Figueres • Cadaqués • Sitges • Montserrat
Four fine sights are day-trip temptations from Barcelona. Fans of Surrealism can combine a fantasy in Dalí-land by stopping at the Dalí Theater-Museum in Figueres (about two hours from Barcelona) and spending a day or two in the classy but sleepy port-town getaway of Cadaqués (pictured above, an hour from Figueres; note that the Salvador Dalí House in Cadaqués requires reservations to visit). For the consummate day at the beach, head 45 minutes south to the charming and free-spirited resort town of Sitges. Pilgrims with hiking boots head 1.5 hours into the mountains for the most sacred spot in Catalunya: Montserrat.
The town of Figueres (feeg-YEHR-ehs)—conveniently connected by train to Barcelona—is of sightseeing interest only for its Salvador Dalí Theater-Museum. In fact, the entire town seems Dalí-dominated. But don’t be surprised if you also find French shoppers bargain-hunting. Some of the cheapest shops in Spain—called ventas—are here to lure French visitors.
(See “Near Barcelona” map, here.)
Figueres is an easy day trip from Barcelona, or a handy stopover en route to France. It’s cheap and convenient to take a regional train to Figueres Station—they depart from Barcelona’s Sants Station or from the RENFE station at Metro: Passeig de Gràcia (hourly, 2-2.25 hours; €14.20 media distancia trains are 20 minutes faster than €10.60 regional trains). High-speed trains between Barcelona and France stop instead at the recently opened Figueres-Vilafant Station, on the other side of town. But even if you’re visiting Figueres on your way to Paris, it’s best to take the slower, regional train to Figueres Station in the morning, visit the museum, then go back to the same station to take a regional train to Cerbère, and from there catch the night train to Paris. For bus connections to Cadaqués, see here.
Arrival in Figueres: From Figueres Station, simply follow Museu Dalí signs (and the crowds) for the 15-minute walk to the museum.
This is the essential Dalí sight—and, if you like Dalí, one of Europe’s most enjoyable museums, period. Inaugurated in 1974, the museum is a work of art in itself. Ever the entertainer and promoter, Dalí personally conceptualized, designed, decorated, and painted it to showcase his life’s work. The museum fills a former theater and is the artist’s mausoleum (his tomb is in the crypt below center stage). It’s also a kind of mausoleum to Dalí’s creative spirit.
Dalí had his first public art showing at age 14 here in this building when it was a theater, and he was baptized in the church just across the street. The place was sentimental to him. After the theater was destroyed in the Spanish Civil War, Dalí struck a deal with the mayor: Dalí would rebuild the theater as a museum to his works, Figueres would be put on the sightseeing map...and the money’s been flowing in ever since.
Even the building’s exterior—painted pink, studded with golden loaves of bread, and topped with monumental eggs and a geodesic dome—exudes Dalí’s outrageous public persona.
Cost and Hours: €12; July-Sept daily 9:00-20:00; March-June and Oct Tue-Sun 9:30-18:00, closed Mon; Nov-Feb Tue-Sun 10:30-18:00, closed Mon; last entry 45 minutes before closing, tel. 972-677-500, www.salvador-dali.org. No flash photography. The free bag check has your belongings waiting for you at the exit.
Coin-Op Tip: Much of Dalí’s art is movable and coin-operated—bring a few €0.20 and €1 coins.
Self-Guided Tour: The museum has two parts: the theater-mausoleum and the “Dalí’s Jewels” exhibit in an adjacent building. There’s no logical order for a visit (that would be un-Surrealistic), and the museum can be mobbed at times. Naturally, there’s no audioguide. Dalí said there are two kinds of visitors: those who don’t need a description, and those who aren’t worth a description. At the risk of offending Dalí, I’ve written this loose commentary to attach some meaning to your visit.
Stepping through or around the courtyard, go into the theater (with its audience of statues) and face the stage—and Dalí’s unmarked crypt. You know how you can never get a cab when it’s raining? Pop a coin into Dalí’s personal 1941 Cadillac, and it rains inside the car. Look above, atop the tire tower: That’s the boat Dalí enjoyed with his soul mate, Gala—his emotional life preserver, who kept him from going overboard. When she died, so did he (for his last seven years). Blue tears made of condoms drip below the boat.
Up on the stage, squint at the big digital Abraham Lincoln, and president #16 comes into focus. Approach the painting to find that Abe’s facial cheeks are Gala’s butt cheeks. Under the painting, a door leads to the Treasures Room, with the greatest collection of original Dalí oil paintings in the museum. (Many of the artworks on the walls are prints.) You’ll see Cubist visions of Cadaqués and dreamy portraits of Gala. Crutches—a recurring Dalí theme—represent Gala, who kept him supported whenever a meltdown threatened.
When Salvador Dalí was asked, “Are you on drugs?” he replied, “I am the drug...take me.”
Labeled by various critics as sick, greedy, paranoid, arrogant, and a clown, Dalí produced some of the most thought-provoking and trailblazing art of the 20th century. His erotic, violent, disjointed imagery continues to disturb and intrigue today.
Born in Figueres to a well-off family, Dalí showed talent early. He was expelled from Madrid’s prestigious art school—twice—but formed longtime friendships with playwright Federico García Lorca and filmmaker Luis Buñuel.
After a breakthrough art exhibit in Barcelona in 1925, Dalí moved to Paris. He hobnobbed with fellow Spaniards Pablo Picasso and Joan Miró, along with a group of artists exploring Sigmund Freud’s theory that we all have a hidden part of our mind, the unconscious “id,” that surfaces when we dream. Dalí became the best-known spokesman for this group of Surrealists, channeling his id to create photorealistic dream images (melting watches, burning giraffes) set in bizarre dreamscapes.
His life changed forever in 1929, when he met an older, married Russian woman named Gala who would become his wife, muse, model, manager, and emotional compass. Dalí’s popularity spread to the US, where he (and Gala) weathered the WWII years.
In his prime, Dalí’s work became less Surrealist and more classical, influenced by past masters of painted realism (Velázquez, Raphael, Ingres) and by his own study of history, science, and religion. He produced large-scale paintings of historical events (e.g., Columbus discovering America, the Last Supper) that were collages of realistic scenes floating in a surrealistic landscape, peppered with thought-provoking symbols.
Dalí—an extremely capable technician—mastered many media, including film. An Andalusian Dog (Un Chien Andalou, 1929, with Luis Buñuel) was a cutting-edge montage of disturbing, eyeball-slicing images. He designed Alfred Hitchcock’s bigeye backdrop for the dream sequence of Spellbound (1945). He made jewels for the rich and clothes for Coco Chanel, wrote a novel and an autobiography, and pioneered what would come to be called “installations.” He also helped develop “performance art” by showing up at an opening in a diver’s suit or by playing the role he projected to the media—a super-confident, waxed-mustached artistic genius.
In later years, Dalí’s over-the-top public image contrasted with his ever-growing illness, depression, and isolation. He endured the scandal of a dealer overselling “limited editions” of his work. When Gala died in 1982, Dalí retreated to his hometown, living his last days in the Torre Galatea of the Theater-Museum complex, where he died of heart failure.
Dalí’s legacy as an artist includes his self-marketing persona, his exceptional ability to draw, his provocative pairing of symbols, and his sheer creative drive.
The famous Homage to Mae West room is a tribute to the sultry seductress. Dalí loved her attitude. Saying things like, “Why marry and make one man unhappy, when you can stay single and make so many so happy?” Mae West was to conventional morality what Dalí was to conventional art. Climb to the vantage point where the sofa lips, fireplace nostrils, painting eyes, and drapery hair come together to make the face of Mae West.
Dalí’s art can be playful, but also disturbing. He was passionate about the dark side of things, but with Gala for balance, he managed never to go off the deep end. Unlike Pablo Casals (the Catalan cellist) and Pablo Picasso (another local artist), Dalí didn’t go into exile under Franco’s dictatorship. Pragmatically, he accepted both Franco and the Church, and was supported by the dictator. Apart from the occasional sardana dance (see sidebar on here), you won’t find a hint of politics in Dalí’s art.
Wander around. You can spend hours here, wondering, is it real or not real? Am I crazy, or is it you? Beethoven is painted with squid ink applied by a shoe on a stormy night. Jesus is made with candle smoke and an eraser. It’s fun to see the Dalí-ization of art classics. Dalí, like so many modern artists, was inspired by the masters—especially Velázquez.
The former theater’s smoking lounge is a highlight, displaying portraits of Gala and Dalí (with a big eye, big ear, and a dark side) bookending a Roman candle of creativity. The fascinating ceiling painting shows the feet of Gala and Dalí as they bridge earth and the heavens. Dalí’s drawers are wide open and empty, indicating that he gave everything to his art.
Leaving the theater, keep your ticket and pop into the adjacent “Dalí’s Jewels” exhibit. It shows sketches and paintings of jewelry Dalí designed, and the actual pieces jewelers made from those surreal visions: a mouth full of pearly whites, a golden finger corset, a fountain of diamonds, and the breathing heart. Explore the ambiguous perception worked into the big painting titled Apotheosis of the Dollar.
Since the late 1800s, Cadaqués (kah-dah-KEHS) has served as a haven for intellectuals and artists alike. The fishing village’s craggy coastline, sun-drenched colors, and laid-back lifestyle inspired Fauvists such as Henri Matisse and Surrealists such as René Magritte, Marcel Duchamp, and Federico García Lorca. Even Picasso, drawn to this enchanting coastal haunt, painted some of his Cubist works here.
Salvador Dalí, raised in nearby Figueres, brought international fame to this sleepy Catalan port in the 1920s. As a kid Dalí spent summers here in the family cabin, where he was inspired by the rocky landscape that would later be the backdrop for many Surrealist canvases. In 1929, he met his future wife, Gala, in Cadaqués. Together they converted a fisherman’s home in nearby Port Lligat into their semi-permanent residence, dividing their time between New York, Paris, and Cadaqués. And it was here that Dalí did his best work.
In spite of its fame, Cadaqués is mellow and feels off the beaten path. If you want a peaceful beach-town escape near Barcelona, this is a good place. From the moment you descend into the town, taking in whitewashed buildings and deep blue waters, you’ll be struck by the port’s tranquility and beauty. Join the locals playing chess or cards at the cavernous Casino Coffee House (harborfront, with games and Internet access). Have a glass of vino tinto or cremat (a traditional rum-and-coffee drink served flambé-style) at one of the seaside cafés. Savor the lapping waves, brilliant sun, and gentle breeze. And, for sightseeing, the reason to come to Cadaqués is the Salvador Dalí House, a 20-minute walk from the town center at Port Lligat.
Reaching Cadaqués is very tough without a car. There are no trains and only a few buses a day.
By Car: It’s a twisty drive from Figueres (figure 45-60 minutes). In Cadaqués, drivers should park in the big lot just above the city—don’t try to park near the harborfront. To reach the Salvador Dalí House, follow signs near Cadaqués to Port Lligat (easy parking).
By Bus: Sarfa buses serve Cadaqués from Figueres (3/day, 1 hour, €6) and from Barcelona (2/day, 2.75 hours, €24). Bus info: Barcelona toll tel. 902-302-025, Cadaqués tel. 972-258-713, Figueres tel. 972-674-298, www.sarfa.com.
The TI is at Carrer Cotxe 2 (July-Sept Mon-Sat 9:00-21:00, Sun 10:00-13:00 & 17:00-20:00, shorter hours off-season plus closed for lunch, tel. 972-258-315, www.visitcadaques.org).
Once Dalí’s home, this house gives fans a chance to explore his labyrinthine compound. This is the best artist’s house I’ve toured in Europe. It shows how a home can really reflect the creative spirit of an artistic genius and his muse. The ambience, both inside and out, is perfect for a Surrealist hanging out with his creative playmate. The bay is ringed by sleepy islands. Fishing boats are jumbled on the beach. After the fishermen painted their boats, Dalí asked them to clean their brushes on his door—creating an abstract work of art he adored (which you’ll see as you line up to get your ticket).
The interior is left almost precisely as it was in 1982, when Gala died and Dalí moved out. See Dalí’s studio (the clever easel cranks up and down to allow the artist to paint while seated, as he did eight hours a day); the bohemian-yet-divine living room (complete with a mirror to reflect the sunrise onto their bed each morning); the phallic-shaped swimming pool, which was the scene of orgiastic parties; and the painter’s study (with his favorite mustaches all lined up). Like Dalí’s art, his home is offbeat, provocative, and fun.
Cost and Hours: €11; mid-June-mid-Sept daily 9:30-21:00; mid-Feb-mid-June and mid-Sept-early Jan Tue-Sun 10:30-18:00, closed Mon; closed early Jan-mid-Feb. Last tour departs 50 minutes before closing. No bags of any kind are allowed in the house; the baggage check is free.
Reservations: You must reserve in advance—call, use the website, or send email with specifics on the day and time you want to visit (tel. 972-251-015, www.salvador-dali.org, pllgrups@fundaciodali.org). In summer, book a week in advance. You must arrive 30 minutes early to pick up your ticket, or they’ll sell it.
Visiting the House: Only 8-10 people are allowed in (no large groups) every 10 minutes. Once inside, there are five sections, each with a guard who gives you a brief explanation in English, and then turns you loose for a few minutes. The entire visit takes 50 minutes. Before your tour, enjoy the 15-minute video that plays in the waiting lounge (with walls covered in Dalí media coverage) just across the lane from the house.
Getting There: Parking is free nearby. There are no buses or taxis. The house is a 20-minute, one-mile walk over the hill from Cadaqués to Port Lligat. (The path, which cuts across the isthmus, is much shorter than the road.)
$$ Hotel Llané Petit, with 32 spacious rooms (half with view balconies), is a small resort-like hotel with its own little beach, a 10-minute walk south of the town center (Db-€124 mid-July-Aug, €94 in shoulder season, €74 in winter, seaview rooms-about €30 more, breakfast-€12, air-con, elevator, Dr. Bartomeus 37, tel. 972-251-020, www.llanepetit.com, info@llanepetit.com). Reserve direct with this book for a free breakfast (not valid on weekends in high season and long weekends in shoulder season).
$ Hotel Nou Estrelles is a big, concrete exercise in efficient, economic comfort. Facing the bus stop a few blocks in from the waterfront, this family-run hotel offers 15 rooms at a great value (Db-€85-90 in high season, €60-74 in shoulder season, €55 in winter, extra bed-€10-15, breakfast-€7, air-con, elevator, Carrer Sant Vicens, tel. 972-259-100, www.hotelnouestrelles.com, reservas@hotelnouestrelles.com, Emma).
$ Hostal Marina is a cheap, low-energy place, with 27 rooms and a great location a block from the harborfront main square (high season: D-€55, Db-€90; low season: D-€40, Db-€50-60; balcony rooms-€10 extra, no breakfast, no elevator, Riera 3, tel. 972-159-091).
There are plenty of eateries along the beach. A lane called Carrer Miguel Rosset (across from Hotel La Residencia) also has several places worth considering. At Casa Anita, you’ll sit with others around a big table and enjoy house specialties such as calamares a la plancha (grilled squid) and homemade helado (ice cream). Finish your meal with a glass of sweet Muscatel (Calle Miquel Rosset 16, tel. 972-258-471, Joan and family).
Sitges (SEE-juhz) is one of Catalunya’s most popular resort towns. Because the town beautifully mingles sea and light, it’s long been an artists’ colony. Here you can still feel the soul of the Modernistas...in the architecture, the museums, the salty sea breeze, and the relaxed rhythm of life.
Today’s Sitges is a world-renowned vacation destination among the gay community. Despite its jet-set status, the Old Town has managed to retain its charm. With a much slower pulse than Barcelona, Sitges is an enjoyable break from the big city.
If you visit during one of Sitges’ two big festivals (St. Bartholomew on Aug 24 and St. Tecla on Sept 23), you may see teams of castellers competing to build human pyramids.
Southbound trains depart Barcelona from the Sants and Passeig de Gràcia stations (take Rodalies train on the dark-green line R2 toward Sant Vincenç de Calders, 4/hour, 40 minutes).
The Mon-Bus Company runs an easy and direct bus route from downtown Barcelona (with stops near the university and Plaça d’Espanya) that stops at Barcelona’s airport en route to Sitges (4/day, 55 minutes from Barcelona, 45 minutes from airport, www.monbus.cat).
The TI is a couple of blocks northwest of the train station (mid-June-mid-Sept Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00, mid-Sept-mid-June Mon-Sat 10:00-14:00 & 16:00-18:30, Sun 10:00-14:00 year-round, Sínia Morera 1, tel. 938-944-251, www.sitgestur.cat). Pick up the good map (with info on sights on the back) and brochures for any museums that interest you. The TI can also help you find a room.
From the train station, exit straight ahead (past a TI kiosk—open in summer) and walk down Carrer Francesc Gumà. When it dead-ends, continue right onto Carrer de Jesús, which takes you to the town’s tiny main square, Plaça del Cap de la Villa. (Keep an eye out for directional signs.) From here, turn right down Carrer Major (“Main Street”), which leads you past the old market hall (now an art gallery) and the town hall, to a beautiful terrace next to the main church (pictured at right). Poke into the Old Town or take the grand staircase down to the beach promenade.
Sitges basically has two attractions: its tight-and-tiny Old Town (with a few good museums) and its long, luxurious beaches.
Take time to explore the Old Town’s narrow streets. They’re crammed with cafés, boutiques, and all the resort staples.
The focal point, on the waterfront, is the 17th-century Baroque-style Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla Church. The terrace in front of the church will help you get the lay of the land.
As an art town, Sitges has seen its share of creative people—some of whom have left their mark in the form of appealing museums. Walking along the water behind the church, you’ll find two of the town’s three museums, which unfortunately will likely be closed for the next couple of years. When open, the Museu Maricel displays the eclectic artwork of a local collector, including some Modernista works, pieces by local Sitges artists, and a collection of maritime-themed works. The Museu Cau Ferrat bills itself as a “temple of art,” as collected by local intellectual Santiago Rusiñol. In addition to paintings and drawings, there’s ironwork, glass, and ceramics. Also on this square, you’ll see Palau Maricel—a sumptuous old mansion that’s sometimes open to the public for concerts in the summer (ask at TI). The third museum, which will remain open during the closure of the first two, is the Museu Romàntic. Offering a look at 19th-century bourgeois lifestyles in an elegant mansion, it’s a few blocks up (one block west of main square: Head out of the square on the main pedestrian street, then take the first right turn, to Sant Gaudenci 1). Inside, amidst gilded hallways, you’ll find a collection of more than 400 antique dolls (€3.50; July-Sept Tue-Sat 9:30-14:00 & 16:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-15:00; Oct-June Tue-Sat 9:30-14:00 & 15:30-18:30, Sun 10:00-15:00; closed Mon year-round; tel. 938-942-969).
Nine beaches, separated by breakwaters, extend about a mile southward from town. Stroll down the seaside promenade, which stretches from the town to the end of the beaches. Anyone can enjoy the sun, sea, and sand; or you can rent a beach chair to relax like a pro. The crowds thin out about halfway down, and the last three beaches are more intimate and cove-like. Along the way, restaurants and chiringuitos (beach bars) serve tapas, paella, and drinks.
If you walk all the way to the end, you can continue inland to enjoy the nicely landscaped Terramar Gardens (Jardins de Terramar; free, daily mid-June-mid-Sept 10:30-20:30, mid-Sept-mid-June 9:00-19:00).
Because it’s an in-demand resort town, hotel values are not much better here than in Barcelona (especially in summer). But if you prefer a swanky beach town to a big city, consider these options. Note that this is a party town, so expect some noise after hours (request a quiet room). I’ve listed peak-season prices (roughly mid-July-mid-Sept); these drop substantially off-season. The first one is on the beach, whereas the other two are old villas with colorful tile floors a few blocks into town.
$$ Hotel Celimar, with 25 small but modern rooms, occupies a classic Modernista building facing the beach (Db-€130-150, €20 extra for sea view, average price off-season-€90, check website for latest prices, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, Paseo de la Ribera 20, tel. 938-110-170, www.hotelcelimar.com, info@hotelcelimar.com).
$$ Hotel Romàntic is family-run, old-fashioned-elegant, and quirky. Its 78 rooms (including some in the annex, Hotel de la Renaixença) are nothing special, but the whole place feels classic and classy—especially the plush lounge and bar (S-€75, Sb-€85, D-€105, Db-€115, €10 extra for balcony, includes breakfast, no air-con or elevator, free Wi-Fi, Sant Isidre 33, tel. 938-948-375, www.hotelromantic.com, romantic@hotelromantic.com).
$$ El Xalet (as in “Chalet”) is of a similar vintage, with a little less style and lower prices. They have 11 rooms in the main hotel and another 12 in their annex, Hotel Noucentista, up the street—both in fine old Modernista buildings (Db-€100, €25 extra for suite, includes breakfast, air-con, free Wi-Fi, Carrer Illa de Cuba 35, tel. 938-110-070, www.elxalet.com, info@elxalet.com).
Montserrat—the “serrated mountain”—rockets dramatically up from the valley floor northwest of Barcelona. With its unique rock formations, a dramatic mountaintop monastery (also called Montserrat), and spiritual connection with the Catalan people and their struggles, it’s a popular day trip. This has been Catalunya’s most important pilgrimage site for a thousand years. Hymns explain how the mountain was carved by little angels with golden saws. Geologists blame nature at work.
Once upon a time, there was no mountain. A river flowed here, laying down silt that hardened into sedimentary layers of hard rock. Ten million years ago, the continents shifted, and the land around the rock massif sank, exposing this series of peaks that reach upward to 4,000 feet. Over time, erosion pocked the face with caves and cut vertical grooves near the top, creating the famous serrated look.
The monastery is nestled in the jagged peaks at 2,400 feet, but it seems higher because of the way the rocky massif rises out of nowhere. The air is certainly fresher than in Barcelona. In a quick day trip, you can view the mountain from its base, ride a funicular up to the top of the world, tour the basilica and museum, touch a Black Virgin’s orb, hike down to a sacred cave, and listen to Gregorian chants by the world’s oldest boys’ choir.
Montserrat’s monastery is Benedictine, and its 30 monks carry on its spiritual tradition. Since 1025, the slogan “ora et labora” (“prayer and work”) has pretty much summed up life for a monk here.
The Benedictines welcome visitors—both pilgrims and tourists—and offer this travel tip: Please remember that the most important part of your Montserrat visit is not enjoying the architecture, but rather discovering the religious, cultural, historical, social, and environmental values that together symbolically express the life of the Catalan people.
Barcelona is connected to the valley below Montserrat by a convenient train; from there, a cable car or rack railway (your choice) takes you up to the mountaintop. Both options are similar in cost and take about the same amount of time (hourly trains, 1.5 hours each way from downtown Barcelona to the monastery). For ticket options, see the sidebar. Driving or taking the bus round out your options.
By Train: Trains leave hourly from Barcelona’s Plaça d’Espanya to Montserrat. Take the Metro to Espanya, then follow signs for Montserrat showing a graphic of a train to the FGC (Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya) underground station. Once there, check the overhead screens to find the track for train line R5 (direction: Manresa, departures at :36 past each hour; additional departures Mon-Fri at 11:56, 13:56, 14:56, and 15:56).
You’ll ride about an hour on the train. As you reach the base of the mountain, you have two options: Get out at the Montserrat-Aeri station for the cable car, or continue another few minutes to the next station—Monistrol de Montserrat (or simply “Monistrol de M.”)—for the rack railway. (You’ll have to make this decision when you buy your ticket in Barcelona—see “Tickets to Montserrat” sidebar.) Hang on to your train ticket; you will need it to exit the FGC station when you return to Plaça d’Espanya.
Cable Car or Rack Train? For the sake of scenery and fun, I enjoy the little German-built cable car more than the rack railway. Departures are more frequent (4/hour rather than hourly on the railway), but because the cable car is small, you might have to wait for a while to get on. If you are afraid of heights, take the rack train. Paying the extra €5 to ride both isn’t worthwhile.
By Cable Car, at the Montserrat-Aeri Station: Departing the train, follow signs to the cable-car station (covered by your train or combo-ticket; 4/hour, 5-minute trip, daily March-Oct 9:40-14:00 &14:35-19:00, Nov-Feb 10:10-14:00 & 14:35-17:45—note the lunch break, www.aeridemontserrat.com). Because the cable car is smaller than the train, don’t linger or you may have to wait for the next car. On the way back down, cable cars depart from the monastery every 15 minutes; make sure to give yourself enough time to catch the Barcelona-bound trains leaving at :48 past the hour (don’t cut it too close, in case the cable car runs late).
By Rack Railway (Cremallera), at the Monistrol de Montserrat Station: From this station you can catch the Cremallera rack railway up to the monastery (covered by your train or combo-ticket; cheaper off-season, hourly, 20-minute trip, www.cremallerademontserrat.com). On the return trip, this train departs the monastery at :15 past the hour, allowing you to catch the Barcelona-bound train leaving Monistrol de Montserrat at :44 past the hour. The last convenient connection back to Barcelona leaves the monastery at 19:15 (Sat-Sun at 20:15). Confirm the schedule when you arrive, as specific times tend to change year to year. Note that there is one intermediate stop on this line (Monistrol-Vila, at a large parking garage), but—going in either direction—you want to stay on until the end of the line.
By Car: Once drivers get out of Barcelona (Road A-2, then C-55), it’s a short 30-minute drive to the base of the mountain, then a 10-minute series of switchbacks to the actual site (where you can find parking for €5/day). It may be easier to park your car down below and ride the cable car or rack railway up; there is plenty of free parking at the Monistrol-Vila rack-railway station (cable car—€6.60 one-way, €10 round-trip; rack railway—€6 one-way, €9.50 round-trip, €12.90 version also includes Museum of Montserrat).
By Bus: One bus per day connects downtown Barcelona directly to the monastery at Montserrat (departs from Carrer de Viriat near Barcelona’s Sants Station daily at 9:15, returns from the monastery to Barcelona at 18:00 June-Sept or at 17:00 Oct-May, €6 each way, 1.25- to 1.5-hour trip depending on traffic, operated by Autocares Julià, www.autocaresjulia.es). You can also take a four-hour bus tour offered by the Barcelona Guide Bureau (€47, leaves Mon-Sat at 15:00 from Plaça Catalunya; see here). However, since the other options are scenic, fun, and relatively easy, the only reason to take a bus is to avoid transfers.
When you arrive at the base of the mountain, look up the rock face to find the cable-car line, the monastery near the top, and the tiny building midway up (marking the Sacred Cave).
However you make your way up to the Montserrat monastery, it’s easy to get oriented once you arrive at the top. Everything is within a few minutes’ walk of your entry point. All of the transit options—including the rack railway and cable car—converge at the big train station. Above those are both funicular stations: one up to the ridgetop, the other down to the Sacred Cave trail. Across the street is the TI, and above that (either straight up the stairs, or up the ramp around the left side) is the main square. To the right of the station, a long road leads along the cliff to the parking lot; a humble farmers’ market along here sells mel y mató, a characteristic Catalan cheese with honey.
Crowd-Beating Tips: Arrive early or late, as tour groups mob the place midday. Crowds are less likely on weekdays and worst on Sundays.
The square below the basilica houses a helpful TI, right across from the rack railway station (daily from 9:00, closes just after last train heads down—roughly 18:45, or 20:15 on weekdays in July-Aug, tel. 938-777-701, www.montserratvisita.com). Pick up the free map and get your questions answered. A good audioguide, available only at the TI, describes the general site and basilica (€6 includes book; €14 includes entrance to museum, bland audiovisual presentation, and book). If you’re a hiker, ask for the handout outlining hiking options here. Trails offer spectacular views (on clear days) to the Mediterranean and even (on clearer days) to the Pyrenees.
The audiovisual center (upstairs from the TI) provides some cultural and historical perspective—and an entrance to their big gift shop. The lame interactive exhibition—nowhere near as exciting as the mountains and basilica outside—includes computer touch screens and a short 20-minute video in English. Learn about the mountain’s history, and get a glimpse into the daily lives of the monastery’s resident monks (€5, covered by Trans Montserrat and Tot Montserrat combo-tickets, same hours as TI).
From the main square in front of the basilica complex, face the main facade and take this spin tour. Like a good pilgrim, face Mary, the high-up centerpiece of the facade. Below her to the left is St. Benedict, the sixth-century monk who established the rules that came to govern Montserrat’s monastery. St. George, the symbol of Catalunya, is on the right (amid victims of Spain’s civil war).
Five arches line the base of the facade. The one on the far right leads pilgrims to the high point of any visit, the Black Virgin (a.k.a. La Moreneta). The center arch leads into the basilica’s courtyard, and the arch second from left directs you to a small votive chapel filled with articles representing prayer requests or thanks.
Now look left of the basilica, where delicate arches mark the 15th-century monks’ cloister. The monks have planted four trees here, hoping to harvest only their symbolism (palm = martyrdom, cypress = eternal life, olive = peace, and laurel = victory). Next to the trees are a public library and a peaceful reading room. The big archway is the private entrance to the monastery. Still turning to your left, then comes the modern hotel and, below that, the glass-fronted museum. Other buildings provide cells for pilgrims. The Sant Joan funicular lifts hikers up to the trailhead (you can see the tiny building at the top). From there you can take a number of fine hikes (described later). Another funicular station descends to the Sacred Cave. And, finally, five arches separate statues of founders of the great religious orders. Step over to the arches for a commanding view (on a clear day) of the Llobregat River, meandering all the way to the Mediterranean.
Although there’s been a church here since the 11th century, the present structure was built in the 1850s, and the facade only dates from 1968. The decor is Neo-Romanesque, so popular with the Romantic artists of the late 19th century. The basilica itself is ringed with interesting chapels, but the focus is on the Black Virgin (La Moreneta) sitting high above the main altar.
Cost and Hours: Free, La Moreneta viewable Mon-Sat 8:00-10:30 & 12:00-18:30, Sun 19:30-20:15; church itself has longer hours and daily services (Mass at 11:00 at the main altar; at 12:00 and 19:30 in side chapels; vespers at 18:45); www.abadiamontserrat.net.
Visiting the Basilica: Montserrat’s top attraction is La Moreneta, the small wood statue of the Black Virgin, discovered in the Sacred Cave in the 12th century. Legend says she was carved by St. Luke (the gospel writer and supposed artist), brought to Spain by St. Peter, hidden away in the cave during the Moorish invasions, and miraculously discovered by shepherd children. (Carbon dating says she’s 800 years old.) While George is the patron saint of Catalunya, La Moreneta is its patroness, having been crowned as such by the pope in 1881. “Moreneta” is usually translated as “black” in English, but the Spanish name actually means “tanned.” The statue was originally lighter, but darkened over the centuries from candle smoke, humidity, and the natural aging of its original varnish. Pilgrims shuffle down a long, ornate passage leading alongside the church for their few moments alone with the Virgin (Keep an eye on the time if you want to see the statue; there are no visits Mon-Sat 10:30-12:00, or before 19:30 on Sun).
Join the line of pilgrims (along the right side of the church). Though Mary is behind a protective glass case, the royal orb she cradles in her hands is exposed. Pilgrims touch Mary’s orb with one hand and hold their other hand up to show that they accept Jesus. Newlyweds in particular seek Mary’s blessing.
If you’re not ushered right to the exit, immediately after La Moreneta, turn right into the delightful Neo-Romanesque prayer chapel, where worshippers sit behind the Virgin and continue to pray. The ceiling, painted in the Modernista style in 1898 by Joan Llimona, shows Jesus and Mary high in heaven. The trail connecting Catalunya with heaven seems to lead through these serrated mountains. The lower figures symbolize Catalan history and culture.
You’ll leave by walking along the Ave Maria Path (along the outside of the church), which thoughtfully integrates nature and the basilica. Thousands of colorful votive candles are all busy helping the devout with their prayers. Before you leave the inner courtyard and head out into the main square, pop in to the humble little room with the many votive offerings. This is where people leave personal belongings (wedding dresses, baby’s baptism outfits, wax replicas of body parts in need of healing, and so on) as part of a prayer request or as a thanks for divine intercession.
This bright, shiny, and cool collection of paintings and artifacts was mostly donated by devout Catalan Catholics. While it’s nothing really earth-shaking, you’ll enjoy an air-conditioned wander past lots of antiquities and fine artwork. Head upstairs first to see some lesser-known works by the likes of Picasso, El Greco, Caravaggio, Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Degas, John Singer Sargent, and some local Modernista artists. One gallery shows how artists have depicted the Black Virgin of Montserrat over the centuries in many different styles. There’s even a small Egyptian section, with a sarcophagus and mummy. Down on the main floor, you’ll see ecclesiastical gear, a good icon collection, and more paintings, including—at the very end—a Dalí painting, some Picasso sketches and prints, and a Miró.
Cost and Hours: €7, covered by Tot Montserrat combo-ticket, daily July-Aug 10:00-18:45, Sept-June 10:00-17:45, tel. 938-777-745.
This funicular climbs 820 feet above the monastery in five minutes. At the top of the funicular, you are at the starting point of a 20-minute walk that takes you to the Sant Joan Chapel (follow sign for Ermita de St. Joan). Other hikes also begin at the trailhead by the funicular (get details from TI before you ascend; basic map with suggested hikes posted by upper funicular station). For a quick and easy chance to get out into nature and away from the crowds, simply ride up and follow the most popular hike, a 45-minute mostly downhill loop through mountain scenery back to the monastery. To take this route, go left from the funicular station; the trail—marked Monestir de Montserrat—will first go up to a rocky crest before heading downhill.
Cost and Hours: Funicular—€5.35 one-way, €8.45 round-trip, covered by Trans Montserrat and Tot Montserrat combo-tickets, goes every 20 minutes, more often with demand.
The Moreneta was originally discovered in the Sacred Cave (or Sacred Grotto), a 40-minute hike down from the monastery (then another 50 minutes back up). The path (c. 1900) was designed by devoted and patriotic Modernista architects, including Gaudí and Josep Puig i Cadafalch. It’s lined with Modernista statues depicting scenes corresponding to the Mysteries of the Rosary. While the original Black Virgin statue is now in the basilica, a replica sits in the cave. A three-minute funicular ride cuts 20 minutes off the hike. If you’re here late in the afternoon, check the schedule before you head into the Sacred Cave to make sure you don’t miss the final ride back down the mountain. Missing the last funicular could mean catching a train back to Barcelona later than you had planned.
Cost and Hours: Funicular—€2.15 one-way, €3.30 round-trip, covered by Trans Montserrat and Tot Montserrat combo-tickets, goes every 20 minutes, more often with demand.
Montserrat’s Escolania, or Choir School, has been training voices for centuries. Fifty young boys, who live and study in the monastery itself, make up the choir, which performs daily except Saturday. The boys sing for only 10 minutes, the basilica is jam-packed, and it’s likely you’ll see almost nothing. Also note that if you attend the evening performance, you’ll miss the last train or cable-car ride down the mountain.
Cost and Hours: Free, Mon-Fri at 13:00, Sun at 12:00, and Sun-Thu at 18:45, choir on vacation late June-late Aug.
An overnight here gets you monastic peace and a total break from the modern crowds. There are ample rustic cells for pilgrim visitors, but tourists might prefer this place:
$$ Hotel Abat Cisneros, a three-star hotel with 82 rooms and all the comforts, is low-key and appropriate for a sanctuary (Sb-€44-67, Db-€77-116, price depends on season, includes breakfast, half- and full-board available, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, tel. 938-777-701, www.montserratvisita.com, reserves@larsa-montserrat.com).
Montserrat is designed to feed hordes of pilgrims and tourists. You’ll find a cafeteria along the main street (across from the train station) and a grocery store and bar with simple sandwiches where the road curves on its way up to the hotel. In the other direction, follow the covered walkway below the basilica to reach the Mirador dels Apòstols, with a bar, cafeteria, restaurant, and picnic area. The Hotel Abat Cisneros also has a restaurant. The best option is to pack a picnic from Barcelona, especially if you plan to hike.