Decorating with Plants

1. Which room do you want the plant to live in, and what is the environment in that space? What’s the light level? Temperature range? Relative humidity? If you have your heart set on a finicky specimen that won’t thrive in your space’s existing conditions, you can always add “sunlight” with grow lights (see Shed Some Light) or create a more humid microclimate by placing a gravel tray under your pot (see Humidity)—but know that maintaining this special mini environment will require more time and effort than choosing a plant that’s naturally well suited to the room.

2. What’s your style? Nature’s original decor, plants come in a range of “styles” that can complement the rest of a room’s look. Do you want something sleek, or do you crave a wild and untamed mass? Do you like vibrant colors, or would you prefer to stick to a neutral palette of greens? What do you already own that the plant would go nicely with?

3. How big do you want it to be? Are you looking for a floor plant or something pint-size for your desk? Ask your local nursery about the growth rate of the plant. Monstera, for example, is a rapid grower; if you take one home, be prepared to offer it a space where it can spread its long stems, aerial roots, and oversize leaves. Others, like the ZZ plant, will take years to mature.

4. What’s your budget? Plants, like anything else, vary in price depending on availability, season, location, and growth rate. Choose what works for you and your wallet. The smaller a plant, the cheaper it tends to be. If you are willing to be patient, you might choose a medium-size plant and simply wait for it to grow up into the floor plant of your dreams. (There’s another benefit to raising your plant versus buying it full-size straightaway: growing it to maturity in your home results in a stronger plant, one that doesn’t undergo the stress of acclimating from its previous environment in a nursery or shop to its new spot in your home.)

5. How much time do you want to spend caring for your greenery? Some plants require much more effort than others. If keeping track of when to water, mist, and fertilize makes your head spin, choose from the many houseplants that are relatively low maintenance. (See part I, for some of my favorite easy-care options.)

Maybe you’ve found the exact plant that is on your wish list, or perhaps you’ve stumbled upon one and decided it just has to go home with you! Before you pull out your wallet, though, pause and take a closer look. To ensure that you’re bringing home the best possible specimen, spend a few minutes with your new prospect. Touch it, pick it up, and flip over the leaves. (It’s kind of like looking under the hood when you’re car shopping.) Here are a few things to check out.

The Leaves: If the plant is supposed to be green, make sure the leaves are actually green, not yellow or brown. Are they bushy? Full of life? Avoid plants with wilting or torn leaves, as well as ones with notched or nibbled leaves, both signs of bugs.

The Grow Pot: You want a plant that is proportionally the correct size for its current grow pot—not too large, not too small. The roots should loosely fill the pot. Lift the pot and check the bottom: are roots growing out of the drainage holes? If so, the plant may be undesirably “root-bound.” Also called “pot-bound,” this is when roots are itching to grow but are tightly constrained to the pot—they keep wrapping and wrapping over themselves to create a tightly knit web of roots. If you were to gently lift the plant out of the grow pot, the soil should generally hold together (as shown opposite), not instantly fall apart or come out as a solid mass of roots (though you won’t be able to perform this test before buying, unless you ask the garden center staff to help you).

The Buds: If flowers are what you’re after, look for ripe buds, not fully open blooms. This way you can enjoy all the stages of the plant’s growth.

You want your new plant to thrive in its new home; give it a leg up before you even leave the store. As insulation against cold temperatures, and to protect its leaves from unwanted bumps and bruises on even a mild day, a houseplant should be wrapped in paper (the salesperson should be able to do this for you). Bubble Wrap works well to both cushion the plant from damage and insulate it on cold winter days (you may need to bring your own). Hot weather can do just as much damage as cold, so don’t leave a plant in a hot car longer than necessary.

When you get it home, unwrap your new plant and place it on a plate or tray to protect the surface underneath. If you can’t get to repotting it right away (see Staging), leave it to acclimate in a draft-free and not-too-sunny place until you’re ready to transplant it.

What’s in a Name?

Every plant has two names: its Latin botanical name and its common name. Think of the botanical name as a bar code for plants—no two are the same. In contrast, plants can have multiple common names, and some common names are shared by multiple plants, which can definitely lead to confusion! That’s why in part I, I include both common and botanical names—so that you can track down the exact plant that tickles your fancy. For a complete list of plants mentioned in this book by common and botanical names, turn to the appendix.

All terrestrial houseplants (see “No Soil? No Problem!” below) require a potting mix of some kind—a combination of mediums such as soil, peat, sand, perlite, leaf mold, and bark. Potting mixes are distinguished from outdoor ground soil not only by their light or “fluffy” quality, which provides air gaps that give plants access to oxygen, but also by the assured absence of any soilborne maladies.

Below are a few common potting mix options. For the majority of houseplants, regular potting mix is just fine. Check out the specifications in the Go-To Plant List or talk to your local nursery expert to get advice on a good match.

Regular Potting Mix: For most houseplants, this is the “go-to” blend—just scoop it right out of the bag and you’re ready to pot (although one can certainly amend this growing medium to add more nutrients, allow for better drainage or water retention, etc.). Not all regular potting mixes are the same, but they normally feature a combination of organic and inorganic materials that are meant to hold moisture, provide nutrition, anchor roots, and offer “fluff” for aeration. Uncontaminated soil is often, but not always, an ingredient. Organic materials, derived from once-living matter, are included for moisture retention, while inorganic matter (like tiny rocks and sand) helps the mix drain. Check the label if, like me, you want to be sure to keep things natural–some mixes include artificial materials or chemical fertilizer.

Cactus Mix: This mix contains more sand and other grit like vermiculite and perlite than regular potting mix to help water drain. Because it holds less moisture than regular potting mix, it’s a better option for plants that like things dry, like succulents.

Peat Moss Mix: Surprisingly, not all potting mixes include soil. Peat-based mixes work well for bromeliads and are sometimes combined with other mediums to formulate a special “violet mix,” which is suitable for African violets as well as Cape primroses. Peat is a decomposed matter that originates in bog habitats. It is lightweight and excellent at retaining both water and nutrients, but unfortunately, it is not sustainable. Coir and other more sustainable materials can be substituted for peat moss as they have similar water-retaining properties. Note that these mixes are often lightweight and can’t support a tall, heavy plant.

Orchid Bark: This mix of bark is formulated for plants that grow on trees, not in soil (see “No Soil? No Problem!” below). The bark chunks provide a surface for gripping as well as air gaps for the plant’s roots to breathe. Some orchid mixes include leaf mold, perlite, sphagnum moss, and other ingredients. Note: Orchids are often planted and sold in sphagnum moss, making them easier to transport (no loose bits of bark!) from the grower to the retail store to your home. If the moss dries out, soak it in water for a few minutes to ensure that it absorbs enough moisture.

No Soil? No Problem!

Not all plants need soil to live. Those that do are called terrestrial; those that don’t and instead grow on top of other plants or on outcrops are called epiphytes. Common epiphytes include air plants and some types of orchids, which latch onto tree branches to live harmoniously with their host. Other epiphytes, like mistletoe, grow parasitically on trees and damage their hosts.

Once you get your plant home, you have a few options. You can “stage” the plant in its original grow pot, repot it in a vessel of your choosing, or do something even more creative, such as turning it into a kokedama (see Kokedama).

3. Gently tip the plant on its side, give the grow pot a squeeze, and remove the plant from the pot. Gently massage the roots to separate them (see opposite; this allows them to loosen and grow outside the shape of the original container).

4. Set the plant in its new pot. The base of the stem should rest just below the rim of the pot. Fill in with soil and give the plant a little shimmy to work the soil into all the nooks and crannies. Add more soil if needed. The soil line should rest just below the rim of the pot.

5. Cover the soil with a pretty, decorative topper. Options include moss; rocks, gravel, or pebbles; wood chips; creeping wire vine; and Spanish moss. For something out of the ordinary, try buttons, sea glass, or broken terra-cotta. (A topper is like a swept floor—it makes for a more polished look, even if you can’t put your finger on why!)

6. Put something between the pot and your chosen surface—a piece of cork, a dish, a pot holder—to add one more layer of protection against water damage.

Topdressing

Every year or two, your plants will benefit from a repotting. For plants that are large or prickly, or that do best with tighter roots, like a hoya, simply remove the top layer of potting mix (and any decorative topping) and add a fresh layer of soil.

• 1 plant in a 4-inch (10 cm) grow pot (choose one that likes low or average light, for compatibility with moss); pictured here is an arrowhead plant

1. Mix the clay and peat in a small bowl, add the warm water a little at a time, and massage to create a thick consistency. Set aside to allow the water to be absorbed, and massage again. Spray or soak the moss with water to moisten, prevent dust, and make it more malleable. Set aside. Layer the plate with cellophane. Scoop the clay mixture onto the cellophane and make a pancake about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick and 8 inches (20 cm) across.

2. Unpot your plant, remove excess soil (to keep the moss ball in scale with the plant), and set the root ball on top of the clay pancake.

3. As if you’re wrapping a gift in cellophane, enclose the soil with the clay, leaving the plant exposed. Create a ball shape with the clay. Let any extra water drain onto the cellophane. Remove the cellophane to expose the intact clay ball shape. Set aside the plant, and clean the cellophane.

4. With the green side down, lay the moss on the cellophane. Set the plant’s clay ball in the center of the moss. Repeat the gift wrap movement with moss.

5. Wrap the ball with rubber bands to temporarily secure the moss. Tidy the moss, trimming around the base of the plant. Secure the moss with twine by wrapping it gently yet securely around the moss to form a ball shape. Tie off the twine or tuck it near the stem. Snip the rubber bands and remove them.

6. Keep out of direct sun, mist often, and soak in a bowl of water occasionally. Give the ball a gentle squeeze before returning it to its vessel—it shouldn’t sit in a pool of water all day.

Think of your plant as a friend—an exceptional creature in its own right that drinks water, needs nutrients, craves light, breathes air, and even sleeps (or at least rests from time to time). Unlike their wild cousins that receive water, fertilization, and so on naturally, houseplants need our assistance to thrive. Most times when you buy a plant, it will come with a care tag that outlines its light, water, and air temperature requirements. An in-depth look at each of these aspects of plant care, and more, follows. (Note that the Go-To Plant List includes details about the featured plants’ care needs.)

In their natural environments, some plants (like philodendrons) cling to trees and receive dappled sunlight, while others (like cacti) are out in the open and exposed to full sunshine all day. While plants are adaptable, in order for them to flourish, they should be kept in your best approximation of their preferred lighting conditions. If you set a sun-loving plant in a windowless room, it won’t survive for long—but it’ll likely do fine with bright light instead of direct sun.

The lighting conditions in any home are determined by many factors. If you’re on the top floor of an apartment building and have an expansive view, you’ll have different light than if you’re on the bottom floor of the same building. Depending on where you live relative to the equator, season may matter, too: in the United States, winter days are much shorter than summer days (and the light is less intense and of a lesser quality). That sun-hungry plant of yours might need a light boost in winter (see tip, above).

Light is difficult to precisely measure without a light meter, but there’s no need to run out and get a piece of equipment. Opposite are general explanations of the common categories of lighting conditions (essentially, light’s intensity drops as the distance from a window increases).

Lighting Tips

• Some plants bend toward light, and others bend away from it. Rotate plants if you want them looking good from all angles (set heavy plants on a lazy Susan or on a wheeled plant stand).

• Plants can sunburn. Move them from shade into direct sunlight gradually, not in one fell swoop.

• Clean dirty windows and remove screens to allow maximum light to reach your plants.

• Help your plants cope with suboptimal lighting or short winter days by placing a lamp above them. Any bulb will help, as long as it is used in addition to some natural light (a regular incandescent lightbulb won’t be enough for a plant in a dark corner if it is the only source of light). If using only artificial light, you’ll need an LED bulb (see Shed Some Light for details).

• White walls and mirrors help bounce light around a room and give plants a boost.

• Sunlight in the morning (and very late afternoon) is of lesser quality, is less intense, and is cooler than the rays in midday and early afternoon. If a plant calls for bright light but cooler temperatures, be sure to place it in a spot that avoids midday sunshine.

Direct Light

Direct light means the sun is shining right on the plant for about half the day. If you’re in the northern hemisphere, like here in the United States, a south-facing window is the perfect home for plants that like direct light.

Bright Light

This is the indirect light you’d get through a sheer curtain or right next to a window that doesn’t have sun shining directly onto the surface below it. If you hold your hand over a blank piece of paper in this spot, you should see a defined shadow. A lot of plants like this kind of light.

Moderate Light

This is the kind of light found a few feet (1 m) inside a room’s walls or right along a dim, north-facing window (in the northern hemisphere). There’s no exact blueprint for this value because the luminosity depends on many factors, including the size of the window, the orientation of the sun, and any structures (awnings, trees, buildings) that may hamper the sun’s rays. The best rule of thumb is that this light will produce a fuzzy shadow.

Low Light

This is the lighting condition well away from a room’s source of illumination (for example, the opposite side of a room with a small window). Note, however, that low light still means some light—you should be able to comfortably read a book where the plant is positioned. Low light is dim, not dark. (If the light is too low for a plant, it may get spindly or its green leaves will begin to yellow.)

When it comes to watering your plant, first consider the type of plant it is and its native environment. A succulent like an echeveria (that is accustomed to unreliable rainfall will retain moisture in its leaves and require infrequent watering, whereas a tropical plant like a croton drinks up water quickly and needs ambient humidity.

Watering frequency then will depend on several additional factors: the season (winter offers shorter days and cooler temperatures, meaning less water is needed) and the climate (Florida is more humid than Colorado), as well as the pot placement (a stand-alone planting in a sunny spot requires more water than a grouping in the shade), pot material (a breathable clay pot dries out more quickly than a plastic one), and pot size (a tiny pot needs to be watered more often than a large one). Two of the same exact plants, if placed in different environments, would require different watering schedules.

As a general rule, water your plant when the first inch (2.5 cm) or so of soil is dry. Use your finger, a water gauge, or a chopstick to measure soil moisture (for the latter, a brown line will appear on the chopstick at the point where the soil is moist). Weight is also a helpful indicator—lift the pot before and after a good soaking to feel the difference between parched and drenched soil. Beyond that, watch the plant—it will likely wilt when it needs water. If the plant hasn’t been without water for too long, it’ll bounce right back once you give it a drink (it’s cool to watch the leaves’ response as they perk right up and say thank-you!). Following is a rough guide on the levels of moisture your plants may require (and remember that plants may need different levels of moisture at various times of the year).

Dry: If your plant requires dry soil, that means times of drought are okay or even beneficial. Let it dry out completely for a time before watering thoroughly. Plants benefiting from this watering method, or lack thereof, often have plump leaves, like succulents, or have adapted other clever ways to store water in their naturally drier climates.

Slightly Moist: This level of moisture works for the majority of houseplants. The key is to ensure that the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so of the soil dries out before you water again (for a small 4-inch/10 cm pot, it’ll be the first ¼ inch/6 mm).

Evenly Moist: For plants that require evenly moist soil, don’t allow the soil to dry out at all between waterings. Moist soil is comparable to a wrung-out sponge—soft, plump, and slightly wet, but not soggy.

There are many ways to water a plant: soak it in a bowl of water, the sink, or the bathtub and let it drink from below (don’t soak for longer than an hour); sprinkle water from above onto the leaves; precisely water the soil below the foliage; mist the leaves; or let it make its own “rain forest” in a cloche or a closed terrarium (see Humidity). Some plants prefer certain methods, which will be indicated in the pages that follow when necessary, but when in doubt, the best option is to water the soil, not the leaves. Whatever method you choose, room-temperature water is best. Generally speaking, when it’s time to water, let the water fully saturate the soil. After watering, place the vessel on a saucer, let the water run out of the bottom of the pot, and discard the excess water.

Below are a few common questions you may have when it comes to watering your plant. If your plant just doesn’t seem happy, or isn’t drinking up its water like it should, consult this rundown for a few easy fixes that’ll perk a thirsty plant right up.

Is the water running off instead of soaking in? If so, the soil may be compacted. Make a few holes in the soil with a chopstick or fork and water again. The plant may also be root-bound (see “The Grow Pot”); in this case, it’s time to repot to create more space for soil and moisture to mingle in with the roots.

Has the soil separated from the edges of the pot, or is water quickly running right through the pot and not soaking in? This is an indication that your soil has completely dried out and needs to be rehydrated. If your pot has drainage holes, hold the pot in a bowl of room-temperature water. Let go when it starts to absorb water and stops floating, then soak for an hour or so to let the soil fully absorb moisture. If your pot doesn’t have drainage, fill the vessel with water, wait, and repeat until the soil is plump. Then gently tip the vessel out over a sink to drain any pooling excess water.

Think you’ve overwatered? Gently free the plant from the pot (it should come out with soil and roots intact). Then lightly pat down the edges of the soil using paper towels to absorb some of the excess water. Let the plant stand, unpotted, on a plate until it becomes just moist to the touch, then return it to the pot.

Going on vacation? If you’ll be gone for only a week or so, a simple solution is to give your plants a good drink before you leave and cluster them together to raise humidity and slow evaporation from the soil. You can create a similar effect by placing pots on a gravel tray (see Humidity) or even gently covering your plants with lightweight plastic (think dry cleaner bags) to create a temporary greenhouse effect. For a longer trip, consider purchasing a water globe, a wick-watering mechanism, or even self-watering pots. You can also make your own water-releasing contraption: Set a jug of water next to your plant. Cut pieces of natural twine into sections long enough to reach from the jug to the plant, then place one end of each piece at the bottom of the water jug and stick the other an inch into the soil surface. The standing water next to the plant will increase humidity, while the twine will replenish moisture in the soil as it dries out. Of course, you can also ask a friend or neighbor for a favor or even hire a professional plant sitter!

A lot of plants (and humans) feel most comfortable in 60 percent relative humidity. If you have artificial heating or cooling in your home or live in an arid climate and you are growing humidity-loving tropicals, you’ll probably need to increase the moisture in your air. Here are six techniques.

2. Set pots on a waterproof tray filled with gravel, and add a thin layer of water (make sure the gravel keeps the pots above the waterline). As the water evaporates, it will humidify the surrounding air.

6. Mist your plants. A spray bottle filled with water will only slightly improve humidity, but the act of misting is inexplicably satisfying and does clean plant leaves.

Plants thrive with fresh air and good air circulation. A gentle, warm breeze from an open window on a lovely day is a welcome balm for most. Be mindful of blazing radiators, arctic air conditioners, and drafty winter windows, all of which create conditions too extreme for most houseplants. Be aware that your home likely has a few microclimates. When choosing where to place your plant, think about which rooms tend to be warmer or cooler than others.

Some variation in temperature is okay, however. Just like their wild cousins, houseplants can benefit from cooler evening temperatures. In cooler air, plants slow down their respiration (sugar/energy usage) and allocate energy toward maintaining their health instead of putting it all into new growth. And although plants are sensitive to temperature, they are adaptable. The recommendations below aren’t strict rules—they’re ideals. And of course, heat or cool your home for your comfort, then find plants that thrive in that kind of environment.

Chilly: Below 55°F (13°C) but above freezing. This climate is detrimental to most houseplants, but there are a few that benefit from it, including bulbs that require forcing (like hippeastrum).

Cool: Roughly 55°F to 60°F (13°C to 16°C). For reference, this temperature may give you a slight chill, like when you enter a garage or a basement.

Average: 60°F to 75°F (16°C to 24°C). This is a wide range, and one most houseplants (and humans!) will feel fairly comfortable in.

Warm: 75°F to 80°F (24°C to 27°C). This is the climate for plants that like things toasty.

Like us, plants require nutrition. Some nutrients are obtained from the potting mix your plants are grown in, but you may want to supplement with a fertilizer during the longer days of spring and summer. The majority of houseplants will benefit from a monthly application, but some plants require a more regular regimen (twice monthly) and others will benefit from a lighter application (every two or three months). The Go-To Plant List includes information on how frequently to fertilize; it’s often best to cut out fertilizer completely in the winter months (when growth tends to slow or the plant enters a dormant period and needs rest).

Fertilizer is offered in powder, liquid, and pellet form, and will be marked with three numbers that indicate the percentages of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) in the mixture. Different combinations promote leaf growth, root growth, blooming, and fruiting, but a “general-purpose” natural fertilizer offers a solid one-stop-shopping option. When I fertilize, I like natural blends such as fish or seaweed. There’s more wiggle room in terms of timing and measurements with natural by-product blends, since they generally supply lower levels of nutrients than chemical fertilizers do. If opting for a liquid fertilizer, water the soil first to increase absorption.

Regardless of the formula you choose, it pays to be conservative in your application—less is more. Overloading the soil with nutrients is often more detrimental than avoiding fertilization completely, as it can burn the plant’s roots and cause distress. Especially with chemical fertilizers, I recommend skipping the manufacturer’s instructions and using a half-strength mix instead.

Plants show you what they need. Caring for them is a matter of understanding and interpreting their signals and, when needed, changing things to keep them healthy. Here are some common maladies and possible solutions. If you’re really in a pinch, head to the Royal Horticultural Society website (RHS.org.uk/advice) for help with plant diagnostics and suggested remedies.

Wilting or Curling Leaves: The most common cause of wilting or curling leaves is either underwatering or overwatering. If the pot feels lighter than usual, it is a good indication that the soil has dried out and needs water. Conversely, if when you lift the pot, there’s a pool of water in the saucer, you’ve been overzealous with the watering can. Empty the saucer and soak up any sogginess in the soil with a rag or newspaper. If water doesn’t seem to be the issue, consider temperature. Heat can make a plant wilt, and curling leaves can be brought about by cold drafts near windows, doors, or open hallways. Aphid bugs can also cause curling, as they suck the juices out of a plant’s leaves. If you spot these soft-bodied bugs, wipe them away or blast them with a faucet’s spray to remove them.

Brown or Yellow Spots on Leaves: Spots and patches on leaves are usually a sign of either a watering issue or pests. Do some investigating—brown crispy tips signal underwatering or low humidity; brown soft spots may mean you’ve been overwatering. It could also be a fungus or blight—remove any damaged leaves and make sure your plant has good air circulation. Speckles on the surface of the leaves or a blister-like appearance may indicate that you have unwelcome scale insects. Remove these critters with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol, and be diligent—they’re tough to conquer once they’ve interloped. Finally, if you’ve recently moved your plant from shade to a sunny spot, it may be sunburned—always move plants from shade to sun in stages to acclimate them.

Ragged or Holey Leaves: If holes or notched edges suddenly appear on the leaves of your plant, it’s likely that the plant is hosting some sort of chewing insect. This can be treated fairly easily—pick off any adults and spray the affected area with soapy water. Evidence of snail activity usually includes a trail of shiny slime. Look in nooks and crannies where snails might be hiding from daylight.

Wrinkled or Shrunken Leaves: Naturally fleshy plants like succulents (including cacti and sansevieria) will let you know when they’re receiving too much or too little water. Gently touch a leaf: if it’s hard and wrinkled, it’s time to water; if it’s soft and prune-like or has gone to mush, it’s a sign you may have been overwatering.

Falling Leaves: It’s quite normal for leaves to fall off some new or recently repotted plants. Give those plants time to acclimate, and prevent shock by slowly and gradually moving them from an area of low light to one of bright light. If you haven’t recently moved or repotted your plant, falling leaves could be due to an undesirable temperature change or could signal overwatering or underwatering (check your plant’s requirements). If the leaves progress from healthy green to pale then darker yellow and finally fall off, give your plant a gentle shake—if a cloud of tiny flying bugs appears, you’re dealing with a white fly infestation (for treatment options, see the box below). And remember, it’s natural for leaves to fall off your plant—old leaves will sometimes fall and be replaced by new growth.

Leggy Stems: Spindly growth, also called etiolation, is a hint that your plant isn’t receiving enough light and is on the prowl to find it. The flat rosettes of an echeveria are particularly susceptible to such wanderings if left without adequate light. (Other telltale signs your plant is light deprived include small leaves, pale green growth, and leaf loss.)

Sticky Stuff: Leaves that are sticky to the touch may be home to unwanted guests. The stickiness is not from the plant but is a substance called honeydew, excreted by an insect pest. There are many different pest treatments out there. Most are pest specific, so it may require a process of elimination to find the right remedy.

Guttation: This is not as horrific as it sounds! Guttation is the term for tiny water droplets forming on leaf tips. Unlike dew, which settles on the leaves, this water comes from inside the leaf and is caused by wet soil (when the plant takes in too much water and pressure builds, which forces moisture to be exuded as little droplets). You’re most likely to notice this phenomenon in the morning before moisture has had a chance to evaporate.

Roots Abound: If roots are popping out of the pot’s drainage holes, it might be time to repot. Gently lift out the plant; if it’s one mass of tightly knit roots, it’s time for an upgrade. If you want your plant to grow larger, slightly increase the pot size: break up the roots with your hands (or a clean knife), remove a portion of the soil, add some fresh potting mix to the pot, and replant. If you want to keep the plant about the same size, see the box for instructions. (See Repotting.)

Sadly, a lot of plants are killed with kindness—often with too much water. To make the situation worse, after just one bad run, folks say, “I’m a plant killer!” Having a plant die on your watch may be disheartening, but please don’t give up. Some plants are expected to live for years and years, while others, like a gerbera daisy, may make only a quick stopover. Don’t be hard on yourself if a plant friend fades away—I’ve had plenty move on to the compost pile. It’s all about practice, trial, and error. Just say, “Thank you; it was fun knowing you. I’m so glad we had this time together.” Then try again!

A Word about Bugs

The first layer of defense against pests is to keep your plant healthy. Insect troublemakers are on the lookout for an easy prospect and are more likely to infest a run-down plant than a vigorous one. If you find an insect intruder, segregate your plant (or even set it outside) until it has healed, and be consistent with your treatment. If you catch the bugs early (and they aren’t flying off everywhere), start by simply washing them off with water. You’ll need to rinse, wipe, and repeat for a few days after they disappear. For a stronger line of defense, try applying rubbing alcohol to the infested areas with a cotton swab, or mixing a few drops of natural dish soap with water and applying with a spray bottle or cloth. For specific treatments, you can take a photo of the infestation and bring it to a plant nursery or Cooperative Extension master gardener and ask for assistance. If things get serious, and bugs abound, consider bringing your plant to the compost bin so that those creepy crawlers don’t spread to other plants.

Plants have their own natural forms (draping, upright, bushy), but with help from humans, they can be manipulated into all sorts of shapes. Bonsai plants, for example, are kept small, while topiaries are groomed to a particular form, and espaliered plants are trained against a wall. Stems can even be grown over structures to create curved configurations or woven into living art (see the braided spear sansevieria, for example). Here are a few simple techniques for shaping your plants.

We prune plants both for aesthetic reasons and for the health of the plant. You may want to keep your plant a certain size or make a straggly or spindly plant fuller and bushier by trimming to encourage branching and growth.

Plants can also be pruned into whimsical shapes like elephants or more classic topiary shapes like lollipops. The variegated dwarf umbrella plants, for example, have been pruned and trained differently from the start of their lives. If allowed to grow naturally, the plant on the right will continue to spread up and out in a wild bushy form. In contrast, the plant on the left has been carefully pruned, with new growth removed along the trunk, to create its tree-like shape. If a plant has a broken stem or a section ravaged by diseases or bugs, pruning will freshen it up. And once a flowering plant is done blooming, deadheading (snipping the spent blooms) will keep it from setting seed and thus may encourage it to bloom again.

Keeping Your Plant’s Size in Check

Some plants, like the rubber plant, will keep on growing as you increase their pot size. If your plant’s roots are popping out of the soil but you want to keep it the same size rather than transfer it to a larger pot, unpot the plant, and with a clean sharp knife or pruners, gently shave off about 1 inch (2.5 cm) around the perimeter of the root-ball. Add fresh potting mix to the same pot and replant.

Adding Support

Pictured here are two different variegated dwarf umbrella plants (Schefflera arboricola ‘Variegata’), one pruned and trained (left) and the other allowed to grow wild (right).

The first form of support you may encounter is a stake tied to the main stem or trunk of your plant when you purchase it from a nursery. This holds the tree or plant upright during transportation. However, the green tape and bamboo poles often used to secure plants might not be aesthetically pleasing, and the overall shape of your plant may need some adjusting. To restake your plant, first carefully snip the tape that holds the plant’s stems to the stake. Move from the bottom to the top, slowly supporting each stem as you go with your hands. Gently let the stem go. Repeat with each stake. Once the stems are free, shape and support as you wish. Experiment with green twine and stakes that can be camouflaged, or go for something bright and attention grabbing.

Support structures can take many other forms, too: a hidden stake around which young plant stems are braided (as shown here, on the left), a wire hoop on which a hoya grows to create a living sculpture, a single stick holding up a floppy-headed orchid, a series of wall hooks supporting a vine (see this photo and this photo), or a trellis on which you’ve espaliered a plant (see the photo).

Finally, pruning and adding support go hand in hand. You’ll need snips and twine or twist ties handy to help guide and support your upwardly or outwardly crawling green friend.

Sharing a plant is a meaningful endeavor. It’s an easy and affordable gesture of trust, friendship, and community spirit. Plus, seeing how someone else shows off your living gift—with vase choice, placement, planting technique—is a fun way to collaborate, learn, and be inspired. Some plants that are particularly easy to propagate are featured in part I along with specific instructions (see box, box, box, and box). Here are a few simple ways to share your plants.

Offsets are essentially baby plants that are produced from a mother plant. With plants that produce offsets, like bromeliads and some succulent, simply pluck or cut, place in a pot, and share!

Rooting is the process by which a cutting or piece of plant is placed in water, perlite, or a potting mix until new roots form. Adding rooting hormones can help with faster and better root formation. Pelargoniums and pothos are good candidates for this method. Once roots form, the tiny plant can be planted in a potting mix.

Dividing

Dividing plants can take some muscle, especially when the roots are tenacious (like in the case of this ZZ plant). Don’t be afraid to really yank them apart or, if needed, employ a sharp knife for assistance.

Sometimes you must dig deep into the soil to propagate plants. To divide a plant, unpot your specimen and separate the root clump. Some break apart easily, like the bulbs of the oxalis, while others have more tenacious root systems and require a sharp knife. Once separated, replant in fresh potting mix.

Child and Pet Safety

Any poisonous plants featured in this book will be noted as toxic. In the context of this book, toxic does not automatically mean deadly—severity and symptoms vary. As a precaution, you may want to keep all plants out of reach of small children and animals. Some plants, like the ZZ, aren’t dangerous to touch but are harmful if ingested, while others that deter predators with sharp thorns (like cacti) or irritating sap (some euphorbias) may injure your skin with the slightest touch. Visit the ASPCA website (ASPCA.org) for a list of pet-safe plants. A few common poisonous plants to look out for include chrysanthemum, gardenia, hellebore, hippeastrum, monstera, pothos, rex begonia, sago palm, sansevieria, schefflera, and pencil cacti.