Arrival in Santiago de Compostela
Map: Santiago Hotels & Restaurants
Gourmet Dining, Modern Cuisine
Restaurant Row in the Old Center: Rúa do Franco
Memorable Eating in the Old Center
Budget Values Away from the Tourist Center
The best destination in the northwestern province of Galicia, Santiago de Compostela rivals Granada as the most magical city in Spain. While Granada reminds visitors of Spain’s Moorish past, Santiago de Compostela has long had a powerful and mysterious draw on travelers: More than a thousand years’ worth of Christian pilgrims have trod the desolate trail across the north of Spain just to peer up at the facade of its glorious cathedral.
But there’s more to this city than pilgrims and the remains of St. James. Contrary to what you’ve heard, the rain in Spain does not fall mainly on the plain—it falls in Galicia. This “Atlantic Northwest” of Spain is like the Pacific Northwest of the United States, with hilly, lush terrain that enjoys far more precipitation than the interior, plus dramatic coastal scenery, delicious seafood, fine local wines, and an easygoing ambience. The Spanish interior might be arid, but the northwest requires rain gear. Even the tourists here have a grungy vibe: Packs of happy hippie pilgrims seek to find themselves while hiking the ancient Camino de Santiago from France (described in the previous chapter).
You’ll see few signs of the country’s financial problems in Santiago, where many locals work to serve the constant flow of tourists. As a pilgrim mecca, the city’s accommodations, eateries, and sights are geared toward low-budget travelers. Santiago’s top sight—the cathedral—is free to enter, along with many of its other attractions.
Santiago has a generally festive atmosphere, as travelers from every corner of the globe celebrate the end of a long journey. It’s a sturdy city that, in its day, was one of Europe’s most important religious centers, built of granite and later turned mossy green by the notorious weather.
Santiago’s biggest downside is its location: Except by air, it’s a very long trip from any other notable stop in Spain. But if you decide to visit, you—like a millennium’s worth of pilgrims before you—will find it’s worth the trek. You can get a good feel for Santiago in a day, but a second day relaxing on the squares makes the long trip here more worthwhile.
The city has one real sight: the cathedral, with its fine museum and the surrounding squares. The rest of your visit is for munching seafood, pilgrim-watching, and browsing the stony streets. The highlight of a visit just may be hanging out on the cathedral square at about 10:00 to welcome pilgrims completing their long journey.
Santiago is built on hilly terrain, with lots of ups and downs. The tourist’s Santiago is small: You can walk across the historical center, or Zona Monumental, in about 15 minutes. There you’ll find the city’s centerpiece—the awe-inspiring cathedral—as well as several other churches, a maze of pretty squares, a smattering of small museums, a bustling restaurant scene, and all of my recommended hotels.
The historical center is circled by a busy street that marks the former location of the town wall (easy to see on a map). Outside of that is the commercial city center—a modern, urban district called Céntrico. A 10-minute walk through Céntrico takes you to the train station.
The TI for both city and regional information is at Rúa do Vilar 30-32 (June-Sept daily 9:00-21:00; Oct-May Mon-Sat 9:00-19:00, Sun 9:00-14:00 & 16:00-19:00, tel. 981-555-129, www.santiagoturismo.com). It runs walking tours and rents audioguides (see “Tours in Santiago,” later). Ask the TI what’s going on when you’re in town.
Conveniently next door and sharing the same address is the Turismo do Porto e Norte de Portugal, which offers information about destinations just across the border in Portugal, plus tips on how to get there (Mon-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 15:00-19:00, Sat 11:00-14:00 & 17:00-19:00, closed Sun, tel. 981-526-559, www.portoenorte.pt).
There’s luggage storage at the bus station, but not at the train station.
By Train: Santiago’s train station is on the southern edge of the modern Céntrico district. You’ll find ATMs, a cafeteria, carrental offices, and a helpful train information office. To reach the center of town, leave the station and walk up the grand granite staircase, jog right, cross the busy Avenida de Lugo, and walk uphill for 10 minutes on Rúa do Hórreo to Praza de Galicia, a few steps from the historical center. A taxi from the station to your hotel will cost you about €7.
By Bus: From the bus station, northeast of the cathedral, it’s about a 15-minute, mostly downhill walk to the center. Exit the station straight ahead on Rúa de Ánxel Casal and go to the Praza da Paz roundabout (with a large statue of St. James as a pilgrim). Turn left here onto Rúa da Pastoriza; follow it as it changes its name to Basquiños and Santa Clara before becoming Rúa da de San Roque, which will bring you into town. I’d rather hop on local bus #5 (€1) and take it to the market or to Praza de Galicia (to reach the historical center from here, walk uphill to cross busy Rúa da Senra—the Alameda park will be on your left). Taxis, visible from the bus stop, whisk you to the center for about €6.
By Plane: Santiago’s small airport (airport code: SCQ) is about six miles from the city center. A bus connects the airport to the bus station, train station, then to Praza de Galicia at the south end of the historical center (€3, catch bus at exit by car rentals, 2/hour, 6:15-24:35, 35 minutes, may have to place big bags underneath the bus, www.empresafreire.com). A taxi into town costs €20.
By Car: There are only two freeway off-ramps to the city. The north exit (#67) is best for the airport and the old center. For car rental return at the train station, take SC-20 south and follow estación ferrocarril signs. If continuing your journey, note that parking is “aparcadoiro” in Galego. Xoán XXIII is the parking lot closest to the cathedral.
Closed Days: Many museums (except church-related ones) are closed on Monday. The colorful produce market is closed on Sunday, slow on Monday, and busiest on Thursday and Saturday mornings.
Church Hours: The cathedral and other major churches in Santiago are open 9:00-21:00 without a siesta, while minor ones have limited visiting hours. Special Masses for pilgrims are held daily at noon in the cathedral. The big Masses on Sunday are at 10:00 and noon.
Festivals: Late July is the main party time in Santiago, when the city hosts a world music festival and impromptu concerts all over town, along with fireworks on July 24 and 31. During this time, the royal family (or their representative) attends Mass in Santiago, staying at the parador in a suite overlooking the square (described under “Sleeping in Santiago,” later). Crowds and prices increase in Holy Years (when the Feast of St. James—July 25—falls on a Sunday, next in 2021). The second-most important musical event in town—with several days of free concerts—occurs around Ascension (May 29 in 2014). In late May, an international film festival called Curtocircuito offers showings at various venues throughout the city (tel. 948-542-303, www.curtocircuito.org).
Internet Access: Most hotels offer Wi-Fi for guests. Many cafés in town offer free Wi-Fi to customers (look for window signs), as does the bus station.
Laundry: Axiña, a self-service lavandería, is a 15-minute walk from the historical center (self-service-€6/load, €7 for full service, Mon-Fri 8:30-13:00 & 16:00-20:30, Sat 8:30-13:30, closed Sun, Rúa de Ramón Cabanillas 1, tel. 981-591-323).
Shopping: Jet, the black gemstone (called azabache in Spanish) similar to onyx, is believed to keep away evil spirits—and to bring in tourist euros. Along with jet, the silver trade has long been important in Santiago...and continues to be a popular item for tourists. Although the Galicians are a superstitious people and have beliefs about good and bad witches, the made-in-Taiwan witches you see in souvenir shops around the city are a recent innovation. Maybe the best souvenir is a simple seashell, like the ones pilgrims carry with them along the Camino.
Best Views: There are beautiful views back toward the cathedral from the Alameda park. From the cathedral, follow Rúa do Franco to the end. Swing right into the park and continue up Paseo de Santa Susana to the viewpoint (mirador) along Paseo da Ferradura. You can enjoy another excellent view from the very top of the park (clearly marked on TI maps).
The city TI offers a two-hour English-language walking tour that covers the cathedral and the surrounding plazas (€12, April-Sept Thu-Sat at 16:00, Sun at 12:00, details at TI). Ask about the TI’s other tours, including gastronomy tours, nighttime tours, and more. Or you can rent an audioguide, and follow the suggested three-hour route (€12/24-hour rental). Either tour is better than taking the silly tourist train, which only does a circuit around the outskirts of the old city (€6, 45 minutes, meet in front of the cathedral on Praza do Obradoiro).
It’s easy to visit the cathedral and nearby sights on your own with the information in this book, but if you have the extra cash, you could hire a local guide (3.5 hours, €90 Mon-Fri, €100 Sat-Sun). Patricia Furelos (mobile 630-781-795, patriciafurelos@yahoo.es) and Manuel Ruzo (mobile 639-888-064, manuel@artnaturagalicia.com) are equally good, or contact the Association of Professional Guides of Galicia (tel. 981-569-890, guiasgalicia@ctv.es).
▲▲Cathedral Museum (Museo da Catedral)
Gelmírez Palace (Pazo de Xelmírez)
▲Museum of Pilgrimages (Museo das Peregrinacións)
Museum of the Galician People (Museo do Pobo Galego)
City of Culture of Galicia (Cidade da Cultura de Galicia)
Santiago’s cathedral isn’t the biggest in Spain, nor is it the most impressive. Yet it’s certainly the most mystical, exerting a spiritual magnetism that attracts people from all walks of life and from all corners of the globe. (To more fully appreciate the pilgrim experience, read the first part of the previous Camino de Santiago chapter before visiting the cathedral.)
Exploring one of the most important churches in Christendom, you’ll do some time travel, putting yourself in the well-worn shoes of the millions of pilgrims who have trekked many miles to this powerful place.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 9:00-21:00; if a service is going on, the front entrance is likely closed—but you can enter around either side about 100 yards to the left or the right; www.catedraldesantiago.es.
Backpacks: If you’re not allowed to bring backpacks into the church, you’ll find free baggage storage next to the Office for Pilgrims on Rúa do Vilar (see map).
Self-Guided Tour: Begin facing the cathedral’s main facade, in the big square called...
Find the pavement stone with the scallop shell right in the middle of this square. For more than a thousand years, this spot has been where millions of tired pilgrims have taken a deep breath and thought to themselves: “I made it!” To maximize your chance of seeing pilgrims, be here at about 10:00—the last stop on the Camino de Santiago is two miles away, and pilgrims try to get to the cathedral in time for the 12:00 Mass. It’s great fun to chat with pilgrims who’ve just completed their journey. They seem to be very centered and content with the experience, and tuned in to the important things in life...like taking time to talk with others. You’ll likely see pilgrims who met along the way arrive separately, ecstatically reunite, then leave together, having found each other at the grand finale. Every time I visit, I find myself taking photos for people and agreeing to email copies to them. Even if you’re shy, it’s a fun and easy way to meet pilgrims by offering to capture their personal triumphs.
• Before heading into the cathedral, take a spin around the square (start facing the cathedral).
To your left is the Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs (Hostal dos Reis Católicos). Isabel and Ferdinand came to Santiago in 1501 to give thanks for successfully forcing the Moors out of Granada. When they arrived, they found many sick pilgrims at the square. (Numerous pilgrims came to Santiago to ask for help in overcoming an illness, and the long walk here often only made their condition worse.) Isabel and Ferdinand decided to build this hospital to give pilgrims a place to recover on arrival (you’ll see their coats of arms flanking the intricately carved entryway). It was free and remained a working hospital until 1952—many locals were born there—when it was converted into a fancy parador and restaurant (see “Sleeping in Santiago” and “Eating in Santiago,” later). The modern white windows set against the old granite facade might seem jarring—but this contrast is very common in Galicia, maximizing the brightness that accompanies any sunny spells in this notoriously rainy region.
Another 90 degrees to the left is the Neoclassical City Hall (Concello). Notice the equestrian statue up top. That’s St. James, riding in from heaven to help the Spaniards defeat the Moors. All over town, Santiago’s namesake and symbol—a Christian evangelist on a horse, killing Muslims with his sword—is out doing his bloody thing. See any police on the square? There’s a reason for their presence. In its medieval day, Santiago’s cathedral was one of the top three pilgrimage sites in the Christian world (after Jerusalem and Rome). It remains important today, and with St. James taking such joy in butchering Muslims, it is considered a high-profile target for Islamic fundamentalists.
Completing the square (90 more degrees to the left) is the original University building (its rectory faces the square, the tower behind with the flags marks the original building, which is now the library). Santiago has Spain’s third-oldest university, with more than 30,000 students (medicine and law are especially popular).
You’ll likely see Spanish school groups on the square, field-tripping from all over the country. Teachers love to use this spot for an architecture lesson, since it features four different architectural styles (starting with the cathedral and spinning left): 18th-century Baroque; 16th-century Plateresque; 18th-century Neoclassical; and medieval Romanesque (the door of the rectory).
• Now take a look at the...
Twelve hundred years ago, a monk followed a field of stars (probably the Milky Way) to the little Galician village of San Fiz de Solovio and discovered what appeared to be the long-lost tomb of St. James. On July 25, 813, the local bishop declared that St. James’ remains had been found. They set to building a church here and named the place Santiago (St. James) de Compostela (campo de estrellas, or “field of stars,” for the celestial bodies that guided the monk).
Originally a simple chapel, the cathedral you see today has gradually been added on to over the last 12 centuries. By the 11th century, the church was overwhelmed by the crowds. Construction of a larger cathedral began in 1075, and the work took 150 years. (The granite workers who built it set up shop on this very square—still called Praza do Obradoiro, literally, “Workers’ Square.”) Much of the design is attributed to a palace artist named Maestro Mateo, whom you’ll meet a little later.
The exterior of the cathedral you see today is not the one that medieval pilgrims saw (though the interior is much the same). In the mid-18th century, Santiago’s bishop—all fired up from a trip to Baroque-slathered Rome and wanting to improve the original, now-deteriorating facade—decided to spruce up the building with a new Baroque exterior. He also replaced the simple stonework in the interior with gaudy gold.
Study the facade. Atop the middle steeple is St. James (dressed like the pilgrim he was). Beneath him is his tomb, marked by a star—one of the many symbols you’ll see all over the place (to decipher the symbols, see sidebar on here). On either side of the tomb are Theodorus and Athanasius, James’ disciples who brought his body to Santiago. On the side pillars are, to the left, James’ father, Zebedee; and to the right, his mother, Salomé.
Don’t you wish you had a miniature replica of this beautiful facade to carry around with you? Actually, you probably do. Check your pocket for a copper-colored euro coin worth €0.01, €0.02, or €0.05. There it is! Of all the churches in Spain, they chose this one as their representative in euro-land. It’s even more important when you consider the significance of the images depicted on Spain’s other euro coinage: a portrait of the author of Don Quixote, Miguel de Cervantes, Spain’s greatest contributor to world literature; and the current king, Juan Carlos I. Sevilla and Toledo may have bigger cathedrals, but Santiago has the symbolism to propel its church into this powerful triumvirate.
The cathedral also houses a museum with three parts; as you face this facade, the door to the main museum is to the right, the entry to the crypt is dead ahead (under the staircase), and the door on the left leads to an empty palace and the cathedral rooftop (see Gelmírez Palace listing, later).
• Now, head up the stairs and enter the cathedral. Once inside go to the rear of the nave and look up at the...
The portico is currently being restored (due to wrap up sometime in 2014). Be sure to watch the free video that shows the portico in all its glory. The video runs in the crypt (go outside and downstairs to crypt, then make free reservation for viewing time); after a live intro, usually in Spanish, the video is presented in several languages.
Whether you view the portico in its place or in the video, imagine taking a step back in time. Remember, it used to be the main facade of the cathedral, sculpted in about 1180 by Maestro Mateo. Pretend you’re a medieval pilgrim, and you’ve just walked 500 miles from the Frankish lands to reach this cathedral. You’re here to request the help of St. James in recovering from an illness or to give thanks for a success. Maybe you’ve come to honor the wish of a dying relative or to be forgiven for your sins. Whatever the reason, you came here on foot.
You can’t read, but you can tell from the carved images that this magnificent door represents the Glory of God. Old Testament prophets on the left announce Christ’s coming. New Testament apostles on the right spread his message. Jesus reigns directly above, approachable to the humble Christian pilgrim via St. James with his staff.
Theologically, pilgrims are coming not for St. James, but to get to Christ via St. James. Look for Jesus, front and center, surrounded by Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John. Beside them are angels carrying tools for the Crucifixion—the cross, the crown of thorns, the spear, and a jug of vinegar. Arching above them are 24 musicians playing celestial music—each one with a different medieval instrument. Below St. James is a column with the Tree of Jesse—showing the genealogy of Jesus with Mary near the top and, above her, the Holy Trinity: Father, Son, and a dove representing the Holy Spirit.
As a pilgrim, you would walk to the column in the middle of the entryway (now ringed by a railing to keep crowds from gathering here). Squint down the nave to the end, and you’ll see the stone statue of St. James that marks his tomb. Trembling with excitement at the culmination of your long journey, you’d place your hand into the well-worn finger holes on the column (see five grooves at about chest level) and bow your head, giving thanks to St. James for having granted you safe passage. Then you’d go around to the other side of the post and, at knee level, see Maestro Mateo, who carved this fine facade. What a smart guy! People used to kneel and tap their heads against his three times to help improve their intelligence (a ritual among university scholars here)—until a metal barrier was erected. (Grades have dropped recently.) Such a high-profile self-portrait of an artist in the 12th century was unprecedented. In Santiago he was something like the Leonardo of his day.
• Now wander down the...
Look up to take in the barrel vault and the heavy, dark Romanesque design of the church. (The original freestanding church had about 80 glorious alabaster windows. They were mostly bricked up when a complex of buildings was built around the church.) Up near the top, notice the gallery. This is where sweaty, smelly pilgrims slept. Check out the most modern addition to the side naves: TV monitors. Now when crowds fill the cathedral for Mass, everyone has a good view of the service.
• Continue up the nave until you reach the high altar, where you’ll see a thick rope hanging from a pulley system high in the dome, which is sometimes attached to the...
This huge silver-plated incense burner (120 pounds and about the size of a small child) is suspended from the ceiling during special Masses, occurring about 13 times a year (ask at TI if one is scheduled during your visit, or check www.catedraldesantiago.es), or when a pilgrim pays about €300 to see it in action. During Holy Years, it swings nearly daily at the end of each pilgrims’ Mass at 12:00. Supposedly the custom of swinging this giant incense dispenser began in order to counteract the stench of the pilgrims. After communion, eight men (called tiraboleiros) pull on the rope, and this huge contraption swings in a wide arc up and down the transept, spewing sweet-smelling smoke. If you’re here to see it, the most impressive view is from either side of the main altar. From this position, the botafumeiro seems to whiz directly over your head. When not in use, the botafumeiro and a replica are kept on display in the cathedral library (see “Cathedral Museum,” later).
• Stand in the center of the nave, in front of the...
The big gold altar has all three representations of St. James in one place (see sidebar on here): Up top, on a white horse, is James the Matamoros—Moor-Slayer; below that (just under the canopy) is pilgrim James; and below that is the original stone Apostle James by Maestro Mateo—still pointing down to his tomb after all these centuries.
The dome over the altar was added in the 16th century to bring some light into this dark Romanesque church.
On the columns up and down the nave and transept, notice the symbols carved into the granite. These are the markings of the masons who made the columns—to keep track of how many they’d be paid for.
• Following the pilgrims’ route, go down the ambulatory on the left side of the altar—passing where the botafumeiro rope is moored to the pillar—and walk down the little stairway (see the green light, on your right) to the level of the earlier, 10th-century church and the...
There he is, in the little silver chest, marked by a star—Santiago. Pilgrims kneel in front of the tomb and make their request or say their thanks.
• Continue through the little passage, up the stairs, turn left, and wander around the ambulatory, noticing the various chapels (built by noblemen who wanted to be buried close to St. James). At the very back of the church (behind the altar) is the greenish...
This special door is open only during Holy Years, when pilgrims use it to access the tomb and statue of the apostle. The current door, sculpted by a local artist for the 2004 Holy Year, shows six scenes from the life of St. James: the conversion moment when Jesus invited those Galilean fishermen to become “fishers of men”; Jesus with the 12 apostles (James is identified by his scallop shell); James doing his “fishing” in Spain; his return to Jerusalem in A.D. 44 to be beheaded; the ship taking his body back to Spain; and the discovery of James’ body in 813. At the bottom, the little snail is the symbol of the pilgrim...slow and steady, with everything on its back.
There’s one more pilgrim ritual to complete. Near the exit from the tomb, find a little door—perhaps with a line of pilgrims (10 yards away, by another green light, closed 13:30-16:00 and after 20:00). Climb the stairs under the huge babies, and find Maestro Mateo’s stone statue of St. James—gilded and caked with precious gems. Embrace him from behind and enjoy a saint’s-eye view of the cathedral...under the vigilant eye of a cathedral watchman, there to ensure you’re not overcome by the unholy temptation to pry loose a jewel.
• Congratulations, pilgrim! You have completed the Camino de Santiago. Now go in peace.
The Cathedral Museum (enter through door on the right, as you face main facade) and crypt (under the main staircase in front) share one ticket; the Gelmírez Palace (door on the left) and rooftop are covered by a separate ticket.
The cathedral’s museum shows off some interesting pieces from the fine treasury collection and artifacts from the cathedral’s history.
Cost and Hours: €6, €4 for pilgrims; daily 10:00-20:00; last entry one hour before closing, toll tel. 902-557-812, ticket office in crypt under main stairs into cathedral, www.catedraldesantiago.es.
Self-Guided Tour: The museum is laid out chronologically from bottom to top. There’s virtually no English inside, so pick up the included English audioguide from the ticket office as you go in.
Crypt: Wander into the crypt and see some serious medieval engineering. Because the church was built on a too-small hill, the crypt was made to support the part of the nave that hung over the hillside. The Romanesque vaulting and carved decoration is more Maestro Mateo mastery. A video in Spanish shows the continuing restoration of the Portico of Glory (see here).
Ground Floor: Here you’ll find the remaining pieces of Maestro Mateo’s original stone choir (stone seats for priests; these seats filled the center of the nave in the 12th century), pieced together as part of a new replica. Nearby, look for a miniature model of the choir. Notice the expressive faces Mateo carved into the granite. Working in the Romanesque style, he was well ahead of his time artistically. Consider the cultural value of a place in Europe where people from all corners came together, shared, and then dispersed.
You’ll see three different depictions of St. James in the cathedral and throughout the city:
1. Apostle James: James dressed in typical apostle robes, often indiscernible from the other apostles (sometimes with a pilgrim’s stick or shell).
2. Pilgrim James: James wearing some or all of the traditional garb of the Camino de Santiago pilgrim: brown cloak, floppy hat, walking stick, shell, gourd, and sandals. Among pilgrims, he’s the one carrying a book.
3. Crusader James, the Moor-Slayer (Matamoros): Centuries after his death, the Spaniards called on St. James for aid in various battles against the Moors. According to legend, St. James appeared from the heavens on a white horse and massacred the Muslim foes. Locals don’t particularly care for this depiction, especially these days, when they worry it might provoke attacks by fringe Islamic fundamentalist elements, which is probably why the cathedral chapel dedicated to this version of James conveniently has floral displays that cover the slain Moors.
In some ways, the concept of Europe as a civilization was being born when Santiago was in its 12th-century heyday. You’ll also see fragments of Roman settlements, dating from before the tomb of St. James was discovered here, as well as some fabulous spiral columns of solid marble from Mateo’s workshop.
First Floor: The four statues of a pregnant Mary illustrate a theme that’s unusual in most of Europe, but common in Galicia and neighboring Portugal in the 15th century.
The final room on this floor is dedicated to various portrayals of St. James (see sidebar), with several incarnations of him as Matamoros (the Moor-Slayer). Notice the wooden door showing the rescue of James’ body by his disciples and its transfer to Galicia.
Second Floor: Enter the cloister, where a series of tombs holding the remains of cathedral priests line the floor. Pass by the ornate chapel and enter the courtyard to see a fountain (which once stood in front of the cathedral and was used by pilgrims to cleanse themselves) and the original church bells (replaced with new models in 1989). As you walk left (clockwise) around the cloister, the second door leads to the Royal Chapel, with a beautiful-smelling cedar altar that houses dozens and dozens of relics. The centerpiece (eye level) holds the remains (likely the skull) of St. James the Lesser (the other Apostle James). Look up to find St. James riding heroically out of the woodwork to rally all of Europe to reconquer the Iberian Peninsula. This altarpiece was restored after a fire around 1900.
• Cross the hall to the...
Treasury: An altar dedicated to the King Ferdinand III takes center stage. The fancy solid-gold monstrance is used for carrying the communion host around the cathedral on Corpus Christi (the wafer sits in the little round window in the middle). Other bits of religious finery await your inspection.
• Return to the cloister and back through the door you entered to the...
Library/Archive: This is where they store old books, a funky rack for reading those huge tomes (“turn pages” by spinning the rack) and the botafumeiro (gigantic incense burner). There’s always a replica here offering a close-up look.
• Leave the library and go up one more floor to enjoy views from a fine balcony overlooking Praza do Obradoiro.
Third Floor: Take a look inside the dark room to the right of the stairs. Here you’ll find the painstakingly restored gallardete (long, triangular standard) flown from the Spanish captain’s ship during the 1571 Battle of Lepanto. Don Quixote author Miguel de Cervantes was wounded in this battle—and likely saw this very flag—as Spain fought to victory over the Turks, gaining control of the Mediterranean.
You’ll then walk through several rooms of restored tapestries. The first room is from designs by Rubens. The two middle rooms show idealistic 18th-century peasant life—wives helping their men to be less moronic (but there’s still a man peeing in the corner). Don’t miss the intimate 18th-century Madonna and Child statue in the glass case. The nursing Virgen de la Leche looks out at us as she feeds her son. The last room has a series of 12 tapestries, designed by Goya, with exacting details of life around 1790.
The medieval home and traditional residence of the archbishop houses temporary exhibits that change every six months but offers little else of interest. You can access the palace (covered by your museum ticket) through the doorway to the left of Portico de Glory (Tue-Sat 10:00-11:00 & 16:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, closed Mon, tel. 981-552-985, www.catedraldesantiago.es).
There is a square on each side of the cathedral. You’ve already visited Praza do Obradoiro, in the front. Here are the other three, working clockwise (to reach the first one, go up the passage—which street musicians appreciate for its acoustics—to the left as you’re facing the main cathedral facade).
This was the way most medieval pilgrims using the French Road actually approached the cathedral. Across the square is St. Martin’s Monastery (Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario), one of two monasteries that sprang up around the church to care for pilgrims. Today it houses a museum of ecclesiastical artifacts and special exhibits.
Walk to the corner of the square with the arcade, and go to the post with the sign for Rúa da Acibechería (next to the garbage can, under the streetlight). If you look to the roof of the cathedral, between the big dome and the tall tower, you can make out a small white cross. This is where the clothes of medieval pilgrims were burned when they finally arrived at Santiago. This ritual was created for hygienic reasons in an age of frightful diseases...and filthy pilgrims.
• Continue along the arcade and around the corner, and you’ll enter...
The door of the cathedral facing this square is the Holy Door, only opened during Holy Years. There’s St. James, flanked by the disciples who brought his body back to Galicia. Below them are more biblical characters, perhaps the 12 apostles and 12 prophets. Tip: Old Testament prophets hold scrolls. New Testament apostles hold books.
Across the square from the cathedral stands the imposing St. Pelayo Monastery (Mosteiro San Paio). The windows of its cells (now used by Benedictine sisters—notice the bars and privacy screens) face the cathedral. The church at the north end of this monastery is worth a peek. It has a frilly Baroque altar and a statue with a typical Galician theme: a pregnant Mary (to the left as you face main altar). The nuns sing at the evening vespers following the 19:30 Mass (Mon-Fri; 30 minutes earlier Sat-Sun). Just off this sanctuary is the entrance to the monastery’s Sacred Art Museum (Museo de Arte Sacra), with a small but interesting collection (€1.50, Tue-Sun 11:00-13:30 & 16:00-18:30, closed Mon). The nuns of St. Pelayo make Galicia’s famous tarta de Santiago—almond cake with a cross of Santiago in powdered sugar dusted on top. To buy one, exit the church to the right, head up the stairs, and walk around behind the monastery to find the entrance on Rúa de San Paio de Antealtares. Once inside, go to the small window on the left (generally open Mon-Sat 9:00-14:00 & 15:30-19:00; they only sell entire cakes—a big one for €10.50 and a very big one for €18; ring bell and remember that patience is a virtue).
• Continue around to the...
This “Silversmiths’ Square” is where Santiago’s silver workers used to have their shops (and some still do). Overlooking the square is a tall tower. Imagine the fortified, typically Romanesque cathedral complex before the decorative Baroque frills were added; it looked more like a hulking fortress for fending off invading enemies from Normans to Moors to English pirates.
The fountain features a woman sitting on St. James’ tomb, holding aloft a star—a typical city symbol. The mansion facing the cathedral is actually a collection of buildings with a thin-yet-effective Galician Baroque facade built to give the square architectural harmony. Its centerpiece even copies the fountain’s star.
Beyond the fountain, a few steps down Rúa do Vilar (on the left), is the Office for Pilgrims. This is where pilgrims stop to pick up their compostela, the certificate that documents their successful camino. (The adjacent gift shop displays a copy of one in its window as an advertisement for pilgrims to get their compostela laminated.) While tourists aren’t really welcome in here, you can pop your head into the hallway, where there’s often a pile of hiking sticks abandoned by happy pilgrims who’ve finished their trek. Upstairs is a RENFE train ticket information desk—but it does not sell tickets (daily 9:00-21:00).
This wonderful market, housed in Old World stone buildings, offers a good opportunity to do some serious people-watching (Mon-Sat 8:00-14:00, closed Sun). It’s busiest and best on Thursday and Saturday, when villagers from the countryside come to sell things. (Monday’s the least interesting day, since the fishermen don’t go out on Sunday.)
Local gooseneck barnacles, called percebes, are a delicacy. Percebes only grow on rocks that see a lot of dangerous waves. It takes specialists—a team of two gatherers—to harvest them: one with a rope tied to his waist, the other spotting him from above. Because of the danger, percebes are really expensive. You’ll see them stacked in the windows of seafood bars where you’ll pay about €7 for 100 grams ($40/lb). Check the price carefully when you order, as there are varieties that can cost many times that much. Two beers and a small 100-gram plate to split with your travel partner make for a wonderful snack. Just twist, rip, and bite: It’s a bit like munching the necks off butter clams. I ask for toasted bread on the side.
For the freshest percebes at half the price—and twice the experience—buy them at the market, then let Marisco-Mania boil them for you right there in their market café. They’ll boil up any seafood you buy in the market (it takes just a few minutes; minimum portion a half-kilo or about one pound), charging €3 per person for table service, plus 10 percent of your market bill; you must bring the receipt for whatever they’re cooking up for you (Tue-Sat 8:00-18:00, closed Mon, aisle 5 in the market, tel. 981-575-720, mobile 619-351-278).
The market was built in the 1920s (to consolidate Santiago’s many small markets) in a style perfectly compatible with the medieval wonder that surrounds it. Today it offers an opportunity to get up close and personal with some still-twitching seafood. Keep an eye out for the specialties you’ll want to try later—octopus, shrimp, crabs, lobsters, and expensive-as-gold percebes (barnacles; see sidebar). You’ll also see large loaves of country bread, chicken the color it should be, and the local chorizo (spicy sausage).
Grelos are a local type of turnip greens with a thick stalk and long, narrow leaves—grown only here, and often used in the caldo galego soup. The little green pimientos de padrón (in season June-Oct) look like jalapeños, but lack the kick...sometimes.
In the cheese cases you’ll see what look like huge yellow Hershey’s Kisses...or breasts—in fact, this creamy cheese is called tetilla (“small breast” in Galego). According to local legend, artists at the cathedral sculpted a very curvaceous woman and the locals loved it. The bishop made them redo the statue with less sexy lines, so the locals got even by making their cheese look like breasts. Through the centuries since, Santiago has been full of tasty reminders of a woman’s physical beauty. A smoked version of the cheese, called San Simón da Costa, can be found as well.
This museum examines various aspects of the pilgrimage phenomenon. You’ll see a map of pilgrimage sites around the world, and then learn more about the pilgrimage that brings people to Santiago. There are models of earlier versions of the cathedral, explanations of the differing depictions of St. James throughout history (apostle, pilgrim, and Crusader), and coverage of the various routes to Santiago and stories of some prominent pilgrims. This well-presented place lends historical context to all of those backpackers you see in the streets. Although exhibits themselves are not described in English, the thorough info sheets available throughout the museum are well worth reading.
Cost and Hours: Free, Tue-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:30-13:30 & 17:00-20:00, Sun 10:30-13:30, closed Mon, Praza das Praterías, tel. 981-581-558, www.mdperegrinacions.com.
This museum gives insights into rural Galician life. As you tour this collection, remember that if you side-trip a few miles into the countryside, you’ll find traditional lifestyles thriving even today. Beautifully displayed around an 18th-century cloister, the museum springs from a unique triple staircase, which provided privacy to various hierarchies of the monks who lived here, depending on which stairway you climbed. The collection shows off boat-building and fishing techniques, farming implements and simple horse-drawn carts, tools of trade and handicrafts (including carpentry, pottery, looms, and baskets), traditional costumes, and a collection of musical instruments, with an emphasis on the bagpipes (gaitas). If the farm tools seem old-fashioned, there’s a reason: Old inheritance laws mean that plots have gotten increasingly smaller, so modern farming machinery is impractical—keeping traditional equipment alive. There’s virtually no English.
Cost and Hours: €3, free on Sun, open Tue-Sat 10:30-14:00 & 16:00-19:30, Sun 11:00-14:00, closed Mon, at northeast edge of historical center in monastery of San Domingos de Bonaval, just beyond Porta do Camiño, tel. 981-583-620, www.museodopobo.es.
Nearby: Behind the museum is a plush and peaceful park—once crowded with tombstones. Next door, in a striking modern building, is the Galician Contemporary Art Museum (Centro Galego de Arte Contemporánea), with continually rotating exhibits—mostly by local artists (free, Tue-Sun 11:00-20:00, closed Mon, tel. 981-546-619).
This super-modern cultural complex, built on a hillside near Santiago de Compostela, was intended to put Santiago on the map as a 21st-century city (similar to Bilbao’s Guggenheim). Instead, its costs have exceeded its expectations. Inaugurated in 2011 as the Archives and Library of Galicia, it offers exhibits and tours.
Cost and Hours: Free, daily 8:30-14:30 & 16:00-20:00, tours at 11:30 and 17:30, tel. 881-997-565, www.cidadedacultura.org.
You’ll likely hear bagpipes (gaitas) being played in the streets of Santiago. Nobody knows for certain how this unlikely instrument caught on in Galicia, but supposedly the tradition has been passed down since the Celts lived here. (Bagpipes seem to be unique to Celts like the Scottish and Irish, but nearly all European ethnic groups have had bagpipes in their past. If anything, the Celts just endured their sound more willingly.) Some singers use bagpipes, too, including Milladoiro (a group popular with middle-aged Galicians) and Carlos Nuñez (trendy with younger people). Caped university students, called tunas, can be seen singing traditional songs (without bagpipes) around town every night during the summer.
Whereas summertime is lively with folk-music concerts (ask for details at the TI), the rest of the year is not. One good bet is to drop by a practice session of the troupe called Cantigas e Agarimos (meets Wed and Fri at 21:30 for an hour, maybe at Rúa da Algalia de Arriba 11 or possibly playing at a nearby location—confirm schedule at TI, tel. 981-581-257). Since 1921, this group has shared the traditional Galician culture with visitors in performances throughout the year.
To cater to all those pilgrims, Santiago has a glut of cheap, basic accommodations. There aren’t many affordable big hotels in town for tour groups, so they tend to stay along the Rías Baixas (fjord-like estuaries) about an hour to the south, where beds are cheap. That means many of Santiago’s visitors are day-trippers, arriving at about 10:30 and leaving in the afternoon. After dark, it’s just you, the locals, the pilgrims, and St. James. High season is roughly Easter through September; most places charge more during this time. The trickiest dates to book are Easter Sunday weekend and the Feast of St. James (July 24-25), so if you plan to be in town around these times, reserve your rooms well ahead. When I list a range of prices, it represents low season to high season. Any single prices listed are an average (midseason). The hostales speak enough English to make a reservation by phone (though sometimes not much more).
$$$ Altaïr Hotel, owned by the Liñares family (see Costa Vella listing, later), is located in a renovated three-story residence. Its 11 spacious rooms and mod decor can best be described as “rustic minimalist.” Exposed stone walls and open beams mixed with a sleek design provide a unique yet surprisingly affordable experience (Sb-€75-87, Db-€95-120, superior Db-€120-140, extra bed-€20, tasty €8.50 breakfast—free with this book in 2014 when you book directly with the hotel by email, free Wi-Fi, affordable laundry service for guests, Rúa dos Loureiros 12, tel. 981-554-712, www.altairhotel.net, info@altairhotel.net).
$$$ Hostal dos Reis Católicos (Hospital of the Catholic Monarchs) was founded by the Catholic Monarchs at the beginning of the 16th century to care for pilgrims arriving from the Camino. It was converted into an upscale parador in 1952 and inaugurated by Franco (when royal family members are in town, they stay in his former suite overlooking the square). This grand building has 137 rooms surrounding a series of four courtyards packed with Santiago history. It has the best address in Santiago...and prices to match (standard Db-€284, includes great breakfast, Db price can fall to €150—check website or call for deals, parking-€18.50/day, Praza do Obradoiro 1, tel. 981-582-200, www.paradores-spain.com/spain/pscompostela.html, santiago@parador.es). Ask Enrique, who has worked here for 40 years, to print out the history of the parador in English.
Still remembering its roots, the parador follows Ferdinand and Isabel’s edict to watch over pilgrims by offering three free meals to the first 10 who arrive each day (usually around 8:00). Pilgrims dine in a special room next to the staff quarters. They were originally allowed to eat in the main dining room, but guests started complaining about the stink. At first, special cloaks were given to pilgrims to try to mask the odor, but when that failed, they were moved to their own eating quarters.
$$$ Hotel Virxe da Cerca is on the edge of the historical center, across the busy street from the market. Its standard rooms are in a modern building, but some of its “superior” and all of its “special” historic rooms—with classy old stone and hardwoods—are in a restored 18th-century Jesuit residence. While the modern rooms feel particularly impersonal, all 42 rooms surround a lush garden oasis (standard Db-€75-130, superior Db-€20 extra, breakfast-€11, beautiful glassed-in breakfast room overlooks garden, elevator, guest computer, free Wi-Fi, Rúa da Virxe da Cerca 27, tel. 981-569-350, www.pousadasdecompostela.com, vdacerca@pousadasdecompostela.com).
$$ Hotel Residencia Costa Vella is my favorite spot in Santiago, with 14 comfortable rooms combining classic charm and modern comforts. The glassed-in breakfast room and lounge terrace overlook a peaceful garden, with lovely views of a nearby church and monastery and into the countryside beyond. They deserve a feature in Better Stones and Tiles magazine (Sb-€54-60, standard Db-€70-81, Db with balcony-€85-97, breakfast-€6, free Wi-Fi, affordable laundry service for guests, parking-€10/day, Rúa da Porta da Pena 17, tel. 981-569-530, www.costavella.com, hotelcostavella@costavella.com, friendly José, Roberto, and wonderful staff).
$$ Hotel Airas Nunes, Hotel San Clemente, and Hotel Pombal are all affiliated with Hotel Virxe da Cerca. They’re uniformly good, stress-free, and professional-feeling, all located in restored old buildings with classy touches. All three hotels charge €6 for breakfast and €20 for extra beds, and share the same contact info (tel. 981-569-350, www.pousadasdecompostela.com, info@pousadasdecompostela.com). Hotel Airas Nunes is deep in the old center a few blocks in front of the cathedral (10 rooms, Db-€60-85, Rúa do Vilar 17, reception tel. 981-554-706). Hotel San Clemente is just outside the historical center (Db-€65-80, Rúa de San Clemente 28, reception tel. 981-569-260). Hotel Pombal is a slight step up from the other two in terms of quality and price. Situated in the Alameda park, many of its rooms offer great views of the cathedral (Db-€80-95, €10 more for views, Rúa do Pombal 12, reception tel. 981-569-350).
$ Hostal Suso, run by the four Quintela brothers, is a great value, offering 14 inexpensive, recently renovated rooms around an airy atrium over a fun little bar, which rustles up a good €4.50 tortilla de gambas (shrimp omelet). It’s located in the heart of Santiago (Sb-€20-25, Db-€40-49, breakfast at bar-€3.50-5, Rúa do Vilar 65, tel. 981-586-611, www.hostalsuso.com, hostalsuso@gmail.com).
$ Hospedaje Ramos rents 10 big, tasteful, clean rooms right in the center. It has lots of stairs, which is a blessing since they take you farther away from the night noise (Sb-€26, Db-€39, no credit cards, no breakfast, Rúa da Raiña 18, tel. 981-581-859, Louisa speaks a few words of English).
$ Hostal Residencia Giadás, tucked away just beyond the market, faces a tidy little square as if it owns it. The eight rooms, some with slanted floors, are simple but charming (Sb-€35, Db-€55, Tb-€74, elevator, next to Porta do Camiño at Praza do Matadoiro 2, tel. 981-587-071, www.hostalgiadas.com, info@hostalgiadas.com, Giadás family).
$ Pensión Girasol rents 12 decent rooms above a cheery cafeteria for a good price in a great neighborhood (S-€25, Sb-€35-40, D-€35-45, Db-€48-55, Porta da Pena 4, tel. 981-566-287, www.hgirasol.com, girasol@hgirasol.com).
Strolling through the streets of Santiago is like visiting a well-stocked aquarium: Windows proudly display every form of edible sea life, including giant toothy fish, scallops and clams of every shape and size, monstrous shrimp, gooseneck barnacles (percebes; see sidebar, earlier), and—most importantly—octopus. The fertile fjords of the Galician coast are just 20 miles away, and the region’s many fishing villages keep the capital city swimming in seafood. As the seafood is so fresh, the focus here is on purity rather than sauces. The seafood is served simply—generally just steamed or grilled, and seasoned only with a little olive oil, onions, peppers, and paprika.
Tasting octopus (pulpo) is obligatory in Galicia. It’s most often prepared a la gallega (also called pulpo a feira): After the octopus is beaten to tenderize it, then boiled in a copper pot, its tentacles are snipped into bite-size pieces with scissors. It’s topped with virgin olive oil, coarse sea salt, and a mixture of sweet and spicy paprika, then served on a round wooden plate. Eat it with toothpicks, never a fork. It’s usually accompanied by large hunks of country bread to sop up the olive oil, and washed down by local red mencia or white ribeiro wine, often served in little saucer-like ceramic cups (cunca).
Not a fan of seafood? You can slurp the caldo galego, a traditional broth that originally came from the leftover stock used to prepare an elaborate Sunday feast (cabbage or grelos, potatoes, and so on—not too exciting, but providing comfort on a rainy day). Starting in July, look for pimientos de Padrón—miniature green peppers sautéed in olive oil with a heavy dose of rock salt.
Restaurants generally serve lunch from 13:00 to 16:00 and dinner from 20:00 until very late (Spaniards don’t start dinner until about 21:00). It’s frustrating to try to eat before the locals do. If you find a restaurant serving before 13:00 or 21:00, you’ll be all alone with a few sorry-looking tourists. Early-bird eaters should know that ordering a drink at any bar will generally get you a free tapa—Santiago is one of the few places in Spain that still honors this tradition.
For a quick meal on the go, grab a traditional meat pie, or empanada, which comes de carne (with pork), de bonito or de atún (tuna), de bacalao (salted cod), de zamburiñas (tiny scallops), de berberechos (cockles)—and these days, even de pulpo (octopus).
And for dessert: Locals enjoy queixo con mel (cheese with honey) at the end of a meal. In the tourist zones, bakeries push samples of tarta de Santiago, the local almond cake. (Historically, the cake was cooked by sisters in Santiago’s convents.) The Galician version of firewater, orujo, is a popular after-dinner drink, thought to aid digestion. A somewhat lighter and tastier option is licor de hierbas, a distilled, Mountain Dew-colored blend of orujo flavored with local herbs.
(See “Santiago Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Casa Marcelo, Santiago’s elite gourmet option, earned a Michelin star for its international cuisine. If you want to dine elegantly and have the money, this dressy 11-table restaurant is the place. For €60 (plus wine), you get a fixed-price meal featuring the chef’s seasonal specials. Recent innovations include a soufflé-like version of the tarta de Santiago. The kitchen is in plain view, so you’ll get caught up in the excitement of cooking (open for dinner Tue-Sat, also open for lunch on Sat, closed Sun-Mon, reservations required—usually days in advance, down the steep lane below the cathedral, at Rúa das Hortas 1, tel. 981-558-580).
(See “Santiago Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Since hungry pilgrims first filled the city in the Middle Ages, Rúa do Franco (named not for the dictator but for the first French pilgrims) has been lined with eateries and bars. Today this street, which leads away from the cathedral, remains lively with foreign visitors—both tourists and pilgrims. There are plenty of seafood places, a few time-warp dives, and several lively bars with little €1.50 montaditos (sandwiches) for the grabbing. I’d stroll it once to see what appeals, and then go back to eat. O Gato Negro, a no-frills seafood tapas bar stuck in the past and filled with loyal locals, is worth seeking out. It’s one of the last places to serve ribeiro wine in a ceramic cup (Tue-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:00-late, Sun 12:30-15:00, closed Mon, near Rúa do Franco on side street Rúa da Raiña—look for black cat sign outside).
(See “Santiago Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
A Curtidoría Restaurante (“The Tannery”) is a modern, spacious, and romantic place in the old town, rare for its open feeling. While the food is nothing exceptional, the setting is enjoyable and it’s a solid value for a midday meal (€13 lunch special menu, paella and fish, €20-33 per plate, Rúa da Conga 2, tel. 981-554-342).
O Beiro Vinoteca, designed to show off the fine wines of Galicia and Spain, serves by the glass from a huge menu and complements its wine with simple, appropriate raciones. Run by Pepe Beiro, it’s much classier than your average tapas bar. The tasting action is on the ground floor with cozy seating in the back, while tables for dining are upstairs. If you drop in for just a glass of wine, you’ll get a free tapa (sometimes closed Mon, half a block from cathedral at Rúa da Raiña 3, tel. 981-581-370).
Hostal dos Reis Católicos, the fancy old hospital sharing the square with the cathedral, has two fine restaurants downstairs. The main restaurant, Dos Reis, fills a former stable with a dramatic stone vault. It offers international dishes—often with live piano and nearly dead guests. A typical parador restaurant, it comes with stiff tuxedoed service, white tablecloths, and not a hint of fun (daily, tel. 981-582-200). Surprisingly, a few steps away is a wonderful alternative—Enxebre has a livelier easygoing-tavern vibe, good traditional Galician food, and reasonable prices (€5-14 dishes, daily, tel. 981-050-527).
Restaurante Casa Manolo serves only one thing: a €9 fixed-price meal consisting of two generous courses, water, bread, and a packaged dessert. It’s popular with students on a tight budget who want a classy meal out. This smart little family-run eatery combines sleek contemporary design, decent Galician and Spanish food, and excellent prices. The service is rushed (a good thing if you’re in a hurry), but the value is unbeatable (arrive when they open or plan on waiting; Mon-Sat lunch 13:00-16:00, dinner 20:00-23:30, Sun lunch only, at the bottom of Praza de Cervantes, tel. 981-582-950).
(See “Santiago Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
O Dezaseis (“The Sixteen”) is every local’s favorite (and mine, too). As soon as you walk down into its sprawling, high-energy vaulted dining room, you know this is the best place in town. In-the-know locals are dining under stone walls, heavy beams, and modern art while enjoying friendly service. You can choose from meat and fish plates (€12-14), but simply ordering one ración per person (€4-11) and splitting their hearty mixed salad for some veggies make a fine and inexpensive meal. They do octopus just right here and have nice wines at good prices (Mon-Sat 14:00-16:00 & 20:30-midnight, closed Sun, reservations smart, Rúa de San Pedro 16, tel. 981-564-880).
Cotolay Bar Restaurante and two adjacent bar-restaurants are a hit with locals for drinks with free tapas. They are good budget bets for a meal of raciones without the tourists (€5-15 raciones, Mon-Sat 11:00-late, closed Sun, Rúa de San Clemente, tel. 981-573-014).
La Bodeguilla de San Roque offers a good selection of raciones and wines in a relaxed family atmosphere. If the upstairs restaurant is full, have a drink at the bar to pass the time (€5-8 raciones, Rúa da San Roque 13, tel. 981-564-379).
Café Costa Vella, in the breakfast room and garden of the highly recommended Hotel Residencia Costa Vella, is a little Eden tucked just beyond the tourist zone. The café welcomes non-guests for coffee and a relaxing break in a poetic time-warp garden with leafy views (great €3.50 toasted sandwiches, plus a wide array of drinks, daily 8:00-23:00, Rúa da Porta da Pena 17, tel. 981-569-530).
Café Casino, a former private club, is a tired taste of turn-of-the-20th-century elegance with occasional live piano music. Local tour guides recommend this café to their timid British groups, who wouldn’t touch an octopus with a 10-foot pole. While they have sandwiches and salads, I would just consider this an elegant coffee or tea stop (Rúa do Vilar 35, tel. 981-577-503).
From Santiago de Compostela by Train to: Madrid (4/day, 5.5-9.5 hours, overnight train departs at 22:33, arrives at Madrid Chamartín at 8:00), Salamanca (1/day, 6.75 hours, transfer in Medina del Campo), León (2/day, 4.5-5 hours), Bilbao (2/day, no direct service, 12 hours), San Sebastián (1/day, 10.5 hours), Santander (2/day, 9 hours, transfer in Palencia), Lugo (10/day, 3-4 hours, requires transfer in A Coruña—bus is better), Porto, Portugal (2/day via Vigo, 3 hours). Train info: toll tel. 902-320-320, www.renfe.com.
By Bus to: Lugo (7/day, 2-3 hours), Madrid (5/day, 8 hours, includes night bus 21:30-6:30; arrives at Estación Sur, then 1 hour later at Madrid’s Barajas Airport Terminal 4), Salamanca (3/day, 6-7.5 hours), Astorga (5/day, 4-5.5 hours), León (1/day, 6 hours), Burgos (1/day, 9 hours, also 1 night bus, 7 hours), Bilbao (3/day continue to San Sebastián, includes 1 night bus, 9.5 hours to Bilbao, 1.5 hours more to San Sebastián), Porto, Portugal (1/day, 4 hours, stops at Porto’s airport before arriving to city center). Bus info: tel. 981-542-416. All long-distance destinations are served by the Alsa bus company (toll tel. 902-422-242, www.alsa.es).
