A “black thumb’s” best friend
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Low to bright
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep slightly moist; can let dry slightly between waterings
Fertilizer
Use monthly, only in spring and summer
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop
If you’ve struggled to keep houseplants alive in the past or if you’re just getting started with plants, the pothos is almost a fail-safe. Often confused for the heartleaf philodendron), this tropical vine is native to the isolated island chain of French Polynesia, where it tumbles down from treetops and drifts across forest floors. The coloration in the waxy leaves of the pothos is what distinguishes it from the philodendron: pothos leaves are laden with gold, white, and yellow marks (they also tend to be larger in size).
Pothos grows incredibly well indoors (reaching up to 8 feet/2.5 m long!) and is extremely versatile, though toxic to pets. Trail long vines from hanging planters or allow them to traverse across shelves and mantels. Varieties such as golden pothos (Epipremnum aureum) are easily found and among the simplest to grow. For an added pop of interest, choose a variegated species such as E. aureum ‘N’Joy’, pictured here (ensure that it retains its colorful foliage by placing it in an area of adequate light).
Gentle pruning once or twice a year will prevent the vine from getting too leggy. Clip vines back to as short as 2 inches (5 cm) above the soil. As a bonus, you will end up with a handful of new plants! Pothos are extremely easy to propagate and a good starting point for people with no experience. Simply take a section of vine that includes at least one leaf and a node (the point where a leaf or bud attaches to the stem) and stick the clipping in soil or a jar of water until roots form. Share with a friend or cheat your way to a voluminous look by wedging the plantling into the same pot as your original plant.
How to “Basket” Your Pothos
For a fuller-looking pothos, try “basketing” its vines. Untangle its limbs, separate each vine, then one by one wind the vines around the base of your plant on top of the soil. Gently poke the vines into the soil and secure with a U-shaped piece of wire every few inches to encourage rooting.
A dreamy moonchild
The Basics
Care Level
Moderate
Light
Moderate
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop
Though the common name prayer plant in this book refers only to the maranta plant, both the maranta and calathea plants fall into the Marantaceae family and are often mistaken for one another. Named after sixteenth-century Italian botanist and physician Bartolomeo Maranta, both have artfully painted leaves and similar care requirements. Within the Maranta leuconeura species, you’ll find the lemon-lime ‘Marisela’ variety pictured here and the more common red-veined specimen.
Prayer plants are so named for the plant’s daily ceremony: listen carefully in the early dawn and dusk hours, and you may just hear the gentle rustle as it lowers and lifts its striking herringbone-patterned leaves in a nyctinastic bow to light. Some leaves may naturally brown as the plant grows—keep things tidy by occasionally pruning them.
Native to tropical Central and South America, prayer plants are low growers, taking root as their nodes creep slowly across the soil. This sprawling manner makes them versatile houseplants, allowing them to glide over tables, span interiors, and flow from hanging planters. They can grow up to 3 feet (1 m) long—if unruly stems are not your thing, trim just below a node (the points where leaves or buds attach to the stem). You can use these trimmings to propagate new plants: simply place the cutting in water until it forms new roots, then transfer to a pot with potting mix. The prayer plant is considered slightly more demanding than most houseplants, requiring relatively high humidity—turn to humidity for tips on how to achieve this.
It’s all about that leaf
The Basics
Care Level
Moderate
Light
Bright
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Water lightly but frequently; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use monthly, only in spring and summer
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop
Rex begonias (Begonia Rex Cultorum Group) make heads turn with their dramatic leaves, which can be streaked, splashed, and swirled with an artist’s palette of purples, reds, greens, pinks, and metallics. Rex begonia varieties include aptly named cultivars like the almost hypnotic spiraling leaves of ‘Escargot’, the exploding silver-and-plum tones of ‘Fireworks’, and the iridescent and cranberry double twirl of ‘China Curl’. The one pictured here is ‘Fairy’, but they are often unlabeled—just pick the one that speaks to you!
This vibrant mass of texture, pattern, and color erupts from a thick horizontal root stem called the rhizome. It sits just below the soil and sprouts shoots and roots from its nodes (the points where leaves or buds attach to the stem). Because the rhizome lies close to the surface, rex begonias are susceptible to overwatering. If you’re willing, let the leaves flag slightly before watering—but try to attend to them just before they begin to droop. Above the soil, however, it’s a different story: rex begonias have a fervency for moderate to high humidity. Display alongside other plants for a showstopping centerpiece (for more ways to increase humidity, see humidity).
If the fancy-leaved rex begonia doesn’t charm you, look for other varieties in this expansive genus: tuberous begonias are renowned for their blowsy blooms; ‘Sharon’ begonias have eye-catching, wing-shaped leaves; and wax begonias feature waxy leaves and elegant flowers.
That touch of bronze on the middle section of this plant tells us it got a lot of sun, and possibly too little water. Some people intentionally keep their plants in this state because they like the way it looks, but with reduced light and increased watering, the plant can bounce back from this “stress” and return to its all-green visage.
A quirky cactus from the tropics
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Moderate
Soil
Cactus mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist; can let dry slightly between waterings; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop
Found clinging to trees in tropical and subtropical forests, this cactus (also known as the forest or jungle cactus) is an epiphyte—hanging in shady branches and nestled between nooks and crotches of a tree (where decomposed organic matter collects), and even on rocks, rather than growing from the ground’s soil, it decorates the surrounding air with its bright green and sometimes hairy stems. There are many varieties of rhipsalis, each with its own “hairstyle” and interesting quirks, from the bronzed tips of Rhipsalis ewaldiana to the glistening white berries of R. baccifera (a feature from which its other common name, mistletoe cactus, is perhaps derived). Pictured here is R. sulcata. For a fuzzy-tipped variety, called a hairy-fruited wickerwork cactus (it’s the leftmost plant in the planter at the right side of the tabletop). Place your rhipsalis in a hanging planter to not only mimic its natural treetop environment but also allow you to take in the architectural configuration of its contoured green antennae.
Though rhipsalis is a cactus and requires good drainage, it does benefit from some humidity. Its epiphytic nature means you can also treat it similarly to an orchid, mounting it to a piece of wood for a vertical display. Usually sold as a potted plant, it can survive with a small root space; wrap the root-ball in sheet moss (as you would a kokedama) or burlap before attaching to the wood. Once your jungle cactus is mounted, water it when the soil at the base of its stems feels dry. Look out for puckering stems—this means the plant needs more water. Submerge the whole plaque in a sink or bowl of water until the soil feels moist again.
A polished addition to any space
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Bright to moderate
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep evenly moist; let dry slightly in cooler months; provide humidity
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
A valued member of the ficus genus, the rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is flexible in both nature and design. Gaining its common name from its sticky sap, which dries to create a low-grade rubber, it can be kept small enough to grace a coffee table or grown as a stately tree.
Outdoors, this plant can reach towering heights of up to 40 feet (12 m), and in its native habitat of India, it is used to create ornate “root bridges” (solid walkable surfaces). Grown indoors, it is less of a spectacle but equally impressive: its shiny, leathery leaves span up to 8 inches (20 cm), and the plant can reach up to 12 feet (3.7 m) tall. For a touch of opulence, go for the sumptuous darker tones of F. elastica ‘Burgundy’ (pictured here, right), or delve into the variegated creamy pastures of F. elastica ‘Ruby Red’ (left) for a playful display.
If you want a plant that’s the right size for a coffee table or desk, keep your tree root-bound by restricting its growth in a small container. To create a compact, plush style, prune your plant from the top; this will cause it to branch outward, and you can control unruly side branches by trimming them off. (For more on shaping your plant.)
Although they have a sturdy facade, rubber plants are sensitive to change, so avoid moving them around frequently or placing them in areas of extreme temperature fluctuations. They do better with high humidity, but resist the temptation to mist rubber plants, as residual water on the leaves can lead to fungal spot disease. Instead, try grouping plants together or invest in a home humidifier. Polish its leaves with a damp cloth regularly to keep them shiny. Note that the rubber plant is toxic to pets, and its sap can be an irritant to people.
Malleable, multicolored, and mythical
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Direct to low
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep slightly moist; can let dry slightly between waterings
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
Conjuring up images of fantastical creatures and medieval weaponry, the sansevieria (Sansevieria trifasciata) has strong ties to enchantment and superstition. Its toxic nature and sharp, sword-like blades explain its well-deserved aliases of snake plant and mother-in-law’s tongue. Sansevieria is revered in African rituals for its ability to remove the evil eye, resolve conflict, and squash tension. In China, it’s treasured for bestowing the eight virtues of the gods and is thought to bring luck to anyone growing it.
In the home, this carefree and common houseplant is favored for its tolerance for neglect. It is a succulent, and its leaves store water in case of unfavorable drought conditions, making it a great choice for beginners or those who want the pleasantries of plants without a lot of upkeep. The dense growth and tall stance (reaching 4 feet/1.2 m indoors) of some varieties of this plant make it ideal for screening: place it in front of a window or an unattractive electrical panel to provide a clever disguise (because its elongated leaves can grow quite heavy, plant in weighted, low pots to avoid toppling). Others, like the dwarf ‘Hahnii’ sansevieria, are really good for small containers. As a bonus, the snake plant (specifically S. trifasciata ‘Laurentii’) is considered one of the best air-purifying plants (see more air-cleaning specimens). Simply dust occasionally with a damp cloth to restore the leaves’ sheen.
Pictured here is the mottled S. kirkii var. pulchra ‘Coppertone’. Its stiff, slightly curved structure almost seems forged by a blacksmith, and its raw, industrial look pairs particularly well with concrete pots and brick walls. For a more well known shape and color of sansevieria, commonly called the snake plant, see photo and photo—and for a twisted, braided spear sansevieria.
How to Share Your Sansevieria
Divide and conquer—tease new shoots apart from the parent plant. There should be natural sections that break away easily. If your plant resists division, use a sharp knife to divide into sections—just ensure that each clump has some roots attached. Replant each clump in a new pot with fresh potting mix, and water before placing it in its new home.
A thrilling spiller
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Bright to low
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep slightly moist; can let dry slightly between waterings
Fertilizer
Use monthly, only in spring and summer
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop
Once spiderettes form off the stems (as shown here), you can multiply your spider plant by leaving the spiderettes attached to the mother plant but placing the new growth in their own pots of soil with their nodes and roots touching the surface. Soon they’ll root, and you can either cut them free to share with friends or leave them attached to create a quirky web of growth jumping from pot to pot. You can also place the spiderettes back in the same pot as the mother plant to create a bountiful, overflowing feature.
The easygoing nature of the spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) landed it comfortably in the free-spirited movement of the 1970s, when it first rose to popularity cascading from macramé hangers and waving its verdant ribbons of foliage. Fast-forward a few decades and it’s still a staple in the home due to both its unique looks and the fact that it’s one of the most tolerant houseplants around.
Introducing a spider plant to your space is a great way to bring movement and playfulness to a room thanks to the plant’s fountain-like stature, with shoots spraying up from a central crown and showering down as unruly arching limbs. In addition to offering good looks, spider plants are among the top air-purifying plants for the home (for more air-cleaning options).
Pictured here is the classic cream-and-green-striped variegated spider plant (C. comosum ‘Variegatum’). If you’re looking for something with a bit more kick, go with the swirling leaves of the ‘Bonnie’ curly spider plant (C. comosum ‘Bonnie’). Whatever specimen you choose, place it in an area with abundant empty space (a shelving unit works perfectly) to allow it to stretch and show off its bountiful assets. In spring and summer, small white flowers called runners will emerge from the tips of upright wiry stems and turn into baby spider plants or “spiderettes” (see photo, above). Keeping your plant slightly root-bound by restricting its root growth in a small pot can encourage blooming.
Set it and forget it
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Varies (see individual species)
Soil
Cactus mix
Watering
Allow to dry before watering
Fertilizer
Use at half strength every few months, only in spring
Temperature
Average to warm
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
The succulent group is composed of an astronomically large collection of moisture-storing plants native to almost every part of the globe and appearing in myriad colors, shapes, and textures. Given the right conditions, succulents are some of the easiest plants to care for in the home (less water is more!) and can produce spectacular displays of color year-round. Here are a few of my favorites. For more succulents to consider.
1. Kalanchoe
From sprawling stems to fuzzy foliage, delicate flowers to contorted leaves, kalanchoe offer up a little of everything. Choose the paddle plant (Kalanchoe luciae), pictured, for a bold display on a small scale, or make an impact with the large, furry, fang-like leaves of Napoleon’s hat (K. beharensis), seen here. These guys like things sunny: keep in direct light in winter and bright light in summer.
2. Pencil Cactus
For a cleaner structure and added height go with a pencil cactus, sometimes referred to as a milk bush. The name “pencil cactus” is actually a misnomer—it’s not really a cactus but a euphorbia. Handle with care, though: they produce a white sap that can be toxic to humans and pets. Pictured is Euphorbia tirucalli ‘Sticks on Fire’, whose red tips change intensity with temperature and sun exposure (they do best in direct light).
3. Echeveria
The tight rosette leaves of echeveria are often what spring to mind when people think of succulents. With a wide array of colors and textures, echeveria provide containerfuls of mosaic texture. You’ll need a spot with at least three to four hours of direct to bright light a day to keep most specimens compact and healthy. (If the flat rosettes begin to elongate their “necks,” they’re reaching out for more light.) Pictured are the neat lavender-blush leaves of Echeveria ‘Lola’.
How to Share Your Succulents
Succulents, particularly echeveria, can be easily propagated since they form “pups” next to the mother plant. Simply cut off any pups and set them aside for a few days until the raw ends have callused over. Plant the stem or set the rosette in or on well-draining soil in moderate to bright light and allow to root.
Aka the “easy ZZ”
The Basics
Care Level
Easy
Light
Low to moderate
Soil
Potting mix
Watering
Keep slightly moist; can let dry slightly between waterings
Fertilizer
Use monthly; skip in winter
Temperature
Average
SIZE
Tabletop to floor
The ZZ, aka Zanzibar gem, Zamioculcas zamiifolia, is a tenacious houseplant. It offers a great way to dip your toes into the world of plants, especially for frequent travelers—its roots contain small reservoirs that feed the plant when it needs water. ZZs are also good for air purification (see more air-cleaning specimens), but note that they are toxic to humans and animals.
Because they are often found in dense, clumping masses of glossy foliage, it’s hard to appreciate the arching symmetry of each ZZ stem. Look for less-dense specimens like the one pictured; if you can’t find one, these plants are prime candidates for dividing and sharing (see box, below).
Keep the leaves shiny and healthy by wiping dust off every couple of weeks using a damp cloth. This will help them absorb the most benefits of any available light source. Although ZZs can accommodate a broad spectrum of light conditions, avoid direct sunlight (but don’t leave the poor guy in the dark—even tough plants like these need some light to survive). The only skill one needs to care for this plant is patience: it is incredibly slow growing (which is why a floor-size specimen may be on the pricier side).
How to Share Your ZZ Plant
You’ll need to be gung ho in your approach in dividing these plants—the denseness of the root-ball and tightness of the rhizomes require strategic division paths and sometimes even a pruning saw to convince the plant it wants to separate. Once you’ve manipulated the plant into desired sections, repot each in its own planter filled with potting mix and water. (See Dividing for an example of a divided ZZ.)