St-Jean-de-Luz / Donibane Lohizune
Villages in the French Basque Country
Compared to their Spanish cousins across the border, the French Basques seem French first and Basque second. You’ll see less Euskara writing here than in Spain, but these destinations have their own special spice, mingling Basque and French influences with beautiful rolling countryside and gorgeous beaches.
Just 45 minutes apart by car, San Sebastián and St-Jean-de-Luz bridge the Spanish and French Basque regions. Between them you’ll find the functional towns of Irún (Spain) and Hendaye (France), and the delightful hill town of Hondarribia, which is worth a visit if you have time to spare (see here).
My favorite home base here is the central, comfy, and manageable resort village of St-Jean-de-Luz. It’s a stone’s throw to Bayonne (with its “big-city” bustle and good Basque museum) and the snazzy beach town of Biarritz. A drive inland rewards you with a panoply of adorable French Basque villages. And St-Jean-de-Luz is a relaxing place to “come home” to, with its mellow ambience, fine strolling atmosphere, and good restaurants.
St-Jean-de-Luz (san zhahn-duh-looz) sits cradled between its small port and gentle bay. The days when whaling, cod fishing, and pirating made it wealthy are long gone, but don’t expect a cute Basque backwater. Tourism has become the economic mainstay, and it shows. Pastry shops serve Basque specialties, and store windows proudly display berets (a Basque symbol). Ice-cream lickers stroll traffic-free streets, while soft, sandy beaches tempt travelers to toss their itineraries into the bay. The knobby little mountain La Rhune towers above the festive scene. Locals joke that if it’s clear enough to see La Rhune’s peak, it’s going to rain, but if you can’t see it, it’s raining already.
The town has little of sightseeing importance, but it’s a good base for exploring the Basque Country and a convenient beach and port town that provides the most enjoyable dose of Basque culture in France. The town fills with French tourists in July and August—especially the first two weeks of August, when it’s practically impossible to find a room without a reservation made long in advance...or even walk down the main street.
St-Jean-de-Luz’s old city lies between the train tracks, the Nivelle River, and the Atlantic. The main traffic-free street, Rue Gambetta, channels walkers through the center, halfway between the train tracks and the ocean. The small town of Ciboure, across the river, holds nothing of interest.
The only sight worth entering in St-Jean-de-Luz is the church where Louis XIV and Marie-Thérèse tied the royal knot (Eglise St. Jean-Baptiste, described later). St-Jean-de-Luz is best appreciated along its pedestrian streets, lively squares, and golden, sandy beaches. With nice views and walking trails, the park at the far eastern end of the beachfront promenade at Pointe Ste. Barbe makes a good walking destination.
The helpful TI is next to the big market hall, along the busy Boulevard Victor Hugo (July-Aug Mon-Sat 9:00-19:30, Sun 10:00-13:00 & 15:00-19:00; Sept-June Mon-Sat 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-13:00—except Jan-March, when it’s closed Sun; 20 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 05 59 26 03 16, town info: www.saint-jean-de-luz.com, regional info: www.terreetcotebasques.com).
By Train or Bus: From the train station, the pedestrian underpass leads to the bus station. From there, it’s easy to get to the TI and the center of Old Town (just a few blocks away—see map).
By Car: Follow signs for Centre-Ville, then Gare and Office de Tourisme. The Old Town is not car-friendly. Its one-way lanes cut back and forth across pedestrian streets—your best bet may be paying to park in the big underground garage behind the TI (€1.20/hour, €11/day). For other parking options, ask your hotelier or the TI.
By Plane: The nearest airport is Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne Airport, 10 miles to the northeast near Biarritz. The tiny airport is easy to navigate, with a useful TI desk (airport code: BIQ, airport tel. 05 59 43 83 83, www.biarritz.aeroport.fr). To reach St-Jean-de-Luz, you can take a public bus (€3, 7/day, 30 minutes, tel. 05 59 26 06 99, www.transports-atcrb.com) or a 20-minute taxi ride (about €30).
Market Days: Tuesday and Friday mornings (and summer Saturdays), the farmers’ stands spill through the streets from Les Halles covered market on Boulevard Victor Hugo, and seem to give everyone a rustic whiff of “life is good.”
Supermarkets: There are three Petit Casino groceries. One is across from the market hall next to the TI, and another is on Boulevard Victor Hugo near the recommended Hôtel Le Petit Trianon (Mon-Tue and Thu-Sat 8:30-13:00 & 15:30-19:30, Sun 9:00-13:00 & 16:30-19:30, closed Wed). Yet another, at the east end of Rue Gambetta, is smaller (open Wed but closed Sun).
Internet Access: The TI has free Wi-Fi. if you need a computer, your best bet is Internet World, run by friendly Irish expats Margaret and Peter (July-Aug Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, closed Sun; Sept-June daily 10:00-13:00 & 15:00-18:00; 7 Rue Tourasse, tel. 05 59 26 86 92).
Laundry: Laverie Automatique du Port is at 4 Boulevard Thiers (self-service €5.20/load, daily 7:00-21:00, change machine; full-service available Tue-Fri 9:30-12:30 & 14:30-18:00; mobile 06 80 06 48 36).
Car Rental: Avis, at the train station, is handiest (Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-18:00, closed Sun, tel. 05 59 26 79 66).
A little tourist train does a 30-minute trip around town (€5.50, departs every 45 minutes from the port, runs April-Oct 10:30-19:00, no train Nov-March, mobile 06 85 70 72 85). It’s only worth the money if you need to rest your feet.
Le Basque Bondissant runs popular day-trip excursions, including a handy jaunt to the Guggenheim Bilbao (€35 round-trip, includes €13 museum admission, Wed only, departs 9:30 from green bus terminal across the street from train station, returns 19:30). Other itineraries include Ainhoa, Espelette, St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Loyola and the Cantabrian coast, San Sebastián, and a trip to the ventas (discount stores in the foothills of the Pyrenees). You can get information and buy tickets at the TI, or visit the Le Basque Bondissant office in the bus station (Mon-Fri 8:45-12:00 & 13:30-17:30 except closed Wed afternoon, closed Sat-Sun, tel. 05 59 26 30 74, www.basque-bondissant.com). Advance reservations are recommended in winter, when trips are canceled if not enough people sign up.
Le Passeur, at the port, offers mini-Atlantic cruises and fishing excursions (May-Sept, no guides; cruises-€10/45 minutes, €17/1.75 hours; fishing trips-€35; tickets sold on boat, mobile 06 09 73 61 81).
To get a feel for the town, take this hour-long self-guided stroll. You’ll start at the port and make your way to the historic church.
Port: Begin at the little working port (at Place des Corsaires, just beyond the parking lot). Pleasure craft are in the next port over, in Ciboure. Whereas fishing boats used to catch lots of whales and anchovies, now they take in sardines and tuna—and take out tourists on joyrides. Anchovies, once a big part of the fishing business, were overfished nearly into extinction, so they’ve been protected by the EU for the last few years (though now some limited fishing is permitted).
St-Jean-de-Luz feels cute and nonthreatening now, but in the 17th century it was home to the Basque Corsairs. With the French government’s blessing, these pirates who worked the sea—and enriched the town—moored here.
• After you walk the length of the port, on your right is the tree-lined...
Place Louis XIV: The town’s main square, named for the king who was married here, is a hub of action that serves as the town’s communal living room. During the summer, the bandstand features traditional Basque folk music and dancing at 21:00 (almost nightly July-Aug, otherwise Sun and Wed). Facing the square is the City Hall (Herriko Etchea) and the House of Louis XIV (he lived here for 40 festive days in 1660). A visit to this house is worthwhile only if you like period furniture, though it’s only open for part of the year; the rest of the time the privately owned mansion is occupied by the same family that’s had it for over three centuries (€5, June-mid-Oct Wed-Mon, closed Tue and mid-Oct-July, visits by 40-minute guided tour only, 2-4/day, in French with English handouts, tel. 05 59 26 27 58, www.maison-louis-xiv.fr).
In keeping with their seafaring, shipbuilding, and metalworking heritage, Basque sports are often feats of strength: Who can lift the heaviest stone? Who can row the fastest and farthest?
But the most important Basque sport of all is pelota—similar to what you might know as jai alai. Players in white pants and red scarves or shirts use a long, hook-shaped wicker basket (called a txistera in Euskara) to whip a ball (smaller and far bouncier than a baseball) back and forth off walls at more than 150 miles per hour. This men’s-only game can be played with a wall at one or both ends of the court. Most matches are not professional, but betting on them is common. It can also be played without a racket—this handball version is used as a starter game for kids. Children use a bouncy rubber ball, while adults use a ball with a wooden center that’s rather rough on the hands and needs a lot of strength to keep moving.
It seems that every small Basque town has two things: a church and a pelota court (called frontón). While some frontóns are simple and in poor repair, others are freshly painted as a gleaming sign of local pride.
The TI in St-Jean-de-Luz sells tickets and has a schedule of matches throughout the area; you’re more likely to find a match in summer (almost daily at 21:00 July-mid-Sept, afternoon matches sometimes on Sat-Sun). Matches are held throughout the year (except for winter) in the villages (ask for details at TI). The professional cesta punta matches on Tuesdays and Fridays often come with Basque folkloric halftime shows.
The king’s visit is memorialized by a small black equestrian statue at the entrance of the City Hall (a miniature of the huge statue that marks the center of the Versailles courtyard). The plane trees, with truncated branches looking like fists, are cut back in the winter so that in the summer they’ll come back with thick, shady foliage.
• Opposite the port on the far side of the square is...
Rue de la République: This historic lane leads from Place Louis XIV to the beach. Once the home of fishermen, today it’s lined with mostly edible temptations. Facing the square, Maison Adam still uses the family recipe to bake the macaroons Louis XIV enjoyed during his visit (at #6; look for the gigantic display of plastic red peppers, and then go next door for their sweets). You can buy one (€1), or sample a less historic but just as tasty gâteau basque, a baked tart with a cream or cherry filling.
Don’t eat your dessert just yet, though, because farther down Rue de la République you’ll find Pierre Oteiza, stacked with rustic Basque cheeses and meats from mountain villages (with a few samples generally out for the tasting, and handy €3.50 paper cones of salami or cheese slices—perfect for munching during this walk; closed 13:00-14:00).
You’ll likely eat on this lane tonight. The recommended Le Kaiku, the town’s top restaurant, fills the oldest building in St-Jean-de-Luz (with its characteristic stone lookout tower), dating from the 1500s. This was the only building on the street to survive a vicious 1558 Spanish attack. Each end of the street is flanked by a cannon, which may be from Basque pirate ships. At the upper end of the street, notice the photo of fisherwomen with baskets on their heads, who would literally run to Bayonne to sell their fresh fish.
• Continue to the...
Beach: A high embankment protects the town from storm waters, but generally the Grande Plage—which is lovingly groomed daily—is the peaceful haunt of sun-seekers, soccer players, and happy children. Walk the elevated promenade (to the right). Various tableaux tell history in French. Storms (including a particularly disastrous one in 1749) routinely knocked down buildings. Repeated flooding around 1800 drove the population down by two-thirds. Finally, in 1854, Napoleon III—who had visited here and appreciated the town—began building the three breakwaters you see today. Decades were spent piling 8,000 fifty-ton blocks, and by 1895 the town was protected. To develop their tourist trade, they built a casino and a fine hotel, and even organized a special getaway train from Paris. During those days there were as many visitors as residents (3,000).
• Stroll through the seaside shopping mall fronting the late-Art-Deco-style La Pergola, which houses a casino and the Hélianthal spa center (entrance around back) and overlooks the beach. Anyone in a white robe strolling the beach is from the spa. Beyond La Pergola is the pink, Neo-Romantic Grand Hôtel (c. 1900), with an inviting terrace for an expensive coffee break (€7 cappuccino). From here circle back into town along Boulevard Thiers until you reach the bustling...
Rue Gambetta: Turn right at the green cross and circle back to your starting point, following the town’s lively pedestrian shopping street. You’ll notice many stores selling the renowned linge Basque—cotton linens such as tablecloths, napkins, and dishcloths, in the characteristic Basque red, white, and green. There are as many candy shops as there are tourists. Keep an eye open for a local branch of the British auction house Christie’s, which specializes in high-end real estate. Video screens in the window advertise French castles for a mere €2 million, while local vacation homes go for considerably less.
• Just before Place Louis XIV, you’ll see the town’s main church.
Eglise St. Jean-Baptiste: The marriage of Louis XIV and Marie-Thérèse put St-Jean-de-Luz on the map, and this church is where it all took place. The ultimate in political marriages, the knot tied between Louis XIV and Marie-Thérèse in 1660 also cinched a reconciliation deal between Europe’s two most powerful countries. The king of Spain, Philip IV—who lived in El Escorial palace—gave his daughter in marriage to the king of France, who lived in Versailles. This marriage united Europe’s two largest palaces, which helped end a hundred years of hostility and forged an alliance that enabled both to focus attention on other matters (like England). Little St-Jean-de-Luz was selected for its 15 minutes of fame because it was roughly halfway between Madrid and Paris, and virtually on the France-Spain border. The wedding cleared out both Versailles and El Escorial palaces, as anyone who was anyone attended this glamorous event.
The church, centered on the pedestrian street Rue Gambetta, seems modest enough from the exterior...but step inside (Mon-Sat 8:00-12:00 & 14:00-18:30, Sun 8:00-12:00 & 15:00-19:30). The local expertise was in shipbuilding, so the ceiling resembles the hull of a ship turned upside down. The dark wood balconies running along the nave segregated the men from the women and children (men went upstairs until the 1960s, as they still do in nearby villages) and were typical of Basque churches. The number of levels depended on the importance of the church, and this church, with three levels, is the largest Basque church in France.
The three-foot-long paddle-wheel ship hanging in the center was a gift from Napoleon III’s wife, Eugènie. It’s a model of an ill-fated ship that had almost sunk just offshore when she was on it. The 1670 Baroque altar feels Franco-Spanish and features 20 French saints. Locals of this proud and rich town call it the finest in the Basque Country. The box seats across from the pulpit were reserved for leading citizens who were expected to be seen in church and set a good example. Today the mayor and city council members sit here on festival Sundays. The place has great acoustics, and the 17th-century organ is still used for concerts (around €10, mostly in summer, get schedule at TI or online at www.orgueluz.c.la, tickets available at door and possibly in advance at the TI).
As you leave the church, turn left to find the bricked-up doorway—the church’s original entrance. According to a quaint but untrue legend, it was sealed after the royal marriage (shown on the wall to the right in a photo of a painting) to symbolize a permanent closing of the door on troubles between France and Spain.
(€1 = about $1.30, country code: 33, * = French hotel rating system, 0-5 stars)
Hotels are a good value here. The higher prices are for peak season (generally July-Sept). In winter, some prices drop below those I’ve listed. Most hoteliers speak English, and breakfast is not included. Those wanting to eat and sleep for less will do slightly better just over the border, in San Sebastián.
$$$ Hôtel de la Plage*** has the best location, right on the ocean. Its 22 rooms, 16 with ocean views, have a lively yellow-and-blue modern nautical decor (Db-€89-119, ocean view Db-€119-169, family rooms for up to 5-€30 per extra person, breakfast-€11 but free for kids, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, garage-€15, 33 Rue Garat, tel. 05 59 51 03 44, www.hoteldelaplage.com, reservation@hoteldelaplage.com, run by friendly Pierre, Laurent, and Frederic).
$$$ Hôtel Les Almadies,*** on the main pedestrian street, is a bright boutique hotel with seven flawless rooms, comfy public spaces with clever modern touches, a pleasant breakfast room and lounge, an inviting sun deck, and a caring owner (Db-€100-135, higher prices are for rooms with tubs, buffet breakfast-€12, free Wi-Fi, parking-€10, 58 Rue Gambetta, tel. 05 59 85 34 48, www.hotel-les-almadies.com, hotel.lesalmadies@wanadoo.fr, Monsieur and Madame Hargous will charm you with their Franglish).
$$$ Hôtel Colbert,*** a Best Western, has 34 modern, tastefully appointed rooms across the street from the train station (Sb-€80-133, Db-€96-162, extra bed-€15, family room-€241-339, breakfast-€14, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, private parking-€20, 3 Boulevard du Commandant Passicot, tel. 05 59 26 31 99, www.hotelcolbertsaintjeandeluz.com, contact@hotelcolbertsaintjeandeluz.com).
$$ Hôtel Ohartzia** (“Souvenir”), one block off the beach, is comfortable, clean, and peaceful, with the most charming facade I’ve seen. It comes with 17 simple but well-cared-for rooms, generous and homey public spaces, and a delightful garden. Recently renovated, four rooms are 21st-century modern, and two have small, interior terraces. Higher prices are for the four rooms with tubs (mid-July-Sept Db-€85-91, March-mid-July Db-€75-79, Oct-Feb Db-€69-74, extra bed-€15, breakfast-€8, free Wi-Fi, 28 Rue Garat, tel. 05 59 26 00 06, www.hotel-ohartzia.com, hotel.ohartzia@wanadoo.fr). Their front desk is technically open only 8:00-21:00, but owners Madame and Monsieur Audibert (who speak little English) live in the building; their son Benoît speaks English well.
$$ Hôtel Le Petit Trianon,** on a major street a couple of blocks above the Old Town’s charm, is simple and traditional, with 25 tidy rooms and an accommodating staff (July-Sept Db-€88, Tb-€115, Qb-€150; April-June and Oct-mid-Nov Db-€73, Tb-€95, Qb-€120; even less off-season, air-con in most rooms, breakfast-€8, free Wi-Fi, limited parking-€10, 56 Boulevard Victor Hugo, tel. 05 59 26 11 90, www.hotel-lepetittrianon.com, lepetittrianon@wanadoo.fr). To get a room over the quieter courtyard, ask for côté cour (koh-tay koor).
St-Jean-de-Luz restaurants are known for offering good-value, high-quality cuisine. You can find a wide variety of eateries in the old center. For forgettable food with unforgettable views, choose from several places overlooking the beach. Most places serve from 12:15 to 14:00, and from 19:15 on. Remember, in France menu means a fixed-price, multicourse meal.
The traffic-free Rue de la République, which runs from Place Louis XIV to the ocean promenade, is lined with hardworking restaurants (two of which are recommended below). Places are empty at 19:30, but packed at 20:30. Making a reservation, especially on weekends or in summer, is wise. Consider a fun night of bar-hopping for dinner in San Sebastián instead (an hour away in Spain, described on here).
La Ruelle serves good, traditionally Basque cuisine—mostly seafood—in a convivial dining room packed with tables, happy eaters, and kitschy Basque decor. André and his playful staff obviously enjoy their work, which gives this popular spot a relaxed and fun ambience. They offer a free sangria to diners with this book. Portions are huge; their €20 ttoro (seafood stew) easily feeds two—splitting is OK if you order two starters (€20-25 menus, closed Tue-Wed Oct-May, 19 Rue de la République, tel. 05 59 26 37 80).
Le Kaiku is the gastronomic experience in St-Jean-de-Luz. They serve modern, creatively presented cuisine, and specialize in wild seafood (rather than farmed). This dressy place is the most romantic in town, but manages not to be stuffy (€25 lunch menus, €30 dinner menus, closed Tue-Wed except July-Aug, 17 Rue de la République, tel. 05 59 26 13 20, www.kaiku.fr, Serge and Julie). For the best experience, talk with Serge about what you like best and your price limits (about €55 will get you a three-course meal à la carte without wine).
Chez Maya Petit Grill Basque serves hearty traditional Basque cuisine. Their €18 ttoro was a highlight of my day. They have €21 and €30 menus, but à la carte is more interesting. If you stick around in warm weather, you’ll see the clever overhead fan system kick into action (closed for lunch Mon and Thu and all day Wed, 2 Rue St. Jacques, tel. 05 59 26 80 76).
Zoko Moko offers Mediterranean nouvelle cuisine, with artistic creations on big plates. Get an amuse-bouche (an appetizer chosen by the chef) and a mignardise (a fun bite-sized dessert) with each main plate ordered (€25 lunchtime plats, €43 evening menu, closed Mon, Rue Mazarin 6, tel. 05 59 08 01 23, www.zoko-moko.com, owner Charles).
Fast and Cheap: Consider the takeaway crêpe stands on Rue Gambetta. For a sit-down salad or a tart—either sweet or savory—consider Muscade Tarterie (€8-13 per slice; closed Mon; 20 Rue Garat, tel. 05 59 26 96 73).
Sweets: Maison Pariès is a favorite for its traditional sweets. Locals like their fine chocolates, tartes, macaroons, fudge (kanougas), and touron (like marzipan, but firmer), which comes in a multitude of flavors—brought by Jews who stopped here just over the border in 1492 after being expelled from Spain. The delectable chocolate version of the gâteau basque is also worth a try (9 Rue Gambetta, tel. 05 59 26 01 46).
The train station in St-Jean-de-Luz is called St-Jean-de-Luz-Ciboure. Its handy departure board displays lights next to any trains leaving that day. Buses leave from the green building across the street. There is reduced bus and rail service on Sundays and off-season.
From St-Jean-de-Luz by Train to: Bayonne (hourly, 25 minutes), St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (5/day, 6/day in summer, 2 hours with transfer in Bayonne), Paris (5/day direct via high-speed TGV, 5.5 hours; more with transfer in Bordeaux, 6 hours), Bordeaux (7/day, 2.5 hours), Sarlat (1/day, 2/day on weekends, 6-8 hours, transfer in Bordeaux), Carcassonne (1/day, 5 hours, transfers likely in Bayonne and Toulouse).
By Train to San Sebastián: First, take the 10-minute train to the French border town of Hendaye (Gare SNCF stop, about 10/day). Or get to Hendaye by bus (3/day, 35 minutes); check the schedule to see which leaves first.
Leave the Hendaye SNCF train station to the right, and look for the small building on the same side of the street, where you’ll catch the commuter EuskoTren into San Sebastián (usually 4/hour Mon-Fri, 2/hour Sat-Sun, runs 7:00-22:33, 35 minutes). Locals call this line the Topo (“Mole”), since part of it runs underground—although officially, it’s part of the new Metro Donostialdea system for San Sebastián.
By Bus: Buses leave from the bus station directly in front of the train station (cross the road by using the pedestrian underpass). All tickets are bought on the bus. A Spanish Pesa bus runs to San Sebastián (Mon-Sat only, 2/day direct—likely at 12:45 and 19:15, none on Sun, 1 hour, only 1/week off-season, info in Spain tel. 902-101-210, www.pesa.net). Local ATCRB bus #816 connects St-Jean-de-Luz either to Bayonne or Biarritz almost hourly. Confusingly, this one bus can run two different routes (one to Bayonne, the other to Biarritz Centre, 45 minutes to either one)—check the destination carefully. Bus #24 connects St-Jean-de-Luz to Sare (Mon-Fri 6/day, Sat 2/day, none Sun, 30 minutes, tel. 09 70 80 90 74, www.transports-atcrb.com).
By Excursion: If you’re without a car, consider using Le Basque Bondissant’s day-trip excursions to visit otherwise difficult-to-reach destinations, such as the Guggenheim Bilbao (see “Tours in St-Jean-de-Luz,” earlier).
By Taxi to San Sebastián: This will cost you about €75 for up to four people, but it’s convenient (tel. 05 59 26 10 11 or mobile 06 25 76 97 69).
A one-day side-trip to both Bayonne and Biarritz is easy from St-Jean-de-Luz. These three towns form a sort of triangle (depending on traffic, each one is less than a 30-minute drive from the other). Hop on the autoroute to Bayonne, sightsee there, then take D-810 into Biarritz. Leaving Biarritz, continue along the coastal D-810. In Bidart, watch (on the right) for the town’s proud frontón (pelota court) and stop for a photo of the quaint town hall. Consider peeling off to go into the village center of Guéthary, with another frontón and a massive town hall. If you’re up for a walk on the beach, cross the little bridge in Guéthary, park by the train station, and hike down to the walkway along the surfing beach (lined with cafés and eateries). When you’re ready to move on, you’re a very short drive from St-Jean-de-Luz.
To feel the urban pulse of French Basque Country, visit Bayonne—modestly but honestly nicknamed “your anchor in the Basque Country” by its tourist board. With frequent, fast train and bus connections with St-Jean-de-Luz, Bayonne makes an easy half-day side-trip.
Come here to browse through Bayonne’s atmospheric and well-worn-yet-lively Old Town, and to admire its impressive Museum of Basque Culture. Known for establishing Europe’s first whaling industry and for inventing the bayonet, Bayonne is more famous today for its ham (jambon de Bayonne) and chocolate.
Get lost in Bayonne’s Old Town. In pretty Grand Bayonne, tall, slender buildings, decorated in Basque fashion with green-and-red shutters, climb above cobbled streets. Be sure to stroll the streets around the cathedral and along the banks of the smaller Nive River, where you’ll find the market (Les Halles).
Bayonne’s two rivers, the grand Adour and the petite Nive, divide the city into three parts: St-Esprit, with the train station; and the more interesting Grand Bayonne and Petit Bayonne, which together make up the Old Town.
The TI is in a modern parking lot a block off the mighty Adour River, on the northeastern edge of Grand Bayonne. They have very little in English other than a map and a town brochure (July-Aug Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-18:00; March-June and Sept-Oct Mon-Fri 9:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-18:00, closed Sun; shorter hours in off-season; Place des Basques, tel. 08 20 42 64 64, www.bayonne-tourisme.com). There’s a pay WC in the rear.
By Train: The TI and Grand Bayonne are a 15-minute walk from the train station: Walk straight out of the station, cross the parking lot and traffic circle, and then cross the imposing bridge (Pont St. Esprit). Once past the big Adour River, continue across a smaller bridge (Pont Mayou), which spans the smaller Nive River. Stop on Pont Mayou to orient yourself: You just left Petit Bayonne (left side of Nive River); ahead of you is Grand Bayonne (spires of cathedral straight ahead, TI a few blocks to the right). The Museum of Basque Culture is in Petit Bayonne, facing the next bridge up the Nive River.
By Car or Bus: The handiest parking is also where buses arrive in Bayonne: next to the TI at the modern parking lot on the edge of Grand Bayonne. To reach the town center from here, walk past the war memorial and through the break in the ramparts. Follow the walkway until you reach a fancy gate that leads through a tunnel. After the tunnel, turn right at the next street; the cathedral should immediately come into view. Continue behind the cathedral and walk down, down, down any of the atmospheric streets to find Les Halles (the market) and the Nive River.
To reach this parking lot, drivers take the Bayonne Sud exit from the autoroute, then follow green Bayonne Centre signs, then white Centre-Ville signs (with an i for tourist information). You’ll see the lot on your right. Payment machines only accept coins for a maximum of two hours. In high season, when this lot can be full, use one of the lots just outside the center (follow signs to Glain or Porte d’Espagne as you arrive in town), then catch the little orange navette (shuttle bus) to get into the center (free, find route maps posted at stops in town, every 7 minutes, Mon-Sat 7:30-19:30, closed Sun).
Loaner Bikes: Although Bayonne’s sights are easily reached on foot (except the chocolate workshop), pedaling about by bike is simple and relaxing. The TI lends a limited number of orange bikes for free to adults during office hours (must leave passport or driver’s license and a €150 deposit, same hours and contact information as TI, www.cyclocom.fr).
Laundry: Laverie is just blocks from the cathedral (self-service €4/wash, daily 8:00-20:00, 6 Rue d’Espagne, tel. 05 59 59 54 03).
This museum (in Petit Bayonne, facing the Nive River at Pont Marengo) explains French Basque culture from cradle to grave—in French, Euskara, and Spanish. The only English you’ll read is “do not touch” (unless you buy their informative €5 English booklet). Artifacts and videos take you into traditional Basque villages and sit you in the front row of time-honored festivals, letting you envision this otherwise hard-to-experience culture.
Cost and Hours: €6.50, free first Sun of month; open July-Sept daily 10:00-18:30, Thu until 20:30; Oct-June Tue-Sun 10:00-18:30, closed Mon; last entry one hour before closing, 37 Quai des Corsaires, tel. 05 59 59 08 98, www.musee-basque.com.
Visiting the Museum: On the ground floor, you’ll begin with a display of carts and tools used in rural life, then continue past some 16th-century gravestones. Look for the laiak—distinctive forked hoes used to work the ground. At the end of this section you’ll watch a grainy film on Basque rural lifestyles.
The next floor up begins by explaining that the house (etxea) is the building block of Basque society. More than just a building, it’s a social institution—Basques are named for their house, not vice versa. You’ll see models and paintings of Basque houses, then domestic items, a giant door, kitchen equipment, and furniture (including a combination bench-table, next to the fireplace). After an exhibit on Basque clothing, you’ll move into the nautical life, with models, paintings, and actual boats. The little door leads to a large model of the port of Bayonne in 1805, back when it was a strategic walled city.
Upstairs you’ll learn that the religious life of the Basques was strongly influenced by the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail, which passes through their territory. One somber room explains Basque funeral traditions. The section on social life includes a video of Basque dances (typically accompanied by flute and drums). These are improvised, but according to a clearly outlined structure—not unlike a square dance.
The prominence given to the sport of pelota (see sidebar on here) indicates its importance to these people. One dimly lit room shows off several types of txistera baskets (chistera in French), gloves, and balls used for the game; videos show you how these items are made. The museum wraps up with a brief lesson on the region’s history from the 16th to the 20th centuries, including exhibits on the large Jewish population here (who had fled from a hostile Spain) and the renaissance of Basque culture in the 19th century.
Bankrolled by the whaling community, this cathedral sits dead-center in Grand Bayonne and is worth a peek. Find the unique keystones on the ceiling along the nave, then circle behind the church to find the peaceful and polished 13th-century cloisters.
Cost and Hours: Cathedral—free, Mon-Sat 10:00-11:45 & 15:00-17:45, Sun 15:30-18:00; cloisters—free, daily 9:00-12:30 & 14:00-17:00, until 18:00 mid-May-mid-Sept.
With no more whales to catch, Bayonne turned to producing mouthwatering chocolates and marzipan; look for shops on the arcaded Rue du Port Neuf (running between the cathedral and the Adour River). Daranatz is Bayonne’s best chocolate shop, with bars of chocolate blended with all kinds of flavors—one with a general mix of spices (lots of cardamom), one with just cinnamon, and another with piments d’Espelette (15 Arceaux Port Neuf, tel. 05 59 59 03 55, www.chocolat-bayonne-daranatz.fr). Cazenave, founded in 1854, is a fancy chocolaterie with a small café in the back. Try their foamy hot chocolate with fresh whipped cream on the side, served with buttered toast for €9 (Tue-Sat 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-19:00, closed Sun-Mon, 19 Arceaux Port Neuf, tel. 05 59 59 03 16, www.chocolats-cazenave.fr).
L’Atelier du Chocolat is a chocolate factory and boutique in an industrial part of town. You’ll see a detailed exhibit on the history and making of chocolate, some workers making luscious goodies (9:30-11:00 only), and a video. The generous chocolate tasting at the end is worth the ticket price for chocoholics.
Cost and Hours: €5.80, Mon-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, closed Sun, last entry 1.5 hours before closing, 7 Allée de Gibéléou, tel. 05 59 55 70 23, www.atelierduchocolat.fr.
Getting There: Take city bus #A2 from the TI or the Mairie stop across from the town hall (buy €1 ticket on board), get off at the Jean-Jaurès stop, walk under the railway bridge past the roundabout, and follow signs.
The ramparts around Grand Bayonne are open for walking and great for picnicking (access from park at far end of TI parking lot). However, the ramparts do not allow access to either of Bayonne’s castles—both are closed to the public.
(€1 = about $1.30, country code: 33, * = French hotel rating system, 0-5 stars)
$$$ Le Grand Hôtel*** is the best of the limited options in Bayonne—it’s well-located in Grand Bayonne, with all the comforts and a pleasant staff. While renovating their old building, the owners took care to maintain the original, classic decor (Sb-€75-160, Db-€81-166, breakfast-€13, elevator, free Wi-Fi, parking-€13, 21 Rue Thiers, tel. 05 59 59 62 00, www.bw-legrandhotel.com, infos@bw-legrandhotel.com, Caroline).
$$$ Ibis Styles Bayonne Gare Centre*** sits next to the Pont Saint Esprit near the train station. Some of its 45 white, bright rooms overlook the river (Sb-€86-116, Db-€96-135, Tb-€99-145, includes breakfast, elevator, parking-€8, 1 Place de la République, tel. 05 59 55 08 08, www.ibis.com, h8716@accor.com).
$$ Hôtel Côte Basque** is conveniently located by the train station in the Saint Esprit neighborhood, just across the river from the Old Town. It’s on a busy street, but the small-but-comfortable rooms have double-paned windows to cut the noise (Sb-€61-66, Db-€64-69, Tb-€71-76, breakfast-€10, elevator, free Wi-Fi, 2 Rue Maubec, tel. 05 59 55 10 21, www.hotel-cotebasque.fr, hotelcotebasque@orange.fr).
$$ Hôtel des Arceaux** is a family-run B&B-style establishment with 16 rooms on a small pedestrian street in Grand Bayonne. It’s just around the corner from the cathedral (Db-€66-76, breakfast-€7, free Wi-Fi, 26 Rue Port Neuf, tel. 05 59 59 15 53, www.hotel-arceaux.com, hotel.arceaux@wanadoo.fr).
The Grand Bayonne riverside has several tapas restaurants, a couple of easy bistrots, and a pizza place. The Petit Bayonne riverside has some bistrots and a few more proper sit-down restaurants. The pedestrian streets surrounding the cathedral in Grand Bayonne offer casual dining spots serving crêpes, tartines, quiches, and salads. Most places have outdoor tables in nice weather.
Le Bayonnais, next door to the Museum of Basque Culture, serves traditional Basque specialties à la carte. Sit in the blue-tiled interior or out along the river (€18 weekday lunch and dinner menu on weekdays, closed Sun-Mon, Quai des Corsaires 38, tel. 05 59 25 61 19).
La Cidrerie Txotx (pronounced “choch”) has a Spanish-bodega ambience under a chorus line of hams. You can also sit outside, along the river, just past the market hall (€8-10 Basque tapas or €12-19 plats, daily, 49 Quai Jauréguiberry, tel. 05 59 59 16 80).
A la Bolée serves up inexpensive sweet and savory crêpes in a cozy atmosphere along the side of the cathedral (daily, 10 Place Pasteur, tel. 05 59 59 18 75).
Le Chistera, run by a family that’s spent time in the US, proudly serves traditional Basque dishes made with market-fresh ingredients. Try the poulet with Basque sauce or one of their soups, and polish off your meal with homemade gâteau basque (€16 lunch menu, €25-30 dinners, Tue-Wed 12:00-14:00, Thu-Sun 12:00-14:00 & 19:30-21:00, closed Mon, 42 Rue Port Neuf, tel. 05 59 59 25 93, www.lechistera.com).
Café du Théâtre has pleasant outdoor tables by the river. Try it for a simple early breakfast (Place de la Liberté, tel. 05 59 59 09 31).
Picnic Supplies: If the weather’s good, consider gathering a picnic from the shops along the pedestrian streets, at Les Halles market (only open in the mornings), in the Casino minimart (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00 & 15:30-20:00, closed Sun, 38 Rue Port Neuf), or at the Monoprix (Mon-Sat 8:30-20:30, closed Sun, 8 Rue Orbe). Don’t forget the chocolate, then head for the park around the ramparts below the Jardin Botanique (benches galore).
Chronoplus buses run throughout the area regularly. Most lines run two to three times an hour from about 7:00 to 20:00, but are noticeably less frequent on Saturdays and even sparser on Sundays. Buy a €1 ticket on the bus; if you plan to ride twice or more in one day, buy the 24-hour ticket for €2 (tel. 05 59 52 59 52, www.chronoplus.eu).
From Bayonne by Bus to: BAB (Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne) Airport (2-3/hour, 15 minutes, line #C is best option), Biarritz (2-3/hour, fewer on Sun, 30 minutes, Chronoplus lines #A1 and #A2), and St-Jean-de-Luz (almost hourly, 45 minutes, ATCRB line #816, €3). Pick up BAB and Biarritz buses by the Mairie/Théâter stop on the riverside; catch the St-Jean-de-Luz bus from Place des Basques by the TI. Buses to the inland Basque villages of Espelette and Ainhoa are impractical.
By Train to: St-Jean-Pied-du-Port (5/day, 6/day in summer, 1.25 hours).
By Taxi to: Biarritz (20 minutes, about €30) and St-Jean-de-Luz (30 minutes, about €50—or more if traffic is heavy, tel. 05 59 59 48 48).
A glitzy resort town steeped in the belle époque, Biarritz (beeah-ritz) is where the French Basques put on the ritz. In the 19th century, this simple whaling harbor became, almost overnight, a high-class aristocrat-magnet dubbed the “beach of kings.” Although St-Jean-de-Luz and Bayonne are more fully French and more fully Basque, the made-for-international-tourists, jet-set scene of Biarritz is not without its charms. Perched over a popular surfing beach, anchored by grand hotels and casinos, hemmed in by jagged and picturesque rocky islets at either end, and watched over by a lighthouse on a distant promontory, Biarritz is a striking beach resort. However, for sightseers with limited time, it’s likely more trouble than it’s worth.
Biarritz feels much bigger than its population of 30,000. The town sprawls, but virtually everything we’re interested in lines up along the waterfront: the beach, the promenade, the hotel and shopping zone, and the TI.
The TI is in a little pink castle two blocks up from the beach (just above the beach and casino, hiding behind the City Hall—look for hôtel de ville signs). Pick up the free map and get details on any sightseeing that interests you (July-Aug daily 9:00-19:00; Sept-June Mon-Fri 9:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-17:00; Square d’Ixelles, tel. 05 59 22 37 00, www.biarritz.fr).
By Car: Drivers follow signs for Centre-Ville, then carefully track signs for specific parking garages. The most central garages are called Grande Plage, Casino, Bellevue, and St. Eugénie (closest to the water). Signs in front of each tell you whether it’s full (complet), in which case move on to the next one.
By Bus: Buses stop at “Biarritz Centre,” a parking lot next to the TI (buses to/from Bayonne stop along the side of the lot; buses to/from St-Jean-de-Luz stop at the end of the lot). If you’re taking a bus, be aware that some stop at the outskirts of town—only take one to “Centre.”
Don’t bother taking the train to or from Biarritz, as the station is about two miles from the tourist area (but if you must, bus #A1 connects the train station to the city center hourly, €1, buy ticket from driver).
There is no baggage storage in Biarritz.
There’s little of sightseeing value in Biarritz. The TI can fill you in on the town’s four museums (Marine Museum—described later; Chocolate Planet and Museum—intriguing, but a long walk from the center; Oriental Art Museum—large, diverse collection of art from across Asia; and Biarritz Historical Museum—really?).
Your time is best spent strolling along the various levels that climb up from the sea. (Resist the urge to check out the pebble beach for now.) From the TI, you can do a loop: First head west on the lively pedestrian streets that occupy the plateau above the water, which are lined with restaurants, cafés, and high-class, resorty window-shopping. (Place Georges Clemenceau is the grassy “main square” of this area.) Biarritz is picnic-friendly, with beaucoup benches facing the waves. Consider stocking up before continuing this walk.
Work your way past the Église Sainte Eugénie out to the point with the Marine Museum (Musée de la Mer). The most convenient of Biarritz’s attractions, this pricey Art Deco museum/aquarium wins the “best rainy-day option” award, with a tank of seals and a chance to get face-to-teeth with live sharks (€13.50, daily 9:30-20:00, July-Aug until 24:00, last entry one hour before closing, tel. 05 59 22 75 40, www.museedelamer.com).
Whether or not you’re visiting the museum, it’s worth hiking down to the entrance, then wandering out on the walkways that connect the big offshore rocks. These lead to the so-called Virgin Rock (Rocher de la Vierge), topped by a statue of Mary. Spot any surfers?
From here stick along the water as you head back toward the TI. After a bit of up and down over the rocks, don’t miss the trail down to Fishermen’s Wharf (Port des Pêcheurs), a little pocket of salty authenticity that clings like barnacles to the cliff below the hotels. The remnants of an aborted construction project from the town’s glory days, this little fishing settlement of humble houses and rugged jetties seems to faintly echo the Basque culture that thrived here before the glitz hit. Many of the houses have been taken over by the tourist trade (gift shops and restaurants).
Continuing along the water (and briefly back up to street level), make your way back to the town’s centerpiece, the big beach (Grande Plage). Dominating this inviting stretch of sand is the Art Deco casino, and the TI is just above that. If you haven’t yet taken the time on your vacation to splash, wade, or stroll on the beach...now’s your chance.
From Biarritz by Bus to: St-Jean-de-Luz (nearly hourly, fewer on Sundays, 45 minutes, ATCRB line #816) and Bayonne (2-3/hour, fewer on Sundays, 30 minutes, Chronoplus lines #A1 and #A2).
Traditional villages among the green hills, with buildings colored like the Basque flag, offer the best glimpse of Basque culture. Cheese, hard cider, and pelota players are the primary products of these villages, which attract few foreigners but many French summer visitors. Most of these villages have welcomed pilgrims bound for Santiago de Compostela since the Middle Ages. Today’s hikers trek between local villages or head into the Pyrenees. The most appealing villages lie in the foothills of the Pyrenees, spared from beach-scene development.
Use St-Jean-de-Luz as your base to visit the Basque sights described below. For information on another French Basque village a bit farther away—St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Donibane Garazi), the starting point of the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail—see here. You can reach some of these places by public transportation, but the hassle outweighs the rewards.
Do a circuit of these towns in the order they’re listed here (and, with time, also add St-Jean-Pied-de-Port at the end). Assuming you’re driving, I’ve included route instructions as well.
• Only 15 minutes from St-Jean-de-Luz, follow signs for Ascain, then Sare. On the twisty-turny road toward Sare, you’ll pass the station for the train up to...
Between the villages of Ascain and Sare, near the border with Spain, a small cogwheel train takes tourists to the top of La Rhune, the region’s highest peak (2,969 feet). You’ll putt-putt up the hillside for 35 minutes in a wooden, open-air train car to reach panoramic views of land and sea (adults-€15 round-trip, kids-€8, all pay €2-3 more in summer, runs March-mid-Nov daily, closed mid-Nov-Feb, departures weather-dependent—the trip is worthless if it’s not clear, goes every 35 minutes when busiest July-Aug, tel. 05 59 54 20 26, www.rhune.com). For those traveling without a car, Le Basque Bondissant runs a shuttle for peak-season tourists from St-Jean-de-Luz (€17, kids-€10, train ticket included, see here).
• Continue along the same road, and look out for pull-offs with room for a couple of cars, typically placed at the most scenic spots. Stop to smell the grass before the next stop...
Sare, which sits at the base of the towering mountain La Rhune, is among the most picturesque villages—and the most touristed. It’s easily reached from St-Jean-de-Luz by bus or car. The small TI is on the main square (Mon-Fri 9:30-12:30 & 13:30-18:00, Sat 9:30-12:30, closed Sun year-round and Sat Nov-March, tel. 05 59 54 20 14, www.sare.fr). Nearby is a cluster of hotels and the town church (which has an impressive interior, with arches over the gold-slathered altar and Basque-style balconies lining the nave). Reforms in the 18th century prohibited burials at or near Catholic churches, but Basque-style tombstones still surround the main church. At the far end of the square is the town’s humble frontón (pelota court).
• Leaving Sare, first follow signs for toutes directions, then St-Pée, and watch for the turnoff to...
Ainhoa is a colorful, tidy, picturesque one-street town that sees fewer tourists (which is a good thing). Its chunks of old walls and gates mingle with red-and-white half-timbered buildings. The 14th-century church—with a beautiful golden retable (screen behind the altar)—and the frontón share center stage. Parking is plentiful; resist the urge to turn off at the frontón—it’s better to continue on for parking near the TI.
Ainhoa is also a popular starting point for hikes into the hills. For a spectacular village-and-valleys view, drive five minutes (or walk 90 sweaty minutes) up the steep dirt road to the Chapelle de Notre-Dame d’Aranazau (“d’Aubepine” in French). Start in the central parking lot directly across the main street from the church, then head straight uphill into the clouds. Follow signs for oratoire, then count the giant white crosses leading the way to the top. The chapel is occasionally closed, and cloudy days don’t offer spectacular views, but the ethereal experience is worth the steep detour for drivers.
• As you leave Ainhoa, you’ll have to backtrack the way you came in to find the road to...
Espelette won’t let you forget that it’s the capital of the region’s AOC red peppers (piments d’Espelette), with strands of them dangling like good-luck charms from many houses and storefronts. After strolling the charming, cobbled center, head to the well-restored château and medieval tower of former local barons, which now houses the town hall, exhibition space, and the TI (Mon-Fri 8:30-12:30 & 14:00-18:00, Sat 9:30-12:30, closed Sun, tel. 05 59 93 95 02, www.espelette.fr). Or wander downhill toward the pink frontón, following the église signs past houses constructed in the 1700s and a captivating stream, to find the town church. Climb up into the church balconies for some fancy views.
Sleeping and Eating: For a good regional meal, consider the $$ Hôtel Euzkadi** restaurant, with a muy Spanish ambience (€18-36 menus, daily 12:30-14:00 & 19:30-21:00, July-Aug closed Mon, Sept-June closed Mon-Tue, 285 Karrika Nagusia, tel. 05 59 93 91 88). The hotel has 27 rooms with modern touches and a swimming pool (Db-€78-84, air-con, elevator, free Wi-Fi, www.hotel-restaurant-euzkadi.com).
• From Espelette, if you have time, you can follow signs to Cambo les Bains, then St-Jean-Pied-de-Port (40 minutes, covered in the next chapter).