Westminster and the South Bank

This district is dominated by the Thames, an iconic symbol of the city. The river’s banks present two contrasting images.

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The north bank is lined, in general, with stately buildings connected with money, power and government and includes the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey. Here are buildings of political, historical and religious significance bringing a sense of stability to the city. Across the river, the South Bank has a very different flavour. Early theatre thrived here and Shakespeare’s reconstructed Globe Theatre is testament to this. After World War II this area of wasteland was given a makeover with the construction of the Royal Festival Hall and the Southbank Centre. To celebrate the Millennium, innovative attractions opened that are still major international draws.The revolving London Eye was intended as a temporary structure, like the Eiffel Tower; and Tate Modern, the stunning conversion of an old power station, is now the world’s most popular modern art museum.

BOROUGH MARKET

Fresh produce has been sold here for well over 700 years, but, in parallel with London’s renaissance as a foodie city, London’s oldest market has also enjoyed a dramatic rebirth. Join crowds tasting and sipping their way round 150 or so stalls crammed beneath railway arches. See the best British organic meats and cheeses, fresh fish and seafood, European delicacies, home-baked breads and cakes. Snack on samples or join the line for the grilled chorizo rolls at Brindisa, known for its Spanish produce; scoff cakes from Konditor & Cook; buy ‘the world’s best fudge’ at Burnt Sugar, made from Fairtrade, unrefined sugar.

www.boroughmarket.org.uk

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image Map Reference 21H image Southwark Street image 020 7407 1002 image Thu 11–5, Fri 12–6, Sat 9–4 image London Bridge

CLINK PRISON MUSEUM

From the early 16th century until 1780, the Clink, ‘a very dismal hole’, was the jail of the Bishops of Winchester, used to incarcerate the lowlife of Bankside – including prostitutes, drunks, debtors, and actors who had ‘broken the peace’. In fact it was so notorious that it entered the English language as a synonym for jail. Not that the bishop held the moral high ground. He acted effectively as protection racketeer and pimp, licensing, and profiting from, the various illegal activities that went on in the badlands of Bankside. You can learn all about these times at the Clink Prison Museum. Alongside, part of a wall with a great rose window is all that survives of the Bishop’s Palace, Winchester House, built in 1109.

www.clink.co.uk

image Map Reference 21H image 1 Clink Street image 020 7403 0900 image Mon-Fri 10–6, Sat, Sun 10–9 image Inexpensive image fish!, Cathedral Street, Borough Market (££) image London Bridge (10-min walk)

DESIGN MUSEUM

This was set up in 1989 as the brainchild of Britain’s leading design and style guru, Sir Terence Conran, to promote an awareness of the importance of design and the contribution it makes to everyday life. In a hip conversion of a banana warehouse, see objects that are both familiar and puzzling, weird and wonderful masterpieces from architecture to car design, fashion to furniture, bicycles to laptops, it is well worth a visit. The collection divides broadly into two parts. The more conventional historic part shows the design evolution of familiar workaday items, such as domestic appliances, cameras and cars. The Contemporary Design Gallery is an intriguing showcase for the very latest ideas; some currently in production, some at prototype stage, others stuck permanently on the drawing board. Interactive computer stations cater to a new generation of would-be designers. There’s a good shop and the stylish Design Museum Café.

www.designmuseum.org

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Photo Credit: photo PCL / Alamy

image Map Reference 24G image 28 Shad Thames image 0870 833 9955 image Daily 10–5:45. Closed 25–26 Dec (last admission 5:15) image Expensive image Café (£) image London Bridge, Tower Hill

HMS BELFAST

HMS Belfast is Europe’s last surviving big warship from World War II and occupies a spectacular permanent mooring site on the Thames just upstream from Tower Bridge. Launched in 1938, she saw action in the Arctic, at the D-Day Normandy landings and in the Korean War from 1950 to 1952. Today her seven decks, which once accommodated a crew of up to 800 men, serve as a museum, giving landlubbers a salty flavour of the rigours of serving at sea. The bridge, galley, operations room, punishment cells, engine and boiler rooms can all be explored. There are also various naval displays. Check out the exhibition Life at Sea.

www.iwm.org.uk

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image Map Reference 22H image Morgan’s Lane, off Tooley Street image 020 7940 6300 image Mar-Oct daily 10–6; Nov-Feb 10–5. Closed 24–26 Dec (last admission 1 hour before closing) image Expensive; children free image Café (£) image London Bridge, Tower Hill. Ferry from Tower Millennium Pierto London Bridge City Pier in summer

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT

Best places to see.

IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM

Dedicated to an account of world conflict during the 20th century, the Imperial War Museum has the most impressive entrance of any London museum. Suspended from the ceiling of its glass atrium and occupying two floors around the atrium are World War II fighter planes, biplanes from the Great War, a V2 rocket, a Polaris missile, field guns, tanks, submarines, plus over 40 other large exhibits. This is a thought-provoking museum, telling the story of war dispassionately, often from the point of view of the ordinary soldier or the folks left at home. The emphasis is on the two World Wars. Each has a large walk-in section where you can experience the horrors of the trenches or the claustrophobia of an air-raid shelter, then the aftermath of a bombing raid. Most harrowing is the The Holocaust exhibition, not considered suitable for children under 14.

The narrative collection is brilliantly chosen, containing many personal and everyday objects from the trenches, the concentration camps, the Far East, the Eastern Front, the Atlantic Ocean and all the significant theatres of war. These are combined with memorabilia such as recruiting posters, dramatic contemporary film footage and spoken first-hand accounts from ordinary combatants and survivors.

Conflicts since 1945 are also well handled and the Secret War Exhibition, detailing clandestine operations from World War I to the present day, is fascinating. The top floor features the gallery, Crimes Against Humanity, considered suitable for over 12s.

www.iwm.org.uk

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image Map Reference 19G image Lambeth Road image 020 7416 5000 image Daily 10–6. Closed 24–26 Dec image Free image Café (£) image Lambeth North, Elephant & Castle, Waterloo, Southwark

JEWEL TOWER

This solitary tower is one of the few remaining parts of the old Palace of Westminster. Built in 1366, it was used to house the personal valuables of Edward III and was known as the Royal Wardrobe. Today it makes an excellent introduction to the Houses of Parliament with an exhibition about their history and procedural practices. You can also take a ‘tour’ of Parliament on a multimedia touch-screen.

www.english-heritage.org.uk

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image Map Reference 12D image Old Palace Yard, Abingdon Street image 020 7222 2219 image Apr-Oct daily 10–5; Nov-Mar 10–4 image Inexpensive image Westminster Arms (£), Storey’s Gate image Westminster, St James’s Park

LONDON COUNTY HALL AND SEA LIFE LONDON AQUARIUM

In London’s former County Hall are several attractions for teenagers looking for a fun day out. The SEA LIFE London Aquarium is the capital’s major aquarium and has 14 themed zones, ending with the Shark Walk Finale, where you can walk across a glass floor looking down at the denizens of the deep. Namco Station has 150 interactive video games, 12 lanes of Techno Bowling and bumper cars; The Movieum goes behind the scenes in the film industry. Unashamedly scary is Fright Club, more educational are the Dali Universe, an exhibition dedicated to the Spanish Surrealist painter.

www.londoncountyhall.com; www.sealife.co.uk/london

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image Map Reference 16G image County Hall, Westminster Bridge Road image 0871 663 1678 image Aquarium: Mon-Fri 10–5, Sat, Sun 10–6 (last admission one hour before closing); other attractions: check website image Expensive image Café next door image Westminster

LONDON DUNGEON

‘Abandon hope all who enter here’ is the message of the London Dungeon, the world’s first and foremost museum of medieval (and other) horrors. It was begun in 1975 by a London housewife whose children were disappointed by the lack of blood and gore on display at the Tower of London. The dark tunnels beneath London Bridge now include many more blood-curdling special effects, with a ‘dark ride’ (in every sense) and costumed actors to enhance the scream factor. Ghouls and the curious, including most of London’s overseas teenagers, make this one of the capital’s most visited attractions, but this is definitely not a place for young children or the faint of heart.

www.thedungeons.com

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image Map Reference 22H image Tooley Street image 020 7403 7221 (general enquiries) image Varies year-round between 9:30 and 7. Check by phone. Closed 25 Dec image Very expensive image Butler’s Wharf Chop House (££) image London Bridge

LONDON EYE

This giant landmark wheel was erected as part of the capital’s Millennium celebrations and quickly became one of the hottest attraction tickets in town. Its 32 observation capsules soar majestically 135m (443ft) directly above the Thames, making it the tallest wheel of its kind in the world. A full revolution takes 30 minutes, offering magnificent views right across the heart of central London and far beyond.

A limited number of seats is available to those who show up in person (these are quickly snapped up); the rest are reserved by telephone. The best advice is to reserve well ahead. Boarding takes around 30 minutes.

www.londoneye.com

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image Map Reference 16G image Riverside Gardens, next to County Hall image 0870 500 0600 image May, Jun daily 10–9, Jul, Aug 10–9:30; Sep 10–9; Oct-Apr 10–8 image Expensive image Riverfront cafés image Waterloo

OXO TOWER

Built in 1930 for the Oxo food product company, this splendid art deco tower has long been a Thames landmark, but had fallen into such disrepair that demolition was likely. Lovingly restored, its huge illuminated red O X O trademark letters make it one of the most striking sights on the London night skyline. The tower houses exhibition spaces, restaurants (open daily), award-winning craft and designer shops and studios. There are panoramic views from the free 8th-floor public viewing gallery.

www.coinstreet.org

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image Map Reference 18J image Oxo Tower Wharf, Barge House Street, South Bank image 020 7401 1686 image Viewing gallery 11–10 image Free image Blackfriars, Waterloo

SHAKESPEARE’S GLOBE

For many, the highlight of a London visit during the summer months is watching a Shakespearean play in the sort of setting that the Bard himself might recognize: a circular theatre, open to the sky, built from oak and roofed with water reed thatch. Sit in the galleries, or, for an authentic, cheaper but more tiring experience, stand in the Yard for £5.

The Globe Exhibition, telling the story behind this remarkable project, features a major exhibition on the world of Shakespeare and includes a theatrical tour (year-round).

www.shakespeares-globe.org

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image Map Reference 20J image 21 New Globe Walk, Bankside image 020 7902 1400 image Daily 9–5. Closed 24–25 Dec image Bar (£), Brasserie (££) image Mansion House, Southwark, London Bridge image Expensive image Guided tours. Performances May-Oct image 020 7401 9919

SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL

Often overlooked by visitors, Southwark Cathedral boasts one of the oldest and most interesting church interiors in the capital. Construction began in 1220 and was finished some 200 years later (though most of its exterior features were remodelled much later). The nave retains some original stonework and fascinating 15th-century ornamental carvings – one depicts the devil swallowing Judas Iscariot. There are several grand monuments, the most notable being to the area’s most famous parishioner, William Shakespeare, who lived in Southwark from 1599 to 1611. His brother Edmund (died 1607) and other fellow dramatists are buried in the cathedral.

http://cathedral.southwark.anglican.org

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image Map Reference 21H image Cathedral Street image 020 7367 6700 image Daily 8–6 image Tour inexpensive image Café/restaurant (£) in refectory image London Bridge

TATE BRITAIN

Opened in 1897 as the National Gallery of British Art, Tate Britain is now one of four Tate galleries. What was originally a collection donated to the nation by sugar magnate Sir Henry Tate has mushroomed into the largest array of British art in the world, from the 16th century to the present day. This grand building is the original home of the collection; the other three galleries are Tate Modern, Tate Liverpool and Tate St Ives in Cornwall. Since entry is free, you can take your time. Rather than wander aimlessly, it might be worth choosing a favourite historic period or artist. Painters well represented include William Hogarth, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Thomas Gainsborough, William Blake and John Constable; the Clore Gallery features some 300 paintings by J M W Turner. Or look at more recent British stars, such as sculptors Barbara Hepworth and Henry Moore.

www.tate.org.uk/britain

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image Map Reference 11B image Millbank image 020 7887 8888 image Daily 10–5:50 (also first Fri in month 6pm-10pm). Closed 24–26 Dec image Free (charge for exhibitions) image Tate Britain Café (£); Rex Whistler Restaurant (£££) image 020 7887 8825 image Pimlico, Vauxhall image Free guided tours daily. Audio guides (inexpensive). Art Trolley activities for children (aged 5+) Sun 11–5. During gallery opening hours, the Tate Boat runs every 40 min between Tate Britain and Tate Modern

TATE MODERN

No museum has altered British attitudes to art more than Tate Modern, London’s first new museum for over a century. When it opened in 2000, some six million visitors explored what had been a disused power station. Instead of tearing it down, architects opened up the vast turbine hall that now houses ever-changing and always controversial exhibits. Now it is the most popular gallery of modern art in the world.

Although the bedrock of the Tate collection is British art, Tate Modern has one of the world’s finest collections of international modern and contemporary works since 1900. From the Fauves onwards, the list is dazzling, from Picasso and Matisse to Surrealists such as Dali, Magritte and Miro. Familiar works by Abstract Expressionists such as Jackson Pollock feature, as well as Pop Art by Lichtenstein and Warhol. Take a break in the top floor café with its views over the St Paul’s Cathedral and the Thames.

www.tate.org.uk/modern

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image Map Reference 20H image Bankside image 020 7887 8888 image Sun-Thu 10–6, Fri, Sat 10–10 (last admission 45 mins before closing) image Free image Tate Modern Café (£), Tate Modern Restaurant (£££) image Southwark, Mansion House, St Paul’s image Daily guided tours (free). Audio guides (inexpensive). Footbridge from St Paul’s Cathedral. During gallery opening hours, the Tate Boat runs every 40 min between Tate Modern and Tate Britain

WESTMINSTER ABBEY

Best places to see.

WESTMINSTER CATHEDRAL

Not to be confused with the more illustrious abbey of the same name, Westminster Cathedral is London’s principal Roman Catholic church. Its foundation is relatively modern: it was built between 1896 and 1903. The Byzantine campanile (accessible by elevator) is one of the capital’s lesser-known landmarks, towering some 83m (273ft) high and offering great views over central London. The cathedral interior is famous for some of the finest and most varied marble-work in the country, though it has never been completed and much of the huge nave ceiling still shows bare brickwork.

www.westminstercathedral.org.uk

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image Map Reference 10C image Victoria Street image 020 7798 9055 image Mon-Fri 7–7, Sat, Sun 8–7. Tower: Apr-Nov daily 9:30–12:30, 1–5; Dec-Mar Thu-Sun 9–5 image Cathedral free (donations appreciated); tower moderate image Victoria