The perfect companion for the hands-off trendsetter
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Moderate to bright
Soil
Not required
Watering
See box, below
Fertilizer
Use every few months, only in spring and summer
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop
Tillandsias, or air plants, are members of the bromeliad family and include more than five hundred different species of epiphytes, plants that anchor onto other plants and outcrops, absorbing rainfall and nutrients with their leaves. This unique trait has enabled them to flourish across a spectrum of environments, from dense rain forests to stark sand dunes.
Hailing from the sun-soaked tree trunks of Mexico, Guatemala, and El Salvador, Tillandsia xerographica, pictured here, is (as the name suggests) one of the xerophytic air plants. Efficient at soaking up limited moisture and nutrients from the air, xerophytes’ trichomes (the scales and hairs on the leaves) give the plants a white or silvery flocked appearance and help reflect the harsh rays of the sun. Its leaves wrap and twist as it grows, giving it a similar appearance to Tillandsia streptophylla but with greener, velvety leaves sprouting from a longer stem. Drier conditions and shadier locations will cause tighter coils to form. These air plants are perfect for display on windowsills and shelves where their silver ripples can cascade. See more air plants (including a much smaller T. xerographica) on Air Plants and A Clean and Clear Desktop.
How to Water Your Air Plants
There are three ways to water air plants: misting, dunking, and soaking. Choose a method that works with your schedule. You can mist daily, and supplement with a good soak occasionally. Go one step further by dunking your plant under a running tap or showerhead for a few seconds once a week. If you’re often on the go, soak every ten days or so in cool tap water for up to a couple of hours. Rid plants of excess water by gently shaking them before returning them to their home. Note that naturally humid environments will call for less frequent watering.
A South American native shows off a festival of colors
The Basics
Care Level
Moderate
Light
Moderate to bright
Soil
Peat moss mix
Watering
Let dry between waterings; water less in winter; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Cool to warm
SIZE
Tabletop
This bromeliad’s species name, nutans, is Latin for “nodding” and refers to the pendant clusters that hang from its bright pink stalks. These unroll to present royal blue petals with elongated canary-yellow stamens.
Bromeliads are a diverse family of tropical plants made up of more than three thousand species. They’re a tribe of many forms and functions, from epiphytic specimens like air plants to terrestrial earth stars (see A Pop of Color). Pineapples are even a part of this gang!
Billbergia nutans, or queen’s tears (pictured above), is native to Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina and is one of the easiest to care for in the clan. It should be watered directly in the center of its rosette. Be careful when handling—the plant’s long, saw-toothed leaves stack to form rosettes up to 15 inches (38 cm) high, and it can deliver a prickly bite. Its main virtue is its arching flower stalk, which explodes in a whole carnival of colors.
If this vibrant display isn’t enough to entice, bromeliads have one more quality that’s sure to win you over: they are prolific at producing offsets, called pups. Replant pups when they reach a third of the size of the parent plant (waiting for them to grow to this size will allow roots to develop more successfully). Remove the entire plant from its planter and, using a sharp knife, cut the pups off as close to the parent plant as possible, retaining a good hunk of roots. Replant a group of pups in a small pot filled with peat moss mix, place in a bright area, and keep the soil evenly moist. Ideally, the pup will have roots when you remove it. If it doesn’t, don’t panic—roots will eventually form; in the meantime, support the plant with wooden sticks. (Resist the temptation to push the pup deeper into the potting medium, as this can rot the base of the plant; 1 inch/2.5 cm or less is plenty, with support.) Move to an area of moderate light once mature. Find other varieties of bromeliads.
A mutant stowaway that has stood the test of time
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Moderate
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average to cool
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
The best things sometimes happen by accident, and this fern is no exception. Descended from a mutation of a swordfern, the Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata, also known as the Boston swordfern) was so named because it was reportedly discovered on a ship to Boston in 1890. Thanks to its showstopping frilly green fronds (which can reach an impressive 3 feet/1 m in length), it was soon a quintessential feature of Victorian parlors; it later became a bohemian mainstay, filling macramé planters throughout the 1960s, and it continues to hang elegantly from baskets, pedestals, and pots in homes today.
This fern’s fast-growing nature means you can cultivate a statement piece relatively quickly. (Opt for dwarf varieties if space is an issue; otherwise, these specimens will soon be demanding expansive real estate.) With its thirst for humidity, the Boston fern often thrives when kept in a bathroom. If it doesn’t receive enough moisture, it will soon drop a full frond’s worth of leaflets, so it can be a messy houseguest if neglected. But don’t worry—it is durable and bounces back relatively quickly once moisture levels are restored. For ways to increase humidity. See more ferns.
See the green plastic rim on the inside of this ceramic vase? That’s the plant’s original grow pot. For an oh-so-easy plant display, simply pop your plant, grow pot and all, into a more stylish vessel for an instant upgrade. See Potting Your Plant to learn more.
A graceful plant with endless blooms
The Basics
Care Level
Moderate
Light
Bright to moderate
Soil
Peat moss mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist to slightly dry; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use every few weeks, only in spring and summer
Temperature
Cool to average
SIZE
Tabletop
Cape primroses (Streptocarpus hybrid) are found in wooded ravines in South Africa, where they lie lapping up dappled sunlight. With crinkled leaves and luminous floral sprays, they’re a great choice for areas of your home in need of enlivening. Their year-round, trumpet-shaped flowers—in purples, pinks, whites, and lavenders—offer a cheery antidote to short winter days and a happy encouragement of long summer nights.
The deep green color of their gently curved, rather large wrinkly leaves is enhanced in low light (avoid direct light, which can scorch them). Occasionally pluck older leaves and snip faded flower stems to ensure that your primrose stays tidy throughout the year. While they’re relatively easygoing, these plants have rather particular watering requirements. Avoid letting water touch the leaves, which can cause staining; instead, water below the leaf level, directly on the soil, or give a soak from below. Keep soil constantly, lightly moist in spring and summer. You can let it get less moist in winter, but it should never be completely dry. If you’ve got the heat on high during the winter, or you live in a hot, dry climate, add a gravel tray below your planter (see Humidity) not only to give the primrose’s endless blooms a stage but also to maintain much-needed humidity. To try your hand at propagating the Cape primrose, simply cut a leaf and stick it back into the pot it came from. It will root—if you don’t let it dry out!
A hard worker with style to spare
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Moderate to low
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist; water less in winter
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
Dracaena fragrans comes in many interesting colorways, from the enticing yellow and green stripes of ‘Dorado’ (top) to the white swirls of ‘Malaika’ (middle) and the refreshing stripes of ‘Lemon Lime’ (bottom and above). For a solid hit of color, choose the bright lime green of ‘Limelight’, as seen here.
Dracaenas (also known as false palms, corn plants, or cane trees) are incredibly versatile—smaller specimens often adorn desks and tabletops, while larger plants add a pop of light in darker corners. An all-green version (‘Janet Craig’) is a common find, but there are so many more interesting varieties to choose from!
All of the plants pictured opposite are the same variety, Dracaena fragrans ‘Lemon Lime’. Wonder why one grouping has long trunks and the other is more compact? Growers in Hawaii and other warm climates use a unique propagation method to create the different heights you see here: First, they remove the top section of a mature tall dracaena, cutting just below the leaf line and taking care to include nodes (the points where leaves or buds attach to the stem), as this is where the new plant will form roots. Then they place the new cutting in a mix of soil and perlite or put it in a vase of water, making sure the water covers the nodes but remains below the leaves. Once the cutting has rooted, the growers transplant the cutting to a grow pot to let it increase in size. This creates a planting like the one on the right. After the growers have removed the crown, there remains a bare trunk arising from the soil. New shoots will eventually form from the cut edge. In the case of the three-trunked dracaena planting pictured opposite (left), the growers planted three rooted trunks (each cut off at a different height) in one pot—it looks like it was grown together, but really it was planted that way. If you’re an experimental gardener, try this at home. (I suggest rooting your cutting in water, as it’s rewarding to watch the roots develop.) Keep curious pets away, as this exotic plant is toxic to cats and dogs.
Bring the outside in with this garden favorite
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Low to bright
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist in spring and summer; let dry slightly between waterings in fall and winter
Fertilizer
Use monthly, only in spring and summer
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
Originally discovered in 1910 tucked away in a garden in Nantes, France, fatshedera (× Fatshedera lizei) is something of a botanical anomaly. Whereas most hybrids are created between species in the same genus, this marvel inherited its offbeat features from cross-pollination between two genera in the Araliaceae family, the upright Japanese aralia (Fatsia japonica) and the sprawling vines of English ivy (Hedera helix), making it a bigeneric hybrid. Finding itself somewhere between a climber and a shrub, this plant (tellingly called tree ivy) has a bit of an identity crisis.
Left to its own devices, it will grow in a drunken upright fashion before slouching over. However, given some attention with a pair of sharp clippers, it soon becomes extremely compliant and can quickly be trained into elegant columns and topiary. For a bushier appearance, clip straggly branches back before new growth appears in spring. Choose your desired height and cut the stems off at a 45-degree angle. Provide the ivy with a supporting trellis and it will reward you with a courteous espalier of star-shaped leaves (see an example).
The ability of this plant to grow in the shade makes it a prime candidate for rooms that are otherwise devoid of plant life. Because tree ivy lacks the aerial roots of traditional ivy, you can safely use it to screen and conceal undesirable objects without running the risk of damaging your walls. Pictured here is the ‘Angyo Star’ fatshedera (× Fatshedera lizei ‘Angyo Star’), a standout for its unusual creamy-edged, waxy leaves.
There’s a new fig in town
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Moderate to bright
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Let dry slightly between waterings; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
If you prefer a wilder, more natural style, pick out a bushy (non-topiaried) variety like the ‘Alii’ ficus shown here. Simply remove the supporting stakes and let it grow free.
Similar to its beloved cousin Ficus lyrata but newer to the scene, ‘Alii’ ficus (F. maclellandii ‘Alii’) is sure to become a design-magazine darling, brightening rooms with its tropical flair. Known also as ‘Alii’ fig, saber ficus, and banana-leaf ficus, this remarkable plant doesn’t exist in the wild—it is a cultivar developed in Hawaii (Ali‘i indicates royalty in the Hawaiian language). It’s a name befitting a plant that holds itself with both form and splendor.
This regal fig is available in a range of sizes, reaching up to 7 feet (2.1 m) or more indoors. Use smaller plants to decorate work areas or a large tree to make a statement in an open space. As it grows (ever so slowly), help it take on a symmetrical topiary-like form by removing lower leaves and nurturing its lollipop-esque shape by rotating the plant each week so that all sides receive an even dose of light. Keep new growth healthy by feeding the plant with fertilizer, spring through fall, at half strength. It will also begin to unveil a smooth gray bark. Multiple trunks are sometimes braided for added panache; in the case of the ficus shown opposite, a single trunk was manipulated to create a corkscrew-like form. This is achieved by twisting the young supple trunk around a form and letting it mature. When it is time to be sold, the form is removed, revealing a self-supporting spiraled trunk. Weeping branches hold rich green glossy leaves and—unlike their prodigal relation the weeping fig (F. benjamina)—they’re a welcome addition to any room as they won’t go scattering their assets around if moved or deprived of enough light. As with any true royal, ‘Alii’ ficus is always paparazzi-ready and instantly makes guests feel welcome.
Before you run out and buy a vessel for your plant, see what you’ve got on hand. A hurricane lamp, like this one from Campo de’ Fiori, makes for a striking twist on the conventional pot and shows off the beauty of the entire bulb.
A bright bloomer for the holidays and beyond
The Basics
Care Level
Moderate
Light
Moderate to bright
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep slightly moist
Fertilizer
Use monthly
Temperature
Varies by growth stage (see right)
SIZE
Tabletop
Though commonly called an amaryllis, this indoor flower is actually a hybrid of hippeastrum. It bursts with color each winter and rivals the poinsettia for most-recognized holiday bloom. That said, it can actually flower well past the winter season—it all depends on when you plant it. Sold as dormant bulbs, budding stems, or flowering plants, hippeastrums and their red, pink, white, orange, and even striped blooms can brighten a dreary day in a flash.
If you buy the bulbs ready to burst with color, stage them in a decorative cachepot (see Potting Your Plant) and keep them in bright to moderate light. If you choose to plant your own bulbs, plan accordingly: blooming takes, on average, six to eight weeks. For New Year’s showstoppers, start planting in November. If you crave June blooms, plant your bulbs in April. Choose a weighty pot to hold the load of the bloom and bury the bulb in potting mix pointy side up, with its “neck” and “shoulders” above the soil surfaces; its sides like it cozy, just 2 inches (5 cm) from the edge of the pot. Place in a well-lit, warm spot and water sparingly until leaves appear. Once it is in flower, keep it out of direct sun and in a bit cooler temperature to prolong the blooming period, and keep the soil lightly moist.
Once the flowers fade, the bulbs need time to rejuvenate. Keep the plant watered and in a bright spot even after its blooms have faded (cut back the shriveled flower stalk to 2 inches/5 cm above the bulb). In spring, place the plant outdoors in a spot with dappled shade. When early fall rolls around, the plant will enter a dormant period for eight to ten weeks. During this time, move it to a cool place and reduce watering. Approximately two months before your desired bloom time, repeat the bulb-planting steps above. Note: The beauty of this plant is matched by its toxicity—keep bulbs away from young children and pets.
Here, a metal hooped form guides the twining stems of a hoya into a round shape. To re-create the look, choose a trellis, insert its base into the soil firmly, and gently attach loose stems to the form with twist ties.
A rambling vine with many guises
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Bright
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist (just shy of dry in winter); provide humidity when not in bloom
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average to warm
SIZE
Tabletop
These tropical vines (also known as wax plants or wax flowers) are classic houseplants and may send you on a nostalgic trip back to your childhood. Commonly spotted trailing from baskets, strewn across kitchens, or wrapped around poles, they’re easy to grow and fun to style. Their thick, waxy leaves come in many shapes and sizes, from the flat almond shapes of H. carnosa to the creamy fringes of the ‘Tricolor’ hoya (H. carnosa ‘Tricolor’) or Krimson Queen hoya (Krimson Queen H. carnosa ), pictured here, to the playful button-like leaves of H. obovata. This plant likes things warm, so place it in an area of the home that suits its tender nature, and ensure that nighttime temperatures stay balmy.
Although the hoya’s foliage is a spectacle in and of itself, its flowers are the real showstoppers. These sweet-scented constellations of star-shaped blooms are produced only when your plant matures; they are more likely to appear if you place the plant in a bright, warm spot and allow the roots to form a tight network by resisting the urge to repot. At first glance, you’ll swear the delicate flowers are crafted from marzipan. Hoyas love predictability, so once buds appear, basically tiptoe around your plant—and let the faded flowers fall off naturally, leaving the spurs (they will reflower in the same spot). Look for fragrant varieties like H. compacta (commonly called Hindu rope), which will fill your room with outrageously sweet aromas. Beware that the hoya’s leaves are toxic to animals.
Note: Hoyas can sometimes attract mealy bugs. If you spot the white woolly creatures on your plant, wipe the leaves and stems with water or dish soap. If that doesn’t work, to protect your plants’ friends, it’s best to either root a bug-free cutting in water (see Rooting) or dispose of the plant altogether.
A fuzzy aquatic oddity
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Low
Soil
Not required
Watering
Top off and change water frequently
Fertilizer
None
Temperature
Average to cool
SIZE
Tabletop
A marimo doesn’t require much attention. Just give it a little swirl occasionally to mimic the natural motion of a marimo moving around a lake bed, keeping it round and healthy. If it becomes squashed in appearance and you prefer a round shape, remove it from the water and lightly roll it in the palm of your hand.
Marimo (Aegagropila linnaei) are commonly called moss balls, but this name is misleading—these adorable specimens aren’t moss at all. Rather, they are clumps of slow-growing green algae that are naturally found rolling around lake bottoms in places like Japan and Iceland. In Japanese folklore, the marimo is a symbol of love and good luck. Stories tell of two lovers forced apart who hatched a plan to run away together. Upon reaching Lake Akan, they both dove in, and it’s said their spirits became marimo balls. Possessing the plant is thought to bring you closer to your heart’s desire.
To add one of these charmers to your home, simply place the balls in clear vessels of water. These guys like things cool, so place them in an area away from heat sources and direct sunlight. Group containers of varying heights and shapes together for a big impact, or keep things sweet and simple with a single specimen. For a more interesting display, combine marimo balls of different sizes in the same vase or add aquatic sand or pebbles (readily available at pet stores) for another layer of color and texture. Larger rocks can also be added to your vessel, but clean them well beforehand to avoid cloudy water and bacteria growth. Top off the vessel’s water level as needed with cool tap water, and change the water every two weeks (more often in warmer months) to keep things crystal clear.
Marimo are a great option for darker rooms that might not be suitable for regular plants. Place them on dimly lit bedside tables or tuck them into bookshelves and workspace alcoves. If you’re having trouble finding these aquatic plants, or if your betta fish is looking for company, pet stores sell marimo as betta buddies.