with a mix of foraged stems. Head into the woods to find a few branches from a woody shrub (these will be stronger and easier to jam into the soil) as well as some greenery, ideally specimens that will dry well. Shown here are stems of heavenly bamboo, which will get a bit “crunchy” over time but should hold up until the hippeastrum has finished blooming (if you're willing to be patient, the bulb will rebloom—see instructions).Holiday greens such as pine and cedar are also good options and are readily available for purchase in November and December if foraging isn’t an option.

1. To prevent leaks, add waterproof lining to the bottom of your chosen vessel. Then position the hippeastrum in the vessel, keeping it in its original grow pot.

3. Prep your greenery by removing the leaves from the bottom few inches (7.5 cm) of each stem, then tuck them into the soil around the bulb of your hippeastrum. Add the branches to create height in the arrangement.

While most plants acquire nutrients through their roots, carnivorous plants have developed techniques to lure insects into their “pitchers,” trap them with their sticky pads, and suck them down their slippery leaves. As the insects decay, the plant soaks up all their nutrients. Sounds like a science project, huh? The Venus flytrap is certainly the most famous carnivorous plant, but there are other bizarre and beautiful specimens that make for prehistoric-looking, practical displays as well.

1. Monkey Cups

Monkey cups (Nepenthes spp.) are naturally found in tropical rain-forest canopies, where they catch water and bugs from the sky (and where monkeys can enjoy a drink from their pitchers—thus their funny name). These plants love humidity and should be kept damp at all times. Unlike their sun-loving carnivorous companion the pitcher plant (see below), they do not like direct sun.

2. Pitcher Plant

Pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp.; left) can be found in both short varieties that grow to just a few inches (7.5 cm) high and taller ones that can reach up to 30 inches (76 cm). Pair your pest controller with another hardworking kitchen favorite, an Arabian coffee plant (Coffea arabica; right). With patience and a whole lot of light, these evergreen plants will produce raw coffee beans (in three to five years).

3. Sundew

The sundew (Drosera spp.) is a bog plant and prefers a wet environment. Here pebbles and moss were added to polish off the top attractively. Place the sundew in a bright place and keep it moist, and this wondrous kitchen companion will lure fruit flies and other pests and wow your family and friends.

Even the narrowest of windowsills can hold a few plants and bring life to your kitchen. Remember, though, that this area is often susceptible to the outside environment—winters can be cold and drafty, and summers can get quite hot. Move your friends out of these extremes as needed.

Low-Light Stunners

This lineup of tried-and-true low-light plants gets extra zing from an eclectic mix of containers in varying materials and shapes. The tallest specimens are housed in mugs of roughly matching heights (at far left, a ZZ plant; center, a spear sansevieria). A pair of short ceramic saltcellars was repurposed to hold a ‘Red Ripple’ peperomia (second from left) and haworthia (far right)—the plants themselves were placed at a slant to match the containers’ profiles. The only “real” pot here is a teeny-tiny vessel holding a teeny-tiny ivy (second from right).

Mix-and-Match Sunny Succulents

A brightly lit windowsill calls for a wild menagerie of succulents. If space is at a premium, gather your favorites into a single mug—pictured here are watch chain, variegated corncob cactus, ‘Lola’ echeveria, thimble cactus, and Siebold’s stonecrop. The plants’ muted tones mean the variety of shapes and textures is the focus. Keep your collection growing by plucking or snipping any offshoots—simply set them on some soil to root and watch them thrive.

Most fruits and vegetables require too much space or sunlight to successfully grow indoors, but both microgreens and sprouts are great options for your own indoor vegetable patch! They need very little space to grow, and they are easy and superfast to harvest. In a matter of days, you’ll have a nutrition-packed snack growing right on your kitchen counter.

Microgreens

Think of microgreens as mini versions of your favorite veggies—they are the first shoots and tiny leaves that grow from the vegetables’ seeds. They are packed with vitamins and minerals—up to forty times more than their mature selves—and have a stronger flavor than sprouts. A wide range of vegetables can be enjoyed as delicious microgreens, including broccoli, kale, radish, and garden peas (pictured here). The directions below are specifically for pea shoots, but many microgreens are grown similarly.

1. Pick up a microgreen seed packet at your local plant nursery or natural foods store or online. Soak the seeds in water for twenty-four hours in a cool place.

2. Scatter the seeds over a container of moist potting mix, water very lightly, and cover with a thin layer of soil.

3. Cover with plastic wrap or a plastic tray to keep the soil warm and encourage germination. Remove once shoots become visible.

4. After three days, shoots will appear. Remove the cover and water daily. Shoots will bend toward the light, so rotate the tray to keep the crop straight.

5. When the new growth reaches 4 to 8 inches (10 to 20 cm) tall, have two sets of leaves per shoot, and are about to topple, it’s time to harvest. (This usually happens ten to twenty days after sowing.) To harvest, cut the stems just above the soil line, rinse, and use immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to three days. They sometimes regrow, especially if planted in a larger container.

Sprouts

As with microgreens, there are many types of sprouts—the germinated seeds of a wide variety of foods, including legumes, grains, nuts, and more. Wheat berries (pictured here) are chewy and nutty and make a great addition to salads and soups. They grow in low-light, moist environments and don’t require any soil. Best of all, they’ll be ready to eat in just four to six days. Here’s how to grow your own:

1. Select a seed packet from a local plant nursery or natural foods store or online. Place 4 tablespoons of dry sprout seeds in a bowl and rinse until the water runs clear.

2. Add enough water to cover the seeds by 1 inch (2.5 cm) and let soak for eight to twelve hours in a cool place.

3. Pour off the soaking water and gently rinse the seeds with room-temperature water. Pour the seeds into a sprouter (a special device for germinating grains); alternatively, place seeds inside a clean quart-size glass jar, cover with cheesecloth, and secure the cloth with a rubber band. Allow excess water to drain out. If you are using a jar, you may want to place it at a 45-degree angle when pouring out the excess water, then hold it upside down for a few minutes to ensure that all excess water is removed.

4. Rinse the sprouts at least twice daily with room-temperature water, draining out the water each time.

5. Sprouts are ready to eat when they are 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) long (usually four to six days after starting). Rinse one more time, ensure that they are dry to the touch (use a salad spinner or pat dry with a clean dish towel or paper towels), and store them in the refrigerator. They should keep, refrigerated, for up to a week.